HERITAGE Rediscovering LALBAGH

THE BANDSTAND AT LALBAGH, built around 150 years ago, was the early location of the flower shows. Behind the bandstand is a towering Christmas tree (Araucaria columnaris) that can be seen from any part of the garden.

101 F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 V.K. Thiruvady’s book on Lalbagh, arguably one of India’s best public gardens, provides an evocative account of this fantastic arboreal world in Bengaluru and comprehensively traces its history from its early days.

Text by VIKHAR AHMED SAYEED and photographs by K. MURALI KUMAR

FOR a long period in its modern history, Bengaluru was known by the touristy moniker “Garden City” as verdant patches of greenery enveloped its fledgling urbanity. Little traffic plied on its long stretches of tree- lined promenades, which were ubiquitous, and residents were proud of their well-maintained home gardens, which evoked a salubrious feeling among visitors who came from hotter climes. Bengaluru’s primary selling point has always been its pleasant weather, and it was because of this and its extensive network of public parks and the toddling pace of life its residents led that Karnataka’s capital city was also alluringly, but tritely, known as a “pensioner’s paradise”. Over the past few decades, as Bengaluru exploded into a megalopolis and acquired the glitzy honorific of India’s “Silicon City”, its dated appellations have fallen out of use, but several public parks, big and small, still straddle the city’s busy boulevards, harking back to an era when Bengaluru was known for its greenery. Of the many green spaces in the city, the two large public gardens of

THE GLASS HOUSE AT LALBAGH was completed in 1889 and was meant to be a miniature version of the Crystal DURING THE Republic Day Cubbon Park and Lalbagh stand out and continue to hectare) Lalbagh, which lies just a few kilometres away, Palace in Hyde Park, . It is the site for the annual Lalbagh Flower Show 2020, in the remain on tourists’ itineraries apart from being valuable has a greater claim to being the first garden of the city as Lalbagh flower show. Glass House of Lalbagh on January carbon sinks for the city’s soaring air pollution, a result of its history predates that of Cubbon Park by more than a 17, 2020. (Left) The Glass House is the frenetic activities of its 10 million–plus population. century. the venue of the annual flower While the colonial-era Cubbon Park (no one refers to According to Vijay R. Thiruvady, author of the re- show. It was completed in 1889 and it by its official name, which is Sri Chamarajendra Park) cently published Lalbagh: Sultans’ Garden to Public was meant to be a miniature version is more centrally located as it swaddles the High Court of Park, Lalbagh, or Red Garden, is one of India’s best of the Crystal Palace in Hyde Park, Karnataka and lies opposite Vidhana Soudha, the seat of public gardens as “it has the most diverse collection of London. the State government, the 240-acre (one acre is 0.4 trees and plants in the country from all over the world

F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 102 103 F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 THE YELLOW TRUMPETBUSH (Tecoma stans) THE SPECTACULAR FLOWERS of the pink poui THE MYSORE TRUMPETVINE (Thungbergia mysorensis) is a profusely flowering creeper. is a flowering shrub native to South America. (Tabebuia rosea) tree, which was originally native to South Its bright yellow flowers are full of nectar and America. This tree sheds all its leaves in spring, and for attract bees. around 10 days, its flowers blossom in a glorious outburst.

THE FLOWER OF THE GOLDEN THE SPIKY FLOWER of the crimson bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus) shrub, CHALICE VINE (Solandra which is native to Australia. The stamens, when packed together, resemble a FLOWERS BELONGING TO THE ALPINIA GENUS of plants, with their glass-like, translucent petals. These flowering maxima) plant, which is endemic bottlebrush. Bees can be found hovering around its flowers, which are full of plants are native to the Philippines and Taiwan. to Brazil. nectar.

F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 104 105 F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 A BANYAN STRANGLER FIG of the Ficus genus, which sprouts from a seed the size of a pinhead most probably dropped by a passing bird. The strangler draws nourishment from its host, in this case a palm tree, throttling it in the process.

THE LAST REMAINING MANGO TREE dating back to Tipu Sultan’s era. This tree is the pride of Lalbagh and still produces up to a tonne of mangoes every two years.

