Inspirational wine knowledge and the people behind the drink
September INTERNA TIONAL 2010
Red wine from the Canaries Changes in Argentina & Chile Genuine fakes PAGE 8 PAGE 14 PAGE 5
INNEHÅLL > PAGE 5 Genuine fakes PAGE 8 Red Wine from the Canaries?!, Who’d have believed it… PAGE 14 Winds of Change In Chile and Argentina PAGE 24 Bubbles Rise To The Top A visit from Friexenet PAGE 27 Fine Wine Tasting 2010 PAGE 35 Autumn Stews and Wild, Wild Wines PAGE 36 Ständigt aktuella Chateau la Nerthe PAGE 39 Kajsa Bergqvist - Raising The Bar on Fine Wines PAGE 40 Wine tours with BK Wine PAGE 41 The Rocky Road to Success PAGE 44 One For The Pot PAGE 46 Summary of an Administration news
Wine Consumption on the increase in USA in spite of a critical year Att USA är en av de mest vitala vinmarknader vet vi sedan länge. Allt fler produ- center runt om i världen riktar sina marknadsföringskrafter mot landet och det ger uppenbarligen resultat. Nu kommer nämligen rapporter om att vinkonsumtionen under krisåret 2009 ökade, om än marginellt. Det var konsumtionen av det inhem- ska vinet, det görs idag vin i 49 av landets 50 stater, som stod för den totala öknin- gen, med 1,8 procent. Detta innebar att vinförsäljningen landade på 3,5 miljarder flaskor vin under förra året. Samtidigt rapporterar Beverage Information Group att importen av vin minskade med 2,2 procent. Samtidigt tror analytiker att den ameri- kanska marknaden kommer att växa ännu mer och tror på en försäljning om över 3,7 miljarder flaskor vin år 2014. The Importance of Storing Poland Switches from Vodka to Wine Earlier this year Langlois-Chateau One of the more unknown, but most interesting markets for wine in Eastern Europe Crément de Loire´s Chief win- is Poland. The country itself has no wine industry, which of course makes the Polish emaker and who is now their CEO market very interesting indeed for wine producing EU countries. This has been obvi- Francois.de-Regis de Fougeroux visited Stockholm and Sweden for ous particularly since the Polish people’s drinking habits has recently been pub- the first time. During his visit he lished. Vodka, Poland’s national drink, is namely losing volume and reputation, while put on a tasting perspective on the at the same time more Poles prefer wine in their glasses. Branch analysts believe importance of storing wine. that the reason is the expansion of the middle classes who command a higher dis- There were 4 Crements tasted. If posable income than ever before. In short their drinking habits have become more your curious there will be Langlois- refined. Of the country’s 40 million population, 21% of them prefer wine in their Chateau Crement available in your glasses against 17% who would rather take a glass of vodka. This according to CBOS local SystemBolaget (State off- who carried out the survey. license retail outlet) this Autumn JFC from the 1st October.
WELCOME TO A NEW EDITION OF FINE WINE Your on-line magazine in a glass of its own Now Autumn is on its way One of the hottest subjects that is being discussed in our branch right now, is without doubt the Great Wine Swindle, which has been going on around the world for some time, in connection with big wine auctions. How will it effect the prices of Fine Wines in the future? The answers are very differing, depending upon who you ask. Stuart George gives his picture of developments in an exciting article in this edition. The annual Fine Wine Tasting at the Royal Castle in Gärdet, Stockholm, is being arranged for the 5th time. Who was there and which wines were on the tables for tasting are also to found in this edition. Other exciting places for wine production today are the Canary Islands. Who Would’ve Believed It. Read Johan Franco Cerecedas interesting article about the different producers. Stimulating wines in France, new trips and the winds of change in Chilé and Argentina, and of course a whole lot more. If you have a burning interest in Fine Wines like we do, then with a yearly contribution of 20 Euros receive 4 numbers of Fine Wine you can help to spread more information about Fines Wines both in Sweden and Globally.
Welcome to a brand new and exciting number of Fine Wine International Ove Canemyr Chief Editor Fine Wine Magazine It is permitted to forward Fine Wine Magazine to friends and acquaintances interested in Fine Wines and are over the age of 18 years. Please let us know about anything interesting that you get to know about, people, events etc. We cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material, manuscripts, photos etc. You’re welcome to please quote from Fine Wine Magazine,but always reveal your sources.
Editoral Office: Ove Canamyr: Chief Editor , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB, International Edition Translations: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] Front Cover photography: Anne-Marie Canemyr.
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Swedish Travel Agency Organizes the Best Wine Trips in the World BKWine has just been voted one the world’s best Wine Holiday agencies by Trave- landLeisure.com in their latest web you really want to listings of World’s Top Wine Tours.
T&L chose BkWine as the company to travel with if you really want to meet wine makers, and enjoy a personal experience. You can read the whole report at:
Passion, pleasure and time to share Spanish Cult Grapes What a great answer, but what was the ques- Discovered in Sardinia tion? The Italian Island of Sardinia has during the last Can you try to describe your own wine phi- few years enjoyed a remarkable tourist boom. losophy in three words? Bertrand Praz from Les Behind this lies the wonderful milieu, adequately Grand Chais de France was in Stockholm and exotic but also a higher standard of gastronomy Fine Wine went along for a little chat. “Wine is a and not least-wine. link between people, said Bertrand”. Perhaps a Cannonau, is the name of the big grape on the rather unexpected answer. island, in other words Grenache in French or Ga- Most of the well known wine producers prefer rancha in Spanish. Not so strange really when to talk about “terroir”, what kind of grapes they you think that the island was ruled by the Span- use and why, storage and son on. Bertrand continues, “Every day is an- ish crown for many years. But there are two other other day and every year is another year too”. exciting grapes, who’s origins are a bit hazy. New question: Will the Central European wine production be effected in Bovale Sardo and Bovale di Spagna. Now there the future by climate change? “We have witnessed changes year on year is new information from a very reputable source, for the last 30 years. That’s why we have set the date 2050 as the date to namely the International Society of Horticultural try and understand and influence wine production going forward and Sciences. Their research shows that the Bovale di to find a solution year by year. It might be new kinds of grape or finding Spagna is the Spanish grape Carinéna or the Ma- alternative grounds that fulfill the new expectations we have. What are zuelo as it’s known in Rioja. It’s a grape that’s culti- the prevailing winds like? vated in many parts in the world. However the big Completely organic for sure. Even low alcoholic wines. The demand is discovery is, the other grape, the Bovale Sardo is growing daily all over Europe. In respect of the new figures released by the legendary Graciano, which is seen to be one the System Bolaget which show an increase of 18% alcohol free wines of the world’s most exhilarating grapes. It is culti- and the demand for ecological wines trend today in Europe. It should be vated in modest amounts in Rioja, but in principle mentioned that the new low alcohol content wines are very drinkable nowhere else in the world. Except for Sardinia! even to food. In the past it wasn’t always like that. . JFC Support our Operation to inform about Fine Wines Take a chance and give yourself and your friends a long lasting present. Send us your e-mail address and contact information to [email protected] And we’ll send you a bill Sek: 250 per annum. 4 numbers of Fine Wine. Welcome.
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Screw Tops for Top Quality The Best Merlot In The Richard Rowe, Winemaker at KWV, visited Stockholm World and held a prestige tasting at Grand Hotel. On the ta- Sander Vreind bles stood the Mentors KWV´s top of the line wines. from the Cha- Wines that are made from grapes that are very carefully teau St:: Michelle chosen and which are produced in small series. “We buy in Washington grapes from hundreds of producers and blend some of States, Colum- them together. There are some grapes that I think are a little too special to be blended so we decided to create bia Valley in the the Mentors series out of them. “The screw cork is for USA was in Stock- me the utmost sign of quality. You never need to worry holm for a visit that a prestige wine is damaged when it’s opened. to present his wines at the Brasserie Cork suppliers today deliver corks in much too wide range of quality. Bobonne. “Our ambition is to create We don’t dare take he chance. Just think of opening a bottle you’ve waited 10-15 the best Merlot wines in the World, years for and find the wine is undrinkable!” I guarantee that this will never happen whatever the cost!” says Sander. “Our with the Mentors series. He continues, “We also have a responsible standpoint on North Star Merlot 2006 is amongst the too much alcohol in the wine. best we’ve ever done. (Imported by Vi- It can destroy both the finesse and the quality!” nUnic approx: 349:- kr per bottle) On being asked what he thought about the alcohol content in South African wine Of course they’ve made a number of in general he replied. wines with other kinds of grape. E.g. A “ For myself the wine could just as well have been without alcohol. It’s not the alco- hol that’s the interesting thing, but rather the wine as a drink. Riesling co-production with Dr Loos- But how did the “Burnt Rubber” epithet to South African wines come about? en Eroica Riesling 2008. An American Riesling with a definite European “It’s because of the high PH levels in the water in South Africa that used to effect the character. wines previously. Now we have discovered a method to dampen down that effect. Price approx 200:-kr The Mentor Series is an excellent example of it. For more info go to www.vinunic.se.
Umani Ronchi at The Winemaker’s Dinner Support our Restaurant LUX in Stockholm Michelle Bernetti, from Unami Ronchi opens with Operation to “We want to make wines that we can grow old to- gether with, if you know what I mean?”. Wines with inform about elegance”. He continued, “In a world of standard solutions, it is particularly interesting to make dif- Fine Wines ferent variations of wines from the same grapes. The combination of Restaurant Lux´s menu and Umani Ronchi can excite the most laid back aficio- Take a chance and give yourself nado. How about Casal di Serra and Casal di Serra and your friends a long lasting Vecchie together with gently salted North Atlantic Pollock, raw shrimp, water cress dressing, lemon present. Send us your e-mail juice and artichokes? Or Le Busche Montepulciano address and contact Bianchi with Saltwater crayfish with dill ju, herb garden green peas, candid information to white asparagus, malted mousse with dill cream. Mmmmmm. There was also Domta Pig roasted in oil, cutlets of pork with [email protected] Italian summer truffels, white asparagus cream, Celeriac, And we’ll send you a bill hearts of chives with a glass of Cúmero. It was all rounded Sek: 250 per annum. off with a vertical tasting of Pelago 1995, 2000, 2004 and 2005 with young roasted calf from Snällebo and braised joint, creamed onions from Gotland, asparagus, dumplings 4 numbers of Fine Wine. and raw milk. Modern European food created by Henrik Norström at LUX combined with wines from Unami Ronchi- Welcome. who could ask for more.
4 genuineStuart George, London-based agent fo r Spfakesectrum Wine Auctions, recounts the story of a bottle of 1787 Lafite.
In June 2010, while in Hong Kong on business, I was invited with my colleagues to visit a private cellar in the mountainous and densely populated New Territories region. The cellar was astonishing, filled with every great vintage of every desirable wine. The owner claimed to have the world’s largest collection of Pétrus, for example. An entire wall of wine racks was filled with Pétrus vintages back to the early 20th century.
In the entrance to the apartment block, pride of place was given to a glass case containing the oldest, and probably most notorious, bot- tle in this fabulous collection – a 1787 Lafite, engraved with the ini- tials “Th.J”. How this bottle ended up in the lobby of a Hong Kong apartment block is a tale of money, hubris and damaged reputations.
