Cumbria & the Lakes

CUMBRIA & THE LAKES 589 Windermere Circle Rydal Mount Carlisle Grizedale Forest Castlerigg Stone Langdale Brantwood Derwent Water AREA : 2629 SQ MILES 2629 SQ MILES : AREA ( p599 ) Derwent Derwent . ( p606 ) Rydal Mount ( p612 ) ( p602 ) ( p603 ) ( p593 ) or p593 ( La’al Ratty La’al ( p602 ) and Carlisle Castle Castle Carlisle ( p604 ) Windermere walls of Brantwood of Water Stone Circle Castlerigg Grizedale Forest Grizedale Langdale Valley Gazing out at the English frontier from the of landmarks Exploring the literary cruise on the lakes a leisurely Taking past at Pondering Britain’s mysterious of the wild wooden sculptures Discovering Drinking in the dramatic views from the POPULATION: 487,607 487,607 POPULATION:

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

The only drawback to such a beautiful region is its inevitable popularity, and on busy sum- is its inevitable drawback to such a beautiful region only The Tucked away on England’s northwestern frontier overlooking the Scottish Borders, Cumbria away on England’s northwestern Cumbria the Scottish Borders, frontier overlooking Tucked from the lush Eden and varied landscapes in Britain, stretching has one of the most dramatic of the Lake in the east across the peaks and valleys District windswept all the way to the Valley and Westmor- from the old districts Formed of Cumberland shore. coastline along its western land in 1974, this compact home of British hill walking: county is best known as the spiritual between its crammed hikes are highest peaks and most challenging many of the country’s borders, actingmagnet for rock climbers, mountain bikers as a and weekend walkers alike. villages, old market tradition: grey-slate with history and over that’s brimming It’s also a region while crumbling huddle in the shadow of snow-capped mountains, towns and country houses across the rolling fells. littered and slate-topped Lakelandcastles, lonely farmsteads inns are poet in you, and you’ll certainly to bring out the guaranteed is one place that’s be inCumbria escape for generations of writers, of England has been a favourite good company: this corner in the early 19th century. here since the first Romantic poets arrived artists ever and painters like half of Britain has decided to take to the hills around the Central mer weekends it can feel many have autumn and you might find you Lakes; late but time your visit for early spring or It’s worth taking some of of the county’s classic trails all to your self. the time to explore Words- Castle, battlements of Carlisle sights, too, including the redbrick less-visited Cumbria’s worth’s train journey from Ravenglass boyhood home in Cockermouth and the classic steam to Eskdale aboard Cumbria & the Lakes Lakes & the Cumbria © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 588 CUMBRIA & THE LAKES a networkof footpaths andwalkingtrails, ite hiking spots. Theregion is covered by The Districtisoneof favour-Lake Britain’s WALKING Keswick andCarlisle. cular CumbriaCycleWayaroundUlverston, District,andthe259-milecir-northern Lake (C2C) fromWhitehaven toNewcastleviathe CycleRoute toSea include the140-mileSea all thebesttraffic-free routes. Marked trails Cumbriacyclingmapshowing stock auseful are dotted acrosstheregion, andtouristoffices bikingonthefells.mountain Cycle-hire shops Cycling ispopularin Cumbria, especially CYCLING 590

Activities New Abbey Whitehaven Locharbriggs CUMBRIA &THELAKES A75 A711 Workington A76 Parton St Bees UBI H AE • Atvte CUMBRIA &THELAKES••Activities Sellafield Cleator Moor Nuclear Solway Plant Firth A710 Dumfries Maryport Irish Sea A701 A595 Lowca Lochmaben A596 Muncaster Ravenglass Holmrook Moresby Castle Caerlaverock Egremont A709 Whitbeck Castle Frizington Seascale Bootle Silloth Whicham Gosforth Cockermouth Crosby Aspatria A595 Crummock Ennerdale Ecclefechan Wastwater A74 Water Water Barrow-in- A595 Lane End Millom Furness Broad Oak A75 in-Furness Lockerbie Waverton Foxfield Dalton- M74 Roosecote National Park Micklethwaite Derwent Boot A591 in-Furness Broughton- Water Keswick District

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Muker s Litton A684 Swaledale Pennines Barnard Castle Wensleydale YORKSHIRE The Bowes NORTH Kettlewell DURHAM 2ºW Grassington Wolsingham Conistone Corbridge Aysgarth . 55ºN A68 Reeth A Brigantes BaggageCouriers Brigantes .pikedaw.freeserve.co.uk/walks). through Ullswater, Wasdale, Kendal andtheEasternLakes. through Ullswater,Wasdale,Kendal companywithroutes Smallwalking-holiday .com; Kendal) fortheYHA. trips hiking Specialistcompanythatprovides .cloudberry.co.uk; Kendal) ing archery,climbing,sailingandcyclingtours. companyoffer- Multi-activity .rdmh.co.uk; Haverthwaite) Sherpa Van horse lonelyplanet.com and Derwent Water all offer ferry services, and Derwent Water all offer ferry services, Windermere, Coniston Water, Ullswater BOAT trains andferries. forbuses, with timetables stock thefree provides travel information.Touristoffices Traveline Getting Around trains 3½hours. coaches fromLondontake about6½hours, hours). TobothWindermere andCarlisle, in-Furness (2½hours) andWindermere (2¼ Airport viaPreston toBarrow- andLancaster There’s adirect raillinkfromManchester Getting There&Away DeepMountainHigh River Knobbly Stick climbing,ghyllscramblingandcanoeing. orienteering, Outdoorscentre specialisinginhillwalking, Newby Bridge) Points High packages. Cumbrian of self-guided providerwithaselection Well-organised walking-holiday Contours Cloudberry Holidays provided bymanycompanies. Tailor-made holidaysandspecialist tours are Tours able fromtouristoffices. brochurewhich alsopublishesauseful avail- mere, DerwentWater andConiston. ously populartoo,especiallyaroundWinder- river canyoning). and coasteering scrambling (acrossbetween fell running,andnewervariantssuch asghyll ing andquadbikingtothetraditionalsportof tivities rangingfromrockclimbing,orienteer- Cumbria isahaven foradrenaline-fuelled ac- OTHER ACTIVITIES Check outwww.lakedistrictoutdoors.co.uk, Sailing, kayakingandwindsurfingare obvi-

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boats and minibuses between Windermere, between boats andminibuses rama of humpbacked razorblade mountains, land orthe French pano- Alps– asweeping as breathtaking asanyyou’llfindinSwitzer- 19th century.The landscapeof is theLakes inthe muse theirpoetic famously sought Coleridge andtheirRomanticcompatriots beautiful District,whereLake Wordsworth, England canmeasure uptotheoutlandishly For sheer scenicsplendour,few placesin LAKE DISTRICT Haverthwaite ( Steam Railway p594 ). ( Railway p610 ) andtheAmbleside/Bownessto the region, includingtheRavenglass &Eskdale steam railwayschugseveral theirwayaround branch spurfromOxenholme toWindermere, Aside fromtheCumbrianCoastLineand TRAIN hensive timetables. Ambleside andConiston. linkingKendal,iston Rambler), Windermere, stops atallthemaintowns,andbus505(Con- which andCarlisle, Lancaster Link) between includingbus555/556,(Lakes- county buses, Lakes. andCentral ern, Eastern andtheWest- Barrow bria, includingCarlisle, Dayrider tickets tovariousdistrictsinCum- inCumbria. There aretravel also onservices days£8.50/19/26.50)allowsunlimited seven coachbus.com) The mainoperatoris BUS Keswick fordetails. sections the Windermere &Bowness,Conistonand Water; cyclists andhikers are welcome. See Esthwaite Water, GrizedaleandConiston Shuttle Cross-Lakes providing time-saving linksforwalkers. The it gives. of thejoy half-conscious And seems cheek, And fromthesky:itbeatsagainstmy from theclouds That blowsfromthegreen fieldsand Oh there isblessinginthisgentle breeze The free cross- Stagecoach useful operates several William Wordsworth, William Wordsworth, . TheExplorer ticket (one/four/ Lakesrider ( % 015394-45161) booklethascompre- Stagecoach The Prelude runsshuttle

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CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES formation, withvalleys,ridges andlakes ra- Districtisshaped star The Lake inarough Orientation of oneWilliamWordsworth. Cottage andRydalMount,bothformerhomes of Furness totheliterary landmarksof Dove mines aroundHonister andtheruinedabbey history andculture, fromtheabandonedslate region thanfineviews –it’salsopacked with great outdoors, butthere’s much more tothis country’s favourite placesforsavouring the Districtisoneofsurprising thattheLake the such awealthof naturalriches, it’shardly natural lakes anywhere inEngland.With andsomeof tarns thelargestmountainous crags andscree-covered hillsides,strewn with 592 LAKE DISTRICT St Bees A595 Whitehaven Parton Lowca AEDSRC • Oinain ••Orientation LAKE DISTRICT Moresby Maryport Cleator A596 Irish Workington Sellafield Moor Sea Nuclear Plant Egremont Seascale Gosforth Muncaster Holmrook Castle Ennerdale Water A66 Ravenglass

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( % 015394-46601; ( % Lakeland Lakeland 46601; trix trix Potter [email protected]; GlebeRd; [email protected]; Bridge, a milefromtheaquarium. (see p594 ), or there are regular toNewby buses to arrive isbyboatfromBowness orAmbleside ottersmischievous steal theshow.Thebest way char anddivingducks.As the usual,though, thelakebed,through complete withpike, Arctic includinganunderwaterwater tunnel habitats, southern end,re-creates more than30fresh- £7; admission NewbyBridge; Lakeside, .aquariumofthelakes.co.uk; themostardentfan. even bilia tosatisfy Potter-themeda shop withenough memora- and MrMcGregor’s greenhouse, andthere’s life inside,includingPeter garden Rabbit’s scenes fromPotter’s booksare to brought of camera-totingJapanese tourists.Various of allages, aswellanastonishing number Potter enthusiasts always packed withBeatrix £6/3; boats (£5.50)fromJulytoSeptember. zons of adaptation in theBBC Flint’shouseboat which doubled asCaptain trix Potter’s rowingboatandthe collectionof vessels includingBea- marvellous steamboat Willies,witha closet will delight 10.30am-4.30pmApr-Jun5pm Jul–mid-Sep, &mid-Sep–Nov) Rd;admission£3.50; www.steamboat.co.uk; Rayrigg Arts andCraftsmovement isalsoondisplay. collection of antiquesandfurniture fromthe some gorgeous 18th-centuryoakpanelling.A trademark designs,includingDelfttilesand wealthy brewer, manyof andcontains his Scottinthe19thcenturyfora Baillie Hugh of wasdesignedbyMackay space. Thehouse by itssimple,elegantarchitecture andsense the ArtsandCraftsmovement, distinguished Feb, Nov&Dec) Mar, .org.uk; admission£5.45; House &Crafts Blackwell Arts Sights offices Tourist Post office Library 5pm Tue, 9am-1pmSat)Internetaccess. Thu&Fri, 9.30am-5.30pm Sun Apr-Oct, hoursvaryinwinter) 9.30am-5.30pm SunApr-Oct, St; internetaccessper10min£1; ( Nov-Mar); 10am-4pmFri-Sun 5.30pm Easter-Oct, % h oftheLakes Aquarium Tucked Road,the awayoff Lake The 46499; [email protected]; Victoria 46499; [email protected]; Victoria h . The museum offers. Themuseum lake tripsonvintage 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-5pmNov-Mar) 9am-6pm Apr-Oct, ( Windermere Steamboat Museum Steamboat Windermere % 10am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4.30pm Oct-Mar) 10am-5.30pm Apr-Sep,

