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David Walker at the Firestone Walker Invitational Beer Fest Photo Credit: Nick Gingold, Craft Media L.A. BEER BEFORE GLORY By Daniel Drennon The American (Craft Beer) Revolution continues to rage like a California wildfire with now over 6000 breweries in the US and over 900 here in California. And while this uniquely American Revolution is inspiring new breweries all over the world, there is an ironic twist in that one of the most visible leaders of the country’s love affair with craft beer is not even a brewer and, well, he’s British. (FULL STORY ON PAGE 12) INSIDE BREWER’S CORNER WISHFUL DRINKING PINTS & QUOTES TOPA TOPA LADYBEER

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Beer Paper is dedicated to providing news, commentary, and education for the craft beer communities of Los Angeles, Orange County, Inland Empire and Ventura County.

OWNER/PUBLISHER/EDITOR: Daniel Drennon CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Josh Cortez @belmontscraftyneighbors HEAD WRITER: Daniel Drennon @daveziol EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR: Renee Imhoff

@hashtag_hops SENIOR CONTRIBUTORS: Sarah Bennett, Tomm Carroll, John M. Verive

SPECIAL CONTRIBUTORS: Harmony Sage Fried, Erin Peters

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BREWER’S CORNER DRINK LOCAL, TASTE GLOBAL A Tale of Carnivale Brettanomyces by Harmony Sage Fried Drink Local is the lifeblood of Craft to converse and have a good time. This to embrace a revolution of sour beer Beer. This statement is proudly is also why so many flock to support makers doing it their way. This was embraced by brewers and patrons their “Local”, and enjoy a small taste a chance to swap stories, share feral alike, printed on t-shirts and coasters, of the makers’ craft. concoctions and share cultures. and dear to our hearts. In a field that prides itself in using local ingredients, These qualities personify the vibe Particularly when referencing sour innovating green practices, and at Carnivale Brettanomyces in beers, most breweries have a house cultivating local community and Amsterdam. Running June 21-24 of culture. These are invited by a coolship cultures, our motto is drink in the 2018 and in its 7th year, this festival (a large open vat of cooling wort), neighborhood and support the local has grown while still maintaining harvested from local fruit, or collected craftsman. Why drink beer that has an intimate feeling. Loners, punks, from bottle dregs of favorite beers. At been shipped across the country when and rebels from all over the world Long Beach Beer Lab, we use a culture we should enjoy a fresh beer made came together to share and taste Wild discovered on the skins of locally around the block? Ales. Without corporate sponsorship, grown grapes collected from Levi’s this festival was not held at a big Mom’s backyard, lending a unique There tends to be a type of an convention hall, but rather spread Long Beach flavor to our experimental individual who decides to open a craft out all over the city at local pubs, Ales. A term often heard at Carnivale brewery. Typically, a hard-working breweries, shops, and historic Brett, “Beerior”, is used to describe the renegade of sorts, a individual who churches. Many cycled from lectures, local ingredients in a beer that allow does not fit into the regular nine to five to events, to beer pairings - ducking us to taste something unique from its desk job, someone who takes risks into small shops on cobblestone paths origin. and thinks outside the box. We have or walking down steep stone stairs to rejected the Macro way of making and discover a room of beer fanatics who The Carnivale embodies much of the man who organized it. Jan Beekaa drinking beer and have created spaces were all there for the same reason; Harmony Sage pitching Long Beach Lemmens is a tall and lanky man sourdough starter in to mega Collab at whose boyish charm, shaggy long hair Oedipus Brewing and relaxed character is reminiscent Photo Credit: Paul Edwards of a favorite mystery solving cartoon character. (I wonder if he has a Great our lunch in a carry-on bag. Our plan Dane at home?) Jan gave the festival a was to bake sourdough bread for our goat mascot because many Brett Beers pairing, which meant we had to feed are described as “Goaty”. As a beer the starter on Wednesday evening, enthusiast who used to beertend at In and make the dough Thursday for the De Wildeman in Amsterdam, Jan came Friday event. Somehow we did this to know all the wild craft beer brewers while also attending the kick off mixer in Europe. Now he is a brewer for De at Brewery Oedipus before returning Kromme Haring which specializes in to bake all night. Friday morning we Belgian and Wild Ales. All year long woke up early with loaves in hand, he works tirelessly to plan Carnivale cycled on to the ferry, and crossed Brett, inviting unique people from all the river to Fromagerie Abraham Kef over who do interesting work with where our beer was waiting patiently. Brettanomyces. After our moment in the lecture We had the honor of lecturing about spotlight, we quickly cycled over to brewing with sourdough as well an old church where more events were as facilitating a beer, cheese, and happening. Arriving late, we rushed sourdough pairing at a charming up the cobblestone steps through cheese shop located off the river Ijt. narrow, dusty stone walls to join a There were many lectures, some on lecture by Jace Marti from August the history of sour beer and brewing Schell brewing company in New Ulm and others on the science of cultures, Minnesota. Jace was presenting about yeasts and bacteria that we all love August Schell’s historic brewery and so much: Brettanomyces! Brett will the revamping of their entire beer eat everything (or not?) - this was the program. August Schell is known for main topic of discussion around town. their lager program, and now produces North Star Berliner-style Weisse. Levi and I arrived Wednesday with This overhaul was nothing less than our house culture smuggled in a spectacular, including the rehydration Tupperware, tucked away amongst Beer Paper | JULY 2018 PAGE 7 woman whose personality outweighed her stature and delicate features, held her own in a mostly male dominated room. When asked many times by passersby if her husband was the brewer she replied in a strong voice “I AM ZE BREWER”. We tasted wild ales from Tommy Sjef at a beer pairing dinner hosted by Elaine at Wilde Chutney. This tasting took place in an old ship hanger Jan Beekaa Lemmens’ 5 minute relax in converted to a body shop, which is sun before festivities begin now a restaurant. The dining area is Photo Credit: Jan Beekaa Lemmens an intimidating massive space with of giant Foeders and removal caked-on old cars placed sporadically. Tommy wax from the wood, both inside and on is a child prodigy who doesn’t look the outside of the vessel - transforming old enough to drink beer by American useless relics into vessels filled with standards, let alone make some of delicious liquid. the best wild ales I sampled during my time at the festival. He started That night we met Ulrike Genz from blending beer in his Mother’s house, Schneeeule brewery in Berlin at our and now has a warehouse full of tap takeover at BeerTemple American barrels. Tommy starts with 50% Beer Bar. She spoke to us about fruit and blends back with old and Harmony Sage riding a bike from tap takeover to beer event shneuuuuuulleee, her small production young lambic, taking characteristics Photo Credit: Levi Fried from different barrels, resulting in a facility and what “true” Berliner was a large turnout for this tasting of Craft Beer will always be Drink sumptuous, funky, vinous, and unique Weisse means to her. She carried small and many of us rushed to get a seat. Local and support our local craftsman; experience in a glass. warm bottles of her berliner weisse in We were surrounded by Wahalla’s but to fully understand our product a backpack and graciously opened one Antidoot Wild Fermenten from Eastern fermentation tanks, walk-in cooler, it is essential to taste styles in their for us to try. It was light, slightly tart and accompanied by white boards of place of origin. Craft beer celebrates and surprisingly refreshing for warm Belgium gave a tasting located inside Wahalla brewery’s warehouse. There brew schedules and yeasts pitches. Not collaboration and the sharing of beer. Ulrike, a spunky powerhouse of a an unfamiliar scene for those of us in information with like-minded brewers the industry. Antidoot recently turned and blenders all over the globe and from home brewery to a professional promoting unique global beerior. farmhouse brewery, producing all sorts of wild fermented refreshments. Inevitably, almost out of nowhere, it They brought a Cider, an Ale, and a was time to return home. This rare Spontaneous Wine. On the table next opportunity, only lasting a few days to the tasting glasses was a skull of was a whirlwind of experiences that a goat and large bunches of herbs, will stay with us for a long time. flowers and hay foraged from all Sampling beers from many different over Europe. Their Peach Ale was places from all around the globe like eating a sour gummy candy, broadened my notion of what a wild bursting with juicy peach flavor yet ale can and should taste like. This finishing dry and funky. The Cider, community of artisans drawing from made from apples grown on their each other’s technique and process farm’s orchard also finished perfectly enriched my ideas about what works dry with an effervescent crispness and what doesn’t. It is so important that is not usually present in most to take ourselves outside of our American Ciders. The Wine was deep own cellar to gain knowledge from and rich with herbal notes and that others and bring it back to our local Brett goatiness – which I sipped while community of drinkers, and to always gazing at the skull and foraged herbs. be striving to make better beer for our patrons. All of these brewers and blenders have many things in common, Local. Harmony Sage is a business owner, Whenever possible, we use our unique artisan baker, yeast whisperer, brewer, regional ingredients and resources adventurer and kickass mom. When for the betterment of our beer and she isn’t baking up a sourdough storm community. We source from within you can find her swimming at the pools our neighborhood and reinvest in and beaches of Southern California. our local economies while gaining Her education in pastry arts from the characteristics and flavors from ICC and training at the Ritz Carlton everything around us. These flavors allow her to add professionalism to her and characteristics are apparent when creativity. Come by and enjoy some of tasting all the different ales. A pillar her creations.

