ZIMBABWE Ible

ZIMBABWE ible. Ifyou’re willingtojoinatourgroup,or colour remain. ofways,butlocaltraditionsare Colonialismremains vis- etchedinallsorts capital, Zimbabwecontinuestobeagreat placetovisit. overof Great Zimbabweandthemountainslooking Mozambique, tofinedininginthe image ofthecountry.Fromabsolute wildernessofManaPoolsNationalPark, theruins royaltreatment.expect They needyou. have notlosttheirhumourorresolve. Withsofew visitingthecountry,thosewhodocan touristed –countries. Anddespite beingforcedtosacrificesomanythings,Zimbabweans and womendieyoungerinZimbabwethananywhere elseontheplanet. were evicted inthemidstofwinter. Unemployment isat70%,inflationhastopped1000%, theoppositionimploded,andhalfamillionofpooreststole anotherelection, people headlinesforallthewrongreasons.Zimbabwe continuestomake In2005theGovernment e w b a b m i Z 680 © LonelyPlanetPublications the world’sbestclimates…even theworstgovernment can’tdestroythat. charm, politicalintrigueandmagnificentwildernessawaits. Oh,andZimbabwe’sgotoneof Zimbabwe isnolongernearlyascheapitoncewas,butitsrichnessinculture and While theworld’smediafocusesonfallofZimbabwe,visitorswillseeavery different But behindthegrimdataliesoneofSouthernAfrica’s mostbeautiful–andtoday,un-

FAST FACTS

to have emigrated since2001) to three millionZimbabweans are thought Population: bele); Phrases: Money: Languages: Victoria Falls National Park, ZambeziRiver canoesafaris, Famous for: Country code: Capital: Germany) Area: 390,580sqkm(slightlylarger than ndatenda/masvita Zimbabwedollar(ZW$) Harare Siyabonga kakulu English, Shona,Ndebele 13 million(official,though up Great Zimbabwe,Hwange

% 260 (thankyou;Shona) (thankyou;Nde- pay andplanyourowntrip,thenacountryof

lonelyplanet.com

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS Kazungula

ZIMBABWE Kasane ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Off the beaten track thebeaten Off peak. highest the casino,orclimb Zimbabwe’s second- horseback, winmillions (read: US$5)at Highlands Eastern anytime.golf onaworld-classcourse tional Festival of theArtsinAprilorplay Harare south of thepyramids. city withAfrica’slargest stonestructures Zimbabwe Great hippos andcrocs. past theZambezi Canoe walking safaris. park (withlions)thatallowsunguided Pools Mana Big Five inHwange National Park, Zim- RP NP GS LEGEND B OTSWAN Orapa Recreational Park National Park Game Sanctuary Zambezi ( p692 ) GotoHarare’s Interna- Victoria NP Falls Pandamatenga Livingstone ( p705 ) Africa’sonlynational Batoka Gorge Nata ZIMBABWE••Highlights Hwange Zambezi River ( p716 ) Visitthisancient NP Dete Hwange ὈὈ ( p706 on) Fish,safari Ramokgwebana Z AMBI Mlibizi Francistown 73) bev the Observe ( p723) River Gwaai Lupane

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ITINERARIES Ruins e Kadoma z

i park. babwe’s largest andmostwildlife-packed Kariba itinerary, andaddin week the placesmentioned intheone-totwo- you alsovisitVictoriaFalls (see p626 ). iting the Three weeks Three Park from where youcanaccess Zimbabwe Great Masvingo in oneortwoplaces–eg One totwoweeks 70) or ( p710) Umfuli Chegutu NP Mana Pools RP Monument Zimbabwe ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ Ὀ Karoi National

River A FRIC Kwe Great Gweru S OUTH

72) or (p722); Beitbridge Luangwa Limpopo Runde Shurugwi

Chivero Zvishavane Bubi Rutenga ( p703 ) and Lake Chinhoyi ( p715 ), fromwhere youcanvisit Lake Chivero Eastern Highlands Eastern Domboshawa Mana Pools Mana

River

Mvuma M Spendlonger at (andaround) River vu

RP rwi

Masvingo River R

a M OZABIQUE

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Marondera C ὈὈ ὈὈ Hwange a Chiredzi

NP Ewanrigg h ( p705 ) Mount Darwin o ( p707 ), goodforvis- Birchenough r

a M OZABIQUE Shamva Rusape

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a Bulawayo Bridge

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Gweru River Eastern

Dam National Parks Wengezi Nyanga

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ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE humid and warmermonths from November deluges and electricalstorms intherelatively of Zimbabwe’srain fallsinbriefafternoon in winter there’s stillvery littlerainfall.Most ence hotter andmore humidtemperatures, but not uncommon. frostsandfreezing temperaturesnight are over- snows, though Itnever clear nights. summer, withwarm,sunnydays and cold, to October) are similartotheMediterranean The cooler,driermonths (Maythe dryseason. temperateenjoys apleasantly climate during Zimbabwe stretches over plateau ahigh and CLIMATE &WHENTO GO 682

Great Zimbabwe Great for three hours to then flybacktoHarare anddrive south fish, safari, on thebanksof theZambezi, to be tolandinHarare, take acharter flight overlooking Mozambique. Anotherwould road triptothe could thenflyto Park there, then bedriven to toria Falls (see p626 ), spend afew days route istoflyfromJohannesburg toVic- Oneexcellent one monthupyoursleeve. One month and Mana PoolsNationalPark. Harare, Highlands, the Eastern Kariba Bulawayo, Gweru,Masvingo, Mutare, Victoria Falls, Hwange NationalPark, Alternatively, route: ie tryasemicircular ValleyThe lowveld andthe Zambezi experi-

LONELY INDEX PLANET MUCH? HOW

Plate ofchips Souvenir T-shirt Bottle ofbeer 1L ofbottledwater 1L ofpetrol Sunscreen Steak Wooden carving Safari Soapstone sculpture Lake Kariba Lake ZIMBABWE ••Climate&WhentoGo ( p723 You) forastunningsafari. US$7 US$50-350 Youcantake yourtimewith US$7 73) or (p703) US$1 76) ruins. (p716) US$0.80 US$1 Bvumba Mountains Bvumba Harare US$3 Masvingo US$1-100 US$0.75 US$2-200 ( p692 ) andtake a Mana Pools Mana Hwange National ( p715 ) andthe (p708) (p705) and willbespoiledbytheirhosts. full range of remaining lodges andactivities, come toZimbabwewillhave achoice of the whodo meanthatthose does weans, though years ago. ThisisawfulnewsforZimbab- Tourism isafractionof whatitwasjustfive will have somuch of thecountrytoyourself. access tothescarcewater anddie. be astressful one,asmanyanimalsdon’tgain this isanincredible itcanalso though sight, atHwange NationalPark.seen Obviously in2005,herdsofdrought 300elephantswere therefore Attheendof easiertoglimpse. a diminishing numberof water holes,andare animalstend tocongregatebecause arounda storms. but maybetempered byafternoon thunder- daytime temperatures canclimbto35°C, can fallbelowfreezing, whileinsummer drance. Inwinter temperatures night-time isn’tagreat thewettesteven wetseason hin- year round,andgiven thechance of drought, Great Zimbabwe societyencountered Swahili thatinthe11thcentury, Historians believe &thePortuguese ShonaKingdoms The ern Africa,iscovered on p37 . came Zimbabwe,alongwiththerest of South- The precolonial historyof thearea thatbe- HISTORY truth Zimbabwehasabeautifulclimate all fortravelling,most comfortable in though so dobecareful storms. duringthose incidence of lightening strikes intheworld, to April.Zimbabwehasthesecond-highest Winter isthebesttimeforwildlife viewing No matter tocome,you when youchoose travel agent, orafriendin the country. Zimbabwe willorganise theirtripthrougha central reasons whyalmostallvisitors to These two–fuelandmoney – are two offuelatanymoment. on theimportation a capriciousgovernment couldchangelaws (for thefirsttimesinceJanuary2005). But now readily availableinallpetrolstations and p686 ). At thetimeofwritingpetrolwas upon thetourist(seeboxed texts, p684 gated disaster that sadlygreatly impacts The currency isanongoingandunmiti- TRAVEL TIPS Generally, thedrywinter monthsGenerally, are the lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com this asaggression andlaunched anattack ish and the Ndebele prevent Shona interference theBrit- between raiders toFortVictoria (nearMasvingo) to agroupoflowed. Lobengula sent Ndebele each month. rounds of ammunition,agunboatand£100 inexchangerights for10,000rifles,100,000 Concession, which granted foreigners mineral of himtosigntheRudd thecompany,coerced thefounder (BSAC). Rhodes, In1888Cecil with theBritishSouthAfricanCompany toBulawayo.Ndebele capital gula ascendedthethroneandrelocated the After Mzilikazi’sdeathin1870,hissonLoben- aNdebelestate.Hills, Mzilikaziestablished the Rozwileader. Uponreaching theMatobo kazi, invadedfromthesouthandassassinated Long Shields), underthecommandof Mzili- WhoCarry known astheNdebele(Those This statecontinueduntil1834whenraiders overpassed halfof present-day Zimbabwe. creation of which theRozwistate, encom- mysterious landof Ophir. hoped tofindKingSolomon’sminesandthe totheEuropeans),where(Monomatapa they cities inthevastempire of MweneMutapa ers arrived of insearch riches andgolden trad- states. Inthe16thcenturyPortuguese Shona dynastiesfractured intoautonomous tion anduprisings. population, overgrazing, politicalfragmenta- ofits influencewasindeclinebecause over- bythe15thcentury, and powerful.However, Asia, andGreat Zimbabwebecamewealthy and ivoryforglass,porcelainclothfrom coast forover fourcenturies.Theytradedgold traders plyingtheMozambique whohadbeen But a series ofBut aseries misunderstandings fol- Lobengula soon found himself faceto Lobengula soonfoundhimself ShonaAlliances between ledtothe states During Great period, Zimbabwe’stwilight from tourists. outsider’s perspective. There couldbenothingworseforeveryday Zimbabweansthanaboycott both foryourbusiness,tips,butalsosothatthecountryanditspeoplecontinuetogetan the bread linebecausetourismhasallbutdriedupinZimbabwe. They needyouinZimbabwe, are thousandsoftalented whoare sculptors,guides,smallbusinesses,waiters allon andartists the government insomehotels hasastake andthenationalairline,butmore thanthatthere donors, andiftheystillseearoleinZimbabwe(anddo),thenyoushouldn’tworry.Yes, This isadebate forinternationalcronies, thenpackawayyourworriesandgetoutpassport. If youronlydoubtsaboutholidayingtoZimbabweconcerndollarsgoinggovernment SHOULD YOUGO? ZIMBABWE••History . TheBritish mistook (War for Liberation) had begun. Although the (War for Liberation) hadbegun. Although joined in, andby1896the First Chimurenga, Shona, traditional enemies of theNdebele, This warlike spiritproved the contagious; to drive theenemyfromtheirlandforever. ering forcesandsingle-mindedlyattempting Ndebele camebackwithavengeance, gath- Spotting aweakness intheBSAC army,the interests.control bothAfricanandRhodesian came apparent thatthecolonistsintended to Shona andEuropeanscontinued until itbe- tively the quashed, buttradebetween been by andof’ thewhites. TheNdebelehadeffec- The government up‘for, wasset of Rhodesia FirstChimurenga The doubled. years latercountry, andseven thefigure had 1904 there were some12,000settlersinthe European immigrationbeganinearnest:by founder, andawhite legislature up. wasset after itsheavy-handedbeing calledRhodesia, land plateau. By1895thenewcountrywas ists appropriated farmlandsontheMashona- couldn’t refuse. the Ndebele,withtheirdepleted numbers, suggested anegotiatedRhodes settlement, against theBSAC intheMatobo Hills.When the Shona, andguerrillawarfare broke out the early1890stheyalliedthemselves with ued toresist theBSAC andforeign rule. In in exileof smallpox. and finish himoff. Intheend,Lobenguladied River Patrol totrackdownthemissingking token, thevengeful theShangani British sent Ignorantofby companyemployees. thisgold Lobengula totheBSAC wascommandeered burned. Apeaceoffering of by goldsent villages) were destroyedandBulawayowas on Matabeleland. Lobengula’s Meanwhile, findinglittlegold,thecolon- Without theirking,theNdebelecontin- kraals

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683 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE the way for theindependence of Northern federation’s break-up in 1963–which paved ship of Ndabaningi Sithole. Following the abreakaway(ZANU), groupunderthe leader- and the Zimbabwe AfricanNationalUnion under theleadership of JoshuaNkomo, Zimbabwe African People’s Union(ZAPU) the labourforce. as acounterweight totheradicalelements in favoured amore raciallymixed middle class ated in1953,miningandindustrialconcerns were andNyasaland feder-Northern Rhodesia rebellion, andbythetimeSouthernRhodesia, Poor wages ledtoa andconditionseventually them fromskilledtradesandprofessions. farmland, andalabour lawthatexcluded black Africansfromownership of thebest ApportionmentAct,which disallowed Land supremacy waslegislated intheformof the income, sofew blacksqualified.In1930white onBritishcitizenshipandannual was based stitution wasintheorynonracial,suffrage con- of SouthAfrica. Rhodesia’s Although governing colonyratherthanjointheUnion in which the whites tobecome aself- chose into sharpfocusafter the1922referendum blackandwhiteConflicts between came ofNationalism Beginnings hanged.subsequently in 1897whenitsleaders were captured and revolt gainedsomemomentum,itwasstalled 684 Two Africanpartiessoonemerged –the though transactions intownarethough transactions bestpaidforinZimdollars. official exchangerate. Generally,hotels andtouroperatorsprefer paymentsinforeign currency, ATM cardsoccasionallywork,thoughyourmoneywon’tgovery farsinceyou’llbegiven the though eurosorBritishpoundsare usuallyeasytochange. Credit cards,travellers chequesand thatyouwillgetcaught. work hand-in-handwiththetouristpoliceandit’slikely money inasafe environment.Finally, never changemoneyonthestreets asthemajorityoftouts the peopleatyourhotel, hostel ortouroperatoras they’re tobeablehelpyouchange likely caught are severe –youwillbefinedandpossiblyimprisoned. At thetimeofwriting,parallelexchangerate wasUS$1toZimbabwean$750. andthatthe exchangeratemarket’, canbethree or fourtimesasfavourabletheofficialrate. dangerous) endeavour. ithelpstoknowthatlocalschangemoneyonthe‘parallel Forstarters, situation, seetheboxed text, p686 . dollar was1:250.Justafew weeksearlier,therate was1:250,000.Formore onthevolatilemoney At thetimeofwriting,officialexchangerate betweentheUSdollarandZimbabwean MNY ATR MATTERS MONEY Before arrivinginZimbabwe,stockuponpost-1996 USdollars(theoneswiththebigheads), alwaysseekoutthelatestIf youdodecidetousetheparallelmarket, information.Talk to inmindthatchangingKeep moneyoutsideabankisillegal,andtheconsequencesforbeing For theuninitiated, changing moneyinZimbabwecanbeahead-splitting(andpotentially ZIMBABWE •• History ZIMBABWE ••History Matthew DFirestone countered byoutlining conditionstobemet ence. Britishprimeminister Harold Wilson presidency and beganpressing forindepend- In 1964IanSmithtookover theRhodesian Chimurenga Ian Smith&theSecond leaders imprisoned. were andZANU bannedandtheir the ZAPU (Malawi) andNyasaland – (Zambia) Rhodesia and Mugabe fledtoMozambique. Thefollow- split broke however, The talks, down;ZANU Mugabe –andtobeginpeace negotiations. nationalists–includingRobert high-ranking suaded Smithtocall acease-fire andrelease KennethVorster andZambia’s Kaunda per- home, abandonedtheirproperties. borninAfricaand knewnoother had been creasing ferocity, andwhites, mostof whom intothe countrywithin- raids struckdeeper hadopted forguerrilla warfare.ZAPU Their and ish companies.Bythisstage, bothZANU by mostWestern byBrit- countriesandeven were thesanctions 1968). However, ignored tions (which were also adopted bytheUNin economicsanc- illegalandimposed action Independence. 1965 hemadeaUnilateral Declarationof realised thewhites agree, wouldnever soin and majority desire forindependence. Smith equality,coursetowardsmajority rule, racial before wouldagree: Britain of guarantee On 11December1974SouthAfrica’s John respondedBritain bydeclaringSmith’s lonelyplanet.com re-formed. ZANU and ZAPU createdre-formed. andZAPU an ZANU intelligence. byRhodesian was assassinated inLusaka chairman Herberting year,ZANU Chitepo lonelyplanet.com timism quickly faded:aresurgence of rivalry theinitial euphoria,unity andop- However, bly educationand healthcare –were initiated. creased, andbasic socialprogrammes–nota- dependent nations. government joined theranksof Africa’s in- margin andZimbabwe itsmajority-rule March 1980, Mugabe prevailed byawide tion) 20of seats. the100parliamentary whitesIt guaranteed (then3%of thepopula- Agreement House the Lancaster wasreached. to make anyconcessions,butafter 14weeks who wanted ultimate power,initiallyrefused government of Muzorewa andSmith.Mugabe, and Mugabe,theZimbabwe-Rhodesian stitution favourable toboththePFof Nkomo London,todrawupacon- House, Lancaster 1979delegationsmetat On 10September Independence settlement’. conditionsasthe‘internalon much thesame and handover leadership toMuzorewa, but forced tocallageneral, nonracialelection proved tobeintransigent. Finally,Smithwas ditch bothSitholeandMuzorewa, butNkomo secret negotiationswithNkomo,offering to Smithenteredsalvage thesettlement, into Chimurenga.now knownastheSecond To the onlyresult wasanescalationof thewar, amnesty wasdeclared forPFguerrillas. Andan police, judiciaryandcivilservice. andcontrolofsion rights; thearmedforces, 10 years; guarantee of theirpropertyandpen- veto over seats; liamentary alllegislationfor whites were guaranteed28outof the100par- so-called ‘transitionalgovernment’ inwhich leader of theANC,Abel Muzorewa, joineda Sithole,andthe try an‘internal settlement’. tion andacollapsingeconomy,wasforcedto People’s Army. spectively) combinedtoformtheZimbabwe re- andZANU armsof(the military ZAPU realised. Similarly,ZipraandZanla never but theexpected spiritof cooperationwas alliance knownasthePatriotic Front(PF), The nationalistgroupsfragmented and In thecarefully monitored electionof 4 wasadismalfailure.The effort Indeed, whiteSmith, facingawholesale emigra- Soon after, theeconomysoared, wages in- ZIMBABWE••History A yearlater, government officials hadripped and voter turnoutwas poor,soMugabe won. wascharacterisedhowever, bygeneral apathy million antipoverty programme. Theelection, elections due,Mugabe revealed aUS$160- of inZimbabwe. Marxism parliament voted againsttheimplementation despite Mugabe’spersistence, members of immediately alowprofile. sought In1990, withZUMsination attempt andthose ties ZUM candidate, waswoundedinan assas- victory. Soonafterwards, Patrick Kombayi,a topostalandslide enabledever, ZANU–PF A gerrymander engineered byMugabe,how- andamultipartydemocraticstate. enterprise Movement (ZUM), which promoted free lenged bythenewlyformedZimbabweUnity this direction. foreign exchange andtrade,were steps in the impositionof strictcontrolsoncurrency, towhites, and seats 20parliamentary teed In 1988theabolitionof thelaw thatguaran- dreamdent Mugabe’sMarxist remained alive. inneighbouring countries,Presi- socialism Despite tragicexperimentswithone-party TaxesIncreasing &Tensions hadbegun. Zimbabwe’s one-partystate the underlyingdiscontent –undertherug. masterfully thematter sweeping –butnot PF) andamnestyforthedissidents,thereby confederation (calledZANU– ZAPU–ZANU guaranteed hissafe return. Talks resulted ina erupt intocivilwar)publiclyrelented and Mugabe (realising thestrife threatened to babweans were forcedshut. itseyes.TheeyesofMr Mugabe closed Zim- slaughtered. Aworldthatwaseager torevere of civilians,sometimesentire villages, were rific massacres inwhich tens of thousands to rootoutdissidents.Theresult washor- members were of ZAPU eliminated inorder villagers were gunneddownandprominent gade launched anorgy of killing;innocent early 1983toquellthedisturbances.Thebri- the NorthKorean–trained FifthBrigadein areas of Matabeleland, andMugabe deployed ment. Guerrillaactivityresumed inZAPU ofwas accused plottingagainstthe govern- leaderNkomo armed conflict,andtheZAPU (mostlybyNdebele)escalated into and ZAPU (runmostlybyShona people) ZANU between In the 1990 elections, ZANU–PF waschal- In the1990elections,ZANU–PF In 1995,withhispopularitywaning and Nkomo, meanwhile,fledtoEnglanduntil

