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Home , California cuisine, Masa (restaurant)

Los Angeles 2 and drink— —Food and drink

Restaurants Top tables ha d t t s o in Food and o g s F — The Thai drink dishes hit — notes of Savouring the city

LA’s food scene is thriving. The weather helps: a Mediterranean climate and close proximity to the fertile Central Valley means that the freshest ingredients wind up on your plate. Then, of , there are those heaven-sent grapevines. The city has also become a magnet for nationwide talent in recent years. And while Mexico has exerted the punchiest and most palpable influence on the flavours favoured by Angelenos, the contributions of the Korean, Japanese and Alimento, Silver Lake Night 1 Market Song, Silver Lake Chinese communities Intimate Italian Hot stuff have been hefty too. It all adds up to a heady mix. LA native Zach Pollack was Young Kris Yenbamroong There’s something for studying architecture in Florence (pictured right) cut his culinary everyone, from hip haunts when he decided to switch his teeth at his family’s restaurant. on the city’s east side focus to food. He opened Alimento What you’ll find at his own place to laidback venues on in 2014, a low-key but polished is authentic, spicy Thai food and restaurant in Silver Lake that a convivial atmosphere. Aharn glam the shores of Venice and serves regional Italian dishes, lao is the name of the game here, Santa Monica in the west, from the obscure to the familiar, which roughly translates as “food with plenty of Hollywood alongside a strong list of tasty that facilitates drinking and having glitz and old-school natural wines. Grab a table on the fun among friends”. The decor glamour in between. ivy-clad patio and sample some of is kooky, the Singha beer classic While at times you may Pollack’s signature , freshly and the neighbourhood vibes real. be caught off-guard by made each day – the tortellini You can’t go wrong with the larb in brodo (broth), hailing from (a classic minced- salad) but an early closing, you’ll Bologna, would be the highlight be prepared for the heat packed never suffer a shortage of any menu. into all of Yenbamroong’s dishes. of places to wine and dine 1710 Silver Lake Boulevard, 90026 3322 West Sunset Boulevard, 90026 in Los Angeles. 11 323 928 2888 11 323 665 5899 alimentola.com nightmarketsong.com

028 029 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

Sushi Gen, Little Tokyo Catch this fish

This hole-in-the-wall restaurant, set in a less-than- picturesque strip mall, is a rare gem; authentic, unpretentious and serving some of the best sushi in town. Step inside and try to claim a coveted table or a spot at the lengthy wooden sushi bar. Then watch (and eat) as the meticulous, white-clad chefs roll out salmon-skin makis, fatty-tuna sushi, sea bream sprinkled with lemon and salt, and scallop sashimi served in the shell. A nice touch are the complimentary terry cotton towelettes that you would receive in Tokyo to cleanse your hands. 422 East 2nd Street, 90012 11 213 617 0552 sushigen-dtla.com

Cassia, Santa Monica Popular pan-Asian

Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef Bryant Ng teamed up with his wife Kim and restaurateur couple Zoe Nathan and Joshua Loeb for this project. A celebration of Southeast Broken Spanish, Downtown Asian – and California’s Mexican with a twist exceptional produce – Cassia is housed in a beautiful 1930s art It takes guts to open a restaurant deco building, the dining room of in a quiet part of Downtown (near which can hold up to 200. We’d Must-try Staples Center) – and evenings recommend the kaya (coconut Banana split from Van only to boot – but that’s exactly jam) toast or any of the dishes Leeuwen, various venues what chef Ray García has done, made with caught fresh on This ice-cream company may La familia grande serving hearty the Cali coast. The spicy laksa soup be an import from Brooklyn but — with a refined twist. “This is a and Vietnamese pot au feu (beef it’s now firmly settled in Los Broken Spanish has a personal story of a third-generation ) are also top-notch. Angeles, with shops in the Arts little sister, BS Taquería, Angeleno of Mexican descent,” 1314 7th Street, 90401 District, Culver City and Franklin located a few blocks away. It’s says García. “We like to say that 11 310 393 6699 Village, plus multiple trucks on more casual and open all day we’re authentically inauthentic.” cassiala.com the road. The banana split is but it offers the same house- The tortillas, made in-house, exactly what Van Leeuwen is all are mind-blowing. Also try the pressed heirloom-corn tortillas Oops, I’ve about: keeping it classic with and homely atmosphere. chochoyotes (dumplings with fried- overdone simple, high-quality ingredients. bstaqueria.com garnish in a garlicky, spicy it. I better vanleeuwenicecream.com broth) or the tender rabbit main. hit Muscle 1050 South Flower Street, 90015 Beach 11 213 749 1460 gym brokenspanish.com