Beer Paper | JULY 2018 PAGE 9

WISHFUL DRINKING ET TU, BRUT? Betraying the Name of an Existing Beer Style by Tomm Carroll Don’t get me wrong. I’m all for Sturdavant of San Francisco’s Social sugars and syrupy sweetness without experimentation in brewing. And there Kitchen and Brewery. watering down the alcohol percentage. is a lot of that going on in the current craft beer industry, as the multitude of It’s a crystal clear, effusively The exceedingly light color of these our country’s independent breweries effervescent, ultra-dry, pale-yellow- beers is achieved by using the lowest (and some of the pseudo-craft sell- colored beer, fruitily aromatic with color malt, typically Pilsner malt, as outs as well) vie to create a beer barely any bitterness (IBUs in the low well as adjuncts like flaked corn and that’s innovative, distinctive, even sui 20s). A welcome alternative to the rice, which also further lightens the generis — something to set them apart ubiquitous murky, milkshake-y opacity beer’s body. of the hazy, juicy IPAs, this new beer from their countless colleagues and Brut Forced competitors alike that, hopefully, will somewhat resembles a light-hued West start at least a fad, maybe a trend, and Coast IPA with its clarity. But, thanks Personally, I’ve only tasted one of if they’re lucky, a full-fledged Beer to late hop additions, it nonetheless these newfangled dry beers so far Judge Certification (BJCP)-sanctioned shares the fruit-forward and barely and found it crisp, clean, a bit fruity, beer style. bitter qualities of the unfiltered-and- somewhat sparkling, and refreshing. then-some NE IPAs. The best of both I enjoyed it, and look forward to Some of these experiments are not worlds? It will be interesting to see trying more of them. It was Simmzy’s successful (Samuel Adams’ long- how the more militant Haze Bros react Beerbank Bubbly IPA at the LA Beer defunct Brewers Patriot Collection to this latest take on the IPA; is it the Week Kickoff Fest. (Thanks for not of colonial-era beer styles, Anheuser- degree of transparency or the degree using “Brut” in the title, Greg and Busch’s poor-selling Budweiser of bitterness that is more important to Herbie!) Select 99-calorie beer, Small Town them? Brewery’s no-longer-fashionable Not I don’t have a problem with this type The beer is made bone-dry by the Your Father’s Root Beer hard soda). of beer, how it’s made, or what it tastes Samuel Adams/Weihenstephan addition of the amylase enzyme in Others catch on and actually become like. My nitpick is with its name; I’m Infinium, 2011 the brewing process — sometimes in recognized beer styles (Brett Beer, apprehensive over its appellation, Photo Credit: Tomm Carroll Contemporary-Style Gose, Hazy or the mash, sometimes in fermentation “Brut.” Juicy Pale Ale/IPA/Double IPA — the — which breaks down what would latter very popular iterations of the otherwise be residual sugars in the At a San Francisco Brewers Guild American-Style PA/IPA/DIPAs, which beer, making it less sweet, and hence “Meet the Brewers” event at Social finally made the BJCP cut this year, very dry. The goal is to have the beer Kitchen on June 20, Sturdavant and will be a judged category at this finish at or below 0º on the Plato discussed the origins of making — September’s GABF). gravity scale, a measurement of the and naming — his game-changing concentration of dissolved solids, version of an IPA. Fortunately, Bay Now there’s a new contender on the mainly malt-derived sugars, in the wort Area beer writer Dave Jensen (beer47. block and, being yet another variant in order to estimate the beer’s finishing com) live-tweeted a video (twitteo?) on the almighty IPA and its relatives, dryness. of the brewer’s talk, which you can it’s already a hit among craft brewers access here: https://twitter.com/beer47/ and trend-seeking beer fans, especially Interestingly, amylase is the same status/1009594010946506753. in California. It’s the so-called Brut enzyme used to make light beer, as IPA, which was pioneered last fall by well as to lighten the body of high- “I first called it Hop Champagne, GABF Award-winning brewer Kim ABV beers like Imperial Stouts and to just be literal about what it is,” Triple IPAs by reducing residual Sturdavant said, although he later revealed that he uses neutral ale yeast, adding, “I don’t really find Champagne yeast to have a particularly interesting profile, or wine yeasts in general.” Back to the name: “[As to] what to call it in terms of a style,” he continued, “I was talking to a friend who’s a big wine drinker, and she said, ‘Brut is a word we use in the wine world very commonly to describe very dry, sparkling wine.’ And I thought that was a good term to describe what I was Bières Brut: Malheur Brut Reserve, going for, and it all seemed to come Michael Jackson Commemorative Collection, 2006 (Continued on page 11) Photo Credit: Tomm Carroll

