Nº 48 Free /Gratuit

FESTIVALS Sardanes and Correfocs www.anglophone-direct.com and OUT WALK

THE DAY AMÉLIOREZ TEST Banyuls-Sur-Mer REGION Le Racou TRADITIONS FRENCH

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ANGLAIS Summer 2015 your for

The P-O Life inthePyrénées-Orientales Life Nº 48 FREE /GRATUIT

P-O Life 1 RosaLife in theBayot Pyrénées-Orientales 2 P-O Life 2 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales

packed with loads of stuff that we packed withloadsofstuffthat website, summer, duetogoonlineinlate Keep aneyeouttooforournewlook 2016 unlesssubstantialfundingisfound. Train Jaune, destinedtoclose inJanuary take aride, possiblyyourlast, onLePetit and headfortheGorgesdelaGuillera, or Tech andChateau Valmy, packyourpicnic make P-OLifespecial!Joinusin Arles sur thankstothemall -theyarewhat grateful your personalguidesaroundtheregion. My volunteered tobe guest writerswhohave jokes, daysout...... andahostoftalented French exercises, andEnglishlanguage silly restaurant reviews, recipes, airportnews, As usual, POLifebringsyouwalks, back intoP-OLife. Dohopeyoulikeit. who hasbroughtalittlebitof ‘quirky’ Maite, funnewdesignerfromBarcelona delighted toextendawarm ‘Holà’ to asakipper,I amgiddy andsoooooo look P-OLife-andtheywouldberight. EDITO:-) R can’t fit into the magazine! can’t fitintothemagazine! with excitement at thenew with excitementat about for menottobeleaping itwasoutofcharacter say that egular readersofP-OLifemight Please supportouradvertisers, and tell them how much we appreciate muchweappreciate tell themhow them whenyoumeetthem. P-O Life isfundedentirelybytheir and haveagreatsummer! the suncream.... adverts. Without them, we sun andheavyon Go steadyonthe would quitesimplynotexist. Magazine gratuit.Magazine Tout Droitsréservés, Reproduction interdite

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Cover: Rosa Bayot. http://rosa-pintaolis.blogspot.com.es/ Casteller Painting exhibition Saturday 30th May -15th June- Maison des Arts, Le Barcarès

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P-O Life 3 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 4 4 4 D.P.E. CRef:3810260,000€ D.P.E. CRef:325,000€ 3213 pool. PANORAMICVIEWS. covered swimming enclosed garden, bathroom. Mature en suiteandhouse 4 bedrooms,one fitted kitchen, this villaboasts on 438m²ofland, In perfectcondition CÉRET area: laundry room&garage. summer kitchencellar, with en-suite, Master bedroom period charm. conveniences with to combinemodern of garden, house, in875m2 Charming 3bed CÉRET area: Arles sur TechArles sur : D.P.E. CRef:3776449,000€ P-O Life of land.AMUSTSEE! amidst 12,000m² bedrooms. Set and fitting,large high qualityfixtures swimming pool, Conservatory, renovated. 276m², completely Catalan Masof Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales renovated

Résidence Tins’simo, 2 bdSimon-Battle, 66400 CERET

Sundays andbankholidaysbyappointment Open Mon-Sat:8:3012:30&13:3019:30 Agence desCerisiers [email protected] www.century21-cerisiers-ceret.com 04 6821 00 D.P.E. ERef:3561197,000€ D.P.E. DRef:3847270,000€ NOT TOBEMISSED!! RARE OPPORTUNITY. apartment. independent studio ground floor swimming pooland garden, aboveground house withgarage, 2 bedroomedvillage central: Delightful Amelie-Les-Bains suitable forrental.AMUSTSEE!! bedroomed apartment furnished independent garage and fully fittedkitchen, bedroomed villahas this light,three with stunningviews, Amelie-Les-Bains Montbolo: D.P.E. DRef:3721220,000€ TechArles sur : required. ARAREPROPERTY! large garage.Nowork 3 balconies&a wc, 2fireplaces, bathroom, separate rooms, 6bedrooms, 2 largereception de Maitre'with traditional 'Maison Impressive, 2 Above

LATOUR-BAS-ELNE: AIRPORT ANDPALAIS DESCONGRÈS ALL MAINTOURISTOFFICES, PERPIGNAN

P ALAU-DEL-VIDRE: P-O POINTS. FOLLOWING MAINDISTRIBUTION

stock P-O Life, so why not ask them to save you a copy? ILLE SURTÊT POLLESTRES: ST JEANPLA C PERPIGNAN: Many of our advertisers COLLIOURE: LE BOULOU: ABESTANY: Life DE COR LAROQUE: ARGELÈS: PRADES: C CÉRET VINÇ THUIR: ANET: ELNE: TS: CAN BE FOUND ATBE THE CAN A: : :

Intermarché Intermarché

Casino, Intermarché Restaurant LesAbeilles Super U, Intermarché Leroy Merlin, T Atelier BulledeV ‘Le FournilDesAlberes’ Café desArtistes, Carrefour Market, Carrefour Market, Intermarché Château Roy A Intermarché, V&B 5 Continents, 70th ChocolateP Hyper Casino, Reso Bio, Intermarché, ourist Office ourist Office viva, 21 Century

AgencePagès Intermarché, Weldom Bricomarché, Leclerc

al al CarrefourMarket, CaféNoisette Archipel Theatre ArchipelTheatre SudCroquettes, Biocoop, ark ark erre/ Boulangerie Intermarché

INDEX

3. CôteVermeilleStories 2. Lelycanblanc 1. Summertimeallthecatsarebored BOOK LIFE Améliorez votreanglais Test yourfrench PO-LANGUAGES READERS PHOTOS Int.sheep dogtrials(Osseja) 68 Chateau Valmy Take twolakes.Teleski Take twolakesRest.LaGuinguette Arles-Sur-Tech Port VendrestoPaulilles The littleyellowtrain Pretty perfectPOpicnics OUT FORTHEDAY Recipes Restaurant Reviews FOOD &DRINK Correfoc iSardanes FESTIVALS &TRADITIONS English speakingservices Emergency numbers Veronique Joguet Gallery SantRoch,Céret Airport news Mozzies. Let’sstartfromscratch Le RacouBeach Catalan fishingboats What didyoulearninschooltoday PO-LIFE Banyuls-Sur-Mer WALK THEREGION 18/25/26 18-24 16-17 6-7 51 50 50 48 46 40 42 62 60 36 34 32 30 75 74 64 58 54 52 14 12 11 !

P-O Life 5 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales WALK 6 P-O Life 6 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales REGION T to the Coll del Bast at 139m.to theColl delBastat Here, aboardpromotes Turn the windingroadforabout500m leftandfollow back ontheChemin delaGuillaume. through shrubs, andemerges garrigueandvineyards 595m.frontier at during theSecond World War andclimbs up to the escapees de laLiberté’wasaroutetakenby many Benjamin’.ancient ‘Chemin labelled ‘Walter This sudden steepconcretetrackrisesontheleftcrudely byarightangletotheleftafterwhich,followed a out ofthehamlet, aroundarighthairpinbend ChemindeMasGuillaume descending thenarrow la Cigala. Turn inafewmetres, rightandagain village, a untilitemergesat T junctionwithCamide Fontaine, circularroadthroughthe whichisanarrow are worthexploring. oldest hamletsintheregion, streets whosenarrow climb alongthe Avenue Pierre deMarcatooneofthe the roadtoPuigdelMas. This isasimpleandshort alongside the footbridgeoverdriedupBaillaury bridge crossingtheriverBaillaury. Park, andtake railway Gaulle tothemonumental18thcentury on theseafront, alongthe Avenue duGéneralde 1 eurobus?), theroundabout andturnrightat to PuigdelMas. Goodfootwearisadvised. ColdelBastandthendescendsback on thelevelat Walter Benjamin, stays beforere-joiningaroadthat steep climb alongthebeginningofCheminde gentle climb toPuigdelMas, byashortbut followed P P P Follow thisgoodtrackasitclimbs andwinds As thehillturnstoleft, takethe Avenue dela Head forBanyuls-sur-Mer, (whynottakethe the southofBanyuls-sur-Mer. Itinvolvesa his isacomfortablejauntaroundvalleyto

Banyuls-Sur-Mer

Puig del Mas, Chemin de Walter Benjamin, Col del Bast, Torre d’en Pages 8km (5m) –

The insightintothestructureanddifficulties an immediate over to Tour deMadelocandouttosea. It alsogives the flat, toBanyuls, offeringexcellentviewsdown extreme left track down intothevineyards.extreme lefttrackdown the smallroadtoleft, takingcarenottousethe for thebenefitofmorehumblewalkers, take the Cheminde Walter Benjaminuptothefrontier, but P The narrow lanewindsandhugsthevalleyon The narrow Kate Hiscock With Tedand

2.5 hours back intothe Pages ispassedontherightandroadenters with agradualdescent, thecylindrical Torre d’en about400m. mountaintopsat the spiny Eventually, close vineyards to Joan andsomemoremarvellous verticalrockofPuig thesavage frontier beneath sloping vineyards intheregion. sloping vineyards hassomeofthesteepest The communeofBanyuls nature’s donejustthat. have ravages ductsandwallsonlytofind removed thedrainage in searchofenhancedplantingandyield, have the valleys. Inplaces, farmers somecontemporary endupinthebottomof and vineswouldrapidly channels,murettes andpieddecoqdrainage soil autumnrains.during theheavy Without theterraces, effectivelyandquickly need toremovesurfacewater andinparticular,of theseprecipitousvineyards the P This windinglanepasseswithin2kmofthe railway bridge. railway onto right again Avenue PierredeMarca, backtothe turning rightalongChemindeMasGuillaume, then intothehamletby wind backdown T junction, left forkalongRuedelaCollineauxOliviersand outskirts ofPuigdelMas. Take caretotakethe

Walter Benjamin, (1892 – 1940) was a German philosopher and fierce critic of Nazism, who took his own life in Port Bou while fleeing from the Gestapo

P-O Life 7 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 8 P-O Life 8 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales flavoured withRosemary,flavoured toSpécialeauBanyuls range ofbeersfromBlancheDeGarrigues(4.5%), they’ve obviouslygotitright, withanimpressive 2009, andwithnumerousmedalsundertheirbelts, Voted ‘Meilleure bièreartisanale’inFrance in and purewellwater. quality ingredientsused;malt, wheat, rye, yeast, methods usedarestrictlytraditional, withonly Intermarché in oftheart,Argelès isstate butthe intheZAnear This purposebuiltbrewery aboutabitofbeertastingforchange? but how Y Cap d’Ona: Brewery Beauty in the Eye of the Beer Holder P-O visiting the vineyards forawine visiting thevineyards ‘dégustation’, ou can’tliveorholidayintheP-Owithout

Life or eveningout. like anideal afternoon shady terrace sounds and tapasontheir followed by beertasting disabled access, atouroftheCapd’Onabrewery, With tapasbar, shopandkids’playarea, and ticktheteetotalleranddriverboxes. Catalan Organic, sugarlemonade, low Alter cola, andtonic and 7cereals. fromtheRoussillon cherries fromCéretandapricots wine.Banyuls Seasonalbrewsfeature (6%), alightbeerfortifiedwith

Guided tours every Friday

(+ Saturday in season)

and musical evenings

every Tues, Thurs,

Closed Sunday Open all year.