F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 106 107 F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 A CLUMP OF AFRICAN JUNIPER TREES and includes flora from tropical, equatorial and temper- (Juniperus procera) planted during Gustav ate regions”. In his book, the self-trained botanist and Hermann Krumbiegel’s tenure as historian has provided an evocative account of the story Superintendent of Lalbagh. The African juniper of Lalbagh that comprehensively traces the garden’s his- is the only one of the 45 juniper species to be tory from its early days. found in the southern hemisphere. Thiruvady, who is almost 80, was speaking to Front- line as he led this correspondent on one of his Lalbagh walks, which have become renowned in Bengaluru over the past 16 years. The corporate consultant began to conduct these walks in 2005 and, on most weekend mornings since then, could be found leading a motley group of 15 to 30 people through tree-lined trails in the garden while explaining the fantastic arboreal world that is Lalbagh. Thiruvady had to cease his weekend sojourns to the park, which he loves passionately, early last year after he suffered a stroke that left him deaf in one ear. The COVID-19 pandemic also ensured that he was kept away from his beloved Lalbagh since his recovery. Stepping into the garden after this long absence, Thiruvady kept glancing around restlessly as he tried to absorb the beauty of the garden. The walk began at the foot of the “Lalbagh rock”, as Thiruvady referred to the small granite hill crowned by one of the four boundary towers erected by Kempegowda I (1510-69), who is often identified as the founder of Bengaluru. Thiruvady was easily recognisable by his fe- dora, which looked similar to the one worn by Indiana Jones. He leaned on his colourful walking stick and explained the significance of the “rock” in the planet’s early geological history. What lay in front of us was a Gneiss Complex, and according to Lalbagh, “this rocky

VIJAY R. THIRUVADY, the author of “Lalbagh: Sultans’ Gardens to Public Park”. (Left) The book ( Environment Trust, Bengaluru, 2020; Rs.750) contains rare botanical illustrations from the mid 19th century.

F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 108 109 F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 plateau rafted on to the lithosphere of the earth and A MANGO TREE from Tipu Sultan’s era felled a few years A BUDDHA STATUE carved out of a fallen eucalyptus tree stabilised in its present form” around 3.5 billion years ago ago. A local sculptor fashioned a Ganesha, octopuses and trunk and appropriately placed under a massive peepal, or after the earth’s tectonic plates moved around like coins ammonites from the trunk. bodhi, tree (Ficus religiosa). The Buddha attained on a carrom board over millions of years. Thus, because enlightenment under a peepal tree. of its importance, the hill was declared a National Geolo- garden into what forms the core of modern Lalbagh. Tipu gical Monument in 1975. even sourced seeds and saplings from places as far away After Heyne’s tenure, the upkeep of the garden be- According to Thiruvady, the finding of the “stone as Cape Town in South Africa. Thiruvady records in came the responsibility of Captain Wilbert Waugh, who slabs, referred to as Nishidhikallus and Virakallus” is Lalbagh that Francis Buchanan-Hamilton, who sur- was “given the designation of Official Keeper of Lalbagh”. evidence that Jain and Hindu communities lived in the veyed Tipu’s territory after the his death at the hands of During Waugh’s helming of the garden between 1807 area around Lalbagh, but the origins of the garden can be the British in 1799, visited the garden and wrote: “I and 1819, “he introduced plants, fruits and vegetables traced to the reign of Kempegowda, who laid out a flower visited the gardens made by the late Mussulman princes, from Europe and China. Waugh introduced fruit trees, garden “in 1537 with a view to growing flowers for wor- Hyder and Tippoo. They are extensive and divided into which included apricots, peaches and apples and trees of shipping in temples”. The boundary tower has been re- square plots, separated by walks, the sides of which are interest to a botanical garden, namely junipers, oaks and furbished “and made to look like a Hindu mantapa”, but ornamented with fine cypress trees.” thujas.” William Munro, another army man, also came to when it was originally built, it marked the southern A living remnant of this connection with the Mysore ONE OF THE MANY CENTURIES-OLD NANDI statues be in charge of the garden and made observations such as border of Bengaluru. rulers is present to this day: Thiruvady pointed out a found in Lalbagh. This statue is located at the base of a “Mauritius sugarcane grew well” and “sheep dung is the giant mango tree that Tipu Sultan purportedly planted in rain tree (Samanea saman) near the Lalbagh rock. best manure by far”. Thiruvady notes in Lalbagh that the L ALBAGH BESTOWED ON HYDER ALI the early 1790s. “Some mango trees were planted during “cultivation of hops, mulberry and the production of silk In the 18th century, Lalbagh, which was called Kempu- Tipu’s time in Lalbagh, and this is the only one that still ish settlement of Tranquebar (modern Tharangambadi), was introduced under his [Munro’s] watch”. thotha (meaning “Red Garden” in Kannada) at the time, remains,” Thiruvady said, looking wistfully up at the was put in charge of the garden. Under Heyne, the focus Thiruvady writes that Lalbagh owes a lot to Dr H.F.C. came to Hyder Ali as part of a jagir (land grant) that was clumps of wavy leaves that generously hung from the was on the “cultivation of economically useful plants, the Cleghorn, who was “a trained professional surgeon bestowed on him. Thiruvady writes that Hyder “brought tree. produce of which would generate revenues to the EIC”. turned into a forester, botanist, administrator, publicist in a talented and skilled community of agricultural la- After the British advent in Mysore, the control of the With Heyne, modern also came to Mysore, and and philanthropist…” whose advice Sir Mark Cubbon, bourers and gardeners, the Tigalas from [present-day] sultan’s garden passed to the (EIC), “he was required to make drawings, particularly of rare the Chief Commissioner of Mysore, sought on the setting Tamil Nadu, to work in these gardens”. Hyder and his and in 1800, a German missionary called Benjamin plants, with scientific descriptions and collections of up of a horticultural garden in 1856. Cleghorn is also the son, Tipu Sultan, both avid horticulturists, expanded the Heyne, who came to the EIC’s employment via the Dan- specimens”. person who named the garden “Lalbagh” and “was en-