Beer Paper | JULY 2018 PAGE 11

(ET TU, BRUT? continued) Beer [sic].” And, with a shrug, he added, “I’m not too worried about it.” together to easily communicate to the consumer what it was.” This worries me, however. Call me a purist — even a curmudgeon — but Despite the appropriation of the I think people in the beer industry protected appellation “Champagne” who are serious about their work (which would be illegal to misuse in (particularly brewers), should be aware EU countries) in his working title, of beer history, especially existing Sturdavant should have stuck with styles and appellations, and to honor that name instead of Brut IPA. Why? them. The British beer style called Because “Brut” is already in use in Bitter has been around for well over the beer world. It is the name of a two centuries, and there have been so type of beer that originated in the East many beers since then that have been DeuS Brut des Flandres, 2011 Photo Credit: Christer Edvartsen Flanders province of Belgium in the more bitter than the beer with that empty beer glass… Everyone and his lengthy maturation (some are even early years of this century: Bière Brut name — especially after the Americans homebrew friend are now making a cave-aged in the Champagne region (aka Bière de Champagne). Granted, reinvented and amped up the hops on Brut IPA. And all of their friends are of France) and are subject to mèthode it’s not one of the better-known the also-British IPA style to 100 IBUs lining up to drink it. But how many of champenoise: The bottles are stored Belgian beer styles, but you’d think and more. But did they appropriate the them even know about Bière Brut? on their sides, with the cork tilting a professional brewer would’ve been term “Bitter,” which would be an apt down to allow the sediment to settle. aware of it and, at the very least, would name for their beers? Of course not, The Brutal Truth Over time, they are turned to move the not want to confuse consumers over because beer history, like beer itself, sediment from the sides and toward what kind of beer he created. should be respected. If you didn’t know, or need a reminder, here is some info on the apparently the cork, which is called riddling Later in his talk, during a Q&A, Yes, Brut means dry. But like Bitter, overlooked original Brut beer style: (remuage). Then the bottlenecks are Sturdavant was asked if he had heard that name is already taken. Why not exposed to cold, so that the liquid of Bière Brut and if he cared that his name this new beer what it is — Dry Brouwerij Bosteels’ DeuS and is flash-frozen, and the block of beer’s moniker had a similar name to IPA? Or DryPA, or DrIPA, or some Brouwerij Landtsheer’s Malheur Bière sediment is removed, a process called an existing Belgian style? He seemed other clever spelling. Or, for Ninkasi’s Brut and Brut Noir are perhaps the disgorgement (dégorgement). Next, a vaguely familiar with a beer utilizing sake, just use Google or a Thesaurus! best known, but there are some 68 dosage (liqueur d’expedition) of sugar the mèthode champenoise process and different Bières Brut from around the and beer is added to replace the lost responded, “I did not mean to cross Yes, I know, the beer is outta the tap, world (a few of them retired) listed on liquid before recorking and caging the over to anyone else’s existing style. so to speak; there’s no putting it back bottle for further aging. The Bières http://www.bellacor.com/productdetail/millennium-lighting-rwhs14-ga-r-series-galvanized-14-in BeerAdvocate.com, including from Thisch-warehouse-outdoor-pendant-shade-onl-595198.htm is a Brut IPA rather that a Brut in. I may as well be talking into an the likes of Mikkeller, Avery, Samuel Brut are delicate, high in alcohol (10- Adams/Weihenstephan, Birra del 14% ABV), highly carbonated and DRINK OUR BEER ~ CRAFT YOUR OWN Borgo, Cloudwater, Oxbow, Victory, often spiced. Color is determined by Laughing Monk, Strangeways and the malts used. even Vasileostrovskaya Brewery in Est. 2016 Russia. The U.S.’ oldest homebrew The moral of this rant? Don’t ask a Nano-brewery club, Woodland Hills’ own Maltose wine friend to name your beer for you! offering house Falcons, has brewed a few Bières Brut Award-winning beer writer Tomm beers on tap the traditional Belgian way, including Carroll is a longtime contributor Brut du Faucon, and won competitions to Celebrator Beer News. A BJCP- and LA’s only with them. schooled international beer judge, he brew your own Often fermented with Champagne is dedicated to beer education and the destination. yeast, at least for the secondary increased awareness of beer styles and fermentation, the Bruts, especially history, and is in favor of developing the Belgian- and French-made ones, new beer styles — as long as they are are created like, and resemble, not misleadingly named. Contact him sparkling wine. They undergo a at [email protected]. MURGY Zy We brew Californian Lagers, Steam Beers, Commons, Belgians & Weissbiers...and we’re Brew Works & Tasting Room kinda weird 22755 Hawthorne Blvd. Torrance, CA