Fri & Sat. DID YOUKNOW period) hevotedtolopofftheheadof of theNationalConvention, (thenew in theFrenchRevolution, asamember named. Mainlyrememberedforhispart the PlacedeCassanyesinPerpignanis Cassanyes (1758-1843), afterwhom introduction toCanetbornJoseph No, notataleofBritishpubbutan The King’sHead the defenceofRoussillonagainst Louis XVIin1793. administration duringthattroubled Spain inthebattleofPyrenees. prominent figureintheorganisingof Fortunately, his fame intheregion for theguillotine;hewasalsoa was notjustbasedonhisfondness pads onitstoes. Cleverchap. such aswindowsthankstothesticky or evenclingtosmoothverticalsurfaces on itsfeet. Itcanalsostickupsidedown allows ittorotateinafallsothatlands “fifth leg” preventsitfromslippingand region, iscrucialtoitsmovement? This gecko, mostcommonlizardinour Did youknowthatthetailof A lizard’stale DID YOUKNOW

P-O Life 9 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 10 10 Blague Bête P-O Life Un homme dit à un autre: Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales dans l’oreille! Parle plusfort, j’aiunebanane T’as unebananedansl’oreille! Quoi ? T’asunebananedansl’oreille! Quoi ? Hey...t’as unebananedansl’oreille! 26 rue Saint-Ferréol - 66400 Céret // -66400Céret Saint-Ferréol 26 rue voices onthebreeze. close youreyesandlisten, youmighthear There’s notmuchtoseeoutside, butifyou witness tothepast. will remainasitis–acrumblingandsombre minimalist spacesforreflexionbuttheexterior A timeforquietreflexion DID YOUKNOW If youhaveaquiethouror why notvisitCampJoffre so inyourbusysummer, in Rivesaltes?Underthe shadow ofawind-farm, behind anindustrialestate, desolate ruinedhutsand man’s inhumanitytoman. latrines bearwitnessto In June2015, onthe original siteofthisformer concentration camp, a museum willopen. exhibitions, learning The interiorwillhave annexes, andbare 04 3410 2831 & 06 6189 4383

Taking the train this summer? Let’s get you on the right track with Le rail/lavoie–track Un passagesouterrain–underpass Le quai–theplatform Une correspondance–connection Un traindirect– sit theway thetrainismoving Voyager danslesensdutrain– Un carré–4seatsfacing each other Une place(assise)–aseat La salled’attente–waiting room Le guichet –ticket window La gare –station L’arrivée -arrivals Le départ–departure Un panneaud’information–informationdisplay ..aller-retour –return ..aller simple–single ..échangeable –exchangeable ..remboursable –refundable this useful vocab

Un billet …. A ticket

m m Shopofdaysgoneby British produce&gifts Superb rangeofallyourfavourite Discover theEnglishCorner //

If we don’t have it - just ask!

[email protected]

LOC

But you can also say...For MONEY, you learnt ARGENT... WHAT DID YOU LEARN IN SCHOOL TODAY KNOWLE AL IMMOBILIER LEGGETT or Honor on0683756747–[email protected] Donna on:0635223433–[email protected] demand from overseas buyers. you to sellcontact: If are looking We are to for meetthegrowing currently properties looking property success. throughout theP-O,theylookforwardtosharingtheir experience ofbuying,renovating&sellingproperties Between themDonna&Honorhaveover23years www contact :[email protected] orcall0553566254 If youareinterested injoining our propertysalesteam ’ le l i e s l’o blé le ronds les les thunes fric le sous les .leggettfrance.

YOU CAN DGE TR YOUCAN les biftons les pépettes les la caillasse ferraille la mitraille la pognon le com Tel:00 les bifs les flouse le la monnaie balles les les briques cacahuètes des 33 (0 UST )553

5 6 6 6 2 54

11 P-O Life 11 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientalespyrénées Orientales THAT 12 12 12 P-O Life Traditional Catalan fishing boats Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales FEELING

sinking

It was the perfect storm of 1913. A local fisherman, Josep Llanas, was caught off the port of Collioure with his sails torn to shreds as huge waves

M broke over the boat’s bows, flooding the hull. Frantic efforts to bail out were to

backup. safely. takealongaGPSas Doubterscouldalways steerit’swill always skipper andcrewbacktoport isdivinelyblessedand theboat folklore hasitthat where sheisregularlytakenouton regattas. Local Port the mainquayat today mooredat Argeles from commercial vessels. Josep’s canstillbeseen boat combustion enginehadreplacedsail onmostnew tobebuilt,boats forbytheendof WW1 theinternal fishing was tobeoneofthelasttraditionalCatalan convinced, hislife. hadsaved As itturnedout, it carriedthenameofsaintwho,that hewas seaplyinghistradeinanewcraft was backat soon Josep Local fishermenchippedinandvery buy anewrudder. the brightsidehowever, to leasthedidn’thave at withwhichtocontinuehislivelihood.a newboat On insurance, Josepcouldill-affordthecostofbuilding him safelyashore. A poorfishermanwithno hands dragged theharbourwhereeager towards back wooden rudderforbuoyancyJosepwasblown windturnedaroundandclinginghowling tothe thesurface. beneath disappeared Miraculously, the to completethistaskbeforehisstrickenvessel uptohisplumsinfreezingbriny,now justmanaged the sinkingboat’s rudder. mariner, Ourstalwart by toremove responded totheprayerwithamessage fishermen saintofCatalan up andthepatron no avail, and as a final act he prayed to Notre Dame de Consolation (Our Lady of Comfort) for safe deliverance to his maker. conditions that day,conditions that signalreceptionheld- ercifully, weather anddespite theappalling Newman by Simon

“

Local folklore has it that the boat is divinely blessed and will always steer its skipper and crew back to port safely was, respects, inmany ofa designflaw. somewhat this saidthat Collioure fisherman mightwellhave cargo. especiallywhencarrying waves A certain to rise fromthetroughsofdeep stoppingly slow But theirconsiderableweightrendered themheart- hardwoods intheirconstruction.other heavy-duty were exceedingly tough,These boats usingIrokoand sometimes carriedonboard. Gerbilspresumably. little morethansixmetres, livestock weresaidtobe of wine. And amazingly, lengthof givenatypicalboat produce, passengers, andbarrels buildingmaterials not onlyforfishingbutthetransportofharvest wereused boats heyday thesedistinctivelyshaped typicaloftheirrespectiveregions.sail boat In their well astheBalearicllauts, bothtraditionalstylesof clues canbeseenintheMaltesegozzosas from someearlyGreeksailingcraft. Other influence andthereare clear stylingechoes fromNorth dhows Africa certainlylenttheir amongaficionados.keen debate Arab arethesubjectof sailingboat Catalan basin, thedesignrootsoftraditional from the Mediterranean Though originating

” pretty. tosinkunderload,- ponderousandapt butawfully it.So therewehave Traditional fishingboats Catalan andbeyond. Costa Brava the producewouldbetransported lengthofthe in thetown’s mainbay, thetimes when replicating arrives grapes acolourfulfleetcarrying Vine Harvest) October, during theFete de Vendanges (Festival ofthe ofanchovies.preparation Banyuls-sur-MerAnd at in suppliesofsaltused inthe the harbourcarrying la Sal(SaltFestival) sailinto boats severalCatalan today. SeptemberinL’Escala Every theFesta at de worthy andcanbeseeninusethroughouttheregion still remainsea- plentyoftheseoldboats However

P-O Life 13 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 14 P-O Life 14 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales P-O road where the hôtel du Golfe now stands. road where thehôtelduGolfe now the trainstoppedbriefly onthe Argelès-Collioure road wasbuiltfor the occasionalcarsandvans, and From 1947, startedtospringup. theRacouvillage A - butnobody’s complaining. 1957. For now, ispulledfromanearbyfountain water Electricity willarrivein1956, in andrunningwater waitingtobelaunched alongside canoesandkayaks Bicycles andmobylettesliecarelessly inthesand alleysis noisy withchildrenplaying.of narrow T cargolade or fresh fish BBQ. orfresh cargolade sitting downtoacommunal before a pastis,absintheor‘copdeviblanc’ people,laugh,drink,share refugees, together indarkerdaysbySpanish huts andmakeshiftsheltersthrown buzzing. Amidstfishermen’s are sandy tracksoftheRacoubeach It’s 1946.War isover, andthe Collection Jean-Louis ALIBERT Le Racou Beach demolished bytheoccupation, butthelabyrinth been he beachhousesfacingtheseahave

Life 1911 tiny boulangerie fulloflocal treats.tiny buckets andspades, shabbychicbarsandcafés, a beach feel, withshopssellingsaucy postcards, family toretain that Le Racoubeachhas managed So what’s changed? Well, notalotreally. Somehow, petanque… There wasopen-aircinema, dancesunderthestars, literally so drinkscouldstillbeserved ‘on therocks’. Demonte Frères ofElnedeliveredicetwiceaweek 50sahandfulofshopsandcaféopened.In thelate Vide Greniers September. 7th June&13th Live musicanddancing Fête duRacou 24th July >>> 2015 darnedest, butthey’restillhanginginthere. -wind,dilapidation saltandsunaredoingtheir ofgenteel them areinacomfortablyreassuringstate look.on givingthemanalmostshanty-town of Many gentrified even, severalwithcrudeextensionsbolted beendoneup,The originalSpanishexiles’hutshave >>> Avenue de Torre enSorre Collection Jean-LouisALIBERT (on the small roundabout approaching thebeach) (on thesmall roundaboutapproaching Le ValMarie LIVE MUSIC MENUS FROM 15 all season 9am-1am OPEN 7DAYS AWEEK Fun &friendlyfamilyatmosphere GREAT HOMEMADEFOOD Fish &chips, Tex-Mex, Vegetarian Options,Pizza, BBQ INTERNATIONAL CUISINE

Bar & Restaurant opposite the Racou Beach beaches. Argelès tofindoutmoreaboutthelocal Village theCasadel’Alberain at versaire desesplages’ ….visit theexhibition ‘Argelès fêtele150eanni- FROM THEENDOFJUNE…. Racou, Argeles-sur-Mer DID YOUKNOW either a bus or boat back? either abusorboat along thecliffs toCollioureandget youcanwalkfromtheRacou that € 04 6855 4020

P-O Life 15 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales FESTIVAL 16 16 P-O Life 16 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales TRADITIONS

Correfoc

Some

Festival Folklorique

IN THE STREETS ! InternationalInternational I

04 68 83 99 44 Info and reservation:

3rd - 9th August 2015 Amélie-les-Bains to aCorrefocdisplay. fromaformof Originating medieval street theatre called medieval streettheatre ‘Ball deDiables’, these spectacular shows ofdevilsandfireworks these spectacularshows represent the fight of good against evil.represent thefightofgood The Correfocs themselvesarenotmedieval. Spanish dictator Francodictator aspectsofCatalan banned many culture, soafterhisdeath, Barcelonawishedto fill the streets once again withfireandfestivity.fill thestreetsonce Their meaningof “fire runs” saysitall! there’s you’llbetreated agoodchancethat thissummer,f you’reoutandaboutinCatalonia Dressed inredandblack, wearinghornsand masks, ‘colles dediables’danceamongst the crowds amidstloudmusic,the crowds waving sparklers, firecrackers, andspittingfire.

