Understanding Place the History and Character of Newborough
Understanding Place The History and Character of Newborough
Ymddiriedolaeth Archaeolegol Gwynedd Gwynedd Archaeological Trust UNDERSTANDING PLACE: THE HISTORY AND CHARACTER OF NEWBOROUGH
1. INTRODUCTION Newborough is a large Anglesey village, and a former medieval borough. This report summarises the evidence collected through a project which collated the history and archaeology of Newborough, and recorded the character RIWKHEXLOGLQJVDQGVWUHHWVZKLFKGH¿QHWKHVHWWOHPHQW&KDUDFWHULVDWLRQLVDXVHIXOWHFKQLTXHIRUXQGHUVWDQGLQJ the history and character of a settlement, and this clearer understanding of the past helps manage the future of the settlement. The work was largely carried out by volunteers, supervised by archaeologists from Gwynedd Archaeological Trust. The recording took place between July 2017 and February 2018.
2. PHYSICAL SETTING 1HZERURXJKLVVLWXDWHGLQWKHVRXWKZHVWHUQFRUQHURI$QJOHVH\ ¿JXUH 7KHVHDOLHVNPVRXWKZHVWRIWKH village centre and the Malltraeth Estuary is 2km to the north-west. The coast is bounded by a broad swathe of dunes, which forms Newborough Warren. The southern part of these dunes is still an active dune system, now a 1DWLRQDO1DWXUH5HVHUYHDQGVXSSRUWLQJDULFKÀRUD%HWZHHQ DQG WKHQRUWKHUQSDUWRIWKHGXQHVZDV SODQWHGZLWK&RUVLFDQSLQHIRUWLPEHUDQGWRSURWHFWWKHYLOODJHIURPZLQGEORZQVDQG 1DWXUDO5HVRXUFHV:DOHV ZHEVLWH The plantation formed Newborough Forest, and the dunes here have been stabilised by the trees, though dune plants do still survive under the trees in places. The long beach is very popular with visitors, tourists and locals alike, and Newborough Forest is now extensively used for recreation; including walking, cycling and horse riding.
7KHYLOODJHLVORFDWHGRQWKHWRSRIDORZULGJHZKLFKULVHVIURPDERXW2'WRDKLJKSRLQWRIP2'7KLV gives the village a southern aspect and good views of the mountains of Snowdonia across the Menai Strait. The underlying bedrock is schist, a metamorphic rock, with glacial deposits overlying it and large areas of windblown VDQGQHDUWKHFRDVW *HRORJ\RI%ULWDLQ9LHZHU 7KHIDUPODQGVXUURXQGLQJWKHYLOODJHLVFXUUHQWO\XQGHULPSURYHG pasture and used largely for sheep, but was previously extensively used for arable cultivation.
3. HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT General History %\WKHth century the main unit for administration in the Kingdom of Gwynedd was the commote (cwmwd Anglesey was divided into six commotes. Each had a royal court (llys WKDWZDVWKHDGPLQLVWUDWLYHFHQWUHDQG where the Prince of Gwynedd stayed as he travelled around his kingdom. Rhosyr was the royal centre for the commote of Menai, with a llys and a township, the maerdref UHHYH¶VWRZQVKLS ZKHUHWKHERQGVPHQZKRIDUPHG WKH3ULQFH¶VHVWDWHOLYHG /RQJOH\ 7KHVLWHRIWKHllys, to the west of Newborough village, was excavated LQWKH VUHYHDOLQJDKDOOFKDPEHUDQGDQRWKHUODUJHEXLOGLQJDVZHOODVRWKHUVWUXFWXUHVLQFOXGLQJDEDNHKRXVH -RKQVWRQH SODWH 7KHVHWWOHPHQWDVVRFLDWHGZLWKWKHmaerdref has not been located with certainty.
Royal courts usually had a royal chapel and it is assumed that St Peter’s church originated as the royal chapel, explaining its position next to the llys. The present church GDWHV IURP WKH WK FHQWXU\ when the borough was established, but an 11th/12th century font indicates an Plate 1. Site of Llys Rhosyr presented for the public earlier building once stood here associated with the court. 7KHFKXUFKZDVH[WHQGHGLQWKHODWHthRUHDUO\thFHQWXU\ 5&$+0: SODWH
,QWKHthFHQWXU\/ODQIDHVLQWKHVRXWKHDVWRI$QJOHVH\ZDVWKHPDLQWUDGLQJFHQWUHRQWKHLVODQGEXWIURP (GZDUG,EXLOWKLVFDVWOHDQGWKHDGMDFHQWERURXJKDW%HDXPDULV/ODQIDHVPLJKWKDYHSURYHGDWKUHDWWRWKHVH so its population was moved across the island and a new borough was established for them on the royal lands of 5KRV\U -RKQVWRQH
7KHERURXJKRI1HZERURXJKZKLFKUHFHLYHGLWVFKDUWHULQ 6RXOVE\ ZDVODLGRXWWRJLYHHDFK burgess the same amount of property as they held in Llanfaes and it was carefully planned around a crossroads.
2 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 © Crown Copyright and database right 2018. Ordnance Survey 100021874. Welsh Government.