030 031 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

Petit Trois, Hollywood Must-try Bakeries Bar Amá, Downtown A little piece of Paris Salad pitta from Madcapra Tempting Tex-Mex at Grand Central Market, In Los Angeles the humble loaf Ludo Lefebvre’s homage to the Downtown has experienced a renaissance Chef Josef Centeno opened this bistros he left behind in his native This off-menu item at Sarah over the past few years. bar-cum-restaurant, his second France may seem incongruously Hymanson and Sara Kramer’s Here’s our pick of places for venture in Downtown, in 2012. placed given its strip-mall location. stand bursts with flavour naturally leavened , It’s a tribute to his mother and Once you cross the threshold of thanks to a heavy blend of buttery morning pastries and grandmother for their culinary this intimate 22-seater, however, Mediterranean . Falafel, -stuffed specialties. inspirations (amá means “mother”), it’s as if you’ve been transported fresh herbs, pickled onion and with a menu rooted in casual to Paris. greens sit atop a warm grilled 01 Superba Food 1 , Tex-Mex cuisine. The cashew queso At marble-topped counters, flatbread and an indulgent Venice: This Venice (cheese) is popular, as are the hefty French classics such as steak layer of tahini. outlet has a wide range enchiladas. If you’re after lighter tartare and escargots are served madcapra.com of baked goods on offer fare the snapper with chimichurri alongside a carefully chosen in its oversized industrial will do the trick. Then there are the selection of wines. The inspired space (that doubles as signature tequila-based drinks; we cocktail list is the only giveaway a casual-fare restaurant). recommend The Nacho (tequila that outside the door is Hollywood Superba serves everything blanco with a chilli-lime shrub, and not the Left Bank. from classic sourdough to Campari, citrus and honey). 718 Highland Avenue, 90038 pain au levain and while 118 West 4th Street, 90013 11 323 468 8916 pretzel croissants sound 11 213 687 8002 petittrois.com like sins against classic bar-ama.com pastry, they work. superbafoodandbread.com 02 Larder Baking Company, various locations: As a child at a boarding school in Venezuela, master baker Nathan Dakdouk would spy on nuns baking bread in the night. Today he’s Ostrich Farm, Echo Park baking a lengthy list Elegant of some of LA’s best loaves, including rye and This restaurant, opened in late 2014 caraway, and a blueberry by husband-and-wife team Jaime boule packed with fruit. Turrey and Brooke Fruchtman, is larderbakingco.com a place to linger – as demonstrated 03 Lodge Bread, Culver by the constant teeming of devout City: Organic, wholegrain, N/naka, Palms patrons. The simple elegance of the long-fermented, high- Lucky 13 space – whitewashed walls, inviting hydration loaves are what green banquettes and brass fixtures you’ll find at the bakery Niki Nakayama (pictured, on left) is – combined with comforting run by Or Amsalam, arguably Japan’s most celebrated dishes such as creamy polenta and Alexander Phaneuf female chef. Her restaurant roast chicken keep it welcoming and Alan Craig. This N/naka specialises in kaiseki – a despite the potential wait time. dedicated bunch is all traditional multi-course – and It’s Fruchtman’s keen eye that’s about producing very features dishes such as uni-butter responsible for the interiors while dark, Euro-inspired bread sea bass along with classic sashimi. we have Turrey’s palate to thank from a Bassanina oven. Despite kaiseki’s historic heritage, for the menu. The Sunday-night pizzas Nakayama’s version is fresh and 1525 West Sunset Boulevard, 90026 made from superior modern. The dishes centre on 11 213 537 0657 are a highlight. seasonal ingredients (with greenery ostrichfarmla.com lodgebread.com from the chef’s own garden) so the menu changes regularly, as Am I being fattened do the many wines and sakés that up? Are you sure complement it. this isn’t 3455 South Overland Avenue, 90034 an owl 11 310 836 6252 farm? n-naka.com

