the sea and rivers, only occasionally satisfying themselves with roots and 1 The area down to the end of the 13th century1 tree-berries. Some twenty years ago, between Bryn Llwyd and Llanddwyn Island, on either side of the ridge of rocks, were to be seen the remains of a flint-working area, a The area down to the end of the 13th century; its original names; the area in the place where tool-blades were manufactured by chipping the edges of the stone. There earliest times; the region under the Welsh princes (down to 1282). were many stones of this kind, including a number of flakes useful for scraping skin and making it flexible after it had dried, in order to make clothes, together with It is appropriate to begin with a list of the names given to the area, from time to scores of red earthenware pottery sherds and a few fossil bones. time, with a view to ascertaining what we can of their history. Possibily its earliest These flakes were found on the surface, but it is more than likely that there are 6 name was Rhosyr2 and, again perhaps, the reason for this was the long ridge of thousands more hidden beneath the sand. Samples were sent to experts at the British moorland, stretching ten miles from Newborough to Mynydd Llwydiarth; but this Museum, in whose opinion the stones belong to a period about 5000 B.C., and the 7 explanation will not hold good if Rhosyr and not Rhos-hir is the true form of the earthenware, beaker fragments, to a later period, about 2000 B.C. The pottery was name. The name of the parish, in any event, was Llananno, but no-one knows ornamented by pressing a cockle shell onto the clay while it was still soft. As pottery whether Anno was man or woman, nor when she lived. The place was also referred to did not last long then (any more than now!) it is a good indicator, really the best, for as Rhosfair; that, perhaps, was its name in the time of the princes; it [the element fair, dating the associated period. In one place, flint arrowheads and part of a stone axe mair - Mary] is found in the name of the Virgin Mary to whom the chancel of the were found. Also, over the three miles of coastline between Llanddwyn Island and present church is dedicated.3 After King Edward the First founded his borough here Abermenai, many unworked flint pebbles are found and it is natural to suppose that 8 the town became known, naturally enough, as Novum Burgum, in English Newburgh along this strand the original natives came for their materials. Very little in situ flint or Newborough, and on the tongues of the local inhabitants, Niwbwrch. As time went is found in Wales, and almost the sole source of it was on the coast, from the Irish by, there was a tendency4 to refer to the manor or lordship by the name Rhosfair, and Sea drift. In addition, in the warren large mounds of cockle shells, periwinkles, blue to the town by the name Niwbwrch or Newborough. By the 18th century, all memory mussel shells and others are seen. The cockleshells predominate. There follows a full of Anno had been forgotten, but a saint’s name still remained, St. Peter,5 the church list of the tests observed, with their technical names:- Cardium edule - common; being dedicated to him under the influence of the Normans; and the common name of cardium norvegicum - rare; cyprina islandica - rare; mytilus edulis - rare and small; the place was Llanbedr Newborough. tapes virgineus - few; mactra solida - few; pectunculus glycimeris - few; pecten Before the Romans came to Wales in the 1st century A.D, the inhabitants of opercularis - few; pecten varius - few; littorina littorea - few; patella vulgata – Anglesey inhabited the coastal regions, especially the southern extremities, because rather rare; buccinum undatum – rather rare; ostrea edulis – a good number at one the greater part of the island was marsh and covered with dense woodland, the haunt location, clear evidence that they were one of the main foods of people living here of many kinds of animal. Here, it is believed, grew oak trees (Quercus Robur). It is then. Cockles are seen only on the side of Llanddwyn towards the boundary wall certain that the region which is now Llanddwyn warren was the abode of people from Dir-Forgan to Cerrig Gladus. centuries if not millenia before Christ, in the period between the Old and New Stone We need not necessarily assume that these shell mounds retain their original ages. In this period animal food, almost exclusively, formed the diet of the height and form, being altered over time, the movement of the sand and action of rain inhabitants, who were dependent