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AMÉLIOREZ VOTRE ANGLAIS SUMMER 2010 AND TEST YOUR FRENCH FREE / GRATUIT Nº 28 Your English Speaking Services Directory www.anglophone-direct.coml h di t Properties of charm throughout the Roussillon

The former team of RHF International look forward to bringing you their unrivalled knowledge and expertise. We are proud to announce the opening of our new offi ces and “Property Gallery” in Céret this June.

Spacious Village house with terrace enjoying stunning views of the surrounding countryside. This characterful 3 bedroomed property in the traditional, sought after village of St Laurent de Cerdans has been tasteful renovated throughout to a very high standard. 189, 000 €

Stunning 3-4 bed villa with pretty garden, swimming pool and exceptional views of the Albères hills and Mount Canigou to. This sympathetically renovated villa is well located in halfway between Amelie-les-Bains and Arles-sur-Tech. 380,000 €

Immaculately renovated 4 bedroom villa in Céret with large pool and breathtaking views towards Canigou. This exceptional property successfully combines all the conveniences of modern luxury living with traditional characterful features. Thoughtfully designed landscaped gardens. 850,000 €

If you are looking to buy or sell a property contact:

Real Estates SARL +33 (0)4.68.83.19.50 1 Place de la République www.real-estates.fr 66400 Céret [email protected] 2 Where property dreams become Real Edito...

Register for our Salut tout le monde! free weekly newsletter, and stay up to date with the I have a really clever little wheeze for pleasantly life in the Pyrénées-Orientales. plump people who want to take full advantage www.anglophone -direct.com of the amazing variety of summer food, drink and festivities in the P-O, but know it’s naughty. Buy jeans or a skirtt that are at least one size too big for you and pull nonchalantlyy at the waistband as you order another cool beer or pick at the tapas that accompany the evening apero. In this edition, we have put together some fabulous sporting activity ideas to burn off the calories… and an interesting selection of restaurants to put them back on again! Our summer days out take you up into the mountains in searchch of the perfect saucisson, and along the coast to Saint Cyprien and Banyuls, where calamarimari fans can learn a little about the smart seiche! Leigh and Merry Foster slog up to the peak of Canigou, Ellen Hall takes you round the free photographic expo on the Argelès sea front,t, Michael Brady goes Stone Age, and John Fairclough once again takes on the arduous task of restaurant reviewing! Go steady on the sun and heavy on the sun cream and have a great summer! Kate & Jane

Advertise with us Magazine gratuit To fi nd out more about how your Tout Droits réservés,vés,, business can benefi t from advertising in Reproduction interditeerddite PO Life and Anglophone Direct contact Concepteur et Michelle on 06 12 22 23 70 rédacteur: Katee Maquette & Création:éatiion: [email protected] www.blyth-spirit.comt.comm Impression: Imprimeriemprimmerie du Mas Tirage: 90000 ex Ne pas jeter surr la vovoieoie For editorial queries & comment publique - Anglophonedirectlophoonedirect [email protected] accepts no responsibilityponsibility for the competencycy of peoplep and services advertisingtising in PO Life 3 Food&drink

Visit our stunning 19th century Hunting Lodge and Gite, nestled in the charming hilltop village of Corsavy, in the tranquil Riuferrer Valley. Our elegant rooms enjoy views of the valley and are equipped with showers, PC’s with DVD players, free unlimited internet access and Wifi . An unrivalled base to explore this beautiful region. After a day’s walking, fi shing, bird watching or skiing, why not relax in our heated pool or 4-seater hot tub English, French, Dutch and German spoken Open all year round www.landreu.com 66150 Corsavy - France 4 Chambres d’Hotes & Gite Tél : 04 68 37 57 22 Index Walk the region Canigou...... 6-7 Did you know...... 8-9 Events festivals & traditions ...... 10-13 Food & drink Selfi sh shellfi sh ...... 14-15 Restaurant review ...... 18 A touch of class in Belesta ...... 22 Out for the day St Cyprien...... 24-27 Saillagousse, Llo and Err ...... 28-29 Olette via Sansa to Les Angles ...... 29 Banyuls Aquarium ...... 30-31 A tale of two trains ...... 32-33 Test your French ...... 34-37 Améliorez votre Anglais ...... 38-39 Let’s get physical Summer Sports...... 40-45 Artlife Earth: the Melodrama ...... 46-47 Over the border Empúries ...... 48 Who to contact in an emergency ...... 50-51 Cave language ...... 52-53 Leaving a tip ...... 54-55 Bank & school holidays ...... 57 Emergency numbers ...... 60 English Speaking Services ...... 62-63

Vide Greniers Palais des Congrès, Perpignan organises events, exhibitions, salons, Visit our site at www.anglophone-direct.com for an up-to-date list of the vide greniers in concerts and conferences throughout the your area. year. Check out their website on www.congres-perpignan.com Oops...... In the last edition we told you that after the age of 75, drivers need a medical examination every two years to prove they are fi t to drive. In fact, this is not yet law, just being discussed for the future. Sorrrrrrrry!

5 Walktheregion... with Leigh and Merry Foster

PIC DU CANIGOU

his walk is not for the faint-hearted, but has to be on many people’s ‘bucket list’ of things to do while they can. The sense of achievement and the spectacular views from the top on a good day Tare more than worth the eff ort. Bear in mind the altitude, and the fact that the weather in the mountains can change quickly, so packing some extra layers is a good idea just in case. Good footwear is essential and walking poles very advisable.

Getting there 456067E 4709241N. This is where southwest past a small lake We started at 9am in the parking the walk starts. If you have a and climbs the hillside towards des Pompiers in Prades, which suitable vehicle (or an unsuitable Pic Joff re. The clearly marked can be found by following one and a brave driver!) you path up Canigou splits from the the signs to Codalet from the can drive the track yourself. GR10 at 455260E 4709170N. centre. There we met up with Those like us that don’t live in our transport for the fi rst leg The walk the mountains will fi nd the of the trip - M. Colas (04 68 05 Set in a pretty forest clearing, altitude makes the modest 27 08) and his very old and the Chalet provides basic gradient surprisingly hard work. bumpy 4x4, with room for seven accommodation and a people into which we somehow refreshment stop in dramatically After reaching the ridge squeezed eight. This took us wild surroundings. After making (1.8km from the start), the 30 km (1 hour’s drive) up sure we were well supplied turn south and start the long rutted forest tracks and logging with water we set off . The trail, ascent to the summit. The path roads to Chalet des Cortalets at which at fi rst joins the famous is well marked and well trodden, 2150m altitude, co-ordinates GR10 coast to coast walk, heads but still not easy in places where 6 hand-over-hand climbing is You fi nally reach the required. As you go there are surprisingly small summit magnifi cent views to the west at 2784m, 2-3 hrs after starting over the Foret Domaniale du from the Chalet, to fi nd people Canigou and south towards perched on little outcrops of Spain. While taking a breather rock, taking photos and eating we spotted some enormous sandwiches. The famous ‘Croix’ is soaring birds of prey that, thanks there, and the Table d’Orientation to Google, we later identifi ed as with its Catalan poetry by Jacint Spanish Imperial Eagles. There is Verdaguer. You can see the quite a steep drop to the west so top of the ‘Cheminee’, which is do take care. the alternative route to the top reserved for mountain goats and The trail continues south, hard-core climbers. There was up and further up, until snow in the avalanche-sculpted you come to the foot of the fi nal gulley in mid September, as there ascent (3.2km from the start). probably is for most of the year. Here it zigzags precariously up to watch every step. The walking the loose rubble slope to the top. After your picnic and rest, poles come in handy here. It You are tantalizingly close, but at you start back the 4km was with great relief we got 2680m altitude it’s still about 100 back to the Chalet. Going down back down 2 hours later, to fi nd metres straight up, or 400 metres is less challenging than coming everyone else waiting to squeeze if you don’t have a helicopter! up, but still not easy as you have into the 4x4 back to Prades!

Pic Du Canigou 2784m

ChaletCCha des Cordalets 2150m21150m

7 Didyouknow...? Clever Money, money, money If you just love money, head Frenchmen for the Joseph Puig Museum of The famous Houdini, born Erik Weisz, Coins and Medals in Perpignan took his name from Frenchman, Apparently the only museum of Jean Eugene Robert Houdin, its kind in France and the largest gifted magician, watchmaker and in Europe, it displays coins and inventor who is actually credited medals from all time periods and for inventing the electric light locations, with some very rare bulb 15 years before Edison. coins from Catalonia and the Roussillon. And whilst we’re on the subject 42 av. de la Grande-Bretagne of famous Frenchmen, have you heard about La Petomomane? Perpignan Tel: 04 68 66 24 86 He didn’t take his name from a gifted magician. Oh no! Joseph Pujol was a gentleman who became a very famous vaudeville act due to his amazing ability to control his bottom muscles!! His stage name of Le Petomane (loosely translated as “the farter”) rather gives it away! One of the highlights of his act was pumping out the Marseillaise through his bottom!

‘Partir’ - Described on Expatica as a sort of « bourgeois Lady Chatterley’s Lover », French fi lm ‘Partir’ was partly fi lmed in the Languedoc-Roussillon and stars Kristin Scott Thomas, a married lady who falls for her builder. Whilst the main fi lming took place in Nîmes, several scenes were fi lmed in Cerbère.

Bottoms up for petanque ‘Only 24 hours from Tulsa….. sorry….. According to the rules of petanque, Préfecture! - A prefecture is not necessarily the largest when a player loses the game without town within a ‘département’. Whether or not a French town scoring a single point, (13 to 0), “il a fait was classed as a ‘préfecture’ was decided according to the fanny” (he has made fanny), and has to time taken to travel from the border of the department on kiss the bottom of a girl called Fanny horseback. Horsey had to be able to reach any town in the - the ultimate humiliation for boules department within 24 hours. players. Of course, it is quite rare to fi nd an obliging Fanny on the boules C’est la vie! - According to a survey by International pitch, so there is usually a substitute Living magazine, France has come out on top for the fi fth pair of buttocks available in the form of year in a row as the best country in the world to live in whilst a painting, sculpture, pottery bum…. If poor old Britain trails well behind at number 25 out of 194 your name IS Fanny, and you’re looking countries surveyed. Results were based on criteria such as cost for a bit of fun this weekend, why not take of living, average house prices, tax and infl ation rates, leisure and a stroll around the petanque pitches! culture, economy, environment…… 8 Weightwatchers The roundabout by the casino in Le Boulou, on the Le Perthus road is a fave hangout for naughty gendarmes on the pull. If you Bra decide to go to Le Perthus or Spain to stock up on cheap la booze, bear in mind that if your car is overloaded, they will pull la! you up. On the spot fi nes of Just in case you hhave bbeen around 100€ can be levied or choosing your French bras by in extreme circumstances the trial and error ladies, here is a car could even be seized. useful conversion table so you don’t have a droopy summer!! 32 = 85 46 = 120 A little ass or a load of BULL? 34 = 90 48 = 125 Impossible around here to nationally famous, so it was 36 = 95 50 = 130 miss the donkey sticker on the agreed that the bulls would 38 = 100 52 = 135 back of some cars and the bull remain, but the name Osbourne 40 = 105 54 = 140 stickers on others! The donkey is would be removed. There 42 = 110 56 = 145 the symbol of Catalonia, North are now nearly one hundred 44 = 115 and South, whilst the bull is the examples of the Osborne bull Cup sizes the same unoffi cial national symbol of advertisements, often sited apart from Spain. on a low hilltop so as to be DD = E The whole thing actually clearly silhouetted against the E = F goes back to the Osborne sky. Car stickers and T shirts of F = G sherry company who put up the Osborne bull were by now FF = H large black silhouetted images all over Spain – a symbol of of a bull in semi-profi le to Spanish pride - so the Catalans Coasting advertise their sherry on sites ‘hit back’ by producing their The Côte Vermeille (vermillion near to major roads throughout own unoffi cial national symbol coast) stretches from Argelès-sur- Spain. When a law was passed - el burro – a symbol of Catalan Mer to Cerbère via Collioure, Port in the 1990s prohibiting such pride! Vendres and Banyuls-sur-Mer. This advertising, the bull was already part of the coastline covers a mere 15 kilometres but the winding road from Port-Vendres to Cerbère makes it feel much longer, despite the superb views ! Take a sick bag for the folk in the back seat ! The Cote Radieuse takes less than half an hour to drive from Barcarès to Argelès, passing through Torreilles, Ste Marie la Mer, Canet en Roussillon, and St Cyprien. 9 Eventsfestivalstraditions..... The curative powers of local herbs such as rosemary, thyme and verbena are 22 June - througout the region supposed to be 100 times stronger on the eve of Saint Jean. Verbena in particular, and carlina (a type of thistle shaped like La Trobada the sun) apparently act as an aphrodisiac, and if nailed to the door, protect from du Canigou & evil spirits and prevent ‘mauvaises fées’ the Focs de (bad fairies) entering the house. la Sant Joan Els Focs de la Sant Jean, the Fires of St John, an the following morning important symbol of the unity of the Catalan round the iron cross at the culture, takes place on the region’s sacred summit of Canigou. mountain, Canigou (2,784 metres), and in The next morning, towns and villages right across Catalonia. after much feasting The fi rst midsummer fi re on Canigou was lit on and very little 23 June 1955 by one Francois Poujade and fellow sleep, they make USAP rugby fanatics - to celebrate his birthday the four-hour climb to the and also the Perpignan team’s victory over FC top of Canigou, with faggots, and Lourdes in the Yves du Manoir Challenge cup. ribbons of blood-red and gold. La Trobada (gathering or reunion) is the meeting The faggots, bearing the name of walkers and representatives of villages and towns of each commune, form a huge throughout Catalonia. They make their way along bonfi re round the ancient metal the track known as La Piste du Llech (a fi ve hour cross on the top of the mountain. walk), on foot, by horse, mountain bike or 4x4s, to A week later, at midnight on Les Cortalets (altitude 2,150 metres), below Canigou, 22 June, the fi re is lit with a fl ame about a week before the solstice bonfi re. With them permanently kept alive in the Casa they bring faggots of vine cuttings – symbols, like Pairal, and on the 23rd, celebrations the fi re itself, of “love and peace” to be deposited begin throughout the region.

