WikiVoyage March 2016 Contents

1 Kyrgyzstan 1 1.1 Regions ...... 1 1.2 Cities ...... 1 1.3 Other destinations ...... 1 1.4 Understand ...... 2 1.4.1 History ...... 2 1.4.2 Climate ...... 2 1.4.3 Landscape ...... 2 1.5 Get in ...... 2 1.5.1 By plane ...... 3 1.5.2 By train ...... 3 1.5.3 By car ...... 3 1.5.4 By bus ...... 4 1.6 Get around ...... 4 1.6.1 Flights ...... 4 1.6.2 By train ...... 4 1.6.3 Buses and Taxis ...... 4 1.6.4 Biking ...... 4 1.6.5 Wintersports ...... 4 1.6.6 Hitchhiking ...... 4 1.6.7 Horseback ...... 4 1.6.8 Driving ...... 4 1.7 Talk ...... 5 1.8 See ...... 5 1.9 Do ...... 5 1.10 Buy ...... 5 1.10.1 Costs ...... 5 1.10.2 Cash ...... 6 1.10.3 Credit Cards & ATMs ...... 6 1.11 Eat ...... 6 1.12 Drink ...... 7 1.12.1 Drinking tea ...... 7

i ii CONTENTS

1.12.2 Vodka ...... 7 1.12.3 Traditional drinks ...... 7 1.12.4 Other drinks ...... 8 1.13 Sleep ...... 8 1.14 Learn ...... 9 1.15 Work ...... 9 1.16 Stay safe ...... 9 1.16.1 Corruption ...... 9 1.17 Stay healthy ...... 9 1.18 Cope ...... 9 1.19 Respect ...... 10 1.20 Connect ...... 10

2 and the Northwest 11 2.1 Cities ...... 11 2.2 Other destinations ...... 11 2.3 Understand ...... 11 2.4 Get in ...... 11 2.5 Get around ...... 11 2.6 See ...... 11 2.7 Do ...... 11 2.8 Eat ...... 11 2.9 Drink ...... 11 2.10 Stay safe ...... 11 2.11 Go next ...... 11

3 Bishkek 12 3.1 Understand ...... 12 3.1.1 History ...... 12 3.1.2 Climate ...... 12 3.2 Get in ...... 12 3.2.1 By plane ...... 12 3.2.2 By train ...... 13 3.2.3 By car and bus ...... 13 3.2.4 By bicycle ...... 14 3.3 Get around ...... 14 3.3.1 By minibus ...... 14 3.3.2 By bus and trolleybus ...... 14 3.3.3 By taxi ...... 14 3.4 See ...... 15 3.5 Do ...... 15 3.6 Learn ...... 15 CONTENTS iii

3.7 Work ...... 16 3.8 Buy ...... 16 3.9 Eat ...... 16 3.9.1 Budget ...... 16 3.9.2 Mid-range ...... 16 3.9.3 Splurge ...... 17 3.10 Drink ...... 17 3.10.1 Cafes ...... 17 3.10.2 Bars ...... 17 3.11 Sleep ...... 18 3.11.1 Budget ...... 18 3.11.2 Mid-range ...... 19 3.11.3 Splurge ...... 19 3.12 Stay safe ...... 20 3.13 Cope ...... 20 3.13.1 Embassies ...... 20 3.14 Connect ...... 21 3.15 Go next ...... 21

4 Toktogul 23 4.1 Understand ...... 23 4.2 Get in ...... 23 4.3 Get around ...... 23 4.4 See ...... 23 4.5 Do ...... 23 4.6 Buy ...... 23 4.7 Eat ...... 23 4.8 Drink ...... 23 4.9 Sleep ...... 23 4.10 Connect ...... 23 4.11 Go next ...... 23

5 Ferghana Valley (Kyrgyzstan) 24 5.1 Regions ...... 24 5.2 Cities ...... 24 5.3 Other destinations ...... 24 5.4 Understand ...... 24 5.5 Talk ...... 24 5.6 Get in ...... 24 5.7 Get around ...... 24 5.8 See ...... 24 5.8.1 Itineraries ...... 24 iv CONTENTS

5.9 Do ...... 24 5.10 Eat ...... 24 5.11 Drink ...... 24 5.12 Stay safe ...... 24 5.13 Go next ...... 24

6 Batken 25 6.1 Get in ...... 25 6.2 Get around ...... 25 6.3 See ...... 25 6.4 Do ...... 25 6.5 Buy ...... 25 6.6 Eat ...... 25 6.7 Drink ...... 25 6.8 Sleep ...... 25 6.9 Connect ...... 25 6.10 Go next ...... 25

7 26 7.1 Understand ...... 26 7.2 Get in ...... 26 7.2.1 By plane ...... 26 7.2.2 By bus ...... 26 7.2.3 By car ...... 26 7.2.4 By bike ...... 27 7.3 Get around ...... 27 7.4 See ...... 27 7.5 Do ...... 27 7.6 Buy ...... 27 7.7 Eat ...... 27 7.8 Drink ...... 28 7.9 Sleep ...... 28 7.10 Connect ...... 28 7.11 Go next ...... 28

8 Issyk Kul and the 29 8.1 Regions ...... 29 8.2 Cities ...... 29 8.3 Other destinations ...... 29 8.4 Understand ...... 29 8.5 Talk ...... 29 8.6 Get in ...... 29 CONTENTS v

8.7 Get around ...... 29 8.8 See ...... 29 8.8.1 Itineraries ...... 29 8.9 Do ...... 29 8.10 Eat ...... 29 8.11 Drink ...... 29 8.12 Stay safe ...... 29 8.13 Go next ...... 29

9 30 9.1 Understand ...... 30 9.2 Get in ...... 30 9.3 Get around ...... 30 9.4 See ...... 30 9.5 Do ...... 30 9.6 Buy ...... 30 9.7 Eat ...... 30 9.8 Drink ...... 30 9.9 Sleep ...... 30 9.10 Connect ...... 30 9.11 Go next ...... 30

10 Kochkor 31 10.1 Understand ...... 31 10.2 Get in ...... 31 10.3 Get around ...... 31 10.4 See ...... 31 10.5 Do ...... 31 10.6 Buy ...... 31 10.7 Eat ...... 32 10.8 Drink ...... 32 10.9 Sleep ...... 32 10.10Connect ...... 32 10.11Go next ...... 32

11 Naryn 33 11.1 Get in ...... 33 11.2 Get around ...... 33 11.3 Get around ...... 33 11.4 See ...... 33 11.5 Do ...... 33 11.6 Buy ...... 33 vi CONTENTS

11.7 Eat ...... 34 11.8 Drink ...... 34 11.9 Sleep ...... 34 11.10Connect ...... 34 11.11Go next ...... 34

12 Song Kul 35 12.1 Understand ...... 35 12.2 Get in ...... 35 12.3 Get around ...... 35 12.4 See ...... 35 12.5 Do ...... 35 12.6 Buy ...... 35 12.7 Eat ...... 35 12.8 Drink ...... 35 12.9 Sleep ...... 35 12.10Connect ...... 35 12.11Go next ...... 35

13 Issyk Kul 36 13.1 Understand ...... 36 13.2 Cities ...... 36 13.3 Other destinations ...... 36 13.4 Talk ...... 36 13.5 Get in ...... 36 13.5.1 By bus ...... 36 13.5.2 By taxi ...... 37 13.5.3 By train ...... 37 13.6 Get around ...... 37 13.7 See ...... 37 13.7.1 Itineraries ...... 37 13.8 Do ...... 37 13.9 Eat ...... 37 13.10Drink ...... 37 13.11Stay safe ...... 37 13.12Go next ...... 37

14 Cholpon-Ata 38 14.1 Get in ...... 38 14.1.1 By plane ...... 38 14.2 See ...... 38 14.3 Do ...... 38 CONTENTS vii

14.4 Buy ...... 38 14.5 Eat ...... 38 14.6 Drink ...... 38 14.7 Sleep ...... 38 14.8 Go next ...... 38

15 Kadji Sai 39 15.1 Get in ...... 39 15.2 See ...... 39 15.3 Do ...... 39 15.4 Eat ...... 39 15.5 Sleep ...... 39 15.6 Go next ...... 39

16 40 16.1 Get in ...... 40 16.2 Get around ...... 40 16.3 See ...... 40 16.4 Do ...... 41 16.5 Buy ...... 41 16.6 Eat ...... 41 16.7 Drink ...... 42 16.8 Sleep ...... 42 16.9 Cope ...... 42 16.9.1 Visa extension ...... 42 16.10Go next ...... 43

17 44 17.1 Get in ...... 44 17.2 Get around ...... 44 17.3 See ...... 44 17.4 Do ...... 44 17.5 Buy ...... 44 17.6 Eat ...... 45 17.7 Drink ...... 45 17.8 Sleep ...... 45 17.9 Go next ...... 45

18 Tamga 46 18.1 Understand ...... 46 18.1.1 History ...... 46 18.2 Get in ...... 46 18.3 See ...... 46 viii CONTENTS

18.4 Eat ...... 46 18.5 Sleep ...... 46 18.6 Go next ...... 46 18.7 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses ...... 47 18.7.1 Text ...... 47 18.7.2 Images ...... 48 18.7.3 Content license ...... 48 Chapter 1

Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyzstan (Кыргызстан, formally the Kyrgyz Re- • Jalal-Abad — a good bet for visiting a Ferghana Val- public (Кыргыз Республикасы) is a Central Asian ley town, as it is significantly safer and easier to get country of incredible natural beauty and proud no- to than Osh or destinations further southwest. madic traditions. Landlocked and mountainous, it bor- • Karakol — a gem at the remote east end of Issyk ders to the north, to the west, Kul. to the southwest and to the southeast. Annexed by Russia in 1876, it achieved independence • Kochkor — just south of Balykchy, serves as a from the in 1991. It has the most liberal launch pad for treks up into the Tian Shan Moun- tourist visa policy in Central Asia and one of the more tains. progressive post-Soviet governments in the region. • Naryn — right up in the Tian Shan, near Lake Song Kul, the gateway to the entire southeastern region, its ruins, mountains, and high alpine lakes. 1.1 Regions • Osh — Kyrgyzstan’s second largest city, a fascinat- ing, 3,000 years old, wildly diverse, Ferghana Val- Due to the presence of several mountain ranges, Kyrgyzs- ley market town home to Central Asia’s biggest and tan can also be divided into northern and southern re- busiest outdoor market. gions. The northern (and cooler) region consists of Chui, • Issyk-Kul, Talas, and Naryn oblasts. While the south- Talas — a northwestern town just north of Besh- ern (and warmer) region contains Jalalabad, Osh. and Tash National Park Batken. The southern half of Kyrgyzstan is also part of • Tokmok — dwarfed by nearby Bishkek, but still the , a fertile agricultural region shared by large by Kyrgyzstani standards, Tokmok is right by Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, and Tajikistan. the ancient Burana Tower and the ruins of an ancient Silk Road capital, Ak-Beshim.

1.3 Other destinations

• Lake Issyk Kul — pearl of Central Asia, an enor- mous, crystal blue high alpine lake up in the Tian Shan Mountains. • Lake Song Kul — Issyk Kul’s little cousin, far more remote, and many would say more beautiful as well. • Lake Kul Ukuk • The caravanserai of Tash Rabat — a well-preserved 15th century stone caravanserai near Naryn. 1.2 Cities • Burana Tower — all that remains of the ancient Silk Road capital of Balasagun, a massive minaret stand- ing alone on the step. • Bishkek — the national capital and largest city by far. • Ala Archa National Park — gorgeous Tian Shan high alpine landscapes within easy striking distance • Balykchy — the western gateway to Lake Issyk Kul. of Bishkek.

1 2 CHAPTER 1. KYRGYZSTAN

1.4 Understand U.S. State Department expressed deep concern about the conduct of the elections, citing several issues including widespread vote count irregularities and exaggerations in 1.4.1 History voter turnout. Some of the current problems that Kyr- gyzstan faces today are universal throughout the Com- The ancient Scyths inhabited much of present day Kyr- monwealth of Independent States, namely lack of polit- gyzstan. With their disappearance the Kyrgyz people ical freedom, widespread corruption and negative influ- moved from Siberia. The Kyrgyz are descendants of ences on democracy. tribes from the Tuvan region of Russia, which migrated to the area now known as Kyrgyzstan in the 13th century, during the rise of the Mongol empire. In 1876 the area 1.4.2 Climate was incorporated into the Russian empire and later the Soviet Union. With the tsarist annexation came numer- ous Slavic immigrants that displaced many of the Kyrgyz and planted crops on their pasture lands. During World War I, many Kyrgyz refused to support the tsarist troops and many were massacred. Following the creation of the Soviet Union, Kyrgyzstan changed dramatically as industrialization took over and brought factories, mines, and universities. The Soviet in- fluence on Kyrgyzstan was strongly felt and many of the pre-Soviet traditions and cultures were lost and are only being recently rediscovered. In addition, ethnic minori- ties were deported to Kyrgyzstan, including Germans, Kurds, Chechens, Poles, and Jews. In addition, Ouighur and Dungan Chinese Muslims settled in Kyrgyzstan. This On the Issyk Kul’s shore near Kosh Köl mix of populations makes Kyrgyzstan one of the most ethnically diverse populations in Asia. The climate varies regionally. The south-western Fer- gana Valley is subtropical and extremely hot in summer, August 31st, 1991 marked a major event in the history of with temperatures reaching 40 °C (104 °F). The north- Kyrgyzstan. After unrest in various regions throughout ern foothills are temperate and the Tian Shan varies from the Soviet Union, a coup in against the regime dry continental to polar climate, depending on elevation. of Mikhail Gorbachev failed. This move against the cen- In the coldest areas temperatures are sub-zero for around tral government motivated the Kyrgyz power structure 40 days in winter, and even some desert areas experience to declare independence from the U.S.S.R. Kyrgyzstan constant snowfall in this period. The best time to visit also saw during that time the election of the only non- northern Kyrgyzstan is from June to September, though communist party backed president in the Central Asian the foothill cities like Bishkek are very hot (up to 35°). region, a physicist named Askar Akayev. Most beautiful for hiking in the low mountain areas is As for President Akayev, it became evident that non- between April and June, when the mountain slopes are party affiliation did not guarantee honesty. The executive flushed with blooming flowers. March to October is ideal branch’s power increased through suppression of opposi- for southern Kyrgyzstan. From October high mountains tion and the President secured immunity from prosecu- passes can be closed. tion for himself and his family. After several years of questionable elections, in March 2005, massive groups of protesters from around the country converged on the 1.4.3 Landscape capitol, causing Akayev to flee into exile in Russia. Entirely mountainous, dominated by the Tien Shan range; The leader of the Tulip Revolution, Kurmanbek Bakiyev, many tall peaks, glaciers, and high-altitude lakes. High- formed an interim government and served as president est point: Jengish Chokusu (Pik Pobedy) 7,439 m. The and prime minister until later that July when emergency mountains are beautiful for hiking. elections were held. Bakiyev ran for the office of Presi- dent and won, but was unable to gain parliamentary ap- proval of his cabinet until five months later. After sev- eral attempts to resolve a constitution, Bakiyev declared 1.5 Get in in 2007, that all previous versions of the constitution were illegal and instituted a modified constitution from the Citizens of Australia, Austria, Belgium, Bosnia and Akayev era. He then dissolved parliament and called for Herzegovina, Bulgaria, Canada, Croatia, Cyprus, an early election to reform the parliamentary structure. Czechia, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Ger- The President’s own party gained the majority and the many, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Israel, Italy, 1.5. GET IN 3

1.5.2 By train

Entering Kyrgyzstan from Kazakhstan at the Korday border crossing, north of Bishkek

