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LAKE DISTRICT

OLIVER BERRY Contents

Plan Your Trip 4 Welcome to the Lake District...... 4 Top Sights...... 6 Eating...... 10 Outdoor Activities...... 12 Views...... 14 Literary Locations...... 16 Drinking & Nightlife...... 18 History...... 20 Festivals & Events...... 22 For Kids...... 24 Shopping...... 25 Four Perfect Days...... 26 Need to Know...... 28 Lake District Regions...... 30

Windermere (p36) JAMES WHITLOCK / SHUTTERSTOCK © Explore the Survival Lake District 33 Guide 145 Windermere & Before You Go...... 146 Around...... 35 Arriving in the Grasmere & Central Lake District...... 148 Lake District...... 51 Getting Around...... 148 Hill Top, Coniston & Essential Information.... 149 Hawkshead...... 65 Index...... 154 Keswick & Derwentwater...... 79 Ullswater...... 97 Special Features Western Lakes & Cumbrian Coast...... 109 Stock Ghyll Force & Wansfell Pike...... 38 Inland Cumbria...... 127 Langdale Pikes...... 56 Old Man of Coniston...... 68 Haystacks...... 86 Helvellyn...... 100 Scafell Pike...... 112 Wrynose & Hardknott Passes...... 124 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Welcome to the Lake District

For natural splendour, nowhere in England compares to the Lake District – home to the UK’s most popular national park, England’s high- est mountain, and a World Heritage Site since 2017. With a postcard panorama of craggy hilltops, mountain tarns and glittering lakes, it’s a place that stirs the imagination. Lace up your boots: it’s time to get out and explore. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 6 Top Sights

Windermere & the Islands England’s largest lake. p36 Plan Your TripPlan DAVID GODDARD / CONTRIBUTOR / GETTY IMAGES © Top Sights 7

D K GROVE / SHUTTERSTOCK © Grasmere The beloved village of William Words- worth, whose former home Dove Cottage (pictured) you can visit. p52 Plan Your TripPlan Top Sights

AVELIB / ALAMYSTOCK PHOTO © Hill Top Beatrix Potter’s world-famous Lakeland home. p66

VISITBRITAIN/JOECORNISH /GETTYIMAGES © Scafell Pike The highest peak in England. p112 WW 8

Holker Hall Cumbria’s answer to Downton Abbey. p110 JOHN MORRISON / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © Plan Your TripPlan Top Sights LEFT: JOANA KRUSE / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©, RIGHT: DAVID LYONS / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ©

Gowbarrow Park Keswick & Aira Force A historic town on the gorgeous A glorious park and waterfall. p98 Derwentwater. p80 WW 9

Buttermere Carlisle Castle Arguably the loveliest of the Cumbria’s mightiest red-brick Lakeland valleys. p84 fortress. p132 LEFT: MICHAEL CONRAD / SHUTTERSTOCK ©, RIGHT: PECOLD / SHUTTERSTOCK © Plan Your TripPlan Top Sights JUSTIN FOULKES/LONELY PLANET ©

Langdale Pikes One of the classic peak-bagging hikes. p56 Explore The Lake District

Windermere & Around...... 35

Grasmere & Central Lake District...... 51

Hill Top, Coniston & Hawkshead...... 65

Keswick & Derwentwater...... 79

Ullswater...... 97

Western Lakes & Cumbria...... 109

Inland Cumbria...... 127

The Lake District Walking Tours c Stock Ghyll Force & Wansfell Pike...... 38

Langdale Pikes...... 56

Old Man of Coniston...... 68

Haystacks...... 86

Helvellyn...... 100

Scafell Pike...... 112

The Lake District Driving Tour 4 Wrynose & Hardknott Passes...... 124

Grasmere (p52) ANDREW ROLAND / SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 35 Explore Y Windermere & Around Stretching for 10.5 miles between Ambleside and Newby Bridge, Windermere is the largest body of water anywhere in England. The western shore is home to the busy towns of Bowness-on-Windermere and Amble- side, while the east side is much less developed.

Start your day with a wander round the shops and jetties of Bowness-of-Windermere, then enjoy a cruise (p37) around the lake and its islands, with an optional excursion to either Fell Foot Park (p48) or Wray Castle (p37). Alight at Ambleside for lunch – a good budget option is the Great North Pie (p47) or go gourmet at the Old Stamp House (p46). After lunch, visit the Armitt Museum (p46) and walk to Stock Ghyll Force (p39). Bus back to Windermere, and book dinner at one of the local gastropubs – the Mason’s Arms (p45) and Brown Horse Inn (p45) are both reliably good.

