VOLUME 9 NO. 15 NOVEMBER 26 – DECEMBER 9, 2020 SUBMIT STORIES TO: [email protected] STRIPESKOREA.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE SUBMIT A PHOTO FOR THE COVER OF with Friends un F n Cheongdo i PAGE 8

GotGot a grgreateat shshotot ooff mainland Japan, Okinawa, Korea or Guam? If so, submit it and maybe it’ll end up on the front page of :HOFRPHWRWKH3DFLÀF Photo deadline: Jan. 15

Facebook.com/StripesPacific stripeskorea.com

    LETTERS FROM THE HEART PAGES 4-5

Dear 2 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 LEADERSHIP IN ACTION IMCOM-P NCO of the Year embodies excellence

STORY AND PHOTO BY SPC. MATTHEW MARCELLUS, will get it with work.” Max D. Lederer Jr. USAG HUMPHREYS Publisher “I define Wamble uses the experiences and success Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic leadership as at these competitions as a means to augment Commander CAMP HUMPHREYS – The unbreakable being brave and enhance his leadership qualities, demon- Chris Verigan spirit of strong and effective leadership de- Engagement Director enough to strating to his soldiers the value of dedication fines the role of an Army leader, is a vital as- and determination. Marie Woods pect of the Army’s success and provides for want more, Publishing and Media Design Director but also being “Last year I was a little disappointed know- Chris Carlson soldiers to reach their warfighting potential ing that I didn’t even come close, so this year Publishing and Media Design Manager disciplined in an ever-changing world. it was rewarding to win and show my soldiers Eric Lee enough to Advertising and Circulation Manager For Sgt. Brennan M. Wamble, a native of that it is possible,” said Wamble, noting his Enrique “Rick” W. Villanueva Jr. Chicago and an air traffic control operator work for it.” previous unsuccessful competition perfor- Korea Area Manager assigned to Headquarters and Headquarters – Sgt. Brennan M. Wamble mance. “A lot of people would give up, saying Jinsun Song Operations Manager Company, United States Army Garrison – ‘I didn’t win last time, so why would I do it Humphreys, the value of his leadership was Kentaro Shimura years’ events, in response to the COVID-19 this time?’ But, I tried again and made it.” Production Manager on full display after he won the HHC Soldier pandemic, demonstrating the Army’s contin- Embracing his position as a role model, Rie Miyoshi of the Quarter, HHC NCO of the Quarter and Engagement Manager ued commitment to the health and safety of Wamble uses a direct form of leadership that ultimately the U.S. Army Installation Man- Denisse Rauda its soldiers and communities. demonstrates to his soldiers the importance Publishing and Media Design Editor agement Command – Pacific NCO of the Year “Because the competition was a lot more of the tactical and technical skills, which are Publishing and Media Design Writers competitions in 2020. essential to success as a soldier. ChiHon Kim virtual, people had a lot more time and op- Shoji Kudaka “I define leadership as being brave enough “I try to lead by example, my soldiers see portunity to compete,” said Wamble. “We Takahiro Takiguchi to want more, but also being disciplined my work every day and I make sure that I am Layout Designers got everything way ahead of time. I tried to enough to work for it,” said Wamble, reflect- trying my best because I’m a role model to Mamoru Inoue make myself look extremely good on Yukiyo Oda ing upon the pressure that Army leaders of- them,” said Wamble. “They look at me and Yuko Okazaki by showing all of my awards and accomplish- Kayoko Shimoda ten handle. “I think everyone should strive to say ‘Sgt. Wamble works hard, if he does that ments while scoring a 300 on the Army Phys- Multimedia Consultants be that way. You have to be brave enough to then why shouldn’t I do that?’” Max Genao Doug Johnson ical Fitness Test. I strove to be the best at Brian Jones Jason Lee even want to do these competitions, because Mentoring junior soldiers is an important Hans Simpson Chae Pang Yi they are hard, but it is fulfilling when you’re each category that the competition offered.” part of being an NCO, ensuring that soldiers Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman disciplined enough to work for it.” Finding a sense of inspiration and drive in Graphic Designers maintain a strong sense of readiness, lethality Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji The IMCOM-P NCO of the Year competi- his mental toughness and resiliency, Wamble and proficiency at their tasks and specialties. Sales Support tion determines the top NCO from across the applied an important personal mantra which “The most important part of mentoring Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro command’s garrisons in the Pacific region, in- guides him to success as a leader. another soldier for me, is being able to do the Yusuke Sato Saori Tamanaha cluding installations across South Korea, Ja- “I tell myself ‘a strong body will carry a Toshie Yoshimizu Un Chong Yu job right and being able to motivate,” said pan, Hawaii, Kwajalein and Alaska, through weak mind nowhere, but a strong mind will Wamble. “When it comes to balancing sol- For feedback and inquiries, a rigorous competition designed to stress the carry a weak body anywhere,’” said Wamble, dier training with ATC training, we have an contact [email protected] competitors’ soldier skills and Army knowl- emphasizing the importance of this belief. intense training program. As a leader, I can To place an ad, call DSN 755-2255 edge. This year’s competition was held in “You have to visualize winning and accom- impact my soldiers’ ability to be powerful stripeskorea.com/contact a much more virtual format than previous plishing something first, then later on you and lethal by leading by example.” NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 3

2020 ADMISSIONS FALL VIRTUAL OPEN HOUSE

KOREA INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Pangyo Campus

High School Middle School Elementary School Tuesday, Nov 17 Wednesday, Nov 18 Thursday, Nov 19 10 AM. Via ZOOM 10 AM. Via ZOOM 10 AM. Via ZOOM

Seoul Campus Contact Info

Pangyo Campus Seoul Campus 031-789-0505 02-3496-0510 www.kis.or.kr www.kisseoul.org

RSVP is required. Please visit our website for more information. Elementary School Monday, Nov 30 10 AM. Via ZOOM 4 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020

Dear.....     Letters fromf the heart Editor’s Note: These students from Humphreys Middle School know they have a lot to be thankful for, so they took some time to write to those who play such a big part in their lives. Thanks for sharing with us, guys!

Dear Mom, thankful that you help me clean my room and let me have there is no way I’ll ever be able to repay all the things you’ve made a big impact on my life even though I am still young. I want to thank you for everything you do. You do so much sleepovers with my friends. I’m thankful for the way you done for me. You guys have always been at my side no Mama and Papa you have smothered me in your love, I love for so many people, including me. I appreciate when you treat me with care and love. matter what has ever happened and I’ll be at your side too. you both a lot and appreciate your effort and love bringing make dinner almost every single night. It almost always 'DG\RXDUHWKRXJKWIXOEUDYHDQGVHOҖHVV