Llangaffo
68 68
B4421 67 67
Malltraeth Estuary
Bryn Felin 66 66
Newborough Dwyran A4080 Llys Rhosyr
65 65
Newborough Forest
64 64
Newborough Warren 63 Caernarfon
Ynys Llanddwyn
Llanddwyn Bay Menai Straits 62 62 Figure 1. Location and environment of Newborough
Abermenai Point SH 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 47 Each property had a house on the street front and a long narrow piece of land behind. These plots, known DVµEXUJDJH¶SORWVVWLOOGH¿QH many of the properties in 1HZERURXJK &DUU 6RXOVE\
The town was almost entirely Welsh, and welcomed Welsh poets including Dafydd ap Gwilym, who praised the town, its wine and its people Plate 2. St Peter’s Church &DUU $ZHHNO\ market was held on Tuesdays, and there were also several fairs each year. These served the tenantry of Menai, though the market became famous RYHUDPXFKZLGHUDUHDIRULWVFDWWOHDQGR[HQ 6RXOVE\ ,QWKHODWHUth century it was a thriving ERURXJKDQGHFRQRPLFDOO\VXFFHVVIXO7KLVZDVGHVSLWHWKHKDUGVKLSFDXVHGE\WKH*UHDW6WRUPRIth December ZKLFKFRYHUHGDODUJHDUHDRIDJULFXOWXUDOODQGZLWKVDQG$QRWKHUVWRUPLQ GHVWUR\HGPRUHODQG ZKLOVWLQWKHPLGIRXUWHHQWKFHQWXU\WKH%ODFN'HDWKFDXVHGDVHYHUHGHFOLQHLQWKHSRSXODWLRQRI$QJOHVH\ &DUU 'XULQJWKHXSULVLQJRI2ZDLQ*O\QGǒULQWKHHDUO\th century both the town of Newborough and the WRZQVKLSRI5KRV\UZHUHEDGO\GDPDJHGE\DWWDFNVIURPERWKVLGHV &DUU
,Q+HQU\9,,WUDQVIHUUHGWKHFRXQW\FRXUWVIURP%HDXPDULVWR1HZERURXJKUDLVLQJLWVSURVSHULW\DJDLQEXW WKLVZDVUHYHUVHGLQ DQGWKHWRZQEHJDQWRGHFOLQH 6RXOVE\ %\WKHHQGRIWKHth century 1HZERURXJKKDGORVWPXFKRILWVXUEDQFKDUDFWHUWKHZHHNO\PDUNHWZDVGLVFRQWLQXHGE\WKHHDUO\ th century 6RXOVE\ EXWDQQXDOIDLUVVWLOOFRQWLQXHG /HZLV 7UDYHOHUVZKRSDVVHGWKURXJKZHUHQRW complementary. In the late 18th century Thomas Pennant describes Newborough as “a place greatly fallen away IURPLWVDQWLHQWVSOHQGRU>VLF@´ 3HQQDQW DQGLQWKHHDUO\ th century Richard Fenton thought it ZDV³DZUHWFKHGSODFH´ )HQWRQ
6LQFHWKHth century, at least, marram grass (môrhesg ZDVXVHGLQ1HZERURXJKWRPDNHPDWVURSHVEDVNHWV DQGIDQF\JRRGV +XJKHV DQGWKLVZDVWKHPDLQLQGXVWU\RIWKHDUHDRWKHUWKDQDJULFXOWXUH7KHHQFORVXUH RIWKHFRPPRQODQGLQWKHHDUO\ th century led to the loss of rights to collect marram grass, hindering the LQGXVWU\ /HZLV ,Q WKHLQGXVWU\ZDVUHYLYHGZLWKWKHHVWDEOLVKPHQWRIWKH0DW0DNHUV¶$VVRFLDWLRQ and marram grass was woven in Newborough until Newborough Warren, the source of the marram grass, was FRPPDQGHHUHGE\WKH:DU0LQLVWU\LQ DQGXVHGDVDERPELQJUDQJHEHIRUHEHLQJWDNHQRYHUE\WKH)RUHVWU\ &RPPLVVLRQLQ +XJKHV
The Borough and the Town The borough of Newborough included not just the town but extensive lands around it as far as Abermenai Point, DVWKHERURXJKUDQWKHIHUU\DFURVVWKH6WUDLW3ODFHVPDUNLQJWKHERXQGDU\ZHUHUHFRUGHGE\+HQU\5RZODQGVLQ the early 18thFHQWXU\ 5RZODQGV DQGPRVWFDQVWLOOEHLGHQWL¿HGWKRXJKLQPDQ\SODFHVWKHH[DFW line of the boundary is unclear. Some of the boundary was followed by the parish boundary and some is marked by boundary stones.
7KHOLPLWRIWKHPHGLHYDOWRZQLVLQGLFDWHGE\WKHSUHVHQFHRIEXUJDJHSORWV ¿JXUH WKHRULJLQDOSORWVRIODQG allocated to the burgesses of the borough. These are seen as narrow strips of land and usually still have a house on WKHVWUHHWIURQWDJHDVWKH\ZRXOGKDYHGRQHLQWKHPHGLHYDOSHULRG2Q&KXUFK6WUHHWWKHWRZQSUREDEO\H[WHQGHG as far as Tyn’rallt on the northern side but no further than Tan Rofft on the southern side. There are burgage plots DORQJWKHQRUWKHDVWHUQVLGHRI&KDSHO6WUHHW7KHVRXWKZHVWHUQVLGHRI&KDSHO6WUHHWLVOHVVFOHDUEXWDOOWKH property boundaries resemble groups of two or three plots that have been merged, and the town probably extended down to Tyn y Goeden. Pendref Street has traces of burgage plots as far as Tyddyn Abercyn on the northern side, and Pendref must have been the limit of the town on the southern side. Malltraeth Street clearly had burgage plots RQERWKVLGHVRIWKHVWUHHWXSWRWKHFURVVURDGVZKHUHWKH% NQRZQKHUHDV/{Q7ZQWL FRPHVRIIWKHPDLQ street. Rowlands describes Y Plas or Plas Ucha as a house in the town and a marker on the boundary. The house ZDVRULJLQDOO\WRWKHQRUWKZHVWRI3HQ\%RQFWKRXJKGHPROLVKHGLQWKH V,WZRXOGKDYHPDUNHGWKHHGJH
420 425 Bryn-sinc
Site of Ysgol Bro Aberffraw 660 660
Bryn Awel Newborough Primary School
Tyn y Cae Erw Goch Ucheldre Stad Hen Ysgol Y Plas
Tyddyn Abercyn Pen y Bonc
MinfforddBoston TerraceLlain Cleddyf Tre Rhosyr Pengamfa Prichard Jones Lôn Twnti Hen Capel Pendref Institute Eglwys Bach Malltraeth Street Tithe barn
Pendref Street Llanerch
Rhouse Rhianfa
Tyn’y Lôn White Lion Tyn y Coed Sign KEY Coed Anna shed Cottage Cae Crwn Tyn yr Ardd Projected limit of the medieval town Bryn Goleu/ Sunny Cliffe Carrog House Bron Rallt/Awelon Tŷ Nant Chapel Street Rhenc Newydd
Church StreetYsgubor Ddu Môr a Mynydd Figure 2. The village with house and street names Moranedd Tyn’rallt mentioned in the text Tŷ Capel and Sunday school Tan Rofft Bod Iorwerth Capel Ebeneser
Llain Capel
655 Tyn y Goeden 655 St Peter’s Church Crud yr Awel Tal y Braich
Hendref
SH © Crown Copyright and database right 2018. Ordnance Survey 100021874. Welsh Government. 420 425 of the medieval town.