The entire long-distance train schedule at Bishkek Station can fit Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Mace- in one screen. (The commuter train schedule is even shorter) donia, Malta, Monaco, Montenegro, Netherlands, New Trains to Bishkek depart from Moscow (Kazanskaia sta- Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Serbia, tion) a few times a week (3714km, trip takes more than Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, 3 days) going through Kazakhstan (Kazakh transit visa is Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey, United Kingdom and required for most of non-CIS nationals). Details can be USA do not require a letter of invitation. Citizens of found at poezda.net or rzd.ru (the second one available Japan do not need a visa to enter Kyrgyzstan. only in Russian and contains current ticket prices which Citizens of Australia, Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, were about 100EUR in 2008 for “plackartniy” class). On Canada, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, the train it is forbidden to carry portable stove fuel cans. France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Israel, Italy, Japan, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg, Malaysia, Monaco, Nether- lands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Roma- 1.5.3 By car nia, Singapore, Slovakia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United Kingdom and USA (Aug 2010) with Driving in Kyrgyzstan is by Western standards dangerous. valid Kazakh tourist visa can travel also to Talas, Chui However, the government has invested very heavily in re- (including Bishkek) and Issyk Kul Oblasts of Kyrgyzs- constructing a core network of roads that now rival the tan. However if you have a single-entry Kazakh visa and highways in many western nations. The principal highway you cross the border from Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan, you from Bishkek to Osh is an engineering marvel through the can't return to Kazakhstan on this visa. Most customs of- mountainous region. Further, the highway from Osh to ficers don't know about this agreement, which can cause the Chinese border at Irkeshtam and from the village of long obstructions at border crossings. A similar agree- Sary Tash to the Tajikistan border is being reconstructed ment applies reciprocally in Kazakhstan, but not for all in stages to international standards. Many other highways abovementioned nationalities. See Kazakhstan#Get_in. are likewise being rehabilitated as funding permits. In addition, the maintenance roads that feed into the core Vietnamese citizens are exempt from visas, regardless of network are being improved as funds become available. the purposes of their entry, including immigration. Likewise, maintenance is being privatized on an exper- imental basis. This is not to say that driving in the Re- public is easy. But given the limited economic resources 1.5.1 By plane progress is being made. In the cities and outlying areas locals have become used to The main hub for Kyrgyzstan is the Bishkek Airport, missing road drain covers, dry dusty roads (where water but also is increasingly well linked with tankers sometimes sprinkle water to keep dust down) and great flight offers. Both airports have regular services to generally bad roads that are not effectively maintained. the international hubs in Istanbul and Moscow. In ad- dition there are several flights a week to regional hubs If you get stopped by the police it’s likely to cost some in , Ürümqi and a weekly service to Dubai. money. For more information see the Bishkek#By plane or the From Kazakhstan, the road from to Bishkek is Osh#By plane section. Other destinations close to border the busiest. The border at Kegen may be more difficult include Almaty in Kazakhstan or Tashkent in Uzbekistan, to get across. Frequent and obvious smuggling happens both a 5 hour drive away. in this border and it’s quite obvious that the immigra- 4 CHAPTER 1. KYRGYZSTAN

tion and the border guards are in cahoots with the smug- 1.6.3 Buses and Taxis glers. Visa on arrival is not possible here and if coming from Kazakhstan, make sure you have at least a double- Minibuses (marshrutkas) and shared taxis are the most entry/multiple entry visa for Kazakhstan in case of trou- common and accessible option for traveling within Kyr- bles with Kyrgyz border officials. gyzstan. They're amazingly inexpensive and congregate at every village center or bus station. You can also ar- Watch out for mini buses pulling out too. range a private taxi by purchasing all the seats at the bus Journey times: station or contacting a taxi firm directly. The prices for mini-buses are set and straightforward, but • From Kazakhstan to Bishkek - from Almaty which it won't generally leave until it is full and you may find takes 5 hours and from Taraz which takes 5 hours. yourself holding a child in your lap. With shared taxis you will be quoted a price for one seat and if you have • From Uzbekistan to Bishkek, the road goes through significant luggage you should expect to pay for an ex- Kazakhstan and drive would take more than 10 tra or partial seat. You should negotiate prices, but as a hours, and to Osh in the south foreigner you will likely pay more than a local.

• From Tajikistan to Osh the road from Khudjant (Tadjikistan) and through Batken (Kyrgyzstan) fur- 1.6.4 Biking ther to Osh. The road is one of the most difficult to drive. The main road goes through the Uzbek en- Kyrgyzstan is popular with long distance bike treks, par- claves but there is also an alternative way around the ticularly around Issyk Kul and passes through the south- enclaves. If taking a taxi, remind the driver to go ern mountains to Tajikistan. around the small bit of Uzbekistan. There is also a road from Khorog to Osh. 1.6.5 Wintersports • From China there two passes - Irkeshtam leading to Osh and Torugart leading further to Naryn. Heliskiing in Kyrgyzstan is a secret Tipp for Freeriders all over the world. Eurosolutions is organized by Germans and provides different Packages of Freeriding. Heliskiing 1.5.4 By bus

Minibuses between Bishkek and Almaty operate from 1.6.6 Hitchhiking many of Bishkek bus stations, including Almatenskaya Station. There is also a bus between Osh and Kashgar. The concept of free rides is not really understood here. Particularly if you happen to be a foreigner. Most drivers will expect you to pay a small sum of money for gas. Ei- 1.6 Get around ther you can try to explain that you do not want to pay, the Russian phrase Bez deneg can be used. Alternatively you can just pay the sum. 1.6.1 Flights If the driver is asking for too much money you can always There are several daily flights between Bishkek and Osh. haggle! As a rule of thumb you should either pay the same There are also a few flights a week between Bishkek and price you'd pay for the bus or lower. Jalal-abad and Batken. The flights are operated on local airlines using 30-40 year old soviet planes. On the other 1.6.7 Horseback hand, the mechanics and pilots are well trained how to operate these old beasts. This is the real way to see Kyrgyzstan by the saddle of a horse. There are several tourist agencies that can make it happen for you, as the Kyrgyz are famous horsemen 1.6.2 By train dating back to the days of Genghis Khan. It is said that all Kyrgyz are born on a horse, although with growing The only domestic rail link is between Balykchy (West- urbanization that seems to be less common. ern edge of Issyk Kul) to Tokmok through to Bishkek through to Karabalta and on to the Kazakh border. The trains take at least twice as long as a taxi, but are half the 1.6.8 Driving price and you get to meet a lot of interesting folks, mostly pensioners, that need the 40-80 soms they would save by Tourists renting a private car and driving in Kyrgyzstan taking a mini-bus or taxi. is virtually unheard of and not recommended. The roads 1.9. DO 5

are in poor shape, police are highly corrupt, auto insur- • Issyk Kul in eastern Kyrgyzstan is surrounded by ance doesn't exist, and hiring a taxi is too easy and cheap mountains and is the world’s second largest alpine to make this an option. Long-term foreign residents fre- lake. quently drive, but many opt to use a driver. 1.9 Do 1.7 Talk

In the cavernous Dordoi Bazaar (mostly constructed out of empty A village mosque shipping containers)

The languages of Kyrgyzstan are Russian and Kyrgyz, a Turkic language related to Uzbek, Kazakh, and, of • Wander around Osh Bazaar - Traditional Eastern course, Turkish. Kyrgyz is more common in rural areas market in Bishkek selling everything from spices to whereas Russian is the urban language of choice, and it’s dishwashers. not uncommon to meet ethnic Kyrgyz people in Bishkek who cannot speak Kyrgyz. English, while becoming more • Buy cheap Chinese goods in Dordoi Bazaar - The popular, is still rarely spoken, so in order to effectively largest market in Central Asia, situated 20 minutes communicate one must at the very least learn a few ba- north of Bishkek. sic words (yes, no, please, thank you, etc.) in Russian or • Swim, sail and sunbathe in Issyk Kul - The world’s Kyrgyz, depending on the location. If you are lost com- second biggest high altitude mountain lake. pletely, try to ask young people, especially students. Like most of the rest of the former Soviet Union, Kyr- • Stay in a yurt near Tash Rabat - Ruins of a Cara- gyzstan uses the Cyrillic , which can present a vansarai in Naryn Oblast. problem for Western travellers. However, the charac- • Live like a nomad in Song Kul - High altitude moun- ters are not too hard to learn and once that is done you'll tain lake less visited than Issyk Kul and ideal for see- find that many of the words are familiar. For exam- ing traditional semi-nomadic Kyrgyz life in action. ple, "ресторан" transliterated into the is “restoran,” which means “restaurant.” But be careful as • Hike or climb in Altyn Arashan - a secluded valley Cyrillic is used for Kyrgyz as well as Russian. a 2 hour vehicle ride from Karakol.

• Expedition to the peak Lenine, 7134m - south of 1.8 See Osh city. • Horseback riding near the Toktogul - 3 days of ad- • The capital Bishkek offers bazaars and Soviets mon- venture on horseback. uments and architecture. • Al-Archa National Park with mountain peaks of over 4,000m is located just a half hour drive from 1.10 Buy Bishkek. • Kyrgyzstan’s only World Heritage Site is the 1.10.1 Costs Sulaiman-Too mountain in Osh. The city of Osh itself also boasts a bazaar, mosques and Soviet ar- Kyrgyzstan is probably the cheapest country in Central chitecture. Asia. A street snack is as little as half a US dollar. A full 6 CHAPTER 1. KYRGYZSTAN decent dinner is about USD5. Sleeping is cheap in budget home stay accommodations. Mid-range hotels are around USD30 to USD60 for a double room.

1.10.2 Cash

The flat naan, bread, a staple food in the region

KGS200 banknote issued in 2010. bazaars that are ubiquitous in every city, eat in Chinese restaurants or stay with bread and tea only. While peo- The official currency is the Kyrgyzstani som (written as ple from the West are programmed to think of large veg- 'сом' in the Kyrgyzs Cyrillic alphabet or sometimes ab- etables as desirable, small and flavourful is the rule here. breviated as 'с' ), divided into 100 tyin. The ISO interna- the same approach is valid for pistachios and almonds as tional symbolisation is KGS. Banknotes are available in well. Washing vegetables before consumption is recom- 10 tyin, 50 tyin, 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1000, mended. and 5000 som denominations. Coins are available in 10 tyin, 50 tyin, 1 som, 3 som, 5 som and 10 som denomi- nations. In October 2014 the rate for 100 Kyrgyzs som is USD1,84 or €1,46. Changing money is relatively straightforward. Banks will accept a variety of major currencies, while the money- changing booths that are ubiquitous in urban areas will typically only deal with US dollars, British pounds, eu- ros, Russian rubles, and Kazakh tenges. Note that neither banks nor money changers will accept any foreign cur- rency that is torn, marked, excessively crumpled, or de- faced in any way, so be sure to carefully check any notes you intend to bring into the country for defects.

1.10.3 Credit Cards & ATMs Laghman, salad, and green tea, a simple café meal

Like other countries in Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan is over- Besh barmak (literally: five fingers, because the dish is whelmingly a cash economy. Credit cards are rarely used. eaten with one’s hands) is the national soupy dish of Kyr- ATMs are common in Bishkek, and there are a scatter- gyzstan (Kazakhs would probably disagree). For prepara- ing of ATMs in other towns. Many accept Visa but only tion, a sheep or horse is slaughtered and boiled in a large Kazkommerts bank accepts MasterCard / Maestro / Cir- pot. The resulting broth is served as a first course. The rus, and their ATMs are few are far between. You can meat is then divided up between those at the table. Each withdraw US dollars or Kyrgyz som at many ATMs. person in attendance receives the piece of meat appropri- ate to their social status. The head and eyes are reserved for guests of honour. The remaining meat is mixed in 1.11 Eat with noodles and, sometimes with onions, and is tradi- tionally eaten from a large common dish with the hands, Kyrgyz food is the product of a long history of pastoral although nowadays more often with a fork or spoon. If nomadism and is overwhelmingly meat-based. And, if we you can land an invitation to a wedding, you'll most likely are saying overwhelmingly, it means really overwhelm- get a chance to eat besh barmak, although you can also ingly. Those with vegetarian fixations may wish to revise find it in traditional restaurants. Kyrgyz people like soupy their habits, purchase their own fresh fruit, vegetables, food in general, those foods that are served as a kind of and fresh bread from one of the many small stands or food pasta in Russia such as pelmene, they prefer as soup. 1.12. DRINK 7

Most other dishes encountered in Kyrgyzstan are com- more, cover your tea cup and say, 'Ichtym' (I've drunk). mon to the other countries of Central Asia as well. Plov Your host will offer a few more times (and sometimes will or osh is a pilaf dish that at a minimum includes juli- pout if you say no), this is to make sure that you are truly enne carrots, onion, beef or mutton, and plenty of oil, satisfied. Once everyone at table has finished drinking tea, sometimes raisins. Manti are steamed dumplings that it is time to say, 'Omen', and hold your hands out palms normally contain either mutton or beef, but occasionally up and then brush the open palms down your face. pumpkin. Samsa are meat (although sometimes veg- etable or cheese) pies that come in two varieties: flaky and tandoori. Flaky somsa are made with a phyllo dough 1.12.2 Vodka while tandoori somsa have a tougher crust, the bottom of which is meant to be cut off and discarded, not eaten. When entering a local store, you might goggle at the Lagman is a noodle dish associated with Uyghur cui- amount of vodka on display. Introduced by the Russians, sine, but you can find everywhere from Crimea to Ujgurs. vodka has brought much joy and sorrow to the Kyrgyz Most of the time it is served as soup, sometimes as over the years. Most vodka you will find for sale was pasta. The basic ingredients of lagman (plain noodles made in Kyrgyzstan and can provide travellers with one and spiced vegetables mixed with mutton or beef) can of the worst hangovers known, mainly if you are stupid be fried together, served one on top of the other, or and buy one of cheaper ones. But for approx. €2 you can served separately. Shashlik (shish kebabs) can be made have good Kyrgyz vodka, e.g. Ak-sai. Some professional of beef, mutton, or pork and are normally served with vodka drinkers say that this is because foreigners don't fresh onions, vinegar and bread know how to properly drink vodka. To drink vodka in Almost all Kyrgyz meals are accompanied by tea (either the right way, you need to have zakuskas (Russian for the green or black) and a circular loaf of bread known as a meal you eat with vodka). This can consist of anything lepeshka. The bread is traditionally torn apart for every- from simple loaves of bread to full spreads of delicious one by one person at the table. In the south of Kyrgyzs- appetizers. Quite common are sour or fresh cucumbers, tan, this duty is reserved for men, but in the north it is tomatoes, and of course meat. more frequently performed by women. Similarly, tea in First, find someone to drink with. Only alcoholics drink the north is usually poured by women, while in the south alone. Second, choose your vodka: The more you spend, it is usually poured by men. the less painful your hangover. Third, choose your za- At the end of a meal, Kyrgyz will in some cases perform kuska, something salty, dried, or fatty. This is so that a prayer. Sometimes some words are said, but more of- the vodka is either absorbed by the food or repelled by ten the prayer takes the form of a perfunctory swipe of the fat. Fourth, open your bottle... but be careful, once the hands over the face. Follow the lead of your host or you open it you must drink it all (a good vodka bottle hostess to avoid making any cultural missteps. doesn't have a cap that can be replaced). Now, pour your shots. Fifth, you will toast! You must toast! Toast your friends, toast their futures, toast their sheep, toast their cars. Sixth, drink! Drink it all! Now chase it with a 1.12 Drink zakuska and repeat until you can't see the bottle or it is empty. Drinking is one of the great Kyrgyz social traditions. No If you are drinking with locals it’s not problem to skip a matter if you are served tea, kymys, or vodka, if you have round. They would just pour you a symbolic drop and been invited to a Kyrgyz person’s table to drink, you have when they are clinking glasses you have to use your right been shown warm and friendly hospitality. Plan to sit hand and slap sparing partners’ glasses slightly instead of awhile and drink your fill as you and your host attempt your glass. to learn about each other.

1.12.1 Drinking tea 1.12.3 Traditional drinks

When offered tea, you might be asked how strong you The Kyrgyz for generations have made their own vari- want it. Traditionally, Kyrgyz tea is brewed strong in a ety of beverages. At first, these drinks might seem a bit small pot and mixed with boiling hot water to your desired strange, but after a few tries they become quite tasty. taste. If you want light tea, say 'jengil chai'. If you want Most are mildly alcoholic, but this is just a by-product your tea strong and red, 'kyzyl chai'. You might notice from their fermentation processes. that they don't fill the tea cup all the way. This is so that In the winter, Kyrgyz wives brew up bozo, a brew made they can be hospitable and serve you lots of tea. To ask for of millet. Best served at room temperature, this drink more tea, 'Daga chai, beringizchi' (Please give tea again). has a taste somewhere between yogurt and beer. On cold Your host will happily serve you tea until you burst. So winter days, when you are snowed in, five or six cups gives once you've truly had your fill and don't want to drink any you a warm fuzzy feeling. 8 CHAPTER 1. KYRGYZSTAN

1.12.4 Other drinks

Kyrgyz have their own cognac distiller, which produces excellent, albeit highly sweet cognac, with the preferred brand being “Kyrgyzstan Cognac”, which the locals sometimes call Nashe Cognac, meaning “our cognac”. You can also find an excellent selection of not so excel- lent local and imported beers as many Kyrgyz have been taking to drinking beer versus harder spirits. Locally produced beers include Arpa, Nashe Pivo, and Kara- balta. Arpa is highly recommended by beer connoisseurs. While being considered a common person’s beer, its style is somewhat similar to an American Pale Ale (less hoppy than its Indian counterpart). Due to the fact that Kyrgizes prefer more vodka than beer (actually, half litre of both costs the same...), beer is staying in tubes for longer time. Regular cleaning service is not common. Bottled beers are better, except their strange habit to pour all the beer into the glass at once. There are also a multitude of bottled waters (carbonated or still) from various regions of the country. Especially popular with southerners is the slightly saline “Jalalabad Water”.

