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Ingredient Directory Bio-derived and sustainable Ebook 2019 The Definitive Peer-Reviewed Cosmetic Science Resource Sustainability and the Growth of Naturals Ingredient Rooted Directory in Nature • Sustainable • Bio-based • Natural/organic Bio-derived • COSMOS/Ecocert and Sustainable • Botanicals Formulas Beginner’s Guide to Natural/Organic Free Ebook Sponsored By: Market Intelligence | C&T ® KEY POINTS • Brands seeking opportunities for growth can leverage the rising consumer sensibility toward sustainability. • This free resource was developed to inspire you to find your own angle on sustainable and bio-derived products. How Bio-derived Became Sustainable think it is clear that the drive for sustainability stemmed from an interest in self- Rachel L. Grabenhofer preservation amid the fast consumption of bio-derived, natural resources—and Cosmetics & Toiletries the realization that these are limited. For years, the cosmetics industry has catered to consumers hungry for natural innovations. Somewhere along the lines, it became evident that new approaches were necessary to ensure a steady supply chain. Different agricul- tural practices and biotechnologies, such as stem cell cultures, emerged, and this has extendedI into holistic and authentic considerations for the people along the supply chain (fair trade/traceability), places (biodiversity) and greater good (eco-friendly); which, as it turns out, are favored even more by consumers. Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2019 Allured Business Media. 2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.acme-hardesty.com 2019 Bio-derived and Sustainable E-book Sustainability Sells claims when making their purchasing decisions, with an eye toward sustainability, among other According to a report1 from Global Cosmet- factors,” stated the report. “Brands looking for ics Industry, between 2017 to 2018, Nielsen new opportunities for growth in this space can compared the performance of sustaina bility leverage the rising consumer sensibility toward claims across three categories: chocolate, cof- sustaina bility to attract new consumers and ulti- fee and bath products, with the goal of under- mately increase sales.” standing how consumers feel about various sustaina bility factors. Moving Within all three categories, the dollar sales of items with specific claims related to sustain- Sustainability Forward ability grew at least twice as fast as the aver- While there’s always room for improve- aged growth of the three categories combined. ment, another study2 published in the Journal of Also during that time, the overall bath products Cleaner Production gave the cosmetics industry category sales grew 1%, while sustainable bath credit for moving sustaina bility forward. Accord- product sales grew 14%. Nielsen attributed this ing researchers Marto, et al., from the University rise to environmental claims and the presence of Lisbon, Portugal, sustaina bility in the cosmet- of minerals, organic ingredients and essential ics industry has received growing interest not oils in the products; the essential oil-containing only from consumers, but also industry, academ- products notably growing 18 times faster than ics and other organiza tions. the general category. The drivers identified for sustainability in “Overall, we can conclude that bath prod- cosmetics include intensifying concerns over uct shoppers are paying attention to product cosmetics safety; impact on the environment, 2019 Bio-derived and Sustainable E-book www.acme-hardesty.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 3 How Bio-derived Became Sustainable i.e., deforestation; and fair trade/social effects. As more important to business, as it is fundamen- such, the industry has made efforts to formulate tal to define indicators and use specific tools with more sustainable ingredient alternatives—al- to measure, monitor and evaluate sustainable though the authors note that lacking performance, standards. The entire cosmetics supply chain instabilities and aesthetic challenges have been can have an impact on sustaina bility, so it is limiting factors. Still, product developers continue important to consider and not neglect all steps to iterate next-generation solutions to make a in the lifecycle of a product—from the initial sustainable future a reality. design and sourcing of raw materials, through Marto’s review2 gives an overview of the larger manufact uring, packaging, distribution, con- relationship between sustaina bility and the cos- sumer use, and the disposal or post-consumer metics industry, including where the challenges use phase. lie, but also the reason(s) for progress in sustain- In relation, many ingredient suppliers and ability: for one, the fact that we’re talking about it. manufacturers have devised apps and