032 033 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

The Larchmont, Larchmont Village Baroo, Hollywood

aty trea e t Local favourite Good Korea move M — s Bestia’s This neighbourhood haunt in a At first glance this South Korean charcuterie cosy Arts & Crafts house has been venue doesn’t seem that promising is made on-site serving wholesome fare since 2013. a prospect: it’s cheap as chips, tiny Chef Michael Bryant’s cuisine is and located in a mall. Happily California-meets-Europe: a small, though, Baroo exceeds all seasonal menu inspired by his expectations. The kimchi fried southern upbringing and French – with its sous vide poached egg, roots. While the is known gremolata and pineapple-jalapeño for its harissa scallops and charred salsa – or the spicy oxtail ragú octopus, Bryant’s traditional fried with homemade noodles could chicken is also a perennial favourite. easily the tables of any The restaurant has quite a fine-dining establishment. Kwang following among celebrities so Uh (pictured, left) and partner tables can be scarce. Not to worry: Matthew Kim don’t skimp on barman Chris Kramer will mix you visuals, ingredients or flavour. a cocktail as you wait on the patio. 5706 Santa Monica Boulevard, 90038 5750 Melrose Avenue, 90038 11 323 819 4344 11 323 464 4277 baroola.strikingly.com thelarchmont.com

Tacos Wolf, West Hollywood Edible artistry 01 Guisados, Boyle Heights: Tacos don’t Chef Marcel Vigneron opened come much more Wolf in early 2016. The decor and authentic than this. The the music may be a little flashy for signage is underwhelming our tastes but the dishes come out but the food will impress, of the kitchen bursting with flavour. especially the stewed- “We want our food and culture meat tacos. to capture the zeitgeist that makes guisados.co up modern-day Los Angeles,” says 02 Villa Moreliana, Vigneron. The beetroot is dressed Downtown: The menu like a work of art, the cod sits may be small but that beautifully in a flavourful broth doesn’t stop the punters and the burnt carrots are cooked from queuing up to sample to perfection. And then there are Bestia, Arts District what are perhaps LA’s the crispy potatoes... Light as Pizza and pasta perfection finest carnitas (slow- air on the inside with a perfectly cooked pork inspired crunchy exterior. This place is so popular that by the traditions of 7661 Melrose Avenue, 90046 a reservation may take weeks (so Michoacan). 11 323 424 7735 plan ahead). Walk-ins can find grandcentralmarket.com wolfdiningla.com space among the ample bar seating: 03 Ricky’s Fish Tacos, a bonus is the appetite-stimulating East Hollywood: This view of the woodfired oven baking food truck is something the pizzas – doughy slices of heaven. of a legend. Serving the Husband-and-wife owners Ori East Hollywood, Los Menashe and Genevieve Gergis Feliz and Silver Lake have created a rustic Italian menu catchment area, it’s where with and charcuterie made to go if you’ve had enough in-house. The casarecce al pomodoro of meat-heavy tacos; (semolina pasta with , fresh fillings include fish, prawn ricotta and basil) and the saffron and even lobster. pasta parcel with braised lamb and The truck is usually at pine nuts are true crowd-pleasers. 1400 North Virgil Avenue 2121 East 7th Place, 90021 11 213 514 5724 bestiala.com