www.zymurgybrewworks.com 310-791-1015 PAGE 12 JULY 2018 | Beer Paper

COVER STORY vineyard on the Central Coast close to where her family lived so we switched EER EFORE LORY gears, ditched the freeways and added B B G some horses and big dogs to the by Daniel Drennon family. We dug into the country life.

The American (Craft Beer) Revolution How did the brewery idea come continues to rage like a California wild about? fire with now over 6000 breweries in the US and over 900 here in California. Adam was running a third-generation And while this uniquely American family winery while I was growing Revolution is inspiring new breweries grapes and air miles with my tech gig. all over the world, there is an ironic I quickly became drawn to the artisanal twist in that one of the most visible life which Adam was already deep leaders of the country’s love affair with into, and we often churned on ways craft beer is not even a brewer and, in which we could grow the family well, he’s British. enterprise further. We both loved beer (more than wine) and so we thought David Walker, aka The Lion, co- the family should too. To our surprise, proprietor of Firestone Walker as seasoned vintners, they ducked the Brewing along with his brother-in-law opportunity, so Adam and I ran with Adam Firestone, aka The Bear, has it on our own; created the Firestone been a figure head in the emergence Walker Brewing Co, licensed the of the California craft beer scene. family name and dug in for a long, life Firestone Walker launched in 1996 changing haul. and, over the past 23 years, in addition to building a brewery and a brand, Jeffers Richardson (now the Walker has been the face and voice David and Polly Walker Photo Credit: Daniel Drennon Barrelmeister at Barrelworks) was of the award-winning brewery at your first brewer. How did you find I wanted to be a farm auctioneer but Head in mind and body…had never Jeffers? countless “Walker’s Wild Rides” quickly got sidetracked when I realized met anyone quite like her or since… and tasting occasions up and down it took longer to qualify than an bullseye. We always recognized our limitations; the Golden State and beyond. He actuary…so skipped out on University the winery taught us you need has served as the Chair of the Board and started my first business with a When did you relocate from England professionals if you are going to ask of Directors for the California Craft friend at 21...computer gig…I was to California and what were you people to put something you make in Brewers Association (the CCBA impatient. doing in the interim years before the their body. So, before we incorporated, advocates for California breweries in idea for a brewery was conceived? we sorted out some of UC Davis’ Washington and Sacramento). Meeting and marrying Polly freshly minted graduates. We quickly We married in ‘91 and jumped from Firestone plays a key role in the located Jeffers, whose work at the Tied DRENNON: Tell me about growing London to California: she had LA eventual birth of Firestone Walker so House in Alameda, illustrious name up in England? dreams and I knew the tech revolution tell us how, when and where the two and waist length mane pushed his was a west coast phenom. Somewhat of you met. Was it love at first sight? resume to the top of pile. He literally WALKER: Born on a farm in rural unplanned we had our three girls Who wooed who or was it mutual? joined the following weekend: we England, big family, one of five, plus within six years…she played “pregnant had a band. Between the three of us dogs, horses, cats, etc. Welly boots She was at an edgy London drama lady” TV roles and I looked sheepish. we began the process of building a in the winter, shirts off all summer… school with one of my best mates who I kept the computer gig rolling with microbrewery from scratch on a budget plenty to do. Went to an all boys dragged me along to a pub one night a partner in Silicon Valley, and Polly of around $75k. Adam’s vintner’s school in Devon; rugby, cricket, study on the Kings Rd in Chelsea, the rest is and I set about trying to buy a house… chops, Jeffers’ brewing principles and six days a week….old fashioned…I history. A curly haired California Dead it was cheaper to buy a bankrupt scraped along. my impatience got us off the ground. We toiled in an old warehouse on the Were you into sports, music, art? back 40 of a Chardonnay vineyard for five years, somehow working our Obligatory piano lessons resulted in way to 6000 barrels of American Oak a respect for the Sex Pistols and art Union fermented DBA. Jeffers bailed classes meant naptime. I was given after year three…he fell in love. “The plenty of chances to be a renaissance lunatics were running the asylum” for man, somehow missed them all. a few years. Loved sports; not gifted but not clumsy either so I managed to make Later, you had the other-worldly most teams; charmed by the traditions, good fortune to land Matt Brynildson teamwork and brotherhood of it all. as your brewmaster. How did that happen? What profession did you imagine you would end up in as an adult? In the mid 90’s, the microbrewing industry got flooded with pretenders Firestone Walker in Paso Robles Photo Courtesy of Firestone Walker and opportunists, the nascent consumer Beer Paper | JULY 2018 PAGE 13

