Italian Travel Sketches &C., Translated by Elizabeth A. Sharp, from The

THE SCOTT LIBRARY, ITALIAN TRAVEL SKETCHES, &C. ITALIAN TRAVEL SKETCHES, &c, BY HEINRICH HEINE. TRANS- LATED BY ELIZABETH A. SHARP. From the Original With Prefatory Note from the French of Theophile Gautier. London: Walter Scott, Ltd., 24 Warwick Lane, Paternoster Row, 23,/t CONTENTS. ITALIAN TRAVEL SKETCHES : PAGE THE JOURNEY FROM MUNICH TO GENOA . 3 THE TOWN OF LUCCA . IOO LATER NEWS . .165 CONCLUSION . .168 THE TEA-PARTY . .173 THE FRENCH STAGE : CONFIDENTIAL LETTERS ADDRESSED TO M. AUGUST LEWALD. I. ERNST RAUPACH . .176 II. GERMAN AND FRENCH COMEDY . .185 III. PASSION IN FRENCH TRAGEDY . 193 IV. THE INFLUENCE OF POLITICAL LIFE ON THE TRAGIC DRAMA IN FRANCE . 2OO V. THE IMPORTANCE OF NAPOLEON FOR THE FRENCH STAGE .... 2OQ VI. ALEXANDRE DUMAS AND VICTOR HUGO . 2l8 VII. COMEDY IN ENGLAND, FRANCE, AND GER- MANY ...... 228 VIII. THE STAGE -POETS OF THE BOULEVARDS THEATRES ..... 236 APPENDIX: GEORGE SAND . .244 NOTE. IT has been thought advisable to omit from this volume the second part of the Italienische Reisebilder; and, as of more general interest, to add the hitherto untranslated The French Stage: Confidential Letters addressed to M. August Lewald. PREFATORY STUDY ON HEINRICH HEINE. BY THEOPHILE GAUTIER. THE last time that I saw Heinrich Heine was a few weeks before his death ; I had to write a short notice for the re-issue of his works. He lay on the bed where, accord- ing to the doctors, a slight indisposition first held him, but whence he had not been able to rise therefrom for eight years. One was always sure of finding him, as he himself used to say; yet, little by little, solitude encom- passed him more and more; hence his exclamation to Berlioz, on the occasion of an unexpected visit : "You " come to see me ! you are as original as ever ! It was not that he was less loved or less admired, but life entices away with it the most faithful hearts, in spite of themselves: only a mother or a wife would never abandon so persistent a death-agony. Human eyes cannot, without turning aside, contemplate the sight of suffering for too of long a time. Goddesses themselves grow weary it, and the three thousand Oceanides who went to console Prometheus on his Caucasian cross returned therefrom in the evening. When my sight had accustomed itself to the penumbra which surrounded him, for a very bright daylight would viii PREFA TOR Y STUD Y ON HEINE. have hurt his almost faded sight, I perceived and sat down in an arm-chair by the side of his bedridden couch. The poet, with obvious effort, stretched to me a soft little hand, thin, nerveless, and white as a wafer, the hand of an invalid, sheltered from the influence of the open air, that has touched nothing, not even a pen, for years; never were the hardest ossicles of death gloved with a skin more suave, more unctuous, more satin-like, more polished. Fever, in default of life, infused some warmth his I shiver into it, yet at touch experienced a slight as though I had come in contact with the hand of a being who no longer pertained to earth. With his other hand, in order to see me, he had raised the paralysed lid of the eye which still afforded him a confused perception of objects and enabled him to discern a ray of sunlight as through black gauze. After a few exchanged sentences, when he knew the motive of " he said to not too my coming, me, Do pity me much ; the vignette of the Revue des Deux Mondes^ in which I am represented emaciated and with hanging head like a Christ of Morales, has already moved the sensibilities of good people too much in my favour. I do not like that are too faithful I as portraits ; want to be beautified, pretty women are painted. You knew me when I was and substitute old self for this young flourishing ; my piteous effigy." In truth, the Heinrich Heine to whom I had been presented in 183-, a short time after his arrival in Paris, in no wise resembled him who now was stretched before my eyes, moveless as a corpse which awaits its consignment to the coffin. He was a fine man of thirty-five or thirty-six years, PREFA TOR Y STUD Y ON HEINE. ix with of every appearance robust health ; one would have said a German Apollo, to see his high white forehead, pure as a marble table, which was shadowed with great masses of brown hair. His blue eyes sparkled with his full light and inspiration ; round cheeks, grace- ful in contour, were not of the tottering romantic lividness so fashionable at that date. On the contrary, roses ruddy bloomed classically on them ; a slight Hebraic curve interfered, without