A bottle and glass of kumys

1.13 Sleep

Many private citizens rent out their flats to foreigners and a fairly luxurious flat could be agreed for quite low price In the spring, it is time to make either jarma or maxim. a week. Noting that the average salary is $200-$300 in Jarma, a wheat based brew, has a yeasty beerlike quality 2014, now it could twice as big, you may think you are but with a gritty finish (it is made from whole grains after paying excessively. Look for cable TV, toilet and bath all). Maxim, a combination of corn and wheat, has a very and clean quarters. More adventurous visitors may wish sharp and zesty taste. It is best served ice cold and is a to stay in a “yurta,” for example in Bishkek it costs from great pick me up on hot days. 8 dollars a night in “yurtadorm”. It is not that special to Summer sees yurts lining the main street selling kumys stay in a yurt in Bishkek, but it can be more interesting (Кумыс), fermented mares milk. Ladled out of barrels to do so in more rural areas. These are boiled wool tents brought down from the mountains, this traditional drink used by nomads. Some tourist agencies in Bishkek will is one of more difficult to get used to. It has a very strong arrange this sort of stay, but be prepared to truly live the and pungent foretaste and a smoky finish. Kumys starts lifestyle of the nomad which includes culinary delicacies off as fresh horses milk (known as samal), the samal is which may seem foreign to the western palette. then mixed with a starter made from last year’s kumys For those wishing to have home stays arranged in ad- and heated in a pot. The mixture is brought to just before vanced there with the Community Based Tourism (CBT). boiling and then poured into a horse’s stomach to ferment They can organize home stays in most cities and villages for a period. A local grass called 'chi' is then roasted over in Kyrgyzstan. They can also arrange yurt stays and a fire and cut into small pieces. Once the milk is finished trekking. While many such organizations keep the ma- fermenting, the roasted chi and milk are mixed in a barrel jority of payment for themselves, CBT Kyrgyzstan claims and will keep for the summer if kept cool. that between 80 to 90% of payment will go to your host Tang is another drink thought to be useful for the health family. Amenities will vary between homes and locals, and good for hangovers. It is made from gassed spring but overall some great travel experiences can be had such water that is mixed with a salted creamy yogurt called as, being invited to an impromptu goat feast, or enjoying souzmu. fermented mares milk with nomads. 1.17. STAY HEALTHY 9

1.14 Learn In the past there have been occasional reports of foreign- ers being approached by persons impersonating police For those who are interested in learning Kyrgyz or and asking for documents in order to find an excuse to ex- Russian languages - there are universities you can go and tort money. These reports are uncommon, but one should there is a private school called the London School. The always be on guard. London School in Bishkek offers pretty cheap individ- You could also work for local language schools. The Lon- ual lessons for about $4/hour and home stay/cultural pro- don School in Bishkek is usually good for working as a grams. TEFL teacher or learning Russian and Kyrgyz languages.

1.15 Work 1.16.1 Corruption

Kyrgyzstan’s greatest export is its people departing for Corruption is a serious issue in Kyrgyzstan, and the lo- Russia, Kazakhstan, and even Europe for better oppor- cals are ultimately convinced that the police are not to be tunities. There are few opportunities for foreigners, ex- trusted. Many officers will stop and ask for a bribe. cept with development organizations, that generally hire off-shore. There are also few opportunities to teach Euro- pean languages, as many Kyrgyz that studied abroad have returned with near fluency and will charge much less than you. 1.17 Stay healthy If you wish to volunteer, there is a very active and diverse NGO community that would appreciate your assistance. If you come to Kyrgyzstan on a 30 day tourist visa, you will not be able to extend your visa. If you come to work or volunteer you should apply for a longer term visa. Also, Americans and Europeans on long term visas must regis- ter with OVIR. Information on this process is available on the websites of the US Embassy. It is an easy, inexpen- sive, straightforward process not fraught with corruption or delays in most cases.

1.16 Stay safe

Kyrgyzstan is constantly engulfed in strifes and political turmoil, and several countries advise foreigners to not A village drug store in Tamchy travel to Kyrgyzstan at this time. While the US travel advisory tells foreigners that some Your biggest risk in Kyrgyzstan are car wrecks and acci- attacks on Westerners have occurred, the view of Kyrgyz dents while crossing the street or falling into a hole in the people on this is varied. Fights and assaults generally fo- sidewalk. You should also exercise caution around stray cus around nightclubs and bars, just as in any other large animals and avoid approaching dogs. city. There is to date no indication that Bishkek is partic- Food and drinking water safety vary substantially by re- ularly dangerous to foreigners. As for other cities in the gion. Kyrgyz claim the national drink, Kumys, is ex- Kyrgyz Republic, there is little evidence. Tourists will of tremely healthy and will cure you of innumerable ail- course be drawn by Kyrgyzstan’s amazing natural beauty ments. although travel by car through mountain passes and vil- lages is not advisable. Although bride-kidnapping is illegal in Kyrgyzstan, it is still common, particularly in rural areas, so women should 1.18 Cope be very careful - it would therefore be preferable that women travel with male family members or other men who they can trust to keep them safe. According to A popular local source of information for tourists is the the United States Embassy, two American women were regularly published ex-pat run Spektator magazine which bride-knapped in rural Kyrgyzstan in 2007, and you cer- features tourism and culture articles focusing on Kyrgyzs- tainly don't want to be one of them. tan and the wider Central Asian region. 10 CHAPTER 1. KYRGYZSTAN

1.19 Respect

Western norms of respect are standard. Though nom- inally a Muslim country the Kyrgyz people are highly westernized. No special dress codes are in effect. Al- though standards of dress in Bishkek are Western and of- ten revealing, in the south of the country women would be advised to dress more conservatively or risk attract- ing unwanted male attention. Evenings can be charged as alcohol intoxication can be quite prevalent at this time. Proceed with caution.

1.20 Connect Chapter 2

Bishkek and the Northwest

Bishkek and the Northwest occupy the northern and 2.10 Stay safe northwest parts of Kyrgyzstan, north of the Ferghana Val- ley and south of Kazakhstan. 2.11 Go next

2.1 Cities

• Bishkek • Kara Balta • Talas • Tashkomur • Tokmok • Toktogul

2.2 Other destinations

• Ala Archa National Park • Burana Tower • Toktogul Reservoir, near the town of Toktogul

2.3 Understand

2.4 Get in

2.5 Get around

2.6 See

2.7 Do

2.8 Eat

2.9 Drink

11 Chapter 3

Bishkek

on the Silk Road through the Tian Shah mountains. In 1862 it was captured and trashed by Russians, before they set up their own garrison. Russian peasants were soon lured here by land grants and the fertile soil of the Chuy Valley. The renamed town of Frunze became capital of the new Kyrgyz ASSR in 1926, but it was renamed Bishkek (the Kyrgyz form of its old Kazakh name, Pishpek) in 1991.

3.1.2 Climate

3.2 Get in The central square of Bishkek, Ala-Too square 3.2.1 By plane Bishkek (Бишкек) (population in 2009 approx. 835,000) is the capital and the largest city of the Kyrgyz The Bishkek’s Manas International Airport ((IATA: Republic (Kyrgyzstan). FRU)). is a 30 minute drive from the city centre. The air- port is not modern, but efficient and features a VIP Hall that facilitates entry and exit if you need more comfort- 3.1 Understand able services. Air traffic control is provided by the United States Air Force as part of its agreement with the Manas Air Transit Center that support operations in Afghanistan. Bishkek is the capital of the Kyrgyz Republic and sits in Most of the international flights depart and arrive at very the Tien Shan mountain range in the Chui Valley. It is a early hours of the morning. relatively new city and has limited historical sites, but it makes a great place to start your trips to the mountains The following airlines with world hubs operate to/from and alpine lakes of the Tien Shans. Bishkek is, however, Bishkek: an interesting example of a czarist planned city; laid on a grid with wide boulevards flanked by irrigation canals • Aeroflot - Moscow-Sheremetyevo (5 hour flight, and large trees, buildings with marble façades, and So- Airbus 320) viet apartment complexes. Many young travelers find • Bishkek’s nightlife a delight and the people are friendly Turkish Airlines - Istanbul-Atatürk, Ulaanbaatar and very hospitable. Bishkek is a city of many young peo- • Pegasus - Istanbul, Osh (from €20) ple that hang out in Clubs and small cafes. Kyrgyzstan has the most liberal tourist visa regime in Central Asia, and for closer destinations: so Bishkek makes a great place to start a tour of the silk road and collect your visas to neighbouring countries. • Air Astana - Almaty

3.1.1 History • Avia Traffic Company - Almaty, , Isfana, Jalal-Abad, Novosibirsk, Osh, Tashkent

Bishkek was founded when the Uzbek khan of Kokand • China Southern Airlines - Ürümqi built a small clay fort by a settlement on a tributary of the Chuy River in 1825, to connect up several stop-off points • Iran Air Tours - Mashhad

12 3.2. GET IN 13

• Iran Aseman Airlines - Mashhad, Tehran-Imam the Osh Bazaar in Bishkek until 20:00-21:00. You Khomeini better start in the morning, not to miss the great view along the road. Try to reserve the front seat, • - Moscow-Domodedovo, Ürümqi even by paying a hundred soms more, because the driver will squeeze 3 passengers in the back seat. • - Batken, Delhi, Dubai, In 2012 the price was 1000-1500 soms per person. Dushanbe, Islamabad, Jalal-Abad, Kazarman, A more comfortable overnight option is the cargo- Kerben, Krasnoyarsk, Moscow-Domodedovo, passenger minivan ('busik', ‘бусик’) from Kara-Su Novosibirsk, Osh, Tashkent, Urumqi, market, which is located 30 km from the center of Yekaterinburg Osh. Shared vans or taxis between Kara-Su and Osh • Rossiya - St Petersburg are frequent and cost 30-40 soms. In Bishkek, the minivans arrive at the Dordoi Bazaar. The price is • - Novosibirsk only 500-700 soms, they have comfortable sleeping bunks, but windows are small and you will pass most • Tajik Air - Dushanbe beautiful scenery in the night. Minivans depart daily • Uzbekistan Airways - Tashkent between 15:00 and 18:00. You don't have to book seats in advance: just come there and choose the car and the driver you like. In reverse direction it’s sim- There are a few ATM in the basement of the airport, and ilar. Take a shared taxi to Bishkek from taxi stand several small cafes and convenience shops that are open near the Bazaar in Osh. They leave as they fill up. around the clock. Keep your baggage tag receipt with Or go to Kara-Su market to catch a cargo-passenger you as your receipt may be checked by airport security to minivan to Bishkek. It is also possible to buy a seat make sure you have picked up the correct baggage. from a truck for about 500. The truck leave the A taxi to and from the city centre can be arranged for bazaar in Osh daily at 15:00. approximately 450 soms, but prepare to negotiate from a much higher price. Most international flights arrive in the very early morning hours, so the taxi drivers will demand • To/From Almaty. Bishkek is approximately a 3½ a higher price based upon the late or early hours. If you hour drive from Almaty, Kazakhstan along a rela- share a taxi the price should be 100 soms per person. tively good highway. A minibus from Almaty Sairan The marshrutka 380. connects every 10-20 min the city bus station costs about KZT 1300 and will take at centre for 40 som. The minibus parks right in front of the least 4 hours, depending on how long the border airport and stops at Chuy prospektesi. crossing takes. There is a rest stop at a petrol station about an hour from the border. At Kazakh-Kyrgyz frontier you have to step out with all your luggage 3.2.2 By train and make customs control by yourself. If your con- trol last too long, the bus can leave without you. Ig- There is a twice-weekly train service to and from nore the money-hungry taxi drivers waiting for you, Moscow, called the “Kirgizia” with two days operated at the left of the road is a parking place where a local by the , and the other two by the Rus- minibuses depart to Bishkek for 20 som. The immi- sian railways. The train has 2 and 4-berth sleepers and a gration control going to Kyrgyzstan involves, first, a restaurant car. All trains go through Uzbekistan. chaotic crush of people trying to get through up to In addition, there is a service that goes to and from 8 booths manned by Kazakh immigration officers Balykchy on the western edge of the Issyk Kul lake. Al- (forget any queuing manners you may have), fol- though slow (6–8 hours) and with minimal accommoda- lowed by a walk over the border river bridge, and a tion, it is one of the most scenic rail trips in Eurasia, smaller, less busy Kyrgyz immigration building. For sneaking through a thin mountainous alpine pass to the non-Kazakh/Kyrgyz nationals, you'll need to walk lake. into the Kyrgyz immigration building and knock on the mirrored window door on the left as you enter to get the attention of the officer to come and take 3.2.3 By car and bus your passports for processing. He will disappear for 5 minutes and re-emerge with your stamped pass- • To/From Osh. There are no normal buses between ports, you then go on through to meet your minibus. Bishkek and Osh. The Bishkek-Osh highway is a You can also share or rent an entire taxi from Al- narrow mountainous road in a good condition, and maty. Both KLM and Lufthansa offer bus service big buses or public passenger minivans are not al- from the Almaty airport to Bishkek and back again lowed to cross the Tor-Ashu and Ala-Bel Passes. so travelers can meet their early morning flights. The The most popular option is a shared taxi departing normal price for a seat in a shared taxi is approxi- from the taxi stand near the Bazaar in Osh, or from mately 500 som. 14 CHAPTER 3. BISHKEK

• To/From Taraz. There are also additional long dis- 3.3 Get around tance road connections to Taraz, Kazakhstan leading to Shymkent & Tashkent, Uzbekistan. 3.3.1 By minibus

Kyrgyzstan’s capital, like many places in the former • To/From Kashgar. Truly adventuresome travel- Soviet Union, has an extensive network of minibuses, ers may want to attempt to get to Bishkek via the known as Marshrutkas. There are hundreds of mini- Chinese/Kyrgyz frontier crossing over the Torugart buses (marshrutkas) that ply all parts of the city. They Pass. The pass connects Kashgar via an impor- generally cost 10 som (12 at night). Ask a local which tant route that runs along what was once the ancient mini-bus number you should take or buy a map of mini- Silk Road, linking Western China with the heart of bus routes at tourist venues. Major stops are near the Central Asia. The pass tops off at a height of 3,752 Tsum department store and Philharmonia. They typically metres and is known as one of the most frustrating have around 14 seats, with standing room for around ten passes in Central Asia, as both sides can be closed extra people during busy periods. Marshrutkas are eas- for holidays, early snowfall, or for other. unknown ily identifiable and display their number and basic route reasons. Only attempt this route if you have time information (in Russian) on the front. There is a great and your patience can handle it. You will need a English website for checking connections. To flag one special permit to cross the border at Torugart. For down, simply hold out your right hand, parallel to the easier crossing from China, go first to Osh through ground. Once you get on, pay the fare to the driver. When the Irkeshtam Pass. you want to get off say, “ah-stah-nah-VEE-tyeh” (Stop!). Although there are bus stops, and according to the law marshrutkas should be hailed at bus stop only, but it is not followed too much. So, in practice you can ask driver 3.2.4 By bicycle to stop anywhere and he will drop you off at any point on their route. Taking bikes on public transport. Unfortunately the public consists mostly of minibuses. However, it’s usually possible to fit two bi- 3.3.2 By bus and trolleybus cycles inside the luggage compartment in the back of the bus if you remove front wheel, pedals and turn the han- Bishkek also has a bus and trolleybus system which is less dlebar. You may have to pay an extra fee of 100 som per extensive and generally slower. They only stop at desig- each bicycle while transporting them by buses between nated bus stops and operate only till 22:00. The fare is 8 Karakol and Bishkek, and travellers paying 500 som for som in buses and in trolleybuses. Passengers enter at the each are not unheard of. The nightbuses are usually big back door and leave at the front; they pay on exit. buses with enough space for bicycles. The tunnel at the Tör-ashuu pass on the highway between Bishkek and Osh isn't at 2500m as it is mentioned on most 3.3.3 By taxi maps. The tunnel is at 3100m. There are a few bikeshops in town: There are several private taxi firms in Bishkek that you can easily reach through their three digit numbers in- cluding: 150, 152, 154, 156, 166, and 188. Daytime • Velo Leader, O.Yuganov, Moskovska 226 (junc- taxis throughout the city are a flat rate of 100 soms and tion Moskovska/Kalyka Akiiva; geo coordinates: 42 120 soms past 10PM. There are also numerous “gypsy 52.234/74 34.607). 10AM-6PM. Perhaps the best cabs” situated at nearly every intersection. While most bike shop in town. The directions of Lonely Planet travellers and long-time expats report no problems, you are wrong. are cautioned to be aware, especially at night and near nightclubs. Generally tourists use the local taxi services which can be reached through several numbers: 150 Euro • Elite Sport/Drive Bikeshop, Tokrogula 170 (geo (Evro) Taxi, 152 Super Taxi , 156 Express Taxi and 188 coordinates: 42 52.352/74 35.399). A giant bike Salam Taxi. Before 10PM most runs in the city are 100 shop. soms and after 1000 are 120 soms. Many taxis do not use flat rate (aug 2011); you pay by the meter or negotiate a price in advance. Short distance • Free Bike, Kulatova 18 (near Redfox-Outdoorshop). inside city can be 60-80 som. A taxi for a day can be This is mentioned in some guidebooks but it may negotiated. An hour drive to mountain or to a lunch and have been closed down in the meantime. then back again later can be 800-1000 som. 3.5. DO 15

3.4 See • Osh Bazaar. If you're looking for a fresh sheep’s head, locally made Korean picked salad, shashlik or Bishkek is a pleasant city to wander with numerous leafy any other type of Kyrgyz snack, this is the city’s best parks, tall trees, peppered by Soviet era statues and mon- known food bazaar. Although it’s certainly not Cen- uments. However there isn't a great deal to see beyond tral Asia’s most colourful bazaar, there are hundreds this, and the city can comfortably be 'done' in a day (or of products to choose from, especially in the spring two if visiting the suburban markets). Most museums are and summer months when produce is fresh from closed on Mondays. farms in the outskirts of town. There is a separate clothes market south of the main produce bazaar. To get there you can take trolleybus 14 on Chuy, bus 20 or 24 on Kiev or 42 from Soviet. Like any crowded space, be wary of pick-pockets; however visiting the Osh Bazaar is a most and rewarding trip. There are also smaller markets including Alamedin Bazaar and Ortosay Bazaar, which are open daily but are at their largest and most interesting at week- ends. Dordoy Bazaar is Central Asia largest market of imports, mostly from China.