685 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE taxes, thenormallypassive Zimbabweans address theproblems orfaceatwo-day work Unions (ZCTU) calledon the government to ensued. TheZimbabwe Congress of Trade protesters againtooktothestreets andrioting InHarare,goods, includingbasic foodstuffs. immediate pricehikesports caused formost 50% of itsvalue. Theincreased costof im- were incensed. dropped. Thepresident andhisministers increase andmandated thatthefuelpricebe ment soonrejected income-tax theproposed by firingtear gasintothecrowds.Theparlia- police attempted tohaltthedemonstration demonstration of disapproval, butinHarare, the country,allcolours united inapeaceful rebelled andboycotted work.Throughout unsustainable. They levies found thenewtax announced. and anincrease inincomeandfueltaxes was moneyfortheveterans,gabe hastilypromised Mugabe atthe1997Heroes’ Dayrally.Mu- mands culminated with inaconfrontation theirde- compensation; ing theirrightful Veterans began demonstratinganddemand- Fund. off theWarVictims’Compensation 686 Already heavily burdenedbyexcessive Meanwhile, theZimbabwedollarlost over ‘orthodox economicpolicies’andtoprintmoneywhenhewantsto.‘orthodox 1300% andsomewarnitmaygoto3000%,whilethepresident haspromisedtonolongerfollow dollars printed topaysalariesandtheIMF(International MonetaryFund). Inflationhastopped economic devastationon organisations,corrupt andinefficientstate-run thecurrency fixed, ‘landreform’ extended with ofmassive militaryexpenseswasanotherheftyblowtothesufferingburden economy. generalsandotherbigshots.Republic ofCongo,ostensibly The to appeaseandfundparty payments, Zimbabwe’scurrency crashed. was bothtoimprove hiswaningpopularityandplacate angrywarvets. Withinadayafter the corruption.They remainedby rulingparty aforcetorivalthePresident’s, andhisfinancialmove dollars ofunbudgeted gratuitiestowarveterans. The veterans dry hadseentheirfundsucked it’s suddenlysuperprofitable. awhoppingUS$400.Beware ofcounterfeiterswhich, officially,atthetimeofwritingwasworth – a newsetofnotes. Todaythere ZW$100,000,000) isanewZW$100,000note (formerlyworth the government changedcurrencies, loppingthree zeroes fromtheoldcurrency and introducing to ZW$400,000andthebiggestbanknote wasZW$100,000note (or25cents).That samemonth rate)healthiest inAfrica. ZW$2.60).InJuly2006,theparallel (ormarket wasUS$1 (US$1wasworth the Zimbabwedollarwasstillvery strongagainsttheworld’smajorcurrencies andoneofthe How diditcometothis? MONEY, MONEY–IT’SALMOSTFUNNY The lastfive economicpolicies,withfundsthrownat yearshasseenastringofantimarket In 1998MugabesentZimbabweantroopstobackgovernment soldiersintheDemocratic Zimbabwe’s declinebeganinearnestlate 1997whenPresident Mugabe paidbillionsof ZW$1.50.By1990,after 10veryIn 1980US$1wasworth successfulyearsofindependence, ZIMBABWE •• History ZIMBABWE ••History all otherindustriesthatrelied onagriculture, andtrillionsoflocal happened. and waited forademonstrationthatnever March 1998.Riotpolicecameoutinforce daunted, workers homeon3and4 stayed ‘stern action’iftheboycottwentahead.Un- stoppage. Thegovernment simplythreatened majority of educated ahighly populace wanted election wasduelatertary thatyear. real strength at theballotbox. Aparliamen- first defeat anditnotified himof MDC’svery thumbs downbythepeople. ItwasMugabe’s the president’s constitutionwasgiven the ofthe fullweight statemediaandTreasury – constitution. Three months later –anddespite Moyo, ledthepresident’s campaignforanew Mugabe’s chief propagandaarchitect, Jonathan est successledtoitsultimate defeat. In2000 Mugabe’s era. Ironically,theMDC’sgreat- new hopeandreal opportunityfortheendof forworkers’party fighting interests. eral, stated hewouldleadasocialdemocratic (MDC). Morgan Tsvangirai, gen- thesecretary launch the Movement forDemocraticChange attendedIn 1999thousands aZCTUrallyto astheOpposition Life The tide had turned and it seemed aclear The tide had turnedandit seemed The arrivalof waves theMDCbrought of lonelyplanet.com being damnedbytheUSandEuropeanUnion programme. Despite this,andtheelection tion, andachaotic anddestructive landreform defeat withwaves of violence,voter intimida- change. Mugaberesponded tothethreat of lonelyplanet.com where priorto2000 70%of thebest landwas that land reform inZimbabwe, wasnecessary can farmers. commercial farmers forresettlement byAfri- began violentlyconfiscatinglandfrom white populationandpacify warvetspeasant he Hoping towinthesupportof themajority MDC, thepresident playedtheracecard. furious thatwhite farmers hadsupported the With theeconomyindire straitsandMugabe LandFiasco The the well-armedstate. cerned withfeeding theirfamiliesthanfighting government, butpeopleappearmore con- protests are continually plannedagainstthe Mass hetooisanti-senate). says Mutambara faction(though thepro-Senate Mutambara, scholar, Arthur the MDC,andformerRhodes Tsvangirai factionof controlledtheanti-senate the ‘elections’.Attimeof writing Morgan the oppositionover whetherornottocontest theacrimoniousdivisionof alsosaw the senate arm forMugabetooffer politicalpatronage, constitution wastocreate asenate. Another of hischoice. Part of thechanges madeinthe constitution andpave thewayforasuccessor hence wintheabilitytochange Zimbabwe’s tostealzen enough atwo-thirdsmajority and victoryinthe2005elections,butwasbra- teed The result wasthatMugabenotonlyguaran- votersmillion ghost were created ontherole. twotreasonwent through trials,anduptoone leader of theopposition,Morgan Tsvangirai, with food(andthreatened withnofood),the voters were nated bought print,radioandTV, thestate domi- (bombedinonecase), closed to readjust theplayingfield.Newspapers were propaganda networkshadfive years since2000 and Mugabeandhissecurity was notsoclose. voters turnedaway,wasstolenbyMugabe. independent monitors andhuge numbers of backed of byanewset repressive laws,withno election marred byviolenceandintimidation, the country’spresidential elections.Again, an greaterrule wasundereven threat during mere Twoyears later fourseats. Mugabe’s as ‘neitherfree norfair’,theMDClostbya The next parliamentary election–in2005 The nextparliamentary Few willdisagree independentobservers ZIMBABWE••TheCulture est number of inthe orphans(per capita) to life. Zimbabwe hasthehigh- Forinstance, much sumsuptheZimbabwean approach your life (overnight be). This pretty ifneed fix it.Ifyoucan’t it,live withit,or,change ‘make aplan’canbedefinedas:Ifit’sbroke, babwe, theSouthernA stoicism reminiscent of bygoneeras.InZim- white orin-between, theyhave aphilosophic Zimbabweans are fascinating.Whetherblack, NationalPsyche The THE CULTURE listtotop. independence’ andthat’satough most draconianmeasure introducedsince called,‘the appealing tothecourts.Ithasbeen expropriated from propertyhasbeen whose all freehold title topropertyandbars those government’s amendedconstitutioncancels eign exchange thecountrystillearns.And which produceswhatlittlefor-ing sector, Zimbabwe’shis intention min- tonationalise lonial days. morethemselves suffering than duringco- toZimbabweans,much whonowfind use which itemerged. noneof However, thisis current tragedy intothecolonialcontext from 69 milliontonnesin2005. has fallenfrom262milliontonnesin2000to ofthe mainstay foreign currency earnings– wildlife topoaching. Tobacco production– From 2001to2003,Zimbabwe lost20%of its the entire populationdependentonfoodaid. plummeted by60%,leaving one-quarter of Production of meal,maize,has thestaple middle of 2006farminvasions continued. farmers back,butinreality asrecently asthe tion thatitmaybetimetoinvite somewhite From timetovariousministers men- then fled,leaving millionsof acres of landidle. machinery andirrigationsystems,houses, farm invaders simplystolecrops,stripped were meanttheirefforts invain.Other tiliser criticalshortages andfer-though of fuel,seed farmers attempted toworktheirnewland, faithfuls andforeign friends.Somegenuine wasgiven toministers,farmers. Land party workers were killed,alongwithscores of white to dowithpower. Hundreds of blackfarm distributionofwith equitable land,andmuch farmers. ButMugabe’spolicyhadlittletodo owned byaround4000white commercial It is,of toputZimbabwe’s necessary course, The result absolutely hasbeen devastating. Most recently, MrMugabehasreiterated frican expression to

687 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE average life wasnearly 60years; expectancy under 18years old.Onlyafew years ago,the areas; while around40%of thepopulationis About 65%of thepopulation lives inrural Population somewhere inbetween. gentle demeanour. –lies Thetruth–asever that Zimbabweanstodayare payingfortheir since2001.Otherscoup onceaweek argue was WestAfricathere wouldhave a been relatively low.Localshere thatifthis laugh Zimbabweans,crimeremainsfor everyday the rest (fromthereality of themasses). who live belowthepoverty line;escapismfor forthemasses orescapism.Survival survival years. TodayZimbabwe’slifestyle isoneof health –have reversed allbeen inthelastfive independence –life education, expectancy, nately great since gainsmadeineverything lifestylecomfortable foralmostall.Unfortu- rates shouldallowfornothinglessthana class climate, rich soil,andleading education Zimbabwe’s wonderfulinfrastructure, world- Daily Life to theirsurvival. tailored beautyandwonderfulclimate iskey country foritsabundant mixof wildand generosity, combinedwithalove of their family. Thiskindof strength mental and orphans are stillcared forbytheextended yet despite aneconomiccrisis,90%of these world –almostoneinthree children –and 688 Somehow, despite the immense hardship Somehow, despite theimmense possible time’. poverty, deprivationanddestitution’. Itwas,saidtheUN,‘theworst possiblethingattheworst weans, indirectly affected oneoutoffive Zimbabweans,and had leftthecountry‘deeperin said thenationwide operationhaddestroyedthehomes and/orlivelihood of700,000Zimbab- areas where itcontrolledfood. and largely oppositionareas. cities,thegovernment Byde-urbanising could sendpeopletorural againstdenselypopulated, strike apre-emptive by anymeasure –wasmaking adictatorship is thatafter successfulrevolutions inUkraineand Georgia, theZimbabweangovernment –now tion wastocleanup‘achaoticstate ofaffairs’intheinformalsector. A more widelyheldview winter, theoperationbroughtalmostonemillionZimbabweansclosertotheirknees. targetedparticularly thepoor. Comingontopofmassive unemploymentandinthemidstof upstreet children.and locking The operation–named Murambatsvina (or‘drive outthetrash’)– three andhomes,arbitrarilyarresting coldmonthsdestroyedurbanmarkets vendors, market In May2005theZimbabweangovernment beganademolitioncampaignthatover thenext OPERATION ‘DRIVEOUTTHETRASH’ The result wasdevastating. released Areport byaUnited Nation’sSpecial EnvoytoZimbabwe President Mugabesaidhewanted peopletoreturn totheirruralhomes,andthattheopera- ZIMBABWE •• Sport ZIMBABWE ••Sport Tatenda Taibu of wasmadecaptain theteam progressing on theworldstage. Mostrecently, eral leadingblackplayers andanoverall team gaining increasing exposure onthebackof sev- whites –wasinthelate 1990sandearly2000s ety, itisoften sulliedbygreed andcorruption. the people. Unfortunately, like therest of soci- things thatregularly putssmilesonthefacesof Nations Cupandfootballtodayisoneof afew Zimbabwequalifiedforthe2006African event. tral visitors wouldbewelcomedtothisintense (anywhere 5000and40,000)neu- between regularlying passion.Stadiums filltocapacity Football isthecountry’slonenationalsport- SPORT white Zimbabweans. are more elephantsinZimbabwetodaythan country. Localwhites todayjoke thatthere Africans (25,000)are scattered aroundthe Asians (10,000),andmixed Europeansand of thefarsouth.Europeans(18,000),plus (or Hlengwe)of theLowveld, andtheVenda people of theupperKariba area, theShangaan are theTonga(orBatonga) dividedbetween about 2.3millionare Ndebele. Theremainder million belongtovariousShona groupsand Taibu ledayoungandterribly inexperienced the ‘deathof democracy’andwere banned. boycotted theWorldCupgamesbemoaning after someof theplayers (white andblack) 40 years. oftoday, withtheonslaught AIDS,it’sabout Most Zimbabweansare of origin; 9.8 Bantu Cricket atfirst –although onlyplayedby lonelyplanet.com The majority of Zimbabweansare Christian, RELIGION withinthesport. citing powerstruggles team withcourage andskill,butquitin2005, lonelyplanet.com body of stories,legends, songs andpoetry, oraltraditions perpetuatedAlthough alarge Literature rica, see p52 . keep poppingbackuphere andthere. do toZimbabweans, thestalls as ametaphor bwe, offering allmannerof handicrafts.But, markets thatlinedthemainroadsof Zimba- stroyed theubiquitousstreet-side and stalls batsvina (see opposite ), theGovernment de- allowed to). anywhere andeverywhere (solongasthey’re singoract,theydoit weave, sculpt,carve, some way:whethertheyknit,embroider, their lives. AllZimbabweansare cre ative in for visitors thelocalsandlearnabout tomeet pressions of Zimbabweandawonderfulway dance,art,andsculpturepoetry, are great ex- Zimbabwe’s festivals andfairs, live music, &CRAFTS ARTS was themostimmoralof sell-outs. know wehave agovernment wholistens.’ It have different ideasaboutthiscountry must ofdraw attention toconcerns.Those uswho ment thatwemustsupport,interact withand camerasthat,‘weknowwehave agovern-TV Zimbabwe Councilof Churches toldnational head of thedelegationandpresident of the Attheendof the themeeting their nerve. to discuss of thesuffering Zimbabweans. was aGod-given opportunityforchurch leaders andtheworld’sfastest-fallingtality, economy,it inchild rises mor-ancy forwomen,thehighest agreed. Inacountrywiththelowestlife expect- Mugabe. Inmid-2006thepresident finally church leaders have President triedtomeet themselves togovernment! Foryears concerned churchingly, perhaps,senior leaders are tying tying themselves totheChurch. Mostworry- gion, more andmore government ministers are leading toanincrease infaithandfraud. areas, where mercilesseconomic timesare toms are especiallyinrural stillpractised, traditionalspiritualbeliefsandcus- although For informationonmusicinSouthern Af- Unfortunately, duringOperationMuram- thechurchSomehow, though, leaders lost Meanwhile, noticingthisdrive towardsreli- ZIMBABWE••Religion on theexperiencesof blacksunder awhite traditions, myths andfocused andfolktales, lies within thetropicsandconsists of highveld the sizeof Englandandhalf asbigTexas. It three Zimbabweisroughly times Landlocked Land The ENVIRONMENT which tooversee familyaffairs. of themas‘thrones’from used households were allowedtositonthemandmaleheads a singlepieceof wood.Historically,onlymen of western Kariba, from Lake are alsocarved reach intheTongaculture level theirhighest brewingmilk andeven yeastbeer. carrying,preparing curdled cooking, serving, life.role ineveryday Theyare forstorage, used designed potshave alwaysplayedapractical anenduringartform.Intricately has been itional crafts,such ascrochet andbatik. wean womenhave nontrad- alsodeveloped and pliabletree barkknownas mats andclothingfromstrandsof thesoft the plateau. Theywere alsomakingblankets, ing garmentsfromwildcottonthatgrew on India, Zimbabweanswere spinningandweav- Even before Arabtraders clothfrom brought Traditional Crafts and thehumorous the war-inspired nowned writer isChenjeraiHove, whowrote ond Chimurenga. Anotherinternationally re- Harvest of Thorns, Zimbabwean writer Shimmer Chinodyafor Commonwealth PrizeforLiterature wentto tobuildanewsociety.The1992 the struggles and ature ontheliberationeffort hasfocused Country was Stanlake Samkange’s regime. Thefirst treatise onthistopic serious was The first Ndebelenovel, publishedin1957, (in Shona) of didn’t appearinprintuntilthepublication the first written worksbyblackauthors ning of theendof white ruleinAfrica. neighbour byguerrillas,andthenthebegin- of thedeathof asmallboywhowitnesses his Godwin, isanengrossingbook.It’sthestory Wooden stools, whose intricate decorations Wooden stools,whose Pottery, another traditionalfemale activity, Since independence,Zimbabweanliter- Subsequent worksdealtwithpre-colonialSubsequent Mukiwa Umthawakazi, (1966). (A White BoyinAfrica),byPeter Feso, Bones, anepicnovel of theSec- bySMutswairo,in1956. byPSMahlangu. Shebeen Tales thetragic On Trial forMy On Trial gudza . Shadows . Zimbab- 689

ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE larger animalpopulations, andasmuch variety offer Zimbabwe’s nationalparksandreserves National Parks of succulent tropicalflowers andpalms. Bula wayo and Mutare inOctober),andahost flowers burythestreetsdas (whose of Harare, andNovember), September between jacaran- verse speciesof wildflowers (thatbloom aloes, like euphorbias resembling pipeorgans, 30di- and baobabs.Amongthisare toweringcactus- southeast are characterised bythornyscrub while thedrierlowlandsof thesouthand savanna) andmiombo(dryopenwoodland), eau iscovered withbushveld (thornyacacia babwe. Most of thecentralandwestern plat- The vegetation Zim- isuniformthroughout PLANTS the world’seaglespecies. Park, forexample,ishometoone-thirdof stripe-cheeked bulbuls.Matobo National and tails fluff try, includingbuff-spotted dreds of birdspeciesfoundallover thecoun- powerful tigerfish. while anglers love putupbythe thefight fish; mostvisitors prefer bream ontheirplate, dams andlakes are hometo117speciesof meleons andleglesssnake lizards.Therivers, 2m long.Otherreptiles includegeckos, cha- monitors), docilecreatures thatare often over The largest lizardsare theleguans(orwater life Guide( p69 ) are represented inZimbabwe. Most of intheWild- theanimalshighlighted ANIMALS Wildlife the northernendof therange. to2592mnear peak,Nyangani,rises highest Zimbabwe–Mozambique border. Zimbabwe’s which straddles the Highlands, the Eastern imperceptibly towardstheLimpopoRiver. savannalevel of theSave slopingalmost Basin, lowveld of southernZimbabwe ismainlythe of smoothrockknownas (small rockyhills)andbaldknob-like domes characterised bybushveld dotted withkopjes Limpopo-Save River systems. and theZambezi marks thedividebetween northeast tosouthwestacross thecountry 1700m above Alowridge level. running sea plateaus 900mand and middleveld between 690 The northwestconsistsmostlyof plateaus, Twitchers willbedelighted withthehun- The predominant region mountainous is ZIMBABWE ••Environment dwalas . Thehot,dry parks are validfor24hours ifyou’re just hunters.the nationalparkscomesthrough themainsourceof revenueSecondly, nowfor system hasitsdifficulties. and thereservations facilities are becomingincreasingly shabby, artificially pumpedwater holesoften godry, fold. Firstly, problems,eg parksfaceconstant parks are atanall-timelow.Theresult istwo- all. Foreign visitors toZimbabwe’s national far bigger problem. Thatis,norevenue at national parks,buttodaytheparksfacea of fees paidbyforeigners endedupbackin thatthemajority guaranteed It wasnever VISITING PARKS &RESERVES profitable lodges andreserves. ‘smash andgrab’ –isshiftingfromfarmsto chaotic landreform –which isnowmore a seizures continue. ThefocusinZimbabwe’s muchhowever, of thisisunderthreat asland increase thepercentage considerably. Sadly, well asrecreational parks–allof which would as as gameranches andnature conservancies, includeprivately protecteddoesn’t areas such tected, areas. innational parks orsafari This babwe’s surfacearea isprotected, orsemipro- Some13%of toyourself.) Zim- and reserves of tourists,youwillhave stretches of theparks Africa.Eastern (Andwiththecurrent paucity of species,asmostcountriesinSouthernand has avehicle andusually tolerate discreet or parkofficials realise that noteveryone though of afew years ago. the relatively cheap experience Africansafari Zimbabwe isnolonger certainly now, though boxed texts, p684 and p686 ), this matters little US dollars. Given the thecurrency issues (see in parks. Youcanexpecttopayforall safaris life drives, which are offered bythenational such horse ridingandwild- aswalkingsafaris, bikes are notallowedintheparks. are free. Forobvious safety reasons, motor- length of inthepark);othervehicles yourstay US$10 pervehicle perentry(ievalidforthe vehicles: withmore pay those thansixseats fee isfor Theonlystandard tions fordetails). therelevant sec- fees varyforeach park(see extra fee atthegate ondeparture. Admission days,youmustpayan longerstay thanseven inside theparkforthatamountof time. Ifyou days ifyouhave pre-booked accommodation visiting fortheday,butvaliduptoseven Hitching isforbiddeninall nationalparks, Zimbabwe isfamedforsomerare activities, Admission fees toallgovernment-run lonelyplanet.com den insideallparks. not recommended. anddogsare Cats forbid- hitchingthe park.However, inZimbabweis informal hitching thatoriginates fromoutside lonelyplanet.com revenue. Sadlythisalluring revenue stream shoot abull elephant,providing badly needed Currently, hunters payabout US$20,000to the current number)and trophy hunting. numbers couldbe reduced byculling(tohalf by farmers. and thatpopularwater holesare often drained that have frequented alwaysbeen byelephants claim thatcropsare often planted inareas ofthousands hectares of crops.Butothers have already proven amenacebydestroying Valley Zambezi habits. Forinstance, elephants ofecological disaster because theirdestructive gered, but accordingtosomethecountryfaces Zimbabwe’s 70,000elephantsare notendan- THE ELEPHANT ‘PROBLEM’ nomic crises. and Zimbabwe’scontinuedpoliticaleco- land-reform programme(thatisongoing) exacerbated bythefrenzied andanarchic slash-and-burn farming–have greatly been tion, urbansprawl,soilerosion,poaching, and tries inSouthernAfrican–eglanddegrada- The usualecologicalproblemsfacedbycoun- Environmental Issues & Wildlife Zimbabwe (NPWZ). lodges andcampsites runbyNationalParks Parks offices. touroperatorstion through ortheNational per day,andyoucanbookyouraccommoda- or gently pastthem. paddlingright ronment isabout walkingwiththeanimals– Pools ( p705 riverside envi- ) anditsZambezi sceneryandMana mountain of-the-world power. Chimanimani( p712 ) haslushtop- consideredlong been thecentre of spiritual a vastamountof predators andbirds.Ithas existancientcaveAmong these paintingsand arre landscapeof roundbalancingboulders. Matobo100 canbeseen. ( p722 ) hasabiz- leftinAfrica–herdsofsanctuaries upto and forbeingoneof thefew great elephant species of animalsand400species of birds) is well-knownforitsabundantwildlife (100 its ownspecialattraction:Hwange ( p723 ) Each ofEach Zimbabwe’snationalparkshas Some have suggested even thatelephant See p695 forinformationaboutbooking Park entryfees range fromUS$5toUS$20 ZIMBABWE••Environment Zimbabwe’s ecological problems, contact Zimbabwe’s ecologicalproblems, contact thechange? tosee longenough survive ful questionnow is canZimbabwe’swildlife ofthe mainstay arecovery. thefear- However, babwe. Tourism,withagriculture, wouldbe inZim- went, thingswouldquicklynormalise there isgoodreason thatifMugabe tobelieve thatistherean asset tobestripped. isconsideredand free –naturalasset justthat: as fairgame. Theresult isthatthisprecious – fromfarmstomininglodges areassets seen for allamongministers andpartyheavies, as land-reform programmehasbecomeafree lostuntiltoday.Zimbabwe’s again hasbeen expertsestimate number though thatthesame ing. There are nofigures beyondthistime, bwe lostatleast20%of its wildlife topoach- being unravelled. From2001to2003,Zimba- foreign sources. operators,commercial safari aswellfrom on sporthuntingandtourismconcessionsto Campfire’s revenue isderived fromleases cluding rhinos–were rising.About 90%of and populationsof endangered species–in- bled. Bymid-2001poaching hadalsoslowed dou- Zimbabwe dedicated toconservation tion prospered andtheamountof land in its inceptionto2000,Campfire participa- farmers, backintothecommunities.From wildlife tosubsistence hadbecomeanuisance from huntingoncommunallands,where enous Resources).Thischannelled revenue Areas Management ProgrammeforIndig- ing gave toCampfire (theCommunal rise ment’s ‘shoottokill’policycombatpoach- In 1989increasing disquietover thegovern- CONSERVATION EFFORTS out thenewconvention). are running wildinZimbabwe (withorwith- theboxed(see text, p68 ). Inreality, poachers slaughtering more of endangered these beasts give poachers illegally thegreen tostart light thiswill believe Conservationists ral causes. already collected natu- andstockpiledthrough ivory Africancountriestosell and Eastern otherSouthern lowed Zimbabwe and several ternational TradeinEndangered Species)al- market. backgroundentering the no conservation has ledtomore andmore operators with If you’re interested inlearning more about Despite Zimbabwe’srelentless problems, Unfortunately allthisgoodworkisnow In late 2002Cites (theConvention onIn-

