THE AMERICAN WINE SOCIETY FALL 2013 Sideways in SANTA BARBARA AWS Conference GOES ON SAFARI Award Winning Winemaker FILLS A NEED AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2013 | 1 NOVEMBER 7 - 9 Kalahari Resort & Convention Center in Sandusky, Ohio! Room Rate: $129.00 + tax, Single or Double Occupancy Each room includes: • Two Queen beds, full bath, work desk & chairs • Patio/balcony with furniture • 32 inch flat screen TV • Microwave, Mini-refrigerator, Coffee Pot, Iron & Hair Dryer • In-room safe • Complimentary parking • Complimentary Wi-Fi throughout the hotel • Fitness Center • Business Center A credit card will be needed to make your reservation and there is a one night, non-refundable deposit required. To make your reservation, call the Questions? Contact the AWS National Office, 888.297.9070 or hotel directly at 877.525.2427 Ask for the American Wine Society room block [email protected] (ID #17416) to make reservations at the group rate. Make your conference and room reservations now! 2 | WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2013 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG features 4 | Jim Rink 15 | Mike Botwin Editor’s Message Hybrids in the 21st Century Time flies when you’re having sun. The The term “hybrid” (more explicitly “in- days are getting shorter and the grapes terspecies hybrid”) refers to a new are getting ripe and ready for harvest. grape variety formed from the cross As Galileo said, “The sun, with all those pollination of two different species of planets revolving around it and depen- grapes (Genus: Vitis). The dominant 6 dent on it, can still ripen a bunch of worldwide wine producing species is grapes as if it had nothing else in the the Eurasian Vitis vinifera. However, universe to do.” Well, like cutting fire- there are well over 40 other species wood, the sun warms us twice -- first of Vitis throughout the world, split be- firmly on the face and again when we tween North America and Eastern Asia sample the fruit of the vine, literally liq- (there are no indigenous Vitis species in uid sunshine. the southern hemisphere). 6 | George Medovoy 18 | Jim Rink Sideways in Santa Barbara New or Noteworthy This magical city north of sprawling Los How do you safely get bottles of aged Angeles slopes picturesquely down to Italian wine or gourmet beer back home palm-lined beaches from hillsides dot- after an overseas vacation? Not rolled ted with fancy homes. It’s a magnificent up in a hotel towel but in an inflatable 10 tapestry visible as you make your way VinniBag. Liquids, fine collectible items, along Highway 101, the link between and any fragile valuables that an elite Southern and Northern California. traveler wants to protect will be safe in a reusable VinniBag in carry-on’s or 10 | Jane Duralia checked luggage. Guest Chef Peter Cisek As a kid, around the age of 8-10, I was 19 | Jane Duralia fascinated watching Julia Child on TV,” Award Winning Wine Peter Cisek said. “Food preparation was Maker Fills a Need not one of my mother’s favorite tasks, so I would try to create some of Julia’s I met Brian and Debbie Booth at the recipes myself.” Some turned out quite hotel registration desk, at the AWS well, which only strengthened his fasci- National 2010 Conference in Cincin- nati. Nothing really unusual except they nation with food. were headed to the Poconos to cel- 12 ebrate their 24th wedding anniversary 12 | Jane Duralia and, while en route, decided they would AWS Conference Goes on Safari come to the wine conference. Sandusky is one of the best kept 21 | Wayne Stitzer secrets in Ohio. Its small town at- The Temperatures of Wine mosphere, with friendly, unassum- ing people, is both refreshing and Sounds like a bit of an enigma; wine has misleading. Famous residents have temperatures? As wine drinkers we are included Miss America 1963 (Jackie all aware of the importance of storage Mayer), former chief justice of the and serving temperatures and how that Ohio Supreme Court, Thomas J. affects flavors and aromas, but tempera- Moyer, and Jon Gruden, former head ture also plays a major role in the produc- coach of the Oakland Raiders and the tion of wine, from the arrival of grapes at Tampa Bay Buccaneers. 19 harvest until the final bottling at the end of production, making the thermometer a necessary winemaking tool. 24 | Ellen Landis, CS, CSW 21 Wines to Watch In her continuing column, Ellen Landis selects 21 wines for you to enjoy with any occasion or celebration. 