other systems to trace ingredient sourcing to ensure it Sustainability Survey is carried out sustainably. And, from a packag- For the review, the authors examined a body ing perspective, consider how many types of of literature on the design and formulation of recyclable and biodegradable packaging have cosmetics to consider the impact of the different hit commercial shelves. phases of a cosmetic’s product development cycle Sustainable ingredients: Another heavily on its sustaina bility. Also considered were formu- focused area, as demonstrated at any cosmetics lating challenges and the structure and function of tradeshow today, or all over Cosmetics & Toilet- raw materials in relation to their sustaina bility. ries news, is, of course, sustainable ingredients. Various means of data collection and analysis What does this mean? Interpre tations vary, were outlined and included reviews of: journal ar- which is why the authors note that his term ticles, reports, books and book sections, websites, has no single, universal definition but typically theses and patents. Notably, Cosmetics & Toiletries refers to a product with environm entally prefer- came out on top as the resource having published able attributes. It also is typically designated the most on sustaina bility in cosmetics. for ingredients designed with ethical, social and economic responsi bility in mind. Multiple Dimensions “While it is not possible to officially label a The analysis revealed cosmetics sustaina bility cosmetic product as ‘sustain able,’ there are fair is, of course, a complex and multifaceted issue trade labels, eco-labels and sustainability and that cannot be evaluated based on a single aspect corporate social responsi bility (CSR) indexes but instead using an integrated assessment about that, in this context, tend to draw nearer to the the environm ental, social and economical dimen- classifi cation of what a sustainable cosmetic is,” sions. Some notable moves by the industry were writes Marto. identified; following are select examples. Sustainable transport: One last factor Sustaina bility assessment: For the cosmet- worth mentioning that is of rising interest to ics industry, sustainability metrics are becoming the cosmetics industry is the sustainable trans- 4 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com www.acme-hardesty.com 2019 Bio-derived and Sustainable E-book port of ingredients, materials, packaging and final products. Waterless formulations and concentrates provide prime examples; not only do they save on cost, but they reduce carbon emissions and lower a company’s footprint. The review article continued for some 20 pages, with discussions on specific core ingredient categories including emollients, exfoliators, surfactants and polymers, as well as solvents, colorants, fragrances, UV filters, preserva tives, pH adjusters, chelating agents and antioxidants. Check out the Journal of Cleaner Production for more information; in Rachel L. Grabenhofer the meantime, know that our industry is driving progress to C&T Managing Editor make a difference. Bio-derived and Sustainable Ebook 2019 BIO-DERIVED AND SUSTAINABLE E-BOOK Growing interest from consumers in sustainably sourced, bio-derived natural products led us to the ebook CONTENTS you see before you. Sponsored by Acme-Hardesty, the free Bio-derived and Sustainable Ebook is a collection of articles, 2 How Bio-derived ingredients and formulas to help you gain a footing in this Became Sustainable R. Grabenhofer growing market space. As stated, sustainability in cosmetics is a multi-dimen- sional issue, so here we provide articles on a broad range of 8 Sustainability and the topics relevant to formulating in this space. These include: Growth of Naturals A. Mitarotonda, Ph.D. the rising interest in natural products, and how this has shifted toward those that are organic and sustainable; a beginner’s guide to formulating natural and organic prod- 13 Protecting Cosmetic Formulations ucts; and a look at natural and sustainable formulating for with Citrus Power Acme Hardesty in partnership with hair care. Sharon Laboratories In addition, the ingredient directory features products drawn from our free Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference Preserving the Impossible: Challenging (CBR) that are denoted as natural, bio-based, bio-derived, 15 Natural-based Formulations sustainable, eco-friendly, fair trade, COSMOS/Ecocert, Acme Hardesty in partnership with botanical, vegan and/or of plant/botanical, mineral and Sharon Laboratories fermented origin. Finally, bio-derived and sustainable formula prototypes 17 Quatin–A Novel Bio-based Conditioning are provided by Acme-Hardesty. These range from an Anhy- Polymer drous Liquid Soap and Moldable Cleansing Shower Dough, Acme Hardesty in partnership
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