691 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE gravy only. nyama Eastern Highlands, thebestisexported. An Highlands, Eastern juices andsoft drinksare widelyavailable. dozens of people. Harare faced acholera outbreak thatkilled treat thewater. Theresult was thatin2005–06, partsandchemicalsability tobuyessential to shortage of foreign currency anin- hasmeant drink. As acritical sector, with basicallyevery The water inZimbabweisnolonger safe to NONALCOHOLIC DRINKS Drinks could change attheblack-market rate). more likely tocostUS$60thanUS$15(ifyou ors willmeananexquisite three-course mealis the poorcurrency conversion forcedonvisit- the restaurants inHarare are excellent,though average Europeandishes.Generally serving tourist hotels harbourexpensive restaurants restaurants offer decentvegetarian options.All a decentcoffee. Mostmid-toupper-range localadviceifyouwanttofind you willneed cuisine,though andcontinental Lebanese ese, Theremetal!). Indian,Japan- isgoodChinese, one suediftheirchild cutthemselves onjagged warned, theswingsare fromanerawhenno be ful gardensandswingsforkids(though of restaurants, mostlyinhomeswithbeauti- Highlands. in theEastern Kariba,Lake andtroutfromrivers anddams whitebait-like dried where. Popularfish includebream andthe good meatremains available nearlyevery- great producers beef and,despite thedecline, ponent ismeat(or com- most localsare on.Thesecond raised staple as stodgyAfricandishes,such asthedietary andfattychips (Frencheggs fries)–aswell bland Britishfaregreasy sausages, –soggy Zimbabwean cuisineismostlythelegacyof Food FOOD &DRINK the protection of endangered species. involved intheprevention of soilerosion and about theenvironmentandassistsprojects .org) Wildlife &EnvironmentZimbabwe 692 Zimbabwe wasonceoneof theworld’s Plastic bottlesof mineralwater, boxed fruit Although tea andcoffee areAlthough grown inthe The citiesandbigger townsoffer avariety . Thisorganisation educates Zimbabweans HARARE sadza, ismore likely tobe thewhite maizemealporridge nyama kapenta, ), though ), though sadza bothplentifulin (www.zimwild with meat sadza ne though someofthough offer thebestsafaris South local wines–importedatUS$15, winesstart like itornot,youmayhave toexperience the winery isMukuyu,nearMarondera. And of Harare. Thelargest andmostrenowned wine industry,particularlyeastandsoutheast alimited sustain growing, Zimbabwedoes bezi andBohlinger lagers are superb. thedomesticallybrewed though Castle, Zam- popular brandistheSouthAfrican–owned cold.A drink islager, which isalwaysserved social scene. halls,andisdistinctlyamale township beer out punch. It’ssoldmainlyinroadsideand deceptively mellowbuild-uptotheknock- vomit, theconsistency of thingruel anda be knownasscuds,ithastheappearanceof ers which, after the1991GulfWar,cameto upinlarge plasticcontain- cheer’. Served ofas itsadvertising is‘thebeer good asserts, The tippleof isChibuku themasses ALCOHOLIC DRINKS and available thecountry. throughout Nyangatea isprettymum-quality stuff, good and 90%chicory. itisn’ttheopti- Although a revolting blendmadeof coffee 10%instant few knowhowtomake it), while others sell real localorimported coffee (though serve increasing numberof cafésandrestaurants walks of life. Shopping in andaroundRobert mix of workers office andshoppers fromall The relatively smallcity centre is busy, a buildingsranging fromcooltoquirky. rise fairly orderlystreets of ‘town’withitshigh- ’80s or’90s. you’ve stepped backintothe’50s, ’60s,’70s, tion –inanyonedayyoucanfeel asthough days. several most wearyandjadedtravellers for satisfied attractionsandrestaurantsenough tokeep HarareAfrican cities(egLusaka), hasjust More attractive thanmostotherregional Harare andheartof isthecapital thenation. % HARARE the price. African andAustralianwinesincludedin The beer you will more commonly see and youwillmoreThe beer commonlysee Although theclimateAlthough isn’tsuited togrape Most travellers willspend theirtimeinthe Harare isa bizarre mix of visualinforma- 04 / pop 2million lonelyplanet.com , which, spares. marketsother Eastern andoutletsforcar andclothesshopsfrom shops, cheap shoe Mugabe Stismore hecticwithIndianfabric lonelyplanet.com There are really onlyahandful of main routes; the eastern partof thecity,Africa UnitySq. and squares tothecentre close including, in tion. There are pretty, several shadygardens Gardens andtheNational Galleryatthisjunc- tion. Thisistheheartof thecity,withHarare the absolute centre inanorthtosouthdirec- you gowest.JuliusNyerere Waycutsthrough Mutare RdifyougoeastorBulawayo Rdif thecentrethrough of Harare –itmorphs into suburbs. the industrialarea isinthesouthwestern andlow-densitysuburbs,while both high- Rd. Therest of Harare sprawlsoutwardsin the bustlingarea southwestof RobertMugabe Harare’s nightlife, are seedier concentrated in Cheaper shops andmarkets, andmuch of Samora Machel andJosiahTongogaraAves. eateries are dotted around thearea between Mugabe Rd,whileclassierhomes,shopsand are SamoraMachel between Ave andRobert decent shops,restaurants, bars andbanks compact andeasytoget aroundonfoot.Most system.cated Butthecityis one-way traffic byacompli- two grids,andfurtherconfused The citycentre isformedbythecollisionof ORIENTATION withaslittletwotomatoes. even upturn boxes tocreate afresh – producestall feel where peoplepromenade,sitandchat, or and you’llfindatimelessvibrantAfrican areas’,go, the‘high-density ortownships, difference toone’sprospects. tomakelounge alotof notseem suite does weekend. Waitingwithabed oranentire rural areas –eitherforgoodorjustthe hopefuls waitingpatientlyforridestotheir with designated pick-upspotsandhordesof dressed school kids. maids, gentlemen onbicyclesandsnappily themselves, are busywithknittinguniformed handsome grass-and-tree-lined roads,which out over wallsonto house-concealing high, plete withtennis courtsandpools)spilling which heave withoversized gardens(com- urban streets (knownas‘lowdensity’areas) Contrast thiswiththequiet,green sub- Samora Machel Ave cutsfromeasttowest But cuttotheplaceswhere visitors rarely The transitroutes outof townare dotted HARARE ••Orientation Ximex Mall, cnrAngwaSt&JasonMoyoAve)Ximex Mall, Kenneth Kaunda Ave) Kaunda Kenneth Ave) offers anexcellentselection. Kingston’s % It remains cheap. Shopping Centre, Fife Ave) is the centres, buttheonlyplacetodoityourself Dry cleaners can befoundinmostshopping Laundry Twin Arts Commercial Farmer’s Union Resources Internet Telco Internet Shop Quick NEasyInternet Café One StopInternet per hour. power are listed. Allcharge aroundUS$2 Afew withreliable phone andfaxservices. Most internet centres inHarare alsooffer Access Internet Police station Service AirRescue Medical Emergency Kingston’s healthy appetite. reference andis material, literatureAve) and ofAfrican anappealingselection Offers Book Café Bookshops INFORMATION Central Harare and somefuel). you amap(andhopefullydriver andcar… Your hotel ortravel agent willbeable togive Maps and SamoraMachel Ave. St,SimonMazorodzerowdale Rd,Second Rd other partsof Rd,Bor- Zimbabwe:Enterprise they leadawayfromthecitycentre andonto Its websiteisnotupdatedfrequently. forfree. andsubscribe Emailaisdadmin@cfu,co.zw Kariba). home toholidaysandtravel(especiallyforhouseboatson isgoodforallfromshippinggoods line classifiedsservice Civic Organisations and newslinks relevant toZimbabwe. Civic Organisationsandnewslinksrelevant withlinkstoNGOs, andotheractivities, to bushwalking fromlivemusic,festivalscovers everything andshopping informationandwhat’sonin Harare. Thesite up-to-date If youget luckyyoumayfindacompact 799224/5; Linquenda House, Nelson Mandela Ave)799224/5; LinquendaHouse,NelsonMandela Fife Avenue Laundrette (www.twinarts.co.zw) Reliable sourceof Reliable (www.twinarts.co.zw) (Map (Map pp696-7 ; Fife Ave ShoppingCentre, Fife (Map (Map pp696-7 St&JasonMoyo ; cnrSecond Mp pp696-7; (Map Mp pp696-7; (Map map at a service station. mapataservice . Otherwise, use yourhotel. use . Otherwise, the (Map (Map pp696-7 Ave); 60Speke placeforliterarybuffs with a (MARS; Mp pp696-7; (Map % % (www.cfu.co.zw) Theon- (www.cfu.co.zw)

(Map (Map pp696-7 ; Fife Ave 733033; cnrInezTce& 751263; Shop22, % 727540)

693 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE 694

Gweru (273km); Recreational Park(27km); (24km); LakeChivero Bulawayo (438km) To Lion&CheetahPark Lomagundi Kariba (353km) Chinhoyi (100km); Airport (2km); To CharlesPrince 4 6 Hampden 1 3 2 5 HARARE (1599m) Mt Glen Nora Bluff Hill Tynwald 34 HARARE Willowvale

Warren Park Rd Mt Hampden ainlAcie fZmaw. C4 National ArchivesofZimbabwe.. Mukuvisi Woodlands National Parks&WildlifeZimbabwe SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Tobacco Auctions...... National BotanicGardens...... EnvironmentalCentre...... Heroes' Acre...... Epworth BalancingRocks...... World TouchSafaris...... (see25) Trauma Centre...... South AfricanHighCommission... Sikiliza...... SafariLodges...... (see25) Pamushana &Nduna CentralReservationsOffice...... Namibian HighCommission...... Malawian HighCommission...... German Embassy...... Experience AfricaSafaris...... (see25) Botswana HighCommission......

Gleneagles Rd

AC Dr Harare Dr Gilchrist To Mazowe(24km); Sa Highfield

m 14 Mvurwi (86km)

Lochinvar ora Machel Ave Machel ora Mukuvisi Main St Mabelreign 10

Willowv Marlborough National

Stadium Sherwood Dr To Masvingo(279km)

Avonlea

River Milton Park ale Rd Quendon

Lytton Rd Ganges Rd Princes Lomagundi Rd Lomagundi

Waterfalls Coven

West

try Rd

Rd Ardbennie

Southerton

Highfield Rd Rd

Rd Suffolk 21

Bishop Gaul Ave 14 13 12 11 10 Ridgeview

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Simon Mazorodze Rd Rd West

A6 B4 C5 A5 D6 B4 B4 D3 B4 C3 B4 B4 B4

15 Rd

Second St Second Arundel Mbare George King

Waterfalls B Pleasant 2 Harare Dr Mount ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING Vistarama...... (see 26) Elite 100...... (see26) 7 Arts...... (see26) Reps Theatre...... Origins Nightclub...... (see33) Victoria 22...... Sopranos...... Shop Café...... (see29) Jaipur...... Italian Bakery...... (see26) DV8...... Drive ThroughRestaurant...... Celebration Centre...... Amanzi's...... York Lodge...... ml ol akakr og. B4 Small WorldBackpackersLodge.. 26

The

Sc Mt Pleasant Dr Pleasant Mt

35 hool Rd hool Ave 25 Alexandra

Map (pp696-7) See CentralHarare 1 Chase 7 To WildGeese

Harare St Lodge (1km) of Zimbabwe

Park

3 University Fifth St Fifth Train Station To Chitungwiza Harare 13 5 St Martins

Prospect Seke Rd Seke 20 (8km) 12

Dieppe Rd

Churchill Ave Churchill Teviotdal Gun Rd Alpes Hill e Rd

Vainona

Philadelphia

Airport Rd Airport 32

Borrowdale18 Rd Robert Mu Robert Seke Rd Seke

Highlands Samora Machel Samora

Borrowdale

Queensdale Racecourse

Hills Glenara Ave York

24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15

Victoria George Rd i

de Rd de

Dr Enterprise Rd Borrowdale Rd

gabe Rd gabe

Mukuvisi B4 C4 B4 B5 C4 C3 C4 C4 C5

Clyde Rd Clyde Ὀ

Airport Rd Airport 33

Kilwinning Rd Kilwinning

Chire Ridgeway North Ridgeway Ave 11

Glenara Ave Kew Borrowdale

Piers Rd St Patrick's Rd mba TRANSPORT SHOPPING uuh...... C5 Kumusha...... Glenara AvenueShopping Pioneer BusOffice...... (see35) Mbare MusikaBusTerminal...... Kukura KurerwaOffice...... (see35) Westgate ShoppingCentre...... Sam Levy'sVillage...... Newlands ShoppingCentre...... Centre...... Doon Estate...... Crystal Passions...... Chisipite ShoppingCentre...... Avondale ShoppingCentre...... Arundel Village...... North Dr 4 Montgomery 30

International

River 19

Hillside 31 Rd Steppes Chadcombe Airport Hatfield

Harare Rhodes

Rd Rolf Ave Dr Harare 4km 2miles 0 0 Greendale Rd Carr

ville

Chisipite Rd 17 ick Meadowlands

Coronation Arcturus Rd Ave To UmwinsivalleyCeramics(2km); Twentydales Rd Twentydales

North Rd Cr Enterprise Rd Gaydon 6 29

Ave Greendale

Msasa Park ea Mutare To Domboshawa(14km);

Ave 27 gh Rd 28

Drew Rd Ngomakurira (29km)

lonelyplanet.com Greystone Rd Helensvale Amby

Har

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Chiremba Rd Chiremba Chishawasha Catholic Patrick Mavros(4km); 9 Rd D To MibiziGame To Ruwa(11km); Mutare (250km) Glen Lorne Epworth 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 Mission (6km) Park (5km) Mandara Cleveland Glenwood B4 B5 A4 C3 C4 C4 D5 D3 D4 B4 Dam To Ruwa Dr (18km) is in a separate corridor downstairs. is inaseparatecorridor restante facilitiesare inthearcade,whileparceloffice 8-11.30amSat)Stampsalesandposte- Mon-Fri, Mazowe St&BainesAve)Mazowe byexpats. Recommended % drugs). ofkey (asithasashortage mended fortourists Leopold Takawira St)Largeandcentral,butnotrecom- online. more informationfromtravelcompanies, newspapersand 8am-noon Sat)Thisassociation iswaning,butyoufind Belgravia) Alsorecommended byexpats. though itwasbombedafewthough years backand most popularnewspaperwasthe gether withtheonlydailynewspapers. The to- station, state runstheradioandloneTV Zimbabwe’s mediaisheavily controlled.The Media lonelyplanet.com reservations office reservations National Parks &WildlifeZimbabwe central PublicityAssociation Harare thisoffice. contact AveNelson Mandela &First yourvisa, St)To extend pp696-7; of ImmigrationControl Department Information Tourist your hotel. were andgutted longago,souse vandalised Most publictelephones alongthemainstreets Telephone postoffice Main Post currency problems andchanging money. and p686 forinformation about Zimbabwe’s theboxedthe lowestbankrate. See texts, p684 yourcreditIf youuse cardyouwillbebilledat Money Trauma Centre Hospital Parirenyatwa Avenues Clinic pharmaciesareNight listed inthe Services Medical programmes inEnglish,Shona andNdebele. propaganda), international newsandmusic broadcasts nationalnews(mainlygovernment is apart-ownerof the Intelligence Organisation –CIO –Central recentlythough itwasalleged thatZimbabwe’s and inpartThursday’s Friday’s isallowedthrough sent bythegovernment. closed has sincebeen Dis- 781810; Second St; 781810; Second % 791913; 1stfl,LinquendaHouse,cnr Mp pp696-7; (Map Mp p694; (Map (Map (Map pp696-7 ; InezTce; HARARE ••Dangers&Annoyances Mp p694; (Map h (Map (Map pp696-7 ; 8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon &1-4pmMon-Fri, Financial Gazette % Financial Gazette % Mp pp696-7; (Map 700666/815; LanarkRd, % 251180-99; cnr 706077; fax (Map (Map % Independent h Daily News, Herald 701555; 8am-4pm ). TV ). TV (al- .

town, so take ataxi. town, sotake from andafairhike end oftheNationalBotanicGardens, are availablehere. It’snearthenorthern parks andreserves relating toZimbabwe’snational accommodation bookings Dr; Sandringham 726089; [email protected]; cnrBorrowdaleRd& .co.zw; Kenilworth Gardens, Newlands) Gardens, Kenilworth .co.zw; about Zimbabweingeneral. 1 UnionAve; % Rd; admission US$3; this 1935, in Founded ofZimbabwe National Archives SIGHTS generous. safe for the visitor,andlocalsendlessly in foreign press, thecountryissurprisingly compared withthewayZimbabweisfeatured dent Mugabe–thisisacrime).Nonetheless, views (particularlyiftheyare criticalof Presi- yourpolitical tempt youtoopenlyespouse directed atvisitors, thisshouldnot though under yourfeet. are intheboot, orifnotpossible,safely locked put theirbaggage. As ensure ever, yourbags them whohaslefttheairportandwhere they who workwithcohorts attheairportwhotell Crips St)hasbecomeafavourite forrobbers, Rdand the airport.‘Coca-Colacorner’(Seke robberies atbars andnightclubs. and carjackingare asare bothontherise, snatchingas safe asitoncewas.Itisnot.Bag would befoolish tothinkZimbabwetodayis low. Mostcrimeremains it petty,though sion, Zimbabwe’s crimerates are impressively Given rates of unemploymentandsuppres- DANGERS &ANNOYANCES World TouchSafaris (Map Sikiliza p694 Travel Rennies [email protected]; Ave, 24Cleveland Park) Milton &Tours Travel Premier on tours of Zimbabwe,see p731 . lodges andlocalknowledge. Forinformation The followingare safaris, goodforallflights, Agencies Travel Authority Zimbabwe Tourism 3 Rye Hill Rd,Greystone Park)3 RyeHill Pleasant) Shop37,ArundelVillage,Mount [email protected]; None of theinternal politicalhostilities are Be particularlycareful whencomingfrom Be 758712; fax 758826; www.zimbabwetourism.co.zw; 758712; fax758826;www.zimbabwetourism.co.zw; h h 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Forinformation 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) ( % h 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Informationand 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) ; % 703423; rennies@renniestravel Mp p694; (Map 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, Mp pp696-7; (Map 861286; [email protected]; 861286; [email protected]; building Mp pp696-7; (Map % (Map (Map p694 ; RuthTaylor

301496; % 704783; 695

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Samora Machel Ave West

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Rotten Row Sportsground St

Josiah Tongogara Ave Market Hall Abercom St Abercom Kaguvi St Van Praagh Ave

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Bute St Bute

Grant St Grant

Bank St Bank Luck St Harare St Harare 23

Harare St Harare Harare St St Blakiston Union (Kwame Nkrumah) Ave

Fife Ave Charter Rd Mbuya Nehanda St Herbert Chitepo Ave

Chinhoyi St Rd Albion Denmark Ave

Beit Ave Speke Ave Speke

47 Abercom St Abercom

17 Baines Ave ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Park La Bus Terminal(2km) Chinhoyi St Ave Moyo Jason To MbareMusika St Chinhoyi 49

Nelson Mandela Ave St Takawira Leopold To AvondaleShoppingCentre

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Leopold Takawira St Les Brown 3 19

Rezende St (500m) 30 52 16

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13 36 INFORMATION St Colquhoun Main PostOffice...... Kingston's...... Kenyan Embassy...... Harare PublicityAssociation...... French Embassy...... Fife AvenueLaundrette...... (see 43) Control...... Department ofImmigration Canadian HighCommission...... Book Café...... (see43) Avenues Clinic...... Australian HighCommission......

Julius Nyerere Way 20 Gardens (15km); Hertz(15km) Harare International Airport 22 ὈὈ ὈὈ Julius Nyerere 26

Way 9 To Harare Tce Inez 14

Inez Tce Inez George Silundika Ave

18 Mazowe St Mazowe Angwa St Angwa 44 43 1

Robson Manyika Ave 2 45

Kenneth Kaunda Ave Church Baptist

Park La Park 5 St Nujoma) (Sam Second South Ave St First 4 TrainStation 7 54 C 15 Royal Harare

Harare Golf Club Orr St Orr 38 12 Speke Ave ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ 8

Baines Ave 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Cathedral

Anglican 29 Second St Second C2 C2 B4 C4 C3 C4 C4 C4 B3 Botanic Gardens 39

Samora Machel Ave

40 Josiah Tongogara Ave Third St Third To National Square Africa Unity

6 Fife Ave (1km) Cricket

Zimsun Leisure Group...... Zimbabwe TourismAuthority.. Zambian HighCommission...... UTc...... US Embassy...... UK HighCommission...... Travelworld BudgetTours...... (see 42) Telco Internet...... Tanzanian HighCommission.... Surveyor General...... Strachan's PhotoShop...... Quick NEasyInternetShop.....(see4) Police Station...... Parirenyatwa Hospital...... One StopInternet...... Msuna Safaris&Travel...... (see25) Msuna Safaris&Travel...... Mozambican Embassy......

Oval

Wynne 28 St 41 35

Union (Kwame Nkrumah) Ave

Robert Mugabe Rd 37

Jason Moyo

Between 6pm&6am Nelson Mandela Ave St Fourth 32 Sacred

Heart Josiah Chinamano Ave 46 Road Closed

Mukuvisi

Central Ave

Presidential ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Fifth St Fifth Residence lonelyplanet.com

Ave George Silundika Ave

Herbert Chitepo Ave 42

Livingstone Ave

D 33 St Sixth River Selous Ave

24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 53

Chance llor Ave llor

C4 A4 B4 B4 B3 B4 C4 B3 B4 C4 C5 B1 C5 D4 B3 Seventh St Seventh Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

lonelyplanet.com Seventh St Seventh Greenwood 25 Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ

Park

StateHouse Eigth St Eigth To Chapungu Kraal (8km)

E Ninth St Ninth 0 0

HARARE ••Sights TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Zupco...... (see 53) South AfricanAirways...... Road PortTerminal...... Rezende StBusTerminal...... Market SquareBusTerminal.. Greyhound...... (see 53) Fourth StBusTerminal...... Europcar...... Chinhoyi StBusTerminal...... Buses forHeroes'Acre...... Blue ArrowOffice...... Angwa StBusTerminal...... Air Zimbabwe...... (see41) Air Tanzania...... (see17) Air Namibia...... (see43) Air Malawi...... Air Botswana...... Spinalong...... (see 41) Fife AveShoppingCentre...... Eastgate Centre...... Complex...... Mannenburg JazzClub...... (see42) Jazz 105...... TM Supermarket...... Keg &Maiden...... Book Café...... (see42) 40 CorkRoad...... Miekles...... Jameson...... Holiday Inn...... Bronte...... Sciences...... Zimbabwe MuseumofHuman Town House...... Royal HarareGolfClub...... Parliament...... National GalleryofZimbabwe.. Harare Gardens...... Greenwood Park...... Ster-Kinekor Cinema Tenth St Tenth

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Bodle Ave Bodle Enterprise Rd Fife Ave

Samora Machel Ave Golf Club Chapman F 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 0.3 miles 500 m E2 C3 D4 B4 A5 D4 B4 B5 B4 D4 C5 C4 C2 D2 C5 C5 C5 C4 D1 B1 C4 B4 D4 D2 A5 B5 C1 C4 C3 B3 4 6 1 3 2 5 is inthesoutheastcornerof Harare Gardens. Harare ture, lookforacopy of For backgroundon Harare’s colonial architec- Buildings Historic to spendtheday. mens fromSouthernAfrica. It’sagreat place species are alsorepresented, aswellspeci- Harare’s climate. pleasant MostZimbabwean the diverse flowers andgreenery thatthrive in admission US$5; The 58-hectare National BotanicGardens No cyclingisallowed. and watch yourbelongingscarefully byday. avoid theparkatnight short-cuttingthrough Gardens isnotoriousforcrime,soalways ature Victoria Falls Gorge. andZambezi island-like of stand rainforest withitsmini- photos andcanoodlingcouples.Lookforthe blocks south,andafavourite spotforwedding free) The city’slargest Gardens Harare on art. excellent forsculptures, craftsandbooks shopis Theattached masks andcarvings. paintings)stonesculptures,usually purchase and Africanartincludingpaintings,(youcan It hasamixof contemporary Zimbabwean Nyerere Way&Park Lane;admissionUS$0.25; This ofZimbabwe National Gallery west of thecitycentre. isa10-minute walk and music.Themuseum the exhibitsof traditionalShona crafts,arts arehighlights thearchaeological displays and happyforanhourorso. buffs museum The fossilsanddioramastokeep most has enough Pennefather Ave St;admissionUS$1; &Raleigh small This ofHumanSciences Zimbabwe Museum other places,are soldattheentrance. excellent oilpaintingsof VictoriaFalls, among Chimurenga.display about theSecond Printsof accounts of earlyexplorers andsettlers, anda tures fascinatingcolonialartefacts andphotos, andmodernZimbabwe.tory of Itfea- Rhodesia off BorrowdaleRd,istherepository forthehis- Despite its peaceful atmosphere, Harare isahaven fromthecitybustlejustafew collection byPeter Jackson. museum h

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. and chapel. but hasmostmodconsplusabeauty salon of townwith123rooms,thisplaceisdated of town withinapretty andpeacefulwalled Ave; s/dUS$97/122) don’t missit. time toeatandparty.Ifyou’re intheregion it’s the actionduringdayandatnight, shops andcraftmarkets feature alongside jazz, soul,funk,theatre anddance. Work- artists. Performances includeclassicalmusic, alongsideZimbabwean a crammedtimetable sors bringoutinternational actstoproduce ofweek April.Embassies andcorporate spon- .hifa.co.zw) Festival International ofArts Harare FESTIVALS &EVENTS underseven. for kids,particularlythose Chitepo &7th;all-daypassUS$10; favourite is swings, jumpingcastlesetc.Oneremaining are very child-friendly, withchildren’s menus, Water Whirld)have Mostrestaurants closed. many of theprevious attractions(including Harare remains agoodplaceforkids,though FORCHILDREN HARARE membership fee of US$12. centre. Guestsare welcomeforatempor ary h GolfClub Royal Harare around Harare istheinternationally acclaimed The mostfamousof golfcourses theseven ACTIVITIES distance fromtown. distance garden, it hasplainrooms butiswalking Ave/Park Street; s/dUS$87/122) rooftop deck. centre, ithasabarandcityviewfromits toAvondaleone isstillgood.Close shopping theyare nowprettysurvived, sleazy.Butthis have sofew backpackers seen that iftheyhave problem withbackpackers lodges isthatthey Rd;rUS$55) 25Ridge [email protected]; Lodge Small WorldBackpackers SLEEPING first few daysof September. 10 daysover of thelastweek Augustandthe in mid-June. Bronte Jameson Film FestivalZimbabwe International The 6am-6pm) Bulawayo Music Festival Bulawayo Music

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702920; Fifth St; withrides 300119; www is heldfor % cnr Herbert cnr Herbert 335341; The Falls Hotel. Has finedining, asmartbar, fanciest hotel intown,sister of theVictoria Belgravia) a cityhotel. Runbyavery nicecouple. inthesuburbsandisanicealternativeset to cnr JasonMoyoAve &ThirdSt;rUS$240; Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com no pleasant or unpleasant surprises. orunpleasant no pleasant abittiredcentrally located andalthough has AveMachel &Fifth St;s/dUS$125/155) lonelyplanet.com dead during the day but at night hostspopu- dead during thedaybutat night Shopping Centre; teak furniture. tiles, hand-painted ceramics andcane shopforhand-printedin theattached tex- mood forshopping will putyouintheright andfish curries.Thefoodheremoussakas muesli, yogurtandstewed fruittovegetable in Zimbabwe,fromitsamazinghomemade someof themostappetisingfood serves lunch anydayexceptSunday,theShop Café row Rd,Msasa) and cakes inHarare. and plantshop.Ithassomeof thebest coffee den. Italsohasanartgalleryandinteriors is ahouse-turned-restaurant withahuge gar- ian mealsforgrown-ups. ing gymforkids,andsteak, fish andvegetar- whole family,withfoodandanindoorclimb- Sopranoscaters series, forthe American TV h –tasty. the meals–rolls,wrapsandpastas Ethiopian. Thismeansthecoffee isgoodand astheownersold-world Italian are Italian- Despite viewsof thecarpark,décoris Rd; George dale ShoppingCentre, King Sunday. on FridayandSaturday.Many are on closed Monday toThursday, withsomeopenlater areCafés generally openfrom9amto5pm mealsfromUS$7. snacks fromUS$4,andlight coffee forUS$2,cakes and Most cafésserve Cafés EATING and acoupleof great shops inthefoyer. gym, pool,barandbeauticianontherooftop, s/d US$130/170) Meikles York Lodge Holiday Inn Italian Bakery Book Café Shop Café 40 CorkRoad Sopranos 8am-8pm) Like inHarare, manybusinesses this