034 035 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

Juice bars Gjelina, Venice Brunch bonanza In a city as obsessed with health and beauty as LA, it’s This is something of a Venice no surprise that Angelenos go institution and a brand in its wild for cold-pressed juices. own right; Gjusta bakery (see page Here’s our pick of the best 43) is from the same team. The spots for a fresh squeeze. decor is modern, if a little generic, but what brings the punters here 01 Juice Served Here, in their hordes is the cuisine. citywide: Given the Good for brunch, the menu is fashion-industry extensive – think everything from backgrounds of founders to pizzas – meaning Alex Matthews and you’re sure to find something Greg Alterman, it’s toothsome. The Moroccan baked not surprising that the eggs with merguez sausage, packaging of LA’s most swimming in tomato with beloved juice chain is yoghurt and coriander, will bust so pleasing to the eye. any hangover. The juices live up to the 1429 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, 90291 hype and friendly staff 11 310 450 1429 are always happy gjelina.com to assist, whether you’re after a cleansing green number or a Pot, Koreatown creamy Super Choc Choi’s morsels smoothie made with nuts and cacao. This venue is a tribute to South juiceservedhere.com and culture courtesy 02 Moon Juice, citywide: of Roy Choi, whose CV includes This chain borders pioneering the food-truck revolution on parody, with its all- in LA and inventing the Korean white interiors and fresh- taco. Pot opened in 2014 in the faced staff. With product polychrome Line Hotel and has names such as Blue delectable dishes from kimchi to Moon Protein and Sex hickory-smoked duck breast. The Dust, Moon Juice truly noodle-based hot pots are the main has the most “exotic” event and though the ingredients selection of juices around. may seem haphazard there’s method moonjuiceshop.com to Choi’s madness. The restaurant Norah, West Hollywood 03 Café Gratitude, also holds events such as Tribe Taco Gracias Madre, West Hollywood Outstanding food and service citywide: This brand Tuesday, a mellow evening of live Natural appeal may have some hippie music, tacos and cocktails. Norah opened amid much fanfare tendencies but the juices 3515 Wilshire Boulevard, 90010 Gracias Madre’s elegant interior – in early 2016. Despite its expansive are delicious and the 11 213 368 3030 with its tiled bar and natural lighting space on Santa Monica Boulevard staff charming. If you’re eatatpot.com – may distract you from the fact it doesn’t miss on making guests on the picky side, they that you’re looking at a plant-based feel welcome. The menu is also may even be kind enough menu. But it’s not a smokescreen: surprising: adventurous yet Walk-in style to make you a special the food makes this a firm favourite accessible. The food changes — concoction of your own. among omnivores and herbivores slightly every day but look out for Norah is perpetually popular, Don’t be alarmed if it alike. Think hearty tacos the uni-butter poached prawn and not least because of its comes with an affirmation and potato-masa cakes with salsa. cauliflower popcorn; or consider knowledgable and friendly from your server. Beverage director Jason Eisner going all-in with the tasting menu. staff. When the restaurant is cafegratitude.com brings a dizzying number of There is some questionable fully booked with reservations small-batch mezcals and tequilas art on the walls but that’s a minor grab a seat at the bar; it’s to the spirits list, plus an inventive Nothing like a detail compared to the outstanding also possible to stroll in and range of cocktails (including a non- tequila cocktail food and service. score a place at the high-top psychoactive line made to stimulate 8279 Santa Monica Boulevard, 90046 communal tables. with cannabis essential oils). an appetite 11 323 450 4211 8905 Melrose Avenue, 90069 for tacos norahrestaurant.com 11 323 978 2170 graciasmadreweho.com

036 037 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

Coffee Matsuhisa, Beverly Hills Blacktop, Arts District Perfect perks n be e an Nobu prototype Top-notch brews e s K — Before Nobu made chef Nobuyuki Blacktop’s coffee, expertly crafted Verve Matsuhisa an internationally fêted by some of the city’s best baristas, also has an outpost in name, he was using his surname will draw you to this neighbourhood Japan (as opposed to his nickname) for spot like a magnet. By the time this establishment. The chef started owner Tyler Wells opened the shop his eponymous US restaurant in in 2014 he had already made a the late 1980s after stints in South name for himself in the business; America and Alaska, and it’s his previous project, Handsome still a classic today. The exterior Coffee Roasters, had been famed is unassuming but the food is for its anti-sugar policy. “Blacktop phenomenal. The long menu is simpler,” says Wells. “It’s just of hot and cold dishes can be a little pavement café.” And this overwhelming so we recommend straightforward approach is what the omakase menu – a selection of makes the place ideal for a cup of Matsuhisa’s best signature creations. cold brew after a morning perusing 129 North La Cienega the local art spaces. Boulevard, 90211 826 East 3rd Street, 90013 11 310 659 9639 11 213 599 8496 nobumatsuhisa.com blacktop.la