• M Frunze Museum, 364 Ul. Frunze (NE of Par- liament (Look for cottage enclosed in government building)). This museum houses the home of Gen- eral Mikhail Frunze, the World War II and civil The Independence Monument on Ala-Too square, with the Na- war general born in Bishkek (of Moldovan parents) tional Historical Museum in the background. whose name Bishkek bore until the city was re- named after independence. There are many photos • Ala-Too Square. The main city square is a vast and displays of early Bishkek days from an era when expanse of concrete that ceased to be called Lenin it was mostly a Slavic city and few vehicles existed. square in 1991, and is the site of frequent politi- cal demonstrations and regular festivals. A statue of Lenin was the focal point until 2003, before he was 3.5 Do banished to a much less conspicuous location be- hind the museum and replaced by a statue of Erkidik • (freedom). At night many vendors set up photo- Zhirgal Banya. You can buy tickets (300 som) graph and karaoke booths, and there’s a synchro- for the Zhirgal Banya (baths) from the ticket office nised sound and light show in time with the foun- around the side. There’s a sauna, ice-cold pool, and tains, however travellers should avoid visiting the for an extra 200 som an attendant will lather you up, square after dark. There is also a military monu- scrub you and then hose you down. For those into a ment with an hourly changing of guards. little bit of self-flogging, birch branches are available free. • National Historical Museum. This museum sits between Ala-Too Square and the Parliament build- • Karven Club. If you want to swim, the Karven ing. On the south side is an enormous statue of Club has an outdoor pool which is perfect for a blis- Lenin that was moved from the north side of the tering summer’s day, and there’s a also a modern building after the Soviet Era. The bottom story of gym and fitness centre. For one hour it’s 400 som this three floor museum displays seasonal exhibits, but it’s much better value to pay 500 for a whole day while the second highlights Soviet-era achievements of use and hang around for as long as you like. during the Communist Era. The top floor showcases the history and culture of the Kyrgyz people. Entry costs 300 som. Closed Mondays. 3.6 Learn • Panfilov Park. While this park may be in need up- keep and renovation, it’s a great look into the past Bishkek is a cheap place to learn Russian (or Kyrgyz). A when Kyrgyzstan was a part of the Soviet Union. private 1 1/2 hour lesson with a native Russian speaker Beware that few of the rides have any safety mecha- should cost between $5–7. Courses are also available at nisms, and the safety mechanisms they may appear the American University of Central Asia and the Kyrgyz- to have are probably not functional. The ferris wheel Russian-Slavic University. There is also a private school offers a great view of the greater city. that caters to individual learning: The London School in 16 CHAPTER 3. BISHKEK

Bishkek. This school offers Russian and Kyrgyz to any- in Bishkek because of the large number of ethnic Rus- one at anytime of the year for as little as 120 soms/hr. sians who still live in the city. There are an also growing During the warmer months they are often full so book in number of restaurants and cafes catering to more varied advance. tastes from Turkish to Korean. Also Uyghur food is pop- ular and fit the taste of many westerners as well as locals. E.g. the chain Arzu have a few restaurants. 3.7 Work 3.9.1 Budget A number of international organizations have offices in Bishkek, however most employees are recruited from There are hundreds of stands that sell gamburgers, a local abroad. If you speak Russian, there might be occasional adaptation of hamburgers but really share little in com- opportunities to find temporary or long-term work. There mon: they are sliced döner kebab-style meat served on a are also a number of schools that will bun with cole-slaw, cucumber, mayonnaise, ketchup and employ native English speakers. Due to the current un- some chips. They usually cost around 60 som. One of the stable political situation, there is not a large amount of most popular gamburger stands in Bishkek is at the corner foreign business investment, but there is the Kumtor Gold of Sovietskaya and Kievskaya, across the street from the mine and many foreign exploration companies attempting main post office. It’s a popular area for local students to to develop the natural resources of the country. pick up a cheap meal, and they even serve the rare chicken hamburger. 3.8 Buy Throughout the city are a lot of street-side vendors sell- ing samsis, which is a staple of most locals’ lunch. The green kiosks opposite the Philharmonic Hall ticket of- If you want to fit in with the locals, be sure to get one fice sell some of the freshest, cheapest and best prepared of the stylish Kyrgyz felt hats (kalpaks) worn mainly by in Bishkek and they are popular with students from the men. You can also get textiles such as traditional pat- nearby universities. You can usually find a row of shash- terned carpets (shyrdaks), which are well-made but can lyk grills inside any bazaar or just outside any chaykhana be expensive. For cheap souvenirs, avoid the Tsum de- (teahouse). partment store and head directly for the Osh Bazaar. You may have to dig around the stalls as there isn't as much For some pre-independence nostalgia, try the cafeterias variety or quality as in Tsum, but the prices can be far of government ministries and universities. For about one cheaper if you put your bargaining skills to the test. US dollar you can experience what it was like to eat Soviet-style cafeteria food. • Dor Doi Bazaar (Dordoy)(10 mins outside the city towards north east.). Open air market with hundreds • Fakir (Behind Bishkek City shopping mall). Pro- of double stack shipping containers. It’s divided into vides authentic and safe traditional Kyrgyz food and multiple sections based on the types and origins of is very popular with locals. Good sized portions and goods. excellent prices. Open for lunch and dinner. Beer and non-smoking areas available. 80-160 som. • Geoid, Kiev 107 (entrance on the left side). Geoid sells maps for trekking 1:200,000 and overview • maps 1:1,000,000. 150-300som. Faiza, Jibek Jolu. Excellent local food frequented by locals. Great samsas and laghman (noodles). Dirt • Zum Department Store. Mobile phones, cloth- cheap. 80-160 som. ing, wine, souvenirs, tobacco, make-up, electronics. This shopping mall is located in the centre of town • Watari. found on Frunze 557, serves delicious off of Chui street. Complete with Mastercard and udon noodles, curries and soups and the numbers Visa ATMs, Zum also displays a great selection of of Japanese expats that frequent this restaurant is a food stands, just outside. Like anywhere in Bishkek, testimony to the quality of its food. don't be afraid to haggle

3.9.2 Mid-range 3.9 Eat • Dragon’s Den, 5557 Frunze St, e-mail: Bishkek is probably the best choise for food in Kyrgyzs- [email protected]. Across from tan. From typical Kyrgyz food like Besh barmak or cen- Grand Hotel - Great food at great prices and a great tral Asia classics as Plov, Shashlyk or Samsas can be found expat hang-out, menu offers both great European around the city. Also Russian dishes are fairly ubiquitous and local favourites as well. 3.10. DRINK 17

• Old Edgar (Stari Edgar)(behind the Russian in the summer. Live music year-round, baby-sitting Drama Theatre). This is one of the most popu- for the kids, and popular with foreign dignitaries. lar places with expas. In the summer, there is am- While it’s not to be confused with the Four Seasons ple outdoor seating and in the winter, the bomb- Restaurant in New York City, it’s a great dining ex- shelter style building decorated in a nautical motif perience nonetheless. is Bishkek’s most original dining venue. The food tends to be average, but the house band has enter- tained generations of visitors. 3.10 Drink • Aria. One block south of Vefa Center, this Iranian- owned restaurant serves good Iranian and Turkish 3.10.1 Cafes dishes while also offering Russian fare. The multi- flavored kalyan-hookahs attract a varied, hipster-like There are a few coffee shops in Bishkek that even feature crowd. wi-fi.

• Cyclone Italian Restaurants, 136 Chui. Less ex- • Kafe Coffee. Two locations- 9 Manas Ave/South pensive than the more upscale Adriatico, it features of Moskovskaya & 40/1 Togolok Moldo, which is an extensive menu. It specializes in dishes featuring south of the City Sports Hall towards Chui. Both fresh veal, which is not in short supply in the moun- locations serve a variety of non-alcoholic, heavily tains of Kyrgyzstan. ~250-350 som. caffeinated drinks and feature free Wi-fi. The To- golok Moldo site also has outdoor seating. As of • Dolce Vita Pizza (on Akhunbaeva, to the east of May 2010, The Kafe Coffee located on Manas uses Manas, about one block). Possibly the best pizza the SAIMA CARD - a pay system of Wi-fi. available in Bishkek. Its thin crust is baked in an open-fire oven; there is also a whole range of Italian • Sierra Coffee, Manas 57/1, VEFA Center - 3rd dishes and pastas. ~250-380 som. floor, Russian Business Center (Razakova St) and Tash Rabat Shopping Center (Gorky St). Opened its • Buddha Bar (corner of Akhunbaeva and Soviet- first cafe/restaurant in the Spring of 2012 on Manas skaya). Possibly the most popular restaurant in St, next to the Russian Embassy, between Kiev and Bishkek. Regular entertainment and a menu featur- Toktogul. Excellent coffee and coffee specialist ing other dishes than pizza and sushi; shashlyk is also drinks. Breakfasts, sandwiches, wraps, soups, sal- good here. The menu is in English. ~210-300 som. ads.. Free WiFi. Counter service by English speak- ing staff. A place to network and to meet other En- • Metro Pub, Chui and Turizbekova. This is where glish speakers. Sierra also roasts their own coffee, international aid workers, embassy staff, mining offering fresh roasted coffee for sale in a variety of personnel and Manas Airport contractors come for origins and roasts. a pint and a decent meal. Especially crowded on St. • Patrick’s Day and Halloween. ~210-300 som. Adriano, Isanov 87. 24hours open. 110₩.

• Shao Lin, Jibek Jolu and Isanova. One of the best 3.10.2 Bars known Chinese restaurants in Bishkek. The quality is up to most western standards, but tends to still be For young and single people, Bishkek’s nightlife is im- a little oily. The soups are especially large - better pressive. Foreigners are welcomed at most venues with to be shared. ~210-300 som. open arms, and many times they do not need to pay a • Steinbrau Pub, A. Herzen St (hidden away in a cover charge. See the “Stay Safe” section for more on residential area near the train line, about 300m east how be aware while you're having fun in Bishkek. of Sultan Ibaimov St. Taxi drivers usually know it). A German beer hall with patchy, but sometimes ex- • 12 Bar (Razakova Str. 32). Set atop one of higher cellent, German food and genuine beer. (updated buildings this makes a great place for a rooftop Jul 2015) drink. A plush place where Bishkek’s young and wealthy go to see and be seen - hence good idea to 3.9.3 Splurge dress up at least a little. Drinks around $2-4 a pop.

• Four Seasons Restaurant - (across from the Hy- • Fire and Ice (Chui and Erkindik). This popular, att) Delicious food with a large selection of Euro- Pakistani-owned disco near the Bishkek city center pean and Asian cuisine. Outside dining is available is located right above a bowling alley. 18 CHAPTER 3. BISHKEK

• Retro Metro. You'll find the DJ spinning from in- has single and double rooms (10),WC + hot shower side the front section of a tube train engine (hence in each room. Guest kitchen, big hall, free Wi-Fi, the name). The 80s kitsch is a popular spot for really free laundry. Pick up from International Airport late night partying. Manas available. Parking inside. 500/1000som.

• • Promzona. A trendy Russian rock establishment Nomad’s Home, Drevesnaya 10 (right be- with a mostly Russian clientèle. Jazz musicians play hind the eastern bus station, coordinates: 42 on Tuesdays with rock and blues acts on the week- 53.300/74 37.755), ☎ +996 312 299955, e-mail: ends. Check out their extensive drink menu. 600 [email protected]. Two Kyrgyz women, soms entry fee. Raisa and Gulnara, run this friendly homestay. Dormitories, double rooms, and tent camping are available (with one of the double rooms inside a • Sweet 60s (Molodaya Gvardia and Kievskaya; near yurt!) Breakfast served sometimes. Pick-up from cinema Oktyabr). Live music everyday, with jazz and drop-off to Manas International is available as evenings on Wednesday and Sunday. well as visa assistance. Can be very crowded, with only one bathroom for all the guests. Has a yard • Golden Bull (On Chuy, next to the White House. En- which you can park your bicycle/motorcycle. Per ter from the back yard of another building.). Beers person: tent 150, dorm 300, double 400som, Yurt cost 200 som. The new staff is not that friendly as it for 3 people: 500som. used to. Do not go alone in any condition. 300 som for entrance. • Sabyrbek’s Guest House, 21 Razzakova (just south of Moskovskaya) (Opposite German embassy. • GQ Exclusive night club, пр. Чуй (Located by The buzzer is broken, but banging loudly on the Sonaba not far from the Sports complex and movie large metal door should attract their attention (or theater), ☎ +996 551 44 44 11. Upscale night club call).), ☎ +996 312 300710, +996 312 300710, with dancing girls on the stages. Opaque floors that e-mail: [email protected] [email protected], light up for ambience with the music. There’s also [email protected]. The home of the famous Kyr- a show at the bar where they light the bar on fire. gyz author T. Sydykbekov, is now managed by his Generally 500 soms entry unless you make connec- son the amiable Sabyrbek. It is very centrally lo- tions.. cated. Guests are welcome to use the kitchen facil- ities. Internet is available and the showers are now • Bar Kvartira (Apartment Bar), The corner of hot. dm/dbl/yurt 450/600/350 som. Frunze and Shopokov. Located across from Vic- tory Square in the basement of the Circus complex, • Sakura Guesthouse, Michurina 38 (Walk north Bar Kvartira is done up like a 'typical' Russian apart- from the crossing of Soviet and Jibek Jolu for 100m. ment. The waitresses dress up in short-shorts, hair- Turn right on the small alley between two shops and curlers, plaid shirts and slippers while the waiters keep walking for 50m, then turn right and you'll see wear sweatpants and Russian navy tunics. Drinks the guesthouse, coordinates: 42 53.183/74 36.842), are mid-range in price for Bishkek but the food is ☎ +996-312-380209, +996 777-324024 (Mobile), a little on the expensive side. Dance floor opens e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: around 21:00, and goes all night if the party can keep 9.00-00.15 (curfew), check-out: 11AM. This nice up. Bar games on Fridays and Saturdays. guesthouse, run by a very friendly Kyrgyz-Japanese couple, has two 6 bed dorms (with absolutely no additional furniture) and a collection of single and 3.11 Sleep double rooms. Bathrooms are plentiful and spot- less, with Western-style toilets, that are strictly BYO - toilet paper that is. There is also a small pool (2 x 3.11.1 Budget 3 m), an outdoor kitchen where you can do some cooking, and an area for hanging out and chatting. • Versal Hotel, Tashkentskaya 10. Only 2km north Free laundry. Free wifi. Bikes and motorcycles are of the city centre this small homestay hotel is a de- welcome to park inside. The Japanese half of the cent option in a quite neighboor of Bishkek. There owners might join you to the nightlife of the city are no signs outside and taxi drivers have problems if his wife is out of town. The alleys around the to find it. Doubles from $30. guesthouse are not lit and can feel a bit scary at night but are safe to go around. dm/sgl/dbl 550/850/1100 • Maria Guesthouse, # 223 Pobeda str. (5 min. som. . Closed from December till February. walking from Arzu restaurant), ☎ +996 778 320532, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-out: • South Guest House, ☎ +996 312 572623, e-mail: 12:00. The guesthouse is very clear and pleasant, it [email protected]. A great bargain with a nice view 3.11. SLEEP 19