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dishes. chicken are andpasta divine. Italsoserves affair whereaffair youbuyfish andthenhave it in what was once a colonial house, thisisa in whatwasonceacolonialhouse, Hurtsview Rd, Ridgeview; mealsperpersonUS$9) Rd,Ridgeview; Hurtsview though youcan makethough bookings. cooked for you. Deliciousfood andlaidback, cnr RolfValley Rd&Fisher Ave) ably hasthebestfoodintown. menuofwithin aset fourcourses, andprob- formal (forHarare withchoices standards), favourite of locals.Itispretty well-heeled Newlands; dinnerUS$50) on thewayout.Amust. You canalsobuyapaintingfromlocalartist food fromaroundtheworldandagreat vibe. more amazing garden,Amanzi’shasdelicious withAfricandécorandaneven colonial house dinnerUS$40) Highlands; Indian communityplayscricket. overlooking acricket groundwhere Harare’s food –includingvegetarian thalis–upstairs place isopenonSundays.DeliciousIndian the Chase&Teviotdale Rd;mainsUS$8) there’s live music. minuscricketers).(sadly, OnSaturday nights the magnificentinternational cricket ground off FifthSt,forapubmealandcheck out You canalsoorderaveg meal.Trythisplace, steak andchips inacheerful pubatmosphere. Club; mainsUS$4) most are onSundays. closed areRestaurants openforlunch anddinnerbut Restaurants Borrowdale Rd. famous gospelsingers. SwanDrisparallelto coffee too. Rubshoulders withregionally up forthebestcakes inHarare, andgreat cafés. Youdon’thave tobereligious topitch entrance whichopenlater stays thanother centre withacaféonthegroundfloorat Dr) andnationalobsession. staple especially formance. Youcaneattraditionalfoodhere, is crowdedandlively whenthere’s aper- andwriters,lar localmusicians,poets and Ahuge newchurch/concert hall/event Drive Through Restaurant Restaurant Through Drive 22 Victoria Amanzi’s Jaipur DV8 &Maiden Keg Celebration Centre Celebration

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699 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE Borrowdale &Piers Rds) this nightclub at Sam Levy’s Village. atSamLevy’s this nightclub Kinekor Cinema complex Kinekor ($3),include the seats and comfortable Cinemas offering recent films,andcheap Cinemas Sunday. have live except night performances every Club evenings. live AfrojazzonSunday andWednesday Ave) St &RobsonManyika the foyerhere. in townforjustadrinkandchat isbehind ShoppingCentre) Extension at www.twinarts.co.zw. and Saturdayeditionsof the look attheentertainment page of theFriday who’splayingwhere,play regularly. Tosee wherecapital well-knownlocalmusicians performances atbars andcafésaroundthe many traditionalandcontemporary music Harare’s musicscenerocks,andyoucancatch Bars &Nightclubs take ataxi. any other)late-night spotsafter dark;always ment inthe News and what’snot,check thelistingsin andtofindoutwhat’shot upcoming events, tronic musicatadisco. Forinformationabout live AfricanbandsortoWestern-style elec- Harare isagreat placetoshake yourbootyto ENTERTAINMENT St). Second Supermarket has supermarkets. Inthecitycentre, try Every Shopping, shoppingcentre (see right ) Self-Catering suites. life. Italsohasaccommodation:nineprivate with viewsacross the grassy highveld towild- a thatched complex10minutes’ drive north ol’ Sundayroastisthisplaceoff AlpesRd.It’s restaurant thatisopenonSundaysforagood 700 Never walkto orfromanyofNever (or these Lodge Wild Geese The Book Café andthe The BookCafé Jazz 105 Theatre Reps Origins Nightclub Origins Mp pp696-7; (Map and the weekly Standardplus supple- Standardplus andtheweekly HARARE •• Entertainment HARARE ••Entertainment

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operates to/fromBulawayo(US$140/250 flights African Airways African lonelyplanet.com Kaunda Ave St.Intheory, trains andSecond isnearthecorner ofThe train station Kenneth Train Zupco Pioneer Bus Kurerwa Kukura Greyhound Ave) Chester House,Speke [email protected]; Blue Arrow Bus companiesincludethefollowing: leave from. is where international services Port terminal (Map pp696–7 ) intown,which city centre. Afew leave buses fromtheRoad (Map p694 ) nexttothemarket 5kmfromthe leave fromtheMbare MusikaBusTerminal todestinationswithinZimbabwe Most buses Bus % canallbereachedKLM, Lufthansa bycalling Malawi House) Namibia swana airlines alsohave inHarare: offices (US$230/375 oneway/return). Thefollowing one way/return, 45minutes) andVictoriaFalls from Harare, see p729 . toand aboutinternational flights For details Air THERE&AWAY GETTING Musika BusTerminal)Musika BusTerminal)Musika Terminal) Air France, British Airways, Cathay Pacific,Air France,BritishAirways,Cathay Air Zimbabwe made themostofhis54-years. SouthernAfrica’s Oliver super-group, soundtracks, andacontributortoMahube, Mtukudzihas borne byMtukudzi. is knownas‘Tuku’ andacrossSouthernAfrica peoplewilltalkof‘Tuku’ tunesandthesounds ships’ whichisalltrueenough.Butthemancannotbetieddownsoeasily.InZimbabwehe about politicsandsavvymixingitallwithessentialdosesofhope. force inacountrywhere mostofthepeoplehave beensilenced.HeiscandidaboutAIDS,honest across generationsasafatherfigure. lyricsare His largely sociallydriven andare aninspiring Oliver MtukudziissoubiquitousinZimbabwe,accomplishedandloved, thatheisseen MOVERS &SHAKERS: OLIVER MTUKUDZI 703880. ; His own heroes – Otis Redding and Jamaica’s Toots Hibbert –wouldbeproud. ReddingandJamaica’sTootsHibbert ownheroes–Otis His A prolificmusicianwithmore than30albumstohisname,thecomposerofthree movie Mtukudzi’s musiciscalled‘soulandR&B,amixofhishomelandSouthAfrican town- (Map (Map pp696-7 ; (Map pp696-7; (Map

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% (Map (Map pp696-7 ; % 793195/228/229; TravelPlaza) % 704933; Road Port Terminal)704933; RoadPort 752563) % % 732094/5; TravelPlaza) 795863, 790531;Mbare % % 720801; Road Port 720801; RoadPort % 729514; . 669973/6; Mbare 794511/2/6/47/83; SCC 253752; EastgateCentre) % 752537/8) Air Bot- ; South ; ; Air Air

Hertz US$10 to US$30. US$3 toUS$8 andtothesuburbs costsfrom or fromanywhere inthecitycentre costs from include services Official front of large hotels.are Alltaxis private hire. Angwa StandJuliusNyerere Way;andin Ave nearFirst St;onUnionAve between and NelsonMandela Ave; onSamoraMachel There are onthecornerof stands First taxi St using oneduringthedaytosave yourlegs. consider andeven atnight, Always take ataxi Taxi orprivate taxis cars.locals. Touristsuse There are daysfor toofew these minibuses Minibus [email protected]; Ave 19SamoraMachel West) Harare include Major international carrental companiesin &Motorcycle Car port, 2kmnorthwestof Harare. aircraftoperatelight outof CharlesPriceair- of thecitycentre. Charter andother flights Harare International Airport,15kmsoutheast the All international anddomestic airlinesuse To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING brothels. See p731 formore information. for touristsandare frequently astravelling used changing andtrainsare notparticularlysafe Victoria Falls US$11,8pm). (sleeper 8½ hours, 9.30pm)andfromBulawayoto nine hours, 9pm);Harare toMutare (US$6, go fromHarare US$10, toBulawayo(sleeper In reality, are traintimetables constantly

( % 706254; [email protected]) Europcar Rixi TaxiRixi

(Map (Map p694 ; . ( %

753080) % 752559;

and

701 . To ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE 13km southeastof Harare, off Chiremba Rd, Chivero of Harare. onthe57-sq-km Itfocuses This 5500-hectare parkis32kmsouthwest Park Recreational Chivero Lake Parkand Cheetah regularly hasnewcubs. for awalk(withguideandgun).TheLion permitted, youcannowtake lioncubs though or private vehicle; walking andhitching are not Visitorstortoise. musthave arented, chartered Tommy,a250-year-oldelephants, andeven and baboons,crocodiles,giraffes can alsosee that have lived intheparksince1968).You (many of which are fromorphans offspring can ‘ooh’ and‘aah’atthevarietyof bigcats toHararethe onlyplaceclose where visitors Harare andjustoff theroadtoBulawayo. It’s 5pm) This Park Lion &Cheetah crowds willeasilyspoilthetranquillity. the don’t goonSaturdayorSunday,because The besttimeforbloomsisJunetoOctober. But lents andthevariegated huesof tropicalflowers. the brilliantred andyellowbloomsof thesuccu- cycads, andduringwinter theslopesglowwith prehistoric-looking cactiandpalm-like aloes, The gardensare characterised byanarrayof hectares of elaborate gardensandwoodland. 6pm) This small Park National Ewanrigg being featured onZimbabwe’sbanknotes. which were by catapulted torockstardom Notes’, tion isthegroupknownas‘Bank are probably themostfamous.The mainattrac- Epworth can befoundallover at Zimbabwe,those betterAlthough examplesof balancingrocks BalancingRocks Epworth on daytripsfromthecapital. canbevisitedMost placeslisted inthissection AROUND HARARE 702 looks dangerous, itprobably is. slide. This includes safety. Ifsomething almost everything inZimbabwe isonthe Despite almosteveryone’s greatest efforts, WARNING , 40kmnortheastof Harare, consistsof 240 sitsonaprivate 24kmwestof estate, park NORTHERN ZIMBABWE NORTHERN (formerly Lake McIlwaine), where (formerlyLake

(admission withguidedtourUS$4;

(admission peradult/vehicleUS$15/3; national park

(admission US$12; h 6am-6pm) h h 6am- Lake Lake 8am- , birds, apparently thelargest varietyof indig- ings (especiallyphotogenic intheafternoon). are concentrated. admission US$4; takes you tothe at thecarpark,awell-marked 15-minute walk for itsrockpaintings.Fromthesmall guage), 16kmnortheastof Harare, isrenowned Domboshawa (‘RedRock’intheShona lan- Domboshawa &Ngomakurira Abarandrestaurantsanctuary. are attached. Offers comfyaccommodationinside thebird camping perpersonUS$3,chaletswithbreakfast perpersonUS$12) and braaipits. shore of thelake theswimmingpool canuse US$1/2/3; ZW$125, lodgeswith2/4/5bedsUS$2/3/4,chalets1/4/5 National Parks Accommodation SLEEPING &EATING hire.horse ridingandboat/canoe ( below ) offers allsortsof activities,such as enous speciesinAfrica. TheAdmiral’sCabin 9am-5pmSat&Sun) Fri, Sanctuary the nastybilharziabugsmight. avoid swimming:ifthecrocsdon’tget you, weekends fishing, boatingandpartying.But day-trippers fromHarare love tospendtheir Park are alsoworththe effort. Chinhoyi Caves andMatusadona National the Mana PoolsNationalPark, the though try are of theeastern section Kariba Lake and The major attractionsinthispartof thecoun- ZIMBABWE NORTHERN is 2kminfromthemainroad. village (45kmnorthof Harare). Theentrance tions butgo15kmfurthertoNgomakurira walk 1kmfromthere totheentrygate. to drop youattheturn-off, andyou’llneed (MapMusika busstation p694 ). Thebuscan via Chinamorabus,fromHarare’s Mbare to Domboshawavillage ortake theBindura Harare. Drive northalongtheBorrowdaleRd trip.Domboshawa half-day 6pm) Both sites make aninteresting dayor Ngomakurira Admiral’s Cabin On thenorthernshore, For Ngomakurira, follow the same direc-For Ngomakurira,followthesame offers more even rockpaint- spectacular s

(admission US$7; ) Guestsatthisplaceonthenorthern Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com h

( %

6am-6pm) ( Domboshawa Caves % boasts over boasts 450typesof 790044; admissionUS$2; 062-2309; bird [email protected]; 062-2309; [email protected]; h where thepaintings 10am-5pm Mon-Wed&

is 30kmnorthof

Kuimba Shiri Bird Kuimba Shiri (camping perperson lonelyplanet.com

( % h museum 790044; 6am-

other operator. to theVirgin Mary (thepatron andStJoseph engineers, aswell of military saint Italian Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com hill (Kariba Heights) overlooking thelake. lakeshoreout alongthesteep andacrossa The smalllakeside townof Kariba isspread % KARIBA lonelyplanet.com ( (US$7 perperson perday). Heights) ping Centre, Kariba tripson boats andcanoeing Kariba.Lake Youcanalso arrange safari. house- canoeing Pools NationalParks, oraLowerZambezi from bookatriptoMatusadona orMana There’s notalottodoinKariba town,apart Activities Kariba.Lake rescue of wildlife fromtherisingwaters of Monument died duringconstruction.The the church inmemory of 21colleagueswho company thathelpedcreate Kariba Dambuilt ofsaint carpenters). Workers fromtheItalian sion free; quaint fees. that youdon’thave topayanyextravisa ofimmigration officials yourintention so orZimbabwean pendently, tell theZambian view. Ifyouwanttovisitthedamwallinde- orjusttolookatthespectacular Zambia can walkordrive across thedamwallinto border.straddles theZimbabwe–Zambia You The mainroadleadstothe Sights for theviews. with much. it’sworthcominghere However, are friendlybutcan’thelp below. Thestaff sive viewof gorge thedamwallanddeep Dr,hasanimpres-walk uphillfromLake [email protected]; The Information town. through thetrees,through andwildlife often comes Kariba Heights. There are lovely lake views thetree-coveredwinds upthrough hillsto Dr.ingly, calledLake Fromhere anotherroad The roadalongsidethelake is,notsurpris- % Al Cove In Kariba Heights (or‘theHeights’) the 061 2766; [email protected]; Andora Harbour) 2766; [email protected]; Kariba PublicityAssociation Kariba / Church ofSantaBarbara h

pop 15,000 ( % nearbycommemorates the1959 8am-6pm) 3338; [email protected]; HeightsShop- 3338; [email protected]; h NORTHERN ZIMBABWE••Kariba NORTHERN 8am-5pm) isdedicated tothepatron operates houseboat trips operates houseboat , asteep15-minute (Kariba Heights; admis- (Kariba

Kariba Houseboats Kariba dam wall

Operation Noah Operation Noah ( % 2328; www , which isan-

Matusadona. guides andhasbetter thanaverage accessto clays Bank, itoffersclays Bank, hotand cold(soft) drinks, laundry. cooking andcamping facilities,toiletsand and overlooking thelake; fully self-catering, 2/4/6/12 bedsUS$40/60/70/120) campingUS$5,chaletswith Stand780,CampHill; .co.zw; thanHarare.higher food fromHarare, asKariba prices tend tobe ZV SparSupermarket inKariba townorbring aisdadmin@cfu,co.zw andsubscribeforfree. Email andhouseboats. for houses ings service Union’s onlineclassifiedshasagoodlist- Travel agents ortheCommercialFarmers will avoid painfulexchange rate differences. as pricescanbepaiddirect inUSdollars, you can beagreat optionforafamilyortwo. And ing views,poolsandoften tennis courts,these isagoodoption.Withsweep- hiring ahouse Breezes Hotel. of lodges several including theonce-popular The plummetintourismhasledtothedemise Sleeping &Eating KushingaLodge) .com; Kariba (about US$100perperson). tripandlake canoe cruise walking safari, in-one ‘combo’includingawildlife drive, Breezes Hotel) Kariba and November. best timeforwildlife July viewingisbetween around the Matusadona NationalPark. The companiesoffer wildlife drivesSeveral DRIVES WILDLIFE Breezes Hotel). Kariba .co.zw; and ( ommended companiesinclude: parks donotincludeparkadmissionfees. Rec- Mana foractivitiesinnational andback.Rates fairlyreasonable chartersdoes fromKariba to is asmallcharter inKariba planebased that National Parks (fromUS$80perday).There toManaing safaris PoolsandMatusadona days fromUS$120/300),andwalkingordriv- tween ChirunduandManatween Pools (two/three % Hoal Hogg KushingaLodges Kariba Buffalo Safaris For self-catering lodges, buyyourfoodat For self-catering ontheedgeIf youwanttostay of thelake, HorseSafaris River Several operators run canoeing safaris be- safaris operators runcanoeing Several 3041; [email protected]; Kariba KushingaLodge) Kariba 3041; [email protected]; River HorseSafaris River

(Kariba Heights; mealsUS$7) (Kariba specialises inafull-day,four- specialises

( %

( % provides experienced 3041; [email protected]

Beautifully appointed Beautifully 2447; www.riverhorse.co.zw; 2447; www.riverhorse.co.zw; ( (

% % 3041/2/3; kushinga@zol 2447; www.riverhorse Behind Bar- Behind Buffalo Safaris 703

ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE 704 0 5 km KARIBA 0 3 miles A B C ὈὈὈὈὈD E F ZIMBABWE••Kariba NORTHERN Aerial Hill Z A M B I A Z I M B A B W E INFORMATION Zambian Customs LEGEND & Immigration Kariba Publicity Association...... 1 A1 SA Safari Area

WA Wild Area Heights 1 Kariba Dam Mahombekombe Heights SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Observation Point Al Cove...... 2 D2 Kariba Dam 1 Kariba Nhoro Hospital Buffalo Safaris...... (see 7) Wall Hill Dr Heights Cres Church of Santa Barbara...... 3 D2 12 9 Kariba Houseboats...... 4 B2 Zimbabwean Customs Dr ὈὈὈὈὈOperation Noah Monument...... 5 D2 & Immigration Lake 3 River Horse Safaris...... 6 D4 2 Buffalo Lake Dr Crafts SLEEPING Market Dr Dr Kariba Kushinga Lodge...... 7 A3 5 11 10 Sable 4 EATING 13 2 Caribbea Bay Hotel...... 8 C2 Dr Andora Hoal Hogg...... 9 D1 Hill Harbour 8 Kariba Country Club...... 10 D2 Impala Dr ὈὈὈὈὈ Camp Pagomo Grill...... 11 D2 Spar Supermarket...... 12 B1 Glitterstone Camp Marineland Quarry Hill Marina TRANSPORT Bus Stop...... (see 12) 0 1 km 7 Kariba Ferries Terminal...... 13 B2 0 0.5 miles Taxi Services...... (see 8) To Chirundu (78km); Z A M B I A Lusaka (178km) Gorge Z I M B A B W E The Peak ὈὈὈὈὈ 3 Lake Dr Kariba Kariba See Enlargement Nyamhunga Wildlife Airport Environment To Makuti & Zimbabwe Gache Gache Siavonga (51km) National Parks & Wildlife Zimbabwe 6 Mopani Chawara Marina & National Parks ὈὈὈὈὈBay Float Plane Base Harbour Charara

Mica lonelyplanet.com Point L e i s u r e B a y 4

Sampakaruma L A K E K A R I B A Island C h a r a r a B a y Rhino Antelope Zebra Island ὈὈὈὈὈIsland Island up toKariba Heights anyway,it’swellworth on offer are notfish. Ifyou’ve madethetrek butironicallymostdishesa tasteful setting, snacksandgrilleddinners uplight in Serves home cooking. home cooking. ting. Afew souvenirs are inside. forsale and simplemeals,inacharming gardenset- lonelyplanet.com to wonderful luxury.(Note thata ‘tented ofent levels tented camps,from fairlybasic the onethatmost people do. There are differ- a travel agent –thisistheeasiestoptionand the unparalleledMana. and elephants. plentyof hippos,crocs,zebras,antelopessee Zimbabwe where you’re to almostguaranteed with crocsandhippos.Thisisone parkin around theparkheadquarters thatare popular Shona language, andrefers tothefourpools and natural.Theword of thewild sense remoteness andpervading Heritage Site, anditsmagicstems from its (admission US$15; 2200-sq-km magnificent This POOLSNATIONALMANA PARK game. the bestfishingof theislands,but notmuch the foodisonlyOK. fenced andhasbabysitters. are manylionsinthearea. take children. It’srusticandbasicthere mote andvery wild.But,again,notaplaceto the camp. of activitiesandelectricfences surrounding not very child-friendly, with alack though, to Matusadona NationalPark. Theparkis ing andabundantgame,given itsproximity in Kariba of because itslocation,goodguid- any of thetravel agents inKariba. The followingplacescanbebooked through Around Karibe CountryClub Kariba BayHotel Caribbea views fromtheterrace. whilesavouring the enjoying anicecoldbeer The first istobook atented camp through There are twomainoptionsforvisitors to Gache Gache with isinabeautifulsetting Sanyati isgorgeous andluxurious,though Spurwing isagreat lodge forkids,safely Islandisalsowonderful–very re-Rhino isthemostpopulartentedMusango camp Other recommendations: Pagoma Grill h

( % NORTHERN ZIMBABWE •• Mana PoolsNationalPark ZIMBABWE••Mana NORTHERN (ImpalaDr)Hasgoodfoodtoo. 6am-6pm) (Kariba Heights)Knownforits (Kariba 2894; Kariba Heights;mealsUS$8) 2894; Kariba mana isaUnescoWorld meansfourinthe national park

if theanimals get forcomfort abittoo close have yourownprivate viewingplatform,so the lodge. Withtheupstairs balconyyoualso falos, hippos,bushbucks upto –comeright in thedistance. back, andtheelephantsthatare approaching youturnyour who willsteal foodthesecond morning, keeping aneyeonthemonkeys on thebraaiin cooking baconandeggs the lionsare ontheprowl!Thebestthingis timewhen and beds,cansitinsideatnight have chairs solidbrickwalls,andcomfortable like campinginalotof ways,onlythatyou tery tocharge it. totake acarbat- bulbs–andyouneed light solar panels,which literally runacoupleof in Kariba. There islimited electricitythrough totake ice blockstobolsterneed it;buythis braai. There isalsoagasfridge insidebutyou so youcookyourownfoodoutsideonthe hasagasstove,the balcony.Each butnogas, undermosquitonetson and foursleeping bedrooms with fourpeopleintwoenclosed Mana people, Pools,each uptoeight sleeping Fri) Dr; cnrBorrowdaleRd&Sandringham .zw; p694; (Map lodge through Arundel Village,QuornAvenue, MtPleasant,Harare) Safaris Africa or Natureways travel through agent and whatyouget ateach camp. they’ll beable toclueyouuponwhat’sgood to atravel agent aboutthedifferent options, formilesaround.Talkguide, asyoucansee You’re alsoallowedtowalkaroundwithouta world andmakes itatrulymagicalexperience. parkinthe from justaboutanyothersafari breakfast. Mana Thisiswhatsets Poolsapart elephants strollingbywhileyouhave your is thatnowhere isfenced in,sothere canbe The centraldifference everywhere inMana much different camp. fromanormalsafari ies greatly, andsomeof thecampsare not ofstunning location.)Thelevel luxuryvar- orsimilar up onthebanksof theZambezi set full mealsperday,usuallyaroundatable camp beds,andacooktoprovide three pre-erected walk-intents withcomfortable own tent –atthevery leastthere are normal notmeanyouhavecamp’ does topitch your . There are two main self-catering lodges. There at are twomainself-catering The second option is to book a self-catering optionistobookaself-catering The second Try atented withCraigVan campsafari Zyl All of theanimals –elephants,lions,buf- The lodges are pretty basic–more orless %

706077; fax726089;[email protected] Mp p694; (Map National Parks &WildlifeZim babwe % 301494/369185; Shop37 h 8am-4pm Mon- Experience Experience .