F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 110 111 F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 THE GONI MARA (Ficus mysorensis). This particular specimen of the tree in Lalbagh has a spread THE TRAVELLER’S PALM (Ravenala THE TALIPOT PALM (Corypha umbraculifera) is found in of over 160 feet and has just shed its leaves. The tree was named by Benjamin Heyne, an early madagascariensis) is a flowering tree originally the evergreen forests of Karnataka. Throughout Indian administrator of the garden. from Madagascar where it is pollinated by lemurs. history, the dried fronds of this tree were used for writing on. tirely responsible for putting Lalbagh on a steady path were present in Lalbagh. He also began organising flower diverse plants at Lalbagh during Cameron’s tenure after the ups and downs in its management in the past”. shows at Lalbagh, a tradition that continues to this day. showed that the garden had 3,222 plant species, marking Thiruvady has sourced for his book rare botanical illus- Many of the exotic plant species planted at the time a clear increase from the period of New’s tenure. (This trations made during Cleghorn’s time. A south Indian survive in Lalbagh even now. By this time, the garden had seems to have been Lalbagh’s peak period of botanical artist named Cheluviah Raju executed 675 of them. regular visitors, and Thiruvady records that between variety as a 2001 survey put the number of plant species There were others such as “Rungiah” and “Govindoo”, 1863 and 1864, “12,183 carriages and 6,003 equestrians at only 793.) and Thiruvady, on the basis of his research, speculates in entered the park. Indians also visited the park in large The German-born and Kew-trained gardener Gustav Lalbagh: “In the 1830s, Tanjore (Thanjavur) and Trichi- numbers, especially on festival days.” Hermann Krumbiegel became the Superintendent of nopoly (Tiruchirappalli) were the most likely places Walking in Lalbagh, Thiruvady pointed to a Christ- Lalbagh in 1908 after having worked in the princely state where botanical illustrators could have come from as mas tree (Araucaria columnaris) that towered over all of Baroda for 14 years, and “in contrast with Cameron, these were the centres of South Indian religious art.” the other trees and could be seen from several parts of the was multifaceted and successfully spread his energies garden. When New’s 1861 survey was done, this tree was across garden architecture and landscaping, pomology K EW-TRAINED GARDNERS already listed, which means that it had been planted and vegetables, plant propagation, agriculture and town Cleghorn introduced a certain professionalism in the before then. “This tree is originally a native of New planning”. Krumbiegel focussed his energies on sourcing management of the garden and initiated the tradition of Caledonia and is the height of a 13-storey building. This fruit-bearing trees from “Australia, South Africa, Califor- appointing gardeners trained at the Royal Botanical Gar- could well be the tallest tree in south India,” Thiruvady nia and the Philippines as the places from where most dens in Kew, London, as superintendents of Lalbagh. contended. A more down-to-earth Araucaria specimen suitable seeds and saplings could be procured for plant- From the appointment of William New, who arrived in stood nearby and the tips of its overlaid leaves stung like THE FRUIT OF THE ELEPHANT APPLE (Dillenia ing in Mysore”. Most of the plant species planted during Bangalore (now Bengaluru) in April 1858 and was the needles. John Cameron, who took over as Superintend- indica) tree, which is native to India. This tree flourishes Krumbiegel’s time came from Australia. first Kew-trained gardener, “six Kew-trained gardeners ent in 1874 and remained in this post for 34 years, should along waterbodies and is a favourite of elephants. Dillenia As Thiruvady walked towards the Glass House, the helmed the garden”. Modern Lalbagh is the result of be credited with laying the foundation of modern Lal- indica has the honour of being named by Carl Linnaeus, divine fragrance of the flowers of the sampige tree these professional gardeners. bagh. The massive rain trees (Samanea saman) that the father of taxonomy. (Michelia champaca) gently wafted towards him. As soon as New arrived in the city, he “organised the stand like Brobdingnagian sentinels in Lalbagh allowing Breathing in this alluring scent, Thiruvady pointed out introduction and exchange of plants with other botanical only slivers of sunlight to hit the ground beneath them seeds, saplings and trees with botanical gardens world- the semicircular row of African juniper trees (Juniperus institutions in India and elsewhere. He received apples, date to Cameron’s era when they were planted here and wide while also establishing a zoo.” A 1890-91 report lists procera) that were planted in 1910 during Krumbiegel’s peaches, vines, lemons and oranges from Ooty [Ud- in different parts of Bengaluru. 32 botanical parks around the world that received seeds era. “These trees are native to the Ethiopian highlands,” agamandalam], a set of spice plants from from Lalbagh, which shows how Cameron had expanded said Thiruvady. and cases of plants from North Africa, Tenerife, Madeira I NTERNATIONAL EXCHANGE NETWORK the international exchange network of Lalbagh. Recog- Krumbiegel was an expert landscape and ornamental and Azores in addition to seeds received from Melbourne Thiruvady sums up Cameron’s contribution thus: “He nising the need for a permanent structure for the flower gardener and was also responsible for the garden designs and Adelaide in Australia.” largely focussed on improvements and development in shows that had become wildly popular by this time, at the Indian Institute of Science in Bengaluru, the Brin- In 1861, New listed all the 1,073 plant species that botany and horticulture in Lalbagh itself and exchanging Cameron built the Glass House in 1889. A survey of the davan Gardens in Mysuru and Jubilee Park in Jamshed-