Jefferson in Paris Thomas Jefferson (1743-1826), third President of the United States (1801-1809) and the principal au- thor of the 1776 Declaration of Independence, lived in Paris from 1784 to 1789 as Minister to France. Jefferson was an enthusiastic drink- er and bought large quantities of wines from France’s classic regions, particularly Bordeaux. In 1985, a German wine col- lector called Hardy Rodenstock – a.k.a Meinhard Görke, a manager and publisher of Schlager music – claimed to have discovered a cellar in Paris that contained several old bottles, including 1784 and 1787 Lafite, some of which were en- graved with the initials “Th.J”. Having been authenticated by Michael Broadbent MW, about the most experienced and honest man >>> 5 in the wine trade (and a hugely a colon, whereas the bottles were action against Rodenstock and filed enjoyable companion at lunch or engraved as “Th.J”. Nonetheless, a civil lawsuit against him in a New dinner to boot), the engraved 1787 the sale went ahead. York federal court on 31 August Lafite was sold at a London auction Other details subsequently emerged. 2006, claiming that he had been on 5 December 1985 for £105,000, Rodenstock was apparently known defrauded. “Rodenstock is just the a record price for a single bottle of among Bordeaux antiques deal- tip of the iceberg”, declared Koch. wine that still stands. Other bottles ers for buying old, empty bottles. “I plan to put people in jail. I plan of Jefferson Lafite were subsequent- It would have taken an eighteenth to get my money back and I plan to ly sold, including the one that now century engraver about three hours force the auction houses and retail- resides in Hong Kong. to write “Lafite 1787 Th.J” on a ers to make serious changes.” Rodenstock’s reputation as the glass bottle – and Jefferson owned Koch re-filed against Rodenstock source of extraordinary wines be- hundreds of bottles. on 11 February 2008 and subse- came unassailable. His tastings quently also sued three New York were extraordinary, such as the Koch Cola wine auction houses and the Indo- weeklong, 125-vintage vertical of In 1988, the billionaire Ameri- nesian-born collector Rudy Kur- Château d’Yquem at Munich’s Ho- can businessman William Koch niawan. The case against one of the tel Königshof in September 1998. purchased four bottles of these auction houses was thrown out in Jefferson wines for US$500,000. June 2010 but Koch persists. Cinder’s embers Koch mounted an exhibition of Despite repeated requests from his art and antiques collection at Weird science Broadbent, Rodenstock never pro- Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts in The surge in demand for fine wine, vided anything but vague stories 2005. The museum wanted more particularly in Asia, has motivated about cellars in Paris and Venezue- proof of the bottles’ authenticity so fraudsters. To all those fake shoes, la. He would not even disclose how Koch contacted the Jefferson Me- clothes and bags can now be added many bottles he had found. morial Foundation at Monticello, wine. Broadbent contacted Cinder Good- which was unable to authenticate Like expensive watches, fine win, who had spent 15 years editing the wines. Further investigation wines are relatively inexpensive to Jefferson’s Memorandum Books. revealed that the original source of make. Their value comes largely She could not find any record of the now apparently fake wines was from their status as a Veblen good, wines of the 1787 vintage in Jeffer- Rodenstock. coveted for their high price. The son’s meticulous records. Goodwin Fond of litigation – he spent 20 gulf between production costs and also noted that Jefferson initialled years in a legal tussle with two of his retail costs and between supply and his correspondence as “Th:J”, with brothers – Koch chose to take legal demand can be exploited. >>> 6 It is relatively easy to fake wine. levels. These tests showed that the ary 2008. All one needs are a bottle, a label wine is definitely older than the Broadbent successfully sued Ran- and some wine, all of which can atomic bomb explosions of the dom House, the UK publisher be readily and inexpensively ob- 1940s. But that certainly does not of The Billionaire’s Vinegar, in tained. Fakes vary in their inge- prove that it was made in 1787. October 2009. As Broadbent’s nuity. Some are very crude – with solicitor put it, “The book made photocopied labels, for example – French Fryes allegations which suggested that but others are much more sophisti- The American collector Russel Mr Broadbent had behaved in an cated. Frye has established Wine Au- unprofessional manner in the way The traditional, and still most thentication Services (“The war in which he had auctioned some reliable, way of judging if a wine on counterfeiting starts here”). of these bottles and that his rela- is fake or not is to taste it. But Frye lists ten wines as those “heard tionship and dealings with Hardy very few people have the experi- or read about most often or found Rodenstock, who discovered the ence and ability to declare that a to be most publicized”: Cheval original collection, was suspected bottle of, say, Pétrus 1921 is the Blanc 1921 and 1947; Lafite 1787 of being improper.” The book is real thing. Even then, bottles vary Thomas Jefferson (single bottle no longer available in the UK. tremendously according to stor- format) and Lafite 1870; Lafleur It is 25 years since Rodenstock be- age conditions. And by opening a 1947 and 1950; Latour à Pomerol strode the fine wine world like a bottle the evidence is destroyed. 1961; Margaux 1900; and Pétrus colossus but the litigation goes on. There is no way to date old wine 1921 and 1947. Probably we will never know the scientifically. An old bottle cannot In 2006, Frye sued a California truth about that bottle of Lafite be x-rayed like an old painting. wine merchant for selling him 1787. Some of Rodenstock’s bottles have counterfeit wines that were alleg- been subjected to radioisotope edly from Rodenstock. The case analysis, which measures radiation was settled out of court in Febru-
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Alkohol i samband med arbete ökar risken för olyckor. 8 red wine from the canaries?!,
who’d Tehavext & photo Johan Fr ancoeved Cereceda it…
Malvasía is the name of the grape that put the Canary Islands on the wine map 500 years ago. White wines from this group of islands in the middle of the Atlantic has been estab- lished since the discovery voyagers used to dock and stock up with wine and edibles to- wards the end of the fifteenth century. Now we have red wine.
>>> 9 A trip to the Canary Islands is an that you can’t escape it. Clearly the tourist invasion began in the early exceedingly peculiar experience. entire group of islands has a popu- 60´s to the surprise of the newly Many have tried it and have prob- lation of about two million peo- awakened islanders, the wine that ably got caught up in some hotel ple. In 2009 they received about they offered these contemporary complex far from the everyday ten million visitors. There are few happy punters was so wretched Canarian way of life. At the same Canary islanders that not involved that they were forced to ship wine time an exciting Island realm re- in tourism somehow. over from the mainland. veals itself to the intrepid, a world Curtains! 500n years later it’s that offers many revelations, not That’s why it’s vitally important to time to start a new ball rolling. least in wines. But this is not about offer the things that the visitors ex- On the other hand the food anno white wines any more, it’s the reds pect to have, sun, sea and sand is 2010, is mostly locally orientated that are creating the great interest. in plentiful supply, as well as a cli- with fish, fresh vegetables, tropical “Who would have believed it, says the mate to turn one green with envy. fruits and the famous potatoes in irresistible Loles Pérez Martin from And then?……Of course there are all shapes and sizes, are surprising- the Bodegas Buten, one of the most pretty places to see, an abundance ly tasty, well prepared and elegant. emblematic bodegas in the islands. of volcanoes, amusing excursions But the most surprising thing of But let’s start from the beginning. like grottos and whale spotting. all is that only 50 years after the What are things like on the food initial embarrassment, the wine The Canary Islands are one of the and drink front. and not only the white Malvasia Swedish people’s most well known What’s on offer for the gastro- but rather, and perhaps even more travel destinations. nomically inclined tourist? Well, so is- the red wines. Particularly for a frozen north- at the present time it has never Perhaps it isn’t so remarkable. The erner, who’s already day dream- been better, and that’s putting it Canary Islands lie Just south of ing himself away to sun, sand and mildly. The Islands eventually lost the 30th parallel, in the Atlantic saltwater already in October. Here their status as a haven for docking to the North west of the African the tourist industry is so well oiled, and provisioning and when the coast. In other words not exactly >>> 10 the best climate for wine produc- there surely is a place for Canary tion. But they’re very tenacious Islands on the wine map. here and refuse to give up. There’s a certain “damn your The next nearest emblematicB o- eyes” spirit that becomes apparent dega, well known for its sweet white pretty quickly. Thankfully though wine made from …yes, Malvasia in it doesn’t hamper any of the old El Grifo in Lanzerotte. They also traditions that nevertheless are produce a sweet wine from Mosca- still to found in the vineyards. tel and a dry one from Malvasia. Indeed there is a certain fluctua- The Bodega is amongst the oldest tion in the expectations of quality. and contains a wine museum with However the wine often surprises pre phylloxera vines on the crook you with a fine balance and a can- latter is the one that sticks out the of the building. That is to say vines did honesty. most, not least for its quality, it’s that have not been contaminated by uncomplicated fruitiness, good the Phylloxera (wine louse) as the “We have the conditions that we acidity and aromatic features. whole of the European vineyards have”, says Loles Pérez Martin, “Of course with its roundness and were a 100 years ago. The vines are who despite her modest age, has fruit, it’s quite special”, says Nayra knotty and can in some cases yield managed to work for several years Trujillo Martin, the young oenol- up to a 100 kilos of grapes, which with Peter Sisseck on his Dominio ogist responsible for the wines at is unlikely in other areas. Pingus project at Ribera del Duero. Bodegas Penitente. It’s hard not to Bearing in mind the cultivation In recent times there’s been a lot agree, At the same time she’s hold- conditions a large yield is an abso- of talk about the green Malvasìa ing up a red wine, the local grape lute must, not least for the price. grape. Even at Vinoble the great is called Lístan Negro this wine is “It’s much more expensive to pro- wine expo, with it’s focus upon a big surprise, particularly as its duce wine here in the islands than fortified and dessert wines. far from famous, perhaps even in- it is for example in La Mancha”. A few years ago in Jerez, Wines famous, as a wine it has a superb You only need to cast an eye over the from the Canary Islands were no- balance, fruitiness, fine tannin vineyard to understand why“, says ticed. But they were mostly sweet structure and a smooth length. Arancha Carmona from El Grifo. wines. “I believe that Malvasía is Who would believe it, from a red The vines are buried in volcanic moving towards a big future, not wine in this price range? “We look sand, so