Correfocs originate from crowds accompanied by loud a form of medieval street music, waving sparklers, theatre called ‘Ball de fi recrackers, and roman candles, Diables’, representing the spitting fi re into the crowd. fi ght of good against evil. Great atmosphere, great fun To ensure that any festival but can be very frightening for goes with a bang, their small children, animals and meaning of “fi re runs” says it the less adventurous all! Dressed in red and black, adult! Amongst other useful wearing horns and masks, advice during a correfoc, the ‘colles de diables’ (groups of Generalitat de Catalunya ‘devils’) dance amongst the suggests “If by any chance your 10 Saturday 24th July A selection of …….summer Prats-de-Mollo fun, festivals and fi reworks. FÊTE DU SLIP For more details, dates and Yes it’s the origins, visit our site on underpants festival!! www.anglophone-direct.com According to or check out the local tourist legend, (some what offi ce. unsubstantiated and heartily Saturday 5th June - Céret embroidered but who cares?) Caporal Calçotets Festival d’Havaneres del Vallespir (caleçon = boxers) of Fort Lagarde punished the soldiers Lively sailor ’sing-songs’ by ordering them to carry out an assault course in their accompanied by guitar, accordion underwear! They broke every record for speed and and a tot or two of rum! endurance! To ‘immortalise’ this event, a great feast was Saturday 5th - Sunday organised which became a yearly celebration known as 6th June - Céret the « Fête du Slip ». Games, barbecue and loads of foam as Festival du chien - Crufts everybody slips and slides around and men in underpants comes to Céret! parade, ending in the burning of the underpants king!! Saturday 19th June - Canet Canet summer season opens with Every Thursday eve in July Irish dance show and fi reworks and August - Perpignan Saturday 19th June - Vernet Les Jeudis de Perpignan - music, street Giant ‘cargolade’ (10 000 snails), + fi re show theatre, jugglers, acrobats, fl amenco, Monday 21st June - (national) salsa, jazz...... and late night shopping! La Fête de la Musique - Open to anyone, no Every Wednesday eve in July matter how good or bad your music is. Sounds of and August - Argelès salsa, string quartets and steel bands, rock, pop, Entertainment on the port jazz and soul ring out from every street corner Wednesday 30th June - Thursday 1st July Céret Saturday 26th June – Argelès-plage Les Querencias Corso nocturne d’été – parades, Catalan festival of fl amenco music and dancing fl oats and music in the streets

clothing catches fi re, throw makers), wear traditional yourself on the ground and Catalan costume and climb roll over to put out the fl ames. on to each others’ shoulders Above all, do not run, as this to create a human pyramid, will spread the fl ames and sometimes up to eight or make them burn more fi ercely.” nine storeys high and often Castells (Catalan for castles) topped off with a brave child, originated at the end of a bit like a cherry on a cake! the 18th century in Valls, Gégants (giants) are Tarragona, when rival “colles” enormous painted papier- (groups) began to compete in maché fi gures, sometimes 14 constructing human towers. These castellers (castle- or 15 ft tall, with traditional 11 Eventsfestivalstraditions.....

3rd – 13th July - Perpignan “la course des plumards” (speedy 26th July – Les Estivales bed race through the streets) 13th August Eclectic mix of music, opera, Friday 23rd - Sunday One of the most ballet & theatre www.estivales.com 25th July - Céret respected chamber Sunday 4th July - Torreilles Festival de la Sardane music festivals in Romeria – Spanish festival of Sardanes competitions with Europe, this festival takes place in music, dancing, bodegas….. ’colles’ (sardane dance troupes) the beautiful abbey of Saint-Michel Wednesday 7th July - from all over Catalonia. de Cuxà and other churches in Argelès-sur-Mer - Fête Saturday 31st July - Sorède the Prades area. As you might de la Mer + fi reworks FESTIVAL DE BLUES in the expect from a festival named after Tuesday 13 July – Canet Jardins de la mairie a world famous cellist, many of Musical fi reworks Wednesday 4th August the concerts focus on the cello. and grand bal - Argelès-sur-Mer www.prades-festival-casals.com Friday 9th July - Rivesaltes Fête du Port + fi reworks Apricot festival - All Sunday 1st August - Vernet Wednesday 12th things apricot The Canigou race - not August - Rivesaltes Friday 9th – Monday 12th for the faint hearted! The Babau of Rivesaltes July – Chateau Valmy, Argelès Friday 6th - Sunday 8th August Street parades with stilt walkers, Les Déferlantes Deep Purple, – Mourets beach, Leucate fi re eaters, jugglers, brass Suzanne Vega, Patti Smith, Les Méditerranéennes bands - fi reworks at nightfall Iggy Pop, Gossip de Leucate 15th August - SAINT CYPRIEN www.lesdeferlantesdargelessurmer.com Mediterranean music festival has one of the most talked about July 14th - National on the beach with new fi rework displays in the region La Fête de la Bastille marks the and established artistes Friday 20th - Sunday 22nd storming of the Bastille prison www.lesmediterraneennes.fr August - Arles-sur-Tech in 1789 and the beginning of Ceret (10th – 11th August) Saturday 28th - Sunday the French Revolution of 1789. Collioure (14th – 18th August) 29th August – Canet Watch out for fi reworks, dancing Millas (5th – 8th August) Medieval markets and and music almost everywhere Bullfi ghting festival, with bull re-enactments Friday 16th – Saturday run through the streets, market, Fire eaters, sword fi ghting, re- 17th July – Le Boulou bands, street entertainment enactments of medieval scenes, LA FIESTA - Bands, bodegas, and party atmosphere. jugglers...... Canet village and drinking and dancing including Not to everyone’s taste! Arles-sur-Tech go back in time

clothing and a person inside. They usually appear Catalonian circle dance, believed to be of in couples during the patron saint holidays Greek origin, designed to bring whole villages (Festa Major), carnivals and parades, often as out onto the village green and get them in king and queen, or some important person party mood - a little like a more complicated in the history of the town. They dance in the version of the ’hokey cokey’ in fact! streets with little “big-heads” or “cap-grossos”. Music for the sardane is played by a cobla, a The Sardane, or sardana, is a traditional wind band with typical Catalan instruments. 12 July/August - Perpignan Tuesday 3rd - International Carillon Sunday 8th August Festival (Cathedral bells - Amélie-les- Bains played via keyboard) Festival Folklorique Recommended listening The oldest dance festival place, Old St. John church in the Pyrénées Orientales, square between Restaurant dance troupes from St. Jean and Cathedral. Listen around the world will to the bells ringing out a light up Amélie with a variety of music. More details: kaleidoscope of colour Perpignan Tourist Offi ce. and rhythm.

Night markets (August only) Prades - Every Friday (Usually take place from Torreilles - Tuesdays around 19h – midnight) and Thursdays ( Espace Canet - Every evening (sea des Capellans) front) and every Saturday (port) Le Barcarès - Every Céret - Every Tuesday evening (craft) Argelès - Every Tuesday Ste-Marie-La-Mer - and Friday (Port) Wednesday, Friday and Every night - craft Saturday (sea front) (Parking des Platanes)

2 bedroom stone house with garden near Fitou, with a barn of 220m² to convert. 94,000 euros

13 Food&drink Don’t be selfi sh with your shellfi sh

rubber boots and waterproof Something fishy going aprons. They speed back and forth, opening oysters, cleaning on in Port Vendres mussels and serving customers It serves no proper meals, just good reason: the best of raw at the counter. The menu of dégustation, samples of its retail materials are close at hand, as reasonably-priced small dishes selection of seafood. It has no the market is among the largest is a single A4 sheet, printed tables, so you cannot book one. in the western Mediterranean. both sides, encased in plastic, It doesn’t advertise and has no The focal point for sampling oysters, shellfi sh and crustaceans website. It closes at 7 pm, just shoppers as well as snack on one side, tapas and wines as traditional dinnertime starts. seekers is a pub-height counter on the other. Everything on the The Port Vendres wholesale toward the back of the retail menu is available on the shelves fi sh market (Criée aux poissons) shop. Here, you rub shoulders and counters in the shop; few is a popular seafood eatery with the real stuff : the waiters customers leave without buying and shopping point. With are seafood workers, wearing something to take home.

Les huîtres - Les moules Les crevettes - oysters - mussels prawns Traditionally eaten raw Steamed or boiled, mussels Boil in salted water for a with lemon juice or red wine need very little cooking, if couple of minutes if bought vinegar but delicious grilled you don’t want to end up raw. Also delicious grilled, with shallots and butter. with rubbery fl esh. Discard deep-fried, stir-fried or any that fail to open fully. barbecued on a kebab stick.

Les torteaux - les langoustines - les homards - crabs langoustines lobsters Steam, boil or poach, but Boil in salted water for up to Cooked lobster can be if you’re squeamish like me, ten minutes. Grill with oil and served hot or cold and is better to buy already cooked, garlic, or deep-fry in batter. delicious with melted butter, as crab should cooked alive. lemon juice or mayonnaise

14 Most shellfish in our shops have already been prepared, but do make sure that you discard any with broken or closed shells or bodies. Les violets de les bigorneaux - roche Les coques - winkles & cockles les bulots - whelks A little like soft oysters with Grill, sautèe or steam in Steam, stir-fry or coat a pungent orange fl esh which their shells - lovely with in breadcrumbs and fry. isn’t to everyone’s taste. garlic, lemon & corriander

La Criée aux poissons Les praires - Anse Gerbal, 66660 Warty Venus or Port Vendres, Les amandes Venus Verrucosa - dog cockles clams ! open 08:30-12:30 & 15:30- 19:00 Tuesdays to Saturdays; Like a small clam, with a The English name is 09:00-12:30 Sundays and sweet, almost almond fl avour. probably enough to put holidays; closed Mondays. Rather tough after cooking you off buying these

Free Cocktail upon presentation of P-O Life

Las Papallonas Restaurant Fresh Local Produce Choose from a stunning Cooked with Flair selection of freshly caught fi sh and imaginative meat dishes 3 Quai Vasco de Gama, • Lunch Time Menus from 12€90 PORT ARGELES • Childrens menus from 8€90 Tél : 04 68 56 85 23 The ONLY place to eat in Port Argeles

1515 Food&drink TheTThh Catalan tradition for an for many, based around a single“-ada” ingredient,) (a collective often meal creates some highly unusual, charming festivals where the whole community meet up in the ‘place’. Some examples are bullinada (grilled snails), (fi sh stew), cargolada ollada, (a winter stew), It’s barbeque season! Escalivada comes from the Catalan (grilled veggies), escalivada calçotada (char grilled onions).. word escalivar, meaning “to char”, as the vegetables were traditionally cooked over embers to give the smoky fl avour that is the essence of the dish.