F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 112 113 F RONTLINE . A PRIL 23, 2021 THE 3.5-BILLION-YEAR-OLD LALBAGH ROCK crowned by Kempegowda’s tower, erected in 1537. This granite hill was declared a National Geological Monument in 1975.

pur (Jharkhand) apart from making substantial ated nurseries, when there were only four such farms contributions to the landscape of Lalbagh. Krumbiegel’s when he started out”. Marigowda’s efforts at spreading services for the princely state of Mysore were marred by horticultural knowledge throughout the State did not his internment during the World Wars because of his mean that he ignored Lalbagh. It was during his tenure German provenance that remains a malevolent footnote that the premier garden was expanded from 120 acres to in the last 63 years of his life. After he retired in 1932, he 240 acres, its present extent. Several national and inter- continued to live in Bengaluru until his death in 1956. national personages visited Lalbagh during Marigowda’s The first Indian to be appointed as Superintendent of time, and the book has a memorable picture of him with the Government Gardens in the Mysore State was H.C. Queen Elizabeth II in 1961. Javaraya, who “continued the landscaping of Lalbagh” Taking a break from the more than three-hour walk, and “added an east wing” to the Glass House, “which Thiruvady sat down on a bench thoughtfully placed in made the structure aesthetically more attractive from all front of a pink poui tree (a Tabebuia species) that was at directions”. Apart from this, he also made other contribu- the peak of its splendour. This tree sheds all its leaves in tions to structures at Lalbagh. After his retirement, he spring, and for around 10 days, its flowers blossom in a was employed by the Nawab of Bhopal in whose princely glorious outburst that make it look like delectable cotton state he was responsible for the development of parks candy from afar. The sweet sounds of barbettes hovering and royal gardens. in the nearby trees echoed around Thiruvady. As he took a well-deserved gulp of water, the chronicler of Lalbagh P OST-INDEPENDENT INDIA said: “Look at this beautiful world of nature that sur- In 1951, M.H. Marigowda became the Superintendent of rounds us. I can sit here for the whole day right in front of Government Gardens. Like his five predecessors, he had this Tabebuia.” Asked about his vision for the future of also trained at Kew Gardens. As Thiruvady writes in Lalbagh, Thiruvady said: “Lalbagh must necessarily Lalbagh: “Marigowda made it his mission to address the draw on its strengths as a botanical garden while pre- needs of the people of Karnataka and of horticulturists serving its essence as a layered heritage garden.” through the Departments of Horticulture and Agricul- Thiruvady’s implication was clear: for Lalbagh to remain ture; horticulture was to be no longer Lalbagh centric…. botanically significant, its administrators should focus Knowledge accumulated and concentrated in Lalbagh on its core identity as a repository of diverse plant species for over a century has to be dispersed to every single from around the world rather than move in the direction district and taluk in Karnataka.” By the time he retired in of other public parks with food courts, children’s play 1974, Marigowda had set up “over 400 farms and associ- areas and synthetic additions. २

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