far down so as to reach only for sweet, but rather more for small climes where we believe the real soil. The volcanic layer lies importantly the dry white wines”, the grapes can attain the maturity about a meter deep over the whole says Bartolomé Sánchez, one of they need. Producing red wine is of the Island and the vines can not Spain´s most prestigious wine cor- a challenge in itself, she continues. grow in it. That’s why the vines are respondents at a celebratory wine Particularly as the traditional wine protected from the winds by the tasting he held. here is white”. stone walls a that are such unique Of course she’s quite right, if the and attractive feature in the strange After a trip around the islands you goal is to constantly raise the qual- wine landscape of Lanzarote. Back have to agree with him. There are ity. But even the white wines, to at the Bodegas Buten on Tenerife definitely a lot of exciting whites put it mildly, are surprising in gives us a little lesson in the art of on offer. One of my stopovers was themselves, to be able to attain never giving up. “We started cul- at the Bodegas Penitente in Ten- that degree of acidity in these tivation right by the sea. neriff, shed some light on the craze tropical latitudes. Like so many It’s a solitary little vineyard which for the Malvasia. Here they make times before though, it’s all about has fantastic results. The problem wine under several labels. White rolling up the sleeves and doing is the climate is so changeable wine from the Listán Blanco, Mo- something that hasn’t been done from year to year. What Loles scatel as well as the Malvasia, the before and show the world that Pérez-Martin is saying Turns the >>> 11 whole thing about wine and the on their heads, it proves that with the busses stand in a line and the Canary Islands on its head. The a high degree of professionalism tourists gape wide eyed, seduced wine is produced a stone’s throw it’s possible….. to pull some sur- by Moon like landscape. A few away from the sea, a cardinal sin prises out of the bag. The fact that hours later a visit to a Bodega in in this hot climate. Coupled to the wine exports are almost non-ex- the middle of the island. Once fact that the climate changes must istent, 1%, is really because of the again the busses stand in a line and come as something of a surprise production cost of Canary Island the tourists look on just as wide making the promises in the tour- wines. But because it I tourists eyed, this time seduced by the ist brochures “the same delightful rather than exports that attracts wine. Who would have thought it weather all year round, year after people to the islands the produc- just a few years ago. year”, seem like complete misrep- ers on the seven islands are not resentation. Now it has to be said unduly perturbed. But of course Some short facts about the in all honesty that the conditions it doesn’t hurt to be mentioned in Canary Islands makes it difficult to produce wine the same breath as Rioja, Ribera • Isla Canarias is made up of seven of the utmost quality, but if one del Duero, Navarra, the wine in- large islands, and a string of smaller ones which lie scattered in the Atlan- consciously takes these conditions dustry deserves more recognition tic 1000 kilometers from the Spanish as a point of departure, seek new than it’s had during last decade. mainland’s southernmost point and areas to cultivate, yield, right time At the same time something far- 150 kilometers off of the coast of to harvest, the results can be quite northwest Africa. They lie on the 28th unpredictable. A pit stop in the parallel on approximately the same latitude as Florida. gas station like Bodega and a tast- • The region has nine primarily orient- ing says it all. The Bodega’s plain ed areas: (hmm) red wine, Crater, repre- • Valle de la Orotava, Ycoden-Daute- sents the equivalent of 20 Euro reaching is about to happen here. Isora, Tacaronte-Acentejo, Valle de a bottle, has a fine balance, good During recent years the Canaries Gúimar and Abona, All of them on Tenerife. Then La Palma, Lanzarote, fruitiness, good acidity, slightly are re-launching themselves as se- El Hierro and Gran Canaria have their harsh with a pleasant finish. Ex- lect destinations where the focus own DO, which are named the same pensive of course, but considering is upon gastronomy, wine, health as their respective islands. the costly Conditions, the wine spa and golf. • The climate is reasonably constant all itself is something of a find. From the wine standpoint it’s all the year round with an average tem- perature of 25 degrees during the day The wine is produced from the about building the visitor fre- and 20 degrees in the nights. Rainfall indigenous grapes Listán Negro quency. Already at the present is about 400mm per annum. In other and Negramoll, both unique in time, busloads of surprised tour- words a scarcely ideal climate for their way and only grow on the is- ists are being shuttled off to some wine cultivation. But it is possible to lands. The house’s prestige wines, of the most prominent Bodegas. find exciting climates on the islands, not least if venture a bit up into the we are now talking about tripling Added to this Several Wine mu- mountains. the price, is a rare balanced act, seums been established, namely • The most common/important grapes complex with a high fruit content, Museo Agricol El Patio in Teguise that grow here are the green Malvasia good tones of coffee, little dark on Lanzarote, and Casa del Vino and Moscatel and the Blue Listán Ne- forest berries and a hint of va- La Baranda in Sauzal on Tenerife gro and the Negramoll, the latter two originated from the islands. nilla and a rather long finish. Her to try and quell the worst curios- • Apart from them there is a relatively they’ve blended Negramoll with ity or to even inspire more. There comprehensive grape called the Blue Syrah and allowed the wine to rest is loads to do, lots of discoveries Tintilla, which is said to be one of the on the wood in French casks for to be made not least for tourists grapes that the Jesuit Monks had with seven months. who can be enticed away from the them on their missionary travels in the 16th century. “We have received a lot of praise hotel’s heated swimming pools. • Today wine exports are around 1% for our wines”, says Loles Pérez- An afternoon in Lanzarote is • About a fifth of the wine from the Martin. They surely have, the red speaks volumes about how the in- Canaries is consumed on the Spanish is a great discovery on its own, it terest in wine is spreading. First a mainland. turns tradition and expectations quick look at the volcanoes, where 12 e yh t Dão, Portugal !
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13 winds of change in chile and
argentinaText & photo Britt Karlsson
Chile and Argentina are both wine countries undergoing change. After faithfully delivering, reliable but often undemanding wines for the last 20 years, there are many producers who feel that it’s time to show that they can do more. And there’s a lot of things happening. New regions are being cultivated. New experiments with new kinds of grapes. More importance is being attached to Terroir.
Now they are looking for the per- and both Chile and Argentina Mendoza, Chile and Argentina’s fect conditions for every variety of have unusually good conditions biggest wine district straddles grape. They are searching the coast for ecological cultivation. At the the mighty Andes mountains. or up in the altitudes to find the present time people don’t want The district lies namely on both right coolness for their vineyards. heavy, alcoholic wines, finesse and sides. Both sides gain advantage The environment is the focal point elegance are the watchwords now. from the melted ice that runs off >>> 14 Finca Flichman the mountaintops to irrigate their from Portugal. “I’ve been here proving out in the feels and down vineyards. The snow clad peaks since 2004 and it isn’t difficult to in the cellars.” We are more and form a spectacular backdrop. The enjoy yourself here,” more careful by nature and the en- climate is stable, it doesn’t rain in he says. Argentina feels a little bit vironment. the summer and sicknesses in the old worldy, there are many Italians We exert ourselves o find the vineyards are rare. It’s not strange and Spanish, which means endless right kind of soil and location for then that many foreigners put grill parties. our grapes. Our climate has the down their own personal roots here. Not least important he says advantages of chilly nights dur- Here below are a few examples. “there is an openness here that ing the summer, which allows the doesn’t exist in Europe. We dis- plants to rest. We have a lot of Here in Chile and Mendoza we cuss things here, We learn from clay in the soil which gives a lot run into different kinds of wine each other”. of energy to the vines. So all in all producers. They are all passionate “The quality of the Argentine we have very good conditions for even if their properties are very dif- wine is on the increase year by wine cultivation. The sun is actu- ferent from each other. However year”, he continues. “We are im- ally a little stronger here in Men- all three of them have ideas about doza< and the birds sing a little how their respective countries can louder…” be developed and what the de- mand is from the consumers to- Since Sogrape bought the Finca day. Namely quality both in non Flicman in 1997, they have invest- expensive and exclusive wines. ed a lot in the vineyard and cellars. Previously 80% of the production Finca Flicman was sold indigenously. Portuguese in Mendoza. Now more and more is be- There are plenty of European wine ing exported and the production producers who’ve been enticed has grown from 500 000 cases in both by the climate and the (rela- 2004 to 1.2 million cases in 2009. tively) cheap land in Mendoza. Flicman posses 900 hectares of One of them is the Portuguese land of which 350 hectares are Sogrape , who bought the Finca cultivated. Another 40 hectares Flicman in Maipu back in 1997. are planted every year. The facil- Luis Cabral de Almeida is the ity has an astounding capacity of chief winemaker and he also hails Luis Cabral de Almeida, vinmakare 22 million liters and produces at på Finca Flichman the moment 5 million. “We are >>>
15 >>> much bigger now, but the inter- to know exactly how much foliage big companies have a tendency to esting thing is that our wines are you want to have. Drop watering chose the safe method instead of much better”, says Luis. “On one is the most usual but for the older the unsafe. of my first years we won a trophy vines, we still use flood irrigation, decanter, but the wine was awful. even if it isn’t quite ideal”, says More and more growers are look- “Good quality starts in the vine- Luis. ing towards the mountains. To yards, says Luis, you have to get It’s not an eco friendly method, blend grapes from different al- to know the vines”. We are just as as it wastes so much water. The titudes has become very popu- dependent here upon the whims general irrigation methods and lar. Finca Flincman´s wines are of nature as in Europe. a blend of grapes that grow 700 We have a stable climate and for meters above sea level. (the al- nine out of ten vintages we get the titude of Mendoza itself) up to grapes that we want”. That doesn’t 1200 meters. “Here the nights are mean though that some years aren’t cooler, which is a great advantage, better than others. 2010 is his best because normally we only achieve year so far, thanks to the tempera- a good phenol ripeness only with ture being a little bit cooler spring a high sugar content, At higher and a not so hot summer. altitudes we can get to it faster, thereby harvesting the grapes be- “Our philosophy is that we re- fore the sugar content is too high. spect the grape and the fruit. I’ve (0% of Finca Flicman´s wines are noticed that one doesn’t have to red, these statistics are the same have a small vineyard to b e close for the whole of Mendoza. to nature.” says Luis. “Disease in “They make fresher white wine the vineyard are rare, and of natu- in Chile”, says Luis. rally becomes ecologically friendly. “But we plan to make a white