This versatile salad can be served as an entrée with crusty or toasted bread, or as an accompaniment to roast meat or fi sh. Serve warm France may have or at room temperature, but never straight from the fridge. a reputation for serving great coff ee, Ingredients salt and pepper but if you don’t 2 aubergines 1 large clove of garlic, chopped know what to ask 2 green peppers 1 tbl spoon sherry vinegar for, you are likely to 2 red peppers 2 tbl spoon coarsely chopped remain desperate 4 red onions fl at-leaf parsley for your caff eine fi x once you’ve knocked back 8 tomatoes 2 teaspoons small capers that traditional tiny cup of coff ee. If you ask 30 cl olive oil in vinegar, drained for ‘un café’ it will automatically arrive black, and go down in one gulp. Here is some useful vocab to make sure that Hors D’oeuvre you always satisfy your coff ee cravings! Literally meaning ‘outside the works’ hors d’oeuvres was originally an architectural term for an outbuilding Un (grand) café… which was not part of the architect’s main design. The …..au lait : milky coff ee phrase was ‘borrowed’ by French chefs to describe ….glacé: iced coff ee appetisers served outside the main design of the meal. …. liègeois: iced coff ee served with ice cream (optional) and whipped cream BBeereer mmeasureseasures Absolutely formidable ….serré : extra-strong espresso, made with half the normal amount 12,5 cl = un bock of water 25 cl = un demi 50 cl = un distingué Un allongé : espresso with extra water 1 lt = un parfait Un (grand) crème : espresso with warmed 2 lt = un sérieux or steamed milk. 3 lt = un formidable!! Une noisette : espresso with tiny amount of milk in small cup Un cuisinier dit au serveur: «Supprime le “cassoulet maison” sur les Un déca décaféiné or : decaff einated coff ee menus. Je viens de casser l’ouvre-boîte »

Supprime = delete Ouvre-boîte = can opener 16 Just in case Preparation : Char-grill or barbecue peppers and aubergines until soft you need an and tender, then transfer to a bowl, cover with clingfi lm, and stand for 15 minutes. Peel both, removing seeds from peppers excuse…. and tear into large pieces. Remove stem end of aubergine and It seems that calories tear lengthways into 6 pieces. Chop onions and lightly brush from wine cause with olive oil, then char-grill or barbecue for 3-4 minutes women to put on on each side or until just tender and golden. Place char- less weight than the grilled vegetables on a large platter or in separate bowls. calories from foods. Place garlic and 1 teaspoon sea salt into a mortar and, using a According to pestle, pound into a smooth paste , add ¼ cup olive oil, vinegar, www.timesonline.co.uk, new research parsley and capers. Season to taste shows that “moderate female drinkers have with freshly ground black a lower risk of obesity than teetotallers” pepper, combine well, It is possible that the liver breaks drizzle mixture over down alcohol in a diff erent way, turning grilled vegetables it mainly into heat, as opposed to fat. and serve with Beer and spirits do not come into this crusty bread. category, just in case you were about to pour yourself a cold glass of San Miguel!!

A Taste of Argentina! in Perpignan

Fabulous fresh food, cooked Tél : 04 68 63 1447 77 wwithith fl aairir aatt aaffff oordablerdable pricesprices open every day 12H - 14H30 & 19H00 - 23H00 LLeses GGrilladesrillades AArgentinesrgentines www.el-gaucho.fr – aann aabsolutebsolute mmustust forfor meatmeat lovers!lovers! [email protected] private parties catered for Imaginative mid week menus from 113€903€90 oorr cchoosehoose fromfrom ourour 15 Rue Jean Payra 66000 PERPIGNAN mmouthouth wateringwatering à llaa ccartearte 2 minutes walk from Gallerie LaFayette & the Castillet 17 Food&drink

La LittorineRestaurant Review Banyuls sur Mer With John Fairclough

Over the years I’ve seen restaurants by the sea, lake, included supreme of pigeon, veal chop and river, canal and even docks, but rarely have I come tournedos with a red banyuls reduction. Fancier across one closer to the water’s edge than the pickings for the real gourmet are available on the Littorine at the Plage des Elmes just outside carte or dearer menus. Banyuls sur Mer. Desserts are all home made and vary daily This is no rough and ready beachside shack depending on availability, and, very rarely for though. The comfortable dining area’s windows and this area, a full “chariot de fromages”, with some shady veranda open directly out onto the sandy interesting cheeses is a feature. little cove where your meal is Needless to say, local pleasantly accompanied by the Collioure wines feature heavily gentle lapping of the waves. on the wine list. Whilst the Our visit was just after the wines are not especially cheap, reopening in March, so we did there are a number, not just not benefi t from the full “pieds from Roussillon, that are around dans l’eau“ experience, but the the 16€ a bottle mark. cosy ambience, impeccable To secure a table, particularly service and superb food more than compensated. one with a sea view, booking is recommended on There are a range of menus from 26 to 45 €, plus 04 68 88 03 12. English appears to be quite widely carte, of course. The lowest price off ering gives spoken by all the staff . Being right on the main excellent value, as it features plenty of fresh fi sh, coast road, the Littorine is easily found, and parking and high quality meat, all cooked in a varied and appears plentiful. unusual way. As starters we had sauteed foie gras and prawn tails with a white banyuls reduction, and also pan fried lamb sweetbreads with ginger and small turnips. Both were very unusual for the area and delicious. We both plumped for fi sh as a main; blanquette of cod accompanied by copious fresh small vegetables, and mixed local fi sh platter with lemon butter sauce. Meat based alternatives 18 Laissez-vousLaissez-vous porterporter parpar nosnos saveurssaveurs d’Orientd’Orient ...... SpecialisingSpecialising In In Fine Fine LebaneseLebanese Cuisine Cuisine CouscousCouscous GrilladesGrillades LunchtimeLunchtime Menu Menu “rapide” “rapide” TakeTake away away service service available available LebaneseLebanese cuisine cuisine is is an an exquisite exquisite blend blend of of refinementrefinement and and Mediterranean Mediterranean flavour flavour explosions....explosions....

ForFor an an evening evening to to remember remember book book nownow for for our our special special dinner dinner and and entertainmentsentertainments nights nights

ChildrenChildren under under the the ageage of of 7 7 eat eat free! free! StunningStunning Magic Magic Shows Shows TraditionalTraditional Oriental Oriental dancing dancing everyevery Friday Friday evening evening everyevery Saturday Saturday Evening Evening

ReservationsReservations recommended recommended OpenOpen 7 7 days days a a week week Tel:Tel: 04 04 68 68 37 37 25 25 84 84 06 06 62 62 66 66 90 90 29 29 www.aubergeducedre.frwww.aubergeducedre.fr MasMas Sabole, Sabole, D900 D900 justjust 5 5 mins mins from from Perpignan Perpignan and and Le Le Boulou Boulou 6630066300 VILLEMOLAQUE VILLEMOLAQUE 19 Food&drink Un homme vole une poule dans une ferme et la ramène chez lui. Il commence à la déplumer quand les gendarmes arrivent. Pris de panique, le voleur jette la poule déplumée dans sa piscine. Le gendarme lui dit: - Je sais que c’est vous qui avez volé la poule !! - Mais non, dit le voleur, elle voulait se baigner et elle m’a demandé de garder ses aff aires. Vole - steals Se baigner – to swim Une poule – chicken (live) garder – to look after Ramene – takes back ses aff aires - her belongings Deplumer – to pluck

A mouthwatering selection of fresh meats, locally caught fi sh & traditional Spanish dishes - Paellas, Zarzuelas, Fideuà Daily Menu including wine from 19 € Set in the hills above La Jonquera Tel: +34 972 556 951 www.elsfogonsdecanadal.com Veinat de Canadal - Masia Castell As reviewed in the Spring Edition of P-O Life 17700 LA JONQUERA

Fresh local market produce & organic fruit and vegetables + Home-made dishes, desserts and sauce + Artistic presentation, flavours of aromatic herbs = French cooking is not dead !

Tr Tryy our ffamousamous “Risotto“Risotto of the Day"Day" foforr llunchunch Original wine-list , new design, relaxed atmosphereatmosphere LunchLunch 12.6012.60 € MMenusenus frfromom 20 € LunchLunch andand DinnDinnerer

RESTAURANTRESTAURANT LALA TABLE DE CUISINECUISINE in SAINT-ANDRESAINT-ANDRE Open 7/7 July & August. Saint-andre Town center. Car park at the “Mairie“Mairie”” resereservationsrvations +33 ((0)4.68.95.42.060)4.68.95.42.06 oror eemailmail [email protected] 20 Sisters are doing it for themselvess When you meet pretty Perpignan pair Claude and Florence, you are left in no doubt that, in the words of Annie Lennox, ‘sisters are doing itt for themselves!’ Not only have this dynamic duo come back from their travels and taken over the Asia Centre in Cabestany, but they also have plans to take over the world….. world food that is! All things Oriental, Asian and Exotic will still adornorn their shelves to ensure that your curries, stir fries and range of British products, which they will be happy sushi achieve perfection, but alongside home made to add to regularly, according to your requests. ‘boeuf piquant’ from Vietnam and ‘crevettes sautées There will also be themed tastings. Yummy! basilique’ from Thailand, a whole range of other So next time you fi nd yourself trying to squeeze continents will be making an appearance in the future. that jar of ‘Chicken Tonight’ into your 10kg luggage With a much needed injection of ‘fresh’, these allowance, or whistling as that bottle of Ribena new brooms will be sweeping away the faded shows up clearly on the X ray machine at airport fans and paltry palms and replacing them with security, just remember how much easier it would chic ‘around the world’ sections, including a wide be to visit Claude and Florence at the Asia Centre.

Under One Roof ish Brands reat Brit urite G r Favo Plus an unrivalled selection of Asian All You and Oriental products and fresh produce 04 68 67 59 07 At The All New 9 Avenue André Ampère 66330 Cabestany Asia Center Mas Guerido - Cabestany Bringing you the taste of home & abroad 21 Food&drink A touch of class comes to Belesta Something exciting is going on in Belesta! Chateau with museum dedicated to the ancient history of the The former wine cooperative to bring in the grape harvest? region, nearby cave where 6000 has been given a total makeover, Due to open in July, this year old Neolithic remains were and magically transformed eco friendly renovation, with discovered in 1983, and fantastic into a superb 4* hotel and solar panels and natural pool, walks on the doorstep, there gourmet restaurant. set amongst rolling vineyards is so much more to discover In a perfect marriage of and spectacular scenery, is a in this lovely part of the PO. ancient and modern, the 18 perfectly balanced refl ection Find out about the people behind bedrooms and suites created in of its ‘terroir’, the soils and the it, and the trials and tribulations and around the old wine vats use climate where the grapes grow. of this massive renovation project contemporary Mediterranean And with its 11th century in the autumn edition of PO Life. style, yet retain the atmosphere of this most ancient of wineries. And what else could they call the new restaurant, located where once stood the old wine press, but “La Coopérative”, refl ecting generations of villagers who toiled

22 Visit this famous ancient Lintel in the nearby church in Saint Genis des Fontaines Auberge des Albères Restaurant, Wine & Tapas Bar 3 Course Midweek Lunch Luncchc Menu from 13€50 The Real Taste of 2 Courses from 11€50 the Mediterranean Childrens Menu 7€00 Using only the fi nest local, seasonal ingredients we offer a mouthwatering For a “lighter bite” why range of varied, inspired dishes not relax with a glass of In Spring & Summer enjoy dining on wine and a selection of our pleasant covered sun terrace. In home cooked Tapas the colder months soak up the warmth and ambience of our charming dining room with roaring open fi re Just 10 Minutes from the tourist hustle & bustle of Argeles Sur Mer Ample free parking 78 avenue Maréchal Joffre 66740 SAINT GENIS DES FONTAINES