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CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES Cruise runstoAmbleside(£5.50return,Cruise half- back (£7.60return, hourly),whiletheRed Pier. TheYellow and runstoLakeside Cruise colour-coded departfromBowness cruises beauties datingbacktothe1930s.Regular modern launches andacoupleof period .windermere-lakecruises.co.uk) gest earners. quicklybecameoneofcruises thetown’sbig- was launched onthelake in1845,andlake its waters. Thefirst steam ferry passenger copper andslate were on acommonsight century cargo shipscarryingcoal,lumber, andintheearly19th ficially apublichighway, Somewhat bizarrely, Windermere Lake isof- Activities 594 Ambleside To WINDERMERE &BOWNESS Aquarium ofthe Lakes Cruises Lake Windermere To Lakeside&The Belle Isle AEDSRC • Wnemr ons ••Windermere &Bowness LAKE DISTRICT 19 Same Scaleas Main Map

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newly openedboutiqueB&Bisstreets ahead washed hostel stands inprivatewashed hostel groundsand stands ite, located insideasolidgrey-stone terraced .co.uk; s/dfrom£40/60; Rd; d midweek from £70, weekends £110; Rd; dmidweekfrom£70,weekends Lake Rd;d£54-74; Lake College Rd;d£40-48; cramped, basic and rather spartan backpack- cramped, basicandratherspartan St;dm£13.50; High .lakedistrictbackpackers.co.uk; Lodge Backpackers District Lake BUDGET Sleeping Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com TV, abstract artandagroovy floating bed. TV, futuristic beautythatcomes withwidescreen style, fromsuper-frilly four-poster suites toa have converted been intheirownunique townhouse ous roomsaround thedetached of theotherhotels aroundWindermere. Vari- won’tdisappoint. certainly tle outof theordinary,thisfunkylittlegem beds. Ifyou’re lookingforsomethingalit- bychequerboardoffset floors andcast-iron citrus colours, blues fairypinksandduck-egg bedspreads andmagnoliawalls,here it’sall B&B decorated withreal flair–forget flowery B&B norm. as impressive, they’re still acutabove the theroomsaren’tcornicing; though allquite full of polished periodfurniture andoriginal is the wood-panelledfoyer,andhouse streams stained-glass windowsinto through signs of thesplendourof yesteryear. Light shows certainly thisgrandmanorhouse Riggs, of theVictorianindustrialmagnate John and homemadepancakes. breakfast of dry-cured bacon,Manx kippers buttherealsight, drawhere isthegargantuan and understated, withnaryafloralpattern in alongCollege Rd.Theroomsarehouse comfy Archway MIDRANGE free pick-upifyouphoneahead. andoffersshop. It’s2milesfromthestation, ing roomforhikinggear andawell-stocked offers roomy,moderndorms,aswelladry- atothertimes; book ahead Lane,Troutbeck;dm£13.95; .org.uk; Bridge walking tours canbearranged onsite. Cyclingand nearthetrainstation. house ers, intoaconverted squeezed slate-roofed Windermere YHAHostel Windermere 21 The Lakes 21 The Coach House Hotel Applegarth

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% ( % % 44954; 4 High St;mains £11-17; 44954; 4High 88260; Main Rd;mains£8-20; 88260; Main 42522; BirchSt;mainsfrom£16; 42793; 2AshSt;mains£11-25; ( % 31922; www.thesamling.com;

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) CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES 9am-12.30pm Sat) h Post office Library Laundrette Kendal Information of thebestartscomplexes inthecounty. andone withsomeexcellentmuseums Lakes, the maincommercialcentre intheSouthern cloth andwooltrades,thetownremains Ages, Kendal wasrenowned asacentre forthe walkers District. DuringtheMiddle intheLake its wayintothebackpacksof manyseasoned on theirascentof Everest in1953,andstillfinds EdmundHillaryandTensingsustained Norgay mintcake, apeppermint-flavoured barthat practically synonymouswithitssupersweet The sturdy,grey-slate townof Kendal is % KENDAL Edinburgh. to Saturday,fouronSunday)Glasgowor 3½ hours, to10timesdailyMonday eight dal, which connectsLondonEuston(£106.50, holme (£3.50,30minutes, hourly),nearKen- Windermere isonthebranch linefromOxen- TRAIN mere, BownessandKendal. Grasmere, Winder- Ambleside,Brockhole, urday, sixonSunday)viaAmbleside. iston (40minutes, dailyMondaytoSat- eight Saturday, withfive direct onSunday. buses utes). There are dailyMondayto 10to12buses Grasmere (30minutes) andKeswick (50min- before continuingtoAmbleside(20minutes), 596 & Fri, 9.30am-1pmThu,9am-4pmSat,noon-4pmSun) & Fri, hr £2; The open-topped, half-hourly 599buslinks The open-topped,half-hourly Bus 505travels fromWindermere toCon- 185, weekends £115-220; 185, weekends Drunken DuckInn WORTH THETRIP unusual prints and bespoke fabrics.unusual prints andbespoke radios,and theupstairsrooms are with speciallittletouchessuchasRoberts alldelightful, packed inventive dishes–pigeon marinated inliquorice,perhaps, orvenison withchestnut polenta– The award-winningcountry restaurant (mains £15to£23)offers a menustuffed withboldand bar.heads andperiodposters, upbehindtheslate-topped and ahugealeblackboardischalked ingly, isthemainbar,where contemporary leather chairssithappilyalongsidestuffed stags’ Duck,unsurpris- oftheDrunken innandathoroughly moderngastropub.TheLakeland heart 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pmSat&Sun) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 01539 /pop27,545 h AEDSRC • Kna ••Kendal LAKE DISTRICT ( % 9.30am-5.30pm Mon&Tue, 9.30am-7pmWed (75 Stricklandgate; (75Stricklandgate; 773520; Stricklandgate; internetaccessper 773520; Stricklandgate; ( %

733754; Blackhall Rd; 733754; Blackhall ( % pn h 015394-36347; www.drunkenduckinn.co.uk; Barngates,Ambleside;rweekdays£90- 015394-36347; www.drunkenduckinn.co.uk; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, ) This much-fêted placeisagorgeous crossbetweenatraditional Oct, 10.30am-4pmMon-SatNov-Mar) Oct, hall.org.uk; admission£4.75; 10am-4pm Sun Easter-Oct) Insidethetownhall. 10am-4pm SunEaster-Oct) .gov.uk; Highgate; of of creates author thestudyof ArthurRansome, mining andbobbin-making. Oneroomre- exhibits onlocalindustriessuch asspinning, ings, includinganEdwardianstreet scene,and the region’s pastusingreconstructed build- 10.30am-4pmMon-SatNov-Mar) Mon-Sat Apr-Oct, admission£3.75; .lakelandmuseum.org.uk; (see p602 ) andlocalartistGeorge Romney. landscapes, includingworkbyJohn Ruskin and 19th-centuryportraitsLakeland the museum. reconstructed hasbeen former office inside was honorarycuratorfrom1945to1974;his fred of Wainwright, of animals.Al- fossilsandspookystuffed also alarge withlots naturalhistorysection, plores thehistoryof Kendal There’s Castle. displays localarchaeological findsandex- 10.30am-4pmMon-SatFeb, Nov&Dec) Sat Apr-Oct, Mar, .uk; StationRd;admission£2.70; Museum Kendal Sights office Tourist hurst-kendal.co.uk; 8SouthRd;s/tw/dfrom£25/50/52; hurst-kendal.co.uk; to make sure it’sopen. available byadvancebooking,sophoneahead located fortheBrewery ArtsCentre. It’sonly along themainstreet Kendal, through handily A decenthostel insideawhitewashed house dm£17.50; Highgate; YHA Kendal Sleeping Lyndhurst GuestHouse The The Swallows andAmazons Abbot Hall Art Gallery Gallery Abbot HallArt Museum of Lakeland Life ofLakeland Museum

( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % ( % h

0870 770 5893; [email protected]; 118 0870 7705893;[email protected]; ( % 725758; kendaltic@southlakeland h 9am-5pm Mon-SatNov-Easter, 721374; www.kendalmuseum.org Easter-Oct by advance booking; by advancebooking; Easter-Oct h Pictorial Guide Pictorial 10.30am-5pm Mon-SatApr- h (

( % . % focuses on18th- focuses 10.30am-5.30pm Mon- 723819; www.lynd 722464; www.abbot