705 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE permitted tocross theinvisibleborder along arestarted in. Operators not from Zambia remain tothebank,of close thecountrythey withintheterritorialmust stay waters, and are allcanoeists deceptively strong.Secondly, the currents alongthispartof theZambezi practice ifthisisthecase. goodenvironmental your operatortoobserve sideof theriver.Zambian encourage Please some companiesrunfromtheless-regulated ments (andrestricts their daysof operation), operators allowedoneach of thethree seg- round. SinceZimbabwelimitsthenumberof October/November, butsomeoperate year- sides. Zimbabwean andZambian andeatattheChirunduvillagesstay onthe tripinKaribacanoe town.There are placesto the trip elsewhere, orsimplybookandstart ifyou’ve bookedSiavonga your (inZambia) ing yourownwaytoKariba, Chirunduor You canalwayssave somemoneybymak- from Kariba orHarare (ifrequired). andvisas elephants canbedangerous obstacles. thirstyat times,because hipposandfrisky have complainedabout even too months forwildlife viewing.Somereaders by publictransport.JulytoOctober are peak wildlife, andthedeparture pointisaccessible ment offers thebestsceneryanddiversity of one stage, theChirundutoMana Poolsseg- combination ispossible,butifyoucandoonly Mana PoolstoKanyemba (fourtofive). Any Mana PoolsNationalPark (three tofour)and iba toChirundu(three days),Chirunduto bia andMozambique). (on theriver junctionwithZimbabwe,Zam- Kariba tripsbetween andKanyembacanoe companiesrun some wildernessroute, several ern Zimbabwe. Totake advantage of thisawe- systemhighway aroundthisstretch of north- For manylocals,the River isthe Zambezi CANOESAFARISMIDDLE ZAMBEZI months.for those 3am onthemorningof 1June/Julytobook togetneed totheNationalParks office at to gothere andit’sincredibly popular. You isthebesttimeofSeptember/October year them incomfort! you canretire upthere withaG&Tandwatch 706 The tripisnormallydoneinstages: ieKar- Most includetransporttoand safaris canoe Finally, twopointstoremember. Firstly, runfromApril/May safaris Most canoe to Booking isopenthree months inadvance. EASTERN HIGHLANDS EASTERN much wildlife supplies. has arestaurant, poolsideterrace andpetrol four-day excursionsforUS$120/300/395. downthegorgeforUS$75andtwo-/three-/ day canoetrips one- Offers Breezes Hotel,Kariba) Kariba .riverhorse.co.zw; the Fallen), localswere sonamedbecause cast focus is trad itional have forstorage andrefuge used been by and dolomite caves which andsinkholes, west of Harare. It’sriddledwithlimestone park ‘roadside’ worthwhile but small This CHINHOYI CAVES NATIONAL PARK HorseSafaris River Buffalo Safaris to October. National Park. isabout July season Thehigh admission fees (ifrequired) toMana Pools usually donotinclude accommodation. Rates foodandtented guides,canoes, ing office, tiable), andincludetransportfromthebook- The rates listed here are perperson (butnego- Operators Safari Canoe despite what theymayclaim. intoZimbabwe(orviceversa), the Zambezi normally cropsupinarmchair travellers’ makes upManicaland isn’t the Africathat The narrowstrip of country that mountain they discover them,fewer stillcanget enough. anything like butonce Highlands, theEastern Few travellers toZimbabweexpectfind HIGHLANDS EASTERN fast US$25/31; blue underworld. the pooltakes ontheappearanceof asmoky so perfectly thatthewater linedisappears and Theclearwater a magicaleffect. admits light shadows tothesunlitwaters farbelowreveal thesombrerorodzira), theviewsthrough temperature aconstant tains of 22°C. tribes intheearly19thcentury.Thepoolmain- into theformidableholebyinvadingNgoni if you start inChirundu. if youstart Costsare lower toKanyemba. and US$650/977fromKariba Pools, toMana toChirundu,US$470/620fromKariba riba Inlow/highseasonitchargesUS$250/315fromKa- Kariba) KushingaLodge, Kariba [email protected]; Caves Motel Caves From

(admission US$12; Sleeping Pool Dark Cave s people fornearly1500years. The

(Map (Map p704 ; ( % ) isattheparkentrance. Italso (Map (Map p704 ; 067-22340; fax22113;s/dwithbreak- (therear entrancetoChi- h orChirorodzira(Poolof 6am-6pm) % 061-3041; % is115kmnorth- lonelyplanet.com 061-2447; www national MUTARE getaways. secluded gardens,rivers,parks, botanical damsand It’salandof national fantasies. mountains, lonelyplanet.com US$2.20) CyberCafé Internet Café Chip BoardInternet Information and NyangaNationalPark. to eitherMozambiqueortheBvumba region phere. Itsreal isitsproximity value,though, largest city,ithasarelaxed rural-townatmos- valley surroundedbyhills.Zimbabwe’sthird- Mutare hasapretty inabowl-like setting % 4 1 3 2 MUTARE 020 To SakubvaMusika Market (2.3km) Bus Terminal& emnl...... C3 Minibuses/Taxis toMozambique Terminal...... Minibuses toSakubvaMusikaBus Town BusTerminal...... Taxi Stand...... (see3) Border...... Minibuses toJohannesburg...... Blue ArrowBusStop...... (see6) Nibeeka Gallery...... Jairos JiriCrafts...... Rainbow CentreCinema...... TM Supermarket...... Stax SteakHouse...... Jenny's ofEighthAvenue...... Homestead GuestHouse...... Holiday InnMutare...... Mutare Museum...... Post Office...... Manicaland PublicityBureau...... Internet CyberCafé...... Chipboard InternetCafé...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION / pop 200,000 AC

Jameson St EASTERN HIGHLANDS••Mutare EASTERN

Tembwe St

Herbert Chitepo St ( % (Old Mutual Bldg) (OldMutual Railway St

Riverside St;perhr 67939; 67Fourth Railway Ave Railway

17 16 15 14 Ave 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B4 C3 C3 D1 C2 B2 C3 C3 D1 D4 C2 C2 B2 C3 D2 C3 Utopia Terminal To Long (100m) Distance Bus Simon Mazorodze Rd B Train Station

Queens 17 w ay Nyanga (125km);Harare(260km) To Murahwa'sHill(1.7km);

11 F Ave F 4

15 E Ave E First St

16 has interesting exhibits ongeology, history, sion US$10; 12

tion, activities and transport information. andtransport tion, activities facilityaswellaccommoda- informal luggage-storage abookexchangeand Offers 12.45pm &2-4pmMon-Fri) Rd; Mugabe ChitepoSt&Robert cnr Herbert and naturallandscapes on arts. anthropology, technology, zoologyandthe The Sights publicity bureau. Post office PublicityBureau Manicaland

Aerodrome Rd Aerodrome D Ave D 1

5 Umasa St

Second St locatedThe NationalTrustnature reserve

Murahwa’s Hill Murahwa’s C Ave C ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

Third St Museum Mutare

10 B Ave B h (Robert Mugabe Rd)Fourblockswestofthe Mugabe (Robert 3 Herbert Chitepo St Mozambique Border(12km); 9am-5pm) Bvumba BotanicalGardens 9 14

Chimanimani (150km) Robert Mugabe Rd Mugabe Robert Aloe Garden Main Park& & Reserve(28km); Cecil KopNatureReserve(1.1km)

To Tiger'sKloofDam(1.1km); (admission free)

6 First Ave Ave First

( Fourth Ave Fourth

is close tothecentre isclose and % Second Ave Second

Third St Fifth Ave Fifth . Mutare Sports The complex encloses Thecomplexencloses 2 Club 63630; Aerodrome Rd;admis-

200m 0.1miles 0 0 Fourth St Ave Sixth ( 13

% Seventh Ave Seventh National

Fifth St Gallery has great views

64711; fax67728; Eighth Ave Eighth

D 8 Ave Ninth h

Kopje (1.7km) Tenth Ave Tenth 8.30am- Park Rd

To Cross

7 Elevent

707

ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE good service. cal of HolidayInns.Notflash, butcleanand 708 cool, forested alternating highlands withdeep, are(Vumba) Mountains characterised by Just 28kmsoutheastof Mutare, theBvumba % MOUNTAINSBVUMBA textiles andothercrafts. This ismore avant-garde, withhand-painted that allprofits gotocharity. hangings andT-shirts, with theaddedbonus cheap wall souvenirs, such asbatiks,carvings, Crafts Jairos Jiri Shopping afternoon. rubbishy Americanfilmsthatfillinarainy Cinema Centre Rainbow Entertainment Musika BusTerminal. fruit andvegetable market attheSakubva market this craftshopcaféforacoffee orlunch. ChitepoSt;mainsaroundUS$8) Herbert burgers, anddeliciousdesserts. salads veggie succulent steaks, thisrestaurant serves ChitepoSt;mainsUS$1-2,dinnerUS$25) bert cnr3rdSt&AerodromeRd;rUS$130) .zimsun.co.zw; rooms. has cleanandcomfortable inaprettyhome isset gardenwithapool.It US$10/15; Highlands. on theirwayuptoordownfromtheEastern Most travellers stoponlybrieflyinMutare Sleeping &Eating and zebrascongregate atthedam. (about 4pm)whenrhinos,antelopes, giraffes Dam can bereached withoutavehicle is the Mozambiqueborder. Part of theparkthat around thenorthernsideof Mutare andabuts ( (rocks thatresonate whenstruck). an IronAge village. Lookforthe some % Stax Steak House Stax Steak Holiday InnMutare The 1700-hectare Nibeeka Gallery Nibeeka ofEighthAvenue Jenny’s Self-caterers canstockupatthe Self-caterers GuestHouse Homestead 020 61537; admissionUS$3; . TrytovisitTiger’s Kloof atfeeding time EASTERN HIGHLANDS •• Bvumba Mountains HIGHLANDS••Bvumba EASTERN rock paintings

(cnr Herbert ChitepoSt&BAve)(cnr Herbert s ) Thisrenovated late-19th-century

(41 First St)

( (Green Coucal Café, 111 Second St) (Green CoucalCafé,111Second % andthecrumbled ( 62653; First Arcade,Her- Mutual

Cecil Kop Nature Reserve KopNature Cecil % (Robert Mugabe Rd) Mugabe (Robert Offers anumberof (

( % % 64431; reservations@him Youcanpopinto dawn-dusk) 67764; cnrEighthAve & 65870; 52Park Rd;s/d orvisitthelarge As well as as well As Tiger’s Kloof TM Super- mujejeje wraps Shows ruins Typi- of of

the famous,soft Bvumba aswella cheese, reserve (42 hectares), crisscrossed withfoot- (42hectares), crisscrossed reserve world andwidelawns,awildbotanical hectares), withspecimensfromaroundthe garden(159 ided intoalandscapedbotanical These RESERVE BVUMBA BOTANICAL GARDENS& so take care. tracksareThese abitof acrimespot,however, chameleons andbirdstokeep youcompany. grown hikingtracks,withplentyof butterflies, gardens dofeature someill-definedandover- that straddlethemainroadtobotanical Thereoff. are nofacilities,butthe39 hectares (norcanbe)choppedbeen downorburnt free) This sprawling1558-hectare BUNGA FORESTBOTANICAL RESERVE Sights bookshop inZimbabwe. the Mist than afew days,pickup British countryside. Ifyou’re formore staying and teahouses, thearea torecreate seems the its meadows,appleorchards, countrygardens tunity todetermine thename’svalidity.With ‘drizzle’ andyou’llprobablyhave theoppor- the Manyika Shona people,Bvumba means vegetateddensely valleys.Inthelanguage of out there. sure it’sopenbefore making a specialtrip 3pm MondaytoSaturday, butringtomake areand samplings available from10amto dozen ormore otherregional varieties.Tours ( Mozambique. tiful forest-laden withviews into mountains and overand cottonplantations, somebeau- banana,tobacco coffee, through route passes Thepartiallypaved70km sceniclooproad. 900m lowerthanBvumba, are bya accessed populated valleys,nearly twodensely These BURMA &ESSEX VALLEYS long ears andelongated snouts. cious beaststhathoplike kangaroosand have the oddlittleelephantshrews, tinybutfero- Watchbucks andsables. theforest floorfor aswellelands,duikers,Highlands), bush- monkeyssamango (unique totheEastern paths naturalbush.Wildlife through includes % A favourite stopisthe isarare pocket of forest thathasnot 61769; EssexValley Rd) gardens by David Martin fromanydecent Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (admission US$14;

. It produces and sells . Itproducesandsells Bvumba: h Crake Valley FarmCrake lonelyplanet.com reserve 7am-5pm)

Magic in (admission

are div-

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ lonelyplanet.com To NyangaTurn-Off(2km); Harare (255km) Drifters (21km); 4 6 1 3 2 5 BVUMBA MOUNTAINS Christmas A9 (National ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Masvingo (297km) Village (144km); Chimanimani Bridge (117km); To Birchenough Mpudzi Murahwa's River Pass Dam 9 Nyanga (97km)

Dora To Trust) Tea Garden Communal Hill Fern Valley Zimunya Lands AC A15 Station See MutareMap(p707) Entrance Nyac River Mpudzi Train Park Cecil Kop Mutare EASTERN HIGHLANDS •• Bvumba Mountains HIGHLANDS••Bvumba EASTERN

(1735m) howa Penhalonga River I mbezaVly National Parks Gardens Botanical Bvumba Cecil Kop Camp Site Botanic Gardens La Rochelle Reserve Nature

Lookout Burma Valley Rd

Orkney River Cloudlands Castle Beacon Wales View Prince of 4 Junction 0 0

Alexander Rd To Lake (20km) 8 (1586m)

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Botanical Hulley Bvumba Customs &Immigration) (Zimbabwean &Malawian Forbes BorderPost Bvumba

Dr Station Reserve

Train Rd Laurenceville B Lion Rock (1906m) Beacon (1871m) ὈὈὈ Castle Machipanda 0.2 miles Forest Botanical Lookout dnuLde...... C5 Ndundu Lodge...... Leopard RockHotel...... Inn ontheVumba...... Genaina Lodge...... Seldomseen Farm...... Golf Course...... (see5) Crake ValleyFarm...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES

Burma (1728m) 400 m Chinyakwaremba Zohwi Rd (Leopard Rock) 3

Essex Reserve Bunga 2 7

Falls Rd Valley M OZABIQUE

6 Jevington

B u r m a a m r u B Cascades Rd See Enlargement Gardens &Reserve Bvumba Botanical 6 5 4 3 2 1

V a l l e y Rd C5 B3 B5 B4 D4 Nyabonda (1350m)

Sakubva MusikaBusTerminal...... Vumba Gallery...... Genaina Gallery...... (see3) Tony's CoffeeHouse...... (see6) ub aktSop...... C5 Vumba BasketShoppe...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING Zonwi E s s e x x e s s E

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Essex Valley Road Some MinorRoads Not Depicted

1 River D

River Bomponi (1176m) 9 8 7

(272km) To Beira

A3 B4 709 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE old dames. Although itreeksold dames.Although of gloryfrom the Bvumba Rd,isoneof Zimbabwe’s grand RockHotel, attheendof Di,Leopard Lady favourite of Mother andthelate theQueen of Bvumba Rd,5kmfromMutare. Has five cakes fromUS$3; cakes US$200) spotted fluff tail orstripe-cheeked tail bulbul. spotted fluff Mutare-Bvumba. Has tinyprivate, thatched 710 rest of the day. hot chocolates. to eatforthe Youwon’t need butsinfulcakes,delectable coffees, teas and on thearea whilehewatches youdevour host willgiveThe entertaining youalowdown dary littlethatched-roof caféisanexperience. with swimmingpoolandplayground cottages andtwofamilyrooms. Great forkids courses intheworld. (championship rated)and mostdifficult golf with viewsacrossoneof themoststunning– another era,itisstillfancyandluxurious African artefacts. cottages withasometimes-opengalleryof theBvumba.through out great walkingandbike trails(forfree) dishes. Theenthusiasticowners have mapped bar andarestaurant offering veg andmeat and impressive CDcollection,awell-stocked hasalibrary, from Bvumba Reserve, Botanical thatched cottage,delightful 10minutes’ walk Rd; campingordmperpersonUS$5,s/dUS$10/14) Ndundu Lodge Sleeping &Eating ( two-hour birdlife walkwith authorities canbepretty relaxed aboutthis. is adress the code(shirts withcollar),though who are compulsory,charge less.There even cost lessthanUS$2for18holesandcaddies, US$12/24 (guestsget adiscount),whileclubs in theworldsocheaply: nine/18holescost play onacourse likenever thisanywhere intheworld.Budgetcourse travellers may Euro pean PGAcalleditthesecond-toughest perb groundsandbreathtaking The vistas. RockHotel ( Leopard below ), withitssu- don’t missoutonaroundof golfatthe Even ifyoucan’ttell aputter fromawedge, Activities % Twitchers shouldbook(inadvance)a Tony’s CoffeeHouse Inn ontheVumba Leopard RockHotel Lodge Genaina 68482) EASTERN HIGHLANDS••NyangaNationalParkEASTERN Located 24kmalongBvumba Rdfrom . Keep forabuff- youreyespeeled h ( % ( 10am-5pm Wed-Mon) % 63777; www.ndundu.com; Bvumba 63777; www.ndundu.com;Bvumba ( % ( 68177; s/dUS$100/140,cottages (Bvumba Rd;coffees fromUS$1, (Bvumba % 67449; 60192; s/dUS$150/200) s Seldomseen FarmSeldomseen ) At the start Atthestart This legen- This A Village Inn. village centre andtheappropriately named Nyanga village the library,halfwaybetween the region. sive, craftsfromZimbabweand high-quality Nyanga PublicityAssociation 1pm & 2-4pm Tue-Fri, 9-11amSat) 1pm &2-4pmTue-Fri, ( European hardwoods. ated anEnglish-style gardenwithimported Dam, hebuiltaluxurioushomestead andcre- for hisownresidence. NearNyanga(Rhodes) fell inlove withthearea, it sohesimplybought Rhodes clave Cecil Highlands. intheEastern sion US$10; 47,000-hectare The % NYANGA NATIONAL PARK baskets andpottery, anextensivehouses range of cheap T-shirts, as thefamousBvumba cheese. Rd) Lodge, Bvumba the breeze. and hankies,allstrungupswayingin underneath embroidered tablecloths, aprons womensitting Along Bvumba Rdyou’llsee Shopping and agreen lawn. prepared to brave thechilly water) mountain rooms, bilharzia-free swimming(ifyou’re Beach Brighton River. beach, knownas unofficially Thesandy wide spotbelowacascadeintheNyangombe and philanthropistRekayiTangwena. admirable worksof Zimbabweanwarhero Chimurenga ofstruggles andthe theSecond well exhibitsabout blackAfricanhistory,the Hotel. Itfeatures as displaysabout Rhodes, in thegroundsof whatisnowtheRhodes intheoldman’sformerstables is housed admission US$4; the gardens. worth avisitformealordrinktoadmire It’s Rhodes. Dam, wasoncethehomeof Cecil well-kept gardensoverlooking theNyanga The Activities & Sights % Near the Nyangombe Camp Site isanatural Near theNyangombeCamp The totheoldhotel isthe Close Gallery Vumba Genaina Gallery Genaina Shoppe Basket Vumba 029 8274) Rhodes Hotel Rhodes Nyanga Historical Exhibition Nyanga Historical toNyangaNationalPark. The h Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 6am-6pm) h

(admission free) Sells cheap basketware, Sells aswell (Bvumba Rd) (Bvumba

, withitstropicalveranda and 9am-1pm &2.30pm-5.30pmThu-Tue)

(Bvumba Rd) (Bvumba isascenicallydistincten- Nyanga NationalPar

(Hivu Nursery,Tea(Hivu & Garden Thismassive gallery , features changing Sells more expen- Sells is housed inthe ishoused

( % lonelyplanet.com (Rhodes Museum; Museum; (Rhodes 8435;

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lonelyplanet.com Sanyatwe To Rusape(66km) 4 6 1 3 2 5 NYANGA NATIONALPARK ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

A14

Troutbeck Inn...... Montclair Hotel&Casino...... Inn onRupurara...... World's View...... Rhodes Hotel...... Nyangombe Falls...... Mtarazi Falls...... Brighton Beach...... Nyanga PublicityAssociation...... Main Gate...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Nyanga HistoricalExhibition.....(see6) Nyangombe Maroro Maroro

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Nyadiri 0 0

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Nyanora

River Nyanora

3 River River EASTERN HIGHLANDS••NyangaNationalPark EASTERN Manyoli (2162m) 1

Nyan Ziwa Ruins ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ

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C1 B4 B3 C1 B3 B3 C5 A3 C2 A3 Rd 9 A15 5 Nyamakanga 8 Juliasdale (82km) Mutare To Nyanga Claremont (2038m)

Odzi Mat Dam NP Udu Club River Golf im B Nyahokwe Ruins ba Peta Scenic Rd River Plfell Moodie Loch Maroro

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Nyamhuka Nyakupinga Rd Nyakupinga River River Nyakupinga

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Chapungu Scenic

Nyangwe Rd River Rd Nyanga 2 Rd Nyarerwe Nyanga

Escarpment Falls Eagles

Pungwe View

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Dam River Scenic Temborutedza Saunyami Lakes Dam NP Rd Falls

4 Nyangombe

Pungwe Mare To Nyamaropa Pungwe Gulliver Troutbeck

Mad Lake Pungwe (31km) Falls Troutbeck

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River Tsanga

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711 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE pointed hotel of African-style lodges with river pool. andloudersingledropintoadeep a higher falls, have alookdownstream where there’s Falls a steep butshallow gorge called ofstacks cuboidboulders andplunges into the NyangombeRiver tumblesover terraced 712 .co.zw; full-board s/dUS$110/140) .co.zw; Bookings onweekends are essential. the roaringfires inthefoyer are anicetouch. facilities. Theroomsare large andcosy, and tennis courts,croquetpitches andhorse-riding ming poolandmini-golf aswell course, luxurious trappings,such asacasino,swim- breakfast US$16/20; Harare, soit’sworthbookingahead. pats inMutare, andbusinessconferences from Many hotels listed here are popularwithex- Sleeping &Eating the fallsandanother7kmtocarpark. for ScenicRd.It’sthen16kmtotheturn-off to ley Rdandthenturnleft(northeast)after 2km from Mutare, alongtheHondeVal- turnright waterfall inZimbabwe. Alongthemainroad over theedge. Itis,nevertheless, thehighest the escarpmentandnonchalantly plummets than atrickleof water thatreaches thelip of the 762m-high part of park.Thecentralattractionis thesame tional Park a andis,forallpracticalpurposes, US$12; back inontheirreturn. national parkbefore off,andcheck setting Visitors mustregister atthemaingate tothe hikers! devours thatthemountain believe even becomes irrelevant. Localinhabitants abruptly, andwhenthemistsdropview three hours. Note thattheweathercanchange Dam, theclimbtosummittakes twoto Fromthecarpark14kmeastoftain. Nyanga gani the signposts. winding, steep roadfromTroutbeck–follow but notof therest of theworld!It’s11kmupa broadviewsof northernZimbabwe, affords pice above Troutbeck.ThisNationalTrustsite perched atoptheTroutbeckMassif onapreci- World’s View Just outsidethepark’swestern boundary, Inn onRupurara &Casino Montclair Hotel The tiny The flat-toppedandmyth-shrouded

(2592m) is Zimbabwe’s highest moun- (2592m)isZimbabwe’shighest (admission free) h EASTERN HIGHLANDS••Chimanimani EASTERN 6am-6pm) Mtarazi Falls NationalPark

(admission US$4;permanentlyopen) Mtarazi Falls s ( liesjustsouthof NyangaNa- . Once you’ve seen theupper . Onceyou’ve seen

% ) Athree-star placewith 3021/4; rupurara@innsofzimbabwe

( % Abeautifully ap- , butit’slittlemore 2441; fax2447;s/dwith Nyangombe

(admission Nyan- is about this18-sq-kmparkistheconspicuous spectacular viewsallaround. spectacular nearthechurchthe summitstarts andoffers shape). Thewell-definedpath(5kmuphill)to ofalso knownasPorkPieHill(because the remote areas. careful whilewalkingin aboutBe muggings Sights &Activities ing inthenationalpark,see p714 . past thevillage green. Forinformationonhik- There’s Café. onthestreet apost office Msasa and the ChimanimaniHotel, BlueMoonBar ity andscenery. village worthvisitingforitsseren- iscertainly not goingtoChimanimaniNationalPark, the of Even Mountains. theChimanimani ifyou’re opens onthefourthsidetodramaticwall bygreenis enclosed hillsonthree sides,and village,Chimanimani 150kmsouthof Mutare, % CHIMANIMANI shooting. Goodforfamilies. tea.including high Fishfortrout,walkorgo a lake, roaringfires andheartyEnglishfood s/d US$140/156) head). (orbaldman’s ley toRupuraraMountain verandas. Ask forviewsoverlooking theval- stone lodges, forsix,with ortheRound House this hotel butit’s worthitforits three pretty views. mountain pool andbuzzing casino. Ask foraroom with gardens,a but decent,surroundedbypleasant US$75/100; toexist. ceased taken over bywarveterans andtherefore have tels thatwere located onfarmshave been Unfortunately, mostof thelodges andho- Sleeping, Eating&Drinking ers, klipspringers andzebras. waterbucks, baboons, duik- see may, however, presumably byMozambican insurgents. You conceptandallwerein thesanctuary poached, ofabsence elands;apparently, there were flaws ary to theentranceof the Frog &Fern Chimanimani Hotel There are information noticeboardsat Troutbeck Inn The same pathcontinuesforanother2km The same You canwalk(ordrive) around