If we “dust” the crops 9-10 times a Gestos, ett av Finca Flichmans mest prestige wine. You also have to year in Europe, here we only need kända viner realize that white wine demands to do it 4 times at the most, and more work. that is a bad year. Grass and weeds the tasks in the vineyards varies, grow freely in the vineyard to pre- according to which price catego- Mendoza’s big grape of course is vent soil erosion. ry the wines belong to. “It’s very the Malbec. important though even the cheap “We are completely dependent “Water is the most important wines are good!”. We want to at- upon Malbec!” thing we have”, Luis says. “In Eu- tract the consumers to work their Luis exclaims. It’s an easy grape rope they control the vitality by way up the assortment. to work with, it is adaptable and choosing the right choice of soil gives good tannins. With cold for the grape. Here we steer it in- Just like their neighbors in the mace ring before the fermentation stead through irrigation. If you west Mendoza is more or less free we get nice soft tannins. People control the water then you control of the scourge of the wine louse. are still discovering the Mable, I the quality of the grape”. Though at the Finca Flincman think that is has all of the quali- On the hole the vine should not 90% of the vines are grafted onto ties to become a really fashionable continue growing after veraison American roots which are resist- grape. (when the grape changes colour), ant to the pest. Luis thinks that the most only the grape should continue to “Though you never know, there progress they’ve have had in recent grow. That’s the time to be spar- are many in Mendoza that don’t years has been in the vineyards. ing with the watering. You have bother with the grafting, though But it’s important to mention, he >>> 16 thinks that the wine growers of Finca Flinchman are the French Vina Von Siebenthal Chile Mendoza, today are well educat- inspired, Dedicado 2006 with its A Swiss Lawyer Aims High ed, not least because of the wine 84% Cabernet Sauvignon from “Chile is a beautiful country, that’s university there. the Uko valley blended with Mal- one of the reasons I moved, here, bec, Syrah and a little Merlot. the other another the quality of Arvid Nordquist is the Swedish The elegant Paisaje de Tupun- the fruit. Quite simply put, Chile importer. gato 2007, 72% Malbec from is a superb wine region. In stock at the SystemBolaget 1100 meters altitude and the rest Mauro von Siebenthal is a Swiss (Swedish State owned off-licenses) Cabernet Sauvignon with a tart corporate lawyer, who changed are: fruitiness and intensive slightly horses and become a wine pro- peppery aroma. ducer instead. Finca Flichman Shiraz Reserva “I’ve had a passion for wine since 2008,(6528 Sek: 70:-) I was 17 years old, when I began to A pleasant and unpretentious drink it and collect it” he tells us. wine, some berry like Syrah style, “I drunk the great wines from Ita- certain structure and with soft ly, France, Spain, California. Back tannins. Finca Flichman Gestos then it was possible to buy Grand 2009, Cabernet Sauvignon (6047- Cru Classé, they weren’t cheap but Sek: 85:-) Half of the grapes are it was possible.” He came to Chile cultivated at an altitude of 700 12 years ago and found what he meters and the other half at 1100 was looking for in the Aconcagua meters , which actually stated on valley- hour’s drive from Santiago. the label. The valley is not part of the well- Very good fruitiness and acidity known wine regions of Chile, (which is natural) fine, clearly de- though it is the home of a great fined tannins. producer, namely Errazuriz, who Some of my favorites from the Mauro von Siebenthal is incidentally Mauro’s neighbor
Viña von Siebenthal >>>
17 Mauro’s property consists of 25 The clouds are very low and the barriques. All of the casks were hectares in total, which places it in rain hangs heavy in the air. thrown to the ground, luckily though the Boutique Vineyard category We are right in the middle of the most of them remained intact. as the say here. Usually they don’t harvest which will continue until have such small wineries in Chile. the last week in May. They’re not Of course when one changes over “The folks around here thought I worried about a little rain.” The to a completely new job, you need was a bit crazy”, he says. But his rain that we get at this time of the some help. “For sure says Mauro, idea was to only make wine of the year is light, it doesn’t harm the I was lucky. It was namely Stefano absolutely highest quality, and grapes in any way!”, says Mauro. Gandolini (well known wine mak- nothing else. The harvest period is spread out er for amongst others Santa Rita over quite a long period. From the and Vina Carmen) who helped He compares his project with last week in March to the end of me in the beginning and who vineyards like Altair (owned by May. “We can choose the correct is still my consultant . Mauro had San Pedro) and Almviva (A joint time for each type of grape exactly. the soil completely analyzed be- project between the Baroness Phil- “The Carmenére are the slowest to fore he before he decided to buy lipine de Rothschild and Concha ripen, so they have to be picked right here. He was aware that he y Toro) In the beginning Mauro late in the season,” he adds. “Oth- could make high quality wine on traveled back and forth between erwise there’s a risk that we get a this land. Particularly from the Chile and Switzerland. But last “green” aroma in the wine. But soil that lies nearest to house a year he became tired of anything that’s not so much f a risk for us, plot of about one hectare. Though to do with planes and airports and in our clay rich soil the Carménere Stefano wasn’t entirely in agree- decided to live settle down and tends rather to be more elegant. ment with him. He though there live in Chile permanently. On the 27th February the Ac- was too much clay content in the The scenery surrounding his vine- oncagua valley was quite far away soil. He capitulated when the yard is quite rural. Blending in from the earthquakes epicenter, wine from the clay soil received 97 amongst peach trees, cows and but the valley wasn’t spared from points from Robert Parker. “This not least avocado pear trees. The damage. Great plastic sheets cover clay is fantastic for the Carmé- Aconcagua valley is a pure para- most of the roof of the wine facil- nere!”, says Mauro. “But we had dise for the avocado lovers. On the ity which is built in colonial style. to wait a long time for the grapes. slopes you can see the trees creep- The quack was quite merciless It was 2003 first, five years after ing upwards higher and higher. on the roof tiles. Mauro also lost we had planted them. I had al- That is to say, if we could see them. some wine, about 70 of his 400 most given up hope. I had a yield >>> 18 of 3000 kilos -per hectare, which he has. The tanks are quite cided to plant 5 hectares of petit small 10000 liters. The different verdot, which is a grape that he is Predominantly he has 2 kinds of kinds of grapes were sorted after convinced will help build up the soil I his vineyard.The cool clay the harvest on a sorting table. structure. It started as an experi- rich earth and a warmer sandy His property was actually the sec- ment, he wanted to see what the soil. The are loads of stones all ond one in Chile to invest in a result would be, he was so pleased over the place. It is very lean soil sorting table. (Almaviva was the that he started bottling it. He now and Mauro doesn’t want to give it first) Though he points out that blends petit verdot into a few of too much nutrients. He makes up he only does one sorting. his wines and actually produces a compost from goat manure He doesn’t have a second sorting of one from 100% Petit Verdot and perhaps hi might start with the individual grapes after the stalks called Torknar. The Petit Verdot is the same from alpaca sheep. (they are removed. He considers that to always the first one he harvests. are small and little bit similar to be unnecessary. “It can cause a prob- Llama’s) Even skins residue is lem with oxidization if sort through His Bulk wines (60000 bottles) mixed into the compost. grape by grape” he says. are called Parcella nr:7, a wine
To plant without splicing the roots of American vines was a clear de- cision for Mauro. “There are no wine lice in Chile, so there is no other reason for doing it. Apart from the quality is better”, he believes. He draws a compares it to smoking a cigarette with or without a filter. “The American root filters out part of the charac- ter of the wine,” he thinks. But he doesn’t know whether he is correct or if it ´s just a feeling. It’s not possible to make a com- parison. I try to persuade him to After the fermentation proc- with nice fruitiness, rich tasting by another few hectares of land to ess the wine is put into oakcasks and elegant, made from Caber- make experiments. Plant the same where it stays between 12 and 24 net Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, kind of grapes, a rows of them months. The malolactic fermenta- Merlot and Petit Verdot. His Car- grafted onto American roots and tion is done in the casks. ménere 2008 has a very generous few rows with original roots. He He has a few American oak casks fruitiness with a fresh fragrance doesn’t look completely uninter- for the syrah amongst others. The and taste of fresh herbs. The Cara- ested, but you never know. American oaks sweetness balances bantes 2007 with 85% Syrah and Fermentation and the long 7 the herbal flavor that the Syrah little Cabernet Sauvignon and week long skin contact is a long grape sometimes has”, he says. Petit Verdot for complexity, is process, it begins with a long cold produced in 20 000 bottles. maceration process to get soft Mauro makes five different kinds They have a flowery lavender aroma, tannins. After the fermentation of wines, all of them interesting and herbs like rosemary are present There’s another period of skin and full of character. When he in the fragrance and a slightly light contact. Wine needs time , he says, came to Chile he thought the in- taste. Toknar 2006 from 100% Petit you mustn’t worry it along. But is digenous wines were a little too Verdot is only a little production of does make demands and requires soft. He missed structure. He 5000 bottles a year. space and people to watch over it, started to think about it and de- The nose offers a black current >>> 19 fruitiness along cedar wood and the taste in an explosion of fla- vors. Lots of fruitiness and fine freshness and a very long taste, well balanced oak, good structure. A complex wine that in the begin- ning really surprised Mauro.