( % h 722464; www 10.30am-5pm retraces fame, n i

) ) homemade cakes andorganic teas to follow. chillis,sandwiches, soupsandquiches, with bytheriver, selling vegetarian foodserved middle of town,thisblack-and-white 18th- terside; lunches£4-8; and peach. roomsdecorated inshadesoffluffy cream easy reach of centralKendal, offering eight Another reliable andwelcomingB&Bwithin lonelyplanet.com vegetable tian. hearty mains such asGrizedalevenison and menufeaturingevening crispypizzas and wiches duringtheday,anda more upmarket drinks, wrapsandsand- serves Arts Centre h Corsage.the Queen’s Knave or ity chocolate drinks–trytheScurvy lunches, creamploughman’s teas andspecial- on thegroundfloor;upstairs thecaféserves teen varietiesof Kendal mintcake are sold come true. Handmade chocolates andump- Kendal tearoom isachocoholic’s dream latehouse.co.uk; 54BranthwaiteBrow;lunches£2-6) House 1657 Chocolate Eating with boozeandcolddrinks. small sofa areas andhonestyfridges stocked up deluxe roomsare with worththeextraexpense, The rics, tasteful tonesandplasma-screen TVs. fab range of bedroomskitted outinnaturalfab- B&B isthebestoptionincentralKendal, witha 40 Greenside; s£45-75,d£70-90; across therollingparkland. boastfour-posterseveral bedsandviews rated roomsare large and andcomfortable, and polishedmirrors; thetraditionallydeco- hotel, allgleamingantiques,huge fireplaces south of Kendal. It’saclassiccountry-house private grounds andwoodlandafew miles onmorerun mansion,set than4hectares of gether grander,headforthisgloriousfamily- Heaves; s/dfrom£40/60; much periodcharacter around. butthere’sand bracket-balanced not TVs, ofthe usualselection pinefurniture, palewalls TheB&Bbedroomscomewith modernised. first thoroughly doctor,butinsideit’sbeen wasbuiltforKendal’scentury townhouse s/d£39/58; .co.uk; 128Highgate; Green Room&Vats Bar Green Highgate Hotel Highgate Beech House Hotel Heaves Waterside Wholefoods Waterside from 10amMon-Sat) (

( LAKE DISTRICT ••AroundKendal LAKEDISTRICT h % 720385; www.beechhouse-kendal.co.uk; 720385; www.beechhouse-kendal.co.uk;

Thecafé-bar at the Brewery ( pn % 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) 560396; www.heaveshotel.co.uk;

(

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( (pizzas from£8,mains£8-14; % pn Forsomethingalto- ) pn 740702; www.thechoco 729743; Kent View,Wa- 729743; Kent This wonderful This wonderful ) Right inthe Right ) Great This eryarts.co.uk) Saturday. hour fromMonday to past the castle every Ambleside, Windermere and Kendal runs along theA590.Bus 555/556fromGrasmere, for itselegantElizabethaninterior. members of thefamilyover thecenturies,and traits andfinefurniture, collected byvarious renowned foritscollectionof antiques,por- family formore than700years. Thecastle is 1.30-5.30pm Sun-Thu Apr-Oct) sion £6.20,gardensonly£4; South of Kendal is Sizergh Castle AROUND KENDAL Euston (£107,fourhours). (£14.80,onehour)andLondon from Carlisle 2 milessouthof town,withhourlytrains ermere (£3,15minutes) fromOxenholme, Kendal isonthebranch station linetoWind- TRAIN Sunday). (hourly MondaytoSaturday,three timeson Grange, NewbyBridge, Ulverston andBarrow Ambleside. BusX35travels alongthecoastto minutes) viaWindermere, Hawkshead and Kendal toConiston(bus505;onehour10 daily). There are twodailyreturn from buses Grasmere andKeswick (10to12times stops atKendal, Windermere, Ambleside, busisthe555/556,whichThe mostuseful BUS Getting There&Around theatre, danceandlive music. brace of cinemas,andregular programmesof Brewery Entertainment the toplevel. on the1stfloorandaprivate partyroomon bar onthegroundfloor,afusionrestaurant a splitpersonality, andwine withafunkybeer three-floored café-venue-bar hassomethingof Sat) razoredge andstrippedwood. tables contemporarybright, diningroomfilledwith classic French andmodernBritish foodina isthetopplacetoeatintown,serving taurant h Eclectic New Moon Sizergh Castle is3.5milessouth ofSizergh Castle Kendal Eclecticbyname,eclecticnature; this lunch &dinnerTue-Sat)

Arts Centre Centre Arts

( Anexcellentartscentre housinga % ( 736184; 36 Kirkland; mains£10-16; 736184; 36Kirkland; % 729254; 129 Highgate; mains£9-15; 729254; 129Highgate; ( Sizergh Castle Sizergh % Thisfresh, invitingres- h , homeof theStrickland 725133; Highgate; www.brew 725133; Highgate; gardens 12.30-5.30pm,castle ( %

560070; admis- h 597

Tue- CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES Fri, 9am-12.30pmSat) Fri, ous hikers are classic spoiltforchoice –several waterfall plunging intoanarrowcanyon. Seri- woodland strollup to walks,including the well-known Lakeland Bell. of photosbythelocalphotographerHerbert Dorothy Wordsworth’sscarf,and agallery artefacts includealockof John Ruskin’shair, local-interest exhibits–someof itsunusual Rd; adult£2.50; The Sights office Tourist Post office Library Laundromat Information of themanywalkingtrailsnearby. strength bagbefore sleeping outforone setting gency raingear industrial- orthatall-important where you canstockupwithnewboots,emer- the mainstreet allthewaytocentralsquare, Victorian villasandslate-fronted line houses metre thanalmostanywhere intheLakes. else trekkers, withmore outdoors shopspersquare is abustlinghubfortheregion’s hikers and grey-green fells, thesmalltownof Ambleside mere andbacked byanimpressive panoramaof atthenorthernendofStanding Winder- Lake % AMBLESIDE hour. every roughly Windermere andKendal stopsnearthehall dressed inaprinted dress andamobcap. include agrey lady,ablackdogandpinklady –thespiritsof Hallits manyghosts Levens something outof 17th-century topiarygarden,which lookslike Duke of Wellington.It’salsofamousforits historical connectionstobothNelsonandthe manor builtaroundamid-13th-century Apr–mid-Oct) only £6; 321; www.levenshall.co.uk; house&gardens£9, Five milessouthof Kendal is Hall Levens 598 land.gov.uk; Cross; Market h (keep) tower. Thebeautifullykept has house The townmakes formany anexcellent base Bus 555/556fromGrasmere, Ambleside, 015394 /pop3560 10am-5pm Mon,Wed&Thu,10am-7pmTue &Fri) Armitt Museum Armitt Museum AEDSRC • Abeie ••Ambleside LAKE DISTRICT ( h % ( gardens 10am-5pm,housenoon-5pmSun-Thu , anotherimpressive Elizabethan % 32507; Kelsick Rd;internetaccessperhr£3; 32507; Kelsick ( ( h % % 33267; Market Pl; 33267; Market 10am-5pm) 32231; Kelsick Rd; 32231; Kelsick 32582; www.amblesidetic@southlake- Alice inWonderland,

( % h 31212; www.armitt.com;Rydal Stock GhyllForce isworthalookforits 9am-5pm) h Levens Hall Levens h 9am-5pm Mon- 10am-6pm) , an18m ( andfor %

pele 560

lounge andthehuge industrialkitchen. more spacetobefoundinthewood-floored thankfully,there’spacked tight; inexceedingly verted cottage, butthebunkbedsare Lakeland dependent hostel offers 72bedsinacon- dm£15; lakesbackpackers.co.uk; south of Ambleside. District, inagreat woodylocation3miles National Trust(NT)campsites intheLake per adult/car/tent£4.50/3/5; Low Wray BUDGET Sleeping Cruises ing wall(£3perclimb). skiing andwakeboarding tuitionandaclimb- hours £10/33).Italsooffers water- sailing, hours £30/45)andmotorboats(one/four four hours boats(two/four £10/15),sailing (two/ four hours £6/18),kayaksandcanoes [email protected]) Centre &Activity Low WoodWatersports Activities Pike, Fairfield andDove Crag. 10-mile fromAmbleside,includingthe circuits start splendid olde-worlde rooms. chimney-topped slate roof, ismatched by the of with itsgabledexterior and thehouse, gate, nearAmbleside. Theperiodarchitecture gardensin the hamletofsecluded Clappers- ing Victorian-eravicarage tucked awayin -hotels.co.uk; Clappersgate;d£56-116; in maplesyrup. features authentic Americanpancakes doused Codbedspread),with Cape andthebreakfast flowery Hawaii tomaritimeMaine (complete the roomsare namedafter from USstates, tive placeisasAmericanapplepie. All .co.uk; CompstonRd;dfrom£48; Compston HouseHotel END TOP & MIDRANGE get alittlecrowdedonbusyweekends. water it’svery sports –though popularandcan hub formanyYHA activities,fromwalking to lake, amilesouthof Amblesidetown.It’sthe organised YHAfantastically hostel bythe right [email protected]; Windermere Rd;dm£19.95; Grey Friar Lodge Hotel LodgeHotel Friar Grey Ambleside YHAHostel Ambleside Backpackers Ambleside isalsoonthe route (see p594). route (see Fairfield Horseshoe Fairfield

( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 32810; www.lowwraycampsite.co.uk; sites (

hires rowingboats(one/ % h

( 32305; www.compstonhouse

% ( ( % Easter-Oct) pni viaNab Scar,Heron % n 0870 7705672;amble 33158; www.cumbria 32340; www.english pn ) Thisimagina- Windermere Lake Lake Windermere Oneof three pni ) Thisin- A charm- ) (

% 39441; A ) café serving sandwiches, jacket potatoes and jacket sandwiches, potatoes café serving Compston Rd,thisexcellentB&Bmakes a .co.uk; CompstonRd;d£60-80; Rd; rfrom£90; the road. deli nextdoorandafunkywinebar across filler andblushing cod.There’s alsoagreat tures dishessuch asfruityporker, fell-walker with aquirkytwist–theeclecticmenu fea- emporium offers classicCumbriancooking and plainpinefurniture. furnished withbeige carpets,simplecurtains the windingstairs leadtoachoice of rooms chairswith rattan andwillowarrangements, sive Fromtheneatlobbyfilled placestostay. isoneofhouse Ambleside’smostimpres- Church Walk;r£59-90; lonelyplanet.com upstairs jazzclub andthetown’s cinema; alsorunsan own glazed ‘waterfall’. Zeff’s lively inalight, diningroom withits served h h ofambleside.co.uk; ChurchSt;lunch£5-9,dinner£15-21; andsandwiches. potatoes, fullEnglish breakfasts, jacket able caféserving apple piesmothered withvanillaicecream. lots of homemadecakes, includinghomemade Apple Pie Eating photo print. local waterfall andequippedwithamatching stripped-back bedrooms,allnamedafter a totheand canvasartinthelobbythrough the brownleatherchairs, palepinefloors décor simplyscreams goodtaste, from the fullboutiquemakeover. Thedesigner pn £170-230;elhmail.co.uk; dweekdays£156-210,weekends DVD players andsuperminimaldécor. bedrooms feature bigwhite beds,in-room adorn thebreakfast area, whilethelow-key retro chairs, purplewallsandlaminate floors orlacydoiliesatthisswankylittlegemsauce – ing outforafell-view roomifyoucan. the oddcharacterful extra,butit’sworthhold- have crispwhite bedlinen,countryprintsand great-value Allthetasteful base. bedrooms Zeffirelli’s Gables o Hotel Waterhead Pippins Lodge Lakes Easedale Lodge 10am-9pm) lunch &dinner) )