DANCING atmosphere, frightening Great butcanbevery for smallchildren, animalsandtheless adventurous adult! yourhealthand And leave safety training head at theentrance! safety trainingheadat Amongst other usefuladviceduringacorrefoc, the Generalitat de Catalunya suggests... deCatalunya Generalitat “If by any chanceyourclothing“If byany fire, catches throw yourselfonthegroundandrolloverto throw put outtheflames. Aboveall, donotrun, as this willspreadtheflamesandmakethem burn morefiercely”. and

Catalan

Fes

tivals and Traditions & sardanes been prepared in towns and villages allovertheregion. andvillages been preparedintowns andlightthe down “Focs de laSantJoan”, have firesthat The nextday, the relayrunnerscarry ‘flamme duCanigou’ flent. top ofthesacredMountCanigo, visibleallovertheCon- unitystartswithabonfireonthe Another symbolofCatalan > LaTrobada duCanigou andtheFocsdelaSantJoan streets withlittle “big-heads” or “cap-grossos”. hot manorwomaninside, parading anddancinginthe up to14or15fttall, withtraditionalclothing andavery > Gégants-enormouspaintedpapier-maché figures, child,with abrave onacake! abitlikecherry to eightorninestoreyshighandoftentoppedoff > Castells T instruments. band withdoublebassincluding typicalCatalan Music forthesardaneisplayedbya ‘cobla’, awind requires effort, muscle control andcoordination. bitofhop,may looklikeasedate skipandjumpbut but don’tbefooled. This ‘hokey cokey’styledance raised andjoinedtogether, small, precisesteps…… get theminpartymood. Circles withincircles, hands greenand outontothevillage to bringwholevillages dance, believedtobeofGreekorigin, designed circlehe SardaneisatraditionalCatalonian

- humanpyramids, sometimesup andit ' s always greatfun.

Bank holidays Festivities and fireworks throughout France Most shops close (although many large supermarkets remain open, in the morning) Catalan culture from generation togeneration. culturefromgeneration Catalan in beingCatalan, passingonthisimportantpartof up andproclaimed throughtheirdancing, theirpride unity, asfolkfrom allwalksoflife, youngandold, met symbolofnational the dancebecameapowerful the Sardana. inthefaceofadversity,As oftenhappens authority. laws,Amongst otherantiheritage hebanned for independencetobearrogantandinsultinghis Franco wish consideredtheCatalan 1940’sfrom thelate to1975, During hisruleofSpain

·14th July>> Symbol of the absolute power of the monarchy of Louis XVI, the day of the storming of the Bastille was declared a French national holiday in 1880, a

celebration of the birth of the Republic.

·15th August Commemorating the departure of Mary from this School Holidays life and the assumption of her body into heaven.

Return to school (Monday 31st August)

And don’t forget Sunday June 21 is Father’s Day!

Fête de la Bastille (Fête Nationale)

>>Assomption

P-O Life 17 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales LE PETIT CHOU CAFÉ 18 18 18 FOOD P-O Life St Paul de Fenouillet Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales Restaurant reviews The following reviews are not adverts, they are just restaurants that I have enjoyed, or that friends have recommended. They are based on that person’s opinion,

F on that day, usually taking into account the whole package. You might not always necessarily agree! and vegetarians are also well catered for.and vegetariansarealsowellcatered dishes, allcookedtoorder, oftenwithatwist. Kids local speciality 3 coursesfor€15)whichfeatures €10 ortheMenudeJour(2coursesfor€12and I am. For lunch, thePlatduJourat Iwouldhave famished Africain’ forbrunchdependingonhow are:rites ‘ŒufBenedictine’or ‘Petit DejeunerSud Soir. You’ll findlittlegemsineachmenu. Myfavou- four parts, Brunch, LeMidi, Afternoon Tea andLe As theyareopenthroughouttheday, themenuisin foundtherightplace! their free wifi)youhave glass ofwine(andmaybecheckyourmailswith cooked foodorsimplybaskinthesunwithacool tofreshandwell Whether youwanttobetreated staff! the food, thedrinks, andmostofallthe thelocation An accurate descriptionofthewholecaboodle,An accurate resh, Friendly and Absolutely Fabulous!

DRINK

Bon appétit! her specials. Seeyouthere! for dinnerandsomeofRuth’s tasty Tapas oroneof bubbly willkeeptheenginerunning untilit’s time scone orsliceofcake), café, fruitjuicesorsome with eitherthé(FullEnglishteasorjustacheeky A shortbreakintheafternoonsunonterrace

04 68615052 www.lepetitchoucafe.com LE PETITCHOUCAFÉ with Peter Peter with &Mates with Kate 1 *6 MarennesOléronOystersN°3or6Bouzigues Oysters+aglassofCôtesduRoussillonblanc. PLUS, THEFIRSTSUNDAYOFEVERYMONTH PANORAMIC OYSTER BAR NEW FISH SHELLFISH ‘Bistronomic delight’inoursmartOysterBar: every month,treatyourselftoamomentof first Sundayof 12.00 noon,onthe am and Happy HourwithOysters!Between11.00 ytr 6oysters 6 oysters & SEAFOOD FREE* DELICATESSEN

P-O Life 19 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales LE JARDIN DE COLLIOURE 20 20 P-O Life FOOD

Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales

visit to the pretty little art gallery next next gallery art little pretty the to visit

beautiful old building, tastings, and a a and tastings, building, old beautiful

door, following lunch or preceding preceding or lunch following door, 160 vignerons. A guided tour of the the of tour guided A vignerons. 160

the Collioure and Banyuls wines of of wines Banyuls and Collioure the &

and turned into a ‘cave’, stocking stocking ‘cave’, a into turned and

dinner in the ‘Jardin’ is sure to to sure is ‘Jardin’ the in dinner the wine growers of Collioure Collioure of growers wine the

www.cafedesartistes66.com

was bought in 1926 by by 1926 in bought was make a delightful delightful a make

adjoining church church adjoining DRINK

day out. day The The Le Portofino English Spoken Succulent seafood,fish& meat platters, T many indifferentrestaurantsinCollioure. many stands outasbeingalittlebitspecialamongstthe account thewholepackage, formethisrestaurant you wouldexpect–nosurprises–buttakinginto A widechoiceofdessertsisprettymuchwhat There isachildren’s menuat12€ recommend thisrestaurantforvegetarians. it’ssupervise cookingontheBBQ. Idon’tthinkI’d available, fishand andyoucanchooseyourown variety ofotherdishes. Severalothermenusare cargolade ofsnailsifthat’s yourfancy andagood barbecue. The or Catalankebabonthelargeoutdoor grilled du pêcheur withfish, calamariandmussels choicessuchaspantomate,Catalan cassolette The 18€50menuoffersthreecourseswithtypically parking- ararityinCollioure! vaulted interiordiningroom, and YES,…. free anddrinks,tapas ithasoriginalsecretpassages, and theotheracomfortablechic ‘bar àvin’for With twoareas, space onearoomyoutdooreating

Quai ArthurRimbaud, 66750STCYPRIENPLAGE 09 51588955www.leportofino-restaurant.fr Convent istheoldestbuildinginCollioure. ancientDominican his stylishlyrenovated Le Portofino plus home-madedesserts Restaurant Dine overthe Port

28€ menuuppsthegamewitha with Kate with Open allyear 2

Une infusion/tisane-herbaltea coffee. Un décaordécaféiné-decaffeinated small cup. amountofmilkin Un noisette-espressowithtiny steamed milk. Un (grand)crème-espressowithwarmedor Un express -plainblackespresso Un allongé/américain-espressowithextrawater normal amountofwater. ….serré -extra-strongespresso, madewithhalfthe (optional) andwhippedcream …. withicecream Liègeois-icedcoffeeserved ….glacé -icedcoffee Un (grand)café……. Je voudrais... smell the coffee! the smell

café ascoffeewith milk) -butwouldbeunderstoodinany bowl homeinabreakfast at usually beserved (NB Uncaféaulait(milkycoffee)would Wake up and and up Wake unavailable. Take afriendtothe where otheringredientsmaybe rinse…. orurine, alwayshandy Pain canbeeasedbyavinegar visible tentacleswithtweezers. (jellyfish free)seawater. Remove cells sorinseimmediatelyin water willaggravatestinging painful butnotmortal!Fresh Jellyfish stingscanbevery Jellyfish Relief Recipe Jellyfish ReliefRecipe DID YOUKNOW ….s’il vous plait served hotorcold! served jellyfish soup. Revengeisadish blighter….and makeyourselfa cream, buyanet, catchthelittle such asHydrocortisoneeczema apply alightsteroidcream continued swelling, oritchiness, neutralises thetoxins. Ifthereis beach, aspeeingonthesting in onego. youtotestseveralsmall desserts and alsoallows “café gourmand” litlebitoftime- that saves course, cheese, dessert, and coffee, the place ofthetraditionalstarter, main hionable inthe21stcentury. In lunch becomingmorefas- alongside theshorter 2005 andprobablyruns taurants inParis around inres- appeared have mand” isbelievedto The first “cafégour- mousses ). dises’ (minicakesand a selectionof ‘mignar- with - anespressoserved offera now ‘café gourmand’ cafésandrestaurant Many Un cafégourmand

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P-O Life 21 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 22 22 Life FOOD P-O LE REGAL Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales DID YOUKNOW W Friendly, efficientstaffandsmartsurroundings. special offer). (Normally entrecotecarriesa4€supplementbutthiswas of wineandtwonoisettecoffeesthetotalbillwas30.80€. by asubstantialpieceofapplepieandcream . With ademi home madechips , allperfectlycooked. This wasfollowed sized steaksarrivedinagoodmushroomsaucewith -butIwaswrong.maybe asmallmedallionofmeat Ample Tthe maincoursewasentrecotesoIwasn’texpectingmuch, cocktail respectively, both generousandwellpresented. 10.90€.the dayat hot brieandaprawn Ourstarterswere Village, shop. nexttotheflower We orderedthemenuof restaurant onRuedesFaisans, justoutside Argelès thisnew impromptulunchat e stoppedforavery & 66750 ST CYPRIENPLAGE

Le Bounty DRINK 1 quaiArthurRimbaud, Overlooking thePort Try ourtempting range 3-course menu16,00 € of freshfish, meat& Catalan specialities 04 6837 1964 Restaurant

Argelès Village

Aren’t Iamineofuselessinformation? the Latinsalinasfons-saltywatersource. Did youknowthatthewordSalsescomesfrom Chateau desaltywatersource with Malcom with 04 68390960 Argelès-sur-Mer LE REGAL. RuedesFaisans 3

