© Lonely Planet Publications 680 lonelyplanet.com ZIMBABWE •• Highlights 681 0 200 km Z i m b a b w e ZIMBABWE 0 120 miles M O Z A M B I Q U E Z A M B I A LUSAKA a Bassa Dam i River Cahor bez Kafue m ὈὈZa Luangwa Mana Pools Chirundu NP Zimbabwe continues to make headlines for all the wrong reasons. In 2005 the Government Siavonga e g Muzerabani n stole another election, the opposition imploded, and half a million of the poorest people Kariba a Mount R Darwin Karoi i w were evicted in the midst of winter. Unemployment is at 70%, inflation has topped 1000%, Lake Matusadona r u Mvurwi Kariba NP v Nyamapanda and women die younger in Zimbabwe than anywhere else on the planet. M Sengwa Chinhoyi Caves Bindura Zambezi ὈὈὈ NP Chinhoyi Shamva Siabuwa NP Zambezi River Mutoko But behind the grim data lies one of Southern Africa’s most beautiful – and today, un- Binga Domboshawa Kasane Chizarira Umfuli Lake Ewanrigg Livingstone RP Mlibizi Manjolo NP Chivero NP touristed – countries. And despite being forced to sacrifice so many things, Zimbabweans HARARE Nyanga Victoria Batoka Chitungwiza Falls Gorge NP Nyangani have not lost their humour or resolve. With so few visiting the country, those who do can Gokwe Chegutu Hwange Lake Chivero Nyanga (2592m) Gwaai Kadoma RP Marondera expect royal treatment. They need you. Kazungula Pandamatenga River Sh an Rusape Dete gani Mtazari ὈὈὈὈὈRiver ὈὈὈFalls NP Lupane Kwe Kwe While the world’s media focuses on the fall of Zimbabwe, visitors will see a very different Chivhu Mutare G Hwange w image of the country. From the absolute wilderness of Mana Pools National Park, the ruins a Highlands NP a Bvumba i Mvuma Botanic Daisyfield Gweru Gardens of Great Zimbabwe and the mountains looking over Mozambique, to fine dining in the Siding C & Reserve r Shurugwi Eastern eek Shangani Wengezi capital, Zimbabwe continues to be a great place to visit. Chimanimani Bulawayo Runde Masvingo Birchenough Nalatale Bridge Chimanimani Nata Ruins Khami (Kame) Tshabalala Lake Mutirikwe NP Zimbabwe is no longer nearly as cheap as it once was, but its richness in culture and Ruins ὈὈὈGS ὈZvishavane ὈὈChipinge River colour remain. Colonialism remains etched in all sorts of ways, but local traditions are vis- Ramokgwebana Plumtree Mutirikwe (Kyle) Matobo Great RP Mt Selinda ible. If you’re willing to join a tour group, or pay and plan your own trip, then a country of B O T S W A N A NP Zimbabwe Gwanda National River Save Monument Chirinda Forest charm, political intrigue and magnificent wilderness awaits. Oh, and Zimbabwe’s got one of Botanical Orapa Francistown Chiredzi Rutenga Reserve the world’s best climates…even the worst government can’t destroy that. Sav Shashe Bubi e er Riv River Gonarezhou NP ὈὈὈRiver Thuli Selebi-Phikwe Beitbridge M O Z A M B I Q U E LEGEND Limpopo River GS Game Sanctuary NP National Park River S O U T H RP Recreational Park Limpopo A F R I C A FAST FACTS ὈὈὈὈ Area: 390,580 sq km (slightly larger than HIGHLIGHTS babwe’s largest and most wildlife-packed Germany) Mana Pools ( p705 ) Africa’s only national park. Capital: Harare park (with lions) that allows unguided Country code: %260 walking safaris. Canoe the Zambezi past ITINERARIES hippos and crocs. One to two weeks It’s best to base yourself Famous for: Great Zimbabwe, Hwange Great Zimbabwe ( p716 ) Visit this ancient in one or two places – eg Harare ( p692 ); National Park, Zambezi River canoe safaris, city with Africa’s largest stone structures Masvingo ( p715 ), from where you can visit Victoria Falls south of the pyramids. Great Zimbabwe ( p716 ); Bulawayo ( p718 ), Languages: English, Shona, Ndebele Harare ( p692 ) Go to Harare’s Interna- from where you can access Matobo National Park Mutare Money: Zimbabwe dollar (ZW$) tional Festival of the Arts in April or play ( p722 ); or ( p707 ), good for vis- golf on a world-class course any time. iting the Eastern Highlands ( p706 ). Make sure ZIMBABWE Phrases: Siyabonga kakulu (thank you; Nde- Eastern Highlands ( p706 ) Fish, safari on you also visit Victoria Falls (see p626 ). bele); ndatenda/masvita (thank you; Shona) horseback, win millions (read: US$5) at Three weeks Spend longer at (and around) Population: 13 million (official, though up the casino, or climb Zimbabwe’s second- the places mentioned in the one- to two- ZIMBABWE to three million Zimbabweans are thought highest peak. week itinerary, and add in Gweru ( p714 ), to have emigrated since 2001) Off the beaten track ( p723 ) Observe the Kariba ( p703 ) and Hwange ( p723 ), Nyanga Big Five in Hwange National Park, Zim- ( p710 ) or Mana Pools ( p705 ) National Parks. 