FForor ReservationsReservations : 0044 6688 8899 8888 3388 wwww.auberge-des-alberes.comww.auberge-des-alberes.com 23 Outfortheday...

indoors. There is squash, St CypRIEN swimming, body building and fi tness gym. There is an ‘ESPACE ZEN’ where Miles of golden sands, a port so full Le Jardin des Plantes des sauna and jacuzzi await of yachts the masts almost obscure Capellans next to the sports as well as face, feet and the palm trees, a golf club of some complex on Rue Verdi has body massage. You can renown, restaurants, bars, a casino, a a collection of palms and join for an hour, a day, a discothèque, quayside fi shing boats, a bambouserie, the star week, a year and the prices sporting opportunities galore, an of which is the giant from are very reasonable. And old village centre with excellent art Japan that, in May, grows whilst you’re relaxing in the galleries, the watery play park of up to a metre a day, over a spa, children can have a Aqualand and a botanical garden in centimetre an hour. There whale of a time at the kids which are peacocks. Enough for several is also a collection of over club for a half or full day of days out if not an entire holiday, and all four hundred roses as well fun including rugby, football, to be found in St Cyprien. as many local Mediterranean circus, archery, painting plants through which or dance. Join as a family peacocks strut. and all will profi t from the It is to the Grand Stade wide variety of skills and des Capellans that the activities available. Most whole family can go for of the staff are young, a summer of sporting and enthusiastic and bi-lingual. less-sporting-more-artistic 04 6837 3200, contact@ entertainment. There are tourisme-saint-cyprien.com seventeen out-door tennis or www.tourisme-saint- courts, and a further four cyprien.com for details.

24 r olle A RollerR Of ster ! CCoasteroa OfFun mer SSummerum Fun!

Reach for Welcome the skies Drink French Aerobatics Every Monday in the Display, August 22 heart of the old village Helicopter initiation, Excel June 12 and July 13 Sports courses for Drift away children and adults Story time every International dance Thursday at the workshops from botanical gardens July 18 to 23 Firework Play Extravaganza Treasure hunt, every The port August 15 Tuesday afternoon in Share the Parc des Capellans traditions Children's area, every “Sardinade” followed Sunday afternoon by fi reworks on Discover August 15 Original art exhibits In March 1939, ninety thousand The Museum 3, 4 and 5 September refugees were lodged in outstandingly Desnoyer throughout at the Capellans inadequate shelters on the beaches of the year ... Saint Cyp. It took the fl oods of October 1940 to fi nally force the closure of this appalling camp. How very, very lucky we AAndnd ooff ccourse,ourse, laugh,laugh, ddanceance aandnd are to be visiting St Cyprien in 2010… ssinging tthroughouthroughout tthehe ssummerummer aatt tthehe ‘‘bals’,bals’, ddiscos,iscos, eeveningvening eeventsvents ......

Visit www.tourisme-saint-cyprien.com for more great summer highlights and entertainment or contact the tourist offi ce: 04 68 21 01 33 25 Outfortheday... all photos on these pages © www.tourisme-saint-cyprien.comall photos St Cyprien is a family resort. this summer is the fact that the is to enable International Art The cafes and restaurants are current Mayor is recovering all dealers to see and buy some user friendly, the port a hive the valuable works of art that of the treasures of St Cyprien. of boating activity. There is a went walkabout under the old The considerable side benefi t market on Fridays on the port regime with a view to displaying being that they can also be and Thursdays in the village. In them at both the Collections admired and enjoyed by the the village are two excellent art Desnoyer and the Gallery of public. From impressionist galleries. Of particular interest Contemporary Art. The purpose to ethnic, from classic to

presentationdiscount onof 1 euro this advert 0,50 euro discount on presentation of this ad AwaitingA WWholehole MMiniini photos WWorldorld WWherehere TTwowo 1188 HHoleole KKidsids FFeeleel BBig!ig! Courses Open 11am to 11pm OOpenpen 11.0011.00 iinn thethe morningmorning uuntilntil 2 iinn thethe morning!morning!

Espace de Loisirs – Plage Nord 5 Impasse Copernic – (Direction St-Cyprien) 0066 8866 9944 7777 6644 Ample ARGELES SUR MER - free w ww.espace-loisirs-nature.com parking 26 contemporary, beginning in June there will be new themed exhibitions every month. The surrounding countryside is rich in riding stables. Get a list from the Tourist Offi ce. In fact horse drawn carriages are being planned by the Tourist Offi ce as an ecologically green and fun form of tourist transport in St Cyprien this summer. And the Tourist Offi ce has more activities planned than there is room to mention here. You will just have to go along and fi nd them out for yourself.

27 Outfortheday... From Saillagousse & Llo to Err or “Saillagousse, Saillagousse can you do the fandango”

Saillagousse, on the N116 Bernard Bonzom began the wine for a modest 6.50 euros between Mont Louis and Bourg business about thirty years ago in the converted cowsheds Madame, is the home of Bonzom and is justifi ably proud of all under their superb shop. The and some of the best charcuterie they produce. His pigs live in the Bonzom Emporium itself is in the Pyrénées-Orientales. Ring open air, rootling through pine stuff ed with Bonzom family 04 68 04 14 27 for the visiting forest and meadows in Serdinya produced veal, beef and pork, as hours of their ham drying before being transformed into delicious looking as all the other workshop on the edge of the saucissons of pure pork and dried fresh and predominantly local village where 700 hams hang for hams second to none. Once you produce temptingly displayed. between six months to two years have done the tour you will never It is also where you turn off and watch the fi lm describing the again settle for commercially to Llo. Another village clinging traditional methods of the house. produced saucissons containing to the mountain side, this time A large sow named Cotelette who knows what additives. If dominated by the tower of an surveys the car park secure in the you have any doubts you can ancient ruined chateau fort and knowledge that she is far too old sample a platter of charcuterie the equally ruined monastery and fat to end up on the inside. or cheese accompanied by local of Sant Felieu. Very much alive

28 From Olette via Sansa to Les Angles

For an alternative route to the high cantons of the Cerdagne and Capcir via a twisting, turning, drive through spectacular mountain scenery it is hard to beat the road from Olette to Les Angles via Sansa. Take the road towards Evol would you believe). Either out of Olette and turn left the D4 or the D5 or the C4 onto the D4. The twisting and will bring you out in the high turning begins immediately… Capcir either via the Col de la The tiny chapel of Cabrils can Llose or the Col de Creu. Not be seen on a rocky out-crop a drive for the faint hearted, are the Baths of Llo. Hot (04 68 04 74 above a stream of the same but, for lovers of wild and 55), sulphurous, well organised, they name. You will pass isolated remote country, it is a joy! are open most of the year. They off er farms and spectacular scenery both open air and indoor swimming in on your way to the remote water at 37 degrees. There is a Jacuzzi, village of Sansa in the wild hammam, bar and sauna and they are valley of Garrotxes (rocks, surrounded by beautiful scenery and much snow in winter. The nearby Gorges Little and large du Segre has a “via fermata” for scalers - According to the French of cliff s and lovers of rock climbing. statistics agency, INSEE, (Institut Hire your harness and helmet and click National de la Statistique et des Études), the most populated town onto the route of hand and foot holds or village in North Catalonia is which enable you to reach the Chapel Perpignan with 122 000 of St Felieu. The footpath through the and the least populated is residents Sança, gorge to the refuge of Culasse at 1800 in the Confl ent, 30km from Prades, metres is gentler for those who prefer with a tiddly 17 residents! to keep their feet on the ground. An easy drive through rich farming country brings you to Err. Note the church separated from its chapel by an ancient cemetery. In summer enjoy three municipal swimming pools with water toboggan slides and large picnic area. In winter the ski station of Puigmal Err caters for skiers of all levels and has some of the steepest black runs in the Pyrenees Orientales. All year round the high mountains aff ord splendid views over the celebrated Spanish “Cirque de Nuria” 29 Outfortheday... Luc Viatour- www.lucnix.be Viatour- Luc

Banyuls: Underwater trails & cuttlefi sh! Head off south from Banyuls sur done. Masks and snorkels can be beach vineyards run to the cliff Mer, along the coast road to the hired and the trail of 250 metres edge, on the other, cork trees Sentier Sous-marin (Underwater has buoys at intervals, each with provide shady picnic spots. Trail) at Peyrefi te. The 650 hectares an underwater notice listing the The Banyuls Aquarium in the of sea between Banyuls and diff erent species that may be seen. Laboratoire Arago at the end Cerbère make up the ‘Réserve Cliff s shelter the bay of Peyrefi te of Banyuls marina also off ers Marine Naturelle’. Opened in 1974, from the Tramontane wind and a glimpse of local underwater it provides a protected space for the slope is gentle, making the life: bright corals, octopus, eels, threatened species of sea-life. No start of the route well within fi sh of all shapes, sizes and hues, boats may enter and no fi shing is one’s depth. On one side of the plus showcases of seabirds.

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QFSNJTTJPO www.tpm66.com +33 (0)6 75 46 93 65 30 James Foster provides us with a fascinating insight into one of the inmates of the Banyuls Aquarium....

Superheroes of the sea, the seiche (European cuttle fi sh) course, and there’s only so many is blessed with the powers of invisibility, x-ray vision and times the jet-of-ink-to-the-face communicating in an invisible secret code. trick works on predators after Resembling a fl attened squid simply to resemble a photo of a mouthful of calamari. Hiding with a rather smug expression, their background, but cuttlefi sh is the best strategy, and works the seiche (Sepia offi cinalis) has are smarter than that. Looking fi ne when cuttlefi sh are using been the focus of studies aimed like the background is fi ne, their super-camoufl age to blend at uncovering the secrets of but in nature it is often not with the background, but what adaptive camoufl age (like in the enough: the trick is to look like do they do when they want fi lm ‘Predator’), seeing through a truly unremarkable part of the to talk to each other about the camoufl age of other animals, background. Could you fi nd a things like “Get off my land!” and cryptic communication. photo of your coff ee table on and “Fancy a quickie?” without Their skin is the key to their your coff ee table? I think so; it being detected? With a horny impressive arsenal of colours and has clear edges, it looks out of beak for a mouth whispering is shapes which both hide them place, it probably doesn’t quite pretty much out, but cuttlefi sh from their enemies and allow fi t in with any patterns present have evolved a more elegant them to talk to each other. Shiny on the surface unless arranged solution. They use their shiny ‘iridophores’ refl ect light from just right (which would be very ‘iridiophores’ (the refl ective, the surrounding area, mirroring hard in practice, try it if you don’t mirror-like bits of their skin) to the colour and brightness of believe me). Cuttlefi sh avoid this polarize light refl ected from their the animal’s surroundings, problem by having a bias towards skin, sending cryptic messages while dark ‘chromatophores’ lumpy patterns that overlap to each other without alerting expand and contract at will to with their edges, disguising predators of their presence. create camoufl aging patterns them amongst the shadows and Something to think about next or pulsing stripes. For years it making them look, if anything, time you’re tucking into some was thought that cuttlefi sh a bit like a very boring rock. fruits de mer, or at an aquarium would use these amazing tools Cuttlefi sh have enemies of staring at the pretty colours? 31 vvOutfortheday...

A tale of two trains In the P-O we have two very special trains. How lucky is that? One runs up the Agly valley, the other, the valley of the Têt. Both lines are just over a hundred years old. A journey on either train is sheer pleasure and a brilliant way to have a day out in the P-O.