Getting There & Around f The Windermere Ferry (p148) shuttles between the lake’s east and west sides. g The 555/556 Lakeslink and open-top 599 run to Amble- side, Grasmere and Keswick. The 505 travels from Bowness to Coniston via Ambleside and Hawkshead. K The A591 links Windermere Town and Ambleside. The A592 tracks Windermere’s eastern shore from Bowness-on- Windermere to the lake’s southern end. d Windermere is on the branch line to Kendal and Oxen- holme, with connections to Edinburgh, Manchester and London Piccadilly.

Windermere & Around Map on p40

Windermere (p36) DANIEL_KAY / SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Survival Guide Before You Go 146 Book Your Stay...... 146 When to Go...... 146 Arriving in the Lake District 148 Windermere...... 148 Carlisle...... 148 Getting Around 148 Bicycle...... 148 Boat...... 148 Bus...... 148 Car & Motorcycle...... 149 Essential Information 149 Accessible Travel...... 149 Business Hours...... 149 Discount Cards...... 150 Electricity...... 150 Internet Access...... 150 Money...... 150 Public Holidays...... 151 Safe Travel...... 152 Tourist Information...... 152

Scafell Pike (p112) from the summit of Pillar STEWART SMITH / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO © 154 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Index See also separate subindexes for: 5 Eating p156 6 Drinking p157 3 Entertainment p157 7 Shopping p157

A Derwentwater Catbells 91 cycling 12, 148, see 90, 92 cell phones 28 also mountain Abbot Hall Art Ullswater 103 central Lake District biking Gallery 140 Windermere 37 51-63, 58 accessible travel 149 boat travel 148 itineraries 56-7 D accommodation 146-8 Border Reivers 141 sights 52-5 Dalemain 104-5 Aira Force 98-9 Borrowdale 84-5 transport 51 Dalemain Marmalade Ambleside 46-8 Borrowdale Fell walks 56-7, 56 Festival 105 Ambleside Race 23 Derwent Pencil rushbearing 47 children, travel Bowder Stone 91 with 24 Museum 81 Armitt Museum 46 Index Bowness-on- climate 146, 151 Derwentwater 79, Ashness Bridge 91 Windermere 42-5 Cockermouth 94-5 90-2, 88-9 ATMs 150 transport 79 Brantwood 75-6 Colwith Force 60 disabilities, travellers Bridge House 46 Conishead Priory B with 149 Brockhole National 119-20 Park Visitor Dove Cottage 53 Bassenthwaite Coniston 71-2, 70 Lake 93-5 Centre 42 drinking & nightlife transport 65 Beacon 116 bus travel 148-9 18-19, see also Coniston Boating Drinking subindex Beatrix Potter business hours 149-50 Centre 75 driving tours 124-5, Gallery 76 Buttermere 84-5 Coniston Water 72-6 Belle Isle 37 124 costs 28, 150 Biggest Liar in C credit cards 151 the World E Campbell, Donald 74 competition 117 Crosthwaite 44-5 Campbell, Malcolm 74 Easdale Tarn 60 Birdoswald Roman Cumberland County car travel 124-5, 149, Show 22 Egremont Crab Fair Fort 138 22, 116 124 Cumbrian Coast 109- Blackwell electricity 150 Carlisle 128-35, 130 23, 114-15 House 42-3 Elterwater 60-1 Carlisle Castle sights 110-11 boat tours English Heritage 147 132-35 transport 109 Coniston Water Ennerdale 117-18 72-3, 75 Carlisle Cathedral Cumbria’s Museum 129 of Military entertainment, see Cartmel Priory 121 Life 135 Entertainment subindex Castlerigg Stone currency 28 Sights 000 Circle 95 events, see festivals & Map Pages 000 events 155