If you’d like a Tatay de Cristobel 2007, then you’ll have to lash out about 250 US dollars. 1500 bot- tles are produced every year. The grapes are 90% Carménere and 10% Petit Verdot. The wines are stored for 24 months on new French oak casks. There’s an un- Sarkozy thought of the tipple is colors so that it will blend into believable darkness in the coloring now a matter for history. the countryside. The name Vent- and it has an intensive, concen- isquero means Glaciér in Spanish trated aroma of fruit. Fresh taste of The Swedish Importer is Carovin. and symbolizes the company´s herbs and eucalyptus, very power- ecological thinking.Some of our ful but still with a certain elegance Vina Ventisquero, Chile Cuvée have been named after the and well balanced oak, which Hunting The Terroir most famous glaciers in Chile. Mauro says, is because the wine Ventisquero in a 12 year old wine We always want to relate back to is already so strong when it comes property in Chile that makes dif- natual power and forces. into the casks. Tata de Cristobel is ferent priced wines, including lit- an Iconic wine which comes from tle quantities, and prestige wines Ventisquero is situated in an area the one hectare clay plot near the of high quality. The firm is owned called Coastal Maipo. It is the house. “It’s the terroir that gives by a Chilenian Holding company south western most part of Maipo, the wine its style and helps us to in the produce industry run by 42 kilometers from the sea.“ The attain this elegance,” says Mauro. the Vial family. Ventisquero is the grapes though come rom different It isn’t immediately obvious that family´s latest project. I met the districts around Chile.It´s impor- it’s a Carménere, which is ok head wine maker Sergio Hormaza- tant to say where they come from Mauro says. A great wine’s taste is bal rigtht in the middle of harvest- as the climate varies a lot,” never dominated by its grapes. ing the Carménere grapes in the says Sergio. We´re even sicussing middle of May. whether man should change the Mauro is very proud of his Icon DO laws, from the north-south wine. The only blot on the es- “We want to be innovative”, says line that obtains today to east-west cutcheon was last year when ex Sergio, “We are a newly formed which has a really big importance Chilenian president Bachelet tast- company and were not bogged to the character of the wine. If the ed the wine and was so delighted down by any traditions, rather we vineyard lies towards the Andes or that wanted to take a case of it can make our own way forward. the coast? to give to President Sarkozy. The We decided from the beginning That´s what makes the great dif- wine had only just been bottled that we would respect and protect ference. The problem is that Chile and didn’t have a label. The solu- the environment. The buildings has a trading agreement with the tion was to print up a label from are built with a glass roof so that EU , where the present appela- the computer on the spot and stick we can make use of the natural tions are approved. If we change it hastily onto the bottles. Not at light and in this way save energy. the rules we´ll have to enter into a all worthy of a great wine. What The wine facility is built in earth new agreement with the EU >>> 20 they want to retain as much as possi- Chardonnay and we succeeded Ventisquero has vineyards spread ble of its freshness as possible. Before by, amongst other things working out in many different districts but the fermentation begin the essence a lot with sedimentation, a tech- only one winery. has had skin contact for 6 hours. nique that we´ve “nicked” from “The longest distance we ever The grapes are harvested at dif- France. We like to use traditional need to transport the grapes is ferent times. Some grapes are a techniques that work. three hours by lorry, so it’s not a little less ripe than others and problem,” says Sergio. The grapes contribute To the green character- “Ventisquero´s Pinot Noir grapes come almost exclusively from istic. While the riper grapes lend also come from Casablanca”, Ser- vineyards that are owned by Vent- a certain tropical fruit character gio tells us. The climate there is isquero.We only buy in 2% of our instead. good for the grapes, there are dif- grape requirements., says Sergio The bottles will be sealed with ferent kinds of soil and vineyards The green grapes come mainly with varying hillside slopes and from Casablanca, which is not exposure to the sun which gives far from the sea. “Here, he says, the wine a good balance. We look is an interesting soil and a fresh for the best Terroir in Casablanca cold climate”. The temperatues for the Pinot Noir, here are good for white wines and But also in Colchagua and soon even Pinot Noir. “We start the harvest in Leida. We are trying many differ- in the beginning of March and ent Pinot wines to teach ourselves. end in May. The last ne out is History about the Pinot Noir in the Chardonnay, they ripen more Chile is being written now. slowly, the mornings are misty in Sergio thinks “It’s real challenge Casablanca during the autumn, so working with Pinot Noir”. It´s a it´s about looking after the foli- complex grape, you need more age so that there´s not rot on the than a 100 years to understand it. bunches of grapes. “Speaking honestly, ten years ago , screw tops, which Sergio thinks the Pinot Noir wasn´t that good, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay retaion the fresh aroma. The wine but now things are changing very are treated differently in the vine- has a clean and fresh fragrance, quickly and the quality improves yards. Sergio likes to protect the with a little citrus, pineapple and every year. We change to better Sauvignon Blanc from the sun. So pear. A wine that should be drunk clones, and study different root he therefore he only thins out the while it´s still young. systems, Pinot Noir Reserva 2009 foliage in the middle of the vine, Grey Chardonnay from Tsapihu is a pleasant , light and elegant pi- leaving the rest for protection vineyard in Casablanca is the not with good grape characteris- against excessive exposure to the property´s to Chardonnay harvest tics. The fruitiness dominates and sun´s rays. The Chardonnay on in the beginning of May. With the wine hasn´t been stored on the other hand gets partly shade Chardonnay they want the grapes oak. Sergio wants fruit like cher- and partly sunshine. The sun gives to be really ripe. The wine fer- ries and rasberries to be prevalent. the “honey” aroma to the wine. ments in the oak casks. (Barrique 225 liters) “We´re very careful All of the Pinot Noir receives a We´re tasting the Sauvignon Blanc to get the balance right between cold maceration period, some- Reserva 2010. The wine has had the wood and the fruit”, Sergio times as much as many weeks at 5 three week´s fermentation at points out. “2008 is our second degrees to extract the colour. This 13 degrees celcius. ”Not extremely vintage for this wine and we here demands in itself very rigorous cold”,, says Sergio, at Ventisquero are very proud hygiene. The essence is protected The wine doesn´t undergo the over the success the wine has had. by sulphur, and is tested every malolactic fermentation, because “We wanted to make an elegant day.The fermentation is started >>> 21 starting to find the cautiously and apparent Cabernet in fragrance- for quality grapes. the temperature is maintained 22- black currents, cedar wood, tan- The wine has lain for 20 months 25 degrees. Sergio doesn´t believe nins are clearly defined but soft on French oak casks, of which that the color has to be so strong, and good balance without any 60% are new. “Laying on the Oak that the fragrance is pure and fine jammyness. “We work hard with gives the wine a roundness and a isd the most important thing. tannins,” says Sergio.”For example complexity,” say Sergio who has by leaving the foliage, regulating had advice from the wellknown Herú is the name of their top Pi- the irrigation and deciding the Syrah expert John Duval, who was not. The grapes come from the harvest date carefully. We do re- previously wine master at Pen- slopes with clay, resting upon a montage every day in the begin- folds in Australia. Nowadays he’s granite cliff. “This is very exciting ning, and also check the tannins a consultant. The wine has a lot terroir“, says Sergio. It gives pu- on the first days. Buy at the first of fruitiness, ripe- freshly crushed- rity to the wine, perhaps because indication of dehydration in the and some Syrah spiciness. just these slopes get less exposure Fruit then we reduce the remon- The wine is so concentrated that to the sun. You can feel it with tage. It’s also important to choose the fragrance is drifting in a port this wine, Sergio continues, Like the right moment to break off the wine direction, or blackcurrents they´re starting to get the Pinot skin contact. pickled in alcohol. Drink it to Noir style. Herú 2008 has a clear pungent cheeses or red meat. relationship with a Bourgogne, Grey Merlot is an important wine except perhaps a little bit stronger. for Ventisquero. “Chilean Merlot John Duval is the consultant for Here we find decaying leaves, good has a complicated history“, Sergio the Syrah wine Pangea 2006 as finesse and a little cherry fruit. tells us, and Merlot is a compli- well, which also comes from Apal- The name Hérú comes from the cated grape. “After the Pinot Noir, ta in Colchuagua: The vines are gold mines in the area. the Merlot is the biggest challenge 10 years old and well adapted to The local villagers say that there to vitify. the red clay and granite soil. It is a are elves that look after the mines. People have a certain bias to- complex wine with great concen- Herú is the chief of the elves. Who wards Merlot”, he continues, it tration and dark fruit also watches over Ventisquero´s should be gentle, lighter in style It needs time to develop itself, the Pinot treasure. There are only than the Cabernet Sauvignon. But tannins are still very strong. The 6000 bottles of this wine. often it’s the complete opposite. structure is tight and chewy, here A a little curiosity I can tell you That’s why you have to find the is also a fine minerality. that in Ventisquero, they don´t right balance. A merlot should not consider Pinot Noir to be real red be too powerful or concentrated Sergio is still looking for Terroir wine. It is namely the white wine because then it easy for the tan- in Chile, “the best is still to be makers that vinify the nins to be dry. “It’s easy to cross found”, he says. Merlot and Pinot Pinot Noir wines. the boundary, so you have to be Noir are exciting wine projects Queulat is a n Bengt Göran Kronstam, 2010 n ! y t h e Kraftfullt med inslag av mogna röda bär, björnbär, körsbär och svarta vinbär. Inslag av tobak, lakrits, kanel och balsamico. Support our Lång, fyllig eftersmak och välbalanserade tanniner. Ruit Hora 2007, 129 kr - 75 cl FINNS I FLERA SYSTEMBOLAGSBuTIKER OCH GÅR ATT BESTÄLLA operation and TILL ALLA FRÅN OCH MED DEN 1 OKTOBER, NR 2842 e yh t inform us about ! Dão, Portugal n FYND! n ! y t h Di.se 2010 e Fine Wines Fräscht och blommigt matvin med en tilltalande mix av viol, Take this opportunity to give your- TIONALbjörnbär och apelsinblomma. PICOS do Couto Reserva 2007, 88 kr - 75 cl selves and your friends Fine Wine INTERNA FINNS I SYSTEMBOLAGETS ALLA BuTIKER, NR 6700 throughout the whole of 2010. A present that will last a long time. ENaståENDE! supErFYND! Pay Sek: 250:- Dina Viner 2009 into the bank giro number BG 721-1980 and add the E-mail address of the lucky recipient of Ett rikt, komplext och fylligt australiensiskt vin med med inslag av röda bär, fat och rosmarin. Mjuka och välbalanserade tan- niner och en lång frisk eftersmak. this thoughtful and lovely present. RED BARON Shiraz, 109 kr - 75 cl FINNS I ALLA SYSTEMBOLAGSBuTIKER, NR 2194 (send to stellankramer.se [email protected]) Alkoholkonsumtion under graviditeten kan skada barnet. 