Dear Mom and Dad, moving forward. have the right to vote, nor have the freedom of the press. I really want to thank you for creating the Rubik’s Cube. I I was going to make an essay on this topic but I later Gratitude helps with relationships to keep us healthy. This In conclusion, thank you for giving me a good life, a good hope you have a good day, Mr. Rubik! thought that I should show my gratitude towards you guys is because the people that you hang out with or spend time VFKRROLQJIRUҕJKWLQJLQWKH9LHWQDPZDUDQGKHOSLQJP\ Sincerely, in a letter. Some of this may sound cheesy but I can assure with make you feel appreciated and encourage you to stay mom and her sisters escape to a boat to freedom. Julian Cho, 6th grade you that these words are my meaningful way to show that together. And most of all, the relationships will always Sincerely, you have done more than impact my life. manage to maintain health and help you be thankful for all Aaron, 6th Grade Dear Mom and Dad, You have given me life, an amazing and free life. The the good things that are happening in the present, no matter I know you have been hard on me sometimes but that amount of effort that you put in to give your children this life how big or small those might be. Dear Mrs. Gioia, is how I know you care and love me. You are harsh LVPRUHWKDQDQ\RWKHU7KURXJKDOORIRXUFRQҖLFW,NQRZ You can make gratitude a part of your daily life. All you Now that I’m in 6th grade I realize how hard it actually is. because you want me to know and see what is going to that you love and care about me so very much. Even though need to do is to do most of these simple things. You can Thanks to you though it has been so much easier. In 5th happen to me in the future. I think you are mad at me you both work hard and long jobs, you still have enough keep a gratitude journal, you can tell someone that they are grade, I was worried about 6th grade and what it was going but really, you are just teaching me. I love you so much time for my activities; Like my projects or posters. Even special and you appreciate them, you can smile more often to be like. I have used some of the skills you taught us to Mom and Dad. when you can’t make it to some of these activities, I know out in public, you can do random acts of kindness, don’t make it 10 times easier this year. Two things that you taught Love, that I wouldn’t even be able to do them if it wasn’t for your judge others, pay attention to the present and not the future, us that I really use in 6th grade are time management and Alessandra Mae Mercurio Balibalos, 6th grade guidance in the past. Not one of my birthdays have gone by and you can meditate. Those are only some of the things getting stuff turned in on time. These two skills are super without an abundance of fun. Not one christmas has gone that you can use gratitude for in your daily life. important and have helped me in all my classes including Dear Masashi Kishimoto, by without decorations or presents. Not one Thanksgiving What I am grateful for is my family, food, water, and the your science class. Thank you for preparing me. I would like to thank you for making my favorite Anime, has gone by without a meal and grateful relatives. roof above my head. Without any of these things/items I Sincerely, Naruto. I’m very grateful for that! By making Naruto, you 7RHQGWKLV,ZRXOGOLNHWRVSHFLҕFDOO\DFNQRZOHGJH\RX don’t think I would be alive. But thanks to my parents for Dylan Layman, 6th grade have given me a way to make new friends. This is because Mom. You are the most beautiful and hardworking mother bringing me life; their lives have changed because of me. I when I was little, I did not have many friends or know how to in the world. You do so much work even when it isn’t needed. appreciate everything they do for me and so should you. 'HDU'RFWRUV:RUNLQJZLWK&29,'3DWLHQWV make friends. When I saw that Naruto had no friends I Like when you willingly applied for a job at the HCES. You Sincerely, I am so grateful for you! You are risking your lives to save sad, but when he made friends I thought I could make some didn’t have to but you did because you wanted to help other Kaylee Putman, 8th Grade other people. Most people wouldn’t do that. You are heroes WRR%HFDXVHDORWRISHRSOHOLNH$QLPH,ҕQGIULHQGVQRZ staff members and students. You are amazing parents. to me. You let the world know that there is hope and that we much easier. Your creation also makes me happy because Your son, Eshan Khan, 6th Grade Dear Kevin Do, FDQҕJKWWKLVYLUXV:KHQ,KHDURQWKHQHZVDERXWGRFWRUV when I am sad or have had a long day I can sit back and 7KDQN\RXIRUҕJKWLQJLQWKH9LHWQDPZDU7KDQN\RX KHOSLQJSDWLHQWVZLWK&29,'LWPDNHVPHVPLOHEHFDXVH, watch Naruto (Although it did make me cry a couple of Dear Mom, IRUҖ\LQJDQGҕJKWLQJLQWKHSODQHVKLJKLQWKHDLU7KDQN know you guys are there. A lot of people have given up in the times). I am thankful that you brought me into this world and that you for swimming with my mom on your back, to get on a world, but you doctors must stay positive and keep moving There are some Questions I would like to ask if I met you. 1. you show me love. I am also thankful that you care about boat to freedom, because if you didn’t my mom never would forward. This means the world to me. I will never forget how Obviously I would ask for an autograph 2. What happened my education. You have taught me how to read, write, talk, have met my dad. Thank you for taking care of my mom, her many people were saved during this time. You’re the reason to guy in Boruto? 3. Why did you kill Jiraiya and and prepared me for school which helps me right now and it sisters, my sister, and me. so many people are surviving. Keep doing what you’re doing Obito? I felt like Obito and Naruto would have been great will help me in the future. You have helped me in quarantine If you didn’t, I would have a different future. It would be because you’re the reason I still have hope! friends and I really wanted Jiraiya to see Naruto become because of the pandemic that is currently going on right different, because I wouldn’t get as good of a schooling, Thank you for everything, Hokage 4. And if you get the chance could you do a spin now. This is why I am thankful that you are my mother. have as good of a life, I wouldn’t have many second Aubree Carter , 6 grade off series with One piece? Sincerely, chances, and I wouldn’t have as good parents. I wouldn’t live Sincerely, Samiyah Murphy, 6th grade in a good country system. If you didn’t, I would have different 'HDU(UQɆ5XELN Austin Hanson, 6th grade cousins, or none at all. Hello Mr. Rubik! I hope you are doing well. I’m writing Dear Lewis Pugh, If I didn’t get a good education, I would have less job this letter to you because I want to thank you so much for Dear Doctors and Nurses, This might be a little weird writing a letter to you since opportunities. I wouldn’t get high paying jobs. I wouldn’t have creating the Rubik’s Cube! I absolutely love solving the ,DPZULWLQJWKLVOHWWHUWR\RXWRWKDQN\RX&RYLGKDV most of the time we call but I need to tell you why gratitude as good of a life because I would have less money to pay Rubik’s Cube. It is a really fun hobby, and it also relieves been a big turning point in history, and you have been a big matters. Gratitude helps people feel more positive emotions, IRUVWXIIQRUSUREDEO\KDYHHOHFWULFLW\3OXVDOOWKHҖRRGLQJ stress for me! Cubing has helped me make awesome part of it. You have been taking care of people and saving good experiences, improve their health, deal with adversity, DQGWKHW\SKRRQҖRRGHGDQGGHVWUR\HGKRXVHVDQGODQG, friends, and has also given me something that I am truly lives throughout this tough time. One day kids are going to and build strong relationships.Gratitude also has been wouldn’t have many second chances, because I would get passionate about. It is the only hobby in my life that I have OHDUQDERXW&RYLGDQG\RXDUHJRLQJWREHDELJSDUWRI linked to better physical health, as well as better sleep and disciplined differently(where if you do something bad people not abandoned after a while. Learning how to solve the that story because you are risking your lives every day to reduces stress levels. You can live a much better life when would automatically punsined you). 5XELN¥V&XEHZDVUHDOO\GLIҕFXOWZLWKDOORIWKHGLIIHUHQW save people. I want to be a doctor when I grow up and to be you’re grateful because as you improve your relationship to I wouldn’t have as good parents, because my parents are methods and hundreds of algorithms. But unlike some just like you. I want to help people and take care of them. the world, you feel better within your body. Gratitude shows the easiest going people. Plus, they take me and Sammy RWKHUGLIҕFXOWWKLQJV,GLGQ¥WJLYHWKLVRQHXS,MXVWNHSW Thank you for all the work you have done and the people how much we appreciate things and how much we care for on many trips.Also, when they come home they spend time SUDFWLFLQJDQGSUDFWLFLQJXQWLO,FRXOGҕQDOO\VROYHLW7KH you are saving! You have inspired me! it, it also can show how kind you can be to one and another. with us. I wouldn’t live in a good country system because thing I like most about Cubing is being a part of the Cubing Sincerely, 3UDFWLFLQJJUDWLWXGHFDQEHQHҕWWRJHWXQVWXFNDQGWRNHHS I wouldn’t get as many rights. For example, I wouldn’t Community. It’s something I feel very proud of. Once again, Ansley Godfrey, 6th grade

onto the College Acceptance 6 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020

On May 14, 1945, Stars and Stripes published its first newspaper in the Pacific. To commemorate 75 years serving the military community in the theater, we’re taking a look back at Stripes history through the writing and photography of a dedicated staff spanning generations. Stars and Stripes has proudly supported the Pacific military community since the beginning and will continue to serve the troops and families at the heart of our work. Tuskegee Airman, visiting Yongsan, talks about integration of military

STORY AND PHOTO BY JEREMY KIRK, Carter performed well with the 99th STARS AND STRIPES Fighter Squadron, flying 77 combat mis- Published: March 3, 2004 sions against the German and Italian air forces. The unit — along with the 332nd YONGSAN GARRISON — The day Pres- — destroyed 17 German aircraft over ident Truman signed the order desegre- Anzio Beach during the Allied invasion gating the military in 1948, now-retired of northern Italy. Lt. Col. Herbert E. Carter remembers a During his military career, Carter’s mix of emotions among his fellow black decorations included the Air Medal with aviators. four clusters, the Air Force Commenda- The decision meant the Tuskegee Air- tion Medal, the European Theater Medal men — an all-black group of pilots, who with five Bronze Stars, the National De- trained and fought together in World War fense Medal and the Air Force Longevity II, in the skies over Europe — would no Medal. longer be assembled in one group but He earned a bachelor’s degree from be dispersed among different Air Force the Tuskegee Institute and a master’s de- units. gree in education. It meant the realization of a long-time The desegregation of the military and goal — racial equality, at least in one seg- the Tuskegee Airman laid the ground- ment of society — but also the end of an work in the next two decades for radi- era. Gen. Leon LaPorte, U.S. Forces Korea commander, right, greets retired Lt. Col. Herbert Carter Monday at Yongsan Garrison, South Korea. Carter, a member of the famed first all-black fighter squadron, the cal changes in civil rights and American “You see in my group, we had been Tuskegee Airmen, spoke at Osan Air Base, South Korea, for Black History Month. society. Desegregation of the military together since 1942 for some six years,” was a stepping stone to the 1954 Brown said Carter, who, at 84 EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: from Suwon and Kimpo prior to 1948 actually made the Tuskegee v. Board of Education Supreme Court years old, looks two de- air bases in South Korea Airmen stand out, Carter said. decision that ended school segregation, cades younger. throughout the 1950-53 “As we looked back then at the Carter said. “There was that esprit Korean War. achievements and performance of the Carter still calls Tuskegee home — and de corps, that fellowship, Carter is now active in 332nd [Fighter Group], we felt that it he says great strides have been made to that unity. Now we come speaking to schools on the had some impact on the decision to inte- stop racism; however, finer points of true to realize we were going to be shifted to accomplishments of the Tuskegee Air- grate,” Carter said. integration — such as balanced schools the four winds. You were going to lose men and ensuring their work is noted for “We realized that had we not been seg- and balanced economic opportunities — that camaraderie.” posterity. regated, the record would not have been still need attention. By the end of World War II, the Army While in South Korea, Carter ad- as evident and identifiable.” “We have not eliminated racism in Air Corps had trained 992 black men at dressed servicemembers at Osan Air For the military, having segregated America, and there are people just wait- Tuskegee, Ala. Base on Saturday for a Black History units simply wasn’t efficient, Carter said. ing for an opportunity to let it rear its About half performed combat mis- Month gala and spoke at schools. Further, it was dehumanizing. ugly head again,” Carter said. sions in Italy, with 150 men dying ei- Part of his work is to encourage mi- “We Tuskegee Airmen say when our “Today it might be Muslims, tomor- ther in training or in combat as part of norites to consider aerospace careers. general officers evaluated the perfor- row it might be anti-Semitic. You still the 99th Fighter Squadron or the 332nd About 12 other Tuskegee Airmen also are mance and the contribution of the Negro have people who feel and think the Afri- Fighter Group. still active in the awareness campaign, in World War II both in the air corps and can-American is inferior and not equal to It paved the way for the 51st Fighter Carter said. Surprisingly, there are fewer in some of the integrated Army units, it them and should not be in public school Interceptor Group, the first integrated minorities involved in military aviation became evident that pigmentation of the with them. Air Force combat unit, Carter said. than there were when the Tuskegee Air- skin of the soldier or his creed or his reli- “It isn’t dead,” he said. “It’s been re- Composed of 60 percent black aviators men were active, he said. gion really had no bearing whatsoever on duced tremendously, but there is still and 40 percent white aviators, it operated The segregation policy of the military his capability to perform,” Carter said. much work to be done.” ‘Satchmo’ swings at Walker Hill Resort opening