QUALITÉ GOURMANDE ingredients andthespringwater ofthePyrénées. A selection of beers madeusingthe nest ofbeers A selection H Eat in, take away, orhave itdelivered. business. Fun! And tasty! the crepes, ourchoseningredients, and wewerein littlebottleofbatter,own ladle, toflip spatulas flat vegetables withagriddlebroughtto ourtable, our and fillings fromamongaselectionof meats We madeourown ‘crepes sarrazin’, choosing ingredient base. andsaladsfromahelp-yourself wraps your own ofpastawillcostyou5€90ormakeup A plate for just8€90…orourchoice ofDIYpancakes! ‘Lasagne bolognaisemaisonavec sasaladeverte’ as ‘couscousavec merguez, bœufetpoulet’or dujour(changes daily)such asimpleplat can have With achangingmenubasedonlocalproduce, you museum inCeret. little restaurantroundthecornerfrommusic

restaurant? That’s wedidinthiscasual what ow aboutcreating yourown crèpe inaCéret with Elaine with

of Paris. on thestreets! poor starved pagne whilstthe a halfofcham- with abottleand ham, washeddown poached eggsandasliceof consisted of4chops, afullchicken, six to understandwhy, knowingthattheking’s breakfast monarchy, andthe startoftheFrenchRepublic. Easier French Revolutionof1789, leadingtotheendof Le 14juillet, BastilleDay, marksthebeginningof Big Breakfast DID YOUKNOW 04 68569616. 6, d’Espagne, avenue Céret. QUALITÉ GOURMANDE 4

P-O Life 23 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 24 24 FOOD P-O Life MEZZO MEZZO Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales W They also specialise in tapas soagoodstopforsnack.They alsospecialiseintapas under thetables. friendly, dogsseemedtobewelcomeandwerehiding topped withChantilly–nottoosweet. was The service a freshanddeliciousflanwithcoconutbase, custardand carrots andtomatoes, bythedessertofday, followed withcrispycrushedpotatoes,served honeyturnips, chose thefishofdayforourmain, wholedorade and razorclams whichwerebeautifullycooked. We both almonds, parcelleduplikeacrepe, andLeighhadmoules cheesesaladwithhoney&toasted with atastygoats glad westopped. Choosingthe€19.50Menu, Istarted look ofthemenuinMezzoandwereso Wandering alongtheportat Argeles, welikedthe &

DRINK

Argelès Port

and Merry Merry and with Leigh Leigh with 04 68888125 Argelès-sur-Mer 8 quai Vasco deGama,

Melon Gaspacho Melon

e Water Simple

I G > saltandpeppertotaste > 2tbspfreshchoppedparsley > 1jalapeno(ortotasteifyoulike > 1tbspoliveoil > 2tbsplemonjuice > 1smallonion, chopped > 1redoryellowbellpepper, diced > 1cucumber > Approx3cupsofwatermelon, Ingredients: N

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P chilled Serve combine, andstirwellbeforeserving. leastonehour,Chill forat to flavours toallow pepper, totaste. andmixwell.a largebowl Add moresaltand Combine withremainingmelonandparsleyin and pureeuntilsmooth. or foodprocessor. Add oliveoilandlemonjuice pepper, inablender onionandallofthejalapeno Place abouthalfofthewatermelon, cucumber,

I G fresh, light, and cool on a hot this Watermelon Gazpacho,

N What better season to try A N : 0 4 6 P-O summer day! 8

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P-O Life 25 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 26 26 P-O Life FOOD Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales > 2Cupslemonadeorsodawater > 1Shotbrandyorrum > 2Tbspsugar > Juiceof1largelemonandanotherinslices > Juiceof1largeorangeandanotherinslices redwine > 1bottleofdry Ingredients: recommended Reservations Reservations Delicious GrilledLambChops Traditional Catalancookingin & CôtedeBoeuf aspeciality strongly a charmingcountrysetting “La Costelle”

& Situated between FourquesSituated &Llauro RESTAURANT 04 68 3881 51

DRINK 66300 TORDERES

Of course, there are so many different possibilities for sangria but here is a basic

recipe on which to build Simple Sangria Sangria Simple (behind the PlacedeMarbre -oppositethe Tabac)

all things Catalan! DELICATESSEN &OFF-LICENCE Preparation: You couldalsoadd..... Add lemonadeorsodajustbeforeserving. overnight.Refrigerate stirring well. orjug,lemonade orsodainalargepunchbowl Combine alltheingredientsexceptfor it abitmore orrumtogive shot ortwoofginmorebrandy ches, freshblueberries, raspberries, kiwi, anda Salud!

Specialising in Place ErikSatie,66750 STCYPRIENPORT 04 6837 0139www.traiteur-stcyp.com ‘olé’! AP COLOR AP

sliced stra PLICA ZARZUELA, FIDEUA... DELICIOUS PAËLLA, Take away bottled orstraightfrom thebarrel! at winegrowers’prices High qualityRoussillonwine all home-cookedinfrontofyou TION wberries, pea- PLICA COULEU BLAC TION & Open 7/7 LA COLLECTION R &NOIRETBL NOIR &BLANC FOND BLANC WH K AND BEAUX HÔTELS RESTAURANTS N : 00 N :84 J M :100 :35 C N : 60 N :10 J M :10 :100 C ANC ITE B : 0 B V : 127 : 238 R B : 89 B V : 119 : 0 R DES AUBERGES COMPAGNIE ORUS N : 00 N :100 J M :60 :00 C N : 19 N :68 J M :25 :84 C RESTAURANT LEFANAL FOND COULEUR Gastronomic cuisineparexcellence. Gastronomic Exciting newflavours.Thefinest ingredients. Fortheultimatein unusual, superb-tastingdishes GRANDE TABLEGRANDE in tunewiththeseasons. 66650 -Banyuls surmer www.pascal-borrell.com B : 57 B V : 125 : 68 R : 92 B V : 39 : 111 R 17 Avenue du Fontaulé Tel : 0468986588 PRIVÉES DEMEURES CARACTÈRES N : 17 N :17 J M :34 :71 C : 45 N :0 J M :85 :40 C

P-O Life 27 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 28 28 P-O Life FOOD Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales Open all year - 7 days aweek Menus from 18,50€

DRINK Set an unforgettabled int and howyouwouldlikeitcooked! Situated along fromtheTouristOffice, he cloistersofaf Fish isthespeciality,widerangeof www.restaurant-saint-sebastien.com 10 avduFontaulé,66650Banyuls-Sur-Mer on the road parallel totheseafront For Zarzuela,Bouillabaisse, 16 quPierreForgas,66660PortVendres grilled fishàlaplanxa … 4 rted www.lejardindecollioure.com 1 rueArago,66190 Colliure 04 6882 16 10 Choose yourfish 04 68951252 04 68552264 04 68820139 Reservations recommended meat dishes+tapas e Port V www.chezpujol.com ining end ormer D res, 66190 experience insideorout ominican Convent, Col lioure jamais finir12morceaux. En 6s’ilvousplait.Jenepourrais monsieur? coupée en6ou12morceaux, Voulez vousvotrepizza DID YOUKNOW for snakebites! Get thetreacleout were probablyalittlelessdessert-like! snakebites, andotherailments, althoughtheingredients ‘triacle’, treacle wasactuallyanantidoteforpoisons, When itoriginallyenteredEnglishfromOldFrench word

P-O Life 29 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales OUT 30 P-O Life 30 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales THE DAY S details.) to thegraffiti-coveredstructure. (Seeinsetformore back acrossthebridgeandheadup thestepsnext Rodès andoverthe Têt River. Onceparked, stroll streetsof Manoeuvre yourcarthroughthenarrow young kidsonaleash! alarming speed, sokeepwater-mad dogs andvery hurlspastat the walkaren’tfencedoffandwater summer’sis perfectforasweltering day. Parts of almost ever-present canopyofleaves, thispicnic inthecanalandan With coolmountainwater regal name. was constructedby Arabs longbeforeitreceivedits the “Sequia Realde Thoyr” Canalof – Royal Thuir – region’s canals. earliestknown According tolegend,

waterways have stories to tell.thundering torrents, our region’sWhether whispered murmurs or ges delaGuilleraaretheremainsofoneour naking alongthecliffs ofthespectacularGor-

Pretty Perfect P-O Picnics

for irregular stones. The aqueduct’s classification as pretty niftyengineering, height, great at andwith montane forover a thousandyears, thanksto some crumble andyethas withstoodfloodsandthe Tra- old aqueduct, Pont d’enLabau. to Itlooksready like fingers, butthehighlight ofthewalkis Spindly pillarsoftheoriginalcanal clutch thecliff roaringpast.sheer forceofsomuchwater the storey building!Stopforamoment to imagine levels. The highestonereaches14metres–afive- Long verticalbarsontheleftbankmeasurewater silver-white bycenturiesofpoundingwater. the pearlysheenofriverbedrocks, polished gorge. Notforthosewithafearofheights!Notice the stomach-clenching dramaoftheplunging Peer overthesimplerust-redfenceandexperience gly stable, times. ramshackleitlooksat givenhow mostoftheway,The walkwayisflat andsurprisin- yourside. Canal humsquietlyat inthevalley,boisterously down whiletheCorbère sounds willcoolyoudown: the Têt Riverdrums nately, hotitis, how nomatter ofwater asymphony fierce 28degreeswhenwestartedourwalk. Fortu- It was11am, notacloud in thesky, a andalready Katja Willemsen With

Footnote:

after lunch, the feeling energetic canal walk can be continued by following the path that runs parallel to the river. and goforaswim! Time tokickoffyourshoes, releasedogsandkids, ofthe green water Têt River. asteepcementroadtothejade then turnleftdown canal.irrigation Keepthenextorchardonyourright tree markswhereyoucrossasmallbridgeoverthe you reacha “casot” orsmallcabin. An ivy-choked your right, continuealongthedoublesandtrackuntil Keeping the Têt Riveronyourleftandtheorchard tural landandresiststealingthefarmer’s fruit! peach orchards. Pleaserememberyou’reonagricul- thesandtracktoabeautifuldetouralong and follow blocked byafence. cementbridge Crossthenarrow After aboutfortyminutesofwalking, is thepath Canal onthesaferrightbank. oftheCorbère was eventuallyabandonedinfavour ofthePalacemoats oftheKingsMajorcan, butit later, andtextilemills, wheat itpowered andfilledthe fields,wheat andolivegroves. vineyards Decades In the11thcentury, Canalof theRoyal Thuir irrigated dame. this fragile and urgentplansareafoottoprotectstabilise historic monumentdidn’tcomeamomenttoosoon,

for those

Bon appétit! to thesmallgraffiti-coveredbuilding. plant thenstrollbackacrossthebridgeandupstepsnext purification > Driveoverthebridgeandparknexttowater ontheotherside. until youexitthevillage with atree: keeptotheright, themountain headingtowards > isn’tclearThe onlytimethesignage asmallsquare isat > Follow “Gorges deGUILLERA” signsthroughthevillage. ofRodès. village > LessthantenminutesafterIlesur Têt, turnrighttothe > HeadsouthfromPerpignan PradesontheN116. towards lling butlongerifyouwishtowalkfurtherthanthepicnicspot. > Time neededforwalk: anhourandahalfofeasystro- allow HOW TOGETTHERE signs). (CrossN116fromRodèsthenfollow extensive ex-votocollectioniswellworthavisit. > Rodès perchedonarockycrestabovethevillage. > Our walkisnexttothemore “recent” CorbèreCanal. de Thoyr” Canalof –Royal Thuir, canbeseenontheleftbank. canals.ral irrigation Vestiges oftheoriginalcanal, “Sequia Real >This sectionofthe Têt from Riverflows VinçaDamintoseve- ABOUT RODÈSANDTHEGORGESDELAGUILLERA The Ermitage de Domanova with its Time deDomanovawithits tospare?TheErmitage de Feeling Chateau energetic?Hikeuptothe11thcentury

A wolf cult, kidnapped child, and the Tour de Massane create high tension in Shepherd’s Prayer, a fast- paced thriller set in Collioure.