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This fantastic littlegastronomic Thisfantastic ( % 33679; RydalRd;lunches£3-8) 34734; www.thegables-ambleside.co.uk; 31338; 10 Lake Rd;lunches£4-10) 31338; 10Lake

( % Inventive pizzasandpasta LAKE DISTRICT ••AroundAmbleside LAKEDISTRICT 33845; CompstonRd;pizza £5.50-7.45;

n ( % ) 33240; www.lakeslodge.co.uk; Lake Lake 33240; www.lakeslodge.co.uk; There’s nosignof anyHP ( % This grand half-timbered Thisgrandhalf-timbered ) 32112; www.easedaleambleside 08458-504503; waterhead@ n

) ( Onthecornerof % 31191; www.lucys Asunny Reli- on Market Cross. Rd) climbing gear. £11-18; Shop pair of iceskates; youcan alsowanderaround andpicnicbox,pen, inkstand andhisfavourite ture including andpossessions, Wordsworth’s is packed1850. Thehouse withoriginalfurni- in 1813andremained here until hisdeathin h www.rydalmount.co.uk; admission£5,gardensonly£2.50; Wordsworth moved to Rydal Mount AROUND AMBLESIDE from £14perday. Treks (30 minutes, twicedaily)viaWindermere. to Saturday,sixonSunday),andfromKendal Coniston (35minutes, 12timesdailyMonday Kendal (45minutes). minutes), toWindermere (15minutes) and tember) regularly travels fromGrasmere (20 Bus 555(andbus599fromApriltoSep- Getting There&Around of onEverest,to launch an assault withbranches equipmentshops Compston Rdhasenough Shopping the road. with extrascreens inaconverted church down Restaurant, screen cinemanexttoZeffirelli’s outside terrace. with heartypubmains,goodalesandabusy washed innisthebestpubinAmbleside, Royal Oak Drinking &Entertainment cogsandmachinery. nal millwheels, converted 16th-centurywatermill, withorigi- insidea and thesmartdiningroomishoused ranean flavours withthebestof localproduce, restaurants. Thevariedmenumixes Mediter- and re invented asoneof itself Ambleside’stop fromtheashes hassincerisen Glass House Gordon Ramsay’s cinema tickets andatwo-course meal. the ‘DoubleFeature’ menu(£15.95)includes isafavourite withhikers, andthe Ghyllside Cycles Cinema Zeffirelli’s Rohan From ApriltoOctober, bus505runsfrom Glass House 9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-4pmWed-MonNov&Feb) 9.30am-5pm Mar-Oct,

( ( h % %

( lunch &dinner) 32297; CompstonRd) 31505; CompstonRd)

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% Kitchen Nightmares, Infamouslyfeatured on 33592; TheSlack) 33100; CompstonRd) Gaymer Sports Gaymer hire bikes mountain

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( % % Climber’s Atwo- 33305) 33002; Bike Bike 599 the

CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES houses afascinatingcollectionofhouses letters, [email protected]; dm£15.50; Butharlyp HowYHA Hostel for bookings. lar withwalkers on the C2Croute. Contact ispopu- back in1931.Thesmallstonehouse was thefirst bytheYHA, onepurchased way lovely littlehostel hasareal claimtofame–it HowYHAHostel Thorney BUDGET Sleeping mantic movement. portraits andmanuscriptsrelating totheRo- timed tickets toavoid overcrowding. admission price,andentranceismanaged by guidedtour isincludedinthe A half-hour itcangetplace tovisit,although very busy. by tinylatticedwindows,it’safascinating Covered andilluminated withclimbingroses who were bornhere in1803,1804and1806. eldest children –John, DoraandThomas – later joined bynewwife Mary andhisthree in withhissister Dorothyin1799,andwas .org.uk; adult£5.95; at poems in summer. and ispracticallyoverrun withday-trippers village isvery much onthecoach-tour trail, worth connectionshave theirdrawbacks;the and beloved sister Dorothy.Sadly,theWords- in StOswald’s churchyard withhiswife Mary is nowafamousgingerbread shop;he’sburied atthevillage school,casionally taught which nearby Dove Cottage fornineyears andoc- Lakes. in theCentral Wordsworth lived at tle village of Grasmere isoneof theprettiest with oakwoodsandpeacefulfields,thelit- ofNestled atthebase abroadvalleydotted % GRASMERE at theendof thedrive. Ambleside, Windermere andKendal, stops Grasmere,from ApriltoOctober), between theA591.Bus555(andbus599 bleside, off daughter, whodiedof tuberculosis in1847. inmemoryofplanted withdaffodils hiseldest is the house bedroom andhistop-floor study.Below the book-linedsittingroom,Wordsworth’s 600 ends Dec&Jan; Butharlyp HowYHA Hostel Next door,thenew Wordsworth pennedsomeof hisgreatest is1.5milesnorthwestofThe house Am- 015394 /pop1458 AEDSRC • Gamr ••Grasmere LAKE DISTRICT Dove Cottage Dove pi Dora’s Field h ) Justtothe northof Gras- 9.30am-5.30pm).

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% (dm £13; , which Wordsworth Wordsworth Museum Wordsworth 35544; www.wordsworth h

( % daily Feb-Nov, week- h 0870 7705836; Apr-Oct) He moved moved He This

dens allthewaytolakeshore. Thefour hotel inGrasmere, overlooking private gar- stone-fronted hasthebestviewof house any d£77-99; ViewDrive; grasmere.com; Lake padded chairs andchandeliers. posh vaulted-roof restaurant decked outwith room,anddownstairs there’s every acterise a prints andexpensive soft furnishingschar- wooden beds,tasteful overhauled. Carved the banksof theRiver Rothay,andrecently three-storey Victorianmansion,perched on .uk; Broadgate;d£70-110; chintzy, but it’sexcellentvalueformoney. a private sunlounge. Thedécor’sasmidgen floweryroomsincludingonewith four light, stone’s throwfromDove Cottage, andoffers Trust, thismid-19th-centuryvillaisjusta End; d£64; How FootLodge MIDRANGE &TOPEND 555 stopsattheendof theroad onrequest. andaroundpictureskylights window.Bus andaluxuriouslounge‘Nordic sauna’ litby pendent hostel theA591,boastinga justoff .co.uk; BroadrayneFarm; dm£15.50) and activitytrips. canarrange guidedwalks internet access; staff haslotsofhouse modernrooms,acaféand Rd,this convertedmere Victorian off Easedale of countrybeautieswithprivate lounges and rooms are allindividuallystyled,withacouple Lake View CountryHouse View Lake Hotel Grasmere Hostel Grasmere dale; r£140-210; are theicingon cake. views andaswish vegetarian restaurant bed andfreestanding bath.Stunningfell plete withplasterwork ceiling, lace-draped huge suite oldlibrary,com- inRichardson’s Turkish furniture toa rugsandmahogany from afour-poster roomequippedwith a jumbleofcharacter-filled rooms,ranging poets,thestatelyLakeland housecontains and onceafavourite meetingplaceforthe adventurerand Arctic JohnRichardson, Grasmere. Formerlythehomeofsurgeon away inprivate groundshalfamilefrom country househotel isanutter gem,tucked Lancrigg WORTH THETRIP pn Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( %

( ) OwnedbytheWordsworth 35317; www.lancrigg.co.uk; Ease- % pn

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35277; www.grasmerehotel.co pn ) 35055; www.grasmerehostel This vegetarian-only (

% Agreat littleinde- 35384; www.lakeview ) Animposing pn ) This worth ties – William bought itforhisson worth ties–Williambought This priceypiletradesheavily onitsWords- Les Routiers, andit’shardnottobeswept Les recently scoopedatopnationalawardfrom .co.uk; mains£8-14; Rydal Water;d£170-188,cottageperperson£218; pub ontheA591roadfromGrasmere hasall on thefells. whirlpool baths –idealafter alongday’sslog Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com cobbled streets, whitewashed pubs, arched turesque than Hawkshead, withitshuddleof villagesLakeland don’tcomemuch more pic- % HAWKSHEAD ness (onehour,five dailyApril toOctober). runs fromKendal viaWindermere andBow- Church andDove Cottage. The open-top599 Grasmere (15minutes), viaAmbleside,Rydal The hourly555busrunsfromWindermere to Getting There&Away at willfromEnglandtotheFar East. the tinydiningroom,andmenuwanders areknick-knacks andspottyseats packed into the place. Letter-print tablecloths, porcelain energyup inthesheer andenthusiasmof £11-20; weekends £104). £84, accommodation (doubleroomweekdays ofceilings andabevy real ales.Italsooffers including slate-fronted fireplaces, oak-beamed the trappingsof inn, Lakeland aquintessential recipeto thesame since1854. pinnies andthegingerbread made hasbeen cake shop, where theladiesstilldress infrilly leave Grasmere withoutvisitingthisclassic gingerbread £5.25; www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk; ChurchStile;6piecesof mains bynight. with amenuof pizzas,fishandveggie-friendly riverside ameancream cafédoes tea byday, zas £6-9; Rowan Tree Eating cottage withlakeas welladetached views. well-worn armchairs andburnished furniture, rambling roomsfilledwithperiodtrinkets, withplentyof initsownright, place tostay Willie, andoften here stayed –butit’salovely o Shop Nelson’sGingerbread Sarah Travellers Rest Inn Rest Travellers MossHouse White 015394 /pop1640 h h lunch &dinnerWed-Sun) Jumble Room

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( Thispeach-coloured % 35295; www.whitemoss.com; 35604; www.lakedistrictinns 35188; LangdaleRd;mains This boho bistro LAKE DISTRICT ••Hawkshead LAKEDISTRICT