BY AL RICKETTS, way through such foot-stompers as “Back Home STARS AND STRIPES Again in Indiana,” “The Saints” and “Mahogany Published: April 10, 1963 Hall Stomp.” Armstrong’s famous gravel voicee drew repeated applause as he tackled slow stan-ann- SEOUL — The Saints marched in the Republic of Korea Monday night, with Louis Armstrong and his trumpet dards like “Blueberry Hill” and “That’s My Home.”e.” clearing the way. Armstrong received strong support throughoutt tthehe The ageless “Satchmo” was on hand to open the show from Billy Kyle on piano, Arvell Shaw on bass,b ROK’s multi-million dollar Walker Hill Resort, located Trummy Young on trombone, Joe Darensbourg on clar- on the Han River, just 35 minutes from the heart of inet and drummer Danny Barcelona. Seoul. Shaw, a veritable giant of a man, drew EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: An estimated 800 ROK and U.S. mili- heavy applause when Louis featured tary dignitaries, including Gen. G.S. him in a couple of solo spots. Louis Armstrong at Walker Hill Resort in 1963. Photo by S. Kim, Meloy Jr., commander-in-chief United Louis and his romping crew will hold Stars and Stripes Nations command, Korea, were jammed forth at Walker Hill for two weeks be- into the impressive Clover Club at Walk- fore flying to Japan for a series of night Facilities include a night club with a revolving stage er Hill to watch Armstrong’s two hour-long perfor- club and concert bookings. and a sustaining show of some 20 girls, a. 13-piece or- mances. The Walker Hill complex is composed of 26 recre- chestra, swimming pool, bowling alley. numerous bars, Any doubts concerning the durability of Pops’ “chops” ational buildings, including hotels, motels, a mansion barber shops and Turkish baths. were quickly erased as the old warhorse winged his and the four-star Clover Club. Outdoor sports are also available. NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 7 More notes on Arthur Godfrey’s trip to Korea BY AL RICKETTS, stage!” Nevertheless, it was a pie-munch- While Fran Scott (Tony’s wife) poured gal- STARS AND STRIPES ing social of the first order. lons of green tea, Arthur and Tony had a Published: April 19, 1960 Although actress Shirley MacLaine ball. couldn’t be on hand for the big event, she Aided by top-flight kotoist Shinichi MORE NOTES ON ARTHUR GOD- sent a cable and a present to the men in Ko- Yuize, Tony played two of his own com- FREY’S TRIP TO KOREA: Between chop- rea. The cable read: “Two Easter bunnies positions (“The Cranes in Vie Winter Fly per flights and surprise visits to military en route to all the men Away” and “Cherry Blos- night clubs, Arthur made several appear- Revisit the in Korea. With good care soms Falling on Children ances on AFKN-TV. He gave the weather and whatever it is that Playing”) for the chor- report last Friday night (explaining that past through bunnies do naturally you tling Godfrey. he had been taking showers for years “but should have enough for Later on, Mitsubu the writing and I didn’t learn how to take a bath till I got everyone in a little while. Oyama, a country boy to Japan”) and showed up Saturday after- Sorry I can’t be there. who plays some swinging photos of noon for a two-hour radio-TV simulcast. Happy Easter. (Signed) samisen, and a cute little The Saturday shindig drew an estimat- Shirley MacLaine.” singer named Hiroko Stars and Stripes ed 1,000 fans who had come to Vagabond Rumor has it, however, Moriyasu got into the act. Hill to watch Joe (Stickbuddy) Cooper and that both bunnies turned Arthur struggled mightily reporters over the Al (the Sound) Evans bury the hatchet at out to be boys. Tch, tch. with a difficult Japanese the end of their heated feud over hillbilly BACK IN JAPAN AF- folk song but got the hang past 75 years at: and pop music. TER HIS WHIRLWIND of it in time to back Hi- Godfrey, sporting an olive drab field 36-HOUR TOUR of Ko- roko with his faithful uke. 75.stripes.com jacket, strummed his uke and sang at rea, Godfrey continued to Unfortunately, the length for the receptive crowd. In the end, tape a one-hour radio pro- Arthur Godfrey in Tokyo in April, wildest part of the whole Country Cousin Cooper presented the 1960. Photo by sandy colton, Stars gram every day. Before and Stripes session wasn’t taped. grinning redhead with a framed certificate leaving for Korea he did The Shinjuku Jazz Quar- that made him a member-in-good-standing a hotel room show with EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM: tet (consisting of uke- of the Piney Woods Rooters Club, of which Jack Benny, staged a jam leke, clarinet, koto and Cooper is something called “the supreme session in which Benny samisen, with Hiroko exalted nabob.” fiddled while Arthur uked joining in) sat down in an- We, too, were admitted to the Piney (?). Both Benny and God- other room to wail their Woods club after Cooper introduced us to frey wore yukata for the occasion. way through an unusual version of “St. the highly partisan crowd as “the man who Arthur’s last day in Japan (Tuesday) Louis Blues.” started all this.” Our heart sang with joy was event in a taping session at the home of Godfrey left Japan Tuesday night but when we were greeted with friendly cries clarinetist Tony Scott, who has staked out plans to return in June to film a television of “Boo!” and “Git that fat man off thuh a little claim in the heart of old Shinjuku. special featuring Japanese talent. 8 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020

Photos by Melanie Miller, Stripes Korea

Seoul

Daejeon Cheongdo

Daeguu

Gwangju Busan

with Friends in Cheongd un ooff iinterestnterest to tthehe aadults;dults; somewsomewherehere tthehe o F BY STEPHANIE DOUGLAS, children could run around but wasn’t too STRIPES KOREA themed café. The Wine Tunnel is open expensive or too far to travel. Were we daily, all year round. s we sat there planning trips for the aiming too high? Apparently not, because As the rain was holding off despite the school vacation during monsoon we managed to create a great day out for clouds, we drove south of the city to the A season, my friend Melanie and I everyone in Cheongdo at the Persimmon Cheongdo Rail Bike. Nestled in a valley knew that we needed a flexible indoor Wine Tunnel, and the Rail Bike. and along the Cheongdocheon stream, and outdoor plan. Something that was Cheongdo, a small town south of Dae- the Rail Bike is a 4-person cart that you fun for the kids, as well as gu, is mainly known for bull fighting. pedal along a rail track. The children However, with the pandemic, the public were very excited as we set off but it was stadium and museum have been closed hard work for those of us providing the to the public recently. Less commonly leg power! The bikes are heavy and we known is that the Cheongdo region is were relieved to reach a slight downhill noted for growing persimmons. Persim- to give ourselves a rest and a chance to mons are not a well-known fruit to most enjoy the picturesque countryside. At the Americans, but here in Korea, they are end of the track, a turntable sets the bike deeply rooted in tradition, culture and on its return journey and luckily, a pulley mythology. This orange fruit grows on gets the bike up that slope we so freely trees from October to December. As well After the recent rain, the tunnel was coasted down on the way out. The trail is as being eaten fresh, dried and juiced, damp underfoot but still suitable for 5km in length and takes around 45min. persimmons are used in candies, des- strollers and was a nice relief from the Prepare to feel leg burn the next day! serts, salads, and to make tea and vine- humidity outside. Inside, there are huge A 4-person rail bike costs 20,000`; gar. Persimmons were traditionally used vats containing the fermenting juice and discounts are available for large groups. as a natural dye for clothing and wood. crates of bottled wine of different vin- The Cheongdo Rail Bike area also in- The juice of unripe persimmons dyed tages. The tunnel was also filled with cludes 2-seater road bikes for rent, fabric a brownish orange and helped fun photo opportunities. While most of campsite, mini train, mountain bike jump ward off insects and prevent mould. these were wine or dining related, there course, playpark and duck boats. There As a group of 10 adults and 13 chil- was also a black light room and the chil- is a small 7/11 shop but no restaurant or dren, we were excited to check out a dren definitely enjoyed themselves pos- café. The Rail Bike is open daily, all year unique tourist attraction in the Wine ing with the various props and scenes. round. Tunnel. Originally built in 1898, this The tunnel is free but at the entrance is To finish up our day, we ended up at a railway tunnel was used for military a shop selling both dry and sweet wines cute café called Souju. The food was Ko- transportation but lay empty for de- and other persimmon products. Persim- rean with a couple of Western dishes, and cades before being converted for wine mon wine is definitely an acquired taste they had a group room available to use. fermentation. It is built of red brick with – even the sweet version is quite bitter. Despite the excellent food and setting, an arched ceiling and keeps a consis- The wine tunnel is located in a small the highlight for the children was the tently cool temperature all year round. village in the countryside outside of small water stream running through the It is this fact and the belief that “ions” Cheongdo. Parking can be difficult on grounds. By this time, the rain had start- from the bricks aid in the fermentation weekends and during the high season. ed up again but they happily spent the process, that make the tunnel an ideal There are a number of cafes and restau- rest of the afternoon splashing around in place for storing the wine. rants in the local vicinity, including a frog the water. NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBERE 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 9