026 (admission US$6; s Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com ) Avery English-styleinnwith ( Inthevillage, thisplaceistired % ( 2294) % h 8305; [email protected]; 8305; [email protected]; dawn-dusk) It’svery hard tocontact

Chimanimani ElandSanctu- ( % 2511; full-boards/d . Theoddthing lonelyplanet.com Nyamzure , lonelyplanet.com Mutare (143km) To Chipinge(58km); 4 6 1 3 2 Nyahode 5 AROUND CHIMANIMANI Bridal VeilFalls Junction ὈὈ ὈὈ

Nyahodi River TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Bus Stop...... Blue MoonBar...... Msasa Café...... Mutekeswane BaseCamp...... Mountain Hut...... Frog &Fern...... Chimanimani Hotel...... Tessa's Pool...... Smaller Caves...... Saddle Cave...... Red WallCave...... Peter's HouseCave...... Outward BoundSchool...... North Cave...... Eland ValleyCave...... Company...... (see15) Chimanimani Bushwalking Rangers Office...... (see13) Post Office...... Chimanimani Sanctuary

Cashel Scenic Route

Eland

hodi Ny a AC

To Cashel

Greenmount River Chimanimani (35km) (1837m) EASTERN HIGHLANDS••AroundChimanimani EASTERN See Enlargement ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ Nyamzure (1987m)

Tilbury Piccadilly (1726m) Circus Orange Chikukwa Peni 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 9 Zunguni D5 D5 C5 C2 D2 B5 D5 C2 D2 D4 D2 D2 C2 D2 D3 C5 Grove Rd B Rd M

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Saddle Track Banana GroveTrack Terry's TraverseTrack Bundi Track Terry's CaveTrail Long GullyTrack Mt BingaTrack Bailey's Folly Skeleton PassTrack Hadange RiverTrack CHIMANIMANI NPHIKINGTRACKS Nyapande

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(1893m) Cashel

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MOZAMBIQUE National Park Forest Reserve

Arboretum Bundi

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Tilbury Rd (2215m)

Plateau

Scenic Scenic Turret Towers Mt Mawenje/ Cone Hill along river poor track (2399m) Dewars Col

Route Mt Binga 7 (2437m)

3 miles

5 km 713 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE camp. NearOutwardBoundis walk backalongtheroadtosignoutatbase ing station inChimanimani village,ing station offers hik- Chimanimani village) www.bushwalkingco.com; ment. teeth-chattering some refresh- dip,ifyouneed peaks. Above thewaterfall isapool,idealfor waterfall andopensontoviewsof thehighest walk northof hut,overlooks themountain a valley’s northernend. sites. Themostaccessiblecaves lienearthe rock overhangs, which make ideal(free) camp find outwhenit’savailable. tothepublic.Sophoneinadvance closed for someof timesit’s itscourses, andatthese Tessa’soff. byOutwardBound Poolisused lovely swimmingholeandagreat placetocool Bound School exit route thatcomesoutnearthe thehutandsummit. tween stream for afill-upislessthanhalfwaybe- plentyoffrom thehut.Carry water. Thelast three-hour climb zambique border,astiff isthe2437m-high Range ard Valley inMozambique. viewintoWiz- afternoon foranunsurpassed Zimbabwe andMozambique. Gointhelate Pass Skeleton hut,it’saneasy40-minutemountain walkto the gentler Grove Banana Track.Fromthe hut (aroundthree hours). Anotheroptionis est andmostpopularroute tothemountain is accessibleonlyonfoot. camp,butafter thatthepark a roadtothebase There’spark fees atMutekeswane Camp. Base manimani village, youmustsigninandpay (admission US$10; Togohikingin dise. Chimanimani NationalPark isahiker’s para- NATIONALCHIMANIMANI PARK some locals,headtoBlueMoonBar. Mexican tortillas. snacks fromlocal eating out.Itoffers awidevarietyof mealsand This placeisthebestspotinvillage for 1.2km westof thevillage. great views of Itislocated themountains. 714 From base camp, Bailey’s Follyistheshort- camp,Bailey’s From base Msasa Café Chimanimani Bushwalking Company Chimanimani Bushwalking Track Hadange River pointintheChimanimani The highest The Bundi Valley isriddledwith For acheap drink,andalongchat with THE MIDLANDS & SOUTHEASTERN ZIMBABWE••Kwe THE MIDLANDS&SOUTHEASTERN Red WallCave Red

, aformerguerrillaroute between (mains aroundUS$4; ( % h 026-2935) 6am-6pm) sadza lies10minutes furtheron. isagoodbutchallenging Chimanimani NationalPark North Cave North andstew todelicious . But you’ll need to . Butyou’llneed , 19kmfromChi- Mt Binga h 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) , a30-minute Tessa’s Pool ( ontheMo- %

at thefill- caves 026-2932; Outward and , a

Offices. Offices. inside thefrontdoorof thegrandMunicipal Eighth St & Robert Mugabe Way; Mugabe Eighth St&Robert KWE Park. tiful butoften-ignored Gonarezhou National lowveld’s finestattractionisthewildlybeau- which gave itsnametothecountry.The tirikwe andthefabulousGreat Zim babwe, Masvingo. Nearby,istheexpansive Mu- Lake of thetworegions istheappealingtownof southeast isthelowveld. Atthetransition the highveld, whilethewarmer, lower-lying theMidlandsareGeographically, knownas ZIMBABWE SOUTHEASTERN THE MIDLANDS& camp. walkfrom thebase half-day and steep the US$2) camp at At ChimanimaniNationalPark youcaneither Sleeping &Eating and parkadmissionfees. Youcampincaves. guide, porter, transport,meals,campinggear includea days perperson US$45/240).Rates ing andcampingtripsinthepark(one/five Lobengula Ave; admissionZW$400; The Sights at somestage. lers’ many passthrough destination,though Zimbabwe’s fourth-largest cityisn’tatravel- % GWERU present. mercial gold-mining inZimbabwe, pastand provides afascinatingintroductiontocom- Ave; admissioninclguidedtourUS$2; there. you’rethough unlikely tospendthenight Hararejourney between andBulawayo, Kwe isaworthyplacetobreak upthe % The worthwhile The 054 055 mountain hut , whichin isattheparkentrance,orstay Zimbabwe Military Museum Zimbabwe Military / / Gweru PublicityAssociation Mutekeswane Base Camp BaseCamp Mutekeswane pop 128,000 pop 75,000 (per personUS$5) National Mining Museum National Mining h h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) , which isalong lonelyplanet.com h

(Midlands Museum; Museum; (Midlands (camping perperson 9am-5pm)

( 9am-5pm daily) % 28606; cnr isthe (First

big toys. planesandother and medals,aswelltanks, a predictable collectionof weapons,costumes only oneof itskindinthecountry. Ithouses lonelyplanet.com is derived from adopted after Zimbabwean independence, and chaotic. ThenameMasvingo, which was to thesouthwest,is typicallyAfrican–vibrant town laziness,while Mucheke township, 2km Masvingo emits acleanandroutinesmall- % MASVINGO after the1893Ndebeleuprising. doned andonlyrediscovered bywhite settlers bele invasionsof the1830s,site wasaban- past largely remains amystery. After theNde- amateur treasure hunters, butDanangombe’s originhavePortuguese uncovered been by roots andsheltered bylarge trees. Relicsof whole thingisovergrown bywandering tree formed partiallybynaturalboulders, butthe interesting feature isacrumblingenclosure butitisquietandunspoilt.Themost Nalatale, gombe mate pronunciation:‘hshlo hshlo’), The site is1kmuphillfromtheparkingarea. mately 27kmtothesignposted leftturn-off. Siding andfollowthegravel roadapproxi- turn southoff theBulawayoroadatDaisyfield ringbone andironstone. in Zimbabwe:chevron,chequer, cord,her- the primarydecorative wallpatterns found a decorated wall,exhibitsinonecollectionall the hills,plainsand ite hilltopenjoysacommandingviewacross ruins. Thissimplestructure onaremote gran- among thebestof Zimbabwe’s150walled Nalatale AROUND GWERU stock uphere is good. Africanfare. The bakeryplace serves inside all roomscomewithbreakfast. massive,rooms contain newbathroomsand value intown.It’squaintandfriendly,some shared bathroomUS$14/25,s/dUS$9/11) Pamusha GuestHouse Sleeping &Eating Commonly knownasDhlo(approxi- The ruinsare wellsignposted. FromGweru, OK Supermarket Café Waldorf 039 isn’taslovely as oraswellpreserved / (alsospeltNalatela orNalatele) rates pop 51,000 .

(54 Fifth St;mealsunderUS$1) THE MIDLANDS & SOUTHEASTERN ZIMBABWE••AroundGweru THEMIDLANDS&SOUTHEASTERN rusvingo,

(Robert Mugabe Way) Mugabe (Robert

( kopjes % 23535; 73KopjeRd;s/dwith . Themainfeature, theShona word Offers thebest You can Danan- This Robertson St. stairs andeasytomiss;the entranceisalong is convenient andfriendly. Thehostel isup- Offers dark,mustyandnoisyrooms,butit right inthecentreright of town. a large garden,thisissecure and friendlyand US$20, s/dwithbreakfast &shared bathroomfromUS$36/48) and internationalmagazines. (US$3). Mutirikwe ausefulmapofLake 9-11amSat)Sells Mon-Fri, St; Mugabe Robert [email protected]; pool and garden. andoverlookand most roomshave the aTV, butthisisconvenient, your usual‘Chevron’, St;s/dwithbreakfast US$60/90; Mugabe Rest Backpackers Sleeping 6pm). daily feeding times(usuallyat4.30pmand wildlife fromtheviewingplatformsduring the numberof passengers). It’seasytospot tour atthepark(theextracostdependson charter fromMasvingo, ataxi ortake aguided the roadtoHarare. Youcaneitherdrive or h turn leftyetagain. again. Justinfrontof barracks, themilitary the signpostandthenturnimmediately left from thecaravan park,take theleftturnat Drive (orwalk)4kmeasttowardsMutare completed 10years later byMasvingo artists. whilethewallmuralswere engineer, Italian werelated intheapse mosaics theworkof an died inZimbabweduringWWII.Thesimu- commemorate 71of theircompatriotswho POWsto 1942and1946byItalian tween admission free; The Sights Telco Cafe Internet PublicityAssociation Masvingo Kingston’s Information Mutirikwe (see p717 fordetails). fortripstoGreatbases Zimbabwe andLake theregoing andcompact,though are warmer nearby Great Zimbabwe. Masvingo iseasy- for ‘walled-inenclosures’, inreference tothe Robert Mugabe St) The only place to surf theNet. St)Theonlyplacetosurf Mugabe Robert Flame Lilly Chevron Hotel Chevron The small dawn-dusk) Church ofStFrancisAssisi (Robert Mugabe St)Thisbookshopsellsmaps Mugabe (Robert

lies5kmnorthof Masvingo along h (s/d withbreakfast US$40/60) Shagashe Game Park Shagashe Game (

8am-6pm) %

( % (Shop 5, 2nd fl, Old Mutual Centre, (Shop5,2ndfl,OldMutual 63581; [email protected]; 2 Robert 2Robert 63581; [email protected]; 63960; Josiah Tongogara Ave;63960; Josiah dm wasconstructed be- ( % s h

(admission US$8; 62643; Don’texpect

(Italian Chapel; ) 8am-5pm Set within Set 715

ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ( (about US$12perperson) atthe Alternatively, arrange atwo-hourguidedtour at anydecentbookshoparoundZimbabwe. to the Great Zimbabwe National Monument (US$6) atthemaingate or one of thelatest site thanwecanprovide here, tryandfind Africa. of Southern qualifyasahighlight certainly andhistory-soaked walls The grandsetting or houses) Shona origins; tocomefromoneofis believed twopossible Mozambique andSouthAfrica. Thename Zimbabwe andintomodern-dayBotswana, nated arealm thatstretched across eastern thiscityofcapital, 10,000to20,000domi- earlier scholars. As areligious andtemporal reached of alevel notsuspected by civilisation and provides thatancientAfrica evidence greatest cityinsub-SaharanAfrica medieval Zimbabwe Great % ZIMBABWE GREAT 716 % GREAT ZIMBABWE If you need moreIf youneed informationaboutthe 039 7055) THE MIDLANDS & SOUTHEASTERN ZIMBABWE••Great Zimbabwe THE MIDLANDS&SOUTHEASTERN or Information Centre, agrandly orInformationCentre, Great Zimbabwe Campground dzimba woye Rondavels

(admission US$20; National dzimba dzamabwe Gate Main Park

Great Zimbabwe Outer Perimeter Wall Perimeter Outer (Guides) Centre Information

Watergate (esteemed houses). houses). (esteemed Dormitories (500m) Matombo To NationalPark Ascent h Curios A Trail Guide Inner Wall Perimeter 6am-6pm) Modern Ascent (great stone Daga Hut Remains Ancient booklets main gate Terrace Museum isthe Ancient Ascent Ascent ὄ Enclosures The Ridge

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Cliff Face Enclosure Eastern The GreatEnclosure National Emblem Bird FoundHere Parallel Passage Inner Enclosures Perim Valley Eastern Ridge Enclosures

e 200m 0.1miles 0 0 ter Wall lonelyplanet.com Karanga Village Reconstructed Enclosure The Valley Eastern and becametheheartof Rozwiculture. Royal into apowerfulreligious andpoliticalcapital, 100 years. while theremainder wasbuiltover thenext Park (Kyle)Recreational Mutirikwe ZIMBABWE••Lake THEMIDLANDS&SOUTHEASTERN decorative chevron patterns. wall. This stretch iscapped bythree rings of to the 11m-high toaddstability stone tapering and 4mthickatthe top,witheach course of in Great Zimbabwe,is6m thickatthebase the mostarchitecturally advancedstructure outside wallof theParallel Passage, perhaps build theentire wallinasuperiormanner. The matically over timethattheydecidedtore- skills of thebuilders hadimproved sodra- It mayalsohave thattheconstruction been being detected withintheenclosure. bythose ern entrancetotheConicalTowerwithout have ameansof been moving fromthenorth- the narrow70m-long significance. ceremonial structure that probably hadphallic tion isthe10m-high are 5mthick. Thegreatest sourceof specula- 11mand,inplaces, wallsrise The mortarless est ancientstructure insub-SaharanAfrica. wide and255mincircumference, it’sthelarg- identified withGreat Zimbabwe. Nearly100m as aroyalcompound,isthestructure most of Zimbabwe. stone birdsthatbecamethenationalsymbol The area toolsandthesoap- yieldedmetal and Ascent andTerrace Ascent converge. is theWestern Enclosure, where theAncient and ritualenclosures. feature Itsmostsalient ofknown astheAcropolis)wasaseries royal tures tobecompleted, the Probably thefirst of majorThe site is dividedintoseveral ruins. Sights the citywasvirtuallydeserted. arrivedthe Portuguese inthe16thcentury, Zimbabwe soondeclinedrapidly,andwhen emigration tomore productive lands.Great had depleted localresources, necessitating impacts, and theirassociated environmental the growinghumanandbovine population, victim of itsownsuccess:bythe15thcentury, Greateventually Zimbabweprobably becamea herds increased andcoffers overflowed. But Fuelled bySwahiligoldtrade,thecitygrew Leading northfromtheConicalToweris Leading The The daga Great Enclosure Great Valley (traditional round house) platforms. (traditionalroundhouse) is a series of isaseries 13th-centurywalls the Great Zimbabwestruc- , thought to have served tohave, thought served Conical Tower Parallel Passage Hill Complex Hill , asolidand . Itmay (once US$8, dmUS$25,rondavelswithshared bathroomperperson tsetse-fly control measurestsetse-fly (involving both ing onwildlife during thelate 1960s, habitats encroach- began agriculture large-scale When GONAREZHOU NATIONAL PARK from thecapital. toHarare enough Kyle isclose todoadaytrip then make adaytriptothepark.Alternatively, accommodation isaroundGreat Zimbabwe; other parkinZimbabwe. Yourbestbetfor It alsohasmore speciesof antelopes thanany that ithostsahealthynumberof white rhinos. Park (Kyle) Game ern shore, themainfeature of the KyleRecreational Park). Alongthenorth- Mutirikwe Recreational Park (stilloften called Zimbabwe’s second-largest dam(90sqkm). Mutirikwe River tocreate Mutirikwe, Lake In 1961a305m-widewallwasbuiltacross % RECREATIONAL PARK LAKE MUTIRIKWE(KYLE) lacks somelife duetoalackof visitors! like though décor, comfortable, everywhere it east of Great Zimbabwe,isgoodvalue. Dated a woodedhillabove Mutirikwe,6km Lake zimbabwe.co.zw; B&BUS$180) the place. fully withthelandscapeandconceptof amongrecreatedset ‘ruins’toblendbeauti- designedindividualAfricanlodges Beautifully main gate. Parks &Wildlife Zimbabwe,sobookatthe gate. placesare These notrunbyNational butisolatedoff, –about1kmfromthemain Thedormitorybuildingisfencedor security. cheap, whilethecampsite offers littleshade of themaingate. Therondavels are small,but US$40) baboonsandmonkeys.thieving ofsight theHillComplex.Watch outforthe & Monuments,isinsidethemaingate within US$5/9) ing perpersonUS$3,dmUS$1.50,rondavels/d is basicallyatruckstopand26kmaway. Great ZimbabwethanMasvingo, asthetown If it’stheruinsyouwant,better at tostay Sleeping &Eating Inn on Great Zimbabwe Inn onGreat ZimbabweCampground Great The lake ispartof the22,000-hectare Lake Lodge attheAncientCity National Park Accommodation 039 Strungoutalongatrailthatheadssouth This camp, run by National Museums Thiscamp,runbyNationalMuseums

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( % % 64879; iogz@innsof

(camping perperson

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ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE Bulawayo styles itself asthe‘City ofBulawayo stylesitself theKings’, (Hill of days, Chiefs)underMzilikazi. These executions undertaken onThabasIndunas which of probablycameabout because the inally calledGu- Bulawayo (KillingPlace), citywas orig- Zimbabwe’s intriguingsecond % BULAWAYO time inZimbabwe. an excellentplacetospendamajority of your Park Kariba, andLake western Zimbabweis Victoria Falls (see p626 ), Hwange National With three of thecountry’s major attractions, ZIMBABWE WESTERN are accessible withouta4WD. both and flush toilets,andinthedryseason Both ChipindaandChingulihave showers hippos. Furtherupstream isChinguliCamp. overlooks vegetation-lined poolsteeming with gravelbut easilypassable road.Thecampsite 63km fromChiredzi alongabadlycorrugated Runde subregion istheidyllicChipindaPools, (opposite ). Bulawayo & Wildlife ZimbabweinHarare ( p695 ) or cost aboutUS$70.BookatNationalParks US$50 perperson, whilechalets atSwimuwini The costsof campingrange fromUS$20to Sleeping andSwimuwini. Mbalauta the nationalparkcampsatChipindaPools, November toApril,accessisnotallowed require a4WD,especiallyinthesouth.From able to2WDvehicles, mostare and rough the three countries(withnoboundaries). Transfrontier Park and Mozambiquecreated the vant authoritiesinZimbabwe, SouthAfrica borders Mozambique. So,inlate 2002therele- of SouthAfrica’sKruger NationalPark and h becameanationalpark.) serve (In1975there-Gonarezhou GameReserve. chunk of southeastern Zimbabwebecamethe along thebordergrew, soascenic,5055-sq-km wildlife refuge andapoaching-control corridor the lives of 55,000large animals.Pressure fora large-scale bush-burning andshooting) claimed 718 Gonarezhou NationalParkGonarezhou The mostaccessiblecampsite intheSave- someroadsintheparkareAlthough pass- 09 6am-6pm May-Oct) / WESTERN ZIMBABWE••Bulawayo pop 1million , a35,000-sq-kmparkacross isvirtuallyanextension

(admission US$10; Great Limpopo Great internet service. internet service. Bulawayo Centre; near the Ascot Racecourse, off St Lukes Ave. offStLukes near theAscotRacecourse, andmostaccessiblepublichospital; The best-equipped services. services. % magazines. bookshop sellsmaps,novelsandafew international MEDICAL SERVICES MEDICAL SERVICES Communications Tshaka’s Kwik Net ACCESSINTERNET Service AirRescue Medical police Main EMERGENCY Kingston’s BOOKSHOPS Information National Park, onthewaytoVictoriaFalls. pointfortripstoHwangealso anidealstaging and Matobo NationalPark (see p722 ). It’s nearby attractions,such Ruins astheKhami fortripsto and eat.Bulawayoisalsoabase plenty of attractionsandgreat placestostay a prosperousandhistoricmetropoliswith Bulawayo Publicity Association Bulawayo PublicityAssociation INFORMATION TOURIST numbers have five digits andothers six. post office. Note thatsomeBulawayophone Telephones booths are insideandaroundthe TELEPHONE restante. St; & Main postoffice Main POST runclinicisbetterthanthecentralhospital. privately % Clinic Medical HouseEmergency Galen Hospital Bulawayo Central facilities. US$0.30; or thesmallerofficeinCentralPark. Takawira Ave &Fife thisoffice, St)Foremergenciescontact Bulawayo. Itsellsthe detailed in andevents tours, activities accommodation, transport, car park,offLeopold Takawira Ave; hasinformation on 8.30am-noonSat)IntheCity Hall 4.45pm Mon-Fri, % 60351; 42 Robert Mugabe Way)Forambulance Mugabe 60351; 42Robert 540051; cnr Josiah TongogaraSt& NinthAve)540051; cnrJosiah This 60867; www.arachnid.co.zw/bulawayo; 60867; www.arachnid.co.zw/bulawayo; h h (Map (Map p721 ; cnrNinthAve St;perhr &Main (Map (Map p721 ; 91JasonMoyoSt)Kingston’s

8am-10pm) Hasphone,faxandinternet station Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8-11amSat)Hasposte 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, h (Map (Map p721 ; 8am-6pm) Hasaphone,faxand Mp p721; (Map Bulawayo Mobil Street Atlas (Map (Map p721 ; (MARS; Map (MARS; Map p721 ; (Map (Map p719 ; % % 62535; cnrEighthAve (Map (Map p721 ; lonelyplanet.com 72516; cnrLeopold % % h (Map (Map p721 ; 66992; 72111) 8.30am- A7 % more reliable. ( at theHarare headquarters p695 ), where thesystemis National Park.Forother parksyou’llbebetteroffbooking Takes 4pm Mon-Fri) forMatobo accommodation bookings lonelyplanet.com National Parks &WildlifeZimbabwe andusefuladdresses.upcoming events (US$0.60) anddistributes To KhamiRuins(19km) Bus Terminal(3km) To Entumbane 4 Mpopoma 1 3 2 5 BULAWAYO

Francistown (Botswana)(185km) To Plumtree(94km); Nketa Dr 63646; cnr Herbert ChitepoSt&Tenth63646; cnrHerbert Ave; Matshobana Westgate Steeldale Mpopoma Ave Rd Luveve Train Station Mpopoma Donnington AC

Southwold

Bellevue Rd Khami

Derby Rd Derby Station Rd WESTERNZIMBABWE••Bulawayo Wellington Rd Wellington Nguboyenja Plumtree Rd Bulawayo ThisMonth, Thorngrove Montrose Belmont

Barham To TshabalalaWildlife Ave Sixth Green Matobo National Sanctuary (4km); Barbour Mzilikazi Fields Park (28km)

Raylton Bulawayo Extension Masotsha Ndlovu

Ave Morningside Rd Falls Old

A8 Third Ave Ext. Ave Third

Mp p721; (Map 23rd Ave West Ave 23rd Makokoba Moffat Ave Dundee Dr B Greenhill Show Ground Trade Fair& whichlists h Agricultural Famona ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ See CentralBulawayoMap(p721) Society

8am- Fourth Ave Fourth

Twelfth Ave Twelfth Main St Lady Stanley Ave

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Lancaster Athlone Ave Central

Parkview

Park Rennies Travel Rennies TRAVEL AGENCIES p721; Wildlife &EnvironmentSocietyofZimbabwe bookings. Ave)Eleventh Canarrange internationaltravel Fidelityafricaonline.co.zw; Life Centre, cnrFife St& Centenary Mattie Rd Mattie Cumberland Dr Northend Kenilworth Bradfield