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open allweekinOct) Sq; admission£3.60; Main St;dlodge/mainhouse£70/80; Main museum is housed intheoldoffices of ishoused Bea- museum Potter collection.The from theNT’sBeatrix with anannuallychanging exhibitiondrawn trations fromtheauthor’schildren’s books, feit of china, cushionsand antiqueclocks. decorated inclassic countrystyle,with asur- and five more lodge. in thedetached Allare green, withsix plush roomsinthe mainhouse inBritishracingII–listed Georgian house are onthecosyside,butvery atmospheric. one of Hawkshead’s narrowlanes;the rooms old cob-walled cottage istucked awaydown John whileattending Hawkshead School. The inwhich helodgedthe house withhisbrother in Wordsworth experience,youcouldstay St;s£45,d£58-66; .co.uk; Wordsworth shuttle andbus505/506bothpass nearby. on theroadtoNewbyBridge; thecross-lakes crowned byanornate cupola. It’samilesouth fine Regency withitsoriginalstaircase house yha.org.uk; dm£13.95; Hawkshead YHAHostel Sleeping &Eating is bytimedticket. trix’s husband,solicitorWilliamHeelis. Entry can visittheoldheadmaster’s study. hisname)andupstairs you William carved (including adeskinwhichyoung naughty much ofstill contains itsoriginalfurniture at Hawkshead. Theground-floor classroom attheagewriting hisfirst of poetry 14while ence andcontemporary literature –hebegan andGreek), aswellmathematics,sci- Latin traditional classicalcurriculum(especially Here Wordsworthwouldhave studiedthe attended from1779to1787. the youngpoet h the Wordsworth gazin fortouristtraffic. can’tbesaid the same in thevillage centre theyear;sadly, throughout monastery atFurnessAbbey. are Cars banned the 12thcentury,village wasownedbythe bustling centre forthelocalwooltrade;until to attend thevillage school, andwasoncea since thedayswhen Wordsworth arrived here alleys andrickety cottages. It’shardlychanged Ann Tyson’sCottage Ivy HouseHotel The You canalmostimagineayoungWilliam 10.30am-12.30pm &1.30-5.30pmApr-Oct) Hawkshead OldGrammarSchool Beatrix Potter Gallery Gallery Potter Beatrix contains lotsof contains originalillus- h

( % i 10.30am-4.30pm Sat-Wed Apr-Sep, 10.30am-4.30pm Sat-WedApr-Sep, g outof the windowsof

( 36204; www.ivyhousehotel.com; % ) A beautiful hostel in a Abeautifulhostel ina

( % 0870 7705856;hawkshead@ 36405; www.anntysons (NT;

pn n % Forthefull ) 36355; Red Lion 36355; Red

(admission £2; ) AGrade , which

601 CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES % Oct) the expect long queuesduring school holidays. Whiskers in manyof includingthe her tales, alreadyrecognise thehouse –it wasused Sawrey. Ifyou’re aPotter well fan,youmight vegetable patch inthequietvillage of Near stories inthispicture-postcard Beatrix Potter wrote many of herbest-known Top Hill weekends onlyOctober).April toSeptember, from Hawkshead toGrizedale(£3.15,twodaily can refuel. Easter) .grizedale.org; day £14/24; half-/full bikes 860369; www.grizedalemountainbikes.co.uk; hired from biking.Bikesfor walkingandmountain canbe ‘man of theforest’. xylophone, awave ferns andahuge of carved thepark,includingawoodenthroughout and there are now more than90scattered fashioning outdoorsculptures intheforest, for wildboar. Since1977artistshave been pine; itsnamederives fromtheOldNorse Forest, woodlandof adense oak,larch and iston Water andEsthwaite Water isGrizedale Stretching Con- outacross thehillsbetween Forest Grizedale AROUND HAWKSHEAD Grizedale (£3.15,15minutes). acoupleof alsotravelHouse; dailybuses to with Windermere boatsfromFerry cruise weekends onlyOctober) before connecting utes, nine timesdailyApriltoSeptember, ( daily ApriltoOctober). The bleside andConistonbybus505(12times Hawkshead islinked withWindermere, Am- Getting There&Away room £70to£80). unfussy B&Broomsupstairspleasant, (double steak andHawkshead bitter pie. There are inYorkshireberland sausage puddingand uplocaldishes such asCum- ing innserves mains £6-15) 602 % 36269; adult£5.10; Red Lion Red The Grizedale Forest isapopulardestination surroundedbyaflower-filled gardenand Grizedale tourist office tourist Grizedale 45161) . There’s also asmallcaféwhere you AEDSRC • Aon akha ••AroundHawkshead LAKE DISTRICT Cross-Lakes Shuttle Cross-Lakes climbstoHillTop(£2.30,10min- stories.Tickets are times; soldforset h This beautiful15th-centurycoach-

h Grizedale Mountain Bike Hire MountainBike Grizedale ( % 9am-5pm Mar-Oct, Sat&SunNov-Feb) 9am-5pm Mar-Oct, 10am-5pm Easter-Oct, 11am-4pmNov- 10am-5pm Easter-Oct, 36213; www.redlionhawkshead.co.uk; h 10.30am-4.30pm Sat-WedApr-

( % ( % 015394-45161) Cross-Lakes Shuttle Cross-Lakes 01229-860010; www farmhouse ( %

Samuel Samuel runs runs 01229- , at (NT;

years redesigning andgroundsin thehouse per 30min£2) Coniston LoyaltyCard(£2),whichoffers localdiscounts. Coniston Car&CoachPark; Summitreks Information near StAndrew’s church. wasburiedinthecemetery 2001; Campbell 320mph. Theboatanditspilotwere foundin futuristic jetboat was killedduringanattempt in1967,whenhis smashing therecord times,Donald several the1930sand1960s.Tragically,afterbetween Sir Malcolm andhisson,Donald, Campbell record attempts madeonthelake speed by relaxing by thequietlakeside. shops, makingConistonanexcellentplacefor streets, withtwofinepubsandsometourist days,thereindustry; these are justafew sleepy village grew uparoundthecopper-mining the OldMan of Coniston(801m).Thenearby pock-markedlooms thecraggy, peakknownas with itsglidingsteam yachts andquietboats, Above thetranquilsurfaceof Coniston Water, % CONISTON try estate in the Lake District, incorporating the District,incorporating the inthe Lake try estate The endresult isundoubtedly the finestcoun- pursuit of his conceptof ‘organic architecture’. mid-Nov–mid-Mar) h and sketchbooks. with displaysof hiswritings,watercolours 2001. There’s onJohn Ruskin, alsoasection oftailfin thefated newestacquisitionisthe story; themuseum’s andtheCampbell mining, ArthurRansome plores Coniston’s history,touching oncopper .com; admission£4.25; The Sights Pantry Village office Tourist andcanoes(£16/23perday). ing gear,aswellkayaks Yewdale andhires outwalk- Rd) Arrangesoutdooractivities wood Shuttle (£2.30fromHawkshead, ninedaily). the village, oryoucancatch theCross-Lakes bus 505(15minutes, hourly)travels through Coniston isbestknownfortheworld- Ruskin bought the country estate of thecountry estate Ruskin bought 11am-5.30pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, 11am-4.30pm Wed-Sun 11am-4.30pmWed-Sun 11am-5.30pm mid-Mar–mid-Nov, 015394 /pop1948 The house is2milessouthofThe house Hawkshead;

Ruskin Museum Ruskin ( % 41396; www.brantwood.org.uk; admission£5.50; ( % ( ( % % in 1871 and spent the next 20 in1871andspent thenext20 41212; www.summitreks.co.uk; 14 41533; www.conistontic.org; 41155; Yewtree Rd;internetaccess Bluebird Bluebird h

( % h 10am-5.30pm Mar-Nov) 41164; www.ruskinmuseum 9.30am-5.30pm) Sells the 9.30am-5.30pm) Sells flippedataround boat, recovered boat, in lonelyplanet.com Brant- ex- holidays) [email protected]; Far End;dm£11.80; twilight trip(bringyourownwine). twilight Activities launches (see below ) stopatBrantwood. and landscapedgardens.Bothof theConiston lavish mansionand101hectares of woodland Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ters here during hisfateful campaign. hadhisheadquar-to £16).Donald Campbell timber pillars and range fireplace (mains£8.50 pub nextdoor,with itsoriginalstonefloor, real 16th-century attraction isthefantastic the 10bedroomshave lake outlooks,butthe onahillsidejustabovestands town.Mostof 50, d£70-80; get anearlystart. but itmakes forhikers agoodbase lookingto and showers isabout alltheluxuryyou’llget – are pretty basic–akitchen, commonroom alonganunpavedtains road.Thefacilities isacoupleofhouse milesinto themoun- £11.95; hired on-site. ifalittlebland;bikes canbe and efficient, in dormswithfourto10beds.It’sfriendly up totheOldMan; alltheaccommodationis onthemainwalkingtrail right old slate house, surprisingly gets very busy,sobookahead. h Site Coniston HallCamp Sleeping (twohoursghies £35). (twohours £15)anddin- boats (£16),canoes Jetty) the onConiston and exploring theCampbells and Brantwood.There are alsospecialcruises Park SunnyBank Bank, Torver, aMor,Lake tothejettiesat (£7.40)sails Southern cruise andBrantwood,whilethe Hotel, Torver (returnern cruise £5)callsattheWaterhead launch.co.uk) Brantwood andConistonPier. the boatstillrunslike clockwork between completely refurbishedbeen bytheNT,and haveWater in1859.Theluxurioussaloons h The steam yacht Sun Hotel Coppermines YHAHostel The The Holly HowYHAHostel Easter-Oct) 5 dailyApr-Oct) Swallows andAmazons hires outrowboasts(£8perhour),motor h The closest hostel Theclosest totownisinsidean Coniston Boating Centre Coniston BoatingCentre Coniston Launch Easter-Oct) alsooffers lake TheNorth- cruises. pn

Thislovely lakeside campsite un- ( % 41248; www.thesunconiston.com;s£35- waslaunched onConiston Coniston’smosthistoricinn ) Thisoldmine-manager’s Gondola