4. ARCHAEOLOGICAL RESOURCE Despite the medieval origin of the village being well known there has been little archaeological work done, with PDQ\TXLWHUHFHQWGHYHORSPHQWVEHLQJFDUULHGRXWZLWKOLWWOHRUQRSULRUDUFKDHRORJLFDOLQYHVWLJDWLRQ+RZHYHU where archaeological work has been done it suggests that considerable deposits and important features may survive.
7KHDUHDWRWKHQRUWKRI&KXUFK6WUHHWKDVUHFHLYHGVRPHDWWHQWLRQPDLQO\WHVWSLWVDQGWULDOWUHQFKHVDQGWKLV provides us with information about the underlying archaeological deposits. One notable feature is the wide- VSUHDGH[WHQWRIZLQGEORZQVDQGIRUPLQJDOD\HUXSWRPWKLFN7KHODFNRIVRLOGHYHORSPHQWZLWKLQWKLVVDQG VXJJHVWVWKLVPD\UHSUHVHQWDVLQJOHPDMRULQXQGDWLRQSRVVLEO\WREHLGHQWL¿HGZLWKDKLVWRULFDOO\GRFXPHQWHG VDQGVWRUPLQ'HFHPEHU &DUU 0RUHUHVHDUFKLVQHHGHGRQWKLVVDQGOD\HUEXWLILWGRHVUHSUHVHQW this single storm it shows how devastating that storm was, with the loss of horticultural land right in the heart of WKHYLOODJH+RZHYHUWKHODQGZDVUHFODLPHGDVWKHUHLVDWKLFNOD\HURIJDUGHQRUSORXJKVRLODERYHWKHVDQG
%HORZWKHVDQGDFURVVPXFKRIWKHDUHDLVDEXULHGVRLOXSWRPWKLFN7KLVZRXOGDSSHDUWREHWKHRULJLQDO medieval ground surface, and it has traces of occupation including shells and bone from rubbish deposits and one sherd of medieval pottery has been recovered.
In recent years the remains of two buildings, almost certainly of medieval date, have been excavated in plots that KDYHEHHQYDFDQWVLQFHEHIRUHWKHHDUO\ th century. Fragmentary remains of a stone building were found near the IURQWDJHRIDSORWRII&KXUFK6WUHHWDQGVLPLODUUHPDLQVZHUHIRXQGSULRUWRWKHGHYHORSPHQWRI/ODLQ&DSHORII &KDSHO6WUHHW,QERWKFDVHVTXHUQVWRQHVKDGEHHQUHXVHGLQSDYLQJLQRUDURXQGWKHEXLOGLQJV 5HHVDQG-RQHV DDQGE $QHDUOLHUWULDOWUHQFKDOVRIRXQGVRPHWUDFHVRIDPHGLHYDOGZHOOLQJRII&KXUFK6WUHHW :KLWH DQGDZDWFKLQJEULHIGXULQJWKHEXLOGLQJRI0{UD0\Q\GGRII&KDSHO6WUHHW %URRNHVDQG3ULFH %URRNHV DQG/DZV SURYLGHGKLQWVRISRVVLEOHPHGLHYDORFFXSDWLRQKHUH7KHVHUHPDLQVLQGLFDWHWKHVLJQL¿FDQFHRI the buried archaeology, and it is important that the few remaining gaps on the street frontages are archaeologically investigated before development. It is also likely that the back gardens and yards hide buried archaeological features and deposits relating to medieval and later activities.
7KHRQO\RWKHUDUHDVLQ1HZERURXJKYLOODJHWKDWKDYHEHHQH[FDYDWHGDUHWZR¿HOGVRQWKHQRUWKHUQRXWVNLUWVRI WKHYLOODJHQRUWKRI/{Q7ZQWL7KLVLVWKHVLWHIRUDQHZVFKRRODQGDUFKDHRORJLFDOZRUNKDVEHHQWDNLQJSODFHLQ DGYDQFHRIWKHGHYHORSPHQW7KHZRUNLVQRW\HWFRPSOHWHDQGUHVXOWVDUHYHU\SUHOLPLQDU\ (YDQVIRUWKFRPLQJ but discoveries include the remains of a wall, probably related to a house shown in this area on an 18th century HVWDWHPDS7KHUHLVDOVRHYLGHQFHIRUSUHKLVWRULFRFFXSDWLRQ%URQ]H$JHSLWVFRQWDLQLQJEXUQWVWRQHVSRVVLEO\ IRUFRRNLQJDQGWKHSRVWKROHVRIWZRJUDQDULHVRQHZLWKSRVWV SODWH DQGRQHZLWKSRVWVKDYHEHHQIRXQG 7KHJUDQDULHVDUHRIW\SHVXVXDOO\IRXQGRQ,URQ$JHVHWWOHPHQWVEXWPD\LQWKLVFDVHGDWHIURPWKHODWHU%URQ]H Age, but whichever date, they suggest a prehistoric settlement existed here prior to the establishment of the medieval borough.