L to R: Jim Crooks, Polly Walker, Jeffers Richardson and David Walker Photo Credit: Nick Gingold, Craft Media L.A. got scared, and our backwater of with American Gueze were threatening the beer world began to dry up. Matt’s Teutonic peace of mind. He During this time a local brewer who was going to build a different place had contracted his beer for years for different beers and needed help had recently built a new 30,000 bbl creating an old world in a modern brewery in Paso Robles. Sadly, he form. Timing couldn’t have been lost his dream to the bank during this better: Jeffers put the first barrels into contraction, so we stepped in and our brewery, was soaked in stories of made it ours for just over $1m. A big forgotten beer traditions and belonged bet for a 6000 bbl brewer in a world at his side. The Barrelworks was of beer indifference. Matt Brynildson liberated. was the resident brewer on site when we closed the deal; couch surfing and At what point did you realize that the fresh off the bus from Goose Island, artistry of craft brewing was catching he knew how to fly the space ship, so on and becoming a revolution? it was wise to add him to our ten- It was always a revolution to us as man enterprise. It wasn’t for several the odds of success were low and months that we would realize the quiet the establishment was in no mood to gent from Minnesota was a brewing change the status quo: the definition savant…the Lion, the Bear and the of Revolutionary fodder. However, Brewmaster were born. it wasn’t till I attended Savor in DC Jeffers returns from his world travels in the early 2000’s that I realized our and you pair him with Sour Jim world was being noticed. I dropped Crooks to launch Barrelworks. What into the Church Key where we’d was the story behind that? shipped some beer to celebrate the visit to DC. When I arrived I hit a line Jeffers cut his hair and returned to of folks all trying to get in to taste our beer after a fascinating ten years, and beer…I was dumbfounded. It was on! we wanted him back. Jim Crooks, our diligent head of lab had recently been posted to Buellton as his experiments (BEER BEFORE GLORY continued on page 15) &

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Why out to compete with are now making do you think that is and do you think similar beer, courtesy of their craft it contributes the obfuscation of the acquisitions. Guess what: full flavored, term “craft beer” in the minds of the time consuming, ingredient heavy beer-drinking consumer? beer sells…what a concept. One could say, with craft at 20%+ dollar share in The BA has many masters and that is the US we have put a significant dent reflected in their definitions and rules. with our revolution. Throwing sticks Like all of us they are not perfect, at big brewers’ beer nowadays is very but they do an amazing job and are 1990’s and counterproductive because essential to the health and safety of your future customer can’t tell the small brewers in America. They are a difference in many cases between you loud voice and it is important we all and them. Independence Matters...to David Walker and Matt Brynildson Photo Credit: Nick Gingold, Craft Media L.A. keep our message positive with regards some …but that risks becoming white to beer in our efforts to progress the (BEER BEFORE GLORY continued) breweries who are constrained by a noise as the BA had little choice but lot less. It’s confusing and harder and category. to create a broad definition. I wouldn’t How has your vision of Firestone noisier than it’s ever been. That said, Do we now need a new/improved term bet the farm on just an Indie moniker. Walker Brewing evolved over the past who wants a quiet life? Ultimately, it’s up to all of us to carry 23 years? to replace the word “craft” if, in fact, it has been all but stolen by insidious on doing what we do every day; brew The Brewer’s Association (BA) has the best beer we can, respect the It’s always been a joint vision; first corporate acquisition and marketing warned for years that craft breweries people who do it and tell our stories… Adam and I, then Matt, then all the strategies? opening that are making mediocre that’s the future…there are no short supporting cast too numerous to beer is an even greater threat to the Probably. I also think you ditch cuts. mention that care so much about movement than the well-documented our beers and our customers. “Beer “quality”, “my bad” and “learnings” buy-outs by corporate beer. What are with the same stroke of your Before Glory” remains the overriding your thoughts? vision; one that recognizes that without journalistic pen. beautiful beer none of this would have When it comes to beer quality, it’s happened or will continue to do so. irrelevant as to the provenance of the brewery. “Beer” is what is being The Firestone Walker Invitational examined here, not the resumes of has become the “Holy Grail” of beer those brewing it. If a brewery makes festivals, draws fans (and breweries) sublimely beautiful beer and delivers it from all over the world, and sells out to me fresh and affordable, then that’s in seconds. What do you think has a win. In essence that’s what we set out made it so special? to create; if all the brewers in the world The Invitational has grown into an do this, then we can smile and say we event that we treasure in Paso and changed the world of beer. feel a real responsibility to curate On the topic of corporate beer, I it with some intention improving have heard much debate about why on the experience every year. Our Firestone Walker has received a 99% focus is soundly on the brewer’s “pass” from your peer craft breweries experience and the eclectic group of all sizes as to your acquisition by that make the trip. We want beers Belgian brewery Duvel Moortgat you can’t find in California, served when other breweries acquired by by owners and brewers who can tell AB InBev, Constellation Brands and the story surrounded by beer lovers Heineken have been vilified. Why do who don’t feel crowded or a stranger you think this is and can you explain to the surroundings. I can only see it to our readers the difference? becoming more limited in the beers served and the tickets sold. If Sierra Nevada had acquired our brewery that would likely have been There are over 6000 breweries in the seen as an acceptable match. Duvel US and over 900 in California now. Moortgat is smaller than Sierra What do you think of the notion that Nevada, family held for 145 years there is a point at which the bubble and, in my view (and I am a Sierra will burst? devotee), has as much pedigree and There are 11,000 wineries in the US stability as our friends in Chico. Most and they are constrained by climate. students of brewing understand the We will see at least that many differences. I don’t expect everyone to PAGE 16 JULY 2018 | Beer Paper

