Autumn in Casentino, Tuscany To admire the more photogenic colors, savor the most authentic flavors and discover the lesser-known villages and monuments, come with us to the Casentino, the higher ground and upper valley of the Arno river. Autumn is a second spring, when every leaf is a flower (Albert Camus) CONSUMA PASS CASTEL SAN NICCOLO’ The Casentino covers a valley running roughly Castel San Niccolò is a superb example of between Florence and Siena and belongs to medieval architecture. It is scattered in numerous the province of Arezzo. For convenience, our ancient hamlets. Of particular interest is the 1 journey starts in Florence, but you can decide to 4 parish of San Martino in Vado, an start in Arezzo or in other places in Tuscany and 11th-century Romanesque church that is re-arrange the itinerary as you prefer. perfectly preserved and whose creation is owed Arriving from Florence you'll cross the Consuma to the famous Countess Matilde di Canossa. In Pass (1050 m elevation): a perfect spot for a Castel San Niccolò stop at one of the traditional autumn snack: schiacciata flat bread Prosciutto del Casentino producers and stuffed with mushrooms. taste one of the famous local cold cuts made with pigs raised outdoor. STIA In Stia, often called the "source of the Arno", POPPI although the real source is in “Capo d’Arno” Because it is strategically placed with trade routes admire Porciano Castle, the Church of St. Mary passing through it, Casentino has been a much 2 delle Grazie and the Florentine Palagio. disputed area in the past; today’s legacy includes North of Stia (at 1380 m on Monte Falterona) 5 some really outstanding castles and fortifications. there’s the Lago degli Idoli (“Lake of the The largest and most perfect is the Idols”), the most important archaeological site in 12th-century Poppi Castle or Conti Guidi the Casentino area, where many Etruscan ruins Castle. Placed on the hilltop of Poppi, it dominates have been found (Monte Falterona, in fact, the surrounding countryside with its façade with was a sacred mountain to the Etruscans). Visit the double-arched windows and a tall tower rising museum of the art of wool-making to touch, from the centre. It’s considered a prototype of the smell, listen, learn and try some of the hands-on Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Read more actions involved in the art of wool-making. In the first week of November don’t miss the famous chestnut, wine and new olive oil festival: craft markets, street performances in the magical setting of Piazza Tanucci. CAMALDOLI The sacred forests of the Casentino are a place of spiritual refuge, as shown by Camaldoli Monastery, founded over 1,000 years ago by St. SAN PIETRO A ROMENA 6 Romuald, a Benedictine monk and hermit. There is A few kilometres from Pratovecchio, the also an ancient chestnut tree with a split in the Romanesque parish church of San Pietro a middle, where the original monks used to pray Romena is a gem well worth seeing, with its and meditate. You can stay at the hermitage for 3 amazing architecture and careful stonework. short retreats and reflection. The medieval Inside, the asymmetrical windows create a special pharmacy of Camaldoli sells original recipes for effect due to the light that shines through them. natural remedies as well as honey, jam and other On the outside, the east-facing apse is of great products made by the monks. interest, therefore “kissed” by the morning light. AUTUMN, CASENTINO IN TUSCANY (1/2) BADIA PRATAGLIA A picturesque town, surrounded by fir and Raggiolo, like many mountain towns in the chestnut trees, in the heart of the Foreste Casentino area, had an economy heavily centred Casentinesi, Monte Falterona and on the chestnut tree. Local chestnuts are still 7 Campiglia National Park (one of the Park used to make flour for delicious polenta and many Visitor Centers is in this town). Some of the other specialties that you can taste on the last oldest forests in Europe are here and the autumn weekend of October during the chestnut feast or colors transform the landscape into a paradise for Festa della castagnatura. photographers (and beyond!). The area can be visited on foot, by bike or on horseback, along a network of over 650 kilometres worth of trails. Read more LA VERNA Another detour leads to La Verna, one of the most important and well-known Franciscan BIBBIENA sanctuaries in the world and a place of Bibbiena is the largest town in the Casentino Valley, 10 extraordinary magic and charm. It is surrounded located on top of a hill at 425 metres and topped by breathtaking scenery, with the building almost by the Torre Tarlati. A noteworthy monument in rising from the rocks underneath. The sanctuary Bibbiena is the 16th-century Palazzo Dovizi, as includes the small church of Santa Maria degli 8 well as the 15th-century Church of San Lorenzo, Angeli, the corridor and the Chapel of the Sacre which contains two terracotta works by Andrea Stimmate (with an Annunciazione by Andrea della della Robbia. You can also visit the Oratory of San Robbia) and the Basilica, dedicated to Santa Maria Francesco and the Church of Santi Ippolito and Assunta. The “Monumental Forest della Verna” has Donato, built in the early 12th-century. fir and beech trees of over 50 meters in height. Along the road you find Chitigliano with its unexpected Museum of Gunpowder and Smuggling and an itinerary known as the “Polveriera RAGGIOLO dell’Inferno”, which leads to one of the largest From the main road take the turn for Raggiolo, a gunpowder hideouts in the atmospheric little town that was named one of the most woodland. 9 beautiful towns in Italy (Borghi più Belli d’Italia). 2 STIA 6 7 CAMALDOLI BADIA PRATAGLIA 1 CONSUMA PASS 3 SAN PIETRO A ROMENA 5 4 POPPI CASTEL SAN 10 NICCOLÒ LA VERNA 8 BIBBIENA 9 RAGGIOLO AUTUMN, CASENTINO IN TUSCANY (2/2).