TTPCFPCF : TTrainrain dduu PPaysays CCathareathare Tasting lunches and dinners held by the lake in eett dduu FFenouilledes.enouilledes. the shade of a 300 year-old mulberry tree are a Running from Rivesaltes, just off the N9 north of must-do for all wine enthusiasts. 04 68 38 91 38. Perpignan, to Axat, high up in the Fenouillèdes, Next stop: Estagel, birthplace of Francois a line was built at the very beginning of the 20th Arago. Look out for Mas Amiel and Chateau de century and was in regular passenger use until Queribus standing on the skyline across the 1939. In 1993 the Association of the Train du vines as you draw into Maury, owned by Cave Pays Cathare et du Fenouillede was formed by of the Vignerons of Maury: tel 04 68 59 00 95. three men, all train enthusiasts and determined Get off here for tasting and castle visits. to breathe new life into the old line. The SNCF At St Paul de Fenouillet, on some trips, a bus was selling off its 1960’s “Picasso” autorails at a is laid on to explore the Gorges de Galamus. reasonable price and it was in 2002 that they began At St Paul de Fenouillet visit Le Chapitre, a IX circulating between Cases de Pene and Lapradelle. century Abbey cum XIV century College with Now the bright red and white carriages await you a dramatic dome housing a museum of Art at Rivesaltes, small and gentle beside the speeding and Tradition plus exhibitions of painting and TGVs and international freight trains. They pass sculpture, minerals and archaeological treasures. through a land of vines and Cathar Castles, a slow The countryside becomes more and more dramatic climbing journey of and, at Lapradelle, 60 km. After Cases the train stops on the de Pène, on the left 1904 viaduct to allow hand side you can see you to admire the the tiny hermitage Chateau of Puilaurens. church of Notre A series of tunnels Dame de Pène, on the and a sharp climb end right the vineyards on a viaduct over the of Chateau de Jau. Aude, more fantastic 32 views before fi nally stopping in the pretty little town of Axat. In the reception hut is a perfect model of Axat Station in the 60’s made by one of the founder members of the TPCF. The timetable and diff ering circuits vary from month to month. All are exciting and fun and completed in 1911, brought the high cantons of the train can also be booked for private parties. the Cerdagne and Capcir into the 20th century. The Tickets and info: 04 68 59 96 18. www.tpcf.fr train was used for goods as well as passengers until at least 1945 when the road became more popular. LLee ppetitetit traintrain JauneJaune In 1970 the line was on the point of closure. It was Everyone has heard of the Little Yellow Train. decided to revamp it as a tourist attraction. A good Running the 63 km from Villefranche de Confl ent idea. It now carries at least 200,000 tourists a year. to Latour de Carol it connects with lines from Paris The engineering problems it overcame as it to Port Bou, from Toulouse to Barcelona. Conceived climbed to Bolquere Eyne, (at 1593 metres the in 1883, the work started in 1903, and, when it was highest station in France), powered by electricity created along its route, were remarkable and not without mishap. On 24th September 1909, during an important visit to the Pont Gisclard by the Minister of Public Works, a terrible accident caused the death of six men including Albert Gisclard himself. His elegant metal suspension bridge, 241 metres long by 80 metres high, was considered quite revolutionary at the time. The dramatic and beautiful Pont Sejourné, 217 by 65 metres, is the other superstar of the line. All along the route are views of the Têt valley. Mountains, forests, small tenacious villages clinging to unlikely slopes, high pastures surrounded by ski resorts and towering Pyrenean peaks, all help to make the ride one of the great train journeys of the world. 33 TestyourFrench

1 - G pour girafe! nitions. Match up these words, all beginning with G, with their defi a gratuit personne d’une taille extraordinaire 1 b gant entre la cuisse et la jambe 2 c grippe petite quantité de liquide 3 d géant virus contagieuxe gencive 4 amphibien qui ‘coasse’ 5 f gendarme on ne paie pas 6 g genou militaire qui fait respecter la loi. 7 h glace chair rose qui recouvre les dents. 8 I goutte l’eau qui a gelé 9 J grenouille un vêtement qui recouvre la main 10

Blague bête A l’arrêt de bus, maman escargot dit à son fi ls 2 - Faux amis! « Ne t’éloigne pas trop, le bus passe In P-O Life 27 we took a look at dans cinq heures! » some of the irritating ‘faux amis’, (escargot = snail) false language friends, specially invented to confuse you. Can you remember which is which…..with a few extras added for good measure? 1. Bondir 6.6 Slip Oooops ! Just to test if you were paying attention, we a)a) To jjump a)) Slilidede made a deliberate mistake in the last edition. Here is the b) To stick toggether b) Unded rppants correct version! 2.2 Coini 7.7 Marmmite Useful vocab a) Coro ner a) Cooking pot Clock wise dans le sens des aiguilles d’une montre b)b Smamalll chaangnge b)b Sandwicch spsprer add Anti clockwise dans le sens inverse des aiguilles 3. Dallle 8. Piles d’une montre a)a Valalleey a) bata teerieses b) Paving stone b) haea morrrhoidds 4.4 Devviss 9.9 SaS lee a) quoote a) speciala off er Repeat three times b)) toool b)) dirrtyty 5. Sensible 10. Resster (Fruits cuits, a) Sensible a)a) to takke a nan p fruits crus) b) Sensitive b) to stay

34 Cooked fruits, raw fruits. Answers on page 57

3 - Match up these useful words and expressions

Dis donc ! 1 A It’s essential bon débarras! 2 B It’s driving me mad! j’ai un petit creux 3 C Get lost! Ça me prend la tête! 4 D I’m fed up! J’en ai marre. 5 E That’s right, for sure Casse-toi (cassez-vous) 6 F Shall we have a bite to eat? On casse la croûte ? 7 G good riddance! C’est clair 8 H By the way C’est indispensable 9 I I suddenly feel exhausted j’ai un coup de barre 10 J I’m peckish

Use ‘Connaître’ + noun to express the idea off knon wiingg SOOMEOONNE OROR SOMMETETHHINGN : Eg Il connaît mom n frère “SSavavoioir”r or “CCononnanaîtree”?? CConnaiissezz-vous lla route pour PPerpiignan?? Savoir” ana d “CConnaîtree boto h mean ‘to know’?

Use ‘Savoir’ + verbb to exe press thhe iddea of knowing HOW TO DO SOMEM THING Eg je sais parler Français Tu sais dansn ere la sardane?

FFrustratedrustrated & Tongue-Tied?Tongue-Tied? WWee aarere herehere toto helphelp youyou breakbreak ddownown tthehe languagelanguage bbarrierarrier • Forgetorgetg t ththe hhassle l and d expense of trips to Perpignan FForor mmoreore iinformation:nformation: 0099 6633 6655 0044 8855 • Come and try the only 0 066 7474 5959 9494 0909 Céret-based language school 0 044 6868 8787 4848 1010 • Relaxed, friendly courses 0 044 6868 3939 5858 2121 tailor-made to suit all ages, 2 pplacelace HenriHenri GGuitarduitard levels and abilities from just 12 € per hour 6664006400 CCERETERET [email protected]@orange.fr • Ample easy FREE parking 35 TestyourFrench 4 - Use the words below to fi ll in the spaces in this reminder of what money can’t buy! L’ARGENT Il peut acheter une maison Il peut acheter un livre Il peut acheter du sang Mais pas un foyer Mais pas la 2______Mais pas la 5______Il peut acheter un lit Il peut acheter une position Il peut acheter du sexe Mais pas le sommeil Mais pas le 3______Mais pas de l’ 6______Il peut acheter une horloge Il peut payer le médecin Mais pas le 1______Mais pas la 4______a) Santé b) amour c) connaissance d) respect e) temps f) vie

5 - Fill in the blanks with the help of the vocabulary below: Une jeune 1______américaine visite un vieux château 2______, que l’on dit hanté. À la 3______de la visite le guide lui 4______si elle a aimé. La 5______dame reconnaît qu’elle a eu 6______de voir 7______des fantômes. Le guide lui répond: “ Ne vous aff olez pas, il n’y a aucun risque: je n’ai jamais 8 ______un fantôme 9______que je suis ici!” “Ah, et cela fait combien de 10______? “ “ oh, je ne sais plus exactement, je pense environ trois siècles... “

a) jeune b) vu c) temps d) touriste e) arriver f) depuis g) demande h) écossais i) fi n j peur

Savez-vous comment on appelle un collectionneur de nounours (teddy bears)? - Un “arctophile” ! ( Venant du mot grec “arktos” qui signifi e ours et d’où vient aussi le mot “arctique” ! )

Perpignan FRENCH /ENGLISH teaching & services

Language and advice for local and new residents ResidenƟal immersion courses

www.howfrench.com [email protected] +33(0)4 68 38 91 69 36 Answers on page 57

Saying thank you Merci bien (mehr-see bee-ann) Thanks a lot Merci mille fois (mehr-see meal fwa) Thanks a million Une maman moustique C’est (vraiment) gentil de ta/votre part. (seh vray-mon chontee duh tah/vot par) prévient ses petits : It’s (very) kind of you. - Ne vous approchez Je ne sais pas comment vous remercier (chuh nuh say pah common voo re-mehr-see-ay) jamais des humains, ils I don’t know how to thank you. essaieront de vous tuer. Remerciez-le/la de ma part (re-mehr-see-ay luh/lah duh ma par) - C’est faux, maman. Thank him/her for me. Hier, il y en a un qui Transmettez mes remerciements à …... a passé la soirée (Trans-mettay may re-mehr-see-uh-mon ah….) à m’applaudir ! Pass on my thanks to …. moutique - mosquito Je vous remercie de l’avoir ….trouvé/cherché/ouvert previent - warns (Chuh voo re-mehr-see duh lav-wah true-vay/cher-shay/oo-vair) ne vous approchez jamais Thank you for fi nding/looking for/opening it. never go near Merci mille fois de nous avoir aidés tuer - to kill (mehr-see bee-ann) passer la soirèe to spend the evening Thanks a million for helping us. C’est gentil de votre part d’être venu (say chon-tee duh vot par det veenoo) It’s kind of you to come.

ALFMED the French teaching specialist in Perpignan French conversation classes in Perpignan & Céret all year aroundd French for professionals Intensive French Program - 1,2 or 4 weeks Semester program for study abroad students Junior programs 21 bis, Av. Général de Gaulle - Perpignan between the train station & La FNAC FREE TEST ONLINE www.alfmed.com [email protected] 37 AméliorezvotreAnglais

Orthographe to break= casser ‘IE’ ou ‘EI’? MAIS…. Règle grammaticale… ‘I’ before ‘E’ except after ‘C’ to break downw tomber en panne ‘I’ before ‘E’ except after ‘C’ (voiture, machine) believe ...... croire ceiling ...... plafond s’eff ondrer (personne) chief ...... chef deceive ...... tromper enfoncer (porte) fi eld ...... champ receive ...... recevoir pier ...... jetée receipt ...... récépissé too brereak in entrer par infraction thief ...... voleur toto breakak offff mais n’oubliez pas toutes les exceptions bien sur ! casser (pièce, morceau) vein ...... veine foreign ...... étranger rompre (accord, rapport) weigh ...... peser height...... hauteur interrompre (conversation)) ancient ...... antique leisure ...... loisirs to breaka out effi cient ...... effi cace weird ...... bizarre either ...... l’un ou l’autre se déclarer their ...... leur et encore et encore…… (incendie, épidémie) s’échapper (prisonnier)

Pouvez vous trouver les équivalents en français de ces phrases 1 - utiles en anglais, qui utilisent toutes unea couleur la police blackmail b être à découvert1 to be caught red-handed 2 c être ravi, très content to be in the red 3 4 d un petit mensonge to be in the pink e être en bonne santé once in a blue moon 5 f être très en colère a white lie 6 g être pris la main dans le sac to be blue in the face 7 h rarement a red herring 8 I le chantage to be tickled pink 9 j une fausse piste the boys in blue 10 38 Answers on page 57

Demandez à quelqu’un qui lit couramment l’anglais de vous lire ce poème pour vous rappeler que, comme dit Very bad joke Lord Cromer à la fi n, «Sounds and letters disagree” Q: What do you call a Our Queer Language pig with three eyes? Lord Cromer (1841-1917) A: A piiig. When the English tongue we speak, Why is “break” not rhymed with “freak”? Will you tell me why it’s true We say “sew” but also “few” Phrase utile And the maker of a verse Weather permitting Cannot cap his “horse” with “worse”? “Beard” sounds not the same as “heard”; Sous reserve de beau temps “Cord” is diff erent from “word”; Cow is “cow,” but low is “low”; “Shoe” is never rhymed with “foe.” Good advice Think of “hose” and “dose” and “lose”; “Doll” and “roll” and “home” and “some.” Never take a sleeping And since “pay” is rhymed with “say,” pill and a laxative Why not “paid” with “said,” I pray? on the same night. We have “blood” and “food” and “good”; “Mould” is not pronounced as “could.” And why “done” but “gone” and “lone”? Is there any reason known? ‘Chalk and Cheese’ And, in short, it seems to me, Things, or people described as, ‘likee chalk anandd cheese’ Sounds and letters disagree. are very diff erent and have nothing in ccommon.omm

2 - H - is for happy Trouvez les défi nitions de ces mots suivants, qui commencent tous avec H home for bees 1 a hail small rodent similar to a mouse. 2 b hornet bird of prey. 3 c heart balls of ice from the sky 4 d hedgehog female chicken. 5 e heel back part of the foot 6 f hive pumps blood through your body 7 g helmet a fl ying, stinging insect 8 h hen to protect your head 9 I hamster small mammal with prickly coat 10 j hawk 39 Letsgetphysical... Let’s Get Physical!