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( ( % 0870 7795770;coniston % 41223; sitesfrom£11; h story,aswella 36216; www.coniston ( 0870 7705772;dm % 63850; adult£5.90; weekends & school weekends 41366; Coniston LAKE DISTRICT ••Langdale LAKEDISTRICT .wheelgate.co.uk; LittleArrow;r£68-78; gutbusting Cumbrianbreakfast. owners willmake sure youstockupwitha ing fields.It’scosyandwelcoming,the inside aformervicarage surroundedbyroll- inn haswelcomedmanyfamousguestsover tel.com; Torver; r£60-74; tel.com; Torver; 12; the trek into the Langdale Pikesthe trek past Harrison intotheLangdale some of the region’s classictrails– including valley of pointfor starting Great Langdale, The mainroadsnakes pastElterwater intothe District. intheLake the mostdramatic sights ridges,saw-tooth the ValleyLangdale isoneof Surrounded onallsidesbytowering peaks and % LANGDALE bus drivers andthetourist office. and entrancetoBrantwood.It’savailable from ermere, a return ticket ontheConistonlaunch Wind- between on the505ConistonRambler two dailyMondaytoSaturday). also runsfromKendal (one hour10minutes, to Saturday,sixonSunday)viaAmbleside;it Windermere dailyMonday (50minutes, eight From ApriltoOctober, bus505runsfrom Getting There&Around to sprawloutonafter alongday’shike. sofas mains,anddeep andevening sandwiches a decentmenuof all-day breakfasts, doorstop hopping ontothecross-lake launch. for aquicksandwich orasliceof cake before main Conistonjetty,andmakes anidealspot h Man Ale. for itshome-brewed BluebirdBitter andOld butit’s bestknown and DonaldCampbell), the years (includingColeridge, deQuincey Rd; lunch£4-6,dinner£8-14) Black Bull Eating and heftywoodenfurniture. worth alook,withitsoakbeams,lowceiling bed andwicker chairs, butDerwentisalso termere, witha mauve-canopied four-poster all namedafter locallakes; thenicestisBut- arerooms atthisoldwhitewashed farmhouse Wheelgate CountryGuestHouse Wheelgate h Bluebird Café The RuskinExplorer ticket includestravel Harry’s breakfast &lunch) 015394 Old Rectory Hotel Old Rectory all day)

( ( % % Alively winebarandbistrowith 41335; www.conistonbrewery.com; Yewdale 41389; 4Yewdale Rd;lunches£6,dinner£8-

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603 CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES [email protected]; sitesperadult/car£4.50/3) d £96-100; welcome sight attheendofwelcome sight alongtrek than inn, allof which are dwarfed bythemajestic home to just afew andasingle sturdy houses It’s oneof the wildestlocationsinLakes, of inEngland(79m). Wastwater isthedeepest and scree-strewn slopes,theinky blacklake Framed byabroodingcrownof mountains % WASDALE Ghyll inGreat Langdale. water, Skelwith Bridge andtheOldDungeon to thevalley,withstopsatAmbleside, Elter- on Sunday)istheonlyscheduled busservice sixdaily,five Rambler, Bus 516(theLangdale Getting There&Away but withviewslike this,doyoureally care? bar. Theroomsare showingtheirage inplaces, fashioned ambienceanditstimelesswalker’s in thepunters thankstoitsreassuringly old- walkers over theyears, andcontinuestopull ite getaway formanywell-knownclimbers and thefavour- inn.It’sbeen this famousLakeland meat andfish. localgame, a fine-diningrestaurant serving spacious roomswithallthemodconsand currenta thoroughly countryhotel, offering all stonechimneys andgrey slate; insideit’s ivy-clad placeistheperfect choice. Outsideit’s ern butstillwithsomelocalcharacter, this d£90-104; -ghyll.co.uk; mile upthevalley. well-run NationalTrustcampsite abouta the maininn. in withbreakfast served basic bunkhouse, ishing soupare allonthemenu.There’s a andmashnour-ian goulash,sausage ingenerousspecialises hikingfood:Hungar- Pikes inaconverted barn.As you’dexpectit walker’s pubtucked atthefootof theLangdale Stickle Barn Sleeping &Eating Roman Fortenroute. to thecoast,passing over andHardknottLangdale Wrynose Passes Little trailleadsthrough ancient packhorse and theascentof CrinkleCrags(819m).An Stickle (736m)andPike o’Stickle(709m), 604 New DungeonGhyllHotel Old DungeonGhyllHotel Site LangdaleCamp Great 019467 AEDSRC • Wsae ••Wasdale LAKE DISTRICT pn

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(NT; 37272; www.odg.co.uk; 37213; www.dungeon % 37668; langdal A popular A bridgeinn.com; s£55-58,d£60-75) bridgeinn.com; decorated with old mountaineering photos; decorated witholdmountaineering rooms withbig,soft beds;ahomelyrestaurant cosy ing hillwalker couldpossiblywishfor: thediscern- wonderful innhaseverything spiritual homeof British rockclimbing,this dale.com; d£48-98; locationthat’stherealthe fantastic draw. vivial lounge anddecent-sizedkitchen, butit’s eight-bed dorms,withasmalllibrary,con- features. Accommodationismostlyinfour- to that stillboastsmanyof itsoriginalGothic 19th-centurymansion beauty, ahalf-timbered advance booking) yha.org.uk; WasdaleHall;dm£11.95; Scaféll Range. bunch, spotbeneaththe nestledinafantastic campsiteLakeland isperhaps thepickof the campsite.org.uk; sitespercar/tent£3/4.50) Wasdale HeadCampsite Sleeping .wasdaleweb.com). guides andoversees the Wasdale website (www District’smoreence theLake side. untamed favourite spotforwalkers lookingtoexperi- Windermere,Lake which makes Wastwater a It’s aworldawayfromthehustleandbuzzof peaks of nearbyScaféllPike andGreat Gable. ranging from fell walkingtowater sports. hub foroutdoor activitiesof alldescriptions, centre andahumming intheNorthernLakes, slate townof Keswick isthebusiesttourist tree-lined lake of DerwentWater, thegrey attheheadofStanding theisland-studded, % KESWICK Saturday andSunday–ringtobook aseat. Gosforth andWasdaleHead onThursday, Wasdale Taxibus The onlypublictransporttoWastwater isthe Getting There&Away Competition each November. rooms, andhoststheWorld’sBiggest Liar country innthatoffers decentfoodand Wastwater, the drams. weary bonesanddownafew muscle-soothing and afirelit barwhere youcanrest those o YHAHostel Wast Water The In SantonBridge, 2.5milessouthwestof 017687 /pop4958 Barn DoorShop Wasdale HeadInn Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com This lakeside hostel isareal

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10am- To CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES Victorian style,withplentyof and glasscases in 1898.It’sstilldecorated intypicallyaustere mained largely unchanged sinceitsopening Rd; admissionfree; An oldrailway path(part of theC2C cycle There are plentyof walks inthe Keswick area. WALKING and motor-boats. 5pm) to March. are fromNovember onlytwodailysailings (£7.50, onehour,May There toSeptember). at7.30pminsummer cruise as anevening daily boatsfromMarch toNovember, aswell jetty are also available. There are atleastsix (return £6.50, 50minutes); singlefares toeach leave andanticlockwise hour,clockwise every End, Nichol EndandbacktoKeswick. Boats Brandlehow,LowHawseHigh around thelake: Ashness Gate, Lodore Falls, wick-launch.co.uk) The BOAT TRIPS Activities knewagoodsiteone.tainly whentheysaw prehistoric –those thing’s certain builders cer- ing placeandacelestialtimepiece),butone aBronzeAgeopinion isdividedbetween meet- of (currentThe purpose thecircleisuncertain a breathtaking amphitheatre of mountains. 4000 years onahilltopsurroundedby old,set Circle a ‘geological piano’anda500-year-old cat. dusty exhibitsincludingapenny-farthing bike, Delorean from from 606 a huge collectionof Bond cars. A mileeastof Keswick stands Nichol EndMarine Keswick Mar-Oct, plusMonJul&Aug) Mar-Oct, buses MondaytoSaturday,andsixonSunday. hour), Troutbeck(onehour20minutes) andPenrith (onehour40minutes). There are 16daily biographical poem epic inWordsworth’s 1st-floor drawingroomandthebeautifulwalledgarden,immortalised archive. thegrand includetheflagstonedkitchen, accounts fromtheWordsworth Highlights known as familyhome,now in1770.His townofCockermouth wasborninthesmallmarket Wordsworth WORTH THETRIP hires out , agroupof 3000and 48stonesbetween Keswick LaunchCompany Keswick AEDSRC • Ksik ••Keswick LAKE DISTRICT The X4/X5 bus travels from Workington via Cockermouth beforeThe viaCockermouth X4/X5bustravels travelling (one fromWorkington ontoKeswick Knightrider,

Museum & Art Gallery &Art Museum Wordsworth House Wordsworth h

calls at seven landingstages callsatseven kayaks, sailboards, rowboatskayaks, sailboards, Back tothe Future, 10am-4pm Tue-Sat Apr-Oct) 10am-4pm Tue-Sat Apr-Oct) theA-Team vanandthe

( % The Prelude 73082; NicholEnd; , has been painstakingly restored, hasbeenpainstakingly bytheNationalTrustbasedonfamily

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% . (NT; 72263; www.kes Castlerigg Stone Castlerigg 73263; Station % aswell has re- h 01900-824805; Main St;admission£4.70; 01900-824805; Main 9am- bedrooms splitover floors, including several warm-coloured B&Bhasseveral town house around EskinSt,thisimpressive B&Bprides s £29.50,d£59-64) around Keswick, including private balconies above theriver. small, moderndorms,someof which have river andFitzPark. Mostof thebedsare in perched inagloriousspotoverlooking the hostels recently intheLakes, refurbished and .org.uk; StationRd;dm£17.50; YHAHostel Keswick BUDGET Sleeping 10.15am (£8). ramble thatleaves fromthemainoffice at on manylocalwalks,andorganises adaily hasbooklets and Skiddaw.Thetouristoffice lar routes travel Crag toWallaCrag,Castle Fell; otherpopu- trail) leadsuptoLattrigg .co.uk; The Heads;d£70-80,ste £90; also organise guidedwalks. neutral andchampions fairtrade. Theowners isadmirably eco-friendlyhouse –it’scarbon voted thebestinnorthwestEngland,and single suite. Themassive breakfast hasbeen three top-floor rooms that combineintoa 1 DerwentWaterPl;r£50-60; steads and plush quilts. dour –expectrichbed- fabrics,wrought-iron are distinguished byatouch of baroquesplen- onitsupmarketitself rooms,allof which Tarn Hows END TOP & MIDRANGE ( 15.50) ing Park % Hazeldene Hotel Hazeldene House Cumbria There are someexcellentlocalcampsites 72392; CrowPark Rd; sites£14-18) and ( %

Keswick Camping & Caravanning ClubSite &Caravanning Camping Keswick ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 74499; www.castlerigg.co.uk; sites£13.50- 73217; www.tarnhows.co.uk; 3-5 Eskin St; 73217; www.tarnhows.co.uk; 3-5Eskin Arguably the bestof theB&Bs