23 bubbles rise to the top a visit from friexenet Ask any one in Sweden about Friexnet and the answer will probably be, the sparkling wine in the jet black bottle. What most people don’t know is the what lies behind the success. Let’s start at the beginning. The company was started by the with her good knowledge of oenol- marketing. Mostly because of its amalgamation of two families, both ogy, she ruled with an iron hand huge success on the home market with long traditions in making wine. until her death. With offices in and its early forays onto the inter- The Ferrer family from Friexeneda London and New Jersey already national stage. (St: Quinti di Mediona) who have back in 1935, she created a brand been around since the 12th century with a good reputation for skillful The Carta Nevada is one of the lead- and the Sala family who owned land ing brands in Germany and Spain, as in Saint Sadumi di Ánoia. Together is the Cordon Nero on the Ameri- they coosed the brandname: Freix- can market. It’s perhaps not so well ent/Bosch. All of this was back in the known up here in the north that the 19th century when they started to Friexenet has always been one jump export wine to America. ahead thanks to its use of new tech- nology. When then Dolores Sala Vive, the Back in 1974 they were the first founder’s grand daughter married producer in Spain to use pneu- Pedro Ferrer Bosch in the beginning matic presses for the grapes. At the of the 20th century, the Friexnet same time they were alone in trans- brand was based on the earlier plat- porting their entire harvest in 20kg form Casa Sala. boxes. An operation that is very When Pedro died his wife took expensive, but which actually guar- over the reins of the company and antees that the grapes are in perfect >>> 24 condition when they arrive. really say that the first step towards The Fiexenet Group has its own quality of the bass wine is the most cellars in Penedés in Katalonia in Another important of Friexenet´s important. Spain, Champagne in France, Son- success is the development of its Obviously for confidential reasons oma in California and Querétaro own yeast, within their own labora- we cannot go into any further into in Mexico. Which is the result of a tories, in great big installations and the actual types of yeast, but suffice decision to develop sparkling wines very competent personnel on hand it to say that there many doors to in the traditional method in dif- to show off the lab and its develop- many refrigerators that had to be ferent locations all over the world. ment dept and just what they are unlocked through this phase of the Today Friexenet is largest producer working on right now. Friexnet´s facility. of sparkling wines in the world. At the present time Cava is exported to “Cava is a naturally sparkling wine Lately they have changed over to 150 countries Sweden is its 7th big- according to the Champagne- or an automated system to stack up gest market. traditional method, the bass wine is the bottles below ground to make The yearly export is around 130 re-fermented in sealed bottles. The the work a lot easier. The new robot million bottles a year. method consists of two stages, pre- system even takes care of the bottle’s paring the bass wine and commenc- numerical rotation. For more Information go to www. ing the process. That why it they can friexenet.se 25 Den bästa moderna Riojan! ”Den bästa moderna riojan är 2004 BARON DE LEY RESERVA för 105 kronor. Välstrukturerad med betydande mognadstoner och friskt, långt slut gör den till ett stort spanskt vin i prisklassen.” Anders Röttorp, DI Weekend www.enjoywine.se Alkohol kan skada din hälsa. 26 fine wine tasting 2010 This year’s edition of the Fine Wine Tasting arranged by Fine Wine International at the Royal Castle (Kungliga Borgen) at Gärdet in Stockholm. Was held for the 5th year in a row and was a great success. The idea behind the Fine Wine Tasting was to cre- This the collaboration was extended to the Chain des ate a forum in Sweden where Wine Journalists, Som- Rotisseurs who also invited their members. melier, Innkeepers and others have the possibility to The photo shows some of the guests who attended the taste products that importers and agents consider to tasting. As usual we would show all those interested be Fine Wines for the Autumn of 2010. in Fine Wines what was on the tables. The following are for your information with our compliments. >>> 27 Arvid Nordquist HAB Art nr namn Pris Mousserande 7404 Langlois-Chateau Cremant de Loire 119:- 7410 Dopff Brut Cremant d’Alsace 106:- (1/2 65:-) 7418 Bollinger Special Cuvée 389:- 96372 Bollinger Rosé 499:- White 95403 Pernand Vergelesses 1:er cru Les Caradeux 2007, Chanson 299:- 71077 The Mentors Chenin Blanc 2008, KWV 195:- RED 7463 Château Musar 2003 269:- 7463 Château Musar 2002 269:- Château Musar 1979 94424 Château La Nerthe 2007 319:- 74911 The Mentors Orchestra 2007, KWV 195:- 74902 The Mentors Shiraz 2008, KWV 199:- 94480 Pieve de Monaci Syrah 2007 113:- 22320 Bolla Le Poiane 2008 109:- 95651 Pernand Vergelesses 1:er cru Les Vergelesses 2007 299:- 72748 Café Culture Box 259:- Enjoy Wine & Spirits Art nr producent namn Pris (kons) KOD 75295 Dona Maria Dona Maria Reserva 2005 250 rött 75298 Rolland Collection Val de Flores 2004 400 rött 75297 Rolland Collection Yacochuya 2004 435 rött Firriato Harmonium ej SB rött 94418 Gini Contrada Salvarenza 2007 199 vitt lans 1/9 94615 Tommasso Bussola Valpolicella Classico Superiore 2005 239 rött lans 1/11 2305-02 Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga 2005 169 rött 500m llans 1/10 73926 La Spinetta Ca di Pian 2007 195 rött Musella Musella Amarone 2005 369 rött 3144 Bodegas El Meson El Meson Crianza 2007 79 rött lans 1/10 2525 Baron de Ley Baron de Ley Reserva 2005 105 rött 4570 Baron de Ley Club Privado Reserva 2005 103 rött 73327 Baron de Ley Finca Monasterio 2007 205 rött 5882 Christmann Christmann Riesling 2009 119 vitt 72655 Juliusspital Randersackerer Pfülben Riesling Spätlese trocken 2009 199 vitt 72659 Juliusspital Escherndorfer Lump Silvaner Spätlese trocken 2009 199 vitt 72657-02 Juliusspital Würzburger Stein Riesling Auslese 169 dessert 500ml 72656 Gunderloch Riesling Auslese 3 sterne 2000 249 vitt 7872 de Venoge Blanc de Noirs 319 champagne lans 1/10 72435 Umani Ronchi Casal di Serra Vecchie Vigne 2007 122 vitt BS 94419 Umani Ronchi Cumaro Rosso Conero 2006 159 rött lans 1/9 72792 Massaya Massaya Gold Reserve 2005 299 rött Nino Negri Sfursat Valtellina 2005 ej SB rött >>> 28 Terrific Wines 74319 Clotilde Davenne Chablis 159 vitt 73813 Robert Sinskey Cabernet Franc 2005 275 rött 73316 Domaine de la Grand’CourFleurie Viellies Vignes 2008 150 rött 75304 Bressia Profundo 209 rött 73499 Goedhart Bel’Villa Vineyard Syrah 2007 299 rött Freixenet Svenska AB Art nr producent Namn Pris grossist Kod sB nr pris konsument 9016410 FERNADO DE CASTILLA ANTIQUE PX SHERRY 15% Nyhet 9014035 FERNADO DE CASTILLA FINO SHERRY 15% 130 BS 7613501 163 kr 9014032 FERNADO DE CASTILLA PEDRO XIMENEZ SHERRY 17% 75CL 170 BS 7613601 159 kr 9014031 FERNADO DE CASTILLA FDC SOLERA GRAN RESERVA 38% 70CL 375 BS 8744001 439 kr 9014030 FERNADO DE CASTILLA FDC SOLERA RESERVA 36% 70CL 225 BS 8742001 269 kr 9000264 MORLANDA MAS DE SUBIRA CRIANZA 165 9013778 MORLANDA MORLANDA BLANCO 75CL 195 9013818 MORLANDA MORLANDA VI DE GUARDA 75CL 360 9014180 SAN FELICE BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO DOCG 255 BS 7351601 299 kr 9014182 SAN FELICE CHIANTI CLASSICO, DOCG 102 BS 7321201 120 kr 9014184 SAN FELICE SAN FELICE IL GRIGIO, DOCG 145 BS 7344301 169 kr 9014177 SAN FELICE POGGIO ROSSO, DOCG 260 BS 7346201 299 kr 9014179 SAN FELICE PUGNITELLO, TOSCANA 260 9014185 SAN FELICE VIGORELLO, TOSCANA IGT 260 BS 7347801 299 kr 9016213 CHATEAU LASCOMBES CHATEAU LASCOMBES MARGAUX 07 465 9013548 FREIXENET ELYSSIA GRAND CUVEE NV 130 BS 7715001 149 kr 9012406 FREIXENET ELYSSIA PINOT NOIR NV 125 BS 7715101 144 kr 9000332 FREIXENET FREIXENET BRUT VINTAGE 75CL 76 BS 8847401 94 kr 9000333 FREIXENET FREIXENET RESERVA REAL BRUT 147 BS 8895901 169 kr JanÅke Wine Group SB Rest/Gross inkl. exkl. all- sorti- ant./ nr nr moms moms mänt ment kolli 663701 9013212 Quintay Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Leyda (T) 89,00 71,20 SB 12 221201 9014905 Reserve du Vieux Noir 2008 80,00 64,00 SB 12 7727801 9016477 Bouvet Brut Chardonnay (T) 109,00 87,20 BS 6 7727901 9016409 Brut Tradition Premier Cru (T) 279,00 223,20 BS 6 741701 9010629 Rosé Brut (T) 285,00 228,00 SB 6 7208801 9015136 Les Pallières, Les Racines 2007 289,00 231,20 BS 12 7208901 9015137 Les Pallières, Terasse du Diable 2007 289,00 231,20 BS 12 9015140 Domaine la Roquète 2007 329,00 263,20 RS 12 381401 9000409 Les Hauts de Granget 2006, St Emilion Grand Cru 159,00 127,20 SB 12 7430301 9003666 G&J Amarone della Valpolicella 2004 499,00 399,20 BS 6 7368501 9014238 Serras del Priorat 2009 169,00 135,20 Nyhet BS 12 9440001 9016127 Alto Shiraz 2008 139,00 111,20 Nyhet SB 12 2205501 9000398 Jacobsdal Pinotage 2006/2007 112,00 89,60 SB 12 7263001 9016124 Tukulu Fairtrade Unwooded Shiraz 2009 99,00 79,20 Nyhet BS 6 >>> 29 Handpicked Namn Art nr producent Pris Kod Australia 2006 Tamburlaine Reserve Syrah (EKO) 75320-01 Tamburlaine 169:- Best 2007 Tamburlaine Reserve Chardonnay (EKO) 75321-01 Tamburlaine 149:- Best france Déela (EKO) 73892-01 Domaine Les Aurelles 149:- Best Solen (EKO) 73893-01 Domaine Les Aurelles 169:- Best Italy 2006 Grifalco Aglianico del Vulture 73147-01 Grifalco della Luciana 119:- Best 2006 Nittardi Chianti Classico Reserva 95870-01 Fattoria Nittardi 349:- SB 2006 Nittardi ”Nectar Dei” 96371-01 Fattoria Nittardi 389:- SB 2008 Dolcetto d’Alba ”Vigna del Mandorlo” 73690-01 Elvi Cogno 149:- Best 2004 Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG ”Vigna Elena” 95268-01 Elvio Cogno 529:- SB 2005 Elvio Cogno Barolo DOCG ”Ravera” 95278-01 Elvio Cogno 429:- SB 2006 Tabarrini Montefalco Rosso 95940-01 Tabarrini 169:- SB 2004 Tabarrini Sagratino Montefalco 473087-01 Tabarrini 349:- Best 2008 Cà del Magro Custoza Sup. 72693-01 Monte del Fra 99:- Best 2006 Vigne Alte Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella 473088-01 Zeni 349:- Best 2008 Rosso di Brenno (EKO) ej klart Poggio Paulo 229:- Best Nya Zeeland Anthem Discover Pinot Noir 95762-01 Anthem 159:- Best Anthem Riesling 94540-01 Anthem 149:- SB Anthem Discover Pinot Gris 73889-01 Anthem 149:- Best Portugal 2006 Chocapalha Reserva 89916-01 Quinta de Chocapalha 189:- Best 2007 Guru 73013-01 Wine & Soul 249:- Best 2006 Pintas Character from 1 dec Wine & Soul 249:- Best 2005 Pintas Vintage Port from 1 dec Wine & Soul 435:- SB 2009 Topázio Branco from 15 nov Enoport 99:- SB 2008 Topázio Tinto from 15 nov Enoport 99:- SB Spain 2006 Son Prim Merlot 73890-01 Son Prim 175:- Best 2006 Son Prim Cabernet Sauvignon 73891-01 Son Prim 175:- Best 2005 Monastrel 72402-01 Heretat de Cesilia 149:- Best South afrika 2009 Lomond Pincusion Sauvignon Blanc 73602-01 Lomond 119:- Best USA 2006 Dundee Hill Pinot Noir (EKO) 75478-01 Sokol Blosser 239:- BS >>> 30 Prime Wine Art nr Producent Namn Pris (kons) KOD företag Champagne 81466 Henriot Brut Souverain NV 349 kr BS mw 74322 Henriot Brut Millesime 1996 569 k BS mw 94828 Henriot Brut Millesime 1998 522 kr TSE mw 94869 Diebolt-Valois Fleur de Passion 2004 479Kr TSE pw white 82844 Iona Sauvignon Blanc 2009 139 kr BS mw 82846 Sattlerhof Sauvignon Blanc 2009 169 kr BS mw 73053 Sattlerhof Privat 2006 419 kr BS mw 82802 Loimer Steinmassl Riesling ? 