PINTS & QUOTES LA BEER WEEK SHOWS OFF THE INNOVATIVE SPIRIT OF LOS ANGELES BREWERS by John M. Verive When was the last time you had a resurrected nearly forgotten styles. team behind Long Beach Beer Lab, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale is not far beer that showed you something The former, technically brewed in the and the beer uses sourdough starter from a Strong English Bitter brewed new? Two-plus years into the rise of enclave of Signal Hill and not Long to kickoff fermentation and includes with North American ingredients). the hazy IPA, the explosion of pastry Beach proper, is a throwback to one of an addition of baked loaves for extra Sometimes a spark of creativity stouts and the incongruous milkshake America’s early indigenous beer style: fermentable material in the tradition provides the small tweak that turns IPAs, the biggest trend to vie for the Kentucky Common. of the Continental Kvass style. As tradition into innovation, and one such your beer dollars has been a return to with much of LBBL’s brews, it’s an little change was responsible for the tradition (lager brewing). Not that I’m Hidden Hollow is mahogany-dark experimentation that draws on brewing most striking beer I’ve had all year. complaining as the current glut of lager and malt-driven. At mid-5% alcohol, history and modern techniques to craft King Carrot from Cellador Ales is a beer is wonderful (as I’ve propounded it drinks easy starting with a flood of something new. Rye Not is under 4% beer that sounds ridiculous, and with numerous times in this column), but rich bready malt flavors that break alcohol but heavy with bready flavors its vivid orange hue it kinda looks after the L.A. Beer Week Kickoff off at the finish with the crunch of and aromas and subtle lactic tang that ridiculous. The rustic ale is bottle Festival last month I was pleased to scorched toast. A roasted bitterness implies sourdough or the sharpness conditioned, not with honey providing find innovation alive and well. Here lingers momentarily then blends into of cultured butter. I’m excited to see the sugar as is standard at Cellador, are a handful of unique beers that a hoppy bite. Made with all traditional where LBBL takes the brew and how but with carrot juice. This should not stood out among the superfluity of American brewing ingredients from it fits into the blended beers that the work — and I doubt another brewer haze and hops. 6-row barley to flaked corn to the brewery is concentrating on. could turn roots to gold quite as well old-school Cluster hops, the brew is as co-founder Kevin Osborne has. Besides some wonderful lagers brimming with character. It’s been a Looking at traditions through a new Here’s what Cellador says about the (including a best-of-show contender in big hit in the tasting room, and has lens was the modus operandi for the unconventional conditioning process: Green Cheek’s Oaked Just Right — a helped drive the young brewery’s pioneers who launched the American lager aged in oak barrels once part of growth, and 10 Mile Brewing will craft beer industry (the venerable Firestone Walker’s fermentation union soon expand to a second tasting room setup) a return to tradition figured at a new Steelcraft development into two of the most intriguing brews planned for Bellflower. Finding a I sampled at the festival: Hidden market for dark beer in Los Angeles Hollow from 10 Mile Brewing and today is no easy feat, but I hope this Rye Not from Long Beach Beer Lab. beer sticks around and finds a niche. Coincidentally both beers hailed from the Long Beach area and both Rye Not is a collaboration between the husband-and-wife/brewer-and-baker

King Carrot and sky Photo Credit: John Verive Beer Paper | JULY 2018 PAGE 17 media for the announcements of bottle releases, pop-up shops and for news that their Single Barrel Syndicate is opening for new members. Cellador is planning to open their North Hills tasting room in late-2018. Apart from young breweries cutting new paths through old traditions, there was one other innovation on display at the fest, and it looks like beer’s next trend. At least five breweries were pouring their interpretation of a wholly new style: the Brut IPA. These ultra- dry and intensely aromatic brews are hoppy counter-programing to all those juicy IPAs on offer, and we should see many more examples made around town this summer as brewers begin to experiment with the new technique. There’s still much innovation and excitement to be found in the current L.A. Beer Week kickoff crowd Photo Credit: John Verive climate, you just have to look beyond all the haze. “To get enough sugar to properly base at the center of a flavor profile carbonate the beer, we used 200lbs of underpinned with a subtle earthiness John Verive is a Southern California carrots for less than one barrel of beer and coriander-like spice. The carrot native and freelance writer dedicated (a ridiculous 4:1 fruiting ratio). We flavor is there, but it is impossibly well to growing the craft beer scene in Los yielded roughly 15 gallons of juice, integrated. Admittedly, I’ve only been Angeles. He’s is a Certified Cicerone®, which we added to 45 gallons of beer. lucky enough to drink two glasses of the founder of Beer of Tomorrow So, The Carrot King is about 25% this distinctive creation, but I think it’s (www.BeerofTomorrow.com), and juice and 75% beer by volume.” a triumph of avant-garde brewing — I he covers the beer-beat for the Los cannot stop thinking about it! Don’t Angeles Times. Find him on Twitter King Carrot was love at first sip with sleep on Cellador Ales: watch social and Instagram at @octopushat and Kevin Osborne pouring KC at brewery the oaky and phenolic lambic-like @beeroftomorrow. Photo Credit: John Verive PAGE 18 JULY 2018 | Beer Paper