of the mountains outside Bishkek. The young Kyr- 315102. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 13:00. Solid gyz host, Nanchan, can help accommodate to your mid-range option in a newly renovated building in needs with traveling suggestions, sightseeing tours, one of the nicer parts of central Bishkek. Large before you arrive. Pick-up from Manas Interna- rooms, free wifi, international TV, decent breakfast, tional is available. powerful showers, Nespresso machine in reception. from $60. • Vasiliy Guest House, ☎ +996 772 956410, e-mail: [email protected]. A Kyrgyz family living in a Rus- • Crocus Guest House, Komsomolskaya 5, ☎ +996 sian apartment block, run this friendly homestay. it 312 367164, e-mail: [email protected]. Guest can be easily reached by buses from centre. Break- house is a new hotel. Guest house, which has a cozy fast with fresh bread and home made jams is deli- family atmosphere, offers an accommodation in 6 cious. The mother does handicrafts and have a good double rooms with shower, the satellite television, collection of traditional work for sale. Vasiliy is a fridge, and Wi-Fi connection. Guesthouse also of- guide who can give useful information on trekking fers a garden with a summerhouse and sauna with and other out door activities. Pick-up from and the swimming pool. Guest house is located in the drop-off to Manas International is done in father’s quite east-northern part of city Bishkek, not far from old Lada. the main street “The Silk Way”. • KG Friends Hostel, 170/13 Toktogul Street (On Toktogul Street between Manas • MBA Business Center Hotel, Panfilov 237, ☎ and Isanova), ☎ +996 773 58 57 86, e-mail: +996 312 623120. Lots of space, a friendly staff, [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00 but questionable comfort and some broken appli- pm. The hostel is in the same yard as the Interhouse ances at this hotel located inside an actual business City Center Hostel. Self-serve kitchen. Free coffee center on the 4th floor. One thing worth noting is and tea. The washing machine is free of use. The the absence of stairs that may bring you to safety in hostel opened in July 2015 and is run by two nice case of a fire: the elevator is the only way in (and women. English, Italian or German spoken. dm out), since the staircase is blocked by a door at the 500 soms (8 USD). (updated Jul 2015) 3rd floor. Anyway, the staff assures that “there will be no fire”... 3.11.2 Mid-range • Radison Guesthouse in Kyrgyzstan!, Abdymo- • Futuro Hotel Bishkek, Кыргызская республика, munova 259, ☎ +996 312 32 31 81, fax: +996 312 г. Бишкек, ул. Хивинская 29, ☎ +996 312 98 68 32 31 81, e-mail: [email protected] 68, e-mail: [email protected]. This brand new fan- guesthouse downtown with a garden, air condition- tastic hotel offers great rooms with splurge facilities ing, private baths (w/ 24 hr hot water), satellite TV, and latest multimedia as Wi-Fi, english channels and and full concierge services. movies on demand. Great 24h service and if you have an early flight they prepare a lunchbox for you. The only downside is the location 5 km east of the 3.11.3 Splurge city center at the Chuy Ave, but there are frquent bus connections. Single/Double $60. • Ak Keme, Prospekt Mira 93, ☎ +996 312 540143, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 2PM, • Asia Mountains 2, 1-a Linienaya St (go south along check-out: 12PM. Upscale hotel located about 8 Gogol St all the way to the train line, then look for kilometers from city center, offers a conference cen- Linienaya (pretty much a driveway) on the right). ter, a health club, indoor and outdoor pools with bar Reasonable hotel with some mountain views. A bit access, and spa services. hidden away and a walk to the main streets but close to the Steinbrau pub. Asia Mountains 1 is on Gorky • Hotel Holiday, Abdrahmanova 204, ☎ +996 312 St south of the train line. (updated Jul 2015) 97 61 61, fax: +996 312 97 61 61, e-mail: • Alpinist, Panfilov 113, ☎ +996 312 595647, e- [email protected]. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: mail: [email protected]. A great value in the cen- 12PM price=. Popular and central hotel. Feel the ter of Bishkek; the Alpinist has single, double, and modern hospitality. triple occupancy rooms available with satellite TV and internet ports, a full service cafe, a conference • Hyatt Regency Bishkek, Sovietskaya 191, ☎ +996 room, and - being true to its name - a climbing wall! 312 661234, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 12PM, check-out: 3PM. 5-star hotel in • Touristan Guesthouse, 6 Koenkozova Street (Di- business district, largest in the country. Popular with agonally opposite Togolok Moldo Park), ☎ +996 312 foreign dignitaries and businessmen. 20 CHAPTER 3. BISHKEK

• Jannat, Micro Rayon 7, ☎ +996 312 911210, e- than to the militsya (police). Sometimes militsya will ap- mail: offi[email protected]. Check-in: 2PM, proach foreigners and ask them for documents, such as check-out: 12PM. This new hotel is located about your passport. It’s best to keep a photocopy of your pass- 20 minutes outside the city center and is home to port and leave the original at your hotel if you can. On the the Monte Carlo casino. Silk and felt textiles add a rare occasion they try to fine you for having “the wrong bit more of a Kyrgyz feel to the hotel. visa”, you are most likely just being set up for a shake down. Be polite, but firm, in your refusal and insist that • Club Hotel Bishkek, Frunze 425-B, ☎ +996 you be put in touch with your embassy first. 312 683888, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: Sometimes policeman approach you on the street, espe- 12PM, check-out: 3PM. This upscale luxury hotel cially if you look like a tourist, such as carrying a big is located on the 5th floor of the Dostuk Hotel. backpack, and ask to check the belongings. Often, their aim is to steal your valuables and money. They can do • Park Hotel Bishkek, Orozbekova 87, ☎ +996 it very professionally, and you only will notice later, that 312 665518, fax: +996 312 622497, e-mail: something disappeared. The best way, is to pretend you [email protected]. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: don't understand them, trying to call your embassy, or just 12PM price=. Modern, new hotel in the business walk away asap. Also keep your valuables in a safe place district. and don't expose them to others all the time in Kyrgyzs- tan. Even sometimes normal local people, who invite you to have a tea at their home, if they see that you left some 3.12 Stay safe valuables unattended, may be tempted to steal. Irrigation ditches and other holes in the ground can seri- While relatively safe compared to many major Asian ously injure the unaware person - especially when walking cities, one should use caution after hours in Bishkek. It at night. Many streets are poorly lit or not lit at all, and is highly recommended against taking an unaccompanied it is easy to fall into them. Avoid manhole covers, grates stroll after dusk and you definitely avoid parks at night. and similar fixtures - they are frequently loose and even Pickpockets are a major problem in and around markets, missing. especially at Osh Bazaar. Look out for young men with large plastic bags “bumping” into you. Keep your valu- ables at your accommodation if you plan to visit the mar- 3.13 Cope kets, and if you bring a purse, camera, backpack etc. keep it in front of you. Bishkek is the Eastern Europe of 30 years ago, except Nightclubs and their surrounding areas can be a hotbed with mobile phones and internet access. It is more or less for crime in the form of theft, prostitution, or even assault a museum relic of the former Soviet Union Bloc. De- by people waiting to take advantage of an unsuspecting spite Kyrgyzstan’s poverty and the decay of its infrastruc- traveler or expat. Ask locals or hotel staff which areas ture, Bishkek remains a relatively safe, clean, functional are safer than other and take precautions if you plan on city. Bishkek is not an old city and possesses no ancient club hopping. Do not walk from nightclub to nightclub landmarks, but it nonetheless has its own kind of charm, at night; instead spend 100 som ($US2.50) on a taxi. Po- which often arouses nostalgia in people who knew the old tential muggers have been known to wait outside bars and Soviet Union. For some visitors, Bishkek is merely a stop clubs, especially the ones frequented by ex-pats, follow on the Silk Road to refresh supplies before returning to drunk ex-pats and then rob them. the mountains. However, expatriates who call Bishkek Keep a cool head and be aware of your surroundings when home generally consider themselves lucky to benefit from hanging out inside and outside of nightclubs. Most clubs its easygoing lifestyle, open-minded spirit, party culture have numerous buff, semi-professional security guards, and low cost of living. If you come with the right expec- but you should be vigilant nonetheless. Do not leave any tations you might find yourself pleasantly surprised. belongings on the table while you go to dance. Be careful around the taxi area outside the club; occasionally, unsa- vory characters pick this location to mug drunk foreign- 3.13.1 Embassies ers as they leave the club late at night. You might not get • Canadian Consulate in Bishkek, Kyrgyzs- much help from club security when it comes to theft. tan, 189 Moskovskaya Street, ☎ +996 312 Bishkek has a large number of prostitutes and sexual- 65 05 06, fax: +996 312 65 01 01, e-mail: transmitted diseases are on the rise in Kyrgyzstan and [email protected]. Central Asia. Always take proper precautions if you plan on being sexually active. • China, Prospekt Mira 299/7, ☎ +996 312 597-481, If you are a victim of a crime, you are probably best e-mail: [email protected]. The embassy served by reporting the incident to your embassy, rather was recently moved, the old address at Toktogula 3.15. GO NEXT 21

street is no longer valid. For obtaining a tourist visa Vodkin, Vostok Zapad, Tubeteika, Movie City Bar, Bud- a inviting letter is required. Travel agencies, which dha Bar, etc.). There is also free wifi at the vefa shop- can provide it, are Kyrgyz Concept , Chui 126 and pingcenter on the corner of Gorkiy and Soviet. Mrs Liu, Chui 142. The price including consular Getting mobile phone service or even internet service is fees is $US120–150, But the lower price you can rather straight forward and a good idea, even if you're find in the “GS-tour” company. The price is US here for only a few days. You can purchase a SIM card $80 and higher. (☎English: +996555 51 52 52, (for GSM phones) at literally hundreds of retailers from: +996708 51 52 52, ☎Russian: +996773 75 10 00) Beeline, Megacom, and Fonex. Also, Nexi-com and Bee- Address: Shopokava 29, 3. line have offer 3G internet services. A SIM card is ap- proximately 100 soms (~$2.25) and you can also now re- • Germany, Rassakova 28, ☎ +996 312 905-000. charge it at numerous automated machines in the city, Germany offers the Schengen Visa in Kyrgyzstan. many of which feature an English language program. If you do not have a compatible phone, you can purchase a • Kazakhstan, Tynychtyk Avenue (old name: Mira), new no-frills model for as little as 1200 soms (~$27). 95 A, ☎ +996 312 69-20-95 (Consulate), e- mail: [email protected]. The Wikimapia entry. Phone number of the embassy: +996 (312) 69- 20-98. Payments for the visas must be made in 3.15 Go next Kazkommertsbank, the closest office is the Zhibek Zholy branch. Thirty minutes outside of Bishkek the 4,000 metre, 13,000 foot, “foothills” of the Tian Shan range (Celes- • Tajikistan, Karadarinskaya 36 (Take the trolley bus tial Mountains). 17 to south and get off the bus at the Duplex Lounge Bar. The embassy is at the end of the road that goes • Al-Archa National Park - This park goes the to the left after Duplex. By bicycle head south on length of a beautiful valley where you can hike in Soviet, turn left/east into Gorky, then south/right into several kilometres to a glacier. Inside the park is a Karl-Marx. Turn left/east at the 2.trafficlight. The hotel and couple of small cafes. Taxi services can embassy is at the end of the road. coordinates: 42 take you and wait a few hours for about 1000 som 50.866/74 37.756), ☎ +996 312 512-343. 10:00- ($US25). From the newly renovated lodge you can 13:00, 14:00-16:00. Tajiks visas are issued on spot. trek to the stone house located at 3,300m and it takes 30day $60 + 50som, 45day $70 +50som ,GBAO about 4–5 hours. The stone house charges 500 som permit is free.. per night for bunk beds or you can camp. From there you can climb Corona Peak or Uchitel peak 4,585m • United States of America, Prospekt Mira 171, ☎ or head to glacier. +996 312 551-241, fax: +996 312 551-264, e-mail: [email protected]. It is recommended that you • Burana Tower (Just outside the close-by town of visit the website for the embassy’s hours and the pro- Tokmok, which can be reached with a frequent cess for arranging an appointment. minibus departing from the east bus station of Bishkek. From Tokmok take a taxi or a bus, depart- • Uzbekistan, Tynystanov 213 (coordinates: 42 ing around 12 and 15, to Burana. The buses return to 52.390/74 36.536), ☎ +996 312 663-078. They Tokmok around 14 and 16). A nice tower/minaret won't even let you in unless you have an appoint- surrounded by some beautiful countryside. At the ment. Call after 14:00 and get one, most likely same site, there are also a small museum, some pet- for the next but one working day. Opening hours roglyphs, burial mounds and remains of walls. 30 Tue-Fri 12:00-noon. Download the applicationform som to climb the tower and about 15 som to enter at http://evisa.mfa.uz. Many nationals, including the museum. Finnish and Dutch, need a letter of invitaion. Pro- cessingtime is 12 days, urgent 4-8 days. With a • Trekking Union of Kyrgyzstan, Kievskaya 168 LOI you get it on the spot, even if you don't need (crossroad Turuspekova), ☎ +996 312 909115, e- one. They just need your passportcopy and don’t mail: [email protected]. This trekking club organizes take your passport. Price 30days US $75, urgent one day or longer public treks or hikes in the moun- US $105. tains around Bishkek, for just few hundreds soms a day, including transport to/from the start of the trek and guide. Food and equipment you should 3.14 Connect bring with you, though probably you could rent some equipment from them. Usually size of the group is Free wifi is now widespread. Most “foreinercafes” have 10+ people, both locals and expats. Booking few free wifi (Coffee, Foyer, Obama, Cyclone, Pirogoff- days in advance is better, since group size is limited 22 CHAPTER 3. BISHKEK

by number of the seats in the bus. They mostly have treks on weekends or holidays. Sometimes they have other outdoor activities like rafting etc... Their web- site have events schedule in English. Chapter 4

Toktogul

Toktogul is a city in the Northwest of Kyrgyzstan. 4.10 Connect

Azamat Joumashov, +996 551 111126 Guide translator 4.1 Understand speaking french

4.2 Get in 4.11 Go next

By taxi

4.3 Get around

4.4 See

• Toktogul Reservoir.

4.5 Do

4.6 Buy

4.7 Eat

4.8 Drink

Kumiz

4.9 Sleep

• Home stay Kaghan in Toktogul, st Israilov 18, tel/fix: +996 3747 50 443 tel/mob: +996 555 66 11 10 [email protected]

23 Chapter 5

Ferghana Valley (Kyrgyzstan)

Part of the Ferghana Valley lies in Kyrgyzstan. The whole 5.9 Do valley, both this part and the parts in other countries, is on the main route of the old Silk Road route between Kashgar and Samarkand. The Kyrzyg part is at the south- 5.10 Eat east extreme of the valley, nearest Kashgar. 5.11 Drink 5.1 Regions 5.12 Stay safe 5.2 Cities 5.13 Go next • Batken

• Jalal-Abad

• Khaidarkan

• Kyzyl-Kiya

• Osh

• Uzgen

5.3 Other destinations

5.4 Understand

5.5 Talk

5.6 Get in

Osh Airport has international flights.

5.7 Get around

5.8 See

5.8.1 Itineraries

24 Chapter 6

Batken

Batken is a town in the Ferghana Valley of Kyrgyzstan, close by to the border crossing to Tajikistan.

6.1 Get in

Shared taxis depart when full from Osh, taking about 5 hours and costing 1000 som when not crossing the Uzbek enclave. As the main road between Osh and Batken passes through a small bit of Uzbekistan, remember to ask the driver to go around if you do not have an Uzbek visa in addition to a multiple entry Kyrgyz visa.

6.2 Get around

6.3 See

6.4 Do

6.5 Buy

6.6 Eat

6.7 Drink

6.8 Sleep

6.9 Connect

6.10 Go next

Tajikistan

25 Chapter 7

Osh

• Turkish Airlines - Istanbul

• Pegasus - Istanbul, Bishkek (from €20)

• China Southern Airlines - Ürümqi

• Kyrgyzstan Airlines - Bishkek, Moscow- Domodedovo, Novosibirsk, Yekaterinburg

• S7 Airlines - Moscow

• Aerosvit - Kiev

• Uzbekistan Airways - Tashkent

Osh 7.2.2 By bus Osh is a city in the Ferghana Valley of Kyrgyzstan. There are two weekly sleeper buses (Mon and Fri) from Kashgar in China leaving at 10:00 (Beijing time) and the trip takes about 18 hours. The price is ¥470 and the buses 7.1 Understand depart from Kahsgar international bus station. As the road through Irkeshtam is at high altitude, remember to Osh (Kyrgyz: Ош) is the second largest city in Kyrgyzs- take warm clothes to the bus even during summer. Sit on tan, located in the south of the country and often referred the left for better views. to as the “capital of the south”. Osh is a lively place, with the largest and most crowded outdoor market in all of Central Asia, now named as the Great Silk Road Bazar. 7.2.3 By car The city is at least 3,000 years old and has served as the administrative center of Osh Province since 1939. The • To/From Bishkek. Prices of shared taxis from city has an ethnically mixed population of about 255,800, Bishkek vary quite a lot. In spring, when seasonal comprising 46% Uzbeks and only 43% Kyrgyz and other workers are travelling from Osh to the capital and smaller ethnic groups. then to Kazakhstan or Russia, it will cost less, and vice versa in autumn. The price of a shared taxi Bishkek-Osh was 1000-1500 som per person as of 7.2 Get in May 2012. Taxis to Bishkek park on Zainabetdi- nova street. Another good option is 500-700 som per person for a place in a cargo-passenger mini- 7.2.1 By plane van. It’s actually much more comfortable than a shared taxi, because it has sleeping bunks. It takes The Osh International Airport (IATA: OSS). is 11km some time to get to the center (in Osh cargo vans from the centre of Osh. A taxi to the city centre costs start from KaraSu market (30 som from the center); around 250 som. Marshrutka 107 takes 25 minutes from in Bishkek from DorDoi market (12 som from the Jayma Bazaar (9 som). The following airlines operate at center)). These vans take just 2-3 hours more than the airport: shared taxis and always run overnight, starting at 3-6 pm. Unfortunately, you will miss the great view on • Aeroflot - St Petersburg the Bishkek-Osh road because of this.