F Grasmere Lake 59 Holker Hall 110-11 Museum 119 Grasmere Sports Honister Pass 85 Levens Hall 143 Fell Foot Park 48 Day 55 Honister Slate literary locations 16-17 fell walking, see hiking Great Langdale 61-2 Mine 93 Little Langdale 62-3 festivals & Great North Swim 22 Howtown 106-7 Lodore Falls 92 events 22-3 Grizedale Forest 77 Loughrigg Fell 60 Ambleside Grizedale Mountain I rushbearing 47 Lowther Estate 138 Bikes 77 Borrowdale Fell Ings 44 Lyth Valley 49 inland Cumbria 127- Race 23 H Cumberland County 43, 136-7 M Show 22 Hadrian’s Wall 138 sights 128-31 Maiden Holme 37 Dalemain Marma- Hallin Fell 107 transport 127 Martindale 106-7 lade Festival 105 Hardknott Pass 124 internet access 150 mobile phones 28 Egremont Crab Fair Haweswater 106 itineraries 26-7 money 28, 150-2 22, 116 Hawkshead 76-7 Morecambe Bay 122 Fred Whitton transport 65 K Challenge 23 motorcycle travel 149 Hawkshead Kendal 140-3 Grasmere Sports mountain biking 77, 92 Grammar School Kendal Calling 22 Day 55 76 Muncaster Kendal Mountain Castle 118 Great North Haystacks 86-7 Swim 22 Festival 22 Museum of Lakeland Helm Crag 60 Life & Industry Kendal Calling 138 Kendal Museum 140 Index Helvellyn 100-1 Keswick 79, 80-3, 141 Kendal Mountain heritage 82, 88-9 Festival 22 organisations 147 sights 80-3 N Keswick Beer highlights 6-9 Festival 22 transport 79 National Trust 147 hiking 12-13 Keswick Mountain Keswick Adventure Newlands Valley 92 Blencathra 91 Festival 22 Centre 81 nightlife18-19, see also Taste Cumbria 22 Castle Crag 91 Keswick Beer Drinking subindex Westmorland Catbells 91 Festival 22 County Show 22 equipment 152 Keswick Mountain O World’s Haystacks 86-7 Festival 22 Old Coffin Trail 59 Greatest Liar Helvellyn 100-1 Keswick Museum 81 Old Man of Competition 117 Langdale Pikes 56-7 Kirkstone Pass 107 Coniston 68-9 food 10-11, see also Newlands Horse- Old Stamp House 46 Eating subindex shoe 92 L opening hours 149-50 Fred Whitton Old Coffin Trail 59 Challenge 23 Lakeland Motor Old Man of Museum 49 P Furness Abbey 120 Coniston 68-9 Lakes Aquarium 48 safety 152 Penrith 138-40 G Lakeside & Haverth- Scafell Pike 112-13 waite Railway 49 Penrith Castle 138 Glenridding 105-6 Skiddaw 91 Langdale Axe Pooley Bridge 103-4 Go Ape 77, 92 Hill Top 66-7 Factory 63 Postman Pat 24 Gowbarrow Park historical sights 20-1 Langdale Pikes 56-7 Potter, Beatrix 66-7, 73, 76 98-9 Hoad Monument 119 language 28 public holidays 151-2 Grasmere 51, 52-5 holidays 151-2 Laurel & Hardy 156

R St Martin’s 106 District 109 Windermere St Olaf’s Church 117 Windermere 35 Town 42-5 railways St Oswald’s Troutbeck 39 Winster 44-5 Haverthwaite 49 Church 53 Tullie House Winster Valley 49 Ravenglass & Stavely 44 Museum 129 Wordsworth Eskdale Steam Yacht House 94 Railway 118 Gondola 72 U Wordsworth Museum Settle-Carlisle Stock Ghyll & Art Gallery 53 Railway 131 Ullswater 97-107, 102 Force 38-9 Wordsworth, William South Tynedale itineraries 100-1 53, 59, 76, 94 Railway 140 T sights 98-9, 103-7 World Gurning Ravenglass 118 transport 97 Championships Tarn Hows 77 Ravenglass & walks 100-1, 100 116 Taste Cumbria 22 Eskdale Ullswater Way 103 World of Beatrix Railway 118 Three Shire Ullswater’s ‘Steam- Potter 42 Stone 62 Reivers 141 ers’ 103 World’s Greatest Liar time 28 Rum Story 116 Ulverston 119-21 Competition 117 rushbearing ceremony tipping 151 Wray Castle 37 (Ambleside) 47 top sights 6-9 V Wrynose Pass 124 Ruskin Museum 71 tourist information vacations 151-2 Rydal Mount 59 152 5 Eating tours, see also boat visas 28