TOPA TOPA QUALITY, CRAFTSMANSHIP & COMMUNITY SPIRIT by Erin Peters Topa Topa Brewing Company community and our local nonprofits. success of the company. I can’t speak to give them a great experience every celebrated three years on June 9th. We came to market really knowing highly enough of my business partners. time they have one of our beers. We I spoke with owner and co-founder, who we are and what we’d like to We’ve built a nice kind of family want them to feel at home and give Jack Dyer about their rapid growth and brew, as well as who we want to be. culture. Casey handles pretty much the them a space where they can come and success. entirety of the beer program. engage with their community. We have three core values that we EP: So tell me about turning three follow to make every decision. We pride ourselves on not being I like to think that our hardcore years old. They’re quality, craftsmanship and trendy. We make beers that we like to customers and partners don’t just community spirit. We try to instill that drink and that we think our customers like us, they love us. We love them JD: It’s been a very humbling and fun in everything that we do from the tap will enjoy. That’s always been a focus right back. I think they value our three years. I think for us, just turning room to making beer to the projects for us. consistency and that we always put three and being able to grow with the and nonprofits that we support. We out a high quality product. We don’t community, both with the craft beer have grown our company from three The craft market growth is crazy. run out of our flagship beers. We have employees to 35. There’s so much great local fresh beer great regulars. That’s been a fun thing available now. We try to capitalize on that – quite frankly – I didn’t expect to EP: Besides yourself, who are the that with our Chief Peak IPA. We sell have as many regulars. They’re part of other founders, and how do you guys it as fresh as humanly possible. the Topa family as well. deal with beer trends? EP: What do you think your hardcore EP: What’s been the most surprising JD: There’s three founders. It’s myself, Topa Topa fans who’ve been there thing in the past three years? Kyle Thompson and Casey Harris, since the beginning would say about who’s our head brewer. He also is an you guys? JD: Just been the pace at which we’ve owner in the company, which Kyle been able to grow. We wrote the JD: We really appreciate our customers Good Vibes. Great Beer. and I think is important. We want him business plan based on a set pace that and we try and take the time and effort Photo Credit: Dylan Gordon – Casey – invested financially in the we thought we’d be able to sell beer Beer Paper | JUNE 2018 PAGE 19 and grow our tasting room model. But the fact that we’re working on our third location and that we’re close to 5,000 barrels of production is pretty wild. That was like year seven, eight, nine of our business plan and here we are in year three. And to see the overall growth of Ventura County and Santa Barbara County and craft beer in general. It’s wonderful. EP: What do you guys have going on in July? JD: We just dropped a collaboration beer with our friends at El Segundo Brewing Company. We love those guys. It’s called Hat’s Off. We already launched the beer in L.A., but it’s now hitting stores in the area. We’re planning a fun event at Fluid State. El Segundo’s committed to a dollar of every beer going to two different nonprofits that help Thomas fire recovery efforts. Otherwise, we’re working hard, keeping our tasting rooms busy. We have two construction projects going on right now. We’re building a larger production facility. Historic Old Towne Orange EP: Goals for the next three years? Rare opportunity to lease one of the historic JD: We are adding a couple more taprooms. The buildings in the Downtown Plaza. Up to Ojai one should be open by late summer. We’re 7960 sq ft of restaurant or retail availability in partnering with a really great food provider in the the Orange Circle. Walking distance to Chapman region as well. And the production facility is going University. to enable us to make beer to satisfy our network of draft accounts and also we’re finally going to be able to get into the traditional packaging. We hope to have packaging by sometime before the end of the year. We make a lot of great beers, but a lot of people just know us for Chief Peak. EP: Speaking of Chief Peak, congratulations on the Casa Pacifica win. Grange Hall 39 | Buena Park Mall JD: That was a fun win. We don’t really measure Artisan culinary collection located next to ourselves by medals. But it’s always fun to be voted Krikorian Theatre. This mix of unique food in by your peers. Casey and our team did a great job vendors in a food-hallsetting is projected to with that recipe. It’s always so freaking fresh. open in Fall, 2018. On-site beer/wine sales and consumption. Operating hours from 7am-4am. EP: What are your thoughts on the county now and how it’s grown versus three or five years ago? JD: It’s pretty amazing. I was just talking about this last night with Jason, the head brewer at Allagash. The landscape, the diversity, and the styles of beer in our region is really fun to see. I think that’s the most compelling part is that whether you’re a nano brewer, big production, distribution – all these business models are working. I find myself talking about the guys at Enegren a UC Riverside Restaurant lot because I love that they’re focusing on these Perfect location on one of Riverisde’s major German, real clean beer styles. [You have] the guys thoroughfares, University Ave. Situated below at Casa Agria and their sour program. student aparments and right down the street I think that no longer is Ventura County a skip over from UC Riverside. Strong day and night traffic. spot. There’s incredible diversity right here. Ample parking and easy access to 91 and 215 freeways.f Erin Peters is uniquely poised to cover the local beer scene, having lived in seven So Cal cities 714.446.0600 including San Diego and Los Angeles. Now home in www.SVNVanguard.com Ventura County, follow her at thebeergoddess.com @TheBeerGoddess on Twitter. BRE# 01840569 SALES | LEASING | MANAGEMENT All SVN® Offices Independently Owned and Operated ®

Our Awards Are Stacking Up This year, Garage Brewing Co received impressive results: six of our beers were awarded medals as well as a seventh beer receiving an honorable mention in the 2018 LA International Beer Competition. And, if that wasn’t enough, another six medals at the 2018 NorCal Brew Competition. Our beer is available in at least 1,000 locations in draft at select restaurants/sports bars and also in bottles/cans at grocery/liquor outlets throughout Southern California.

2017

www.garagebrewco.com

PAGE 22 JULY 2018 | Beer Paper

LADYBEER SOCAL CERVECEROS One of the Most Important Homebrew Clubs in the World by Sarah Bennett