21 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2013 | 3 editor’sLETTER JIM RINK VOLUME 45 NO. 2 · FALL 2013 Published by Time flies when you’re having sun. The days are getting shorter and the grapes The American Wine Society, a non-profit corporation, are getting ripe and ready for harvest. As Galileo said, “The sun, with all those PO Box 279, Englewood, OH 45322 planets revolving around it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes Single copies $5.00 as if it had nothing else in the universe to do.” Well, like cutting firewood, the sun warms us twice -- first firmly on the face and again when we sample the fruit of Copyright © 2013 by AWS, Inc. Reproduction or use of the editorial the vine, literally liquid sunshine. or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Given the warmth of the sun, it is fitting that we address the issue of tempera- Library of Congress Class Number: ture in this issue (and its effect on wine). Our own “in-house” wine consultant TP544 A46A3 LC Card 76-647900 Wayne Stitzer talks about how temperature affects the winemaking process be- Publisher fore, during and after fermentation. Not just the ambient temperature, but the John Hames temperature of the juice, the wine and the yeast, which can vary dramatically. Editor Jim Rink On the travel front, longtime contributor George Medovoy recently returned from Contributing Writers a trip to Santa Barbara, where he visited Kalyra Winery, featured in the 2004 Jim Rink, Jane Duralia, Wayne Stitzer, Mike Botwin, movie Sideways. George provides a comprehensive summary of what to see George Medovoy, and do in the region. Ellen Landis, CS, CSW Ellen Landis continues her regular column, “21 Wines to Watch,” focusing this Editorial Office BECOME A time on primarily California, with one or two Chilean and New Zealand wines Jim Rink 2800 S. Lake Leelanau Drive thrown in for good measure. Among her new discoveries is a Viña Ventisquero Lake Leelanau, MI 49653 Reserve 2011 Carmenere from Colchagua Valley, Chile. Wine prices in this is- [email protected] sue’s collection range from $11 to $70. Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless Contributor Mike Botwin, San Luis Obispo AWS chapter director, has graciously accompanied by return postage. provided an exhaustive (but not exhausting) look at Hybrids in the 21st Century Advertising Office and AWS President Jane Duralia continues our Guest Chef series, featuring an PO Box 279 Englewood, OH 45322 interview with conference regular Peter Cisek. Speaking of the conference, you 888-AWS-9070 won’t want to miss this year’s extravaganza at Kalahari Resort in Sandusky, Ohio. (fax) 937.529.7888 Jane offers a preview in these pages. executivedirector@ americanwinesociety.org Stay thirsty, Creative | Production 404.925.2677 [email protected] porterdesign.com 4 | WINE JOURNAL : FALL : 2013 AMERICANWINESOCIETY.ORG Founder The AWS is the largest consumer based wine education organization in the U.S. A non-profit Konstantin Frank group, the AWS is devoted to educating people on all aspects of wine. Its members include AWS National Officers and Board of Directors wine novices, experts, grape growers, amateur and professional winemakers, chefs, wine President Treasurer Director of appreciators, wine educators, restaurateurs and anyone wanting to learn more about wine. Jane Duralia Walt Rachele Member Services David Falchek Vice President Director of AWS ACTIVITIES Educational Services Executive Director Secretary Peter J. Cisek John Hames AWS Chapters: Local community groups of AWS members sponsor programs, usually Joe Broski Director of Competitions monthly. Activities include: tastings, dinners, lectures, picnics, winery tours, winemaking and Lynne Montgomery cooking demonstrations, viticulture conferences, amateur wine-judging events, and other Past Presidents wine-related social events. Guests are welcome and novices have nothing to fear. Chapters 1967–70 1991 2002 are self-supporting, so expect a nominal charge to attend a tasting, dinner, etc. If a local Albert W. Laubengayer Stephen R. Kampers William H. Eisberg 1971–72 1992 2003 chapter does not exist in your area, the national office will be glad to assist in forming a Robert A. Dickmann J. Randy Hurteau Frank C. Aquilino chapter. All that is needed are a few interested wine lovers. Meeting can be informal and 1973–74 1993 2004 held in member’ homes or in other settings, such as restaurants and wineries. Carl W. Damoth Alcide L. Porrell Willis L. Parker 1975–76 1994 2005 AWS Regional Events: Organized by regional vice-presidents, include statewide wine Jerry S. Miller George E. Wilson Tom Castronovo 1977–78 1995 2006 judging, contests, special tastings, regional wine conferences, regional picnics and dinners. Kathryn Froelich Kenneth P. Brewer Janice Cobett 1979–1980 1996 2007 AWS National Conference: Held each fall—a two and one-half day national conference and Joseph P. Nardone Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. Albert L. Guber, Jr. extravaganza of wine. Attendees become part of a tradition that has drawn wine-lovers, 1981–1982 1997 2008 winemakers and gastronomes together every November for over 45 years. Prominent John M. Hasson Eugene J. Spaziani Raymond A. Hartung, Jr. American and international speakers conduct seminars and lectures on all aspects of wine 1983–1984 1998 2009 Michael A.