Hands up if the nearest you Did you know that there And what could be more have got recently to partaking are around 100 calories in exciting on a summer’s day than in sporty sunshine activity is that small glass of wine hurtling down a rushing river raising that glass of Roussillon and even more in that cold on a raft? How about starting red or refreshing San Miguel beer? So let’s get physical! off with ‘hot-dogging’, two to your lips. OK. Put your There are so many possibilities people in an infl atable canoe, hands down! in this land of sun, sea and or why not try ‘hydrospeed’, sexy mountains. And you don’t swimming turbulent waters have to be super fi t for all of clinging to a rather special them. We have put together a fl oat? Are you tempted? few fun activity suggestions, Maybe you would prefer supervised by competent to try ‘canyoning’, jumping and friendly professionals, into natural pools, abseiling which are guaranteed to down spectacular waterfalls, bring a smile to your face shimmying and sliding over rocks and a tingle to your body. in a watery cascade, surrounded

40 by mind blowing scenery? to their Axat location are a Or perhaps you would delight to drive. Whether the prefer something slightly D117 from Estagel towards gentler, like ‘tubbing’ down the Quillan or from Prades to river on a specially designed Mosset and over the Col de infl atable tyre. Great fun. Jau to Axat, the countryside With two fabulous locations through which you pass is the next left. You will be kitted in Axat and Marquixanes, dramatic and grand. Arriving at out in wet suits, life jackets and Extérieur Nature is well set up the roundabout of the bears, helmets, driven to a launch to guarantee unforgettable at the junction of the D117 pad……. and you’re off , swirling adventure. For white water and D118, continue towards through Axat, round the bear’s frolics such as rafting, tubbing, Quillan . Almost immediately roundabout, through Martin de hotdogging….. all roads leading on your left is a restaurant. Take Lys, in an exhilarating, whirling

41 Letsgetphysical...

slip, slide and shimmy down waterfalls, wade through underground rivers….? The canyoning park at Argelès Adventure is a unique water park just outside Argelès, based around a man-made canyon. The rock may be artifi cial but the excitement certainly is not! A variety of ropes, nets, and zip lines hang precariously over rock pools. The circuits are all supervised by qualifi ed instructors, who are able to give watery ride down the Aude. of nets, ropes, zip wires and other you safety instruction in English, All the guides have state obstacles, which will all challenge and help you to adapt the course diplomas, they speak English, your skill and courage. Non to your level. There is also a they are experienced, participants can sit in the on-site high-wire forest adventure park professional, and fun. Their café and watch their loved ones with tree top tomfoolery to make enthusiasm is infectious. swinging through the branches Tarzan beat his chest in delight. Set in a wooded adventure or bobbing down the stream. And don’t forget Aqualand in playground by the river, Extérieur And after a hard day Saint Cyprien, a very pleasant Nature in Marquixanes just off messing about on the river, the alternative to the beach if the N116 between Ille sur Tet restaurant El Tip Tap awaits you you’re tired of sand in every and Prades will introduce you to with delicious and reasonably orifi ce – a great day out for parts of the P-O lesser mortals priced Catalan dishes and live both little and big people. never see. Jumps, short natural music most weekend evenings Maybe you’re looking for a slides, abseiling, leaping and throughout the summer. slower return to fi tness. Join sliding through waterfalls….. And did you know that you qualifi ed fi tness instructor Or try the increasingly diffi cult don’t need to go up into the Martine of Energym, Céret, beside runs high up in the trees, a series mountains to canyon, abseil, the lake at Saint Jean Pla de Corts on Thursday 10th or Thursday 17th June from 9h15 – 10h15 for gentle exercise with ‘chi balls’ for the young at heart and the not-so-young! Just turn up. Or why not spend a memorable day in the high mountain pastures, on an organised walk by the farmer/ producers of La Rosée des Pyrenées, to meet the cattle in 42 Acrobranche and Zip Wire Park Argeles 2 € discount on presentation of P-O Life adventure 2 PParksarks 1 DDestinationestination MMaximumaximum ThrillsThrills!

All the thrills of a natural canyon in a unique safe, supervised environment

7 Impasse Copernic EEnglishnglish SSpeakingpeaking (Direction St-Cyprien) AREGELS SUR MER IInstructorsnstructors 04 68 95 41 66 www.argeles-aventures.com43 Letsgetphysical... their summer grazing grounds and to talk to the men and women who raise them? The farmers themselves lead a series of day long ‘balades’ from June to September. The walk includes an excellent ‘grillade’, local fruit juice and good Roussillon wine. Ring 04 68 05 25 80 or 06 24 41 01 18 to book For a completely diff erent summer sport in the mountains, the least and the top of the wheels? Those with driving have you considered downhill telecabine is the perfect place for licences can head for the mountain biking in Les Angles? a picnic tho best not to eat too hills and those without a Hire a specially adapted bike, much if you don’t want to lose licence to thrill can head for take it up to the top of the ski your lunch on the way down! AccroQuads near Ille Sur Têt, slopes in the telecabine, and If you long for the thrill of where their circuits are on 3 hurtle back down! The descent a Harley, but don’t quite trust hectares of private land, so by either the long and gentle yourself on two wheels,why you can really open up that green run or the slightly steeper not hire a quad bike, a kind throttle without getting dizzy. blue run is exhilarating to say of motorcycle with four large And don’t forget that

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TTwowo uunique,nique, ssafe,afe, ccoursesourses ssetet iinn tthreehree hectareshectares ofof stunningstunning countrysidecountryside SSitit bback,ack, rrelaxelax iinn oourur SSnacknack BarBar OOrr rentrent a QuadQuad oror MountainMountain wwithith coveredcovered sunsun terraceterrace aandnd BBikeike fforor thethe dayday - anan eenjoynjoy excellentexcellent viewsviews ooff aallll tthehe uunforgettablenforgettable wayway toto eexplorexplore eexcitement!xcitement! tthehe surroundingsurrounding countrysidecountryside OOpenpen aallll yyearear rroundound SSpecialpecial ooffff ersers availableavailable onon fforor aallll aagesges ppresentationresentation ooff P-OP-O LifeLife 06 12 46 43 94 04 68 35 24 95 RN 116 – RODÈS (66320) www.accroquad.com 44 30 min Perpignan, 15 mins Prades, 5 mins Ille Sur Têt [email protected] you can ‘get physical’ all year round– it’s not just a summer thing. Rafting, hydrospeed, tubbing, canyoning, acrobranch, quadbiking, mountain biking, horseriding, water sports, climbing are just a few of the many activities available to you here in the Pyrenées- Orientales. Many of them are open all year round. In the next issue, we will take you winter canyoning…. or maybe you’d like to have a go at ice diving? Loads of possibilities. See you in the next edition!

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Highly Qualifi ed English Speaking Instructors ≈ RRaftingafting ≈ HHydroydro ≈ AAquaventurequaventure & CCanyoninganyoning ≈ V VTTTT eett RRandoando TTo book your adventuree call T 006 19 36 16 47 or pop innto “Ô 66 Bonheeurs” shop near thee Touurist Offi ce in Canet

[email protected]@aol.com wwww.pyrenees-outdoor-sports.comww.pyrenees-outdoor-sports.com wwww.rafting-adventure.comww.rafting-adventure.com 45 aaaaArt a life...

theEarth: Melodrama by Ellen Hall

beautiful and fabulously rich heroine in fl owing green robes face of “waste”. Is this our is ravished by a hungry crowd lead by men in business suits. future environment? ADoes she languish and die or is she saved? The good news is that The answer, dear friends, is in your hands! individuals can make a Such is the message of the between history, politics, diff erence. A panel discussing free outdoor photographic economics and biodiversity. the world’s shrinking resources exhibit at Argeles-sur-Mer, “La The worst case scenario is of drinking water, cites the Terre Vu du Ciel “. From 9 April represented by a photograph story of 6-year-old Ryan Hreljac to 26 September, a collection taken in the Mbeubeuss who in 1998 began collecting of aerial photographs of the Dumpsite near Dakar, Senegal. money in his school in Canada to Earth will be displayed along the Heaps of smoking rubbish bring water to African children. promenade of Argeles Plage. confront us with the grim Today Ryan’s Well Foundation Each image is accompanied by texts in French and English about the state of the planet, inviting us to think about how our world is changing and asking whether we want to be part of the problem or take up the challenge to become part of the solution. This year’s stunning images are the work of Yann Arthus Bertrand, photographer, passionate ecologist and founder of GoodPlanet. Looking down at earth from the air allows us to see, quite literally, the big picture. Each image is placed in its geographical context, as a red dot on a green world map. The texts off er information on the twisted relationship 46 has contributed to more than 120 projects in 9 countries. The mountain icecap, described in Hemingway’s “Snows of Kilimanjaro” written in 1938, today appears as a faint dusting of sugar atop a burnt bun. Amidst the gloom and doom of disappearing forests, marshlands and rivers, a striking green spot of hope is the patchwork of small-scale market gardens in Timbuktu, Mali. Another experiment in sustainable agriculture is the “algaculture” – drying algae- in South Korea. Go and take your children with the heroine and boo the can rescue mother Earth. and your grandchildren! The villains, but that is not enough. Full programme and more images will not leave you Go onto the website and information: unmoved. You will fall in love see how you and your family www.enfants-de-la-mer.fr.

47 Overaaaa a theborder... Top tips from our Forum Excavations at Empuries (Spain)

Flying from Girona airport with a few hours to kill? Empúries, (coming from the Greek “Emporion” meaning market place or shopping centre) lies midway between the Costa Brava town of L’Escala and the tiny village of Sant Martí. Let visitors to our forum on www.anglophone-direct.com tell you a little more about it, based on their personal experience. WeW visited the site at Empuries on StS Marti d’Empuries is fi ve minutes tthe way back from Girona airport awaya and worth a stop, particularly and would recommend it to anyone. later in the day when the crowds The setting is dramatic with its dissipate. entire sweep of the bay of Roses through to l’Escala. There are two Interestingly,In part of the Greek distinct settlements; the Greek town harbourh wall has survived for 2000++ closer to the coast and the Roman years and is still visible in the sea. town above it (look out for the WellW worth a stop. Like a sort of keystone with the carved phallus, mini Pompeii. We’ve been a couple always good for a cheap laugh). A of times on the way to L’Escala fascinating insight into the history (another place that’s good to visit). of the area and its richness and The beach between Empuries and desirability to foreigners even then.. the town is excellent too. There is a museum included in thee entry price (about six euros I think), Shhhhh! Don’t not large or impressive, as the site speaks for itself. There is ample parking, a little cafe and tell everybody! good loos... We particularly liked the fact that the site is still being excavated and we saw archaeologists in action. Fascinating.