( %

( ( % % 73171; www.cumbriahouse.co.uk; 73171; www.cumbriahouse.co.uk; h n 72106; www.hazeldene-hotel 0870 7705894;keswick@yha ni 11am-4.30pm Tue-Sat ) This fineGeorgian n Castlerigg HallCamp- Castlerigg nearthelake. Oneof thebest ) One of astring )

shop dishes outgenerous portionsof home- beckhotel-keswick.co.uk; d£94-123; beckhotel-keswick.co.uk; in an end-of-terrace Victorian house. in anend-of-terraceVictorian .edwardenehotel.com; s£35,d£68-72; stone fireplace viewsacross andsweeping as wellaglorious‘DeneSuite’ withitsown in shades of lavender, andcream, turquoise with lotsof excellent-value roomsfinished of imposingvillasoverlooking HopePark, lonelyplanet.com spring rolls orYakitori chicken, withMalay- falafels,sine –for starters choose youmight and-match approach toitswide-ranging cui- h for hire upstairs. mains andcrumblycakes. Bikes are available made soups,chunky Tex-Mex sandwiches, 5pm) .lakelandpedlar.co.uk; HendersonsYard; mains£3-8; sponges. itional fruitcakes, Battenburgs andchocolate Bryson’s Tea Roomisrenowned foritstrad- Perhaps themostfamousbakery intheLakes, Bryson’s Tea Room Eating &Drinking Fitz House Edwardene Hotel terrace that’s outof thisworld. country restaurant andapanoramicpatio extras includeaheated poolandJacuzzi, a for;added thenose normally paythrough kind of viewyou’d jaw-droppingLakeland are unfussy,simplyfurnishedandboastthe ple of milesfromKeswick. Theplainrooms hotel, huddled ontheslopesof Skiddawacou- get anybetter thanatthisfabulouslysituated r£108; Underskiddaw; rian vibe. of which Victo- continuetheunmistakably are dotted aroundthespaciousrooms,all dark-wood furniture andcast-ironbeds on theirMeerschaum pipes. Heavy curtains, to strolloutof thesmokingroom chugging you almostexpectsomewaistcoated gents charmingly outmodedcountryhotel, where period photossumuptheatmosphere atthis rugsandfaded grandfather clocks,Oriental the fells. Fitz Park guestconservatory. andaprivate dolme Tce;r£40-50; Lairbeck Hotel Lairbeck Hotel Lemon &Lime Pedlar WholefoodCafé Lakeland Other reliable choices: Lyzzick HallHotel lunch &dinner) Thishomelywholefoodcafé–cum–bike ( % 74488; www.fitzhouse.co.uk; 47Brun- Thisglobalbistro takes amix-

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pns % ( % ( ) LovelyB&Bwithviewsacross % 73586; 26SoutheySt;www 73088; 31 Lake Rd;mains£6-14; 73088; 31Lake 73373; Vicarage Hill; www.lair 73373; VicarageHill; 72257; 42 Main St; cakes £2-5) St;cakes 72257; 42Main 72277; www.lyzzickhall.co.uk; 72277; www.lyzzickhall.co.uk; ) Settings justdon’t Settings pn n (

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18-20 Lake Rd;mains£7-12) 18-20 Lake comes toKeswick atthisgroovy winebar, western edge of DerwentWater toHonister of theregion’s peaks. highest work of walking trailsandeasyaccess tosome popular withwalkers andhikers, withanet- mining area twinvalleysare –these hugely Honister Pass –once the county’smainslate- bytheold Districtlandscape.Lake Separated are manypeople’sideaof thequintessential the valleysof Borrowdale and Buttermere postcard, tages thatgracemanyaLakeland kind of remote andsturdycot- farmhouses pointy granite peaks,andsprinkledwiththe Hemmed inbywoodedfells, flatfieldsand % VALLEYS BORROWDALE &BUTTERMERE .keswickclimbingwall.co.uk) Centre wick ClimbingWall&Activity Mountain Bikes bikes canbehired from Off-road Getting Around Saturday, sixonSunday). Workington viaKeswick (17dailyMondayto hours) 10timesdaily(includingSundays). Windermere (50minutes) andKendal (1½ connects Keswick withAmbleside(40minutes) The ever-reliable bus555/556(theLakesLink) Getting There&Away nosh. of makes afineplaceforswiftpintandplate and woodenbooths, thisoldKeswick boozer With itslowceilings,tobacco-tinted walls enjoy yourself justalittle appreciate theextensive winelist,andifyou paintwork andvelour will cushions. Oenophiles decked burgundy outwithleatherbench seats, airy diningroom. orsteamedCumberland sausage fishinthe leather sofas before tuckingintoaplate of Enjoy apredinner drinkononeof thebrown modern styleandclassicCumbriancooking. istheperfectbrasserie–bar marriage between several contemporary roomsaboveseveral thebar. to follow. sian noodles,Thaicurryorchicken schnitzel Dog &Gun Café 26 Borrowdale stretches for6miles fromthe The hourlyX4/X5travels fromPenrith to 017687 Sweeney’s Bar Restaurant &Rooms Sweeney’s BarRestaurant

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CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES little wayupthevalleyisthisexcellentpur- [email protected]; Longthwaite;dm£15.50; is slightly more thanitsupmar-is slightly affordable and luxurious curtains. finished with antiquechairs, heavy bedspreads to utterly awe-inspiring),but they’re all cosily different slightly views(rangingfrompleasant P-shaped layoutmeansall theroomshave the finesthotel inthevalley.Theunusual convertedcentury, andhasnowbeen into built asaprivate residence inthe mid19th- swish countrymansionwas This seriously Grange;mains£16-22;d£134-180; dale-gates.com; only pub. the wonderfulRiverside –thevillage’s Bar unfussy rooms,inexpensive restaurant and lar overnight stopforwalkers, thankstoits magnificent Borrowdaleviews.It’sapopu- ket neighbours, andstillboaststhesame £97; in walkingtripsandoutdooractivities. pose-built, timber-clad hostel thatspecialises manmade waterfall. lounge a andeven playgrounds, agreat TV District,withhugeLake rooms,children’s now perhaps theposhest hostel intheentire Pocklington.It’s the localaristocratJoseph 2 milessouthof Keswick oncebelonged to Nov-Jan;weekends [email protected]; BarrowHouse;dm£13.95; YHAHostel Derwent Water SLEEPING &EATING andacoupleoffarmhouses hotels. scattered withstonecottages, slate-roofed winds roundinto the 300m the smallvillage of sive peaksof ScaféllandPike. rickety barns,andoverlooked bytheimpres- and rowdale valley,dotted withsmallcopses went Water theheartof through theBor- The mainB5289roadtrackstheedge of Der- Borrowdale Crummock Water towardsCockermouth. Pass alongtheshores of Buttermere and Lake Pass. Buttermere runsnorthwestfromHonister 608 the ley windsintothejagged ravine knownas with world-renowned views,especiallyfrom Borrowdale Gates Hotel Borrowdale Gates Scaféll Hotel Borrowdale YHAHostel A coupleof milessouthof Borrowdaleis pn Jaws ofBorrowdale AEDSRC • Ulwtr&Aon ••Ullswater&Around LAKE DISTRICT ) Castle Crag Castle This unpretentious inn Lakeland

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Theakston Brewery converted hasbeen into dotted arounditswonkyfloors includeacere- tradeguilds.Thevariousexhibits by Carlisle’s thatwaslater used 15th-century townhouse free; unn.ac.uk; Bridge Lane;dm£17.50; unn.ac.uk; Bridge an’s Wall. andHadri- Castle including visitstoCarlisle surrounding area fromApriltoSeptember, the This tiny MUSEUM GUILDHALL Hadrian’s Wall. recovered fromlocalVikingburialsites and mould, aSaxonswordandlotsof artefacts tion of exhibitsincludesaBronze Age spear- collec- of Themuseum’s modernCarlisle. life underRomanruleandthedevelopment tions exploringthefoundationof thecity, historytolife withexhibi- brings Carlisle’s 10-4pmMon-Sat,noon-4pmSunNov-Mar) Apr-Jun, &Oct, Sep 11am-5pm SunJul&Aug,10am-5pmMon-Sat,noon-5pm .co.uk; Castle St;admission£5.20; This excellent TULLIE HOUSEMUSEUM relics, includingthe16th-century original Normannave. including theeastwindowandpartof the until 1853,butasurprisingamountsurvives, restorationand castle. didn’tbegin Serious was torndowntohelprepair thecitywall troops,two-thirdsofliamentarian thenave in 1122.Duringthe1644–45siege bypar- was originallyconstructed asapriorychurch friendly owners. distinguished byitsgreat-value roomsand guesthouse-heavy area aroundWarwickRd, n fieldhouse.fsnet.co.uk; 169WarwickRd;s/dfrom£25/50; ally available duringthesummer holidays. student digsfortheuniversity; roomsare usu- YHA Carlisle Sleeping guidedtours.co.uk) Guiding Open BookVisitor Tours traditional wattle-and-daubconstruction. of wallshowingsection thebuilding’s exposed monial mace,thecity’sstocksandanintriguing Surrounding thecathedralare otherpriory Courtfield GuestHouse Courtfield ) h Prior’s Tower Prior’s Anotherfineredbrick inthe house noon-4.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) museum

Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Hostel Hostel offers tours of andthe Carlisle museum . (

( % % 0870 7705752;dee.carruthers@ 532781; Greenmarket; admission admission 532781; Greenmarket;

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( % 534781; www.tulliehouse h h 522767; mdawes@court 670578; www.great is housed in a ina ishoused 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, Jul-Sep) Fratry Theold and

north of thecitycentre, thislovely B&Bhas appointed B&B,which positively brimswith grandeur isthewatchword atthisbeautifully house.co.uk; 6HowardPl;s/d£30/60; and inviting,withsmartquilted bedspreads its originalcornicing;theroomsare simple original Victoriantiledhallwayandmuch of stillboastsits Grade II–listed cornerhouse .co.uk; 107WarwickRd;s/dfrom£30/50; lonelyplanet.com Plaza; mains £8-12; fish, chicken andfusionflavours. more extensive menuoffering evening mainly porary style. There’s lunch menuor a alight two floors anddecked outinspare, contem- culinaryscene,splitoverest entryonCarlisle’s & dinner) a Mexican fajita. paninior your fancy,whetherit’sanItalian you should beable tofindsomethingtake in flavours frompracticallyeverywhere, so flavoured cuisine. Theeclectic menutakes justdoFranco- this buzzylittlebistrodoesn’t h seared chicken kebabs andgrilledoctopus. uphuge, authenticplates of meze, serving £9-14; Alexandros Eating can’t allB&Bsbelike this? period photosandVictorianephemera. Why iscrammedwithbrassyantiques, the house dentoacoolblueboudoir,and an Oriental and idiosyncraticstyle. Roomsrange from three bedroomsfurnishedwithinvention, wit terly ravishing B&B-cum–boutiquehotel, with 31HowardPl;s/dfrom£60/85; servers.com; fresh smoothies. includes Loch Fynekippers, crumpetsand muted Thesumptuousbreakfast lighting. stripes andfurnished withrich fabricsand three bedroomssplashedinchecks, spotsand house.co.uk; 1EdenMount;s/d£50/75; alongthestreet. townhouse in asecond ings andgiltmirrors. More roomsare offered polished furniture, leatherarmchairs, oilpaint- with ensuite. and pinefurniture, notallcome although Cornerways Teza IndianCanteen Essen Le Gall One Number Thirty Aldingham House Langleigh GuestHouse lunch &dinner) h Thisgroovy newbar-diner isthenew-