Mabukuwene

Durham Rd Park

Burns Dr Burns Leander Ave Rd Hillside Suburbs Reserve Nature Ave %

Weir Ave Third St Third

Napier Ave Ave Burnside Chipping Kipling Netherby Dr Sunnyside

77309; 105Fife St) Way St Seventh Cecil Ave Masefield

Rd 2

Tennyson Fairbr Phillips Ave

Percy Ave Robert Mugabe Way

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Romney Park

Whitesto Banff Rd Banff 2km 1mile 0 0 Massimo's...... Nesbitt Castle...... Holiday Inn...... iysLde...... C4 Lily's Lodge...... EATING SLEEPING 1 To Airport(19km)

4 George Ave

St Lukes Ave Takawira Leopold 3

% Way Bulawayo

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Central Harare Rd Dam Hillside

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Dams 880531; rtzim@ Percy Ave Rd Esigodoni Kumalo Not Depicted

Coghlan Ave Parklands Johannesburg (866km) To Masvingo(280km); Fortunes D Matseumlope Beitbridge (320km); Upper Gate Dam To Harare (436km) 4 3 2 1 Fortunes Cecil Ave

719 (Map (Map A6

C3 D4 C3 Gate Rd ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE a mere US$36! ful adviceonsurroundingareas. Breakfast is café serves coffee, cakes andsandwiches. café serves St;snacksfrom US$3; Main coffee are someof thebestinZimbabwe. inanoldfabricfactory/shop; thecakes and Set Brooks Fabrics CoffeeShop Eating and soisthefood. and romanticinterlude. Theplaceisbeautiful differenttotally –agreat placeforadecadent its décor,each of guestroomsbeing theeight thisplaceisquite surrealman ashishouse, in [email protected]) r US$124) for guests. withfoodanddancing traditional evenings hasalocalatmosphere.house Lilyorganises rUS$30) Rd,Malindela; .com; 3Masefield off TwelfthAve. phone andinternet access.Theentranceis the city,thiswelcomingbackpackers offers per personUS$4,s/dUS$8/12; 1OakAve,.co.zw; Suburbs;campingperpersonUS$3, dm Rest Packer’s Sleeping artistsatwork. dios where youcansee There’s also asouvenir shop,acaféandstu- porary Zimbabweansculpture andpaintings. porary andpermanentexhibitionsof contem- hundred-year-old colonialbuilding,hastem- sion US$0.20; St&Leopold TakawiraDouslin House,cnrMain Ave; admis- coachpassenger withoriginalfittings. –a1904 onwheels’ a‘museum 1890s andeven extravagant carriage Rhodes’ builtinthe Cecil lection of antiquelocomotives, rollingstock, US$0.05; p721; (Map Train enthusiastsmustvisitthe Sights at night. as itoncewas.Avoid walkingaloneanywhere eral desperationmeanit’snotnearlyassafe massive inunemploymentandgen- increases Bulawayo ismore laid-back thanHarare, but Dangers &Annoyances 720 The Café Baku Café Nesbitt Castle Holiday Inn Lily’s Lodge WESTERN ZIMBABWE••Bulawayo Convenient, cleanandhassomeuse- h National Art Gallery Gallery National Art % 9am-4pm). h

322452; cnr Prospect Ave322452; cnrProspect &First St;admission

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Mp p719; (Map Mp p719; (Map 9am-5pm Tue-Sun)

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% % i 883809; BulawayoCentre, 251111; packers@mweb 245356; nyararai@excite Mp p721; (Map Thissmall, trendy 282726/735/736; nesbitt 252464; Milnerton Rd; 252464; Milnerton ) Convenient to , inabeautiful % Railway Museum Railway Thislarge 66373; Fife St) % 70721;

p2 Eeet Ave) Eleventh p721; ture festival, aroundJuneandJuly. Festival,annual Inxusa atraditionalfolkcul- and musicproductions.Italsoorganises the traditional andcontemporary theatre, dance African theatre, offtheOldFalls Rd,stages St) Square CulturalCentre, BaschSt;admissionUS$1.50) others are away. sent chooses hisclientele fromthequeueoutside, décor isauthentic,itshosteccentric–he Department Store Department Way & George Silundika St;dishes US$4) Silundika Way &George evenings. evenings. Sun) atmosphere. bow Hotel) back. Most Bulawayopubsandclubsare fairlylaid- Entertainment Try the SELF-CATERING dishes. Chinese neighbouring thatserve takeaways St;dishesUS$4) Silundika Way&George Mugabe Centre steaks, excellent choice alsoserves ing incappuccinosandicecream, thispopular Way, btwnTenth Aves; &Eleventh mainsUS$20) mains aroundUS$15) carvings, paintingsand artefacts. Try carvings, local jewellery, textiles,craft galleries selling general shopping. (Map p721 ; cnrAscotWay&Leopold Takawira) is linedwithcraftstalls. The footpathalongFife StneartheCityHall Shopping shows afew flicks. St&NinthAve)Main Rd) Centre, Hillside St) Bulawayo Centre, Main chicken andsnacks. andthetrulymassive Bonne Journée Amakhosi Theatre Amakhosi Rainbow CityCinema Rainbow Brass Monkey Pub&Restaurant Walkers Alabama Massimo’s Old Vic Pub Old Vic Bulawayo isalso a goodplaceforartand Tunku’s Tunku’s A pleasant, casualbarwithliveA pleasant, jazzmost

(Map p721 ; p721; (Map Spar Supermarket exudesanAnglo-Zimbabwean (Map (Map

(Map (Map p721 Hotel; ; BulawayoRainbow Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

(Map (Map p719 ; insideAscotShoppingCentre;

(Map p721 ; p721; (Map Also agoodpubfordrink. or even better, oreven the Thismultiscreen complexstill p721 ;

The Italian cuisineandthe TheItalian Mp p721; (Map Mp p719 ; (Map (Map (Map p721 ; cnrEightAve &Fife St). %

Eighth Ave, btwn Robert Mugabe Eighth Ave, Mugabe btwnRobert Good foradrink. Mp p721; (Map 72828; EighthAve, btwnRobert (Map (Map p721 ; BulawayoCentre, cnr

Mp p2 Hret Chitepo Herbert p721; (Map % Ascot ShoppingCentre Ascot % TM Hypermarket 881273; BulawayoRain-

Mp p721; (Map 64839; Robert Mugabe Mugabe 64839; Robert % 880495; Zonk’Izizwe lonelyplanet.com and 62652; Township isgoodfor Haddon &Sly Specialis- Chop Suey % piri-piri Tendele h This 69527; are (Map (Map

Wed-

lonelyplanet.com (3km) Bus Terminal To Entumbane (24km) To KhamiRuins 4 6 1 3 2

5 CENTRAL BULAWAYO

To Plumtree(106km)

Wingrove Rd Wingrove

Anthony Taylor Ave Taylor Anthony Station Train Walsall St Rd Woodstock Bulawayo PublicityAssociation...... Wildlife &EnvironmentZimbabwe... Tshaka’s Communication...... (see17) Rennies Travel...... Office...... Medical AirRescueService(MARS).... Main PostOffice...... Main PoliceStation...... Kwik Net...... Clinic...... National Parks&WildlifeZimbabwe B5 Kingston's...... Galen HouseEmergencyMedical

Waverly St INFORMATION

Prospect Ave Prospect

Caxton St Caxton Khami Rd Khami Makokoba 13

Market

Fourth Rd Fourth AC 26

Taylor Rd Taylor

Railway Ave Railway Basch St Rd Eighth

Josiah Chinamano

WESTERNZIMBABWE••CentralBulawayo

Sixth Ave Sixth

Stockton Third Ave Extension Ave Third

Ὀ Ὀ Second St

Mortuary St

Exten

Old

Herbert Chitepo St Market sion Falls To VictoriaFalls Plumtree Rd 8

10 Fourteenth Ave Fourteenth Eleventh Ave Eleventh (442km) To MatoboNational Park(49km)

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Fort St 27

Thirteenth Ave Thirteenth Leopold Takawira Ave Takawira Leopold

19 Fifteenth Ave Fifteenth 18 C4 B5 B5 B5 C4 B4 B4 B5 C5

Main St Ave Sixth Lobengula St

17 Eighth Ave Eighth B National ArtGallery...... City Hall...... Haddon &SlyDepartmentStore....(see23) Chop SueyCentre...... (see20) Café Baku...... Brooks FabricsCoffeeShop...... Bone Journée...... Packer's Rest...... ala uem...... A5 Railway Museum...... Herbert Chitepo St EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES

6 Twelfth Ave Twelfth

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Fifth Ave Fifth

16 Masotsha Ndlovu Ave Ndlovu Masotsha 4 Stanley Ave Lady

Fife St Ave Tenth Fort St Ninth Ave Ninth 3 12 Main St 9 10 23

5 Jason Moyo St Third Ave Third Hillside Rd Hillside

Robert Mugabe Way Market Second Ave Second 11

25 Connaught St Connaught First Ave First 20 24

Josiah Tongogara St 15 Fife St Show Ground 1 Trade Fair& Agricultural 22 21

Society Beit Selous Beit

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Samuel Parirenyatwa St Ave Fourth

Park George Silundika St St Heany 2 To BrassMonkey (1km); Stadium

7 Caravan Way Caravan Lily's Lodge(2km) Robert Mugabe Way 17 16 15 14 13 12 11

Queens St B5 B5 C5 C6 B4 C4 Twelfth Ave Twelfth Josiah Tongogara St TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT DRINKING leArwTria...... C4 Blue ArrowTerminal...... Samuel Parirenyatwa St TM HypermarketBusTerminal...... Renkini BusTerminal...... Local BusTerminal...... Tendele CurioShop...... Induna Arts...... Rainbow CityCinema...... (see17) Walkers Pub&Resaurant...... (see17) Old VicPub...... (see21) Alabama...... Tunku's...... TM Hypermarket...... Spar Supermarket......

0.4mi 600m 0 0 Leopold Takawira Ave Takawira Leopold

Oak Ave Central Park Suburbs

14 Caravan Way Caravan

Centenary Park Harare Rd Harare Park Rd Natural History

First St St First Hume Park Rd Museum of Heyman Rd

Central Hospital(2km); Second St Second

Centre (1km);Holiday Third St Third Inn (1km);Bulawayo D Masvingo (283km); Beitbridge (323km)

Duncan Rd To AscotShopping

Seventh St Seventh Dawlish St Dawlish

Clark Rd St Sixth To Harare 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 (438km)

721 Pauling Rd B5 A3 C4 B5 C5 C5 C5 B5 B4 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE May-Oct, 8am-5pmNov-Apr) May-Oct, only sells (notrents)only sells campingequipment. muchZimbabwe –which –butit isn’tsaying ais iron smelters in making theinfamous still shelter clayovens, which were as used over 20,000years old).Some hidden niches tions intheworld of Sanpaintings(many sites rock-art 425-sq-km parkare 3000officially registered tional parkinthecountry.Dotted aroundthe 33km southof Bulawayo,istheoldestna- Matobo MATOBO (MATOPOS) NATIONAL PARK missionary. putedly placedthere byanearlyPortuguese platform withastoneDominicancross, re- walling. Alsoatthenorthernendisanodd greatestKhami’s concentrationof stone complex features hutplatformsand several Complex which destroyedKhami. apparently absorbedbythelarger Rozwi state, century. Inthelate 17thcentury,Torwawas was builtbytheTorwadynastyin16th h This RUINS (KAME) KHAMI Bulawayo. includingtransporttoandfrom the sanctuary, mountain-bike tours (US$25perperson) of wayo PublicityAssociation) offers half-day about thehistoryandfauna. tive centre atthemaingate explainsabitmore Lobengula’s daughters. Thesmallinterpreta- arrived in1883,andhisNdebelewife, oneof owned byFairburn Usher, who aBritishsailor Bulawayo. onlandformerly Itwasestablished small This SANCTUARY GAME TSHABALALA Skyline price before out. setting beaten byinflation,soensure youagree ona The meters have on Bulawayotaxis been Around Getting St) dika Arts Shop Curio 722 Eezee Kamping Eezee At thenorthernendof the ruins, the Adventure Bula- through Trails(contact (spears) against thecolonialhordes. used 8am-4.30pm)

(Map (Map p721 ; Unesco World Heritage Site Unesco WorldHeritage isprobablythebestoutdoors shopin WESTERN ZIMBABWE••Tshabalala Sanctuary Game

(

% ( served astheroyalenclosure. The served %

Mp p721; (Map 470502) 083-8258; admissionUS$23; , includingoneof thebestcollec- sanctuary , 22kmwestof centralBulawayo, % Mp p721; (Map

69179; 121 Josiah TongogaraSt) 69179; 121Josiah are reasonable options. %

(admission US$9; is9kmsouthof central 52391; 90Fife St) Rixi TaxiRixi % 62105; 95 George Silun- 62105; 95George

( % (admission US$5;

h and h 261933) 6am-6pm) 6am-6pm Induna asseg- . and Hill Hill , a shortwalkfromthesignposted carpark. of thevalleyfloor. The outside thepark,grazingondrygrasses rhinos Surprisingly, it’snotunusualtosee down theMjelele Valley totheMjelele Dam. antelopes, baboons, hyraxes andzebras. and northwestof Maleme Damishometo rangers andpicnicsites. offices Thearea west with itscampsite, general store, horse stables, Park oronanorganised walk. village; ridingintheMatobo gohorse Game the famousrockartgalleries;visitanNdebele outWorld’sView, among therocks.Check as theoriginalKalanga grainbinsthatnestle solitude withinanintimate retreat assecluded the overwhelming of tranquillity.Find sense Stroll alongthegranite ridges andexperience Activities & Sights Association (see p718 ). ment ZimbabweortheBulawayoPublicity (northern) gate; orfromWildlife &Environ- Maps of theparkare available fromthemain Information entire Mtjaan troopwaswiped outbyGeneral 33 soldiers of hisShangani River Patrol. (The in 1904tothememory of AllanWilsonand Grave,just downhillfrom Rhodes’ was erected Spirits).The evolent knew asMalindidzimu (DwellingPlaceof Ben- reintroduced intoMatobo. basis of thispainting,rhinoswere successfully Onthe and exquisitely drawnwildebeest. ures behindthem,andfive well-observed the headof ablackrhino,withhumanfig- executed outlinesof five white rhinosand Zimbabwe. Most prominentare thefinely drawings are foundhere –arare artformin thanpolychrome paintings,outline Rather called greatest concentrationof blackeagles. of theworld’sspeciesof eagles,includingthe owls; infact,Matobo ishometoone-third Africanhawkeaglesorrare eagle see Cape also extensive. Youmay have thechance to wildlife, includingleopards.Thebirdlife is will bringmisfortune. topointatthem thateven and localsbelieve One),areadzi (Bald nowconsidered sacred, Some peaks,such asShumba Shaba andIm- The The busiestpartof Matobo is Cecil Rhodes’ Grave Rhodes’ Cecil With thehistorycomesasuperbarrayof World’s View Northern WildArea Northern , which theNdebelepeople is atop the mountain he isatopthemountain Shangani River Memorial Shangani River White Rhino Shelter Rhino White offers gloriousviews lonelyplanet.com Maleme Dam Maleme lies , , half dayUS$55). ideal waytoexplore Matobo (alldayUS$70, Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Tours remarkable lifeRhodes’ andcareer. ofat thebottomof thehilloutlineshighlights and his30,000Ndebelewarriors.) Adisplay lonelyplanet.com powered pumps). But whentherains come which are artificiallyfilled by noisy,petrol- around the60water holesor ‘pans’(mostof is JulytoOctober whenanimalscongregate the world.Thebest timeforwildlife viewing of thelargest numbers (30,000) of elephantsin birds and107typesof animals,includingone packed park inZimbabwe. the largest (14,651sqkm) andmostwildlife- Hwange HWANGE NATIONAL PARK (p626). Falls toria either before youcome,orinHarare orVic- Park. Yourbestbetistoarrange everything gateway (of sorts)totheHwange National BulawayoandVictoriaFallsbetween anda Wankie) isastopover townalongtheroad Hwange (sometimesstillpronounced % HWANGE tages withprivate bathroomsand balconies. Park. There are thatched A-frame seven cot- wayo andlocated ontheedge of theNational .com) isUS$5. use the parksoffice inBulawayo( p719 ). Vehicle Maleme Dam.Youmustbookinadvanceat the park,andthere are chalets andlodges at tive rUS$326) ing perpersonUS$11,chalet/lodgetwUS$74/112;execu- NationalPark Matobo Sleeping &Eating hotmail.com) 289733; www.khangela.com) www.cirtours.co.zw) safaris.com) Safaris Black Rhino day tripsorovernight tripstoMatobo include from US$50/90).Safarioperators offering and Whovi GamePark (day-trip/overnight driving excursions toMatobo NationalPark Safari operators andlodges offer walkingand Big Cave Camp Big Cave Trails Adventure Hwange ishometosome400species of 081 InMatobo Hills,thisis46kmfromBula-

(admission perdayUS$15; , Circle Court Tours&Safaris Circle Court offers bikingtours mountain –an There are campsites in several (

WESTERNZIMBABWE••Hwange % and ( %

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% 09-881309;

( % 09- is services, including arangers office,grocery services, is atthemajor parkentrance. Itoffers most at the the greatest variety of wildlife canbefound particularly popular withelephants,though themagnificent hicle. Itpasses camp is hanging around ifthere’smain camp,check tosee anywildlife a popularwater hole. Onthewayfrom rise the is nearthemaincamp. Onehighlight starting and petrolstation. shop (open7amto7pmdaily),souvenir shop The main Camp Main Hwange are included inyourcost. yourlodge/operatorbe organised through and under 12are notpermitted. Otherwalkscan Children orRobinsCamp. Sinamatella Camp booked inadvanceatHwange Main Camp, walksmustbe These from Sinamatella Camp. at Hwange Main andtoMandavu Camp, Dam Panarmed guardstoSedina canbeorganised Two-hour Activities by 2pm(andviceversa). Main soyoumustleave Camp, Sinamatella Sinamatella is125kmnorthwestof Hwange Robins bynoon(andviceversa). Similarly, of Hwange Main soyoumustdepart Camp, (and viceversa). Also,Robinsis150kmwest must leave Robinsby3pmtoreach Sinamatella atella, andparkregulations stipulate thatyou is60kmwestof Sinam- RobinsCamp Camp. Main andRobins Sinamatella Camp Camp, available attherangers offices attheHwange sort of vehicle you’re driving. toofarintothepark,regardlessoff of what camps) aboutroadconditionsbefore heading always consultaranger (atanyof thethree And if drivinga2WDduringthewetseason. May advice between andOctober,butseek is good throughout. is goodthroughout. fraction of wildlife thispark,though viewing a and antlerroom.Mostvisitors willonlysee spread abitof trunk acrosstheparkseeking requires more diligence,theanimals because and therivers are flowing,successfulviewing Most visitors make afew convenient loops Access ispossible inanysturdyvehicle Information andmapsabouttheparkare Nyamandhlovu Pan Nyamandhlovu Nyamandhlovu Viewing Platform Viewing Nyamandhlovu Ngwethla Picnic Site Ngwethla Loop camp walking safaris walking

( % Dom Pan 371; fax378; , which features thehigh- , accessibletoany ve- .

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, ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE 724 0 20 km HWANGE NATIONAL PARK 0 12 miles

To Victoria G To Mlibizi (28km) WESTERN ZIMBABWE••HwangeNationalPark wa A Falls (39km) B Bingwa Lo C D a E & Binga (93km) F A8 o i p Chingahali Matetsi Rd Creek (1207m) Thompson River River Junction Zanguja Hwange (1035m) Kamativi 1 LEGEND Colliery Lukosi Matetsi Mission FA Forest Area No 2 Colliery FL Forest Land No 1 NP National Park A8 Deka Ingagula Colliery Gwaai (1078m) No 3 R Tsabolisa i Dete Crossroads ve Junction Surichegi r (1084m) Silewu Gwaai River Safari Mine Bumbusi Lukosi (1135m) Railway Crossroads Tshowe Ruins Rive Siding r To Pandamatenga r Bumbusi River e iv (5km) (1152m) R Dv Lukosi op 4 Tshowe Crocodile Chingahobi Dam Lo Boabab Hwange NP 2 Picnic Site ra e DrNantwich Camp Pools u Pan u Airport h t

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Ma Dam Mpofu 2 Deka Camp Little Deteema Sibaya r Tom's Bejane Siding D (1049m) Chibisa Pan Pan ck Pan Dr Salt Pan River bu Windmills si Tshompani Reed ko Fossil u Tshebetshebe L Pans Forest Tshabema Pan Big Tom's Mandavu Tshompani Sedina Pan Dulilo Pan Lukosi Pan Viewing Platform Pan Dam 1 Masuma Garakamwe Pan To Bulawayo Gusu Pan (230 km) Bejane Dam Nyamandhlovu Pan Sikumi Manzimbomvo Pan Dom Pan FA Pan Mabuya Mabema Pan ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὄὈὈὈCaterpillarὄ Nyamandhlovu 3 Kapami Shumba Guvalala Pan Pan Viewing Platform Dandari Pan Pan Bembi Pan Loop Dopi Pan Pan Guvalala Pan Hwange NP Viewing Platform Kennedy Pan I Picnic Site Danga Pan Shapi White Hill Pan Kennedy Pan Pan No 1 Ngwethla Jambile Pan Kennedy Ngamo INFORMATION Robins Camp...... 3 A2 Pan No 2 B O T S W A N A Manga 1 FL ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὄRangers Office...... (see 1) Sinamatellaὄὄὄ Camp...... ὄ4 C2 ὄὈὈὈὄὈὈ Manga 2

Rangers Office...... (see 3) Ngwethla LoopSamavundhla lonelyplanet.com Pan Rangers Office...... (see 4) EATING Waterbuck's Head...... (see 1) Ngwethla Picnic Site 4 SLEEPING Manga 3 Summamalisha Hwange Main Camp...... 1 E3 Pan ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈHwange Safari Lodge...... 2 E2 ὄὄὈὈ est of thethree maincamps. Itsitsatopa55m camps inthecountry.Namedafter theman- per personall-inclusiveUS$275) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com the airportandHwange SafariLodge. Bulawayo andVictoriaFalls: viaDete, andvia between roadsfromthehighway two sealed lonelyplanet.com p703 ), ischaracterised bywilderness out- little resemblance totheeastern half(see The western halfof Kariba,Lake which bears WESTERN LAKE KARIBA rangers office atHwange main camp. restaurant outsidethemaingate and right Rd,Chisipite,176 Enterprise Harare. can bemadeatitsoffice intheTriton Centre, accommodation anddecentfood. Bookings TheHidehasgoodguides,lovelyclose-up, made hidingpointsforviewingelephants and activitiesare alsoavailable tothepublic. to nonguests)andswimmingpool,tours hole. Amenities includearestaurant/bar (open overlookrooms thoughtfully apopular water more like amotel thanalodge, all though estate withintheSikumiForest Area. Itlooks US$180/220; activities Lodge Hwange Safari Sleeping &Eating grocery shop,andhorridrestaurant/bar. display,souvenirmuseum shop,virtuallyempty invade thechalets ifgiven halfachance. the restaurant lookingforhand-outsandeven vicious littlehoneybadgers skitter around screeches, thumpsandbumps.Atanytime, of thehill,alongwithahost of unidentified disconcerting howlingof hyenas atthefoot to behaunted bytheroaringof lionsandthe time thatSinamatella really comesalive: expect grassy patch belowthecamp, butit’satnight andantelopes inthe buffaloes day, you’llsee withacommanding50kmpanorama.mesa By Sinamatella Camp Sinamatella Little Tom’sPan spots nearbyare and restaurant/bar. Thebestwildlife viewing stockedern boundary,hasasparsely shop This Robins Camp Hwange Main isaccessiblealong Camp Waterbuck’s Head Waterbuck’s Hide Safari Camp Safari Hide Amenities onoffer includearangers office, camp