altering its purity, with the intention which his of nose had had being Greek ; his harmonious lips, "paired like two fine rhymes," to use one of his phrases, had a charming expression when in repose ; but when he spoke their red bow shot out sharp and barbed arrows, sarcastic darts which never in for failed their aim ; no one was ever more cruel to stupidity. To the divine smile of Apollo succeeded the leer of the satyr. A slight pagan embonpoint^ which was expiated later on by a truly Christian emaciation, rounded the lines of his form he neither ; wore beard, nor moustache, not nor whiskers ; he did smoke nor drink beer, and, like Goethe, even had a horror of these things. He was then in the midst of his Hegelian ardour. If it was repugnant to him to believe that God makes himself man, he had no in that man had made himself difficulty admitting god ; and he conducted himself accordingly. Let him speak himself concerning this splendid intellectual intoxication : "I myself was the living law of morals, I was impec- I was incarnate the cable, purity ; most compromised of Magdalens were purified by the flames of my ardour, and became virgins in my arms : these restorations to virginity went well-nigh at times, it is true, towards exhausting x PREFA TOR Y STUD Y ON HETNE. my holy strength. I was all love, and wholly exempt from hatred. I no longer revenged myself on my enemies; for I recognised no enemies vis-a-vis to my divine person, but only miscreants; the wrong they did me was sacrilege, as the injuries they said of me were so many blasphemies. From time to time it was necessary to punish such impieties, but it was a divine chastisement which struck the sinner, not the vengeance of human rancour. Neither did I, as regards myself, acknowledge any friends, but many faithful believers, and I did them much good. The expenses of being a god, who cannot be niggardly and who controls neither his purse nor his body, are enormous. In order to fulfil this splendid profession, he must above all things be dowered with much money and much fine it was the health ; now, one morning end of the month of February 1848 these two things failed me, and my divinity was so shaken that it fell miserably to pieces." I saw much of Heine during this divine period. He was a charming god, malicious as a devil, and a good fellow, whatever may have been said about him. Whether he regarded me as a friend or a believer mattered not to me, provided I was able to enjoy his brilliant conver- if was with his and his sation ; for, he prodigal money health, he was still more so with his wit. Although he knew French very well, he amused himself sometimes by disguising his sarcasms with a strong Teutonic pronun- ciation, which, in order to be reproduced, would need the strange onomatopoeia with which Balzac, in imitates the uncouth of his Comcdie Humainet phrases Baron du Nucinger. The comic effect was then PREFA TOR Y STUD Y ON HEINE. xi irresistible; it was that of Aristophanes in the guise of Eulenspiegel. his A sort of joyous strength mingled with lyricism ; and if the light of the German moon silvered the one side of his physiognomy, the gay sun of France gilded the other. No other writer has had, at the same time, so much poetry and so much wit, two things which usually as to that nervous destroy one another ; and sensibility which is the charm of LIntermezzo^ of Tambour Legrand, of The Baths of Lucca, and of so many other pages of the Reisebilder^ he hid it in ordinary life with an exquisite modesty, and stopped with a bon-mot the tear which would otherwise have fallen. His dress, though with no pretension to dandyism, was more cared for than is usual with literary men, with whom a certain negligence spoils the fastidious grace of luxury. The various apartments which he inhabited had little of what is to-day called the artistic cachet that is to say, they were not encumbered with carved cupboards, paintings, statuettes, and other bric-b-brac curiosities, but, on the contrary, denoted simply a comfortable bourgeois abode, and the inmate's obvious intention of avoiding eccentricity. A beautiful portrait of a woman by Lae'm- lein, representing the Juliet of whom the poet speaks in the opening of Atta- Troll, is the only work of art that I remember to have seen there. In order to re-establish his tottering divinity, Heine went for the bathing season to Cauterets. There he composed that strange poem in which a wolf is the hero, and where- in the most grotesque humour mingles with the most ideal poetry.

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