Garden in Forest Works The Garden in Forest Works area has been built with- in F1963 to link nature to the urban landscape that is busy hapskorea.com Busan. People can purchase a variety of horticultural goods here including flowers, potting soil, flower pots, trees, fertil- izer, and more. Gardening programs are also available. Peo- ple can enjoy the warmth from the facility’s greenhouse and humble snacks like organic tea, organic salad, rice balls and more are available for purchase. Hours: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday; closed Mondays URL: instagram.com/gnf_works Sukcheon Hall While F1963 is now a lovely art space, its past life as an industrial factory has not been completely erased. Exposed ceilings and big pipes remain intact, but this space’s modern interior design will instantly remind you it is now a place for Plenty to see and do at performance. The layout and design of Sukcheon Hall, a 600- seat performance space, can be arranged depending on the needs of any specific performance. The space was opened last year with a series of performances by the New World Philhar- Mangmi-dong’s F1963 monic Orchestra and lauded conductor Nanse Geum. A num- ber of future exhibitions are planned, including the conclu- HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE YES24 Used Bookstore sion of an excellent exhibition on 27 examples of reinvented This is much more than just your ordinary bookstore. Besides 1963 is a success- foreign closed industrial facilities that will run until Dec 23. the written word, YES24 offers stationery, accessories, toys, re- Tate Modern from England, Speicherstadt from Germany, ful example of cords, and more. But, make no adaptive reuse. The High Line from New York, Noritake Garden from Japan, F mistake: this is first and forefront and more are being highlighted in the exhibition. Entrance is The former wire fac- a bookstore, one that offers more free. tory has been trans- than 200,000 of them within its 500 formed into an awe- square meters. Hours: 10 a.m. through 6 p.m., everyday except Monday some art complex. In addition to all of this, there What once produced are many other things offered, as Terarosa wire ropes for almost well. These include the ability to Despite its large size, Terarosa is also a very warm and in- 50 years now produces sell your old books, meet authors, viting spot. Large tables made of steel provide relaxation and delicious coffee, beers performances related to certain an opportunity for and provides a venue books and more. Out of print books, study and the coffee for artwork, books, foreign books and others not usu- is sublime. Terarosa music and plants. ally easy to find are also available. originated in Gang- Dynamic Busan Take your time and linger among the many wonderful books. neung and has since Magazine lists five great rea- expanded across the sons why to head to F1963. Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. weekdays; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. weekends nation. Its location in F1963, however, is the only one in Busan. Its made-to-order, hand- drip coffee is brewed from a wide range of coffee beans includ- ing Guatemala Tulio and Ethiopia Yirga-cheffee. The shop also offers delicious desserts like croissants, scones, pound cake, cookies, tiramisu, and tarts. Hours: 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily

Praha 993 By now, you have checked out some books. Maybe you have enjoyed some art. You relaxed among plants and even got a cup of coffee during your entertaining excursion to F1963. What could possibly be left to do? Grab yourself a beer and some tasty Czech Republic grub, of course. Launched in 2017, Praha 993 bring Czech-style beer to Korea. Varieties range from pilsners (which originated in the Czech Republic) and stouts to India Pale Ales and seasonal specialties like pump- kin ale that are brewed on-site. These pair well with an as- sortment of both Czech-inspired and pub-familiar meals in- cluding fish and chips and Koleno, a savory slow-roasted pork knee that is a quintessential Czech feast. Praha 993 also has a location in Seomyeon. URL: praha993.com

Stripes Korea is A Stars and Stripes Community the official views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. locations where overseas DOD personnel are advertised in this publication shall be made Publication. This newspaper is authorized for government, including the Department of located. The appearance of advertising in this available for purchase, use, or patronage publication by the Department of Defense for Defense or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD publication, including inserts or supplements, without regard to race, color, religion, sex, members of the military services overseas. newspaper, Stripes Korea may be distributed does not constitute endorsement of those national origin, age, marital status, physical However, the contents of Stripes Korea are through official channels and use appropriated products by the Department of Defense handicap, political affiliation, or any other unofficial, and are not to be considered as funds for distribution to remote and isolated or Stars and Stripes. Products or services nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. 10 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020

Photo courtesy of Inje stadium Photo courtesy of Inje stadium

Let’s go go-karting! STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, lights? Go-karting tracks in South Korea are bringing With every turn, the massive G-force reminded me I STRIPES KOREA the spspeedeed anand action you may be looking for. wwasas ddrivingriving on a reareall racetracracetrack.k. A recent trentrendd iinn tthehe country iiss comcombiningbining go-go-kartskarts aveave yyouou been searchinsearchingg for an anandd hihigh-speedgh-speed racetracracetracksks fforor an experexperienceience bbeyondeyond escape from the citycity where yyouou wwhathat yyou’dou’d expect.     can roam freelfreelyy on the road There are three types of karts you can ride at Inje I recentrecentlyly visited Inje SpSpeedium,eedium, a gogo-kart-kart raciracingng Stadium. The first is a recreational cart ((2500025000 KRW wwithoutithout traffic jjamsams or traffic vvenueenue featuringfeaturing a sea horse-shapedhorse-shaped course wwithith varvari-i- H or about $$2222 per 10 min) which is the standard go-kart ous elevatielevationon chanchangesges where yyouou can ggetet avaavailableilable in tthehe statesstates.. ThTheseese kkartsarts aarere yyourour kicks byb drivingdriving freelfreelyy and ververyy fast. fforor cchildrenhildren over 11 years oold,ld, as ttheyhey are InjeInje SpeSpeediumedie um isis a placeplace wherewhere peoplepeople Check it out llow-speedow-speed anandd are mostmostlyly jjustust fforor enteenter-r- wwhoho dream of becominbecomingg prprofessionalofessional racrac-- tatainment.inment. ers can go ttoo trtryy their hand at kartinkartingg on a circuitcircuit liklikee a proprofessional.fessional. TheThe race tractrackk IInn Korea, a go-go-kartkart isis commonlycommonly re-re- meetsmeets thethee glglobalobal stanstandardsdards (Federation(Federation ferred to as small kart for kids. So, don’t InternationaleInternattionale de L’AutomobileL’ A utomobile -FIA expect tthehe U.S. stanstandarddard go-go-kartkart wwhenhen GradeGrade 2),2), drawingdrawing kartkart enthusiastsenthusiasts you askask fforor one iinn Korea, ttheyhey wwillill suresurelyly fromfrom aallll overover.. ttakeake yyouou children’s kart. Instead, ask for UnlikeUnlike other kartinkartingg tracks, this a ccircuitircuit kkart.art. tracktrack has a width of about 14 mmeterseters CCircuitircuit karts weiweighgh about 154 poundspounds,, andand iss 1.3 kkmm llong.ong. So, bringbring your are powerepoweredd by ffour-strokeour-stroke enenginesgines wwithith friendsfriends because the ggenerousenerous width of the circuit nnineine hhorsepowerorsepower anandd wwillill set you backback aboutabout 30,000 allowsallows otothershers to attempt to wwhizhiz bbyy as ttheyhey vvieie fforor KKRWRW per 10 minutes. firstfirst plaplace.ace. TheThe tractrackk iiss a ffunun way to get some speespeedd anandd hhaveave It tooktook me about a lap to getget used to the track, but fun with your friends and family. Also, good to note: soon I waswas flyiflyingng at a speed of 70 km per hour. I felt kartinkartingg experiences varvaryy bbyy stadium, thus mamak-k- likelike I was iinn a convertconvertibleible ggggoingoing wawayy ffasteraster thanthan tthat.hat. iingng iitt wortworthh yyourour ttimeime to trtryy tthemhem out anandd fifindnd tthehe

Photo courtesy of Inje Stadium Hapgang makguksu ( restaurant) hile in Gangwon-do province, you should try makguksu, the local noodle made from fresh potatoes. Everywhere you go, you Wwill notice there are plenty of makguksu restaurants to choose from. Three of the most well-known makguksu restaurants are Wondae makgusu, NamBuk-myeonok, and Hapgang makguksu. I chose the Hapgang makguksu restaurant, which is located near the mouth of Nearincheon(stream), because the other two were closed that day and a bit far from where I was. I ordered the basic makguksu noodle (7,000KRW). Before digging in, the restaurant server suggested adjusting the seasoning with vinegar, sugar and sesame oil to my liking. They serve the makguksu noodle with pan-fried Topu, white Kimchi, hot broth and kimjang Kimchi with oysters. All the side dishes were fresh and delicious. The dark-colored noodle, served with spiced pollack and seaweed, really had a chewywy texture and its taste of sweet and tangy. “Many westerners visit here to enjoy the new dining experience, if the red pepper sauce (gochujang) is too hot for your plate, add a little broth, it will neutralize the spicy flavor and tastes different,” said, Yun Yeongsil, the owner of the restaurant. They had really tasty dishes and generous servings considering its price. If you want to take a rest from the fatigue of your journey, visit Hakgang makguksu near the downtown area of Inje.