for their food on hunting for meat, and fishing in causing them to be reduced many feet in height and levelled. On one mound near Bryn Llwyd, some thirty years ago, a bone needle was discovered, two inches in 1 [The following is a free translation which it is hoped preserves the essence of Owen’s text. A literal length, pointed at each end. The end next to the eye was worn, probably from being rendering tends to result in awkward and convoluted English. Ed.] pushed through material during sewing, protecting the eye of the needle from 2 The likelihood is that this was originally the name of the cantref, the principal township taking the breaking. This needle is believed to date from the end of the New Stone Age same name. Thus it is, also, with Aberffraw and Cemais. [Neolithic period].9Associated with it were things belonging to the Roman era, circa 3 “There is a court in Rhosyr, there is a lake, There are golden bells, 300 A.D., such as a small spoon, like a mustard spoon, used, together with tweezers, Llewelyn is Lord there, Tall men form his retinue, A thousand, ten thousand, clad in white and green.” 6 Nearby are vestiges very like a plough cut [? Ed.], some 20 feet [6m] across with stones round. The 4 See Ministers’ Accounts in the P.R.O in London. Bryn Llwyd rock itself, steep on three sides, seems to form a natural citadel. 5 When the ancient British Church came under the influence of the Normans and the Papacy, the names 7 Anglesey Antiquarian Society’s Transactions, 1927, pp. 23-33,36. of many Welsh saints were altered to scriptural ones. It seems that by some such means Newborough 8 A.A.S.T. 1928 pp.21-7 church was named for St.Peter. 9 A.A.S.T. 1927 p.35 1 2 by high-status Romans to clean their ears. Perhaps, where the sands now lie, some antiquary Henry Rowlands17 saw the rectangular outline of its walls but since then lady once lost her ‘vanity set’.10 they have been covered by the sands.18 Before King Edward 1st conquered North Wales, when Gwynedd comprised In the 14th century19 the inhabitants of the maenor included three sorts of tenant; Merioneth, Eifion, Lleyn, Arfon and Anglesey, the Welsh Princes’ high road ran firstly, puri nativi vocati mairdreve.20 Secondly, nativi qui se dicunt esse liberos through Harlech and Criccieth to Aber Menai and thence to Aberffraw, where the nativos; those who said they were free villeins; thirdly, nativi vocati Gardynemen, the principal court of the princes of Gwynedd was situated. There, according to the Life so-called ‘garden-men’. The conditions under which these latter held their land are of Gruffydd ap Cynan, that Prince gathered his fleet with the intention of reclaiming known, but we are not certain about their free or unfree status. Therefore, the his inheritance. Having set out from Ireland each time, he always landed at explanation proposed below is, of necessity, tentative. Abermenai11 because men from all parts of Gwynedd could take the high road to that place. Before the sands formed Abermenai spit and the Tal y Foel sandbanks, there (1) THE TENANTS OF THE MAERDREF was a wide, convenient anchorage here for fleets of ships and wherries.12 According to the old Welsh laws, the testimony of an 11th century chronicler and Because they were termed puri nativi it is clear that these were considered serfs. the later writings of Giraldus Cambrensis, at this period Wales comprised a number They held between them, twelve and one half gafaelion [tenaments] and each paid 2 of kingdoms each ruled by its own Lord. Each kingdom embraced one or more shillings, eight and one half pence [14p] rent at each quarter-year’s end. Total rent cantrefs and each cantref consisted of two or more commotes. was therefore six pounds, sixteen shillings, five and one half pence yearly. However, The inhabitants of Anglesey were primarily farmers, living in small family in addition to money, these tenants were also liable for renders in kind and service, groups according to the ancient Welsh tribal customs and traditions. The privileged such as to make repairs to the court and the mill whenever necessary and to provide villeins (liberi nativi)13 lived in scattered small-holdings and the other unfree food for the Prince and his retinue or to pay one penny-halfpenny daily in bondsmen in more communal hamlets.14 In each commote, there was a maenor or llys commutation thereof. Each was also obliged to pay five shillings whenever they [court] of the prince. In the commote of Menai the maenor was at Rhosyr inherited land and five shillings on the occasion of the marriage of a daughter.