289 kr BS mw 88043/ 98888 Gobelsburg Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru 2008 269kr/355kr TSE/BS pw red 74788 Aldo Conterno Barbera Conca Tre Pile 275 kr BS mw 83443 Palacios Remondo La Montesa Crianza 2007 139 kr BS mw 94844 Palacios Remondo Propiedad 2007 199 kr TSE mw 74330 Heinrich Heinrich Zweigelt 2008 149 kr BS mw 74329 Heinrich Panobile 200 269 kr BS mw 656001 Palandri Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 119 kr B mw 73836 Bodegas Roda Roda Reserva 2006 259 kr BS pw 73862 Bodegas Roda Roda I Reserva 2005 399 kr BS pw 96340 Bodegas Roda Cirsion 2006 1112 kr SB (TSE) pw X52026RI1001 Rijk´s Estate Estate Syrah 2007 299SEK Privat imp pw Stellan Kramer AB Art Nr producent Namn Pris kod 5249 Arthur Metz Company Arthur Metz Gewurztraminer 2009 89 SB 94329 Viña Undurraga T.H. Sauvignon Blanc Lo Abarca 2009 139 Exklusiva 6700 FTP Vinhos PICOS Reserva 2007 88 SB 2194 Fox Creek Wines Red Baron Shiraz 2008 109 SB 94353 Viña Undurraga T.H. Pinot Noir West Casablanca 2008 149 Exklusiva 77189 J.P. CHENET J.P. CHENET Brut 69 BS 74499 Duca di Salaparuta Passo delle Mule Nero d’ Avola, Sicilien 179 BS 74498 Duca di Salaparuta Làvico Vajasindi 2005 Sicilien 149 BS - Marqués del Real Tesoro Real Tesoro Fino Tio Mateo 130 Privat Imp - Marqués del Real Tesoro Real Tesoro Amontillado “del Príncipe” 164 Privat Imp - Marqués del Real Tesoro Real Tesoro Olorosa Covadonga (VORS) 1995 Privat Imp 8231 Marqués del Real Tesoro Real Tesoro Sherry 84 SB 8232 Marqués del Real Tesoro Real Tesoro Cream Sherry 93 SB - Marqués del Real Tesoro Real Tesoro Pedro Ximenez 135 Privat Imp 8403 Duca di Salaparuta Vecchiolforio Marsala Superiore 99 SB 2842 Caccia al Piano 1868 (Gruppo Berlucchi) Caccia al Piano 1868 Ruit Hora 2007 - Bolgheri DOC 129 SB - FTP Vinhos Picos do Couto Sparkling 130 Privat Imp - FTP Vinhos Doval Colheita 2007 85 Privat Imp - FTP Vinhos Doval Colheita 2008 85 Privat Imp - FTP Vinhos Serrado Colheita 2009 70 Privat Imp - Fox Creek Wines Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 239 Privat Imp - Fox Creek Wines Reserve Merlot 239 Privat Imp >>> 31 - Fox Creek Wines Reserve Shiraz 419 Privat Imp 429 Knockdhu Distillery Co anCnoc 12 Years Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky 339 SB 247 Chateau du Breuil Château du Breuil VSOP 324 SB 212 Chateau du Breuil Château du Breuil Réserve des Seigneurs XO 349 SB 330 Janneau Janneau Grand Armagnac VSOP 349 SB 638 Marie Brizard Sève Fournier Liqueur 209 SB 10465 Pulteney Distillery Co Old Pulteney 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky 349 SB 2048201 Speyburn Distillery Speyburn Bradan Orach 289 SB VINLUSEN AB Artikelnr producent Namn pris 9016164 Trénel Fils Crémant de Bourgogne Brut Nature ”Hommage”, Biodynamiskt odlade 129,- ex moms Priv 9016163 Trénel Fils Mâcon-Villages 2009 95,- ex moms Priv 9016162 Trénel Fils Juliénas ”L’ésprit de Marius Sangouard”2009 89,- ex moms Priv 9016149 Dom de la Vinconnière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine sur Lie 2009 65,- ex moms Priv 473343-01 Daniel Crochet Sancerre Blanc 2009 143,- BS 9016169 Gilles Chollet Pouilly Fumé 2009 119,- ex moms Priv 9016160 Domaine des Hauts Saumur Blanc 2009 de Sanziers 9,- ex moms Priv 9016180 Chateau de Suronde, Quarts de Chaume 2003 ekologiskt odlade druvor 269,- ex moms Priv 9016168 Fattoria Poggio Capponi Chianti 2008 79,- ex moms Priv 9016167 Fattoria Poggio Capponi Chianti Montespertoli Petriccio 2007 105,- ex moms Priv 9016166 Azienda Collefrisio ZERO Trebbiano d’Abruzzo 2009 ekologiskt odlade druvor 75,- ex moms Priv 72227-01 Azienda Collefrisio ZERO Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2008 ekologiskt odlade druvor 99,- BS 7217501 Az Agri Odoardi Vigna Garonne 2004 299,- BS 7271501 Az Agri Odoardi Savuto 2005 119,- BS 9016454 Quinta Sá de Baixo Paco da Servicaria 2008 60,- ex moms Priv 720403-01 Valentina Cubi Arusnatico Valpolicella Classico Superiore Ripasso 2004 228,- BS 72824-01 Valentina Cubi Morar Amarone della Valpolicella 2005 525,- BS 9015430 Cognac Maxime Trijol Maxime Trijol VS 279,- ex moms 86327 Maxime Trijol VSOP 369,- BS 9016326 Maxime Trijol VSOP Grande Champagne 349,- ex moms 9016321 Maxime Trijol XO 449,- ex moms 9016328 Cognac Maxime Trijol Pineau des Charentes blanc 149,- ex moms Vinoliv Art nr. producent Namn Pris (rest ) pris (kons) kod* (exl moms) (inkl moms) n.a Aurelio Settimo Langhe 05 159,- 1.584,- (6 fl) PI n.a Aurelio Settimo Barolo 05 224,- 2.160,- (6 fl) PI n.a Aurelio Settimo Barolo Rocche 05 272,- 485,- PI 73457 Capannelle Solare 04 314,- 545,- BS 73458 Capannelle 50 & 50 05 876,- 1.183,- BS 73459 Capannelle Chianti Classico Riserva 07 207,- 1.698,- (6 fl) BS n.a Capannelle Chardonnay 08 234,- 2.160,- (6 fl) PI n.a Casteani Sessanta 08 99,- förfrågan PI >>> 32 n.a Casteani Terra di Casteani 08 129,- förfrågan PI n.a Franco Molino Barbera 08 109,- 1.064,- (6 fl) PI n.a Franco Molino Barbera Superiore 07 141,- 1.364,- (6 fl) PI n.a Franco Molino Langhe 07 109,- 1.064,- (6 fl) PI n.a Franco Molino Barolo 06 163,- 1.614,- (6 fl) PI n.a Franco Molino Barolo Villero Ris. 04 282,- 495,- PI n.a Garbole Valpolicella Superiore 07 159,- 1584,- (6 fl) PI n.a Garbole Amarone 06 369,- 595,- PI n.a Garbole Recioto della Valpolicella 06 186,- förfrågan PI 73735 Il Paradiso di Frass. Music in Paradise 239,- 807,- (3 fl) BS (DO 12 Uve 05, GEA 06, Brunello di Montalcino 04) 73737 Il Paradiso di Frass. DO 12 Uve 05 168,- 1.404,- (6 fl) BS 73738 Il Paradiso di Frass. GEA 06 127,- 1.074,- (6 fl) BS 73739 Il Paradiso di Frass. Brunello di Montalcino 04 239,- 1.932,- (6 fl) BS n.a Isodi Chianti Classico 07 98,- 1.026,- (6 fl) PI n.a Isodi Chianti Classico Riserva 06 138,- 1.386,- (6 fl) PI 73732 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso 06 445,- 669,- BS (1 okt) 73733 Le Macchiole Scrio 06 725,- 995,- BS (1 okt) 73734 Le Macchiole Messorio 06 1095,- 1.570,- BS (1 okt) 73734 Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso 08 159,- 199,- TSE(15 nov) 73461 Petrolo Torrione 07 199,- 335,- BS 73463 Petrolo Galatrona 07 608,- 895,- BS 73460 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Mont. 05 149,- 1.134,- (6 fl) BS n.a Salcheto Rosso di Montepulciano 08 99,- 1.026,- (6 fl) PI n.a Santa Lucia Collis Pollionis DOC Rosso 05 72,- 1.380,- (12 fl) PI n.a Santa Lucia Ótio IGT Rosso Lazio 04 154,- 1.530,- (6 fl) PI n.a Santa Lucia Morrone IGT Rosso Lazio 04 217,- 2.130 (6 fl) PI n.a Santa Lucia Elodia IGT Bianco Lazio 08 159,- 1.584,- (6 fl) PI 73736 Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Sagrantino 05 199,- 297,- BS n.a Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Rosso 07 119,- 1.134,- (6 fl) PI n.a Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Sagr. Passito 05 239,- förfrågan PI n.a Scacciadiavoli Grechetto dell’Umbria 09 79,- 774,- (6 fl)- PI n.a Villa Angarano Angarano Rosso Merlot 07 89,- 930,- (6 fl) PI n.a Villa Angarano Quare di Angarano 06 (Cab. S.) 167,- 1.650,- (6 fl) PI n.a Villa Angarano Angarano Bianco Vespaiolo 09 88,- 930,- (6 fl) PI n.a Villa Angarano Ca’ Michiel 07 (Chardonnay) 124,- 1.260,- (6 fl) PI Priserna avseende privatimport (PI) är indikativa. Priset kan I de flesta fall bli lägre vid leverans inom Stockholmsområdet eller vid större volymer. VinUnic 3925 Chateau Belgrave 2006 289:- 94593 Pommard Epenots 1er Cru 2007 299 :- lansering 1 nov. Maison Louis Jadot 94471 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005 285 :- E. Guigal 94416 Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano 2005 249 :- Arnaldo Caprai 7602 Louis Roederer Brut Premier 355 :- 33 Genuin engelsk Ale från Fuller´s 34 fine wine tasting 2010 autumn stews and wild, bywild Christopher Jarnvall wines It was difficult to muster up any Autumnal ambience in the brilliant late summer September sun. Fine Wine was holding its annual tasting at the Royal Fort on Gärdet, in Stockholm. King Karl Johan´s 14th Standard was raised, and we could sense the royal presence through the windows, with its overview of the erstwhile military maneuver fields of Regal Gärdet. But enough shadows from the illustrious walls of the old Fort. The Fort burnt down about a decade ago and was restored from the original blue prints. However a more fitting place to maybe? Or the Fox Creek (Shiraz) hold a wine tasting on a sunny 2006 (private import) which was September day, is hard to imagine. a very special, wonderful wine. But if you, like me are out look- Which I would like to drink to ing for some good wines to ac- elk. company this Autumn’s roasted game and stews then it’s little bit Even Frenchie , not to forget- is difficult to accomplish with warm often successful with His Rhóne cheeks and not only from the sun. wines to game dishes. But in the end, with a little help, Another great Italian was the Am- The Cháteauneuf- du- Pape 2005 everything turned out fine. arone Vigne Alte 2006 (the best) should be ideal to wild boar or The help was in the form of hefty sweet, but good with the stew or venison. There are some other suit- Frenchmen, well rounded Italians the cheese afterwards. Another able French wines at the System and one or another gamey Aus- wild Italian that was presented Bolaget for drinking to game, Les tralians or Lebanese. at the Royal Fort was Ruit Hora Palliéres, Les Racines 2007 (rest 2007, which will be on the shelves of the assortment) The former I I tried to imagine how the king of in the SystemBolaget 1st October. would drink to pheasant, the lat- Sicily ever drank anything like the Excellent together with roast Boar ter to elk. They’re not cheap, but rough Grifalco 2006 vintage (the or Elk and at a very reasonable very good. best) that was offered to me and price. Though the best, if perhaps When I open the next bottle to go would without doubt go well the a little strange was the non Eu- with my game stew, I will recall wild boar that that same monarch ropean bird’s the Chateau Musar the memory of this Autumn after- had brought down during the 1979- which should just be drunk noon at the Royal Fort in Stock- hunt. to pan fried bird. Like Grouse holm with me. Mmmmmm. 35 the château la nerthe always significant Said by Robert Parker: ”Château La Nerthe, the only exquisite chateau in all of Chateauneuf-du-Pape with its rich history, produces sublime wines: a limited production of white Châteauneuf-du- Pape and two cuvées or red Châteauneuf-du-Pape, its a traditional cuvée as well as its old-vine parcel called ”Cuvée des Cadettes”. Today, these wines have the aging poten- tial of a great Bordeaux first-growth and the complexity of a great Burgundy, but these are clearly Châteauneuf-du-Papes, often smelling like an open-air market in one of the small, charming Provencal hilltowns”. Fine words from a discerning which today includes La Nerthe the first vineyard in the world to man. But we can only be of the in excess of a 100 hectares. have spliced vines. He was also the same mind, La Nerthe is a very They were amongst the pioneers one who developed the blend of special property. The first time it in bottling, back in 1784 they grapes that has become so typical was mentioned was back in the were already doing it directly on of the district (there are 18 differ- 1560´s when the Marquise Tull the property. Back then it was ent kinds of approved grapes here, de Villefranche purchased it as a regularly reported to be the best not the 13 that are normally men- country retreat. Back then it was in the district. tioned) Incidently most of those called Grange de Beauvenir (To- are to be found at La Nerthe. day the name is used for the prop- The property was hit early on and Unfortunately his descendants erty’s white prestige cuvee) That hard by the wine louse pestilence. didn´t show the same interest in same year the foundations for the It was then sold on to Joseph Da- the castle and after the second cellar were laid. Wine had been cul- cos in 1869. He was a brilliant en- world war, where is was seriously tivated here even long before that. gineer and entreprenour. damaged - after being occupied by The pretty castle was designed He is perhaps most known as the the german Luftwaffe high com- in 1736 by Avignon’s most promi- man the saved the European wine mand fell into ruin and eventually nent architect, Jean Baptiste cultivation from extinction. It was its wine too. Franque, but was first erected sev- he who first discovered that the Rescue came in the form of the eral decades later. method to defeat the with wine Richard Family (giants in the cof- The Villefranche family succes- louse was to splice Vitis Vinifera fee business) an interesting paralell sively extended the property, by onto resistant American vine roots to the Swedish family Nordquist, buying up the neighboring land, and La Nerthe actually become who likewise controlled a coffee >>> 36 empire. After having bought the property the Richards employed the legendary Alain Dugas to run the place. Before long both the castle and the vineyard regained its former glory. One usually counts the year 1990 as the first milestone under the new regime. Alain has successively increased the amount of durable grapes, Syrah and Mouvedre but still of course the Grenache as concert master. Alain has recently retired, but don’t believe for a second that he ´s lost enthusiasm and is rest- ing on laurels. He has started a new project in the Ukraine, which he sees has an enormous potential. So we wait excitedly for the wines from there. Today there are 4 wines that are produced at La Nerthe. A red , a white “normal” Chateauneuf as well as a prestige cuvéee of each colour, Cuvéee des Cadettes on the red side and Cos de Be La Nerthe Beauvenir on the white. All of the castle´s wines “lay down “well, which includes the prestige cuvéees particularly. It is notable that the white bis just as storable as the red. To drink a white La Right now Chateau La Nerthe is magnificent 2007 vintage, one of Nerthe before its 5th birthday is very topical in Sweden with its the best ever from the district. pure cradle snatching. Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätet All världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig. Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad. 37 René Barbiér i ny tappning! Vit Art nr 2670 Pris 59:- Röd Art nr 2750 Pris: 64: Freixenet Nordic AB www.freixenet.se 38 a chat with kajsa bergqvist raising the bar on fine wines Most people in Sweden are aware of your interest in athletics, particularly the high jump, but how did you come to be interested in wine? My wine interest started with both food and wine. I’ve always had a strong interest in food. The wine start- ed in Stellenbosch in South Africa. I was there for 2 months a year at the end of the 90´s, and the vineyard was right next door to my training camp. So when my high jump career came to an end I started to seriously focus on food and drink. The next step was a Sommelier schooling at theR estau- rant Academy in 2008 and in 2009 I was already on the road lecturing about food and wine. What happened then? I got the chance to start up my own company through the wine group. It was a chance I didn’t want to miss. So we opened up Kajsa Wines in February 2010. What are your favorite regions Stellenbosch has always a place in my heart, Piedmont too. Have you considered having your own label, like Annika Sörenstam? No, not really. For more information go to www.kajsawine.se Plans for the future? I live for my company and I’m perfectly happy with my wines right now, and I have no plans to change that. 39 Wine Tin Englishours with BKWine We create wine tours specifically to your requirements, perhaps for you and a group of your friends, colleagues, business associates or customers... The tours can be focused on wine only or can be com- bined with other things such as golf, cultural visits, three-star restau- rants, gastronomic visits (cheese making, foie gras producers, oyster farms, sausage and ham production) for example. We work with “amateur” wine lovers and with professionals - wine importers, sommeliers, restaurateurs, wine journalists... We can do all levels: “just for fun and pleasure” to highly specialised and advanced educational tours. For more information, [email protected] eller gå in på www.bkwine.com Ge en vinupplevelse i present - hyr en vinrad! 40 the rocky road to success The Western Cape province in South Africa with its balmy Mediterranean climate offers fantastic possibilities for producing high class wine with unique characteristics. Here you find stony ground a plenty at different heights and places above the sea. This is one of the reasons that they can produce wines here of the utmost quality. The other is Jasper Raats. Welcome to Rudera. The actual name says a lot. Rud- soils and altitudes and things offer selling wines. Originally he comes era derives from the Latin “rudos” unique conditions for the different from his maternal side from the meaning small stones. Thanks to kinds of grapes that we work with. Huguenots of the Loire Valley who these conditions they can produce The even and reliable weather con- immigrated and laid the founda- here terroir powered high quality ditions results in distinctive wines tions for the most successful South wines. Chenin Blanc,Syrah, and with great complexities. African wine that we see today, for Cabernet Sauvignon are the most example in the western cape. Jasper predominant grapes that Jasper Jasper is a partner in Rudera to- worked in New Zealand for a short Raats, chief wine maker likes to gether with Johan and Elbie van while and made fantastic Pinot work with. Vooren and is the 9th generation of Noir and Sauvignon Blanc wines He has vineyards in Elgin, Stel- a wine making family from the vi- for Karu Wines. In other words he lenbosch and the Walker Bay area cinity. He has therefore hereditary has made an international name in the Western Cape. The various methods of both producing and for himself with experience in wine >>> 41 production of the absolute highest traditions and as naturally as pos- tain their own characteristics. quality and knows the potentiality sible. For example we never use of the things that mothernature cultivated yeast or enzymes. Os- You can read more about Jasper can offer. mosis is disgusting and we avoid Raats thisexciting south African filtering in all of our wines except- wine producer and Rudera at “My Philosophy is to let the vine- ing for the Robusto. In this way www.rudera.co.za/ yards speak through the wines. We we ensure that our wines remain make wines according to ancient unique, their originality and re- 42 POSTER ART Design by Summer.se 2008 43 one for the pot In South America, Venezuela to be exact lies Destileras Unidas. Here they produce a rum that is considered to be the most exclusive in the whole world. They have been pro- ducing rum here in the seven “kettles” , which consists of Copper Pot stills It is in fact the molasses that is dis- eight years. namon and fine nuts. tilled in the copper kettles then to The fragrance of the Diplomitico In the actual taste you will find be stored in white oak casks which Reserva is great and contains cara- dried figs, apricots, Fruity choco- undergone a roasting procedure melized sugar of course, but also late, and an exciting spiciness to- which is called “charreo” for up to pineapple, dried figs, apricots, cin- gether with-yes- vanilla. >>> 44 It isn’t just the environment that surrounds the Destileras Unidas that appeals to the billowing sugar cane fields, which in turn yields high quality 50-60% sugar. The wa- ter comes down from the mountains in babbling brooks. Purity created by nature. The Diplomatico Reserva Exclusiva 12 was launched about a year ago by the Swedish SystemBolaget. Success was long coming. This au- tumn there are the 350ml 8 year old bottles in stock. For more information about Diplo- matico go to www.dusa.com.ve. 45 summary of an administration by Christopher Jarnvall It’s not like you can say; “Well they got off to a good start!”, because everything looked a mess.!” They were quite simply, forced to react. Under the previous Social Democratic government, one had seriously discussed cutting tax on alcoholic beverages, as a method of re-directing consumption back to the legitimate mar- ketplace. It all looked quite reasonable and well thought out. A survey was carried out by the labor MP Kent Härstedt who is in no way an alcohol liberal… But then everything collapsed. to be so. Now the latest research tices with low prices what does Maria Larsson from the Christian analysis shows the misuse of alco- it mater then. It still easy for the Democrats came into power in hol amongst the young is alarm- children and youths to get hold 2006 took over the Governments ingly on the increase again. of alcohol through criminal sales- responsibility for alcohol political And to cap it off the Alliance, men- around the clock, every day questions. It was no longer an easy with naturally Maria Larsson and of the week. It would have been proposition for Anitra Steen to the Ministry of Finance under desirable if the government had pursue her reduced tax politic as Anders Borg have found a place contributed toward throttling this it had during her husband Göran in the Election manifesto to raise illegal trade. In Denmark is has be- Person´s tenure of office as prime taxes on wine and beer to thereby come apparent that people-young minister. Suddenly SoRAd:s sta- enrich the state’s coffers by 1 bil- people in particular -are beginning tistics over increased irregular lion Swedish crowns. Unfortu- to drink less and less potent. It is imports. The SystemBolaget was nately this Is a kind of politic that a trend. The Danes reduced taxes silent, statistics should increased adapts reality to suit its own needs on beer to combat the influx of sales and SoRAD (Alcohol Po- and not the opposite. If I was a German bottles. So it is possible litical research institute) felt that school teacher - like Maria Lars- to achieve positive results through things the winds had veered. Nev- son- I would have given her an F reducing alcohol taxes if you do it ertheless both Anitra Steen and as minister responsible for alco- in combination with information. SoRad were dependent upon the hol politics. She has had a whole Even if sales thereafter should in- Governments good will. So eve- administration period to achieve crease temporarily like in Finland rything was peace and light. The something worthwhile and has when they carried a similar action. contraband traders shut up shop missed her chance. There’s much to be won in the and the kids stopped drinking? Unfortunately it’s become ap- long run by throttling the profit- No-not really. Things were just as parent that she has large gaps in ability in illegal trading. It would bad as before. her knowledge of Swedish and mean that the most vulnerable But the SystemBolaget´s sales in- International alcohol politics. The would suddenly be without their creased- which is not the same thing Christian Democrats had a poli- alcohol suppliers. This is of course as the illicit trade diminished. cy question for a very long time, highly desirable. Now we are no- There was a time when that ac- which they took with them into ticing an increasing trend towards tually was the case but that was government. They disregarded the juvenile drunkenness in Sweden. down a weak exchange rate for reality of what the world looked Will Maria Larsson -if she’s still at the Swedish crown. No, the cause like and that the illegal alcohol her post as minister- continue to was probably that the Swedish market continued to flourish. navigate a course that is not tunes consumers traveled over to Ger- Certainly high prices docurtail into reality? Well, unfortunately many and legally purchased al- commerce to a certain extent. But there is a danger that it will be cohol. The illegitimate trade was if legal market is the only one with ….according to the latest election still very profitable and continues h prices and the illegal market en- manifesto. 46 “Det här är Stockholms motsvarighet till Osteria Verona på Piazza Erbe fast listan på Primewinebar är bättre.” www.amaroneguiden.se Primewinebar Östermalmstorg 5, Stockholm wwww.primewinebar.se 47