ADDRESS: 15, Inje-ro 291beon-gil, Inje-eup, Inje-gun, Gangwon-do NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 11

   

„All kart services are available in Inje stadium only after 4:30 p.m. during the winter season. During the regular season, go-karters can use the track at a different time, but need to make a reservation through the stadium website. „What to bring – International or domestic driver’s license (military driver’s license is not accepted) „Bring gloves and wear long-sleeved shirt, pants and running shoes while you race.

ADDRESS: Inje International Circuit, 242-2 Buku-ri, Girin-myeon, Inje-gun, Gangwon-do, South Korea PHONE: +82 2 561 6990 CIRCUIT TYPE: Permanent road course GETTING THERE BY CAR Camp Humphreys to Inje International Circuit (3h 20 min) Osan Air Base to Inje International Circuit (3h 10 min) HOMEPAGE: https://www.speedium.co.kr/ (KOR/ENG) Make sure check the operation calendar     in the homepage to avoid a scheduling conflict with a    professional auto race team.

irectly across from the track’s grandstands, find the Inje Speedium Classic Car Museum, featuring a touch of nostalgia with vintage cars. Check out the seven different display Dspaces featuring classic cars. Hop into a light-weight roadster MG MGB from the late 1960s for a quick pic. The space of the museum divided into various zones inspired by racecar films. Check out the old garage and gas station zone, part of a scene from Australian crime thriller “Son of a Gun,” which features many cars from the 1970s to 2000. The size of the museum is smaller than others and the entrance fee is not cheap (12,000 won per adult) considering the number of displays. But, for classic car enthusiasts, this is worth a gander.

„PRICE: Service person, group over 10 people (6,000KRW) „OPEN HOURS: Jan to Dec 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. (closed every Monday)

A grove of birch trees. Photo courtesy of gangwon-do provincial office

perfect fit for you. And, while you’re there, take some time to enjoy the  3 nature that surrounds the track. The mountainous region of   E  Gwangwon-do is home to Wonaeri, a birch forest that is great for hiking. The forest is rich in snow-white birch, which grows thick Photo courtesy of Paju city hall along the mountain path. (Note: Entrance into the forest will be available after May 16 this year.) To counter the stroll through the forest, a thrilling go-kart here are only two places in Korea where the official go-karting racing competition is held: Paju race at high velocity might be just what you need. Inje stadium Speed Park and Korea International Circuit (KIC). The coolest thing about these tracks is that will definitely have you flying by the seat of your kart and feeling T there is no speed limit, unlike the Inje Speedium track with a max speed limit of 70 km. like a professional driver. Located in the Yeongam-gun, Jeollanam-do region, the Korea International Circuit (KIC) is the hy- [email protected] brid F1 circuit that is about a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Camp Humphreys and Osan Air Base. Their miniature go-kart circuit reflects the feature of the real F1 race track. Their sport kart has a top speed of 60km and costs 25,000KRW per 10 min. You’ll need to get a circuit license (about 150 min. and 100,000 won) if you want to drive a racing kart with no speed limit. The Paju Speed Park is located north of Gyeongi-do, and its 1.2 km-long, 12-meter wide kart circuit is just for the go-karting (50,000KRW per 10 min). Racing from the 12 corners and 2 hairpin corners are the real charm of go-karting. You know, drifting kart in Mario Kart game is easy as a pie, but the real racing was a different story. And who knows, you may just be a racing champion in the making. Some of the best profession- al drivers - Michael Schumacher, Daniel Riccardo, and Lewis Hamilton - all began their motorsport careers in karts.

„KIC ADDRESS: 2, Epeuwon-ro, Yeongam-gun, Jeollanam-do PHONE: 070-4277-7788 HOMEPAGE: http://www.koreacircuit.kr/ „PAJU SPEED PARK ADDRESS: 261-1, Deokcheon-ri, Papyeong-myeon, Paju-si, Gyeonggi-do HOMEPAGE: http://www.pspark.co.kr/ OPERATION HOUR: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (winter time), 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. (summer time)

   „You need an international or domestic driver’s license (military driver’s license is not accepted.) „At Paju Speed Park, you don’t need to get an additional circuit license for fast kart like at other circuits. Karting Circuit in KIC „Paju Speed park will give you some basic techniques Karting Circuit in KIC for about 10 minutes free of charge. 12 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020

SEONGSU-DONG Hip neighborhood continues decades-old tradition of handcrafted footwear

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, Today, the importation of cheaper goods and consumer From Seoungsu STRIPES KOREA buying habits have changed the shoe business. As the shoe Station, using exit business declined, so did the foot traffic on the street, leaving 3 or 4 as a starting eongsu-dong, located in central Seoul, is historically behind shabby factories and dilapidated houses. point, you will have a semi-industrial district known for its handmade Seounsgu-dong is currently undergoing a revival as the access to over 500 shoes and stylish cafes in repurposed warehouses and stores handling various materials like leather fabrics a factories. Old print shops and small factories in this city’s urban regeneration project and young artists are S bringing new life to this area. Between the exit 1 and 2 of hardware for shoemaking. A stop here is a great option neighborhood have been converted into restaurants and art those in the market for high-quality leather at good price Seoungsu Station, “fromSS” and “SSST,” two of the area’s galleries, making it a hot spot for Down the street at JS Shoes Design Lab you’ll find J most symbolic shops, sit across from each other. SSST hous- fashionistas and local shoppers. Tae-soo, the shoemaker known for making first lady K Check it out es 11 shoe workshops as a joint market where you can get In the 80s, shoe artisans from Jung-sook’s shoes for her visit to the United States in 20 Myoeng-dong, another one of handmade shoes at affordable prices from around 50,000 to with President Moon Jae-in. Though the workshop uses Seoul’s famous fashion districts, 80,000 won (about $42.25 to 67.60). SS houses 7 stores where latest technology to measure clients for the perfect fit, experienced a golden age, but you can see the skills of the seven experienced shoemakers old way of crafting and creating quality footwear remain soon sky-high rents would cause a offering the luxury of made-to-measure shoes setting you “I started this job when I was 13 and I’ve been work mass-exodus of these small busi- back anywhere between 180,000 to 400,000 won for a pair. on it for over 50 years now, but it’s still difficult for me ness owners to meet all the demanding customer requirements,” said J nearby Seong- Tae-soo. “The moment I make shoes that fit a customer’s f su-dong. A tiny well is the happiest time for me.” museum at the Around the corner from the station, hip hop graffiti c Seoungsu Subway Station traces this histo- ers store fronts and alleyways, embodying the youth ry and growth of the handmade shoe street cool vibe the new generation of Seongsu-dong dwellers after this transition. bringing with them. The street is a really great place to

SHOE SIZE CHART KOREA (mm) US (man) US (woman) Spea 220 5 225 5.5 Kore 230 6 235 6.5 240 6 7 245 6.5 7.5 „ I lik likee 250 7 8 „ Cou 255 7.5 8.5 „ Wha 260 8 9 265 8.5 9.5 „ Do y 270 9 10 „ They 275 9.5 10.5 „ Hav 280 10 11 „ How 285 10.5 11.5 „ Do t 290 11 12 295 11.5 „ Yes, 300 12 „ The 305 12.5 „ Do y 310 13 NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBERMBER 9, 20202020 A STARSSTARS AND STRIPESSTTRRIIPPEES COCCOMMUNITYMMUNITY PUBLICATIONPUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 13

JS DESIGNN LABLAB ADDRESS: 57, Yeonmujang-gil,ang-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seouloul TEL: 02-464-1060, 010-5204-1060-5204-1060 E-MAIL: [email protected] Seoul map

