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A Vacation Tour in the United States and Canada. by Charles Richard Weld

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A Vacation Tour in the United States and Canada. by Charles Richard Weld Library of Congress A vacation tour in the United States and Canada. By Charles Richard Weld ... 5019-J PART OF THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA, Showing the Author's Route. TO MY BROTHER, ISAAC WELD, ESQ., VICE-PRESIDENT OF THE ROYAL DUBLIN SOCIETY, M.R.I.A. ETC. ETC. THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Reasons for visiting North America.—Travelling Plans.—Ocean Steamers. —The America.—Fellow Passengers.—Al-Fresco Concerts.—Bishop of Boston.—Boat Accommodation.—Ocean Currents.—Winds.—Red Fogs.—Sea-weed Meadows.—Ocean Floor.—Deep Sea Soundings.—Bank Weather.—Halifax.—Run on Shore.—Humming Birds.—Newfoundland Dogs.—Fish Trade.—American Peculiarities.—Boston Harbour.— Saline Tea-pot.—Bunker Hill Monument.—Picturesque Shipping.—Arrival at Boston. Page 1 CHAP. I. Curious Vehicles.—Custom House.—Revere Hotel.—Breakfast.—Contrast between American and English Hotels.—Rapid Washing.—Old Boston.—State House. —Commerce.—Faneuil Hall.—Fresh Pond.—Ice Crop and Ice Trade.—Agriculture near Boston.—Value of Land.—Wages.—Al-Fresco Tea.—Fire-flies.—Nahant.—Steamboat.— Life Preservers.—Accidents.—Visit to Mr. Longfellow.—Professor Agassiz.—Geology of Nahant.—Salem.—Manufacture of Boots and Shoes.—Sea Coast.—Visit to Mr. Prescott. —Nahant House.—The Flirtation Galleries.—Bathing.— A 3 vi Laura Bridgman.—Lowell. —The “Young Ladies.”—Manufactures.—Lawrence.—Mount Auburn.—Piano Factory. —Schools.—New Theatre.—City Library.—Excitement respecting Slavery.—Quincy's Speech.—The “Know-nothing” Movement Page 29 A vacation tour in the United States and Canada. By Charles Richard Weld ... http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.02718 Library of Congress CHAP. III. Leave Boston.—Railway Cars.—Cow-catcher.—Locomotives.—Watering the Passengers.—Precocious Travelling Companion.—Troy.—Saratoga.—Congress Spring. —Amusements.—Dinner.—Black Waiters.—Promenade.—Ball.—Ladies' Dresses.— Monroe.—Plank Road.—Lake George.—Squirrel Hunt.—Rattlesnakes.—Basse Fishing. —Beautiful Scenery.—Last of the Mohicans.—Ticonderoga.—Fort.—Smoke Fog.— Forests on Fire.—Lake Champlain.—Awful Darkness.—Difficult Navigation.—Rouse's Point.—Tremendous Fires.—Railway Drive through the Burning Forests.—Ogdensburg. —A Friend in Difficulties.—Cross the St. Lawrence.—Prescott.—Canadian Voyageurs.— Story of a Raft.—Leave Prescott.—Kingston.—Fort Henry.—Lake Ontario.—Coburg.— Butter Merchant.—Leave for Peterborough.—Houseless Town.—The Otonabee.—Arrive at Peterborough Page 64 CHAP. IV. Peterborough.—Growth of Canadian Towns.—Excursion to the Backwoods. —Bad Roads.—Saw-mills.—Lumber Trade.—Capabilities of American Forests.—Douro. —Major Strickland.—Lakefield.—Agricultural Pupils.—Clearing Land.—Value of Land. —Logging.—Life in the Bush.—Deer Hunt.—The Forest.—Duck Shooting.—Fishing. —Clear Lake.— vii Excursion to Indian Lodge—Maskinonge.—Indians.—Picturesque Encampment.—Bark Canoes.—Petition of Ojibeways.—Return to Peterborough Page 98 CHAP. V. Journey to Coburg.—Rough Travelling.—The Thousand Islands.—Canadian Farms.—Rafts.—Rapids.—Descent of the Cedars.—Excitement.—Anecdote of Moore's Canadian Boat-Song.—Village of the Rapids.—La Claire Fontaine.—Canadian Singing.— La Chine Rapid.—Indian Pilot.—Montreal.—Independence.—Hochelaga.—Cathedral.— Superstition.—Artillery Barracks.—Geological Museum.—Victoria Bridge.—Farms of the “Habitans.”—Seignorial Rights.—Importance of Montreal Page 119 CHAP. VI. Voyage to Quebec.—Heights of Abraham.—Calèche.—Bad Hotels.— Fortifications.—Magnificent View.—Wolfe's Monument.—Gray's Elegy.—Opening of Parliament.—Lord Elgin.—Political Battles.—French Speeches.—Election of Speaker. —Place hunting.—Jobbing.—Gathering of Members.—Lower Town.—Intemperance. A vacation tour in the United States and Canada. By Charles Richard Weld ... http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.02718 Library of Congress —Historical Society.—Departure of the Military.—Canadian Beauties.—Falls of Montmorenci.—Spencer Wood.—Garrison Mess.—Leave Quebec.—Emigrants.—Arrive at Toronto. Page 134 CHAP. VII. Toronto.—Cathedral.—Public Buildings.—Shipping.—Prosperity.—Wages.— Price of Provisions.—Fugitive Slaves.—Education.—Environs.—Observatory.—Geological Formation.— viii Society.—Leave for Lewiston.—Lake Steamer.—High Waves.—The Niagara.—Suspension Bridge.—Queenston.