48 It’s the swimming season

49 Things you might need t Who to call in an emergency MEDICAL unique main emergency number. In most countries Dial 15(or 112) for the SAMU however, including France and Britain, 112 operates (Service d’Aide Médicale alongside national emergency numbers. Urgente) for EMERGENCY When you call 112, the operator will either MEDICAL TREATMENT deal with the request directly or transfer The SAMU is the French hospital it to the appropriate emergency service based emergency medical service, providing (ambulance, fi re brigade, police, etc.). around the clock phone support, and swift and appropriate emergency call out. Dial 15 at any time if an emergency medical situation arises. FIRE They will: Dial 18 (or 112) for FIRES • give medical advice over the phone & ROAD ACCIDENTS • send ambulances where appropriate Sapeurs-pompiers (fi refi ghters • send a GP to your home and fi rst rescue) • send mobile resuscitation unit Eighty percent of the in absolute emergency sapeurs-pompiers (fi refi ghters) in France are • manage large scale crisis volunteers. They work closely with the SAMU and are trained and equipped to respond to For less urgent medical problems, dial 08 fi res, car accidents and emergency medical 20 20 41 42 (Perpignan) or 36 24 (national) situations. They are made up of professionals for SOS Médecins, a private doctor callout (SPP), military (SPM) and volunteers (SVP). and ambulance company. Twenty four hour You will probably have heard the emergency service. Visits are reimbursed by the Social sirens blasting out. This national network of 4,500 Security as long as you are eligible sirens is called the ‘réseau national d’alerte’ ( RNA), and would sound in three sequences of 1 minute MEDICAL AND GENERAL each, separated by a silence of Dial 112 from any fi ve seconds, if there were telephone (landline, to be an imminent and mobile, call box....) for ANY major catastrophe. EMERGENCY REQUIRING Do not be confused AN AMBULANCE, THE on the fi rst Wednesday FIRE BRIGADE, OR THE POLICE. of the month at midday, Most mobile phones can dial 112 calls even when the sirens are tried when the phone keyboard is locked or the out for just one minute, or phone is without a SIM card. Calls are free. by the short sequences used This is a European helpline and can be in some communes to alert called from any country in the EU. Do not volunteer fi remen to man their rely on operators to speak English. posts for fi re or accident. Some EU countries have introduced 112 as their 50 to know... USEFUL VOCAB

It is worthwhile ensuring that all members of your family have the basic French vocabulary needed to make an emergency call. English French Emergency! Urgence ! Help! Au secours ! Fire! - Au feu ! Thief! - Au voleur ! crash - une collisi ioon fl oood une innoondation

I have asthma ...... je suis asthmaatique I ne ed an inhhaler ...... j’ai besoin dd’un inhalateur I amm diiabetic ...... jee suis diabétique a heart attackk ...... une crise cardiaque a stroke ...... une attaque cérébrale She is in labourr ...... elle est en train d’acccoucher He is drowning ...... il se noye He is uunconscious ...... il a perdu connaaissance I nen ed a doctor/ambulance ...... Ill me faut un meddecin ...... /ambulance – Th e house/car is on fi re - ...... la maison/voiture a pris feu I have been burgled ...... jej me suis fait cammbrioler

History of the SAMU In 1792, Dominique LARREY, The SAMU was created in measures were imperative. Napoleon Bonaparte’s surgeon- the 1960s when a group of Despite initial scepticism, the in-chief used to treat casualties doctors wished to redress French Ministry of Transport directly, on the battle fi eld the balance between the contributed to the development in the hope of preventing treatment a casualty received of the fi rst pilot Hospital Mobile complications such as gangrene. in hospital compared to the Intensive Care Units (H-MICU) Immobilisation, excision and, if available treatment at a road and since then the SAMU with necessary, amputation were the accident or in a patient’s home, their SMUR (Service Mobile principal methods. Subsequent recognising that to increase the d’Urgence et Reanimation) has wars have confi rmed the patient’s chances of survival, gone from strength to strength importance of early treatment. quicker and better ‘on the spot’ www.samu-de-france.fr 51 P-OLife...

Cave language with Michael Brady

Genevieve von Petzinger explains why How did you go about studying the symbols in caves across France may be symbols and what did you fi nd? the earliest foundation of writing. At the outset I found that though records had been made of cave symbols at 146 sites in What started your study of the France, there was no anthology of them all symbols marked on the walls of that could be used for study. So I decided to Stone Age caves in France? compile one. I entered all the site records into I studied Stone-Age caves in France because it a database that I then manipulated to search has more of them than any other country. Stone for similarities. The results were astonishing: 26 Age people decorated their caves with paintings symbols were common among the sites. This and engravings and usually marked the walls implied that they comprise the earliest attempt around the paintings with symbols. The images to represent abstract ideas. If so, the assumed of animals and people are easily understood, date of the origin of writing must be pushed but the symbols have remained mysterious. back, from 5,000 years ago to 30,000 years ago. Viewing a painting and its surrounding symbols is somewhat like leafi ng through an illustrated Are there any sites with symbols magazine picked up while waiting for a delayed in the Pyrénées-Orientales? fl ight in a foreign airport, where you know neither Yes, two near Prades, both unique. The Grotte the language nor the alphabet it uses. You can Cova-Bastera near Villefranche-de-confl ent is a easily guess the theme of a story from its pictures, stand-alone, with no nearby cave to compare it though you can make no sense of the surrounding with. The Fornols Haut rock block near Compôme alphabetic characters. That was the challenge. has the only known examples of Palaeolithic I wanted to fi nd what the symbols meant. rock in the open air in France. There also are four

52

• Twelve recurring symbols engraved in rock. sites in neighbouring Ariège, most notably Grotte des Trois-Frères near Montesequieu-Avantès.

Can the symbols be deciphered? We don’t know. But history suggests that someday they may be. Egyptian hieroglyphs were long considered impossible to read, but were deciphered in the 19th century by French linguist Jean François Champollion. So perhaps the curiosity of some French schoolchild of today will lead to future deciphering.

• Genevieve von Petzinger is in the Department of Anthropology, University of Victoria, BC, Canada.

• Pictured In cave in Dordogne (Department 24), one of the oldest sites in France

53 P-OLife... TTIPPINGIPPING IN FRANCE What the tippees say…..

Céline, owner of Restaurant The English word ‘tip’ was originally an Coté Sud at Pollestres acronym for “To Insure Promptness.” “C’est vrai que ça fait plaisir mais Innkeepers would write this on a box ce n’est pas du tout obligatoire. by the door, later simplifi ed to “T.I.P.”, On ne doit pas se sentir obligé de to enable customers to show their donner un pourboire - on donne appreciation of good service. The French ou on ne donne pas. » word ‘pourboire’ means ‘in order to drink’, Christine, owner of Curcuma as the original intention was of course for Hair Salon, Pollestres the ‘tippee’ to have a drink on the ‘tipper’ « Bien sûr les pourboires ne sont pas obligatoires mais si un client In France, bars and restaurant are required by law ne donne rien, peut être qu’il to include and display the service/cover charge. n’est pas content. Nous, on met Tipping is strictly optional as ‘service compris’ ( SC), une boite à coté de la porte. Un – ‘service et taxe compris’ ( STC) or ‘prix nets/toutes deux euros suffi t. Les pourboires taxes comprises’ ( TTC) all mean that the service vont toujours aux employés, pas charges (usually 15%, even 20% of the price of au propriétaire ». the meal) are included. In fact, when you leave a Hélène, owner of LenyMontoya tip, you are really paying twice for your service. taxis in Maureillas Of course it is customary to reward good Les anglais trouvent que c’est service, but when questioned, most French cher de prendre un taxi en France people in this region were shocked at the idea mais c’est l’état qui décide la of leaving more than a couple of euros, feeling tarifi cation, pas nous. Recevoir that a tip was an occasional reward for really un pourboire est toujours good service, and insisted that two or three euros agréable. Combien ? Ah, ce n’est was enough, no matter how large the bill. The pas important – c’est le geste que British ‘10%’ was considered way over the top! compte !

54 USEFUL VOCAB obligatoire compulsory On ne doit pas se sentir… one shouldn’t feel… Un – deux euros suffi t - one or two euros are enough on met – we put effi caces – effi cient L’état – the state la tarifi cation – the pricing c’est le geste– it’s the gesture

Of course, Christmas tipping for the postman, (facteur) rubbish collectors (éboueurs) and fi remen (sapeurs- pompiers) when they come round with their christmas calendars, is always advisable to ensure smoothe post delivery, rubbish collection or house- fi re help. A contribution of €5 to €15 euros is much appreciated, and probably a worthwile investment on your part!

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To discover more about how we can [email protected] help contact: Ruby Laura Goold +33 (0)4 68 98 03 24 06 38 73 15 62 hussellbuilding.com www.lesjoursheureux66.com 55 P-OLife... Year Round Service for Residents & Second Home Owners Garden Maintenance, Cleaning, Key Holding, Pool Cleaning & Testing, (All services available all Property Maintenance. year round) Vacation Services Contact Mark or Susan Burden Tel/Fax 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 09 61 58 33 Email: [email protected] No Siret 479 317 620 00025

SARL GICO Place du 14 Juillet 66320 Joch Unique decorative pots • Renovation ccommissionsommissions uundertakenndertaken • Construction FForor a trulytruly originaloriginal giftgift • Refurbishments • Conversions CCallall : 0044 6688 3399 5588 2211 • Interior Design SStudiotudio vvisitsisits wwelcomeelcome • Decorative paint effects bbyy aarrangementrrangement (Marmoline-Stucco-Lime) [email protected] Tel/Fax 04 68 05 58 74 wwww.quirkydotcom.comww.quirkydotcom.com www.gico66.fr Mob 06 22 30 07 54 LIFELIFE BEGINSBEGINS AT CAP LIBERTÉ SENIORS !

Our fairs offer visitors all of this and much more through the diversity of our exhibitors and ex- tensive programme of conferences and special features. It’s the only fair in the Languedoc-Roussillon region that is dedicated to the over 50s. For Perpignan, and with the kind support of PO Life, we are introducing a brand new CAP LIBERTÉ SENIORS was held for the very feature entitled : fi rst time last year in Béziers It was a proven success for exhibitors and visitors. In 2010 it « ANGLOPHONE ANIMATION AREA » will be held at the Parc des Expositions in Perpignan 10 – 12 September, as well as in for which we are looking for English-speaking Nîmes 8-10 October and Béziers 22-24 October. exhibitors who provide services, assistance and The over-50s are recession-proof and active; activities not only for the increasing Anglophone have time to enjoy new sports and visit new population in the Pyrénées-Orientales, but holiday destinations; need healthcare support, also for French residents too. Come and be part energy and habitat solutions and financial of this new adventure… guidance, etc..

For exhibitor & visitor enquiries please contact Judith (English-speaking): 56 Tel.33(0)686 435 925 or email: [email protected] Bank holidays Holidays «jours fériés» 15th August - Assomption Celebrates the Catholic belief that the Virgin Mary’s spirit and body ascended to heaven. Most shops For owners of Second and businesses close and there are festivities Homes: in the Perpignan throughout France. and Coastal areas • Key Holding School holidays for our region (Zone A) Class will start again on Thursday 2nd September • Changeovers • Handyman Services for rental periods • Property Management Test your french - answers and Maintenance 1. 1d 2g 3i 4c 5j 6a 7f 8e 9h 10b 2. 1a 2a 3b 4a 5b 6b 7a 8a 9a 10b • Pool Maintenance 3. 1h 2g 3j 4b 5d 6c 7f 8e 9a 10i • Garden Maintenance 4. 1e 2c 3d 4a 5f 6b 5. 1d 2h 3i 4g 5a 6j 7e 8b 9f 10c Feel free to call Alan on: Améliorez votre Anglais - Réponses…s… +33 .(0)6.33.06.51.55 11.. 1i1i 2g2g 3b3b 4e4e 55hh 66dd 77ff 88jj 99cc 110a0a [email protected] 22.. 1f1f 2i2i 3j3j 44aa 55hh 66ee 77cc 88bb 99gg 110d0d

57 P-OLife... Newly Opened Fully Licensed and Insured Cattery near Prades The cat is out of the bag www.lepalaisdeschats.com “Parting is such sweet sorrow” said Juliet to Romeo, yet there is nothing less sweet for animal lovers than s 3PACIOUSPENSFORMAXIMUM enjoyment and comfort to leave a beloved pet behind when we head off on s 6ISITSWELCOMEBY holiday. But never fear – help is at hand at the Palais appointment Des Chats near Prades. s #OLLECTIONSERVICE Safe, comfortable and spacious, this small cattery AVAILABLE only takes a small number of cats at any one time, to ensure your pussy receives plenty of loving attention. Carol & Stuart Metcalfe 5 Chemin de l’Horte 66500 CODALET Tel: 04 68 96 40 80 06 16 60 37 15 [email protected]

58 Cows give off the chemical signature that mosquitoes crave. They are warm and release certain plant chemicals (from eating grass) and produce carbon dioxide with every breath. Create your own mosquito trap by placing a cow in your garden!!