5. CHARACTER STUDY Newborough is a large village measuring 1km north-west to south-east and 800m south-west to north-east. The
Plate 3. Excavated postholes of a 8-post granary found in 2017 excavations in advance of a new school
RULJLQDOPDLQQRUWKZHVWWRVRXWKHDVWVWUHHW 0DOOWUDHWKDQG&KDSHO6WUHHWV LVQRZSDUWRIWKHPDLQFRDVWDOURDG DURXQG$QJOHVH\ $ SODWH 7KH%FRPHVRIIWKHPDLQURDGMXVWQRUWKZHVWRIWKHFHQWUDOFURVVURDGV
DQGWKLVOHDGVWR/ODQJDIIR7KHFHQWUHRIWKHYLOODJHLVIDLUO\KHDYLO\EXLOWXSZLWKURZVRI th century houses ÀDQNLQJWKHPDLQURDGDQGWKHGHQVLW\RIKRXVLQJGHFUHDVHVWRZDUGVWKHHGJHVRIWKHYLOODJH7KHROGHUKRXVHVDUH generally towards the centre of the village with the outskirts dominated by modern developments.
Though the village formerly contained various shops and businesses these are now much less in evidence, and the large majority of the buildings are domestic houses. These are typically two-storey, stone-built with slate roofs, and a high percentage of chimneys. Recent upgrading of the houses has resulted in a high number of new windows and doors, and pebble-dash surfaces. Other building types include a non-conformist chapel, the Prichard-Jones ,QVWLWXWHDQGWKHSDULVKFKXUFK7KHFKXUFKOLHVDVLJQL¿FDQWGLVWDQFHWRWKHVRXWKZHVWRIWKHYLOODJHDQGDGMDFHQW to the former llys.
7KHFHQWUHRIWKHFXUUHQWYLOODJHZDVWKHVLWHRIWKHPHGLHYDOWRZQSODQQHGDURXQGWKHFHQWUDOFURVVURDGV+HUHWKH properties have long narrow gardens or yards, originating from burgage plots. The original layout of the borough FDQDOVREHVHHQLQWKHURDGV0DOOWUDHWK&KDSHO6WUHHWZDVWKHPDLQURDGWR&DHUQDUIRQYLDWKH$EHUPHQDLIHUU\ Pendref Street was also an important URDGOHDGLQJWR%HDXPDULVDIWHUWXUQLQJ sharply to the north at the eastern end of WKHWRZQ&KXUFK6WUHHWQRZOHDGVWRWKH parish church and beyond to the beach carpark, but the medieval street probably did not extend beyond the town limits, DQGDSDWKFRQWLQXHGWRWKHFKXUFK/{Q 7ZQWL % LVOLNHO\WRKDYHEHHQWKH back lane for the medieval town, and WKHODQHWR7\Q¶\/{QZDVSUREDEO\DOVR part of the medieval plan. This degree of preservation of the town layout makes Newborough an important survival. Plate 4. Chapel Street from the south (photograph by David Elis-Williams) The crossroads was the heart of the medieval town and would have had WRZQKRXVHVDURXQGLW,WZDVDOVRWKHPDUNHWVTXDUHDQGWKH&KDSHO6WUHHWDQG&KXUFK6WUHHWZRXOGKDYHEHHQ VLJQL¿FDQWO\ZLGHUWKDQDWSUHVHQWWRDFFRPPRGDWHPDUNHWVDQGIDLUV,QWKHPLGGOHRIWKHFURVVURDGVZDVWKH PDUNHWFURVVEXLOWLQ &DUU DQGVWLOOVKRZQRQPDSVLQWRWKH th century. A town hall had stood near the crossroads, but by the 18th century it was in ruins, and its position is not certainly known. Near the market cross was also a “carreg orchest” or “feat stone”, a large stone that strong men attempted to lift to their VKRXOGHUVWRSURYHWKHLUVWUHQJWK 2ZHQ
:KDWLVVXUSULVLQJLVWKHVFDUFLW\RIKRXVHVUHODWLQJWRSKDVHVRIWKHVHWWOHPHQW¶VKLVWRU\EHIRUHWKH th century; in PDQ\RWKHUPHGLHYDOWRZQVVRPHODUJHWRZQKRXVHVIURPWKHth or 17th centuries usually survive. In Newborough maps and historical evidence, as well as building styles, suggest that almost all the houses were built or largely UHEXLOWLQWKH th century. This can probably be explained E\WKHGHFOLQHLQWKHIRUWXQHVRIWKHWRZQIURPWKHth century onwards. Any new buildings would have been for agricultural labourers rather than merchants, and of lower TXDOLW\ %\ WKH HDUO\ th century most of the housing stock was probably very old or poorly built, necessitating considerable rebuilding but only at a modest scale. Date VWRQHVVXFKDVWKDWRQ&DH&UZQ&KDSHO6WUHHWRI SODWH DQGWKDWRI RQ5KLDQID3HQGUHI6WUHHWJLYH an indication of this rebuilding, and there are records of rebuilding, usually after complete demolition of the HDUOLHUKRXVHVLQWKHV 2ZHQ ,WLVSRVVLEOH that in some cases the masonry, especially of the ground ÀRRURIWKHSUHYLRXVKRXVHVZDVUHXVHGLQWKHUHPRGHOOHG buildings and, less likely, some of the original roof timbers may have been retained. Plate 5. Date stone above the door of Cae Crwn (photograph by David Elis-Williams)