26 7.5. DO 27

• To/From Murghab. A place in a shared taxi to • Sulayman Mountain. A mountain looming over Murghab is 1500 soms (May 2012), in Russian jeep the city full of ancient sites of worship, some still in or normal jeep, though the last one is much more use, dating back several millennia. It is considered comfortable. Drivers like to overcharge tourists, but the most complete example of a Central Asian sa- remember, they badly need passengers, and finally cred mountain, and accordingly has been inscribed will agree to the regular price. You don't have to pay as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s also just extra for a reasonable-sized backpack or for a good a good place to have a hike and take in the views. seat (just be the first passenger to reserve one). But A cave in the mountain is the site of a museum con- the driver might ask you extra money if you would taining a collection of archaeological, geological and like to stop on the way to take photos. Anyway, historical finds and information about local flora and don't pay over 2000 soms. Jeeps to Murghab park fauna. 20 som. inside the car stand to Bishkek; ask around. There are very few jeeps every day, and some days there • Lenin Statue. One of the last Lenin statues re- are none. No fixed schedule, all depends on demand. maining in Central Asia. When they get enough passengers, they leave. You could come to the stand in the afternoon, exchange phone numbers with a few drivers and later join one, who will be leaving first. There is no public trans- 7.5 Do portation directly to Khorog; you have to change in Murghab. 7.6 Buy • To/From Sary Tash. To Sary Tash place in a shared taxi was 400-500 soms as of May 2012. They also park somewhere on Zainabetdinova street. But they could wait for passengers quite a long time, so a better option is to just head to the highway (for example take a marshrutka to Karatai or Gulcha from the old bus station) and hitch a ride from a marshrutka or private car passing by. Trucks could be very cheap (free-200 soms) but quite slow. Cars make it in 3 hours, but a truck could take 5-6 hours or more. In Sary Tash, usually there are a lot of trucks to Irkeshtam pass (daytime on workdays, 100 soms should be enough) but very very few extra transport on Pamir highway, and direct transport from Osh to Murghab could be full.

Osh Bazar 7.2.4 By bike

During the way from Bishkek, road reaches 3600 above • The Bazar (In the north of the town on both sides of sea level. In the pass there is 2 km long tunnel, therefore the river). One of the largest market/bazar in Central be careful or try to hitch big care in front and get off after Asia with plenty of different things for sale. If you that. are planning to buy souvenirs, do that here. And do not forget to negotiate. It is open 7/7, most dynamic on Sundays, partly closed on Mondays. 7.3 Get around

7.4 See 7.7 Eat

The city has several monuments, including one to the • Nirvana Restaurant. Short taxi ride outside of city southern Kyrgyz “queen” Kurmanjan Datka and one of center; European and local cuisine; good shashlyk, the few remaining statues of Lenin. A Russian Orthodox steak, chicken and beef burritos. Indoor and out- church, reopened after the demise of the Soviet Union, door dining areas, with toys for kiddies. Good ser- the largest mosque in the country (situated beside the vice, clean. They brew their own beer, the vats are bazaar), and the 16th-century Rabat Abdul Khan Mosque visible from the dining room in a large area next can be found here. door. 28 CHAPTER 7. OSH

7.8 Drink this; directly across from 3-story Yurt) in a predom- inantly business and university district of the city (great location). At the moment it has just one 4-bed 7.9 Sleep dorm. WiFi, self-service kitchen, laundry service are available. Western toilet is kept clean. Shower has a water heater, though you have to wait around half an hour till it gets hot. Owner Meri is really helpful and lovely, and though she has hearing dis- ability you can easily discuss by writing or Speech to Text software. Call ahead. 500 with breakfast (May 2015). (updated Jun 2015)

7.10 Connect

Talant Toksonbaev Speaking English coordinator Tourist Information Center mob: + 996 555 077621

Sulayman Too, Mt.Sulayman 7.11 Go next

On most days there will be a shared van to Sary Tash and • Osh Guesthouse, ... 3rd entrance, apt. 48. (A bit Occasional transport to Murghab. You will pay the full difficult to find. It is situated in the block between the fare to Murghab even if you want an intermediate desti- Kyrgyzstan rd. and Osh rd. Try to ask the locals or nation. the taxi drivers for directions.). Check-out: 12:00. A nice, basic and friendly hostel in a normal Osh flat. There are three 4 bed dorms, a double room and two kitchens. The hostel has three shared bath- room so you might have to wait a while to get your morning shower. Laundry service (for 60 som/kg). Wi-Fi is included in room price. English and Ger- man are spoken. Dorm 450 som, Single 1000 som, Double 1150 som (june 2015) (possible to bargain better prices over the phone if reservation is made in advance).

• Stari Gorad Hotel (Next to the New Mosque. Cross zainabetdinova street. First street on your right. First gate on your right. No sign. Entrance in a court- yard.). Check-out: 12:00. No dorm. Clean place, only private bathrooms, kitchen available. A nice woman runs the place. She speaks English. Double room 300 som/pp.

• Osh- Nuru Hotel (Ош-Нуру), 1, Bayalinov, ☎ +996 3222 7 56 14, e-mail: [email protected] big former Soviet hotel with partly renovated rooms, but also great budget offers in old-fashioned twin rooms (from €19 per room). The staff speaks En- glish and there is a nice pool and bar. Wi-fi is avail- able in the rooms. Check the latest offers online.

• Konok Hostel, Kurmanjan-Datka street 262/5 (5-minute walk from Bazaar), ☎ +996772345546. Check-in: 12:00, check-out: 13:00. This newly open hostel is located 5 minutes walk from bazaar on Kurmanjan-Datka street 262/5 (difficult to see Chapter 8

Issyk Kul and the Tian Shan

The shimmering Lake Issyk-Kul and the towering Tian the region (and the country, for that matter) with a Shan Mountains are two of the biggest draws for travelers touristy north shore and a rugged south shore in Kyrgyzstan, and they dominate the eastern portion of • the country. Lake Song Kul — a beautiful yet rather inaccessi- ble alpine lake, trips there are only feasible during summer months 8.1 Regions • Tash Rabat — an ancient caravanserai on the Silk Road, close to Torugart Pass 8.2 Cities 8.4 Understand • Balykchy — the gateway to Issyk Kul, Balykchy is a former fishing town with a train service from Bishkek through a beautiful pass 8.5 Talk • Cholpon-Ata — an upscale summer resort sur- rounded by mountains 8.6 Get in • Kadji Sai — a small lakeside picturesque town where you can have a radioactive bath (literally!) 8.7 Get around • Karakol — one of the gems of Issyk Kul, this was originally a Slavic settlement with a wealth of out- 8.8 See door sports available • Kochkor — a small village with a park containing 8.8.1 Itineraries various Soviet structures, and a local animal bazaar, as well as an entry of point for Song Kul 8.9 Do • Naryn — city bisected by Narin River, flowing through a beautiful gorge 8.10 Eat • Tamchy — mainly a beach resort, overnight yurt stays and horseback riding trips can be arranged here, too 8.11 Drink

• Tamga — town with a red sand beach; named after the nearby petroglyphs 8.12 Stay safe

8.13 Go next 8.3 Other destinations

• Lake Chatyr Kul — a scenic alpine lake with a high level of biodiversity

• Lake Issyk Kul — surrounded by the massive snow- capped Tian Shan, this is the main attraction of

29 Chapter 9

Balykchy

Balykchy (Балыкчы) is a city at Issyk Kul. 9.3 Get around

9.1 Understand 9.4 See

Balykchy is the gateway to Issyk Kul. It sits on the west- 9.5 Do ern bank of the lake. It was formerly known as Rib- achie (Рыбачие), Russian for fisherman and after inde- pendence was re-named with the Kyrgyz word. It was 9.6 Buy known as the center of the lake’s fishing fleet, but has suffered a major decline since the collapse of the Soviet Union. It now only on the path to the tourist sites of the 9.7 Eat lake, but largely by-passed. There are numerous vendors on the main road selling It is interesting to note the micro-climates of the Issyk smoked lake fish which is quite popular. Prices are inex- Kul, especially around Balykchy as there is little green or pensive and expect to be hoarded when stopping. In ad- snow at all times. dition, there are also several stands selling the local honey

9.8 Drink

9.9 Sleep

9.10 Connect

9.11 Go next

If wishing to go to the smaller salt lake approximately one hour from the city, you should be able to hire a tax from Balykchy railway station the local bus station.

9.2 Get in

The main road from Bishkek and the Chui Valley comes to Balykchy and splits into a Northern and Southern lake route in the city. There is also a daily slow train from Bishkek that goes through a very beautiful mountain pass to an under-used station to the south of the city. A marshrutka meets the train and will take you to the bus stand.

30 Chapter 10

Kochkor

Kochkor is a town in Kyrgyzstan's Issyk-Kul and the Tian a good place to stock up on any essentials that you might Shan region. be running low on. Kochkor’s park is a haven of greenery just south of the taxi stand. Within the park are various Soviet era struc- 10.1 Understand tures in various stages of use. There you will find the Kochkor museum (which may or may not be open), the Although Kochkor is best described as a gateway com- Wedding Palace, the cinema (now closed), the Cultural munity for its surround nature (mainly trips to Song Kul), Hall (still open and working, inside you will find a bil- there is still much to do during your visit. The best is just liard hall, library, performance hall, and antique Soviet to explore. The people are very friendly and willing to video games), the Sports Hall. strike up a conversation with visitors. 10.5 Do 10.2 Get in There are three competing community-tourism organisa- Kochkor has recently built a new taxi stand / bus sta- tions, what makes Kochkor the best place to plan an un- tion on the main road. There you can negotiate shared forgettable trip to Song Kul or other Kyrgyz jailoos. Be taxi rides to Bishkek, Naryn City, Balykchi, Cholpon Ata, aware that those trip are generally only practicable in the Kara Kol, and sometimes At Bashi or Jumgal. summer months between mid May to mid September ac- cording to the daily weather conditions. For a very com- If you are looking for a cheap ride, try one of the mini- mon two day / one night horse trip in a small group to van taxis (also known as mashrutkas) or (if you have lots Song Kul the rates are in total around 7000 som (1000 of time on your hands) one of the buses that runs from for accommodation in a yurt, 2600 for two days for horse Bishkek to At Bashi. rental, 1600 for transportation, 1200 for a guide, 600 for food).

10.3 Get around • CBT Kochkor. This community based organisa- tion has the biggest network throughout the country. Kochkor is a large village, but can be easily explored on foot. However, if you want to visit a nearby village, find- • Shepherds Life. Another professional tour orga- ing a taxi might be difficult. The best thing to do is walk nizer with a homestay in Kyzart village (20 km west in the direction you want to go and wave at a passing car of Kochkor). if you want them to stop. If they do give you a ride, it is • Jailoo. polite to offer them money for petrol. There are mashrutkas that run east / west on the main road from one end of the town to the other. But they 10.6 Buy keep irregular schedules. If purchasing sheep isn't what you came for, Kochkor still can offer the shopping traveler a variety of experiences. 10.4 See In the center, there are two bazaars, one for food and the other for clothes. If you are planning on going up into Every Saturday, Kochkor holds it Animal Bazaar. There the mountains and haven't got a pullover, now is the time you can view Kyrgyz livestock and observe local farm- to get one. Also, stop in the UNIMAG (Universal Maga- ers buying and selling their animals. The bazaar is also zine) and check out the bargains there.

31 32 CHAPTER 10. KOCHKOR

But what Kochkor is truly known for is the women’s hand- with/without bathroom are 1000/700 som including icraft cooperative, Altyn Kol (Kyrgyz for 'golden hand'). breakfast. Wi-fi is available for 50 som. Founded in the mid-90’s as a way to provide an alter- nate source of income for struggling rural families, Al- tyn Kol has become world known for its handmade felt 10.10 Connect carpets (shyrdaks). If you are visiting Kyrgyzstan during late May or late November, inquire about their bi-annual exhibition at the Kyrgyz Cultural Museum in Bishkek. 10.11 Go next

Kochkor is the gateway community to the scenic Song- 10.7 Eat Kul lake. Tours can be arranged in town.

Kochkor offers the standard fare for travelers, Russian cafe food with a Kyrgyz taste. The main cafes are:

• Retro Restaurant Formerly known as Cafe Baba Ata, they changed names two years ago. They have REAL coffee (espresso, cappucino, etc.) barista style, an English menu, good food and generally cater well for tourists. On the main road just west of the CBT Office and west of the Adamkaly hotel, beside Beeline. • Cafe Visit. one block west of the post office.

• Ash Liyam Fu (АШ ЛЯМ ФУ). on the main road next to the police station. This little shack is run by one of the few Dungan families in town. There they serve one thing, homemade Ash Liyam Fu, a cold and spicy Dungan noodle dish. It is the cheapest meal in town (around 25 som) and is said to be a great hangover cure.

If you want to self cater, the food bazaar sells wonder- ful fresh vegetables and fruit in the summer (make sure to wash with purified water). You can also find bread, cheese, and a variety of confections around the center.

10.8 Drink

• Retro Restaurant and Coffee Bar. Has coffee bar with espresso machine and full coffee menu, as well as tea and hot chocolate

10.9 Sleep

There are currently two locally run homestay providers, CBT Kochkor and CBT+ECO. Each have their homestay networks that sometimes overlap. Both offices are located near the new bus station / taxi stand.

• Adamkaly Hotel, e-mail: [email protected]. The hotel is located central close to the traffic light junction. It is more a homestay, but still most com- fortable accommodation in town. Double rooms Chapter 11

Naryn

11.3 Get around

On the main road, taxis are treated like marshrutkas - meaning people get on and off. As of August 2015, the fare for a ride is a mere 10 som, but can be 20 som if you want to go all the way back to the bridge. Do not pay more.

11.4 See

Unique from other cities with its red mountains, you can get a great view of the city if you climbs its hills. A few statues are visible from the main road, including a Lenin statue.

11.5 Do

• Tash Rabat - Naryn is the gateway to visiting this 500 year old pitstop on the Silk Road. Negotiating Naryn River with taxi drivers personally, it might be possible to get a car for 2000 soms, including waiting time and Naryn is a city in southeastern Kyrgyzstan, high in the coming back. Arranging it with the CBT is a good Tian Shan Mountains with a population of 52,300 resi- choice if you'd like to share a taxi and split the cost dents. with other travelers, with the CBT quoting a price of 2500 soms. The drive to Tash Rabat takes 2 hours.

11.1 Get in • Koshoi Korgon - ruins of a castle/fortress from the 10th to 12th centuries. All that remains are There are minibuses available from Bishkek for about the walls. Supposedly a friend of the legendary KGS200 and leaving 08:00-10:00 and also from Manas was buried here. Roughly an hour’s drive Kazarman and At-Bashy. from Naryn, it’s on the same road to Tash Rabat and A shared taxi from Balykchy costs 500 soms (2015). The easily visited. A small museum is located nearby. journey takes roughly 4.5 hours. Make sure your driver stops here on the way to or from Tash Rabat.

11.2 Get around 11.6 Buy Shared taxis are a convenient way to get around.

33 34 CHAPTER 11. NARYN

11.7 Eat

Restaurants are north of the street where the guesthouses are located. Just walk up the street and follow the music.

11.8 Drink

11.9 Sleep

The CBT (Community Based Tourism) office is located 200 meters from the marshrutka/taxi station. A board in English tells you where it is. The office is essential to helping set you up with a guesthouse (650 soms), as there are no signs for guesthouses. Arrive in Naryn before the CBT office closes at 5PM or 6PM so you can have a place to stay for the night.

11.10 Connect

Community Based Tourism office - The CBT office is es- sential in staying at a guesthouse or helping travelers share a taxi to a common destination, i.e. Tash Rabad. Ad- dress: Lenin St. 8/33. Tel: +996 (3522)50865. Mobile: +996 (779)567685. E-mail: [email protected]

11.11 Go next

There are minibuses available to Bishkek (200 som, de- parts between 8-10am) and also to Kazarman and At- Bashy. If traveling to Jalal Abad, the entire journey could take 10 hours. First, by taxi to Kazarman (which even the CBT quotes at an exorbitant 5000 soms) which can be negoti- ated to 3500 soms, which itself is a 4.5 hour ride. Then from Kazarman, hopefully there’s a marshrutka to Jalal Abad. If there’s no marshrutka, a shared taxi might be possible. There’s a man speaking English who organizes (?) shared taxis to Jalal Abad in Kazarman, quoting an outrageous 1000 soms a seat, even changing his mind to 2000 soms. Ignore him and negotiate with the driver per- sonally. From Kazarman to Jalal Abad, the ride is roughly 4-4.5 hours. Chapter 12

Song Kul

Song Kul is a high alpine lake in the Tian Shan Moun- with prices starting around $350. Agencies can also or- tains of Kyrgyzstan. ganize foot or horse treks to the lake.