Available on Amazon

P-O Life 31 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales OUT 32 P-O Life 32 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales THE DAY Good Luck to the Little Yellow Train L ‘Transpyrénéen’ (Paris-Toulouse-Barcelona). where passengers can linkupwiththe deCarol(1230m), toLatour rising again descending toBourg-Madame (1143m)and (427m) tothecoldelaPerche (1592m), before from Villefranche-de-Conflent continuously It isthehighestrailway track inFrance, rising the plain. to andvillages tolinkthemountaintowns century thebeginningof treasurewasbuiltat Catalan Painted coloursof’sang intheCatalan etor’, this best dumpedinamuseum. track riskbeingdismantledandabandoned-orat andmodernise,required torenovate trainsand Without investmentofawhopping125millioneuros 2016.in January Latour-de-Carol in the Cerdagne, it could be now or never! itcouldbe nowornever! intheCerdagne, Latour-de-Carol and which windsitswaydailybetweenVillefranche-de-Conflent takenatriponthelittlemountaincanary, If youhaven’talready identity, isindanger ofclosing forgood down e Petit Train Jaune, symbolofCatalan powerful

for including Gisclard himself. crashed violentlyintorocks. Sixmenwerekilled failed duringthetrain’s firsttrialrun, andthetrain accidentwhenthebrakes the sceneofatragic and completedin1909. sameyear, Inthat itwas line,railway built80mhighoverlookingaprecipice, Frenchis theonlysuspensionbridgeinuseonany 65 metreshighabovetheriver Têt. LePont Gisclard of Thuès-Carança, wascompletedin1908, andsits builders. Le Viaduc Séjourné, justbeyondthestation you passovertheviaducts, bothnamedaftertheir foronce,the scenery theviewsarespectacularas A chanceforthecardrivertositbackandenjoy jaune. manufactured therewasthewhistleforpetittrain products. Infact, oneofthefirstcommercialobjects for thefiringofceramics, andbronzealuminium mirrors, touseasolarfurnace andthefirstcompany furnace intheworld, anenormousconstructionof1420 orvisitthefirstsolar ramparts ofthisquaintlittletown surrounding hills. Walk aroundtheperfectlypreserved home totheFrench Commandoswhotraininthe in will bringyoutothehighestfortifiedtown France, to MontLouis. A 20minuteuphillwalkfromthestation Drive to Villefranche deConflentandtakethetrainup Camper Van Motor bike Car gsimce@[email protected] [email protected] Special rates forseniorcitizens No medicalquestionnaires tofillin Transfer your UKno-claimsbonus from Villefranche. Singlefare 10,70€ Trains leavesat8h55and9h58 entertainment, chat….. food),BBQ (bringyourown La Cabanasse. at theGaredeMontLouis Support theTrain Jaune Fête du Train Jaune Saturday 6thJune Holiday Rental 2nd Home House Protection Plans Business

for all new policiestakenout for allnew insurance free ofcharge 3 months’ health Insurance

Health

last chance, so not to be missed! missed! be to not so chance, last

great experience, possibly your your possibly experience, great

can be long in summer, but a a but summer, in long be can

tion!) and queues for tickets tickets for queues and tion!)

TGV – Train à Grande Vibra- Grande à Train – TGV

that you are travelling on the the on travelling are you that

ver may tell you with a smile smile a with you tell may ver

in the world, (the friendly dri- friendly (the world, the in Not the smoothest train journey journey train smoothest the Not Life Insurance Savings Insurance Travel

P-O Life 33 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales

34 34 34 P-O Life AN Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales

DAY OUT

unforgettable

Port Vendres I have acoffeeandcroissantbeforeboarding. have easy aroundtheportsothisgivesusachanceto early inPort Vendres althoughparkingisusually 11.15am.for itsdepartureat We arrive always necessary, givingusallalaughfromtimetotime. inFrench,a runningcommentary andEnglishif along theroute, Bernard, the ‘animateur’, provides we dropanchoranhourorsoaftersettingoff. All Béarandfinallyintothebayof Cap Paulilles where theycallit!) prefer thefrontend(orwhatever One’s area, firstpriorityistofindasunbathing We by thecrewenmasse-allthreeofthem! a magnificentcatamaran. andbarbecueon for acruise often withourhouseguests, Vendres, up atPort we turn year,atleastonce, Every To beginwith, wechugalongthecoast round Then offwego, beenwelcomed aboard having can joinit2hoursearlierifyoulike)intime t comesinundersailfromCanet(whereyou

of Paulilles

to the bay With Pam Naylor Johnand For furtherinformation, visit www.navivoile.com

happy. A superdayout. calmandrelaxing. wet! Butnormallyitisvery netsupfrontgetmorethanalittle the sunbathing shorethepeopleon we eventuallyturntowards this stage, however, iftheseaischoppyandwhen pressive. providessomeamusement at Italways onlyinthisdirection.using windpower Very im- outtosea,hour orsobeforewesetsailagain round. We love it highspiritsandlotsoflaughsall fails togenerate convivialandnever area inthemaincabinisvery plus wine, andcoffee. water The smartdining andsaladswithachoiceofpuddings,cold meats plusanabundanceof grilled fishandsausages forthebarbecuetofollow.preparation generally warmandtheexerciseprovidesgood Snorkels andgogglesareavailable. is The water younger passengerssimplyjumpinfromthedeck. theback. butthereisalsoaslideat boat A few thefrontof viaaladderat into thewater tend tousethemoregenteelwayofdescending whilst thecrewfinaliseluncharrangements. We sangria withnibbles. Then backintotheseaagain –aprettygood before launchingintoouraperitif stunning backdrop. rant intheforegroundand Alberes forminga loped SitedePaulilles andthe OSoleMiorestau-

We 16:30, arrivebackat bronzed, revivedand foran again andsunbathing Then swimming This isasplendidaffair, usuallywithgambas, thisstage There isjusttimeforaquickdipat abeautifulsettingwiththenewlydeve- What

September 20th September 15th June to to

11h30, 11h30, tours Guided daily at at daily

Off season Off by appointment appointment by

Tel: 04.68.54.27.53 Tel:

Visit the fort from from fort the Visit

18h30 10h30 to 16h 16h 14h30 and or bookatourquayside [email protected] or Port Vendresor +33 (0)623206976 Sail from Canet ticket booths

P-O Life 35 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales OUT 36 P-O Life 36 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales THE DAY...

…in Arles-sur-Tech for Arles-sur-Tech isourhome……. the Tres Ventsthe Tres andtheHaut and weloveit!Glimpsesof Vallespir the asIapproach village still make my heart sing. sing. village stillmakemyheart see when you drive through see whenyoudrivethrough villageisn’twhatyou The ‘real’ the rather uninviting one-way the ratheruninvitingone-way to Prats-de-Mollo. Instead, to Prats-de-Mollo.Instead, system onyourway, perhaps, venture into the heart of the ofthe intotheheart venture the Abbey, the Moulinand village tothemedievalcentre, maybe on to Les Glycines for maybe ontoLesGlycinesfor a tastylunch. S exit and park at theSalledesFêtesexit andparkat about200 metres alongontheleft. With theSallebehind Glycines, thetopofslightincline andat you, goleftandtakethe2ndturning, Ruedes to yourrightisthehotel/bar/restaurantof their wisteria-covered terrace and perhaps their wisteria-coveredterraceandperhaps same namejustrightforarevivingcoffeeon lunch a bit later on. lunch abitlater past theSparanduphill;facingyouare Turn theroad leftoutofLesGlycinesandfollow lovely Mairiegardensandthebeautiful building the receptionhallandSalledeMariage. houses theMairie–popinandsee which now Information Office.Information (Atthetimeofwritingthis opposite theMairieis Diagonally Tourist has decampedtemporarilyintothe Abbey signposted.) You pickupavillage cannow andisclearlyCloisters afewsteps away street map andthe street map ‘Visite de la Ville’ leaflet which will takeyouonawalking tour the village from the village Amelie, takethe2nd o,approach thefirstroundaboutasyou at Polly Cannie With

displays whichtakeplaceinthegardensbehind you couldcoincideyourvisitwithoneofthefalconry on the Tourist website beforeyoucome, Information skilledartists,very craftsmenand women. Ifyoulook displaying (forsale)thebeautifulworkofoveradozen textileloomsandalargeexhibitionhall old Catalan including potters, workers, leather ironworkers, the summer). Herearetheworkshopsofseveralartisans daythroughout to LeMoulin(open10til7every and facingyou50metresfurtheronistheentrance then straightonforjustover200metres, bearleft, toyourleft,lane immediately thebottom, turnrightat in thearea–stockupwhileyoucan. takethe Now makers ofallegedlythemostfamous ‘rousquilles’ again, andnexttothetabacisPatisserie Touron, Turn rightandgotothetopofstreet, turnright gourmand ice-creamconcoctions, hardtoresist! very adeliciousselectionof todaytheyhave on theagenda courses for€13.50andthree€15. Iflunchisnot offer consistingoffourchoicesforeachcourse, two on ahotsummer’s day. menuison An appetising outsideterracewhichisparticularlyappealing shady barandrestaurant,with theirattractive butitisthe start madeagreat refurbishing thehotelandhave proprietors andPatricia Genotaregradually Thierry toLesGlycinesforlunch?New Perhaps returnnow tour ofthe ‘centre historique’. cloisters willthenstartyouoffontheshortwalking recently refurbishedPlaceduCouventjustbeyondthe August) andseethemysteriousSainte Tombe. The Sainte Maried’Arles, (openfrom9til7inJulyand consider aguidedtouraroundtheXthCentury Abbey, of thehistoriccentre. Beforesettingoffthough, which weresurely responsiblefortheirplight. sinsofthevillagers,balance outthemany the relicsofaSaint wereneededto In despair, the abbot of Arles, Arnulfe, decided that crops. anddestroying pillaging from themountains,men’ camedown raping, terrorised Arles-sur-Tech.singes’ These‘monkey etmêmeàdes assez semblablesàdeschats century, theinfamous Simiots, ‘bêtes féroces According tolegend, around aboutthetenth and hand outtopilgrims. with silverpump the monkssiphon outthewater since, defying scientificexplanation. Onceayear ever supposedly stored hasrunwithpurewater “La Sainte Tombe” inwhichtheirboneswere restored. barrel. andpeacewas The Simiotsdisappeared Rome, hiddeninthefalse-bottom ofaliquor bylionsinthe saints whowereeaten Arena of relics of Abdon andSennen, obscurePersian He journeyedtoRomeandreturned withthe very goodforacoolingpaddle.very flowing Tech. Thereareacoupleoflittlebeachareas Buis ‘guinguette’ withapicnicareaalongsidethefast past therugbygroundtorefurbishedFontaine des thenewbridge,Mollo forakilometreandturnleftat more time, de Prats towards driveoutofthevillage bring youbacktocarpark. alittle Ifyouhave theMoulin,On leaving turnrightandashortwalkwill popular. Moulin throughoutthesummerandwhicharevery

in the area” “the most rousquilles’ famous ‘

P-O Life 37 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 38 P-O Life 38 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales P-O DID YOUKNOW during thisperiodbythe’Terrorists”. Up to40,000peoplewereguillotined ture, andintimidation. assassination ’Terrorists”, duetotheirtacticsoftor- under Robespierrewerereferredtoas of Terror(La Terreur, 1793-1794) lution) whoenforcedtheFrench Reign oftheRevo- (the newadministration Convention oftheNational The agents government. of Terror bytheRevolutionary initiated Revolution, andreferredtotheReign up around1795duringtheFrench The word’terrorist’actuallysprung Word Origins:Terrorist “Comme sonpère!“ La jeunemèrerépond: Une foiscouchéilnebougeplus”. “Votre bébéestunvraipetitage. l’infirmière ditàunejeunemère: Dans unematernité, Tel pèretelfils cambrioleur -burglar) (on devrait-one should Non, jesuiscambrioleur. êtes médecin? Ah oui.Bonconseil.Vous ouverte. temps dormirlafenêtre On devraittoutle