Plenty to see, eat at Daelim Changgo s newn entrepreneurs and leather goods’ craftsmen have begun to settle tthroughouthr this rustic neighborhood, so have new cafés and eateries Amimirroringi the new tenants’ cool, hip aesthetic. DaelDaelimimm Changgo, a café-slash-gallery, is one of those that I happened to sstumbletumble upuupon on my walk around the neighborhood. TThehe lolocationcaa opened in May 2016 in what was once a rice mill built in the 1970s. HHongonn Dong-hui, the owner, studied Western painting in college and has a backbackgroundgroun in architecture aandnd indoor ddesign. You can see hhisis handiworkhandiwor in the Daelim the coexistence of oldolldd andandd newneww whilewhhiilele watch-wata cchh- ChanChangogo GalGallery,le including various ing craftsmen stillill wwoworkingrrking onon ttheirheeiirr wwearableeaarraablble ssculptures,culptures, ccolorful lighting and pieces of art. interior ggarden.ard Though the shoeshooeess hhereere e araarere sslslightlyliigghhtlyy mmoreore From the exterior, the gallery and expensive than yyououu ccanann ggetet aatt a mammallallll oorr a ggege-e- ccaféafé look smsmall,m but once inside, the and neric shoe store, the quality,uallityy,, aattentionttt ene tit oon ttoo ddedetailettaaili aandndnd spacious iinteriorntt is overwhelming. for the history might just bee woworthorrtth spsspendingenndiingng a llittleititttlle exeextraxttrra ThThee cacaféfé iiss ddivided into four es. for a unique pair. And evenveen iiff yyou’reouou’rre nnonott onn ttheheh mmar-ara - ddifferentifferent seseatinge sections — two Jun ket for a new pair of kicks,ks,, tthishiis diddistrictists riicct ooffersffffeerrs plpplentyeenntyty areas on ttheheh first floor with many Kim of restaurants, pubs andd sshopshhooppss ttoo sspspendpeennd sossomeommee ttimeimime art pieces aand funky paintings 017 exploring. in evereveryy ccorner.o Another seating the [email protected] area is a ttinyi space between the the first floor and the rooftop. For an s. escape ffromror the bustling ground king flfloor,oor, heheada to the rooftop to enjoy e to experiexperimentalmem art work and a completely different atmosphere. Jun AAss ffororr the food, you can choose from full meals such as and wood-fired feet ppizza,izza, oorr you can go for a quick bite. For drinks, I recommend their fresh juices oorr cups of joe made from coffee roasted on-site. I picked the Hallabong-ade cov- made ooff Jeju oranges for 7,500 won (about $6.34) to quench my thirst. The hful, fresh drddrink was not too sweet and so refreshing! If you’re not driving, they are have a great selection of craft beers. see The seats were filled with young locals and foreign tourists there to enjoy the arart,t,t and this weekday afternoon. On weekends, you’re required to pay a 10,000 won entrance fee. If this place is busy, “Café Onion” or “Zagmachi” iinn the nneighborhood would be alternative options to enjoy the laid-back atmoatmospherespp and great drinks.

ADDRESSADDRR : 78, Seongsui-ro, Seongdong-gu, Seoul PRICEPRICE RANGE: 8,000 to 29,000 won akin’ PHONE:PHONN 02-449-9669 Daily 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. „ Can I help yyou?ou? HOURS:HOURR ean WEBSITE:WEBSS https://www.instagram.com/daelim_changgo/ Dowa deurikkayo?rikkayo?k? „ I’m lookingg fforor some dress shoesshoes.. Jeongjang gudureul chatgo isseoyo. e this one.one I-ge maume turoyo uld I try them on? Han beon sineo bwado doelkkayo? Jal majayo? at size are you? Saijeuga eotteoke doeseyo? you have them in a 260? Ibaegyuksip Saijeu Isseoyo?yo? y feel a bit tight. Jogeum jagayo. Ne ve you a larger size? Deo keun saijeu isseoyo? Pyeonhaeyo. w about these? I-geon eottaeyo? they fit alright? Jal majayo? , very comfortable. Ne Pyeonhaeyo. se shoes fit me well. I’ll buy them. Jal majayo. I-geolloll jjuseyo. you accept credit cards? Sinyongkadeu batnayo? 14 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 ns to give Gimhae hapskorea.com so a v 5 rea isit STORY AND PHOTO BYYUN-HEE JEONG,

HAPS KOREA MAGAZINE

irthplace of former Korean president Roh Moo- hyun, Gimhae is not just a place to go catch a Bflight to your next destination. Located along the Nakdong River, the half-million residents that call it home have plenty of things to see and do in this bustling city. Here are five reasons to give it a look if you’re look- ing for a quick day trip out nearby.

LOCATION Gimhae is located in Gyeongsangnam-do, with Changwon and Masan also nearby making Gimhae Tomb of King Suro quite accessible for a short day trip. It just takes 30 minutes to an hour by car or by the Busan-Gimhae regular flea markets and the always interesting Gaya Light Rail. The city itself is easily accessible to get Culture Festival which has been hosted since 1962. around as well. THERE’S A LOT OF PARKS IT’S A QUIET CITY There are parks all over Gimhae, so you can go for a For those looking for city life with a slightly country nice, leisurely stroll just about anywhere. Many people feel, Gimhae is a good place to start. The city is full of take a walk in the park in the morning and night, and amenities, but with about five times fewer people than especially, Yeonji park is worth a visit. in Busan. Traffic is much lighter and people-friendly. There are also a lot of great authentic foreign restau- THE WEATHER rants for the foodies. Gimhae is southwest of Busan and due to the coastal climate, it’s the mildest city in Korea with an annual LOTS OF HISTORIC THINGS TO SEE average temperature of 15’C with moderate precipita- Gimhae has a lot of historical relics from Gaya, so tion. It’s also inland enough that snow falls occasion- there are lots of museums and the royal tomb from the ally in winter. The region’s weather also has helped Gaya Dynasty that are mostly well-preserved. Events it become an agricultural leader in the country and is and festivals are opened in front of the museum, with known for growing flowers, especially roses. NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 15 16 STRIPES KOREAA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020

Explore Korea and bring your pet, too BY CHIHON KIM, bull terriers, Dobermanns and German between first-class and business-class pounds on board and only if they are STRIPES KOREA shepherds, as well as rodents, reptiles, train, standing close by them, which is in a carrier. Some companies’ policies and birds of prey. None of these rules another option you can consider, too. state they reserve the right to refuse e all love our furry friends! apply to registered service dogs as they pets on their vehicles. These policies Traveling with a pet is a great On the subway are allowed on the train for passengers also vary on weight limitation and car- way to share some nice memo- Most of the subway providers around W with disabilities. rier dimensions. ries with Fido but be prepared for some the nation don’t have accurate animal Follow the rules If your pet is allowed on the bus, make minor inconveniences along your jour- policy for boarding a pet, but the compa- • Your carrier must be covered, keep- sure they’re on their best behavior as ney. In South Korea, every transport nies allow you to travel if you have your ing the interior out of view. drivers have discretionary power. company has particular rules regard- small pet in a carrier. Visit the line’s own • Carry your pet’s vaccination certifi- • For more information on PCSing with ing pets, so it’s important to plan ahead. website for more information. cate and card at all times. your pet visit: https://8tharmy.korea. If you’ve traveled with pets before or On the express bus • Your pet must remain in the carrier army.mil/site/newcomers/traveling- are just beginning to, you’ll want to Most of the bus companies allow pets.asp take note of the tips below. for the duration of travel. only small pets weighing under 11 [email protected] Taking your pet on a train • Avoid blocking aisles or doorways with the pet carrier. Korail and SRT trains allow cats and „ Can I take my dog(cat) on the bus? Speakin’ dogs smaller than 23.62 inches long on • Etiquette: Bath your furry travel Korean their express or slower trains. How- companion and control feed 4 to 5 Gangaji(goyangi)reul derigo Trip talk! ever, your pet must fit comfortably in hours before boarding a train. beoseue tal su isseoyo? a pet carrier under the seat in front of TIP: Though the KTX’s first-class tick- „ My dog (cat) is small. Je gang- you or on your lap. et (for an adult) is more spacious and a-ji-neun jagayo. „ Thank you. Gamsahapnida. The carrier must not exceed the di- a little more expensive, it could be a „ My dog (cat) is so gentle. „ Sorry for the inconvenience. mensions 45cm x 30cm x 25cm for Ko- good choice if you want some space Je gangajineun jeongmal Bulpyeoneul kkichyeo deuryeo rail and SRT’s carry-on requirements for the carrier. If you’ve spent enough yamjeonhaeyo. joesonghapnida. and the total weight of the carrier and time on the rail system in Korea, you „ Here is my dog’s vaccination „ Thank you for your patience. pet must be less than 22 pounds. may have noticed many pet lovers Among the list of prohibited pets or place their travel kennel at the end of card. Gangaji yebang Yanghaehae jusyeoseo animals are fighting dogs, such as pit a train car or spacious luggage space jeopjongkadeu yeogi isseoyo. gamsahapnida. NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 17 Deadlines for shipping holiday gifts near