République, La Brea Polished classics

Both Margarita and Walter Manzke have first-rate culinary backgrounds from time spent in top around the world. République serves classic (perhaps a little safe) fodder but what it does, it does well. There are dishes such as perfectly al dente pappardelle with pork ragout and rack of lamb from Northern Cali’s Marin Sun Farms. The temple-like building, constructed in 1928 by Charlie Chaplin and designed by architect Verve Coffee Roasters, Downtown Roy Sheldon Price has a grand Caffeine and juice tiled courtyard and gabled ceiling. 624 South La Brea Avenue, 90036 Verve coffee can be found across 11 310 362 6115 LA, although its headquarters and republiquela.com roasters are in Santa Cruz. Owners Ryan O’Donovan and Colby Barr learned the ropes at a series of Of course I Bread & other ventures before starting their drink coffee, — own business in 2007. The duo I’m nocturnal In a city where diners can be a is committed to sourcing quality little squeamish about gluten, beans from around the world, with the breads, brioches and a focus on Latin America and croissants on République’s Africa. Their industrial-looking breakfast menu are a rare shop in Downtown was designed indulgence. It’s all thanks by Studio mai and does double to the restaurant’s French duty as a coffee house and juicery influence – and to the artistry in conjunction with Juice Served of owner Margarita. Here (see page 36). 833 South Spring Street, 90014 11 213 455 5991 vervecoffee.com

038 039 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

Lunch ou Go Get Em Tiger, Midday pit stops d c nt Farmshop, Santa Monica l ry Larchmont Village O — California cuisine Roar appeal Brentwood Country Mart Set in the quaint Brentwood Kyle Glanville and Charles Babinski opened in the Country Mart, Farmshop is deliver the highest-quality cups 1940s part restaurant, part speciality without the pretention that can grocers. “I wanted to create often accompany serious brewing. a restaurant focused on local They trawl samples from hundreds producers and artisans,” says of roasters, selecting favourites chef and owner Jeff Cerciello, through blind tasting, and the result formerly of Thomas Keller’s is a diverse menu of the best roasts restaurant group. Under culinary available. Their first location – at director Brian Reimer (pictured, Grand Central Market, under the below), Farmshop serves California- name G&B – has a bar-service feel inspired food: think crispy but this Larchmont space provides artichokes with burrata and a small breakfast and menu pesto, and marinated Pacific and room for you to linger. sardines. It’s best in the day 230 North Larchmont while the market is buzzing. Boulevard, 90004 225 26th Street, Suite 25, 90402 11 323 380 5359 11 310 566 2400 gandb.coffee farmshopca.com

Flowerboy Project, Venice Mixed bunch

Flowerboy Project – opened by long-time Venice resident Sean Knibbs in summer 2015 – packs a lot in. Part flower shop, part boutique, part coffeehouse, it sells an eclectic mix of goods, including pale-hued ceramics, notebooks from Public Supply, perfumes from Fiele Fragrances and house-made nut butters. The Vittoria coffee is served alongside pastries from various suppliers and a selection of toasts (the tahini Bondi Harvest, Santa Monica offering, topped with sesame, Winsome, Echo Park Wizards of Oz ground hibiscus and thyme, is Sunshine on Sunset as good as it sounds). This Sydney import came to Los 824 Lincoln Boulevard, 90291 Set in a residential building in Echo Angeles in spring 2016 and the 11 310 452 3900 Park, Winsome is slightly off the laidback café turns out perfect Aussie flowerboyproject.com beaten path – but it’s well worth flat whites and healthy brekkies. going out of your way to find this Owners Mark Alston and Guy sunny restaurant. The interior is Turland keep the menu simple and sleek and pretty; its caramel-hued Picnic? I prefer to say clean, serving dishes such as quinoa booths are inviting and the lengthy I’m dining owl fresco and coconut-cream porridge or the bar has ample seating to view the Rad Bowl with chimichurri-dressed magic in the kitchen. There’s also cauliflower rice and fermented a large open patio on which to . Though it’s not that soak up the rays. As to chef Jeremy close to the shore, the whitewashed Strubel’s menu, it’s straightforward interior packs the vibe of a seaside and simple but all of the dishes are shack – and the atmosphere is packed with flavour. The excellent enough to make you feel like you’re burger alone makes Winsome a hanging out down under. choice spot. 1814 Berkeley Street, 90404 1115 Sunset Boulevard, 90012 11 310 586 7419 11 213 415 1818 bondiharvest.cafe eatwinsome.com