Index 1863 104 S tours Carlisle 133 W safety 152 A Coniston Water Wainwright, Alfred sailing 105-6 72, 75 17, 87 Abrahams’ Tea Rooms Scafell Pike 112-13 Derwentwater Wansfell Pike 38-9 82 Scale Force 15 90, 92 Wasdale 117 Allium at Askham Sellafield Nuclear Hall 140 Honister Slate Wastwater 118 Plant 120 Mine 93 Another Place, The Watendlath Tarn 91 Settle-Carlisle Morecambe Bay Lake 104 waterfalls 15 Railway 131 Crossing 122 Apple Pie 46-7 weather 146, 151 shopping 25, see also Ullswater 103 Shopping subindex websites 28, 146 Windermere 37 B Sizergh Castle 143 Western Lake District Townend 39 Baba Ganoush 142 Skelghyll Wood 39 109-23, 114-15 transport 29, 148-9 Baldry’s Tea Skelwith Bridge 60 itineraries 112-13 central Lake Room 53-4 Skelwith Force 60 transport 109 District 51 Bluebird Cafe 75 Slater’s Bridge 63 walks 112-13, 112 Coniston 65 Brew 54 Sour Milk Ghyll 60 Westmorland County Cumbrian Brew Brothers 141 South Tynedale Show 22 Coast 109 Bridge Hotel 85 Railway 140 Derwentwater 79 Whinlatter Forest Park 92-3 Brown Horse St Bees Head 116 Hawkshead 65 Whitehaven 116 Inn 45-9 inland Cumbria 127 Bryson’s 82 Windermere 35, 36-7, Keswick 79 40-1 Sights 000 Ullswater 97 C Map Pages 000 transport 35 Western Lake Chalet 90 157

Chesters by the H Quince & Medlar 95 Golden Rule 47 River 60 Hell Below 131 Hawkshead Cottage in the Wood R Jennings Brewery 44-9 92-3 Brewery 94 Herdwicks 71 Rogan & Company 122 Lakes Distillery 93 Hole in T’Wall 44 D Lily 48Mortal Man 39 Homeground 44 David’s 130 S Old Dungeon Ghyll 62 Hooked 43 Drunken Duck 76 Square Orange 82-3 Royal Oak 47-8 Staff of Life 141 Shabby Scholar 131 E J Steam Bistro 71 Sun Hotel 71 Jasper’s Coffee Eltermere Inn 61 Traveller’s Rest 55 House 82 Sticklebarn 62 Emma’s Dell 54 Wasdale Head Inn 117 Jumble Room 54 T Watermill 44-9 F L Thin White Farmers Arms 121 Duke 129-30 Lake Road 3 Entertainment Fellbite 106 Kitchen 46 Tower Bank Arms 67 Fellini’s 47 Traveller’s Rest 106 Brewery Arts Last Zebra 130-1 Centre 143 Fellpack 81-2 Trout Hotel 94-5 L’Enclume 122 Brickyard 131 Fish Inn 85 Lewis’s 54 Fats 131 Four & Twenty 139 W Lingholm Rheged 138 Foxborough Kitchen 90 Waterside 142-3 Index Rookin House 104 Smokehouse 130 Lyth Valley Country Wheatsheaf Inn 143 Foxes Cafe Inn 49 7 Shopping Lounge 133 Y Francine’s 43 M Cartmel Yard 46 142 Cheeses 123 Mason’s Arms 45-9 G Cartmel Village Merienda 95 Z Shop 123 George & Moon Highgate 142 Dragon 138 Zeffirelli’s 47 George Fisher 83 Morrel’s 83 Gillams Zest Harbourside 116 Hawkshead Relish Tearoom 120-1 Company 77 P Gilpin House 44 JJ Graham 139 6 Drinking Grain Store 143 Pheasant Inn 93 Low Sizergh Barn 143 Granny Poppies Cafe 121 Bitter End 95 Dowbekin’s 103 Prior’s Kitchen Black Bull 71-2 Sam Read Bookseller 55 Grasmere Tea Gardens Restaurant 133 Britannia Inn 61 54-5 Punch Bowl Cafe-Bar 26 83 Sarah Nelson’s Gingerbread Great North Pie 47 Inn 45-9 Crafty Baa 44 Shop 55 Dog & Gun 83 Q Stockghyll Fine George Hotel 83 Food 47 Queen’s Head 76-7 160 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Our Writer

Oliver Berry Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from Corn- wall. He has been writing for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, covering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands and contributing to more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet’s Traveller. His writing has won several awards, includ- ing The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine’s People’s Choice Award. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com. Our WriterOur

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