Life 1 avdes Tilleuls66400 CERET (nearest carparkLes Marronniers) 04 6887 [email protected] P 24/7 INSURANCE · INVESTMENT·BANK erpignan M Friendly adviceandsupportinEnglish illas Car bootsales sell at very low prices. low very sell at from theword “brader” meaningto similar ideatoavidegrenier, comes ‘empty yourattic’, whilsta ‘braderie’, as ‘Vide-grenier’ litterallytranslates FRANCE at atimewhenyouneeditmost. DID YOUKNOW –I www. maisonguizard.fr –C lle- abestany s Tél: 0468513020 ur- Funeral Directors English-Speaking

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P-O Life 39 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales READERS 40 40 P-O P-O Life Life in the pyrénées Orientales Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales PHOTOS

around the P-O. We love seeing them so please do keep ‘em coming!

Some great summer photos from Philip Jones Life

Veronica wardell

Peter Spencer u o y k n a h t readers!!

Steve Bumphrey

Paul Smith

Vicky Rose

XXXx

Eva hodneland

P-O Life 41 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales OUT 42 P-O Life 42 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales THE DAY

for

As you drive along the voie rapide between Argelès and Collioure, the Disneyesque turrets of the Château de Valmy rise out of the vineyards like a fairytale. W Pierre commissionedtheDanish Architect Viggo Dorph-Petersen, forhisextravagant wellknown Belle Epoquestyle, foreachof tobuildachâteau his threechildren. For hissonJustin, inCéret, d’Aubiry Chateau for his daughterCamille, DucupStPaul Chateau in Perpignan, andforhisdaughterJeanne, recently married toJulesPams, de Château Valmy. Her portrait hangstodayinthesalononfirstfloor. ture andthewinesof Valmy gracedthetablesof royalty. noheirs. JulesandJeannediedleaving In 1930, Victor Piex, awealthydistiller, bought the château, andthedomaineprospered. After his death in1952,his death desertedbychildrenand grandchildren, property theoncemagnificent Jules Pams becameFrench Ministerof Agricul- started todeteriorate... emptyrooms, leaking roof….. took upthechallenge, newlife breathing into vineyards andchâteau. into vineyards the inventionofJOBcigarettepapers, hisson hen JosephBardoumadehisfortunefrom The Château de The Château Valmy wasturnedintoachic guest house, peaceful, andpicturesque, with five graciousensuiterooms, lookingout In 1997, Victor Peix’s grandsonandfamily across the vines and down tothesea. across thevinesanddown 2013, withendlessviewsover theperfectly manicured vineyards. The rangeof Valmy wines runs from a delicate white,wines runsfroma delicate vinified in oakbarrels, throughrosé, arangeof A smartnewtasting openedin ‘cave’ well, what’s nottolike? with spectacularviewsoverthevinesandsea- their lastyear. this spectacular show ofbirdspreyinfreeflight.this spectacularshow de Valmy (www.lesaiglesdevalmy.com) watching cal hourwiththecharmingfalconersof Aigles family ofstorkslivingintheparkorspendamagi- the impressive mentiontheviews?Enjoy I already pleasant ramble, forthekids……oh, great anddid andrestaurant,new facilitiesofthecave butit’s a lesschicthantheimmaculate isallrather waterfall play andpicnicarea, trails, nature fountainsand through andenjoy. This councilrunparkwithcafé, of Argelès, freeandopenforthepublictostroll bytheCommune within thegroundsareowned by descendantsof Victor Peix, sixhectaresofland Whilst the Chateau and vineyards are still owned arestillowned andvineyards Whilst theChateau Sadly, duetofinancialconstraints, thiscouldbe Butthere’s moreto Valmy thanwineandfood. And really, prettyterrace dining onthat balanced naturally sweet wine. sweet balanced naturally reds tol’Orde Valmy, abeautifully Taste beforechoosingwine inthecave with yourmeal, becausein2014, La Table de Valmy openeditsdoors, it wasterrific’, wrotethereviewer. the generalambiance, wethought the view, thewine, thefoodand stylish restaurant, for showcase a completepackage, thelocation, last editionofP-OLife. ‘Taken as Valmy wines, andreviewedinthe conditions inthecamp. thepitifulliving taries andworksofartshowing along withhistoricalfrescos, televisiondocumen- clippingspaper period, andothermediafromthat explains theSpanishCivilwarviaancientnews- the Franco regimein1939. beaches of Argelès of200,000Republicansfleeing bition oftheRetirada, andtheinternmenton exhi- fascinating you willfindasmallbutrather Openallyearround, thispermanentexhibition On thefirstfloor, nexttotheentrancepark,

Several events take place at the Chateau during the year; flower show, antiques festival, pop concerts, and the park closes when hosting large-scale events.

www.chateau-valmy.com 43 P-O Life 43 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientalespyrénées Orientales Or justgoandenjoy! petanque pitches! astrollaroundthe advice wouldbetoavoid readily available. IfyournameISFanny, my or sculpture, Fanny’s toensurethat bottomis intheformofapicture,substitute available Fanny ontheboulespitch, thereisusuallya Fanny. Sinceitisquiteraretofindanobliging girlcalled she hastokissthebottomofany to 0… “il estfanny” (he’s andheor fanny) rules ofpetanque, whenaplayerloses13 or evenfromawheelchair. According tothe disabled, asitcanbeplayedstandingstill andthe therheumatic to accommodate boulevariations,sedate so deliberately DID YOUKNOW Get yourboulesout! is apparently oneofthemore is apparently Did you know that that Did youknow a smallcircle. It the word ‘Pétanque’ the comes from Marseilles dialect ‘pès tancats’ or ‘pès tancats’ ‘pieds tanqués’, meaning literally ‘feet anchored’, as thefeet must remain close together within quite Tues, Thurs,Fri-9.00am6.00pm Mon -2.00pm7.00pm Sat -9.00am4.00pm CLOSED Weds&Sun www.tpm66.com > TOTAL PROJECT MANAGEMENT > BILINGUAL ORGANISATION OF RENOVATION

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P-O Life 45 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales TEST 46

46 1

(Why not try to work them out first just from thedefinitions?) toworkthemoutfirstjustfrom (Why nottry with A,theirdefinitions. allbeginning Match upthewords, A

P-O Life red-handed (To becaught)intheact, En flagrantdélit Expression Useful Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales

arc-en-ciel FRENCH ausculter autr aveugle attentat ardoise atterrir affiche asticot See Page67 for answers aviron pour Attention! efois

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 the final week semaine la dernière last week la semainedernière Language tip j i h g f e d c b a

un verblanc qui nevoitpas plaque depier se poseràter grande feuilleimprimée bande lumineusemulticolor spor dans lepassé tentative pourassassiner vérifier lasanté t dansbateaulongetléger re

Useful grisfoncé re expression flabby thighs! Culottes de cheval your

tongue (virelangue) and three little rawtrout) and three littlecooked trout (Three crues petitestruites trois cuiteset petites truites Trois times Repeat quicklythree OMG! or disbelief? Want surprise toexpress Tout le monde est un Great quote Putain! Punaise! Purée! Dis donc! Hou là Oh lavache Oh là(pause)! Oh là génie. Mais si vous jugez un poisson sur ses capacités à grimper dans un arbre, il passera sa vie à croire qu’il est stupide... Einstein (genie – genius grimper – climb croire – believe)

twister (vulgar)

Il faut casser le noyau pour avoir l’amande. The following expressions all use the verb ‘casser’ – to break. Can you find their English equivalents?

Encore une

Un monsieur demande deux places pour aller au théâtre. C’est pour Roméo et Juliette? demande la caissière? Non, c’est pour ma femme et moi. méli-mélo jumble, mish-mash, eg Au vide grenier il y a un méli-mélo d’objets… Nice word

The following expressions all use the adjective ‘bon/bonne’. Can you match them up with their English equivalent?

Bon

Bonne

Bonnepromenade

Bon r Bonne jour blague bête Bonbons. rétablissement Bon débar

Bonne sieste!

Il me casse les bonbons continuation Casser la gueule à … Bon courage eniflement

Bon r Bon séjour

Casser le mor

Un casse-cr C’est un casse-cou

née Un casse-tête etour ras

A tout casser

Je me casse 1

4 Casse-toi 5 6 7 8 9 10 oûte

ceau a b c d e f g Happy sniffing (for dogs) h Enjoy your nap

i Safe jour j Blague bête Hang in ther 1 Enjoy your walk 2 Comment s’appelle le frère de Albert Einstein? Have a nice stay 3 Get well soon 4 Good riddance 5 Have a nice day

6 Enjoy the r 7 8 9 10

a b c d e f g h i T j puzzle or brain teaser He’s a pain in the neck

I’m of o smash someone’s face in He’s a dar ney home No pain, no gain Get lost! o give the game away At the ver A snack

Franck.

e est of…

edevil

y most

Iamlostinyoureyes Doyouhaveamap? takingoff? my heart nearbyorisit anairport Is there décolle? coin ouest-cemoncœurque dansle Y a-t-ilunaéroport myheadallday! through running You you’vebeen mustbetired, toute lajournée. dansmatête que tuastrotté fatigué(e)parce Tu doisetre the skyandputtheminyoureyes? Stop thief!Whostolethestarsfrom danstesyeux? mettre les étoilesducielpour Au voleur!Quiapristoutes Heaven? when youfellfrom Did ithurt tombée duciel? Ca t’afaitmalquandtues myself. I’d betterintroduce Do youkissstrangers?No?Then Donc, jemeprésente. inconnus? Non? Est-ce quetuembrassesles afewmore are Here Hey…it’s justabitoffun. for yourtrouble probably agoodslap on thebeach...and phrases tofindlove give youafewuseful Every summer,we tesyeux dans Jemesuisperdu Avez vous un GPS? vousunGPS? Avez