How to send it To ensure delivery of holiday gifts by Dec. 25, the Postal Service recommends that cards and packages your mail be sent to military APO/FPO/DPO addresses overseas no later than the mailing dates listed below. „Space-available (SAM) – The „Special handling – Offers pref- cheapest service because Military Mail Priority Mail erential handling if you’re First-Class Mail Parcel Airlift Mail Space Available packages take longer to reach Addressed Express Military Priority Mail Retail Ground sending something that needs a destination. To and From Service (PMEMS) Letters and Cards (PAL) – 2 Mail (SAM) – 3 extra care. – 1 It offers air transport of parcels on a space-available APO/FPO/DPO AE Mailing tips ZIPs 090-092 Dec. 18 Dec. 11 Dec. 11 Dec. 4 Nov. 27 Nov. 6 basis to or from military post Print names and addresses offices outside the U.S and APO/FPO/DPO AE N/A Dec. 9 Dec. 9 Dec. 4 Nov. 27 Nov. 6 of both shipper and recipient surface transport within the ZIP 093 clearly on packages with a pen U.S. There is a weight limit APO/FPO/DPO AE Dec. 18 Dec. 11 Dec. 11 Dec. 4 Nov. 27 Nov. 6 or permanent marker. of 70 pounds and a combined ZIPs 094-098 Put an extra label with the addresses inside the package in length and girth limit of 130 APO/FPO/DPO Dec. 18 Dec. 11 Dec. 11 Dec. 4 Nov. 27 Nov. 6 inches. AA ZIP 340 case the original one is defaced. „Parcel airlift (PAL) – Uses air Also include an itemized list of APO/FPO/DPO Dec. 18 Dec. 11 Dec. 11 Dec. 4 Nov. 27 Nov. 6 transport on a space-available AP ZIPs 962-966 contents. basis similar to SAM plus air https://www.usps.com/holiday/holiday-shipping-dates.htm „Select a box strong enough transport to the destination city to protect the contents and or the city nearest to it inside appropriate for the amount and Holid S the U.S. There is a weight limit ay mailing deadlines between the Pacifi c and CONU size of items inside. of 30 pounds and a combined „Leave space for cushioning length and girth limit of 60 inside the carton, using bubble inches. 1 – PMEMS: is available to selected military/diplomatic Post Offices. Check with your local wrap, Styrofoam peanuts, „First class – Handles ite ms Post Office to determine if this service is available to an APO/FPO/DPO address. or newspaper to protect the weighing up to 13 ounces. 2 – PAL: is a service that provides air transportation for parcels on a space-available basis. It contents. Flat-rate packaging available. is available for Standard Post items not exceeding 30 pounds in weight or 60 inches in length and girth combined. The „Use tape designed for shipping, „Priority – Same as First-Class applicable PAL fee must be paid in addition to the regular surface price for each addressed piece sent by PAL service. using enough to secure the 3 – SAM: parcels are paid at Standard Post prices with maximum weight and size limits of 15 pounds and 60 inches in mail but for items weighing opening and seams of the box. length and girth combined. SAM parcels are first transported domestically by surface and then to overseas destina- „ over 13 ounces to 70 pounds. tions by air on a space-available basis. Put newspaper or packing Combined length and girth material in hollow items to limit of 108 inches. Flat-rate against loss or damage up to „Certified – Provides evidence of „Certificate of mailing – Offers avoid damage during transport. packaging available. $5,000, with the price based mailing as well as the date and evidence of the date your mail „Write “fragile” or “perishable” „Express mail military service on the declared value of the time of delivery or attempted was accepted by the post office. on packages when shipping (EMMS) – Offers preferred item(s). delivery. Requires the recipient „Return receipt – Provides proof such items. and/or expedited service. Not „Registered – Offers maximum to sign upon delivery. that an item was delivered, „Use boxes, envelopes and available from all USAFE security, insuring items up to „Delivery confirmation – Shows through a postcard or email tubes the post office provides APOs. $25,000, with the price based when an item was delivered or showing the signature of the for Express Mail and Priority on the declared value of the when delivery was attempted recipient. Mail. Extra services item(s). Tracks movement of using a Track and Confirm tool „Restricted delivery – Specifies „Insurance – Offers coverage mail from beginning to end. you can use on your computer. who can sign for and receive – Military Postal Service Agency 18 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020

Boost your immune system with deep-fried Korean ginseng STORYSTORY AND PHOTOS PHOTOSSB BYBYYC CHIHONCHIHHIHOONN KIM,KIM, ThisThhis ttraditionalrar ditional hherberb has a bitter ttaste a andnd yyouoouu SSTRIPESTRIPES KKOREAOREEA cacann find it in many ffoodood prproductsoducts arouaroundundund thethe pepen-en- insula. When I was little, my mother usedsed to makemake n Korea, ginseng is considered a superfood and is me tea with honey-soaked ginseng to hhelpelp keep mmee loaded with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory healthy. Iproperties. In addition to regular exercise and Below is a great recipe for a deliciouss llllocalocal snsnackack getting enough sleep, a healthy diet is key to staying and one that may help boost your immuneune ssystem.ystemm. healthy, so why not add a little ginseng into the mix? [email protected]

„ PREP TIME: 30 minutes „ COOK TIME: 20 minutes „ TOTAL TIME: 50 minutes „ DIFFICULTY: Easy „ SERVINGS: 2

INSTRUCTIONS

Wash all ingredients includingcluding ginseng thoroughly andd pat ddryry 1. with a towel. A slender gginsenginseng iiss suitable for frying. Cut themm into thithinn slices and set aside. (You canan cut the roots part and fry them separatelyparately foforor presentation).

In a large bowl, combine roughly all the frying powder 2. and icy water with chopsticks, then incorporate sliced ginseng. *Take note: If you whisk the batter, the dish will lose the crisp texture. So, expect the batter to be a little on the watery side as this will help create a crispier fried ginseng.

INGREDIENTS In a large saucepan, heat the oil to 170 degrees Celsius. Add a few drops of battertter VIDEO MAIN to the pan. If the batter comes to the „ 3 fresh ginseng roots (about 90 grams) 3. How to cook surface of the oil it is good sign that the oil iss „ 1/4 carrot – (about 40 grams) „ 1/4 perilla leaf (or green onion) - (about 50 grams) ready for frying. „ 1/4 autumn squash (or sweet potato) – (about 80 grams) CheckChe it out „ 1/2 (or 1/4) onion – (about 50 grams) Mix the ginseng and veggies well and carefully place into the oil in batches. Fry until golden brown. BATTER Remove from heat and drain on paper towels. „ 1.5 cups of ice water 4. ׮! (Pronounced: jalפcups of frying powder (Twigimgaru) Bon appetite or ੜݡѷण 2 „ „ 1 tbsp of chill powder (or 5 tbsp of Kimchi liquid) meok-ke-sseum-nida)! Dipping sauce: Eat with a sweet dipping sauce, such as honey or syrup. 5. NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 19 20 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 Persimmons reign king in Korea

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, the season. STRIPES KOREA This time of year, you will find these gems ev- Ddeolbeun-gam erywhere, from traditional markets, small grocery f you’re American, all things pumpkin might stores to big shopping malls at varying prices. Known as hachiya be yyourour gogo-to-to for fall and the holiday. But in Korea has two major varieties of persimmon: persimmons in English, I Korea,Korea, pears, appapples,les, tantangerinesgerin and persim- dan-gam (fuyu persimmons) and ddeolbeun-gam ddeolbeun-gam, on the mons reireigngn king. For me, (hachiya persimmons). More than a few Koreans other hand, are mostly tthehe pepersimmonrsim is the get the two confused and even use them inter- acorn-shaped, but you ddefiniteefinite representation changeably since the delicious and prevalent per- will find some similar in tthathat ffallall has arrived in simmons can be a bit of a tricky fruit. shape and size to dan- Korea. SweetS persim- Both persimmons can range from light yellow- gam. These, however, mons area beloved in orange to a deeper, richer carrot-like hue, how- should not be consumed KKoreaorea and the bright ever, dan-gam and ddeolbeun-gam have distinct until they are soft and oranorangeg fruit is con- differences in their astringency, the way they are completely ripe or else ssideredider a jewel of prepared and how they are eaten. suffer the extremely bit- ter consequences. Eventually, the fruit sweetens as it ripens and is the basis for Dan-gam almost all of the persimmon treat and pastry recipes. Ddeol- The dandan-gam, which literally means beun-gam’s sweetness is preferred over dan-gams for this very “sweet persimmon,” was introduced to reason. Korea in 1920 by a Japanese botanist dur- ing the Japanese colonial rule. They are a very different texture from their close rela- Hongsi tive, the ddeolbeun-gam. Featuring its squat-shaped figure, the Hongsi is the ripest version of dan-gam variety can be eaten while still ddeolbeun-gam. Many Koreans also hard or soft like watermelon. Its flavor refer to this one as “yeonsi.” Both are profile is sweet and crisp. Similar to apples, Koreans enjoy the soft, but the hongsi typically ripens on fruit by itself or adding slices to their salads. the branch and yeonsi is picked and put through an artificial after-ripening process. Despite how they get there, the sweet and rich tastes of the soft persimmons remains unchanged.

Got-gam The dried persimmon, a traditional fruit snack called a got-gam, was my favorite when I was a child. Tradition- ally the dried persimmon was one of the key foods for the ancestral rite cere- mony, and my mother used to set aside the sweet snack for me after ancestral rites on Seollal, the Lunar New Year’s Day, and Chuseok, Korean Thanksgiv- ing Day. For me, Seollal and Chuseok are also days to enjoy got-gam, not just for greeting relatives and memorial services.