7 The only certain 18th FHQWXU\ KRXVH VXUYLYLQJ LQ WKH YLOODJH LV 3HQJDPID SODWH 0DOOWUDHWK 6WUHHW ZLWK D GDWHVWRQHRI DQGVXUYLYLQJH[WHUQDOIHDWXUHVLQFOXGLQJWKHODUJHFKLPQH\DQGRIIFHQWUHGRRUZD\ZKLFK indicate 18thFHQWXU\RUHDUOLHURULJLQV6RPHRWKHUEXLOGLQJVVXUYLYHGXQWLOUHODWLYHO\UHFHQWO\%HWZHHQ3HQJDPID DQG %RVWRQ 7HUUDFH WKHUH ZDV D FRWWDJH NQRZQ DV /ODLQ &OHGG\I FRWWDJH VZRUG TXLOOHW ZKLFK VXUYLYHGXQWLODWOHDVWWKH VDQG was occupied by a joiner who made FRI¿QV 1RUPDQ (YDQV DQG 'DYLG 2ZHQVSHUVFRPP 5HPDLQVRI another old house can still be seen LQ D VKHG DGMDFHQW WR &RHG $QQD &KXUFK 6WUHHW 7KLV ZDV SDUW RI a row but the adjacent house has been demolished and the remaining building altered. This building was used by women making marram grass items. Women who did not have their own sheds clubbed Plate 6. Pengamfa (photographed by Marianne Jones) together to rent this building; marram grass weaving was wet and dirty, because the grass had to be soaked before it could be woven, so it was not a job to do in the home (Norman (YDQVDQG(LQLU7KRPDVSHUVFRPP
The most impressive house that no longer exists was known as Y Plas or Plas Uchaf, and it stood to the north-west RI3HQ\%RQF0DOOWUDHWK6WUHHW7KLVZDVVWDQGLQJLQWRWKHthFHQWXU\WKRXJKUXLQHGE\WKH V$VWRQH ZLWKWKHGDWHRIZDVIRXQGLQLWVUXLQV 5&$+0: DQGDWOHDVWSDUWVRIWKHKRXVHSUREDEO\GDWHG EDFNWRWKHth century. The site of Y Plas can be recognised as a low earthwork platform in the southern corner of the ¿HOG SODWH
0RVWRIWKHHDUO\ th century houses are modest dwellings of one or two storeys, built in rows. Short terraces of identical houses do exist, but typically each house LVRIVOLJKWO\GLIIHUHQWKHLJKWDQGVL]HWRLWV QHLJKERXU7KLVUHÀHFWVWKHODFNRIODUJH VFDOHLQYHVWPHQWLQWKH th century, and the retention of individual ownership of the houses within each plot. The simple, single-fronted properties of Tyn yr Ardd, Plate 7. The site of Y Plas &KDSHO6WUHHW SODWH DQG Plate 8. Tyn Plate 9. College Bach and Ysgubor Ddu yr Ardd, (photographed by Owenna Orme) Chapel Street (photograph by David Elis- Williams) 8 WKHUHDU\DUGV7ǔ1DQW&KDSHO6WUHHW SODWH LVYHU\VLPLODUEXWPDSHYLGHQFHVKRZVWKDWLWGDWHVWRWKHODWHU thFHQWXU\7KHEULFNDUFKHVRYHUWKHZLQGRZVDQGGRRUDUHW\SLFDORIODWHU th century houses in the village. 7KHEULFNDUFKHVFDQEHVHHQDW6LJQ&RWWDJH&KXUFK6WUHHWZKLFKZDVUHEXLOWDVWKUHHVLQJOHIURQWHGGZHOOLQJV in the early 20thFHQWXU\DFFRUGLQJWRPDSHYLGHQFH SODWH 5KRXVH0DOOWUDHWK6WUHHWDOVRKDVVLPLODUIHDWXUHV SODWH EXWLQWKLVFDVHWKHODFNRIUHQGHURUSDLQWHQDEOHVWKHVWRQHZRUNWREHFOHDUO\VHHQDQGWKLVVXJJHVWV Plate 11. Tǔ Nant (photographed by Megan Howe) Plate 10. Carrog House, Chapel Street (photograph by David Elis-Williams) WKDWWKHKRXVHPD\KDYHEHHQUHEXLOWIURPWKHORZHUZLQGRZVXSZDUGVZLWKWKHJURXQGÀRRUEHORQJLQJWRDQ HDUOLHUEXLOGLQJ7KLVPD\DSSO\WRVRPHRIWKHRWKHU th century houses. Rhouse was the house of the bailiff of WKHERURXJKRI1HZERURXJKDQGKHNHSWWKH&RUSRUDWLRQUHJDOLDLQKLVKRXVHXQWLOLWZDVGRQDWHGWRWKH3ULFKDUG -RQHV,QVWLWXWHLQWKHHDUO\WKFHQWXU\ 2ZHQ ZKHUHWKHPDFHLVVWLOORQGLVSOD\ 7KHHDUO\ th century houses were almost all built on sites of earlier houses that would have been used back to the medieval period. In the mid and ODWHU th FHQWXU\ PRUH JHQWUL¿HG KRXVHV ZHUH built, but often outside the medieval town on IRUPHU¿HOGV([DPSOHVRIWKHVHDUH7DO\%UDLFK SODWH DQGWKH5HFWRU\QRZFDOOHG/ODQHUFK Though the latter was within the medieval town it was built on a plot vacant except for the IRUPHU WLWKH EDUQ %RG ,RUZHUWK EXLOW DURXQG 2ZHQ ZDVLQVHUWHGEHKLQGWKH YLOODJH KRXVHV RII &KDSHO 6WUHHW7KH QXPEHU of these substantial houses was small and the YLOODJHGLGQRWH[SDQGVLJQL¿FDQWO\XQWLOWKHODWH Plate 12. Sign Cottage (photographed by Megan Howe) 20th century. 