DISCOVER ITALIA! RIGHT DOWN The Line Valentina Nicastro heads off the beaten track to the The Italian little-known Italian Trans-Siberian vintage railway Trans-Siberian or as long as I can and Molise along a path of 128 train line remember, I’ve always kilometres that was once part been fascinated by of the national railway network connects rail tracks and roaring and today is one of Italy’s most engines, so you can surprising tourist attractions. Sulmona, the Fimagine my excitement when the confetti capital search for unexplored trails and ENGINEERING MARVEL off-the-beaten-path places in my Officially opened on 18 September of Abruzzo, with homeland recently brought me 1897, the Italian Trans-Siberian aboard a special vintage train called train line connects Sulmona, the the lacemaking the ‘Italian Trans-Siberian’. confetti capital of Abruzzo, with centre of Isernia Snaking through an unspoiled the lacemaking centre of Isernia The Italian Trans- landscape of mountains, forests in Molise. It has always been in Molise Siberian railway and narrow gorges resembling the considered an engineering marvel, has been revived by a non-profi t legendary Moscow-Vladivostok owing to the outstanding technical organization called route (hence the name), this historic features that were developed to Le Rotaie train crosses the regions of Abruzzo enable travel through such an arduous landscape. The route encompasses 21 stations and runs through an impressive network of aqueducts, bridges and more than 50 tunnels, the longest of which measures 3,100 metres. After being completely destroyed during the Second World War, the line was reactivated in the 1960s, but was then gradually abandoned Images by Valentina Nicastro with the advent of high-speed trains. However, in recent years a group of friends with a passion for railways founded the non-profit organization Le Rotaie, with the aim of restoring the old carriages and bringing the line back to life. They also teamed up with Fondazione FS, the company that manages the Italian rail network, to include the train in the Timeless Tracks programme that preserves and promotes Italy’s most beautiful historic train lines. The original steam locomotive has been replaced by a diesel engine, but the magic of the journey remains unchanged. The historic 50 ITALIA! November 2019 IT180.AbruzzoMoliseRailJourney.sg4.indd 50 23/09/2019 14:46pm DISCOVER ITALIA! November 2019 ITALIA! 51 IT180.AbruzzoMoliseRailJourney.sg4.indd 51 23/09/2019 14:47pm DISCOVER ITALIA! train departs from Sulmona 1 thematic itineraries, from wine and ride ahead! In each wagon there are at 328m above sea level and reaches food fairs to Christmas markets. The representatives of Le Rotaie who an altitude of 1,268m at the station return journey takes an average of eagerly talk us through the history of Rivisondoli-Pescocostanzo eight hours and includes stops for and geography of the line, while the before starting its descent towards exploring the historic and culinary folk musicians keep the atmosphere Isernia – which makes this little delights of the area. cheerful, drawing passengers into station serving the two villages their performances. of Rivisondoli and Pescocostanzo, A JOURNEY BACK IN TIME Verdant grazing lands and near the border between Abruzzo When I arrive at the train station mountainous sceneries pass by The route rises and Molise, the point at which this early on Sunday morning, the Italian the windows, and after about one to an altitude becomes the second highest railway Trans-Siberian train is proudly hour it’s time for the first stop at of 1,268 metres in Italy, after the one that crosses standing on track 1, waiting for Palena 2 , a little village immersed at Rivisondoli- the Brenner Pass. passengers with its five big brown in the Majella National Park. At Pescocostanzo, which makes this The train runs every Sunday, all carriages. Greenish-gold velvet the station there are a bunch of the second highest year round and, depending on the curtains hang in the windows and colourful stalls selling artisanal railway line in Italy season, the trip takes on different allow glimpses of the shiny wooden benches running along both sides of the wagon, facing each other. I’m immediately I hop on the train accompanied 1 SULMONA by the traditional songs played transported back by three folk musicians who will be our travel companions for the entire trip. Once inside, I‘m to the early 1900s 2 PALENA immediately transported back to crafts and delicious local snacks and the atmospheres of the early 1900s, I cannot resist a fragrant deep-fried when travel wasn’t simply a way to pizza with olives. The centre of get somewhere, it was a true event. the village is a little further away, The interiors are stunning and