040 041 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

I’m just putting the Gjusta, Venice final touches to my Well bread screenplay then it’s off to my power lunch Part of the Gjelina empire and the place where the restaurant’s bread is expertly baked, Gjusta is the café arm of the hugely successful main locale on Venice’s Abbot Kinney (see page 37). Here it’s all about swift, ticketed service that is intended to get you up close and personal with cakes, scones, st orde a rs cookies and some particularly good L — Make sure sourdough bread (all teasing you you order by from behind the glass) as soon as the 14.00 possible. It’s also a decent spot for Power lunch cut-off breakfast and sandwiches. Perch on a bar stool inside, or there’s outdoor Mixing business with food is seating (if you can grab a spot). perfectly permissible in LA, 320 Sunset Avenue, 90291 but rarely outside of office 11 310 314 0320 hours: the healthy option of a gjusta.com brisk lunch is preferred over boozy dinners with clients (perhaps because so many Angelenos are anxious to get on the busy freeway to head home). With this in mind, here’s our top-three spots for a business lunch.

01 Otium, Downtown: An airy, laidback restaurant with an emphasis on rustic with sustainable ingredients. otiumla.com 02 Redbird, Downtown: Located inside a former cathedral rectory, this spacious restaurant Trois Familia, Silver Lake Sqirl, Silver Lake is a temple to modern French-Mexican fusion Jam packed . With private-dining options French chef Ludo Lefebvre has This postage stamp-sized café is for those business- made quite the buzz around LA charming, filled with attractive sensitive meetings. with Petit Trois (see page 32) people and serves easy-going fare. redbird.la and Trois Mec. Next up is Trois It’s perpetually popular too, which 03 The Polo Lounge, Familia, in a nondescript strip mall may mean a bit of a wait – but it’s Beverly Hills: A favoured on Sunset Boulevard (understated a small price to pay for the rhubarb Be prepared haunt of celebrities locations and frontage are something lemonade and the sorrel-pesto — since the 1930s, this of a Lefebvre signature). Open rice bowl. In fact the biggest mark Whether in the market for Beverly Hills Hotel for breakfast and lunch only, it’s a against Sqirl is that it’s only open a baklava croissant or lox on fixture is the epitome Mexican-French fusion – although until 16.00. The good news is that crispy rye toast from Gjusta, of old-world glamour. the menu skews towards Mexican. breakfast is served all day long to it’s a good idea to know your dorchestercollection.com Take some of the more decadent cater to the varied schedules of order before you make it creations, for instance: double- Angelenos. Sqirl’s signature jams to the till. This place decker potato tacos served with can also be found all over the city is constantly packed and lime, crème fraîche and jack (when it first opened in 2011, it was there’s no time for fuss. cheese. So wrong, so good. just a preserves company). 3510 Sunset Boulevard, 90026 4/720 Virgil Avenue, 90029 11 323 725 7800 11 323 284 8147 troisfamilia.com sqirlla.com

042 043 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

Grand Central Market Stall stories

Market stalls

Grand Central Market opened on in Downtown in 1917 but it’s undergone a facelift of sorts over the past few years. Today it’s home to a fascinating mix of old and new sellers; here is our pick of the stalls to visit. grandcentralmarket.com

01 Madcapra: An all- things-vegetable falafel shop? They might limit themselves to plant- based ingredients but Sara Kramer and Sarah Hymanson’s dishes jump with flavour and zest. “I feel like the market is the seat of a lot of change in LA so it’s exciting to watch that from the inside,” says Hymanson. Try the green falafel sandwich, which she describes as “not traditional at all”. Stall B-10 02 La Tostadería: This stall serves delicious seafood, including fish tacos and spicy ceviche. “This is a real Mexican place serving modern cuisine,” says founder Fernando Villagomez, who also owns another stand, Villa Moreliana, that focuses on traditional pork carnitas. Stall E-10 03 China Café: This is one of the oldest stands in the market: it dates from 1959. Try Chinese classics such as chow mein and chop suey. “People tell me they’ve been coming here since they were babies – and now they’re bringing their own families,” says owner Rinco Cheung. Stall C-14