12.1 Understand 12.3 Get around

12.4 See

12.5 Do

Climb the mountain behind the yurts for a great view over the lake. Takes several hours to get to the top.

12.6 Buy

12.7 Eat

Clean waters high in the Tian Shan Local herders will provide interesting meals (sometimes including horse) along with the accommodation. If a lot It is the second largest lake in Kyrgyzstan (18x29km of tourists are expected, you can watch them butcher a wide, 13 meters deep) after Issyk kul. Its name, meaning whole sheep in under 30 minutes. “following lake”, is popularly considered to refer to this relation. It is surrounded by a broad summer pasture and then mountains. The area is inhabited and safely accessi- ble only from June to September. 12.8 Drink

12.9 Sleep 12.2 Get in There are no facilities on the lake, but local herders will Its beauty is greatly praised, but it is rather inaccessible. provide supplies and rent yurts for about $14 per night The best approach with your own car seems to be the including meals. Agencies, including CBT, can arrange 85 km road from Sary-Bulak on the main north-south these in advance but it is also possible to just show up. highway. Other routes require 4x4s. It is very com- mon to do a organized day trip by horse or hiking from Kochkor or less frequented from Naryn. CBT can ar- range return transport for $80-$100 per car from their of- 12.10 Connect fices in Kochkor (which can be reached by minibus from Bishkek) or for a much higher price from their office in 12.11 Go next Bishkek. Some companies like Iron Horse Nomadscan bundle the transportation from Bishkek with CBT hous- ing and an English speaking driver who stays with you

35 Chapter 13

Issyk Kul

Issyk Kul (Kyrgyz: Ысык көл Ysyk Köl, Russian: foreigners for a period of time. Issyk Kul is divided be- Иссык-Куль) is a lake in Kyrgyzstan. The name refers tween the more populated and touristy North Shore and both to the lake and the oblast (region) containing the the more rugged and less populated South Shore. lake. The region is centered around the massive Issyk Kul lake, which is the second largest alpine lake in the world. It is completely ringed by the massive snow-capped Tian 13.2 Cities Shan mountains that lie between 3000 and 4000 meters. • Karakol - is the largest city and the capital of Issyk- Kul oblast. 13.1 Understand • Balykchy - is a small, dying industrial center on the western shore that you will encounter as you enter the pass from the Chui Valley

• Cholpon Ata - is the central city for tourism. Most of the resorts are within 50 km of Cholpon Ata.

There are plenty of smaller villages at lake shore, with cheaper accommodation and less tourists.

13.3 Other destinations

Jeti-Oguz

Beach at northern shore of Issyk Kul 13.4 Talk Issyk Kul is a slightly saline deep water body. Years of over-fishing have decimated its fisheries and many of Russian and Kyrgyz are the primary languages. Some the smoked fish sold in the surrounding cities come from hospitality staff may speak English, but it is much more other alpine lakes. Due to a lack of reasonable control on helpful to know basic Russian. tourism, many sub-standard and unfinished low quality tourism resorts ring the lake’s north shore. Nevertheless, there still remain numerous places to appreciate the true 13.5 Get in beauty of Issyk Kul. A mountain pass road being constructed between Issyk 13.5.1 By bus Kul and Almaty, Kazakhstan is set to increase the num- ber of tourists in the coming years and without govern- The simplest way to reach Issyk Kul is by minibus from ment controls on development, exposing the lake to more Bishkek western bus station (Западный автовокзал Za- tourists will only deplete its natural beauty. The Issyk Kul padniy avtovokzal). There are minibuses that goes over lake reaches to 663 meters deep in the center. The east northern or southern shore, you can arrange with driver to end of the lake was also once used as a torpedo testing stop at your desired village. The price is about 250 som site by the Soviet Navy, making the region off limits to to Cholpon Ata or 300 som to Karakol.

36 13.10. DRINK 37

13.5.2 By taxi on the beach. You can find numerous shashlik stands in the summer serving marinated grilled lamb and beef. You can arrange a van or taxi from Almaty or Bishkek. A hired driver one-way from Bishkek will cost up to • Radyga Resort This resort features a less than stel- $100. Leave from the western bus station (Западный lar restaurant, but does have a NY Pizza franchise. автовокзал Zapadniy avtovokzal) to get to Issyk Kul. A seat in a 4-person shared car to Cholpon Ata will cost • Four Seasons Restaurant The Four Seasons about 500–1000 som. Beware that prices may differ restaurant popular in Bishkek also has a restaurant in largely between different drivers and be prepared to bar- front of the Hotel Aurora. It served good Caucasian gain. You may wish to team up with other travelers (or and European dishes and is the nicest restaurant on locals) and negotiate a price together, locals often pleased Issyk Kul lake. to ensure that you pay the local fare. Prices may be higher on weekends or peak season. 13.10 Drink 13.5.3 By train Some locals believe drinking the slightly saline water of There is also a scenic train ride from Bishkek to Balykchy. Issyk Kul has health benefits. But, there is a uranium tail- The train is slower than bus or car, and there is only one ing pond on the south shore, that likely runs off into the train to Balykchy departing early morning and returning lake. back at afternoon. But the train ride boasts amazing views of the mountain pass. And the tickets are very cheap, for 70 som. Beware that the train cabin will reach high 13.11 Stay safe temperatures in summer. There are no lifeguards at any of the beaches. 13.6 Get around There are no nudist beaches and women being topless is quite rare, but local custom has no adversion to extremely skimpy swimsuits. All of the larger cities have bus and taxi stations where you can negotiate rides. If you are in a smaller city, you Beware, as the lake sits at 1600 meters above sea level, a can just ask around for a car and driver and receive a rea- few days in the sun can do more damage to your skin than sonable rate. a week at sea level.

13.7 See 13.12 Go next

13.7.1 Itineraries

The locally published Spektator magazine has an online guide to circumnavigating Issyk Kul.

13.8 Do

There are many routes for hiking into the mountains sur- rounding the lake. Issyk Kul is also ringed by hundreds of kilometers of beaches popular for swimming and sun- ning.

13.9 Eat

Most of the restaurants serve “national and European” cuisine, which amounts to local and Russian food. There are few restaurants catering to western tastes. Most locals pack their own food and prepare in their hotel rooms and Chapter 14

Cholpon-Ata

Cholpon Ata is a summer resort on the northern shore • Asian place. At the end of Gorky, on the left of Lake Issyk Kul. In summer it is quite crowded, full of side. The Chinese chef serves up great lakhman and wealthy Kazakhs, Russian and a few locals. shashlyk as well as other local specialties. Very pop- ular. Mains 150-200 som.

14.1 Get in 14.6 Drink Taxi from Bishkek (3-4 hours, 1500 som per car, Septem- • ber 2009), marshrutka from Bishkek (6 hours, 250 soms Green Pub. Green decored pub in the city centre per person, September 2009) with heavy wooden tables.

14.1.1 By plane 14.7 Sleep

In Tamchi, 15 km to the east is small airport serving for • Pegasus Guesthouse, Sovetskaya 81 (On the main tourists in summer road between the bus stations). Friendly but reserved host who specialises in horse tours. Rooms are com- fortable with outside toilet and shower. Great meals. 14.2 See 500 som per night • Tri Korony (Три Короны). A mid-range resort Old petroglyphs, highest peaks of this part of Tian-Shan a little from the city centre. Friendly hotel with 60 rooms at low quality with products from China. Run down pool, but great beach and descent prices with full board. Double 3500 som. 14.3 Do

14.4 Buy 14.8 Go next

There are several ATMs in Cholpon Ata but most only take VISA. For MasterCard head to the bank located op- posite UniCredit bank, by the eastern bus stop (going to Karakol).

14.5 Eat

• Sambucca Cafe. Nice restaurant with live music in the summer (note there may be a 50 som charge for the music) located on the left side of the main road heading to Karakol, almost opposite Zodiac. Try the great “Jarovnya” - meat on a hot iron plate. Mains 200-300 som.

38 Chapter 15

Kadji Sai

Kadji Sai is a small picturesque town in the middle of the south lakeshore of Issyk Kul. It lies a few kilometres from the shore, where there is a bus stop. There is a long poplar alley, an old building built by German war prison- ers (actually the best-made building in town). Behind the town there is a stone wall.

15.1 Get in

You have to come to main road and wait for bus/marsrutka/taxi/private car. Marschrutka to Biskek costs around 350 soms (September 2009) and it takes around 4 hours.

15.2 See

Beautiful surroundings. There is also orphanage for eth- nic Kyrgiz from all over the region of Central Asia. But most known is for its former surface uranium mine that is now practically deserted because of its low richness. It is not very secured, so when it rains (fortunately it is not often), radioactive water flows to the lake. But swimming there is excellent, with a bit of adventure. Something like roentgen...

15.3 Do

15.4 Eat

15.5 Sleep

15.6 Go next

39 Chapter 16

Karakol

Karakol (Каракол) is a city in Kyrgyzstan on the east of 16.1 Get in Lake Issyk Kul. Karakol is a true gem in the rough, just awaiting a mas- From Bishkek Regular bus/Marshutka and taxi services ter jeweler to polish her up. It holds great potential as a leave Bishkek in the morning for the 5–6 hour drive. future tourism destination, offering year-round trekking, Bus/Marshutka fare is around 300 soms (Dec 2011), and mountaineering, skiing, and spaing opportunities, set in a a seat in a taxi is 500–600 soms (July 2012). If you go picture perfect setting of traditional Russian homes. to Balykchy or somewhere on the lake’s northern shore, these services might take you for a reduced fare. This town was formerly called Przhevalsk (Пржевалск) during the Tsarist and Soviet era. It is located at the far From Kazakhstan Regular buses and taxis leave for the end of the Issyk Kul, nestled in the Tian Shan mountains, Kazakh border to Kegen regularly, although the border and is the capital of the Issyk Kul Oblast (region). crossing at the Karkara Valley is currently closed. From Tamchy (Issyk Kul) Airport Tamchy is approx- imately 2½–3 hours away, and taxis can be arranged lo- cally. Tamchy has limited air service on SCAT airways during the summer travel season. Karakol Airport Karakol has an airport, largely used for charter service and located on the northern edge of the city. In 2011 Almaty-Karakol flights flew once a week during the ski season and schedules may be reinstated again in 2012.

16.2 Get around

Taxis costs between 50 and 60 soms.

Mountain view near Karakol There are also local mini-buses that ply planned routes.

The city was originally founded by Russian Tsarist troops 16.3 See as a military outpost, and it is the resting place of Nikolai Przewalski, the famed Russian explorer and naturalist. It • Dungan Mosque. This is one of the few mosques is a city of traditional Russian houses, nestled between that dodged Soviet destruction. It was built in 1910 the Tian Shan mountains and Lake Issyk Kul. by the local Dungan community that escaped Chi- Karakol was originally a Russian settlement, and it’s still nese oppression as a house of worship. Completely one of the few remaining large Slavic communities in of wood without nails, it is painted in numerous col- Central Asia. Unfortunately, unemployment and the re- ors. It is still used as a house of worship, are tourists sulting alcoholism have left a toll, as many young people are gladly welcomed. have left, and the soaring crime rate has made it rather dangerous at night. • Holy Trinity Cathedral. This traditional Russian There are limited tourist facilities for the discerning wooden cathedral with an onion dome has recently tourist, while there is much to be offered to the adven- undergone extensive restoration work, paid for by turous traveler. the local Slavic community.

40 16.5. BUY 41

• Regional Museum. This museum hosts numerous • Hire a bicycle, Ecotrek tourism. Around 600 Som archeological bits from the Scythian era and many per day for a fairly decent mountain bike - good for stuffed animals, culled from the mountains. While exploring the local area. there is much to see, little of the information avail- able is in English, and the staff do not speak English. Still, the place is worth a visit. 16.5 Buy • Przevalski Museum and Memorial. Set a few miles outside the city, the museum hosts the life In the town centre, there is a local Tsum, opened only un- story of one of the world’s great explorers, who died til 5PM. They have a limited selection of outdoor goods in Karakol in 1888. It is a true testimonial to Russian and souvenirs. Is recommended to check prices at lo- colonization of Central Asia. The staff here speak cal bazaars, where you can buy everything. On the main English. street next to Caravan you will find the One Village, One Product store run by JICA. They have a variety of locally To the rear of his resting place lies the remnants of a So- made products and handicrafts. Interesting soaps, jams, viet torpedo testing facility. and felt products! There is an antique shop down the main street (south) • Zoo, Near stadium. The Karakol zoo has many towards the bazaar. native species native to Kyrgyzstan such as bears, wolves, camels, and various hoofed creatures. Local Honey can be purchased at the bazaar. Sea Buckthorn products can be purchased seasonally. 16.4 Do

• Karakol Ski Base. At 3040 meters, this is the 16.6 Eat highest ski resort in Central Asia. It is located ap- proximately 30 minutes from Karakol and features Karakol is known throughout Kyrgyzstan for its Dungan 2 chalets and a hotel with a sauna. There are no specialty Ashliam-fu. This is a dish of cold noodles in chair lifts but several T-bars and rope lifts take you a spicy vinegar sauce. The best place to eat is near the to some of the best runs. Lift tickets are only $8, bazaar in the shed-like building across the street from and they recently purchased new ski equipment for KICB bank. rent. Asman is the place for shashlik and has a DIY water- • Altyn Arashan Hot Springs Hot springs located cooling feature (opposite the central park) . Fakir restau- within hiking distance from Karakol. rant for decent Central Asian Cuisine. Kalinka, a Rus- sian restaurant, also offers affordable, decent eats with horrible service. Kench, on the outskirts of town, offers • Jeti Oghuz Hot Springs An ageing Russian sana- probably the best dinner option for the biggest price. It torium will greet you here. should still be very cheap by western standards. If you are vegetarian or looking for cheap western-style • Karakol Canyon The Karakol Canyon offers ex- food, check out 'Lovely Pizza, in the corner of Prvomajsa cellent hiking. It’s possible to hike to the beautiful (1-May) and Moskovska (near the university, behing the Ala-Kul lake from this canyon. Arrange guiding in park). They serve delicious pizza and cold beer in their town at the Karakol’s Community Based Tourism outside terrace or in the cosy interior. or CBT. If you're looking for a good home cooked Russian meal, • FGS : geo-physic station (2580 m.), Chong Kyzyl try Yak Tours (in high season only!). The owner’s wife Suu, ☎ +996 312 564733. On the top of the Chong is an excellent cook. Kyzyl Suu valley, you will find an geo-physic and meteorologic station build in wood in 1948 by Ger- The Salam Aleykum cafe just opened near Amir Hotel. man builders. Families staying there all the year It’s open only in the evenings, and you can see some show around will explain their activities and can guide you of dance, music, and Kyrgyz handicraft. around the whole region. Possibility to sleep in the Karakol is probably the only place in country, where you station. High routes going to Jeti Oguz through Ar- can have goulash. cha Toer pass, to Kitshi Kyzyl Suu valley through Salvator pass, or Syrtha Ak-Shirak through Ashu Toer pass. Glacier lake Kashka Toer (3 hours walk), • Karakol Coffee, 112a Toktogula. 800-2200. Cof- lake Shakartma (3 hours hike) 250. fee, desserts, snacks, beer, pizza. 42 CHAPTER 16. KARAKOL