0RUHPRGHVWKRXVHVDFTXLUHGED\ZLQGRZVDQGRWKHUIDVKLRQDEOHIHDWXUHVLQWKHODWHU th century. Semi-detached KRXVHVVHHPWRKDYHEHFRPHIDVKLRQDEOHVXFKDV%URQ5DOOW$ZHORQDQG%U\Q*ROHX6XQQ\&OLIIH&KXUFK6WUHHW DQG1RVDQG/{Q7ZQWL SODWH 2IWKHPRUHVXEVWDQWLDOEXLOGLQJVLQWKHKHDUWRIWKHYLOODJHWKHEXLOGLQJRQ WKHFRUQHUEHWZHHQ&KDSHO6WUHHWDQG3HQGUHI Street is the most notable. This was a shop in WKH ODWH th century and until recently was XVHG DV D SRVW RI¿FH EXW FXUUHQWO\ KRXVHV &DI¿:LZHU*RFK5HG6TXLUUHO&DIp SODWH 7KHQDPHRIWKHDGMDFHQW9LFWRULD+RXVH LQGLFDWHVWKHLUODWH9LFWRULDQGDWH ,QWKHHDUO\ th century the crossroads was still the focus of the village. An inn known as Sign or Sign Fawr, dating back to at least RFFXSLHGWKHFRUQHURI&KXUFK6WUHHW DQG&KDSHO6WUHHWDQGRSSRVLWHWKLVZDVWKH Plate 13. Rhouse (photographed by David Elis Williams) :KLWH /LRQ SXE EXLOW DURXQG 2ZHQ 7KH SXE LV VWLOO RQPXFKWKHVDPHVLWHEXWE\ it had been rebuilt and buildings added on the south-eastern side so it LVQRORQJHURQWKHFRUQHU SODWH Other inns and taverns show that the village still provided a centre for the surrounding countryside. There was also a smithy in part of what is now the Newborough Stores, conveniently located for passing trade, as well as Plate 14. Tal y Braich (photographed by Chris Jones) shops. In its later history Newborough was a rural settlement, surrounded by farms. Some of the farms are now on the outskirts of the village, though originally separated from LW E\ ¿HOGV (UZ *RFK LV VKRZQ RQ WKH PDSV IURP in exactly its current plan. The building is composed of a VLQJOHVWRUH\FRWWDJHZLWKDORQJEDUQDWWDFKHG SODWH 7KHPDLQFRWWDJHZRXOGDSSHDUWREHHDUO\ th century in Plate 16. Former post of¿ce now Caf¿ Wiwer Goch/Red Squirrel Café (photographed by David Owen) Plate 15. Nos. 1 and 2 Lôn Twnti (photographed by Anne Harris) date but the barn may be older and have developed from a long house with a dwelling at one end and barn at the RWKHU%U\QVLQFZDVDOVRDIDUPRQWKHRXWVNLUWV,WZDV an important location as it is mentioned as a marker on WKHERURXJKERXQGDU\ 5RZODQGV ,WDOVRKDGEDUQV attached to the house, though now only the house VXUYLYHV 3HQGUHI ZDV D VLJQL¿FDQW IDUP PDUNLQJ WKH end of the town on the eastern side. Its barns have also JRQHEXWWKH th century houses still survives. Pen y %RQFRQ0DOOWUDHWK6WUHHWKDVDKLVWRU\JRLQJEDFNWRDW least the 18th century but the present buildings are late thFHQWXU\+HUHDWOHDVWWKHEDUQVDQGRXWEXLOGLQJV VWLOOVXUYLYH SODWH Plate 17. The White Lion Plate 18. Erw Goch (photographed by Jan Hale) 10 1HZERURXJK ZDV LQÀXHQFHG E\ WKH VSUHDG RI QRQFRQIRUPLVW GHQRPLQDWLRQV HVSHFLDOO\ 0HWKRGLVP DFURVV Anglesey in the 18thFHQWXU\ 3U\FH ,WKDGIRXUFKDSHOVE\WKHODWH thFHQWXU\ZLWK(EHQHVHU&KDSHO WKH RQO\ RQH VXUYLYLQJ EHLQJ WKH HDUOLHVW7KH (EHQHVHU &KDSHO LV VDLG WR KDYH EHHQ EXLOW LQ WKH GDWH displayed on the current building, but the EXLOGLQJVKRZQRQWKHHDUO\ th century PDSLVTXLWHGLIIHUHQWWRWKHSUHVHQWRQH SODWH 7KH¿UVWFKDSHOPHHWLQJVZHUH probably held in an existing house, and WKLVZDVUHVWRUHGLQUHEXLOWLQ and the present chapel was built in 1881. A Sunday school and chapel house were DGGHGQH[WWRWKHFKDSHOLQ EXWWKH present form of the Sunday school rooms ZDV QRW EXLOW XQWLO DIWHU $ %DSWLVW &KDSHO NQRZQ DV WKH 6HLRQ &KDSHO Plate 19. Pen y Bonc ZDV EXLOW LQ RQ 3HQGUHI 6WUHHW EXW QRWKLQJRIWKLVVXUYLYHVH[FHSWDSODTXHLQ WKHZDOORIWKHKRXVHEXLOWRQLWVVLWH SODWH 7KHPRGHUQKRXVHRI+HQ&DSHO0DOOWUDHWK6WUHHWLVRQWKHVLWH of the Wesleyan Methodist chapel, built in 7KHVLWHRI6RDU,QGHSHQGHQW&KDSHO EXLOWLQLVQRZMXVWDSDWFKRIJUDVV at the end of Rhenc Newydd, previously Soar Terrace. There was also another church in addition