044 045 Los Angeles Los Angeles 2 Food and drink— —Food and drink

Drinks Bottoms up Cole’s, Downtown Covell, Los Feliz Old school All about the alcohol

There’s a “hidden” bar out the This has quickly established back of Cole’s that isn’t that much itself as a destination bar. Why? of a secret any more: it feels a little Because the co-owners are pretty stilted and, dare we say it, passé. serious about the drinks, so much It’s more fun in our book to spend so that the food seems merely an time in Cole’s itself, an old-time bar afterthought. Covell was opened founded in 1908 and refurbished in in 2010 by Dustin Lancaster and 2008. It’s all wooden panelling and Matthew Kaner. The former had dark-red leather seating but this is no worked at Café Stella (see below) purveyor of lite beer, friends: it has and the latter had spent time at some of the best cocktails in town Silverlake Wine. Covell is the sweet served by knowledgeable staff. One symbiosis of their shared interests, such legend was Jimmy Barela, who offering eight rotating beers on but it’s in the adjoining bar that tended the bar for 63 years before tap and 150 wines by the glass, the real action takes place. Sip retiring in 1983. There’s a picture of all within a rustic-chic, warmly on tipples such as Son of a Priest him on the wall. Rightfully so. glowing enclave. (made with Willett rare-release 118 East 6th Street, 90014 4628 Hollywood Boulevard, 90027 rye, Campari and Averna) and 11 213 622 4090 11 323 660 4400 take a seat at the bar or on one colesfrenchdip.com barcovell.com of the comfy sofas around the flanks. This place tends to get packed most evenings but there’s Bar Marmont, West Hollywood Chez Jay, Santa Monica always respite to be found on Hollywood legend Dive inn the pretty outdoor patio if it gets a little overwhelming. The interior of one of LA’s best- There’s nothing like a good dive 3932 Sunset Boulevard, 90029 known cocktail lounges is dripping bar, especially if it’s in a rather 11 323 666 0265 with old Hollywood glam but over-polished area such as Santa cafestella.com manages to stay on the right side of Monica. Chez Jay is the sort of good taste. Tactile fittings – leather place where you know the no- couches, tasselled lampshades and nonsense barmaid’s name and plush wall-coverings – and dim you can spot the regulars, who lighting create a warm space with a stay away from fancy drinks. classic feel. Keeping with the theme, It’s also in a beer-buzzed time ing r in oo the best drinks on the menu are warp; it’s been going since 1959 and ra m T — the tried-and-trues, so tuck into a has seen Hollywood A-listers and the Cole’s is the sidecar and sink back into your seat. Rat Pack pass through. Movies have old HQ of the Turn up early and you may find been written and rehearsed here but The Tower Bar, West Hollywood Pacific Electric yourself with only one or two others ultimately it’s all about having a cold railway Classy classic at the bar; if you’ve come here to drink at the bar, quietly sheltered party, aim to arrive late and in style. from the winds of change outside. Situated in the art deco landmark 8171 West Sunset Boulevard, 90046 1657 Ocean Avenue, 90401 Sunset Tower Hotel (see page 16), this 11 323 650 0575 11 310 395 1741 bar’s walnut-panelled walls, fireplace chateaumarmont.com chezjays.com and live jazz make a visit feel like a step back in time. Veteran maître d’ Dimitri Dimitrov keeps the classic Café Stella, Silver Lake cocktail lounge running smoothly Starry nights and is a major reason why it has become an LA legend; the white- Okay, so it may be a little sceney jacket-clad staff servicing the 80-seat but Café Stella is nonetheless one room are of the highest quality too. of the best bars on LA’s eastern Classic mixes bode well here but side. Indeed, with its constantly The Dimitri (muddled Luxardo evolving roster of potent, seasonal cherry, gin, spirit Veev and lime) is a cocktails you would be hard- contemporary alternative. Pair it with pushed to put a foot wrong with an old-school prawn cocktail. your drinks selection. 8358 Sunset Boulevard, 90069 The café proper is always 11 323 848 6677 buzzing with people tucking sunsettowerhotel.com into its French-inspired menu

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