so I take a walk near the station to RIVISONDOLI-PESCOCOSTANZO 3 retain historic features like original admire the stunning high plateau 4 ROCCARASO brake pads, old prints and antique system known as Altipiani Maggiori CAPRACOTTA 6 lighting. The vintage wagons are before continuing the trip. Sadly the divided into a standard class with weather is not great, but somehow CASTEL DI SANGRO wooden benches and a first-class this makes the spectacular landscape 5 featuring red padded armchairs. in front of me even more dramatic. VASTOGIRARDI 7 At 8:45am sharp the whistle of Back on the train, we soon the train conductor kick-starts the reach the highest altitude at the CAROVILLI 8 adventure and I make my way to Rivisondoli-Pescocostanzo station 3 the window seat I carefully selected and slowly continue down through during booking, ready to enjoy Roccaraso 4 , Castel di Sangro 5 the show. After some initial gentle and Capracotta 6 – the station that curves, the urban contours slowly officially marks our entry into the fade and I catch sight of the majestic region of Molise. Then we continue CARPINONE 9 mountains and viaducts we’ll soon through Vastogirardi 7 before cross. I cannot help but smile at the stopping at Carovilli 8 . This is an Map data © 2019 Google thought of the extraordinary train area renowned for the production 52 ITALIA! November 2019 IT180.AbruzzoMoliseRailJourney.sg4.indd 52 23/09/2019 14:46pm After some initial gentle curves, the urban contours slowly fade and I catch sight of the majestic mountains and viaducts we’ll soon cross The train is unusual for a number of reasons, not least that you may fi nd you are accompanied by a trio of folk musicians to keep you entertained for the journey November 2019 ITALIA! 53 IT180.AbruzzoMoliseRailJourney.sg4.indd 53 23/09/2019 14:47pm DISCOVER ITALIA! of excellent caciocavallo cheese and the 11th-century Caldora Castle truffles, and passengers can choose sitting on top of a rocky spur. whether to disembark and explore Its cobbled alleyways are a true the surroundings or to continue the delight to explore and open onto journey to the final destination. I’m fascinating corners that are every tempted, but then I decide to stay photographer’s dream, from ancient on board to see how the landscape stone houses to colourful murals. evolves. I just can’t take my eyes off For the more adventurous traveller, the window. there is the possibility here to join one of the 4x4 off-road excursions organized by Molise Explorer Carpinone’s cobbled (www.moliseexplorer.com) along the Carpino river, in the countryside alleyways are a true around the village. NEWSPAPER CLIPPINGS delight to explore Locals are really friendly and eager We continue the journey to exchange a few words, and before through forests and tratturi (the I realise it I’m sitting at the table of old pastoral trails), with views over a bar with a lovely lady showing me historic villages like Pescolanciano, old newspaper clippings about the with its medieval castle perched on history of the Trans-Siberian train top of a rocky spur, and the ancient and how the line was completely hamlet of Pesche, before reaching abandoned for years, leaving these Carpinone 9 , the last stop on this remote communities completely cut Sunday’s itinerary. We’ll stay here out. Now, that’s exactly why I love for the rest of the afternoon to travelling off the beaten path! explore the village before returning At 5pm the train is ready to to Sulmona. depart for the journey back to The live music and stalls at Sulmona. I cosy up in my seat, the back of the station offer a nice I’m tired but my eyes refuse to welcome despite the pouring rain. close, there’s a whole return journey I’m determined not to let the rain to follow from the window. After ruin this fantastic adventure, so a couple of technical stops along I grab a sandwich with cured meat the way, we arrive in Sulmona at and pecorino cheese followed by a 8:00pm. It’s been a long day, but glass of chilled peaches soaked in red what an adventure! The Italian wine (aka “drunken peaches”) to fuel Trans-Siberian train is truly a little up on before setting off to visit the jewel in Italy, and one that perfectly historical centre. exemplifies the old adage that travel Carpinone is a charming, sleepy is not about the destination, but village guarded by the remains of the journey itself. WHERE TO STAY ➤ B&B Susi (www.bbsusi.it) is a great base, being only steps from Sulmona station. Rooms are basic and bathrooms are shared, but the lovely owners keep them spotless, going above and beyond to accommodate any needs. If you prefer something a little more glamorous, B&B Carpinone, at the Suite Salini (www.palazzosalini.com) in end of the line, is the town centre is another great place.