to the parish church. This is QRZ NQRZQ DV (JOZ\V %DFK DQG LW LV D community centre, but it was formerly the 6W7KRPDV¶V0LVVLRQ&KXUFK $ XQLTXH IHDWXUH RI WKH HDUO\ th century and present village is the Prichard Jones Institute, built in a Neo-Tudor architectural VW\OH SODWH 7KLVZDVJLYHQWRWKHSHRSOH of Newborough by Sir John Prichard Jones, who was born in Newborough and became Plate 20. Capel Ebeneser (photographed by Chris Jones) managing director of the Dickens and Jones department store in Regent Street, London. The Institute provided a library, reading rooms and function rooms for the use of the local people and was to be supported by an endowment. There were also six cottages built to accommodate elderly Newborough residents. The cottages were provided rent free and WKHRFFXSDQWVDOVRUHFHLYHGDSHQVLRQ7KH¿HOGRSSRVLWHWKH,QVWLWXWH now a children’s playground, was bought to provide gardens for the UHVLGHQWVRIWKHFRWWDJHV,QWKH VDZDUPHPRULDOIRUWKHSDULVKRI Plate 21. Plaque commemorating the building of Seion Chapel built into the wall of Cermar (photographed by David Owen) Plate 22. The Prichard Jones Institute 11 Newborough was constructed in the grounds of the Prichard Jones Institute. In the late 20th and early 21st centuries the village expanded, mainly to the north and to the east. This has more WKDQGRXEOHGWKHVL]HRIWKHYLOODJHDQGKDVDOWHUHGLWVFKDUDFWHU7KHROGHUGHYHORSPHQWVRQWKHHDVWHUQVLGH RIWKHYLOODJHDUHGRPLQDWHGE\IRUPHU&RXQFLOKRXVHVLQ8FKHOGUHDQG7UH5KRV\U SODWH EXLOWIURPWKH VRQZDUGV2QWKHQRUWKHUQVLGHRI the village are extensive developments RIEXQJDORZVLQFOXGLQJ7\Q\&DHDQG %U\Q5KHG\QVXUURXQGHGE\WKHLURZQ gardens. There is also a development RI EXQJDORZV &UXG \U $ZHO RQ WKH southern side of the village. In addition there are detached modern houses on the outskirts of the village. Most of these developments were built RYHU RSHQ ¿HOGV EH\RQG WKH PHGLHYDO town but some on Malltraeth Street Plate 23. Tre Rhosyr (photographed by Anne Harris) RYHUOD\ IRUPHU EXUJDJH SORWV %U\Q Felin, though a modern house, is built RIWKHVLWHRIDQHDUOLHUKRXVHWKDWVWRRGRQWKHVLWHRIWKH¿UVWZLQGPLOOWREHEXLOWRQ$QJOHVH\LQ *XLVH DQG/HHV 6WDG+HQ Plate 24. Newborough Primary School 6. SIGNIFICANCE AND POTENTIAL Newborough is a particularly good example of a medieval borough where much of the original layout survives and can easily be recognised on the ground. It has expanded outwards late in its history leaving much of the centre largely unchanged in layout even through much rebuilding has occurred. Many opportunities to obtain archaeological information in advance of development have been missed. Recently work has been done revealing remains of medieval houses, but earlier developments were carried out with little or no investigation. The opportunity to fully recover the archaeology of remaining vacant plots must not be missed if these are to be developed in future. Archaeologically the back gardens, former burgage plots, are of high potential, almost certainly preserving VLJQL¿FDQWDUFKDHRORJLFDOUHPDLQVWKDWZRXOGHQOLJKWHQWKHKLVWRU\RIWKHPHGLHYDOERURXJKHVSHFLDOO\UXEELVK SLWVZHOOVWUDFHVRIVPDOOVFDOHLQGXVWU\HWF,WLVLPSRUWDQWWKDWWKHTXHVWLRQRIWKHVDQGGHSRVLWVLVLQYHVWLJDWHG and that there is no automatic assumption that all layers overlying the sand are recent. The former location of Y Plas must also be considered to be of very high potential. This is currently in the corner RIDSDVWXUH¿HOGWKDWKDVVRIDUDYRLGHGUHGHYHORSPHQW7KHODFNRIXVHRIWKLVVLWHVLQFH<3ODVZDVGHPROLVKHG DQGWKHIDFWWKDWWKHEXLOGLQJZDVQRWUHEXLOWLQ th century, suggests a very high likelihood of survival of early post medieval and medieval remains. 