682 ZIMBABWE •• Climate & When to Go lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ZIMBABWE •• History 683 to April. Zimbabwe has the second-highest HOW MUCH? incidence of lightening strikes in the world, SHOULD YOU GO? Soapstone sculpture US$2-200 so do be careful during those storms. If your only doubts about holidaying to Zimbabwe concern your dollars going to government Generally, the dry winter months are the cronies, then pack away your worries and get out your passport. This is a debate for international Safari US$50-350 most comfortable for travelling, though in donors, and if they still see a role in Zimbabwe (and they do), then you shouldn’t worry. Yes, Wooden carving US$1-100 truth Zimbabwe has a beautiful climate all the government has a stake in some hotels and the national airline, but more than that there Steak US$7 year round, and given the chance of drought, are thousands of talented sculptors, guides, small businesses, waiters and artists who are all on the bread line because tourism has all but dried up in Zimbabwe. They need you in Zimbabwe, Sunscreen US$7 even the wettest wet season isn’t a great hin- drance. In winter night-time temperatures both for your business, your tips, but also so that the country and its people continue to get an LONELY PLANET INDEX can fall below freezing, while in summer outsider’s perspective. There could be nothing worse for everyday Zimbabweans than a boycott daytime temperatures can climb to 35°C, from tourists. 1L of petrol US$1 but may be tempered by afternoon thunder- 1L of bottled water US$0.75 storms. Winter is the best time for wildlife viewing traders who had been plying the Mozambique on Matabeleland. Lobengula’s kraals (hut Bottle of beer US$1 because animals tend to congregate around a coast for over four centuries. They traded gold villages) were destroyed and Bulawayo was Souvenir T-shirt US$3 diminishing number of water holes, and are and ivory for glass, porcelain and cloth from burned. A peace offering of gold sent by Plate of chips US$0.80 therefore easier to glimpse. At the end of a Asia, and Great Zimbabwe became wealthy Lobengula to the BSAC was commandeered drought in 2005, herds of 300 elephants were and powerful. However, by the 15th century, by company employees. Ignorant of this gold seen at Hwange National Park. Obviously its influence was in decline because of over- token, the vengeful British sent the Shangani Alternatively, try a semicircular route: ie this is an incredible sight, though it can also population, overgrazing, political fragmenta- River Patrol to track down the missing king Victoria Falls, Hwange National Park, be a stressful one, as many animals don’t gain tion and uprisings. and finish him off. In the end, Lobengula died Bulawayo, Gweru, Masvingo, Mutare, access to the scarce water and die. During Great Zimbabwe’s twilight period, in exile of smallpox. the Eastern Highlands, Harare, Kariba No matter when you choose to come, you Shona dynasties fractured into autonomous Without their king, the Ndebele contin- and Mana Pools National Park. will have so much of the country to yourself. states. In the 16th century Portuguese trad- ued to resist the BSAC and foreign rule. In One month You can take your time with Tourism is a fraction of what it was just five ers arrived in search of riches and golden the early 1890s they allied themselves with one month up your sleeve. One excellent years ago. This is awful news for Zimbab- cities in the vast empire of Mwene Mutapa the Shona, and guerrilla warfare broke out route is to fly from Johannesburg to Vic- weans, though does mean that those who do (Monomatapa to the Europeans), where they against the BSAC in the Matobo Hills. When toria Falls (see p626 ), spend a few days come to Zimbabwe will have a choice of the hoped to find King Solomon’s mines and the Rhodes suggested a negotiated settlement, there, then be driven to Hwange National full range of remaining lodges and activities, mysterious land of Ophir. the Ndebele, with their depleted numbers, Park ( p723 ) for a stunning safari. You and will be spoiled by their hosts. Alliances between Shona states led to the couldn’t refuse. could then fly to Harare ( p692 ) and take a creation of the Rozwi state, which encom- Meanwhile, finding little gold, the colon- road trip to the Bvumba Mountains ( p708 ) HISTORY passed over half of present-day Zimbabwe. ists appropriated farmlands on the Mashona- overlooking Mozambique. Another would The precolonial history of the area that be- This state continued until 1834 when raiders land plateau. By 1895 the new country was be to land in Harare, take a charter flight came Zimbabwe, along with the rest of South- known as the Ndebele (Those Who Carry being called Rhodesia, after its heavy-handed to Lake Kariba ( p703 ) or Mana Pools ( p705 ) ern Africa, is covered on p37 .