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( % 592227; 68WarwickRd;meze£3-6,mains 818388; 7 Devonshire St;mains£5-8;818388; 7Devonshire Don’tletthenamefoolyou– h NORTH & EAST CUMBRIA••Carlisle &EAST NORTH 521733; www.cornerwaysguesthouse lunch &dinner Mon-Sat)

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597080; www.number31.free ( % 522554; www.aldingham 525111; 4a English Gate 525111; 4a English Gate 530440; www.langleigh pn pni pn pn ) Victorian The good An ut- h This ) ) ) Just lunch thing ratherlessexclusive, thiscornercoffee offers acarefully menuof composed thisrefinedtable, French-British restaurant Hexham andCarlisle. daily late May connects tolate September) and BusAD122(the Hadrian’s Wallbus;six hourly Mondayto Saturday,nineonSunday), trict. The104travels toPenrith (40minutes, Dis- intothecentralLake the 555LakesLink (one hour,three daily),where youcancatch (£22, three hours, sixdaily). (£15.60, twohours, 13daily)andManchester viaPrestonbuses Glasgow andBirmingham), (£30.50, sixhours, twodirect daily,withextra rect travel NationalExpress buses toLondon isCumbria’smaintransport hub.Di- Carlisle BUS Getting There&Away former Memorial Hall. venue forgigsandlive inthe music,housed coffee byday,andcoolSolbeers by night. great bar hasavaguelySpanish vibeandserves ‘bespoke’ cocktails. the tiles,withahuge menuof ‘classic’ and on plan barisanotherfineplaceforanight den awaynearthecathedral,thisswishopen- spin ontheturntables. industrial bar. Breakbeat, hip-hopandsoul razor-sharpcube lights, andamassive tables kitted outinurbanstylewith lisle’s hipset, this isoneof thefavourite hang-outsforCar- some after-dark action. Botchergate area, soheadthere ifyou’re after have sprunguparoundthenewlyrenovated Loads of designerbars and drinkingholes Drinking monkfish inParma ham. cuisine h marinated incloves andorange juice. temporary mains’such as of supplemented Indianstandards by‘con- styling andwire-frame chairs, withamenu sitars –here it’sallabout cleanlines,industrial Forget andpiped flockwallpaper,fish-tanks tury atthisutterly contemporary restaurant. old Indiancomescrashingintothe20thcen- Local buses includebus554toKeswickLocal buses Brickyard David’s Café Solo Café Fats Office lunch &dinnerTue-Sat)

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( % ( 404303; Botchergate) % 523578; 62WarwickRd;mains£10-18; 512220; 14Fisher St) 631600; 1Botchergate) Arguably Carlisle’s top Arguably Carlisle’s h narangi nu Sleek andchic, Sleek Carlisle’s main Carlisle’s 11am-11pm) Forsome- duck,

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613 CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA CUMBRIA & THE LAKES passes): andinformationonDayRanger ble details Dales (£14.45,1½hours). churchyard, butthestonepillars thatsuppos- king of to beburiedinthe allCumbria’)is said Church Andrew’s red includingthe18th-century sandstone, town’s buildingsare rust- builtfrom thesame word meaning‘red fell’, and mostof the fell intodisrepair inthe16thcentury. Gloucester –better knownasRichard III–but castle waslater expandedbyRichard, Duke of one of which razedthetownin1345.The bishop of toresist Canterbury) Scottishraids, Strickland (later Bishopof andArch- Carlisle 4.30pm Oct-Easter) Castle Penrith Sights office Tourist Library Information were onceposted towarnof Borderraids. the daysof Henry VIII,andwhere sentries cons have litintimesof been emergency since Fell,above where Beacon thetownstands bea- tearooms andtraditionalgrocerystores. High arcades packed withoutdoors shops, cafés, streettling high andanetworkof colonnaded commercialcentre,an important withabus- ofwas oncethecapital Cumbria,andit’sstill the sturdyredbrick market townof Penrith Nestled attheheadof thelushEdenValley, % PENRITH Tyne Valley Line Line Settle–Carlisle Line Lakes Line Glasgow–Carlisle CoastLine Cumbrian railways (call (£111, fourhours, nineto12daily). Regular trainsrunfromLondonEuston TRAIN 614 enholme near Kendal forWindermere (£17.50,1½hours). enholme nearKendal 1½ hours). Scottishlandscape(£30.50, passes throughspectacular (£21, 3½ hours), with views over the Irish Sea. (£21, 3½hours),withviewsovertheIrish houses asmalltownmuseum. dlegate; upon-Tyne (£10.60,1½hours). Carlisle istheterminus forfiveCarlisle scenic Penrith’s namederives fromanoldCeltic 01768 /pop14,966 OT ATCMRA • ert CUMBRIA••Penrith &EAST NORTH ( h % Branches off the main north–south lineatOx- Branchesoffthemainnorth–south 9.30am-5pm Mon-Sat,1-4.45pmSun)Also 242100; StAndrew’s Churchyard; ( %

wasoriginallybuiltbyWilliam % ( Follows Hadrian’s WalltoNewcastle- FollowsHadrian’s . Alegendary giant (the‘rightful h 867466; [email protected]; Mid- 0845 7484950fortimeta- CutssoutheastacrosstheYorkshire FollowsthecoastlinetoLancaster 7.30am-9pm Easter-Oct, 7.30am- 7.30am-9pm Easter-Oct, ThemainroutetoGlasgow h Mon-Sat) St floored Victorianresidence anarray houses fluffy-pillowed suite, whichfluffy-pillowed comeswithbrass cream of andapplegreen. allistheflashy, Best while others optformore modesttintsof four-posters andscarletfabricbedspreads, of top-drawerrooms;somefeature huge pine Pl;s£30-35d£60-70; .com; 2Portland try theBootlegingerbread. homemade cake greets guestsontheirarrival– rocking chair bed.Tea andwrought-iron and magnolia paint,aswelltheoddantique in fairlytypicalstylewithlashingsof pineand attheheadofhouse PortlandPl,allfurnished rooms are onoffer atthisdignifiedtown Pl;s£30,dortw£60; .co.uk; 1Portland simple.sunny anddelightfully the daysof Columbus.Theroomsare quaint, thatdates from and aspiralstonestaircase ing hall,amassive cast-ironcookingrange and Victorianfeatures, includingahuge din- still hasastunningassortmentof medieval amber-stoned 16th-centurymansionhouse of Penrith inthehamletof this Brougham, s/d £30/80,tw£50-76; Hornby Hall Sleeping remains crosses. of Celtic edly markhisgrave are actuallytheweathered here, served up in a semiformal diningroom upinasemiformal here, served Country dishes are very much themainstays hungry wayfarers forwellover twocenturies. good oldGeorge, feeding which hasbeen Penrith, youcan’t do much better thanthe £11; displays of localphotographyandartwork. and coffee, withalight-filled diningroomand sion. It’sPenrith’s bestplaceforlunch, cakes the counter,much butyouwon’tneed persua- gallery are chalked upontheblackboard behind 8; Bar No 15Café Eating personalthat all-important touch. theylack room,although their wayintoevery country furnishingsandthickcarpetsfind toric coaching inn.Pelmeted drapes,rich bang inthemiddleof townisPenrith’s his- .co.uk; St;s£55-71,d£96-156; Devonshire bedstead andwall-mounted plasmaTV. h George Hotel George Brooklands Brandelhow George Hotel George h daily) lunch &dinner) Fifteen reasons tovisitthiscafé-bar- (

% Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

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( % ( % 891114; www.hornbyhall.co.uk; Brougham;

% ( ( % % 863395; www.brooklandsguesthouse 864470; www.brandelhowguesthouse 867453; 15 Victoria Rd;lunches£6- 867453; 15Victoria pn 862696; Devonshire St;mainsfrom 862696; Devonshire 862696; www.georgehotelpenrith For asit-downmealin ) Three milessouth n n pn ) This three- ) Just afew Smack )

aginative cookingandcreative of use local a clutch of nationalpubawardsforitsim- wonderful 17th-centuryinnhasscoopedup affectionately knowntolocalsastheYat, this mains £14-19) Victorian frosted glass. embellished withcandles,countryprintsand lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake and theCumbriancoasthourlyMondayto Saturday, nineonSunday). (45minutes, 16dailyMondayto and Carlisle off Sandgate. Penrith Bus104 runsbetween isnortheastofThe busstation thecentre, BUS Getting There&Away beamed, stone-walledcharacter. menu, andtheinterior iscrammedwithoak- troutallfeature onthevaried and Bessyback produce –Fell-bred lamb,organic guineafowl o Bus X4/X5connectsPenrith totheLakes Yanwath Gate Inn Yanwath Gate Twomilessouthof Penrith, and NORTH & EAST CUMBRIA••AroundPenrith &EAST NORTH

( % 862886; Yanwath; rith andWorkingtonstopsatthecentre. who diedclimbingEverest in1924). ing toGeorge Mallory (theBritishmountaineer which includesacollectionof artefacts belong- Hansen Exhibition, NationalMountaineering a large-screen IMAXcinemaandtheHelly £5.95; ged.com; 1filmorattraction west of Penrith, hill2miles asaLakeland Cunningly disguised Rheged DiscoveryCentre AROUND PENRITH (£11.50, 50to60minutes, hourly). (£6.40, 20minutes, hourly)andLancaster Penrith hasfrequent connectionstoCarlisle TRAIN ing atWorkington. Keswick andCockermouth before terminat- Saturday andsixtimesonSunday,callingat The frequent Pen- busX4/X5between Rheged (

% h 01768-686000; www.rhe 10am-6pm) houses houses

615 CUMBRIA & THE LAKES LAKES THE & CUMBRIA