! 47 P-O Life 47 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientalespyrénées Orientales AMELIOREZ 48 P-O Life 48 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales Don’t countyourchickensbefor

See Page67 for answers votre

Interesting question…. have youdone? and succeed,which tofail, If youtry The appledoesn’tfallfarfr 1 Give aninchandhe’lltakeamile The guiltydogbarkstheloudest A leopar Hisbarkisworsethanhisbite

Trouvez l’équivalent en anglais pour chaque proverbe ‘animalier’ français Beggars can’tbechoosers Il utilise beaucoup d’expressions àdoublesens Il utilisebeaucoupd’expressions Heusesalotofdoubleentendres When theBritstalkFrench…

Give andyouwillr ANGLAIS d can’tchangehisspots Better safethansor Ever e they’re hatched e they’re y littlehelps om thetree eceive

2 (Why not try to work them out first just from thedefinitions?) toworkthemoutfirstjust from (Why nottry E. commencent tousaveclalettre lesdéfinitionsdesmotssuivants, qui Trouvez ry

eavesdr

expensive

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 E enough ear edible elated elbow enjoy eagle j h g e d c b a i f

wig evil l’avoir tué. Il nefautpasvendr Souris quin’aqu’untr C’est lapoulequichanteafaitl’œuf Les chiensnefontpasdeschats Il fautsavoirdonnerunœufpouravoirbœuf Faute degrives,onmangedesmerles. Petit àpetit,l’oiseaufaitsonnid Qui voleunœufbœuf. Chien quiaboienemor Qui naîtpouleaimeàcaqueter op is for Egg

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

j i h g f e d c b a theamountneeded suitableforeating longbodiedinsect very happy very really bad really

bird ofprey bird listen secretly listensecretly haveagoodtime notcheap

joint inmiddleofar e lapeaudel’oursavant ou est bientôt prise. ou estbientôtprise. d pas d pas Is there another another Is there

Reflections synonym? . .

word for for word m

Funny regional expressions

tongue M&S (plural) M&S (plural) at English: Iboughtmytrousers :MescheveuxSONTblonds(plural) French Eng: MyhairISblonde(sing) (virelangue) :J’aiachetéMONpantalonàM&S(sing) French black bearbledblood a bigblackbear,andthe A bigblackbugbit Ils sontcommeça,lesgens as folk(Yorkshire) There’s nowtsoqueer Ça n’ariend’extraordinaire! about! It’s nothingtowrite home Expression utile

twister Language tip

He gotuponthewr

Y ou’re barking up the wrong tree tree barkingupthewrong ou’re or ‘wrong’ quiemploienttouteslesmots‘right’ expressions l’équivalentenfrançaispources Trouvez He wantstodotherightthing

He’s notinhisrightmind Right or Wrong? 4 Cor rect meifI’mwrong rect Don’t getmewr That’s aboutright! He’s rightasrain Quite righttoo! ong sideofbed W rong move! rong 3 Ouch, that British humour!

8 mother-in-law 8 (fine – amendeou OK) that wasnice said, ‘Parking Fine.’So on thewindscreen. It They lefta littlenote me onmydrivingtoday. actually complimented You know,somebody ong irreguliers lespluriels Trouvez 1 fungus 4 mouse 9 people

6 sheep

3 tooth 2 child 7 knife 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 5 lady 10 ox j i h g f e d c u tetrompes b a

C’est àpeuprèsça Il estenpleinefor Repr Ne lepr Il veutbienfair Il s’estlevédupiedgauche Exact! Er Il n’estpassaind’esprit T

reur, mauvaiseidée enez-moi sijemetrompe end pasmal e me

P-O Life 49 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 50 P-O Life 50 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales BOOK obscure intheoriginaltoo. in There isacat oftheFrenchtranslation title-andisprobably As forthetitle, It’s onlyknows! heaven adirect wife’s fidelity! preoccupiedwithhis inspector wassomewhat in thispartoftheworld. And, afterall, the poor set as itwasthefirsttimeI’dreadacrimestory pursued afewobviousthings-butletthemoff, understand why, asacopteam, theyhadn’t be read, butthisonekeptmyinterest. Icouldn’t Undoubtedly therearebettercrimethrillersto it. downloaded by accidentand, becauseitwassetinthePO, discovered thebookon Amazon completely is amusinglyliteral, andclunky times!I at It’s wortharead, althoughtheEnglishtranslation summer. isfoundon whose body Argeles beachonehot murder-in thiscase, ayoungDutchwo`man As withallgoodcrimethrillersitstartsa Inspector GillesSebag, whoworksinPerpignan. It’s setinthePOandmaincharacteris for France 3andthiswashisdebutnovel. Philippe Georget, isdescribedasanewsanchor of aFrench novelpublishedin2012. The author, I’ve justfinishedreadingthisEnglishtranslation By PhilippeGeorget::: 1 THE CATS AREBORED SUMMERTIME ALL the story -andthere’sthe story an element of cat and and an elementofcat mouse throughout. But bored cats? Anyway, Iforone wasn’t bored - and wasn’t bored-and almost didn’t make it almost didn’tmakeit to the boulangerie this to theboulangeriethis morning in time for morning intimefor essential bread, so determined was I to determined wasI to get totheend! Helen Alexander) (Reviewed by

Life appreciate. heroic-fantasywill fansofbloody everything fights inshabbycellars,- prostitutemurders with anespeciallydarkvisionofPerpignan: usthemercilessMiddle The authorshows Ages, not preparedforhistransformation! characters, andafewladieswhoarecertainly monster. Heencountersenemies, mysterious hebecamea begins ajourneytodiscoverhow Raised ontheMountCanigo, thewerewolf Perpignan, andCollioure! ittakesplacearoundtheCanigo,fantasy isthat minotaurs andtitans... butthebeautyofthis chivalry, suchaswerewolves, fantasticcreatures fantasy archetypesarepresent: wizards, Corcinos, XIIcentury. inaalternative All the ‘Le Lycan Blanc’, analbinowerewolf, follows takesplace...that ! inCatalonia novel, aheroic-fantasy Lycan Blancishisfirst stability inwriting. Le everything... butfinds He hasdoneabitof as a ‘job nomad’. describes himself du Roussillon’, he Semaine ‘La newspaper for theweekly Currently ajournalist lives inPerpignan. Phil Beckeris31and By PhilBecker ::: 2

Order it in any bookshop, or

directly from the internet

(Rivière Blanche website, LE LYCAN BLANC

Amazon... 3 Their stories Their stories never indifferent. seducers, sometimesdeceived, oftenbeguiled, surroundings, sometimesseduced, sometimes influences theiractions. Theyembracetheir Like her, andloveofmusic theirknowledge Like her, theirpreviousexperiencesarefarflung. history. character revealssomethingabouthisown In theprocessofdiscoveringhisvillage, each the 4portsofcoastasseenbyforeigneyes. nouvelles delaCôte Vermeille’, Ellenportrays In ‘Hôtel Belvédèredurayonvertetautres herself, herfriends, andnow, awiderpublic. worldintotalestoentertain spun herimaginary beenastoryteller.always Shehaswrittenand Since herchildhoodinNew York, EllenHallhas By EllenTurner Hall:::

bookshops and newsagentsin

French and English from

Also from FNAC and STORIES CÔTE VERMEILLE

Available in both

the region. Amazon.fr twist andturn, basking in and buffeted by the in andbuffetedbythe eccentric charms of eccentric charmsof Catalonia’s rockycoast. In thesefourstories, at least one of which leastoneofwhich at is shortly to become a is shortlytobecomea film, Ellenguidesthe reader on a voyage of of reader onavoyage discovery along the alongthe discovery Côte Vermeille.

P-O Life 51 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 52 52 P-O Life 52 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales P-O tipple. prefer certainbloodgroups, typeObeingthetastiest less.possibly becausetheysweat Mosquitoesalso susceptible tobites, asarewomeningeneral, and ourmetabolism. Pregnantwomenaremore genetics, alcoholconsumed, medicaltreatments, attractiveness, asdoesthebacteriainourbodies, Diet, perfumesandcosmeticscontributetoour tomosquitoes.Around 20%ofusarehighlyattractive more itswells, andthemoreititches! it needstoupitsdefences. The morewescratch, the We -andourimmunesystemreacts, scratch thinking immune responsetotheforeignmosquitosaliva. caused byhistaminesreleasedthebody, anatural We oftenfeelnothing. Then theitchingstarts, enough forhertodrinkherselfgiddy. cocktail ofsalivatostopourbloodfromclotting long blood vesselintowhichshe ‘injects’ anot-so-delicous needle-like mouthpart, sheisfeelingaboutfora When thisminimenacesticksuswithherlarge so agoodincentivetolosethoseextrakilos! the moreweexhalegas, andthemoreshelovesus– exhaled carbondioxide. Infact, theplumperweare, –heat, light, perspiration, odour, body lacticacidand female bites, byourchemicalsignature attracted T around formorethan30millionyears. Onlythe he mosquito, (‘littlefly’inSpanish)hasbeen

Mozzies! Let’s start from scratch!

Life Pyrenees’). de Cerdansandher book inthe Magick ‘Naturale GuilbertofStLaurent le Sauvage (Thanks toCindy extract and1/4cuplemonjuice. Top upwithwater. oilwith3-4tbspofvanilla Mix 15dropslavender Lavender andlemon oilforextraprotection.Mix intoorganicsoy oil ormoisturizer, andrubasmallamountonto skin. each) intoabout30mlofanunscentedandnatural lavender, neem, andblack pepper(about6dropsof Mix 30dropsofessentialoils, catnip, citronella, Essential oilsmelange bay. oilwhichalsokeepsmosquitoesat soy kernel,apricot almond, sweet coconutoil, ororganic mosquito repellent. Bestdilutedinacarrieroillike andisacommonlyusedeffective Smells great Lavender essentialoil stuff. loadsoffreshgarlic.Eat Mosquitoescan’tstandthe Garlic mosquitoes fromenteringthehouse. ways. You wellitpreventsthe willbeamazedhow oil.fragrance sillsanddoor Putdropsacrosswindow Use onlypureessentialoilofcitronella—not Citronella THE NATURAL…..

Whatever the reason for the mozzie bite, there are plenty of ways to reduce your “mozzie attractiveness”.