7KH3ULFKDUG-RQHV,QVWLWXWHDQGLWVFRWWDJHVDQGWKH(EHQHVHU&KDSHODUHSURWHFWHGDVOLVWHGEXLOGLQJVEXWWKH 12 VLJQL¿FDQFHRIRWKHUEXLOGLQJVLVOHVVFOHDU7KHUHDUHFHUWDLQO\JRRGH[DPSOHVRIHDUO\ th century vernacular architecture, but the only probable surviving 18thFHQWXU\KRXVHLV3HQJDPID+RZHYHUWKHUHUHPDLQVWKHSRVVLELOLW\ WKDWHDUO\IDEULFVXUYLYHVZLWKLQKRXVHVUHEXLOWLQWKHHDUO\RUHYHQODWHU th century and this possibility should not be discounted without interior inspections. 7. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 7KHSURMHFWZDVIXQGHGE\&DGZ0RVWRIWKHZRUNRQWKLVSURMHFWZDVGRQHE\PDQ\YROXQWHHUV7KHIROORZLQJ SHRSOHZHUHLQYROYHGLQWKHFKDUDFWHULVDWLRQUHFRUGLQJ 6LkQ%DUNHU'L%URDG%HWKDQ\&UDEWUHH$QGUHZ'D\ 'DYLG(OLV:LOOLDPV0DULRQ*DVK-DQ+DOH$QQH+DUULV3U\GHUL+HGG1DWDOLH+HUULQJ0HJDQ+RZH&KULV Jones, Glyn W. Jones, Marianne Jones, Alex Kraus, Sue Madine, Owenna Orme, David Owens, Einir Thomas, $QGUHZ9DUOH\&DWULRQD9DUOH\/RXLVH:LOOLDPV'HO\WK:LOVRQ0DULRQ*DVKDQG$QQH+DUULVDOVRKHOSHG ZLWKDUFKLYHUHVHDUFK1DWDOLH+HUULQJDQG0DUWLQ0DUZRRGGLGGDWDLQSXWWLQJ7KHFKLOGUHQRI Copyright 7KHFRS\ULJKWRIWKLVUHSRUWLVKHOGE\&DGZDQG*Z\QHGG$UFKDHRORJLFDO7UXVW/WG7KHPDSVXVHGLQWKLV report are reproduced from Ordnance Survey material with the permission of Ordnance Survey on behalf of the &RQWUROOHURI+HU0DMHVW\¶V6WDWLRQHU\2I¿FH&URZQ&RS\ULJKW8QDXWKRULVHGUHSURGXFWLRQLQIULQJHV&URZQ &RS\ULJKWDQGPD\OHDGWRSURVHFXWLRQRUFLYLOSURFHHGLQJV:HOVK*RYHUQPHQW/LFHQFH1XPEHU 8. SOURCES %URRNHV,DQG/DZV.Plots 1 and 2, Land Adjacent to Bod Iorwerth, Chapel Street, Newborough, unpublished ($6UHSRUW($6 %URRNHV,3DQG3ULFH- Land Adjoining Bod Iorwerth, Newborough: archaeological evaluation, unpublished EAS report &DUU$'Medieval Anglesey$QJOHVH\$QWLTXDULDQ6RFLHW\DQG)LHOG&OXE/ODQJHIQL Evans, R., forthcoming. New Ysgol Bro Aberffraw Primary School, Newborough, Anglesey: Archaeological Mitigation, unpublished GAT report )HQWRQ5 Tours in Wales (1804-1813)&DPEULDQ$UFKDHRORJLFDO$VVRFLDWLRQ $FFHVVHGRQOLQHDWŚƩƉƐ͗ͬͬ ĂƌĐŚŝǀĞ͘ŽƌŐͬĚĞƚĂŝůƐͬƚŽƵƌƐŝŶǁĂůĞƐϭϴϬϰϬϬĨĞŶƚƌŝĐŚ *HRORJ\RI%ULWDLQ9LHZHU%ULWLVK*HRORJLFDO6XUYH\ŚƩƉ͗ͬͬŵĂƉĂƉƉƐ͘ďŐƐ͘ĂĐ͘ƵŬͬŐĞŽůŽŐLJŽĩƌŝƚĂŝŶͬŚŽŵĞ͘Śƚŵů? *XLVH%DQG/HHV*Windmills of Anglesey6FRWIRUWK%RRNV/DQFDVWHU +XJKHV0 7KHPDUUDPJUDVVLQGXVWU\RI1HZERURXJK$QJOHVH\Transactions of the Anglesey Antiquarian Society and Field Club, 22-28 -RKQVWRQH1 &DH/O\V5KRV\U DFRXUWRIWKHSULQFHVRI*Z\QHGGStudia Celtic ;;;,,, Johnstone, N., 2000. Llys and Maerdref: the royal courts of the Princes of Gwynedd, Studia Celtica;;;,9 /HZLV6 A Topographical Dictionary of Wales, London (accessed online ŚƩƉ͗ͬͬǁǁǁ͘ďƌŝƟƐŚͲŚŝƐƚŽƌLJ͘ĂĐ͘ƵŬͬ ƚŽƉŽŐƌĂƉŚŝĐĂůͲĚŝĐƚͬǁĂůĞƐ Longley, D., 2001. Medieval settlement and landscape change on Anglesey, Landscape HistoryYRO Natural Resources Wales ŚƩƉƐ͗ͬͬŶĂƚƵƌĂůƌĞƐŽƵƌĐĞƐ͘ǁĂůĞƐͬĚĂLJƐͲŽƵƚͬƉůĂĐĞƐͲƚŽͲǀŝƐŝƚͬŶŽƌƚŚͲǁĞƐƚͲǁĂůĞƐͬŶĞǁďŽƌŽƵŐŚͲ ƌĞǀŝƐĞĚͬǁŚĞƌĞͲLJŽƵͲĐĂŶͲǀŝƐŝƚͬŶĞǁďŽƌŽƵŐŚͲĨŽƌĞƐƚ͍ͬůĂŶŐсĞŶ 2ZHQ+ Hanes Plwyf Niwbwrch ym Môn 3HQQDQW7 A Tour in Wales Vol II %ULGJH%RRNV:UH[KDP 3U\FH$, 6LGHOLJKWVRQWKHULVHRI1RQFRQIRUPLW\LQWKHGLRFHVHRI%DQJRUTransactions of the Anglesey Antiquarian Society and Field Club 5HHV&DQG-RQHV0DResults of Archaeological WorN at Land adjacent to Tǔ Capel, Chapel Street, Newborough, Ynys MonXQSXEOLVKHG&5$UFKDHRORJ\UHSRUW&5B 5HHV&DQG-RQHV0EResults of Archaeological Work at Land at Church Street, NewboroughXQSXEOLVKHG&5 $UFKDHRORJ\UHSRUW&5 B 5RZODQGV+µ$QWLTXLWDWHVSDURFKLDOHV1RII’, Archaeologia CambrensisYRO,QR,,,VXSSOHPHQW ZULWWHQDERXWDQGWUDQVODWHGIURPWKH/DWLQ 5&$+0: 5R\DO&RPPLVVLRQIRUWKH$QFLHQWDQG+LVWRULFDO0RQXPHQWVRI:DOHV An Inventory of the Ancient Monuments in Anglesey+062/RQGRQ 6RXOVE\, The Towns of Medieval Wales3KLOOLPRUHDQG&R&KLFKHVWHU :KLWH5 GAT HER Further Information File PRN 60255 Gwynedd Archaeological Trust Ymddiriedolaeth Archaeolegol Gwynedd Craig Beuno, Ffordd y Garth, Bangor, Gwynedd. LL57 2RT Ffon: 01248 352535. Ffacs: 01248 370925. email:[email protected]