16.7 Drink shared toilets and showers. The staff can sell you a detailed map of neigboring mountains. 250 som per Karakol Coffee has real coffee, wifi, some snacks, and person (Aug 2010), don't afraid to bargain if they drinks. On the main street next to the big restaurant Za- will you charge more. rina. • Marzey Guesthouse, 6, Korolkova Street, ☎ +996 Vodka, vodka and vodka... 772 545620. Lovely garden in the center of the town, in a quiet part of town. All rooms are with attached bathroom. 700 soms. 16.8 Sleep • Tagatai Hotel, Tinistanov St. More upscale, mod- • SunHouse Hostel Karakol, 3, Novostroika str. ern hotel on the quiet and tree-lined Tinistanova (1.5 km from Pobedy Park), ☎ +996 772254004, (Pervui Maya) street. e-mail: [email protected]. Offers a shared lounge, a shared kitchen and a tour desk. Free Wi- • Ala-Kol Guesthouse, ☎ +996 555 900859, e-mail: Fi access is available. The property features bright [email protected]. The guest house is located dormitory rooms. 15$/10$. in a quiet area, and is close to the skiing resort Karakol. It is owned by a couple who runs the • Amir Hotel is clean and modern with friendly guesthouse. It offers single, double, and triple oc- English-speaking staff. cupancy neat rooms with a fantastic view of snow covered mountain peaks opening up from the win- • Community Based Tourism(CBT) Karakol can dows. Some rooms have rollaway couches. There is arrange excellent home stays. CBT is in the city cen- karaoke, sauna, video games, satellite TV, free Wi- ter, on Abdrakmonov Street. Fi, transport to sights upon request. The owner’s wife is an excellent cook who prepares traditional • Green Yard is a very nice guesthouse near the meals and serves very tasty breakfasts. The owner mountains. A room costs around 1200-1400 per of the house and the staff are very hospitable and night. Very nice accommodations, Wi-Fi, great helpful. As they ski, hike and paraplane themselves, breakfasts, and tea always available in the common they can be very helpful in advising the tours worse dining room. visiting and the sights worse seeing. Room 8$−15$ per person, breakfast included. • In front of Salam Aleykum, you have a yurt camp for 250 soms per night. Salam Aleykum is not • Hostel Nice, 76 Gebze Street (next to owner, but you can reserve there. “Pobeda” Park), ☎ +996 708 559 918, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 1PM- • Yak Tours Guesthouse, Gagarina 10 (Just half a 9PM, check-out: 1PM. Offers very clean accom- block away from the central bazaar). A nice guest- modation and camping. Bed in a dorm room is just house in an old wooden house. Beds are comfort- $8, stay in a yurt $8 as well, pitching a tent in the able, rooms clean and the dog is very friendly. There garden is $3. Prices include free use of Wi-Fi, big is laundry service and a small restaurant within the kitchen, hot showers, flush toilets, summer terrace guesthouse. However, the place only has one bath- and any fruit you can find in the garden. Location room/toilet so there might be some queueing in the is close to public mini-bus stop that enables you morning. s: 300 som, it is from September 2009. to access many places around town. Place is run by very helpful nice English-speaking family. • Guest house Hutorok (1790), Alybakova 63 (near $3/$8/$10. (updated Jan 2016) Park Pobeda), ☎ +996 312 564733. Comfortable homestay in old-style Karakol house. 2 bathrooms, 10 beds, nice garden, good food, quiet, about 1.5km 16.9 Cope uphill walk from town near Park Pobeda. No En- glish spoken. The houses are from 1938 and 1960. On the way to the ski resort of Karakol. Booking 16.9.1 Visa extension through Nomad’s Land Ecotourism agency. 650 per person. OVIR Kushtobaev/Kutmanalieva, 50m NW of milit- sia/police coordinates:42 29.908/78 23.971 9am-5pm 1 • Yurt Camp, Toktogula 273 (Go south-east from month visa extension at the same day Bring your passport, the bus station, at traffic lights turn right and then two passport-pictures, one copy of the relevant pages in 300 meters). Accommodation in real yurts, although your passport and fill out two forms. Go to the RSK Bank they have non-authentic plastic covers. There are (Toktogul 271, near Turkestan yurt camp, coordinates: 16.10. GO NEXT 43

42 29.696/78 23.895), go to the counter on the right, write on a piece of paper your name and the sum you have to pay (1000 som, 8/2001) then you’ll get a form and can pay the money on counter „1“. Simple, isn’t it?!? There is an 15som fee for the transaction. Back at the OVIR you’ll get your passport back, but you’ll be asked for another 153som fee for the sticker. (niet receipt, cer- tainly...)

16.10 Go next

• Shared Taxis to Bishkek leave all day from outside the main bus station. Prices are 500-600 som, the trip takes 4-5 hours (and always stops for a snack outside of Balykchi). Taxis also leave for Cholpon Ata, especially during summer months.

• Marshrutkas (shared vans) to Biskek cost 250-300 som per seat, and also leave all day from the bus sta- tion. A marshrutka stops more often and may take 6 hours. Buy your tickets at the каccа window, or occasionally from the driver.

• Buses to Bishkek leave at 20:00 and 21:00 from the backside of the bus station and cost 330 som (ar- riving in Bishkek the next morning at 530-600. . Choose whether you will go by southern (station is at easternsouth way from centre) or northern shore (from bazaar) of the lake. North is more frequented. Chapter 17

Tamchy

Beach in Tamchy Tamchy skyline

Tamchy (тамчы) is a small city in Kyrgyzstan. Tamchy between Junushaliev St. and Babash St. is located in the Issyk Kul Province and is a wonderful place to experience the lake. 17.4 Do 17.1 Get in The main attraction here is the beach, where you can swim and walk around. You can also hike to the moun- The easiest and cheapest way to get to Tamchy is by tains to the north, or coordinate activities with the local minibus. From Bishkek, a minibus should cost about CBT. 200 som per person. Another option is to take a pri- vate taxi, although this will be more expensive. Private taxis in Bishkek and Karakol can be found waiting out- side the long distance bus station (автовокзал)and it can 17.5 Buy cost about 1300 to 1500 soms per car.

17.2 Get around

Tamchy has no bus station, and upon arriving in Tam- chy you will be dropped off on its largest street, Manas (Манас). Tamchy is a very small town and walking is the best way to get around. Streets go south from Manas towards the beach.

17.3 See

Tamchy has one small mosque located on Manas St. A WWII Monument and a small local museum can be found A brook in the desert above the village

44 17.9. GO NEXT 45

Tamchy has one handicraft shop located on Babash St. and many B&Bs will offer you similar items.

17.6 Eat

A few cafes can be found near the beach offering Central Asian and Russian dishes. Notice that there are no opn restaurants or cafes outside the summer season. Shashlik, lagman and plov are favorite dishes here. All menus are in Russian and there are very few vegetarian options. Veg- etarians might want to try asking for dishes “bez myasa” (без мясо), “without meat”. B&B’s can also make meals for about 200 som. For self-catering, a few shops can be found along Manas. Here you can buy bread, noodle dishes, drinks, cookies, sweets, etc.

17.7 Drink

Along the beach is one disco serving drinks and play- ing music, and most cafes serve beer and vodka (summer only.

17.8 Sleep

Most of the houses in Tamcy seem to offer accommo- dation, with prices between 150-200som per person per night. Look for signs that say "Комнаты", “rooms”, or just ask around. If you want to pay more, CBT has many B&Bs in Tamchy, though if approached directly you will save on the CBT commission. At the eastern end of village, there is small hotel Valencia run by Russian family. Smallest double, full board, pool, hot shower, European toilet and very well kept garden with altans, costs 10 euros per person and night (Septem- ber 2009).

17.9 Go next

To leave Tamchy, wait by the side of the main road and hail down cars. If you see a minibus stopping, ask where they are going and if they have room for you. Many minibuses pass through so this should be fairly easy to do. Cholpon-Ata is 45 km away, Karakol 180 km, Baly- chy 48 km and Bishkek is 220 km. Chapter 18

Tamga

Tamga lies in the middle part of the south shore of Issyk 18.5 Sleep Kul Lake, 1 km from the beach with red sand. There are a few privately run guesthouses, but they are not cheap. Apparently they are using the fact that you have 18.1 Understand no choice. Just next to the bazaar there is Tamaras Guesthouse B&B, 18.1.1 History in front of which there is a small shop run by Kyrgyz family. Tamara and her daughter Alia speak fluent En- glish. Tamara was a teacher of and lit- Tamga got its name from an old petroglyph text; its name erature, her husband Akbar was journalist. Interesting can be translated as letter. Nobody translated the text yet, and resourceful people to speak with. Tamara is able to nobody knows how old it is, but there are speculations organize horse tours with guide and old horses for inexpe- about old Tibetan language. rienced riders if needed. B&B costs 500 soms (Septem- ber 2009). Do not accept the offer to eat in her place instead of kafe which is 50 meters away. Tamara charges 18.2 Get in 200 som for lagman with bread and tea, while in kafe you would pay 70 only. Either from Karakol by taxi, marshrutka, bus or hitch- Close to the entrance of the village, on the left side, there hike, or from Balicnyi by the same ways. is guesthouse run by a Russian. She does not negotiate and does not go lower than 600 per person. It’s further from centre. 18.3 See 18.6 Go next • Petroglyphs - you won't find it yourself, ask for a guide. It lies around 20 minutes by horse from the centre.

• Christian/Muslim cemetery, on dry hills behind the village.

• Sanatorium where Jurij Gagarin was preparing for the first cosmic flight ever. Open until September 15.

18.4 Eat

Behind the main sanatorium entrance there is cafe that serves common Kyrgyz stuff - lagman, manty, samse... and some other food. They have tasty pasta-style lagman. At the main crossroad there is a cafe that serves food.

46 18.7. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 47

18.7 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

18.7.1 Text

• Kyrgyzstan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kyrgyzstan?oldid=2903771 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Syced, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, W. Frank, Ypsilon, Shaundd, AHeneen, Vidimian, Inas, JamesA, Pashley, Tsandell, Globe-trotter, Yann, Cacahuate, Epolk, Vmenkov, Romaine, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT- en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT- en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Abi, (WT-en) Jake73, (WT-en) Ypsilon, (WT-en) Travelbird, (WT-en) Joelf, (WT-en) ALT wikignome, (WT- en) Bijee, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) CIAWorldFactbook2002, (WT-en) Kahraman, (WT-en) Norvak, (WT-en) Robert- Antonio, (WT-en) MarcoPolo, (WT-en) SebastianGS, (WT-en) Hongu, (WT-en) Kjgash, (WT-en) Richteabiscuites, (WT-en) Fsxnate, (WT-en) Trinculo, (WT-en) Studiomilam, (WT-en) Lladnar1, (WT-en) Olomachad, (WT-en) Rimma79, (WT-en) Mayanrose, (WT-en) Samtranum, Ikan Kekek, Graham87, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Andrewssi2, Sumone’s bot, CarsracBot, Crochet.david.bot, Tex- ugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Rastapopulous, Addbot, Uhkabu, MargNely, Rubbish computer and Anonymous: 106 • Bishkek and the Northwest Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bishkek_and_the_Northwest?oldid=2886762 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Eco84, Texugo and Traveler100bot • Bishkek Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bishkek?oldid=2879497 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, Peter- fitzgerald, Atsirlin, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, AHeneen, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Romaine, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Valtteri, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Fastestdo- gever, (WT-en) Zainiqbal, (WT-en) Rouge, (WT-en) Abi, (WT-en) Zepppep, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Janki, (WT-en) Xidew, (WT-en) J-P, (WT-en) Strunger11, (WT-en) Robert-Antonio, (WT-en) Liorv, (WT-en) Bermet777, (WT-en) MarcoPolo, (WT-en) Sahmeditor, (WT-en) Hongu, (WT-en) Kjgash, (WT-en) SWildman3, (WT-en) Meder, (WT-en) Cpopa, (WT-en) Aelfthrytha, (WT-en) Zadurrani, (WT-en) Alder99, (WT-en) Kadishmal, (WT-en) Vandave, (WT-en) Abtin2005, (WT-en) Bengt, (WT-en) Bertrudeppants, (WT-en) Georgian, (WT-en) Suenito32, Mey2008, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, JuliasTravels, EvanProdromou, JimKillock, CarsracBot, Clarke996, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Wakefieldgdm, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Danapit, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Uhkabu, Zenwort, Byrdabroad, AntonBryl, Smokestack Basilisk, MargNely, Sixer Fixer, Thisisnotatest and Anonymous: 123 • Toktogul Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Toktogul?oldid=2407817 Contributors: LtPowers, The Anome, Texugo, Inasbot, Trav- eler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2 • Ferghana Valley (Kyrgyzstan) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ferghana_Valley_(Kyrgyzstan)?oldid=2953408 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Pashley, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, BIL and Traveler100bot • Batken Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Batken?oldid=2301903 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) J-P, Eco84, The Anomebot2, Inasbot and Traveler100bot • Osh Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Osh?oldid=2901437 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, W. Frank, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Saqib, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Bill Ellett, (WT-en) J-P, (WT-en) Mosafer, (WT-en) Aroundeworld11, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, INeverCry, Texugo, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Ma- troc, Addbot, Uhkabu, Agenbite, Lostinchina and Anonymous: 22 • Issyk Kul and the Tian Shan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Issyk_Kul_and_the_Tian_Shan?oldid=2954814 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Texugo and Traveler100bot • Balykchy Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Balykchy?oldid=2301906 Contributors: LtPowers, Globe-trotter, (WT-en) Robert- Antonio, (WT-en) Kjgash, The Anomebot2, Inasbot and Traveler100bot • Kochkor Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kochkor?oldid=2953658 Contributors: Wrh2, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, K7L, (WT-en) Kahraman, (WT-en) Studiomilam, The Anomebot2, Styxyts~enwikivoyage, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc, Uhkabu, Thilver, Evanprice7 and Anonymous: 3 • Naryn Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Naryn?oldid=2957592 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Hayesgm, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Uhkabu, Godhand1 and Anonymous: 1 • Song Kul Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Song_Kul?oldid=2690026 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Saqib, Ste- fan2bot, Texugo, Pen15~enwikivoyage, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Bertilvidet, Uhkabu and Anonymous: 2 • Issyk Kul Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Issyk_Kul?oldid=2670778 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Tsandell, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Hayesgm, (WT-en) Robert-Antonio, (WT-en) Kjgash, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Matroc, Uhkabu and Anonymous: 3 • Cholpon-Ata Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cholpon-Ata?oldid=2882564 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, (WT-en) Rimu, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Uhkabu and Anonymous: 3 • Kadji Sai Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kadji_Sai?oldid=2955322 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Texugo, Trav- eler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Karakol Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Karakol?oldid=2919412 Contributors: Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Robert-Antonio, (WT-en) Liorv, (WT-en) Hongu, (WT-en) Kjgash, (WT-en) Cpopa, Mey2008, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, AntonBryl and Anonymous: 20 • Tamchy Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tamchy?oldid=2597281 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vmenkov, (WT-en) Li- orv, (WT-en) Ellenbarth, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 5 • Tamga Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tamga?oldid=2822662 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Uhkabu, Wiki9gel and Anonymous: 1 48 CHAPTER 18. TAMGA

18.7.2 Images

• File:200_som_2010_rev.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/70/200_som_2010_rev.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: http://www.bonistica.ru/cat/asia/kyrgyzstan/kgs2010 Original artist: Национальный банк Кыргызской Республики • File:Balykchy_railway_station.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/07/Balykchy_railway_station.jpg Li- cense: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Robert-Antonio - User: (WT-shared) Alecu-russo at wts wikivoyage • File:Bishkek_historical_museum.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/23/Bishkek_historical_museum.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Hux • File:Bishkek_square.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b1/Bishkek_square.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Con- tributors: The towering metropolis of Bishkek Original artist: Gilad Rom from Israel • File:E7859-Korday-entering-KG.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/19/E7859-Korday-entering-KG. jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E7870-Dordoy-laghman.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/74/E7870-Dordoy-laghman.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E7913-Bishkek2-interior.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/27/E7913-Bishkek2-interior.jpg Li- cense: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E7920-Dordoy-Bazaar-electronics.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ea/ E7920-Dordoy-Bazaar-electronics.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E7924-Dordoy-naan.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/24/E7924-Dordoy-naan.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E8175-Tamchy-beach.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/51/E8175-Tamchy-beach.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E8211-Tamchy-lonely-tree.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/06/E8211-Tamchy-lonely-tree.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E8286-Tamchy-mosque.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/E8286-Tamchy-mosque.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E8287-Tamchy-drugstore.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/45/E8287-Tamchy-drugstore.jpg Li- cense: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E8303-Tamchy-skyline.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/22/E8303-Tamchy-skyline.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:E8305-Kosh-Kol-sea-buckthorn.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6d/ E8305-Kosh-Kol-sea-buckthorn.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vmenkov • File:Issyk_Kul_beach.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/87/Issyk_Kul_beach.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: User:Robert-Antonio • File:Karakol_mountain_view.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6d/Karakol_mountain_view.jpg Li- cense: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Robert-Antonio • File:Kumys-bottle.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1b/Kumys-bottle.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Con- tributors: Own work Original artist: A.Savin (Wikimedia Commons · WikiPhotoSpace) • File:Kyrgyzstan_regions_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/81/Kyrgyzstan_regions_map.png Li- cense: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work based on the UN map Original artist: Peter Fitzgerald • File:LocationKyrgyzstan.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/da/LocationKyrgyzstan.png License: Public domain Contributors: ? Original artist: ? • File:Map_mag.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Map_mag.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Designer: FatCow Web Hosting (Transferred by TarzanASG) Original artist: The original uploader was Mey2008 at German Wikipedia • File:Naryn_River.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7b/Naryn_River.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contribu- tors: originally posted to Flickr as Naryn River Original artist: revolution cycle • File:Osh_7.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/05/Osh_7.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Peter in s • File:Osh_Bazar.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/be/Osh_Bazar.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: originally posted to Flickr as Osh Bazar Original artist: Ben Paarmann • File:Song-Köl.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/45/Song-K%C3%B6l.jpg License: CC BY 2.5 Contribu- tors: Own work Original artist: Ondřej Žváček • File:View_of_Osh.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/67/View_of_Osh.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Con- tributors: originally posted to Flickr as IMG_0639 Original artist: Paul

18.7.3 Content license

• Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0