Get me to the plane on time How lovely to live or holiday in the beautiful coastal or mountain resorts of the Pyrénées-Orientales. But how frustrating and expensive to join mainstream transport to Girona airport without paying an arm and a leg to just arrive at their departure points. Perpicat is an English speaking minibus company who are happy to pick up and drop off at any of the smaller towns and villages along their main routes. Reliable and convenient, whether you’re travelling from Collioure, Canet or Ceret the price directly to Girona is the same. Avoid The Stress, Hassle And Expense Of Driving To Girona And Barcelona Airports PERPIGNAN GIRONA

Sit back, relax and let Perpicaticaticicacatatt RegularRReegguulalarar ddedepdeparturesepapararturturureresess fromfroffrroomm take you there in comfort convenientccoonnvveennieieentnntt loclollocationsocacatatioiononsnss : CollioureCCoCollollioliououureree ArAArgelesrgegelesleess SuSurSurr MerMMeerr SaintSaSaiainintntt CyprienCCyypprrieienn CanetCCaCananenetett EnEn RRoussillonoouusssssilsillolononn LeLeBe BoulouBoBouBouloulouulouou For time tables, prices, reservations or further Information 04 68 80 69 98 or 06 87 70 29 32 1616 rueruuee Llluuciia,a Pererpipignanggnnaann www.perpicat.com [email protected] The Airport TransferTrTraTranranansnsnsfsfefefererr SSpSpeSpecialists!ppececieciaciacialialialisalistlististsststs!s!! 59 P-OLife... Who to contact in an Emergency SAMU (medical emergency) 15 Police emergency 17 Fire service emergency 18 European emergency line 112 Directory enquiries 118 008 International directory enquiries 118 700 Cancer Support France Support for English speaking International mastercard 08 00 90 13 87 cancer patients and their families Local weather forecast 08 36 68 02 66 Lutter Contre le Cancer en France tel: 04.68.69.01.37 GDF (gas problems) 08 10 43 30 66 EDF (electricity problems) 08 10 333 066 SOS Doctor 24/24 08 20 20 41 42 Feeling down? Emergency vet 04 68 55 55 83 Anti-poison centre 04 91 75 25 25 Call us up! SOS Help in france Perpignan hospital 04 68 61 66 33 CPAM (English spk serv) 0811 36 36 46 01 46 21 46 46 Cancer support France 04 68 69 01 37 www.soshelpline.org

You can use the The European emergency number 112 in any EU country from any telephone. You do not need a card or money to ring this number from a pay phone. 112 may also be used from a mobile to connect you with all emergency services.

P.CHARCOS & D. MARY

Private individual Private health insurance Enterprise Choice of several options Farmer Agents Généraux Allianz Professionnal Orias 07/021918 & 09/049586 Car, motor bike All types of guarantee proposed Prades 04 68 96 31 50 Vernet 04 68 05 30 89 [email protected] House insurance Rivesaltes 04 68 29 82 36 All kinds of residence

Fax : 04 68 96 61 07 www.allianz.fr/charcos Professional insurance Commercial premises and professional civil liability Contact Damien or Stéphanie for advice and solutions in English. Ask us for free quotations ! 60 P-O Life can be found at the following distribution points and many smaller ones. All main tourist offi ces Perpignan Airport Palais des Congrès Argelès: Carrefour Le Boulou: Expert, Leclerc, Intermarché Canet: Château Esparrou, Hyper Casino Cabestany: Asia Center , Mas Guerido Céret: Intermarché, Champion Collioure: Château Royal Elne: Champion Ille sur Têt: Carrefour Market Laroque: Carrefour Market, Café des Artistes Perpignan: Leroy Merlin Pollestres: Intermarché Port Vendres: PV Immo Prades: Super U, Intermarché Pyrénées 2000: Casino Supermarket Thuir: Champion Trouillas: Cave de Trouillas Many of our advertisers also stock P-O Life, so remember to pick up a copy the next time you’re in their shop, offi ce or restaurant... TO SUBSCRIBE TO P-O LIFE TODAY! It’s ONLY 25 EUROS - payment by French cheque made out to ANGLOPHONE DIRECT

Name (please print) ...... Address ...... Return to : P-O Life, Chemin du Mas Fourcade, 66480 Maureillas - France

61 Englishspeakingservices...

Architects Computer help & Maintenance Home/garden/decoration Ari Hantke Architecture .06 74 81 11 43 Patrick Boyle ...... 04 68 87 17 35 Andrew Watts Forestry ...04 68 87 34 85 Broadband installation, repairs, upgrades, Forestry and fencing - débrousaillage advice www.les-alberes.net/systems/ Bakeries Atout Kro- kitchens, tiles ....04 68 67 29 66 Cambounac - Céret ...... 04 68 87 14 69 Education & translation Aubergine ...... 06 25 18 18 10 made to measure curtains, upholstery B & B - Hotels Alfmed - Perpignan ...... 04 68 62 20 20 [email protected] L’Andreu - Corsavy ...... 04 68 37 57 22 Carole Howarth - Perpignan ...... Expert ...... 04 68 83 19 62 ...... 06 01 93 55 04 -electrical appliances Chalet de Bonheur - Formiguères Language training- [email protected] ...... 06 83 75 67 47 Garden Services ...... 06 34 68 16 19 Carole Cassoly - Prades area all garden services ...... 06 11 44 15 95 Builders admin help / translation MSB Property Services ....04 68 51 80 46 Dave Taylor ...... 04 68 39 77 15 PromoLangues - Céret ...... 04 68 87 48 10 Torredemer - Shutters / blinds kitchens, bathrooms ...... 04 68 87 01 96 Sue Charnley...... 06 04 42 78 54 Done & Dusted ...... 04 68 84 55 36 Language tuition and translation Vallespir Paysage - gardens Ian Rye - builder - Elne ...... 04 68 39 75 45 ...... 06 12 99 25 52 [email protected] Practical IGC - Camélas ...... 06 20 84 00 24 Insurance French lessons AGF Céret - R. Estebe-Rigall ..06 43 80 73 51 Leroy Merlin - DIY infos .....04 68 85 77 13 [email protected] Phill Ward - Alberes ...... 04 68 89 15 60 AXA - St Génis - Cô ...... 04 68 89 72 75 kitchens/bathrooms - 06 37 16 40 69 [email protected] Individual/small groups Allianz -Prades, Vernet, Rivesaltes ...... 04 68 96 31 50 P.O. Interiors ...... 06 72 42 07 04 St.Cyprien or at your home www.allianz.fr/charcos SARL Giko ..04 68 05 58 74 /06 22 30 07 54 www.gico66.fr Estate agencies Locksmith Hussell Building...... 04 68 98 03 24 Canigou Country Securicle ...... 06 23 69 46 81 www.hussellbuilding.com Fiona Beazley ...... 06 77 74 47 15 ...... 04 68 21 86 26 P.V. Construction ...... 04 68 82 12 46 First Immo ...... 04 68 84 81 81 Locked out ? Call us ! ( houses, cars.....) Ille sur Têt - fi [email protected] Roussillon Developpements Ltd ...... 04 68 96 08 01 Loreto Immobilier ...... 04 68 82 05 70 Opticians English-builders-66.com Collioure [email protected] Port-Vendres ...... 04 68 85 12 92 Ute LIEBSCHER ...... 04 68 84 55 27 Med & Mountain Properties traditional plaster, all fi nishing ...... 04 68 56 54 22 Plumbers/Electricians www.medandmountain.com [email protected] Languedoc Electrics ...... 04 68 42 37 97 REAL Estates ...... 04 68 83 19 50 www.real-estates.fr Robert Morley ...... 04 68 83 38 54 Car repair/breakdown / sales www.morleyrenovation.eu Zenith Sotheby’s ...... 04 68 57 73 14 Garage du Tech - Céret ...... 04 68 87 33 51 VNelec - Stephan ...... 06 13 24 87 47 Catteries & Kennels Health and Fitness Walter v.d. Hoogen ...... 06 25 24 00 81 Le Palais Des Chats ...... 04 68 96 40 80 Anya Gore (MAR, FFR, CertZB) ...... 06 16 60 37 15 Refl exology, Zero Balancing ...06 31 55 30 02 Pools www.lepalaisdeschats.com [email protected] TPM ...... 06 75 46 93 65 Beauty Slim - Pollestres .....04 30 44 70 16 [email protected] cleaning, maintenance, accessories Cleaning services Fabienne - Shiatsu ...... 06 61 83 82 44 Blanchisserie du Moulin .04 68 39 30 18 Laundry service Vincent F...... 06 37 05 85 78 Sport & Leisure www.vincent-f.com Accro Quad & Velos 66 ...... 06 12 46 43 94 Personalised exercise in your home ...... 04 68 35 24 95 www.accroquad.com Argeles Aventure Acrobranche Park ...... 04 68 95 41 66 www.argeles-aventures.com 62 Sport & Leisure ...cont Restaurants & Bars Aqualand ...... www.aqualand.fr Chaudron Magique - Céret ...... 04 68 87 40 84 Chalet du Ski ...... 04 68 04 49 84 Le pied dans le plat-Céret 04 68 87 17 65 Exterieur Organization ...04 68 05 72 12 www.exterieur-nature.com Els Fogons de Canadal... 0034 972 556 951 www.elsfogonsdecanadal.es Grande Stade ...... 04 68 21 01 33 www.tourisme-saint-cyprien.com/ Auberge du Cedre ...... 04 68 37 25 84 www.aubergeducedre.fr Pyrenees Outdoor ...... 06 19 36 16 47 www.pyrenees-outdoor-sports.com El Gaucho ...... 04 68 63 14 77 www.el-gaucho.fr Energym - Céret ...... 04 68 87 28 50 Las Papallonas ...... 04 68 56 85 23 Yoga for Health - Céret .....04 68 22 72 94 Riberach ...... 04 68 64 59 78 Print & design www.riberach.com Blyth Spirit ...... www.blyth-spirit.com Auberge des Albères ...... 04 68 89 88 38 www.auberge-des-alberes.com Canigou Creations ...... 04 68 05 86 71 La Table de Cuisine ...... 04 68 95 42 06 [email protected] Property & Project management APS - [email protected] ....06 80 88 80 72 Ski info, hire and accessories Keyholding,Cleaning,Maintenance Chalet du ski - Les Angles ..04 68 04 49 84 Eve solution - Port-Vendres ...... 06 70 70 62 10 Sky TV installation TPM - Maureillas...... 06 75 45 93 65 British TV in France ...... 04 68 69 83 76 www.tpm66.com ...... 06.82.10.55.35 Les Jours Heureux 66 ...... 06 38 73 15 62 www.british-tv-in-france.co.uk www.lesjoursheureux.66.com Skydigi ...... 04 68 87 18 30 Property Services 66 ...... 06 33 06 51 55 www.propertyservices.com Transport MSB Property Services Frogbus ...... www.frogbus.com ...... 04 68 51 80 46 or 06 09 61 58 33 [email protected] Perpicat ...... 04 68 80 69 98 www.perpicat.com Removal Wine Britannia Sandersteads 020 8669 6688 [email protected] Riberach Cave, Hotel & Restaurant ...... 04 68 50 30 10 Van with human ...... 06 3468 1619 www.riberach.com throughout PO - [email protected] Britannia Sandersteads Beauty Slim 04 30 44 70 16 00 44 (0)208 669 6688 Pollestres - Beauty Fortnightly around France treatments, slimming aids Free quotes

ADVERTISE IN OUR DIRECTORY From ONLY 90 EUROS (HT) per year - contact Michelle on 06 12 22 23 70 or email [email protected] 63