AND THEJUSTPLAINSILLY! week. leastoncea paddling poolsbyemptyingthemat buckets, checkbirdbaths, dishesand petwater water-filled containerslikeoldtyres, pots and Get ridofbreedingplacesinyourgardenbyremoving help -donotrelyonthem! littleto dovery Insect lighttraps(‘bugzappers’) exposed skin. toclothesApply when possible, andsparinglyto Apply insectrepellent, themoreDEETbetter. mozzie canstillpierceclothing. and tightlywovenmaterials. the Rememberthat Tiger when outdoorsforlongperiodsoftime, lightcolours sleeved shirt(butditchthehankieonhead!) Wear shoes, socks, longtrousersandalong- are ingoodrepair. Be suredoorandwindowscreensfittightly thesmokeandsmellquickly.as windcandissipate an area, butdon’trelyonthem, particularlyintheP-O Citronella candlescanhelpkeepmosquitoesoutof THE PRACTICAL… morning!! gin willstopyoufrom feelingthebiteuntilnext bay andthe The quinineintonic keepsthemat Buy acow. and tonic. Cows give off the chemical giveoffthechemical Cows Drink or even bathe in gin Drink orevenbatheingin signature signature that mosquitoescrave.that Putit at thebottomofyour garden. at

And a few mozzie limericks from readers….. (romarin) Rosemary (basilic) Basil (Thim citron) Lemon thyme Put any of these plants in your garden or on your patio this hisbarkismuchworsethanbite! Now He wasettbyadog While perchedonalog Packed andflewintothenight hisbags A mozziewhothoughthewasbright. summer. Mosquitoes absolutely hate them! Gave awhoopanddiditagain! Gave Dead-centre ofback It piercedwithathwack men Had apenchantforhairy-backed POmosquitocalledBen A suave (ail) Garlic (citronelle) Lemongrass (Lavande) Lavender During delicto’! ‘in flagrante When you’restungonthebum You canfeelreallynumb Is ourenemythemosquito, Summer iscomingandso, (mélisse citronnelle) Lemon balm (soucis) Marigolds (herbe àchat) Catnip Kate Hilda Caroline

P-O Life 53 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 54 54 P-O Life 54 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales www.sagales.com practical. Findoutmoreat off trains,it’s much more don’t want tohumponand you haveluggage thatyou takes abitlonger, butif airport, bothterminals.It directly toBarcelona can actuallygetabus through afewstops,you and don’tmindsitting Figueres busstation, If youcangetaliftto P-O

Airport news

Famous quote

If God had intended us to fly he would have made it easier to get to the airport.

Life Fairclough with John O schedules publishedinspring. Onthisoccasionit’s late decision to reinstate theirIrishroutesfrom decisiontoreinstate late a prettyshortprocess, asallIcanfindisRyanair’s Cork andKnockoverthepeaksummermonths. GIRONA, fromDublin withtwiceweeklyrotations Nothing axedthisyearasfarIcansee, so schedule details. please refertothePOLifespringeditionforfull opportunity tospotlightP.O.’s airport, hometown With fewflightchanges, itseemsagood Perpignan. Towards theendof Ihadthe April development manager forbothPerpignandevelopment manager and pleasure ofmeetingwithDimitriSindres, redevelopment work at Perpignan.redevelopment workat It’s onlyfairto Carcassonne airports, foraprogressreporton slow. At thebeginningofMay as Iwrite, new progress,say that thoughnoticeable, has been facilities are limited to the airport information facilities arelimitedtotheairportinformation toilets, beaccessedbylift. whichcannow The and Air France desksplusnewdownstairs completely refurbished, andmorespacious. byJune,check inareawillcomeintoservice Currently there is a temporary café/shop bythe Currently thereisatemporary should beupandrunning, alongwithavery entrance, but, bythesummernewversions lounge, withabigincreaseinwaitingspace, welcome additionofafirstfloordeparture or deletionsfromthe Airlines’ summer it’snce again additions any timetolookat whole arrivalsareatakesitsturnforamakeover. The immigration, reclaim baggage andcarhire, whilethe facilityfor processed throughsomesortoftemporary Over thesummermonthsarrivingpassengerswillbe 3. willremainat Departure gates Perpignansomething sadlylackingat uptonow. Our excellent Delicatessen - Superb selection of exotic fruit &veg Instore atMas Guérido: Exciting newitems from aroundthe world, Shop instore andonline Traiteur’. books and china -Tempting take-away dishes in our ‘Rayon from home & abroad (Martinique, Mexico, Thailand … ) - Japanese (fresh Shiso, Thai Basil, Ciboule …) - Extensive range of produce section + tips & recipes. Supermarket! InternationalBest Region’sThe Very London’s it. Stanstedairportforthosewhoknow modernandstriking,very notunlikeaminiversionof ofthebuildingistakingshape,frontage andlooks

Car share Visit our forum at http://forum.anglophone-direct.com to offer or request lift shares to local and regional airports. [email protected] ready meals, deli

P-O Life 55 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 56 56 P-O Life 56 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales Most ofthepositive appear tobe ‘irons inthefire’ Perpignan thiscomingwinter. Stanstedfrom willNOTbeserving Ryanair that hehadjustitconfirmed Further badnewsisthat Monarch, BMIRegionalandFlyBe. airlines withwhomDimitrihasdiscussionsare Leedsnextyear.could betemptedtoserve OtherUK far cometonothing, Ryanair thoughheishopefulthat so Leeds BradfordandManchesterrespectivelyhave area. Talks to tostartservices withJet2andRyanair costoperators, low bringinginvisitorstothe already bythe is caughtinthemiddleofazonewellserved to effectthis, theproblem, asever, Perpignan isthat hard beenunquestionablyworkingvery team have facility, thenews wasnotsogood. Though heandhis newflightstothesmart made onattracting onprogress When IpressedDimitriforinformation P-O

Life

Amsterdam Schiphol. USA andCanada, to andmaybearegularservice Aer LingustoprovidethroughfaresviaDublinthe new IberiaflighttoMadrid, anarrangementwith withEasyjet),de Gaulle(perhaps developmentofthe for POresidents, toParis notablyaservice Charles willprovideconnectionsout that facilities/services re new flights!! article, and hear betterback news then to see the finishedHopefully, I’ll be invitedscheduled till Janrefurbishment 2016. works isFinal not completion of the 2. scruter sans 2. scrutersans entre amis, lors d’unesortie au restaurant ou réseaux sociaux à jourdevos cesse lesmises

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P-O Life 57 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 58 P-O Life 58 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales I artists forandartcraftlovers. by theMétiersd’ArtSantRochgroup, runby itisnow Painstakingly fromanearruininthe60s renovated artists. for theindividual, handcraftedworksofart20local ancient formerCarmeliteconvent, ashowcase now world, courtyard, ashady leadingtoacooland SantRochandenteranother oftheGallery gates forartists.attraction Pushopenthewroughtiron Over onehundredyearslater, Céretisstillagreat for artistsfromfarandwide. animated, andCéretbecameapopularmeetingplace to thetown, discussionsheldintheGrandCaféwere wastorevolutioniseart.that Otherartistsweredrawn

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exhibited. exhibited. the world’sgreatestpressphotosare than adozenhistoricbuildingswhere exhibition ofPhoto-journalisminmore culminating intheworldfamousVISA from jazztoflamencoclassical, there ismusic,danceandtheatre entertainment. Throughouttheseason, mixture offreeandexcitingstreet and squareslightupwithasparkling every Thursdayeveningasthestreets captivate localsandholidaymakersalike Jeudis dePerpignan’enthralland Throughout JulyandAugust,‘Les Perpignan rocksandsizzlestoo! Summer isn’tallaboutthebeach. BUT GREY

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P-O Life 65 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 66 66 P-O Life 66 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales DID YOUKNOW DID YOUKNOW visitors arrivingor departingthePyrenees-Orientales. Languedoc andRoussillon, afirstandlastlandmark for isasymbolicborderbetween tonorthCatalonia gateway flag.the Catalan bysculptorEmili Created Armengol, this four opendoors, itsuprights symbolisingthefourbarsof Catalans”, or Countries’, oftheCatalan ‘Gate giantarcof A9 motorwayandtheN9, stands the “Porta delsPaïsos panoramic viewsofseaandlagoon, visiblefromthe ofthe Corbières,On aplateau nearSalses, with Welcome totheP-O pride! a symbolofCatalan symbol-elburro– unofficial national Catalans ‘hit back’byproducingtheirown became asymbolofSpanishpride-sothe bulls butremovethenameOsbourne. The bull famous. The compromisewastokeepthe banned, nationally butthebullwasalready Spain. Inthe1990s, suchadvertisingwas nearmajorroadsthroughout their sherry ofabullinsemi-profiletoadvertise images putuplargeblacksilhouetted company So what’s thestory? The Osbornesherry – thebull. symbol unofficialnational of Spainhasitsown symbol ofCatalonia, NorthandSouth. The rest back ofcars? Well, littledonkeyisthe that younoticedthedonkeystickeron Have A littleassoraloadofbull?

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P-O Life 69 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales 70 Life 70 Speed Limit Changes P-O Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales P-O companies. hasn’tfilteredthroughtoallhire case thenewlaw partofthelicencewiththemin is totakethepaper Advice fromthe AA forthosehiringvehicles abroad number willalsobemadeavailable. For Internetaccess, thosewhodonothave aphone near future. gov.uk/view-driving-licence formoreinfointhe codes isnotyetonlinesokeepaneyeonwww. At thetimeofwriting, these thewebsitegenerating advance withyourcarhirecompany. card’ licence. You areadvisedtocheckonthisin will requirethiscodeaswelltheir ‘credit only 72hours. Some, butnotall, hirecompanies code beforehiringacar, whichwillbevalidfor Drivers maybeexpectedtoobtainanonline records endorsementsandfines. hire fromJune8th2015. counterpart This paper T Need to Know W headset as an in-car chatting option. headset as anin-carchatting only thewirelessBluetooth systemwithout ofhissurrounding,driver beingaware leaving of allhandsfreedevices whichmightpreventthe includeOther changesindrivinglaws thebanning around France formJune30th2015 Things You Might

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Life are in very limited supply! limitedsupply! are invery allthetickets, earlytobag getting upvery orthey is -andeithersomebody a 1euroticketavailable ‘Valider’. whenthereisactually This willonlyshow for theredbox, ontherighthandside, marked phones, Ipadsetc. Onceyouareonthesite, look train, andcanbeprintedordisplayedonsmart www.train1euro.fr, bookableforadesignated Tickets ONLY areavailable via Internetat lot ofpatience. isexhaustedrequiresawhole allowance allocated However, actuallygrabbingaticketbeforethedaily bad! Pyrénées-Orientales) forjustoneeuro?Can’tbe Languedoc Roussillon(Hérault, Gard, Aude, Lozère, withinthe5regionaldepartmentsof anywhere M Spanish motorway Built upareas Dual Carriageway Open Road Motorway SPEED LIMITREMINDER

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Protect your dog! and paymentbycreditcard. number ofpeopletravelling, bythetime followed of departureanddestination, specifyingthe on The principleissimple: afreeaccount create affordablerates. taxis at The aimistooffereconomic, friendly, andsafe Year’s Eve. nights outandspecialoccasionssuchasNew licensed professionalsforFriday andSaturday system oftaxi-basedcarpooling, directedby taxis,experimenting withreducedrates a S F and petshops. with deltamethrin, available frommostvets Use Spot-onpipettesandScaliborcollars protection. flea/tickcollarsdonotprovide Ordinary cells, theimmunesystem. andcandamage parasites ontheskinwhichinvadedog’s and transmit ‘leishmaniasis’, bydepositing fatal. This unpleasantlittlebeastiecancarry ‘Phlebotomus’ or ‘sandfly’ whose ‘bite’canbe www.taxis-route-66.fr the association Route 66 has been Route66hasbeen the association ince thebeginningofDecember, to protect your dog against the the to protectyourdogagainst rom MarchtoOctober, don’tforget and enter place and enterplace

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P-O Life 77 Life in the Pyrénées-Orientales

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