Gam mallaeng-I This is my new fafavorite fruit snack. Gam mallaeng-I is a specialty of Cheon- gdo, a city known for its flat persimmon. The persimmon is cut into bite-sized pieces which makes it an optimal snack for munching. Gam mallaeng-I is not prepared in a traditional process and re- quires a longer drying time than got-gam or other varieties, thus making the pieces a little chewier. Gam mallaeng-I first appeared in Cheongdo in 1996 and this deli- cacy is now available throughout the country.

Even if pumpkin is your favorite flavor of the holiday sea- son, you just may find a new favorite in Korea’s fall fruit vari- ety. Visit your local grocery store for all the different persim- mon snacks and try them all! [email protected] NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 21

STORY AND PHOTOS BY CHIHON KIM, dumplings, which weree STRIPES KOREA perfectly crisp on thee outside and soft on the

hen the cold weather hits, many of us turn inside with a perfect ra- to comforting warm foods and drinks. In tio of vinegar and soy W

Korea, one our go-to favorites when the

W sauce. a

signs of winter appear is hot pot. Soon, our hot pot r At Bu-heung Garden near Pyeongtaek City Hall, arrived and I could m

the specialty is dumplings which they also incor- smell the ocean. I porate into their excellent bowl of hot pot soup. first tried the broth

Owner Kim Seoung Geun opened this spot over 10 which was clean u

years ago after traveling the peninsula sampling and had a deeply p

different regional dumplings. rich flavor (Pro When I entered the restaurant, the lovely tip: If you run out w braised dumpling scent enveloped me like a warm of broth, remem- i hug on a cold autumn day. The restaurant itself t ber that you can h wasn’t anything fancy, but if the food tastes as good always ask for a re-

as it smells, then nothing else matters! fill). Next, I spooned K My friend and I ordered a small mandu jeongol one of the kimchi o dumpling hot pot with seafood for 19,000 won (or dumplings floating in r $16.85) and we ordered fried dumplings stuffed hot pot. I bit into the e with pork and chives on the side for 7,000 won. If soft dumpling and the a you’re really hungry or have a bigger party, don’t well-fermented kimchi n worry because Bu-heung Garden also offers a me- inside gave me a burst dium and large-sized portion of their hot pot. For of flavor which did not d the two of us, the small-sized hot pot was enough. overwhelm thanks to the u For our hot pot we chose jiri broth, a creamy, subtle outer portion. The m white broth made of seafood. The restaurant of- meat dumplings were alsoo p fers two other options: botong mat, a moderately delicious and gave depth to thehhe l spicy broth made of seafood, chili powder and chili hot pot. in paste; and eol-keun-han-mat, which is the spiciest Though Bu-heung Gardeneen is g broth available. well-known for its dumplings,, ffor me, h Our hot pot came with kimchi dumplings, sa- the best part of the meal wass the friedd ot vory meat dumplings, tofu, enoki mushrooms, rice at the end of the meal. Ass we reachedd p vegetables, clams, shrimp and live abalone. Dur- the end of our hot pot, our servererrver offered us ot ing the winter season, this hot pot is topped with a nalchial-bokkeumbap fried ricece with flying fishsh at den small octopus instead of the abalone. roe for an additional 3,000 won per person. Bu-heung Gar While waiting for our main dish, we dug into the To enjoy this side dish, remember to leave some fried dumplingspg made veggveggiesi and broth in the pot. I added these to my bKby KimKiKim’sim’s ’ mother. th friedfrie rice for a delicious combination of soft rice, We devoureddev flaflavorfulvov r broth and the crunch of the roe— one last ththese flflavoravor explosion to end the meal right! OtOtherh menu items at Bu-heung Garden include Bu-heung Garden seseafoodafa o kalgulsu jeongol, or dried Pollak dumpling sousoup,up, braised short ribs with seafood and a vari- ADDRESS: KOR [陲韥 뵾몒겑 눥闑뫥ꈑ26꘽韭 31-8], eetyy oof dumplings with different fillings. They also ENG [31-8, Jogaeteo-ro 26beon-gil, Pyeongtaek-si] havehave a kids menu featuring rice balls with flying HOURS: Weekday & Sat 11:00 a.m. to NAVER MAP fifisfishh roe and a giant pork cutlet. 9:00 pm Add this neighborhood spot to your list when (break time 3 – 5 p.m. weekday only), yyoyou’re looking for a good place to warm up with Closed on Sunday. a dumpling hot pot. Its casual setting and de- PRICE RANGE: 7000 – 39000won liliciousc food easily made Bu-heung Garden one PHONE: 031-658-3015 you’llyo want to visit multiple times as the winter weatherwew ramps up. [email protected] 22 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 o H oto c ntes SPECIAL alloween ph t winners

his year’s Halloween photos submitted by Stripes’ readers were amazing! We had many submissions and many votes. This year, Austin Siegel from Korea won the $50 prize; Rose Betts and her family from Japan T won the $30 prize in the group costume category; and, Sarah Arellano Santos from Yokota Air Base won the $20 prize in the individual category. Check out their submissions as well as some other honorable mentions below. And, don’t forget to follow us at Facebook.com/StripesPacific for more great contests like this!

GROUP Wi nner s AustinA Siegel from Korea

INDIVIDUAL

Will Le from Korea

Hattie Paul Knowles from Korea Julie Hu from Korea Rose Betts Sarah Arellano Santos from Yokota NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC STRIPES KOREA 23 Stripes Sports Trivia SAY MY NAME! Are you a quarterback? If so, I’m in your nightmares. I’m not that weak offensive lineman on your team. No, I ate him for breakfast. That strict diet led me to the 2016 NFL Defensive MVP award with my former team. Nowadays, though, I play for a franchise known for its defense. Who am I?

Answer Mack Khalil

Crossword by Margie E. Burke

ACROSS 12345 6789 10 11 12 13 1 Travel by bike 14 15 16 6 Breeding horse 10 Alternative to 17 18 19 plastic 20 21 22 14 Mumbo jumbo 15 Gardener's need 23 24 25 16 Chorus member 26 27 28 29 17 Wipe away DID YOU 18 Anagram of 30 31 32 33 34 35 "mite" KNOW? 19 Kind of chance 36 37 38 39 20 "Little House on 40 41 42 43 the Prairie" shopkeeper 44 45 46

21 Foreordain 47 48 49 50 n South Korea, a person’s 23 Kind of raise blood type is believed to 25 Like Scrooge 51 52 53 54 55 56 26 Small piano I contribute to their personality 57 58 59 and characteristics. Many South 28 Country estate 30 Anchovy holder 60 61 62 Koreans believe that people are 31 "Semper Fi" 63 64 65 compatible based on their blood group types 36 Musical drama Copyright 2020 by The Puzzle Syndicate 38 Colony member 39 Prepare to pro- 2 Days of ___ 37 Move elsewhere 49 Thorny blooms pose, perhaps 3 Loretta Lynn's 41 Not easily 50 Starter home, 40 80's Soviet father was one debunked perhaps policy 4 Let up 42 Deborah of "The 52 Mine product 43 Golf gadget 5 Ball in a socket King and I" 53 Quick haircut 44 Take the wheel 6 Polo, for one 46 What the haves 55 Outdated exple- 45 "Twilight" vam- 7 Bag for books have tive Hangul of pire 8 Secondhand 47 Bicycle wheel 56 Antitoxins 47 Theater fixture 9 Lands of an part 59 Night flier Ҋೱ 50 Fisherman's estate 48 More than mean the week basket 10 Skillet material gohyang (hometown) 51 Math device 11 Bold poker bet Answers to Previous Crossword: 54 Helps out 12 Police operation STAB CRAPS RUST 57 Give the boot 13 Warm and cozy TIME HELEN ONTO Language Lesson 58 Word on a head- 21 Gyro holder OB I T EL I TE SNAG stone 22 Military lockup LISTPRICE TIARA 59 Play loudly 24 Digitize an old EASEL SERPENT 60 Ship's backbone LP, perhaps ROTH PIS USA 61 ____ to rest 26 "Knock it off!" ARROWS TATTERED I can’t do it. 62 Rose essence 27 Popeye's prop BEEF HAUNT MARA 63 Otherwise 28 Like some piano ED I FY I NG EMBLEM 64 "Tickle me" guy keys TON ERA IDEA 65 Sorority letter 29 One opposed SALTPAN ARGOT 32 Hard to find ACTUP HALFTRUTH Hal su eopseoyo. DOWN 33 Pay back in kind BRAN MORA L ASHY 1 "Big Brother" 34 Social equal BUTT CROWE STEM host Julie 35 Downhill racer AXES MANSE SORE

68'2.8 (GLWHGE\0DUJLH(%XUNH 'LIILFXOW\0HGLXP ,KtdK^K>s͗ ĂĐŚƌŽǁŵƵƐƚĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞ    ŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͖ĞĂĐŚĐŽůƵŵŶŵƵƐƚ ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͖ĂŶĚ   ĞĂĐŚƐĞƚŽĨϯďLJϯďŽdžĞƐŵƵƐƚ     ĐŽŶƚĂŝŶƚŚĞŶƵŵďĞƌƐϭƚŽϵ͘ Answers to Previous Sudoku:                                                                                          &RS\ULJKWE\7KH3X]]OH6\QGLFDWH          24 STRIPES KOREA A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION 75 YEARS IN THE PACIFIC NOVEMBER 26 − DECEMBER 9, 2020