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h ( % % ) Onamassive private h office 7am-6pm) 4 498835;www.thehide.com; 750; fax337;s/dinclmeals& Oneof thebestsafari 7am-6pm) Acharming bar/ , atthewest- isthenic- and ing and bungee jumping; the less excitable can ing andbungee jumping; thelessexcitable line pumping withwhite-water rafting,abseil- Africa. Theadventurous canget theiradrena- activities inZimbabwe, ifnotallof Southern Victoria Falls (see p618 ) istheepicentre of ACTIVITIES (p719). Bulawayo and (p695 ) Harare in dation are available theNPWZoffices through travelthrough agents. in Harare oryoucanbook is very efficient outdoors.bath andabraiistand TheNPWZ cheap andvery basic,often withjustbeds,a larger commercialhotels are. Theyare very rivers, waterfalls viewsthan andmountain the lodges tothelakes, willbelocated closer Given thattheyare inthenationalparks, someofindeed thebestplacesinAfrica. inthebestlocationsZimbabwe, to stay Zimbabwe’s nationalparksprovide thechance National ParkAccommodation prices withslippingstandards. visitor maybereconciling very real first-world something toshow.Thebiggest hurdlefor the of clearlyhavecollapse thetourismsector there, the which have butthose survived good amenities,andsmileyifslowservice. thatremainthose offer stunninglocations, While manylodges andhotels have closed, ture remains someof thebestinregion. since 2001,Zimbabwe’stourisminfrastruc- ithasenjoyedlittledevelopment Although ACCOMMODATION ZIMBABWE DIRECTORY tiring walks. around withoutavehicle somehotand entails sprawls fromtheshore tothehills,andgetting tive stools,headrests anddrums.Thetown to lookforTongacrafts,includingdecora- KaribaLake dam.So,Bingaisagoodplace resettling Tongapeopledisplacedbythe administrative centre, of withthepurpose It wasconstructed expressly asagovernment along thewestern sideof Kariba Lake isBinga. The mostinteresting andaccessibletown Binga rolling hills. posts, traditionalTongaculture andwild Reservations fornationalparkaccommo- Reservations The arrayof hotels andlodges isnolonger

725 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE biography of colonial Rhodesia’s mostcon- biography of colonial Rhodesia’s The Great Betrayal, &Politics History are available Zimbabwe. throughout photos. Thehardbackandpaperback versions venir plentyof bookcontaining awesome toric rock-artsites inZimbabwe. guideuncoveringis adetailed major prehis- Prehistoric of Zimbabwe, Art at Great Zimbabwe. andarchitecturepurpose of theancientruins Peter Garlake, attempts tosortoutthehistory, Great Zimbabwe &Explained, Described Books Guidebooks &Coffee-Table Africa region, see p24 . onbooksabouttheSouthern bwe. Fordetails coversThis section booksspecific toZimba- BOOKS a great roundof golfalmostanywhere. Kariba, onLake boating andhouseboating and River, onthelowerZambezi safaris canoeing riding andwildlife viewinginnationalparks, lands andChimanimaniNationalPark, horse ural features: High- hikinginthecoolEastern other activitiescentre aroundZimbabwe’snat- enjoy wildlife drives andhorse riding.Most 726 The Painted Caves –AnIntroduction tothe Beneath aZimbabwe Sun PRACTICALITIES

The government controls all TV and The government controlsallTV Oddlyenough,thelatest issuesof dailiesare The both onlysurviving The government’s relentless campaign in SouthernAfrica. boasts thebestcoverage ofworldsport lodges have satellite TV. Zimbabwe radio, thoughmosthotels andmany oftheUS-dollarcoverfraction price. stationsfora found atsomeservice Vanity Fair free politicalreporting. the week’sonlydoseofpropaganda- Friday’s state-run. be quite comical). can stay,newspapersandTV on ashort and blandpress (thoughforthevisitor has resulted inmuchself-censorship to controlallmedia–initiallybyforce ZIMBABWE DIRECTORY ••Books ZIMBABWE DIRECTORY and The Economist byIanSmith, istheauto- Independent isaclassysou- by Peter Garlake, canbe offers by Shops are generally openfrom8amto1pm BUSINESS HOURS Lonely Planet’stravel literature series. ans. Songsisoneof manytitlesinJourneys, into thelives of middle-classurbanZimbabwe- tural infoaboutrurallife, italsogives aninsight many years livingintheWest.Packed withcul- and of herreturn tothecountryafter spending Shand tells of herchildhood inZimbabwe, introduction toShona traditionsandculture. babwe, Sunset:Songs toanAfrican AStory of Zim- Lonely Planet some goodinsights. correspondent toget theboot,Meldrum has beautifully written, butasthelastforeign pendence Zimbabwe,upto2003.It’snot ofdrum, isagoodoverview post-Inde- the tragicwarthatledtoindependence. Chimurenga,a popularhistoryof theSecond War, ident tracinghiscontroversial topower. rise Smith, isabiographyof theZimbabweanpres- history. emotion-charged periodinZimbabwean troversial leaderchronicling atumultuous, is on the rise. Carjacking andsmash andgrabs Carjacking is ontherise. where nearassafe asitoncewas. Andcrime foreign mediamakes out,but norisitany- Zimbabwe isnowhere nearasdangerous as DANGERS &ANNOYANCES up to3Lof alcohol, including1Lof spirits. Travellers over 18years of age canalsoimport in nontradeitems, excludingpersonal effects. Visitors mayimportamaximumof US$250 CUSTOMS under 12years (forsafety reasons). accept children, manywon’ttake those though who caters forchildren. days Mostlodges these lodges andhotels andcantherefore determine organise theirtours agents, through booking kids. Inthecurrent climate mosttravellers will Zimbabwe isapretty goodplacetotravel with CHILDREN ing restaurants) isopenonSunday. 8am tonoononSaturday.Very little(includ- and 2pmto5pmMondayFriday,from Where WeHave Hope, forZimbabwe:The Struggle TheChimurenga Mugabe, byDavid Martin &Phyllis Johnson, is by Sekai NzenzaShand, isanexcellent bySekai byColinSimpsonandDavid by Andrew Mel- lonelyplanet.com Lord Byron,Paris 75008) 7 Bartholomew Cl,Greendale) 7 Bartholomew .harare.gc.ca; 45BainesAve) bwe.embassy.gov.au; St) 29Mazowe .org.zw; 42-44Harare St,AlexandraPark).org.zw; line.co.zw;) Hampshire Ave NW,Washington,DC20009) lichgasse 7,5300Bonn2) 2606) Canberra, ACT [email protected]; 11CulgoaCircuit,O’Malley, Lanark Rd,Belgravia) Strand, LondonWC2R0SA) and unwindwindowstoaminimumlevel. lock alldoors; lockallvaluablesintheboot; atnight; lights tions: avoid stoppingattraffic ity. Drivers should take thefollowingprecau- cry fromJohannesburg andothers, itisareal- of incidentsanddegree of violenceare afar are thecurrent dangers. thenumber Although lonelyplanet.com Malawi Malawi Kenya Italy Germany -zw.org; First Ave) BankBldg,74-76SamoraMachel France Finland Ethiopia Canada Botswana Third St) Ave5th fl,Tanganyika House,cnrKwameNkrumah & Belgium Australia Angola sions are in Harare. based commis- The followingembassiesandhigh inZimbabwe Embassies &Consulates USA UK Germany France Canada Australia also located inthefollowingcountries: Zimbabwean diplomaticmissionsaredetails). therelevant chapters (see forand Zambia Malawi, Mozambique,Namibia,SouthAfrica commissionsinBotswana, Zimbabwe hashigh Zimbabwean Embassies&Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES Ontario K2POJ9) Ontario [email protected]; 332SomersetStWest,Ottawa, .co.zw; 30Ceres.co.zw; Rd,Avondale) ( % ( ( % %

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Mp pp696-7 ; (Map 020-7836 7755;fax020-73791167;429The % Mp p694; (Map Mp pp696-7; (Map ( % ( ( % % 202-332 7100;fax202-4389326;1608New (Map (Map pp696-7 ; ( Mp p694; (Map 04-497200; [email protected]; 04-497200; [email protected]; % ( % (Map (Map p694 ; % % 01 56881600;fax09;12Rue 04-790070; Doncaster House; 26 Speke Ave)04-790070; DoncasterHouse;26Speke 613-237 4388;fax613-5638269;zim. 04-751654; [email protected];4DuthieAve) 04-725822; [email protected]; 14 04-725822; [email protected]; 04-700112; www.diplomatie.be/harare; 02-6286 2700;fax02-62901680; 0228-356071; fax0228-356309;Vil- ZIMBABWE DIRECTORY ••Embassies&Consulates ZIMBABWEDIRECTORY % % % % % 04-798584; emba@embamoc % 04-308655; germemb@earth 04-794645/7/8; 22PhillipsAve) 04-252181/2/3/4/5; www 04-703216; www.ambafrance 04-253661; www.zimba 04-253661; www.zimba Park, Harare) fax 778165;[email protected]; 35ColenbranderRd,Milton bassy.htm; 5LanarkRd,cnrSamNujomaSt,Belgravia) 70 Fife Ave) .co.zw; UjamaaHouse,23BainesAve).co.zw; & Samora Machel Ave)& SamoraMachel .gov.uk/zimb; 7thfl,CornerHouse,cnrLeopold Takawira St See See p698 formore information. www.hifa.co.zw) HeldannuallyinthelastweekofApril. of September. days overthelastweekofAugustandfirstfew days Herbert ChitepoAve)Herbert House, 48UnionAve) Boxing Day Boxing National Unity Day Defence Forces’Day Heroes’ Day Day Africa Day Workers’ Independence Day New Year’s Day closed. government are andotherbusinesses offices During thefollowingpublicholidays,most HOLIDAYS tact placesinZimbabwe, con- clubs andmeeting severe), yetlesbianismisnotillegal. penaltiesare(though invariably notnearlyas officially punishable byuptofive years injail activitiesfor menisillegaland Homosexual GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS Film FestivalZimbabwe International Bulawayo Music Festival International ofArts Harare EVENTS & FESTIVALS Zambia USA UK Tanzania Switzerland Sudan South Africa Russia Norway Namibia Mozambique Ave) Chitepo .state.gov/zimbabwe; AraxHouse,172Herbert 7ElcombeAve)mweb.co.zw; 4 Pascoe Ave, Belgravia) (Map (Map pp696-7 ; For informationaboutgayandlesbian (Map (Map pp696-7 ; Gays &LesbiansofZimbabwe Gays ( ( (Map (Map pp696-7 ; % % ( (Map (Map p694 ; % (Map (Map pp696-7 ; . 25 May 25 May 04-700111; www.sudaniharare.org.zw; 04-700111; www.sudaniharare.org.zw; 04-701957/8; [email protected]; 04-701957/8; [email protected]; 26December 11August ( Mp p694; (Map 04-252426; www.norway.org.zw/info/em 04-252426; www.norway.org.zw/info/em (Map (Map pp696-7 ; % 1 May 1 May 1January

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727 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE of thisguide. For exchange theinside frontcover rates see more informationonmoney inZimbabwe. parallel market). bank rate (currently aboutone-quarter of the conversion isdoneatthe more expensive you willultimately payinlocalcurrency, our be quoted inUSdollars where andforthose neighbouring SouthAfrica. often two tofourtimeswhattheywouldbein of productsthatmustbeimported, pricesare main reasonable. Butforagrowingamount sculptures beef, beer, andcrafts–pricesre- US$112.) National Park tocostUS$2.It’snow used the equivalentof US$20.Alodge inMatobo bank rate, mealwouldcostavisitor thesame US$5. Now,ifforcedtoconvert attheweak restaurant costtheequivalentof US$3to years agoamainatgood once was.Several (ZW$1 =100cents). The unitof currency istheZimbabwedollar MONEY Ave, Harare) the cities andnationalparksare available from ‘Tourist Maps’. More mapsof detailed the Hotels are thebestplacetofindanydecent MAPS and Shona. people prefer youstickingtoEnglish. and isn’toverly ladenwithniceties,somost sion of Ndebele,English,Shona andAfrikaans, dialect, Chilapalapa,isactuallyapidginver- or Ndebele(inthecentre andwest).Another ans speakShona (mainlyinthenorthandeast) about 2%of thepopulation.MostZimbabwe- butisthefirstproceedings, language foronly ingovernment,It’s used legalandbusiness languageThe official of ZimbabweisEnglish. LANGUAGE get connected. itcantake youthatlongto per hour,though and towns.Internet accessisUS$1toUS$3 There are internet centres inallthemaincities ACCESS INTERNET 728 See theboxedSee texts, p684 and p686 for Therefore, mostpricesinthisbookwill For those goodsthatareFor those locallymade– Zimbabwe isnowhere nearascheap asit See p778 and p779 inNdebele forphrases Surveyor General Surveyor ZIMBABWE DIRECTORY ••InternetAccess ZIMBABWE DIRECTORY .

(Map (Map pp696-7 ; SamoraMachel dela Ave) camera orflashcardanddownloadprint. processing, andyoucantake inyour digital films andaccessories,offers one-hourphoto allsortsof Itsells your photographicneeds. increasingly more inothertowns. difficult accessories are easytobuyinHarare though Print andslidefilmbasicphotographic PHOTOGRAPHY &VIDEO Zimbabwe dollars atmostmajor banks. dollars orUKpoundscanbeexchanged for All major brandsof travellers cheques inUS Cheques Travellers caps, pensandelectronicitems. change forclothes(especiallydesignerbrands), and vendors youthingsinex- willhappily‘sell’ prices atmarkets andstreet are stalls negotiable, anytipishugelythough appreciated. Most charge tothebill;ifso,notipisrequired, service Some restaurants automaticallyadda10% Tipping will get thelowestbankrate. on theamountthatcanbewithdrawnandyou logo. ButATMs have strict–andsmalllimits take MasterCard andanycardwithaCirrus Chartered andStandard accept Visa, Bank speaking,ATMsGenerally Bank atBarclays ATMs Bulawayo, VictoriaFalls, Kariba, Masvingo and info. There are PublicityAssociations inHarare, Harare; % The Offices Local Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION from withinZimbabweis for area codes.Theinternational accesscode for Zimbabweis phones oninternational roaming. card inZimbabwe. It’sbesttoputmobile hotel orlodge. Itisimpossibletobuyasim You canmake international callsfromyour TELEPHONE US$1.10 totherest of theworld. to EuropeandtheUKcostsUS$0.80, letters andpostcardsbysurfacemail Sending POST Strachan’s Photo Shop Strachan’s Photo If callingfromoverseas, thecountrycode 758730; www.zimbabwetourism.co.zw; 55 Samora Machel, 55 SamoraMachel, 758730; www.zimbabwetourism.co.zw; Zimbabwe Tourism Authority Zimbabwe Tourism h isthebestplaceinZimbabweforall 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) % 263, butdroptheinitial0

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; 66NelsonMan- Mp pp696-7; (Map Hauptwache, 60313 Frankfurt amMain) Hauptwache, 60313Frankfurt btclick.com; 429TheStrand,LondonWC2R0SA) btclick.com; Tourist Offices Abroad Offices Tourist ers have littlemore tooffer thanasmile. have info,brochures useful andadvice,butoth- Nyanga. Someare helpfuland very efficient, lonelyplanet.com from overseas, see p752 . Africa from elsewhere inthecontinent, and Information abouttravelling toSouthern THERE&AWAY GETTING ZIMBABWE IN TRANSPORT day, thatit’sbesttoget thatoneinadvance. the queuesatSouthAfricanEmbassy each suchtheory SouthAfricaiseasytoo,though are there theminadvance. toobtain In noneed countriesformostvisitors,arrival inthose so Africa andBotswanaare on easytoobtain and twopassport-sizedphotos. but nearlyallrequire afee (mostinUSdollars) change, constantly Requirements p695). (see forregionalAfrica topickupvisas countries Harare isoneof thebestplacesinSouthern forOnwardTravel Visas ern Africaandcarryacertificate toprove it. of reasons, get ajab before youcometoSouth- toaninfectedbeen area. forallsorts However, for entrytoZimbabwe unlessyouhave recently www.safemigrationzimbabwe.com. requirements andotherimmigrationnewsis entry. Agoodwebsite forchecking changes in British citizenspayUS$55/70forsingle/double Zimbabwean diplomatic missions(see p727 ). months) costUS$55,butare onlyissuedat (validforsix arrival) andmultiple-entryvisas costUS$30/45(andcanbeissued upon visas at yourpointof entry.Single-/double-entry nationals of allcountries.Theycanbeobtained With afew are exceptions,visas required by VISAS USA UK South Africa Germany New York10022) nance House,OppenheimerRd,BrumaPark, Johannesburg) Visas for Zambia, Namibia,Malawi, South forZambia, Visas Vaccination foryellowfever is notrequired ( ( % % 020-7240 6169;fax72405465;zta.london@ 212-486 3444;fax4863888;128East56St, ( % ( % 069-920 7730;fax9207731;Ander 011-331 3137;fax6168692;2ndfl,Fi- TRANSPORT IN ZIMBABWE •• Getting There &Away INZIMBABWE••Getting TRANSPORT Centre) bus from Mutare totheborder, thencatch via Mutare. TakeYou can go toBeira amini- MOZAMBIQUE dayfrom6.30am. (US$35) every travelling MozambiquetoMalawi. through forMozambique if atransitvisa You’ll need Zimbabwe isviaMozambique’sTete Corridor. The most direct Malawi route between and MALAWI dayat6pm. every Tuesday, Thursday andFriday;PCJdeparts Harare toFrancistown.Zupcodeparts6.30am Zupco ($15)andPCJCoaches ($60)runfrom BOTSWANA (Mozambique). andMutare andNyamapanda(Zambia); zungula (Botswana);Kariba andChirundu Its otherborderpostsare Plumtree andKa- Victoria Falls open6amto10pm). (toZambia, bridge (toSouthAfrica,open24hours) and from 6amto6pmwiththeexceptionof Beit- Most of Zimbabwe’s border postsare open Border Crossings to Harare. Singapore Airlinesnolonger offer aroute Zimbabwe. and Qantas airlines thatservice There areduction hasbeen inthenumberof Airways South African Air Zimbabwe Air Tanzania Air Malawi Air Namibia Air Botswana (US$1070/1274, 3½hours). (US$1154/1888, 2½hours) andNairobi (US$729/956 50minutes), DaresSalaam Lilongwe (US$999/1112,onehour),Lusaka hours), Maputo (US$468/767,1½hours), (US$716/962,2½hours), Windhoek 1½ hours), Gaborone(US$572/906,1½ nesburg (oneway/return US$227/339, linkZimbabwetoJohan- national flights Victoria Falls andJohannesburg. Inter- and there are alsodirect between flights arriveMost international flights inHarare, Air % Zupco runsfromHarare toBlantyre Airlines with services to/fromZimbabwe: Airlines withservices 04-794511/2/6/47/83) ( Mp pp696-7; (Map % ( Mp pp696-7; (Map % Mp pp696-7; (Map 04-752563). 04-752537/8) Mp pp696-7; (Map % % % 04-732094/5) 04-793195/228/229) 04-253752; Eastgate

729 ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE ZIMBABWE Musika BusTerminal,Musika Harare) tween Karibatween atthe eastern endof the lake and Kariba) Ferries Kariba Boat able toorganise charter flights. flies toHwange orKariba, butagents willbe parture of tax US$5.AirZimbabwenolonger 375 oneway/return). There’s adomesticde- return) andHarare andVictoria Falls (US$230/ Harare and Bulawayo(US$140/250oneway/ Centre, Harare) Zimbabwe Air Air AROUND GETTING day(US$25). Chirundu) at6.30amevery Harare) Zupco ZAMBIA each way. This tripisathree-day, journey two-night travelling ZimbabweviaBulawayo. through ates itstrain fromPretoria toVictoriaFalls Zimbabwe andSouthAfrica. oper- Rovos Rail notice. It’sbesttocallahead. Departure timesare subjecttochange without Terminal, Harare) Greyhound BusTerminal,Musika Harare) Pioneer Bus Kurerwa Kukura Blue Arrow currency inZimbabwe). ifbought Johannesburg (aroundUS$70,payableinlocal to The followingcompanieshave services SOUTH AFRICA then connectfromBotswana. forward route istotake theBotswanabusand Zimbabwe andNamibia. Themoststraight- There’s nodirect overland connectionbetween NAMIBIA the borderwithMalawi. more frequently Tete between andZóbuèon Nyamapanda andTete (Mozambique)and runinfrequentlyibus. Minibuses between can get toMalawi fromNyamapandabymin- another busontheMozambiqueside. You 730 africaonline.co.zw; Chester House, Speke Ave, ChesterHouse,Speke africaonline.co.zw; Harare) Trains are onceagainrunningbetween

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Mp p704 ; (Map Mp pp696-7; (Map (Map (Map p694 ; % % 04-704933; Road Port Terminal,04-704933; RoadPort % % % % 04-795863, 790531;Mbare 04-729514; barrow@ 04-65476; AndoraHarbour, % 04-720801; Road Port 04-720801; RoadPort 04-669973/6; Mbare 04-253751; Eastgate about 65years. and 25years. Themaximumage isnormally 23 companies varies,butisusuallybetween The minimum drivingage required byrental HIRE around US$1. ally determines theblackmarket rate, sois with mostcountries.Thecostof petrolusu- itisnowsimplyinline the lastyear,though mixed withethanol–hasgoneup500%in Petrol it’s –which iscalled‘blend’because FUEL &SPARE PARTS also have anInternational Driver’s Licence. police toillicitbribes,it’sbestensure you givenHowever, thegrowingpropensityof Zimbabwe aslongit’swritten inEnglish. from theirhomecountryforupto90daysin All foreigners theirdrivinglicence canuse DRIVING LICENCE & Motorcyle Car and mostpeoplewaithours foraride. daystheyareThese fullinabout twoseconds township markets outsidethecentre of atown. normallydepartwhenfullfrom Local buses (anddependingonfuel). published timetables local. Theexpress operate accordingto buses There are twotypesof express localbuses: and Bus when there demand. issufficient Mlibizi atthewestern end.Theferry departs seat passengers, Zimbabwean butalmostevery seat beltsmustbe worn bydrivers andfront- Seat ROAD RULES problem. incitiesdrink drivingisahugegood, though major townsafter dark.Roadsremain pretty locals make aruleof notdriving outsidethe Zimbabwe hassomeawfuldrivers andmany ROAD HAZARDS Pools NationalPark. roads innationalparks,especiallyMana not cover 2WDvehicles travelling onrough damage waiver (CDW)insurancepoliciesdo mileage). for 2WDandUS$2164WD(unlimited Europcar cies are Two of themore reliable car-rental agen- It’s important tonoteIt’s important thatmostcollision

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( % 04-706254; [email protected]) . Per dayit’sUS$147 lonelyplanet.com and any tourandlodgearoundthecountry. ground fl,TravelCentre, 93-5JasonMoyoAve) Canbook % left-hand sideof theroad. safety reasons. Driving(intheory)isonthe andmotorbikesafter sunset are bannedfor private carsreserves are notallowedtodrive ignores thislaw.Inmostnationalparksand lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditionsonoursite foralongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyou useitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake Village, QuornAve, Harare) Thesetwolodges–both % Lodges Pamushana &NdunaSafari &Travel Msuna Safaris ance of operator. atourand/orsafari todaywiththeassist- Zimbabwe isbestseen Tours starting. meters, sobesure tocheck thepricebefore direct yourhotel. orthrough There are no by travellers. way beyondcapacityandare nolonger used are andminibuses Buses alwayspacked to Local Transport babwe, forissuesof safety andpracticality. Hitching isnolonger recommended inZim- Hitching Taxis are largely safe, andcanbebooked 04-705716; fax 704792; [email protected]; 04-705716; fax704792;[email protected]; 04-369523; www.pamushana.com; Shop37,Arundel TRANSPORT IN ZIMBABWE •• Getting Around INZIMBABWE••Getting TRANSPORT Mp pp696-7; (Map (Map p694 ; p694; (Map lawayo like entertainment and activities ontap. andactivities entertainment like forgroupsand/orthosewho tions ofZimbabwe.Perfect as wellbushretreats andlodgesin themaindestina- Bookslarger2-to4-starfamily-stylehotels .zimsun.com) 735681; 99JasonMoyoAvenue, Causeway,Harare; www and TomCruise. Zeta-Jones, Douglas guests includeCatherine Michael lodgesintheworld.Recent of themoststunningsafari cheaper.Nduna iscertainly Pamushana issimplyone Neitherarein SouthernAfrica. budgetlodges,though safaris vate trustthatrunsoneofthemosteco-friendly ofapri- –are part Wildlife Reserve based inMalilangwe centre. 020-62825; tact the traintravel.long distance local operators first astothecurrent safety of ments withbeddingare available. Checkwith travel compart- andsleeping atnight, services accidentscontinuetooccur.serious Allmajor andparts, ofin desperate need servicing are very slow,andthetrackstrainsare Bulawayo, Mutare andVictoriaFalls. Trains Zimbabwe’s railwaynetworkconnectsHarare, Train Group Zimsun Leisure If consideringthisformof transport, con- 09-322210; Victoria Falls National Railways ofZimbabwe National Railways Harare 013-44391) 04-78604416,78604519; (Map (Map pp696-7 ; © LonelyPlanetPublications in theappropriate % 737944;

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