Memo Paramount made his first beer A sample of what craft beer culture using two plastic buckets, a tamal pot looks like when it’s made by and for and a few serving spoons. Now, the the largest Latino population in the homebrew equipment at Paramount’s country was on display this May at San Fernando home includes an ColdChela, SoCal Cerveceros’ annual upgraded system, multiple fridges and charity beer fest (“chela” is slang for about a dozen soda kegs in which to beer in Spanish). Held at a nonprofit store experimental beers like Playa space in East L.A., the event featured Linda, an easy drinker made with the familiar parking-lot lineup of tents Mexican lager yeast, Scottish malt and and jockey boxes, each pouring a New Zealand hops. brew crew’s latest Belgian-style wit, hazy IPA, bourbon barrel-aged stout “Before, I was brewing four to five or, yes, glitter beer. But there were times a year,” Paramount says of his also Spanish-named hibiscus ales and homebrewing years before he teamed tropical fruit IPAs and porters infused up with his friend Erasmo Pocasangre with Guatemalan coffee. and joined SoCal Cerveceros, the largest (if not the only) Latino Luis Martinez of Preston Brewing, homebrew club in the nation. “This who by day is an assistant brewer year, I’ve already brewed nine times so at Belmont Brewing Company, put far. These guys don’t let you sleep.” pounds of Abuelita chocolate in a David Garcia of Big Boys Brewing shows off his brew crew’s swag at ColdChela, Randall. Zaneta Santana, who brews SoCal Cerveceros’ annual charity beer fest Paramount, who has degrees in both with South Central Brewing Company Photo Credit: Luis Montoya biology and law, is Honduran and and is the manager of Angel City Cerveceros is not exclusively Latino,” collaborate with local breweries, Mexican, while Erasmo Pocasangre Brewery’s Arts District taproom, is Guatemalan and Salvadoran; both says club president Ray Ricky Rivera which Brewjeria has done with Dry served black-bean burgers at her of Norwalk Brew House. “We can’t River, Border X and, most recently, are L.A. natives. Together they are Zaneta’s Vegan Kitchen tent. Founding West 11th Brewing, one of SoCal be. Obviously, we are predominantly Sanctum. The group is also starting SoCal Cerveceros crew Brewjeria Latino, but we’re more like a to pour at more events. For the first Cerveceros’ 20-plus brew crews, brought a more refined version of their many of which joined the club only microcosm of L.A., if you will. I’d say time ever, SoCal Cerveceros members 2017 fest favorite, a Duvel-inspired our goal is to bridge the gap for people represented the club at the Southern in the last year after discovering tripel with muscat grapes called that a group hoping to increasing of color within the craft beer industry California Homebrewers Fest, which Grapes of Wrath. Chulita Vinyl Club’s at the homebrew level.” took place in Temecula the weekend diversity in craft beer even existed. DJ Bien Buena spun everything from Because despite L.A.’s historic reign before ColdChela in May. Though cumbia to rock en español before two In addition to getting jobs in the there were several other new L.A. of homebrew clubs (Maltose Falcons local bands performed. And inside, industry, hosting public events and is the oldest in the country) and the clubs showcasing for the first time, Daniel Moreno of D.A.M. Brewing donning “Brown People Love Beer” a tent with all Latino homebrewers region’s longtime majority minority was busy expertly proctoring the club’s shirts as daily attire (cop one at demographics, homebrewing is still a was a definite first for the fest. Rivera first ever homebrew competition, dopeanddank.com), one way that the estimates that out of the 1500 people hobby that continues to be represented replete with blind tastings, BJCP score club has been bridging the gap is by by predominantly white men. there, less than 20 appeared to be cards, and a rigid point system on par having more experienced brew crews Latino. The fact that the event fell “I was really against [homebrew] with professional-grade comps [full clubs for so long,” Paramount says. disclosure: the author was a judge -- “It’s not a negative against any that Brewjeria’s excellent tripel took first are out there, but it’s nice to be able to place]. be ourselves with like-minded people Compared to last year’s event, this who not only know where we’ve been, year’s was more than twice as big, with but who we are too.” Paramount isn’t 350 attendees and more than 50 beers alone. SoCal Cerveceros is the fastest and ciders. It also reflected the most growing homebrew club in the region, diverse SoCal Cerveceros membership with more than 30 new members in the pool yet, with encouraging numbers last year alone, turning what started of female (Maltitude!) and black as a group of six friends critiquing (Warcloud!) homebrewers entering the each other’s beers in a South Los inclusive fray. Angeles backyard three years ago into a powerful force in the conversation on “Even though we’re known for being a diversity in craft beer. Latino-focused homebrew club, SoCal Beer Paper | JULY 2018 PAGE 23 on Cinco de Mayo also meant they locally roasted coffee beans and encountered a contingent of drunk “yo no less than two beers with Selena care-o beer-o” types (one SCC member references (both saisons, both named said “Cinco de Mayo had some of after the song “Como La Flor,” both these dudes feeling pretty brave”). delicious). Hub City Brewers poured a hoppy sage saison made with herbs “We as a club respect the work and foraged by Dry River brewmaster people behind the CHA and it’s Naga Reshi. Brewjeria excitedly talked unfortunate to hear these things about the progress being made on their are still happening in craft beer in production brewery, which will soon 2018,” Rivera says. “However, it was open in Pico Rivera. important for us to be there to show our support and love for the homebrew At his Norwalk Brew House booth, community. That, and to represent the club president Rivera filled a taster underrepresented.” Representation glass with his homebrewed mandarina seemed much easier to find over this bavaria S.M.A.S.H. and handed it to a L.A. Beer Week than in years past, young couple on the other side of the starting with a kickoff fest filled with jockey box. Seeing their wide eyes bright green Mexico soccer jerseys as they tried to take in all the options (take that Germany!), a Women in at the fest, he took the opportunity to Beer panel stacked almost exclusively open another door, to bridge another with Latinas, a Dope and Dank hip gap -- and possibly to plant the seeds hop show with Lord Hobo Brewing on for the next generation of SoCal the taps and ending with a big SoCal Cerveceros. “Are you familiar with Cerveceros showing at the first ever this style?” craft beer fest at the Museum of Latin American Art in Long Beach. Sarah Bennett is a freelance journalist covering beer, food, music and more Six SCC brew crews held down the for L.A. Times, OC Weekly, Eater, Beer fest’s midway in the center of the Advocate and more. She was named museum’s sculpture garden on a the Food/Culture critic of 2017 by the Starwood Brewing’s Robert and Joseph Calderon Photo Credit: Luis Montoya warm Sunday afternoon, doling out L.A. Press Club. Follow her on social conversational education as they media @thesarahbennett. poured hazy IPAs, stouts made with 160 YEARS AGO THIS MONTH… Believe it or not, beer was literally most assuredly steam beers. front-page news in Los Angeles over a century and a half ago. On It seems appropriate that 160 the first page of LA’s very first years later things have come full newspaper, the weekly Los Angeles circle in a way, with local craft Star (previously La Estrella de Los brewers turning to making lagers, Angeles), on July 10, 1858, the and Firestone Walker’s Propagator accompanying poem, “Lager Bier: brewpub in Venice hosting an A Moral Lesson,” appeared, picked international Pils & Love festival up from the Boston Post. on July 28. It extolls the “virtues” of lager - Tomm Carroll beer, which was sweeping the nation during that period, including Los Angeles, thanks to the influx of German immigrants (many of whom were brewers) and the recent birth in 1842 of the popular Pilsner style of lager in Bohemia (now the Czech Republic). At the time, LA had at least two commercial breweries: the New York Brewery (established 1854 at Third and Main Streets) and Gambrinus Brewery (established 1856 at First and Los Angeles Streets). Both boasted in advertisements of their “fine” and “most brilliant” lager beer, although 15 Taps | Food | Cans and Growlers given the warm climes of Southern M-T: 4pm to 10pm | F-S: 12pm to 10pm | S: 12pm to 8pm California — and the fact that 156 W. Verdugo Ave. Burbank CA, 91502 commercial refrigeration was still verdugowestbrewing.com at least 25 years away — they were Clipping Courtesy USC Digital Library