—Fine View.—Drive to Clifton House.—Voice of the Falls.—The first View.—Table Rock.—Influence of the Scene.—The Two Cataracts. —Vibration of the Hotel.—Grandeur of Morning Mists.—Rapids.—Burning Spring.—Iris Island.—Terrapin Tower.—Gulls.—Exquisite Colour of Water.—Rainbows.—Manchester. —Spirit of the Falls.—Tradition.—Catastrophe.—Power of the Water.—Maid of the Mist. —Termination Rock.—Water Curtain.—Whirlpool.—Sunrise Effect on the Mist-Cloud.— Leave for Buffalo.—Last View of the Falls.—Fort Chippewa.—Lake Erie. Page 152 CHAP. VIII. Buffalo.—Gigantic Steamboat.—Bridal Chambers.—Lake Erie.—Wooded Islands.—Water-Snakes.—Detroit.—New France.—Vineyards.—Dawn.—New Buffalo.— Lake Michigan.—Chicago.—Its rapid Growth.—Value of Land.—Commerce.—Prairies. —Fugitive Slaves.—Popular Excitement.—Emigrants.—Cincinnati.—Tobacco-chewing. —Burnet House.—Former Hotels.—Rapid Changes.—Commercial Statistics.—Land Settlements.—Furniture Factories.—Railways.—Tour of the Globe.—Germans.—Porcine Population.—Their Habits and Peculiarities.—Pork Crop.—Acreage of Pigs.—Porkopolis. —Observatory.—Catawba Grapes.—Champagne Manufactory.—Mr. Longworth.—Hiram Powers.—His first Work.—National Theatre.—Fire.—Steam Fire-Engine.—Police Court. —“Know-nothings.”—Coinage.—Counterfeit Notes.—Kentucky.—Spring Grove Cemetery. —Narrow Escape.—Thunderstorm.—Leave Cincinnati. Page 181 ix CHAP. IX. Columbus.—Uncivil Landlord.—Zanesville.—Ohio Coal-Field.—Cambridge. —Doubling-up.—Ohio Farms.—Village Literature.—Stage-Coach.—Indian Corn.— A vacation tour in the United States and Canada. By Charles Richard Weld ... http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.02718 Library of Congress Wheat Crop.—Maple Trees.—Wild Vines.—Independent Drivers.—Orchard-robbing.— Morristown.—Negress Fanners.—Beautiful Scenery.—Telegraph.—Wheeling.—Wire Bridge.—Railway to Cumberland.—Cross the Alleghanies.—Stupendous Engineering. —Camel-Engines.—Magnificent Forests.—Precipices.—Train off the Line.—Midnight Arrival.—Cumberland.—Church Bells.—Ramble in Forest.—Coal-Field.—Rattlesnakes.— Irregularity of Train.—Messenger-Train.—Frightful Speed.—Recklessness of Conductor. —Accident.—Narrow Escape.—Impromptu Pic-Nic.—The Potomac.—Insecure State of Rails.—Long Detention.—Harper's Ferry.—Relay House.—Arrive at Washington Page 224 CHAP. X. The Marble House.—Interview with Editor of Star Newspaper.—Press Morality. —The Capitol.—Rome.—Political Situation of Washington.—Houses of Legislature.— The Bald Eagle.—Plague of Ants.—Patent Office.—Museum.—Tanned Negro Skin.— Franklin's Printing Press.—Hair of Presidents.—State-Paper Office.—Observatory.—Coast Survey.—Instruments.—Smithsonian Institution.—Gutta-Percha Stereotype Printing.— The President.—Courteous Reception.—Republican Servants.—Visit to Mount Vernon. —Alexandria.—Fort Washington.—Washington's Tomb.—Disgraceful Condition of Mount Vernon.—Dinner Party.—Meeting of Know-nothings.—Washington and Secret Societies. —National Monument.—Slaves.—Negro Ball.—Leave Washington Page 254 x CHAP. XI. Steam down the Potomac.—Lose Luggage.—Acquia Creek.—Arrive at Richmond.—Slavery.—Armoury.—Virginian State Guard.—Jefferson's Cannon.— Gorgeous Sunset.—Recover Luggage.—African Church.—Excellent Singing.—Dress of Negresses.—Adult Baptism of Slaves.—Slave-Market.—Mode of selling Slaves.— Quadroon.—Beautiful Children.—Slave Advertisements.—Reflections on Slavery.— Deportation of Slaves.—Tobacco Factory.—Incendiarism.—Slave Labour.—Cotton Factories.—White Labour.—Rendition of Fugitive Slaves.—Pauperism.—Capitol.— Houdon's Statue of Washington.—State Penitentiary.—Theatre.—Richmond Hotels, past and present.—Leave Richmond Page 286 A vacation tour in the United States and Canada. By Charles Richard Weld ... http://www.loc.gov/resource/lhbtn.02718 Library of Congress CHAP. XII. James River.—Early English Colonists.—Captain Smith.—Dismal Morning.— Planters' Houses.—Picturesque Scenery.—Agriculture.—Hampton Roads, Norfolk.—Navy Yard.—Gosport.—Crowded Steamer.—Leave for Baltimore.—Steam up Chesapeake. —Dreadful Night.—Baltimore.—Hotel Accommodation.—Exhibition.—Manufactures. —Agricultural State Fair.—Beautiful Women.—Fine City.—Leave for Philadelphia.— Scramble for Supper.—Rude Behaviour.—Philadelphia.—The Girard House.—Public Schools.—State Penitentiary.—Girard College.—Judge Kane.—Philosophical Society.— Franklin Institute.—Academy of Natural Sciences.—Fine Collections.—State-House.— Tame Squirrels.—Mint.—Water-Works.—Fire Companies.—Franklin's Tomb.—Leave for New York Page 326 xi CHAP. XIII. The Saint Nicholas Hotel.—Conduct of its Guests.—Trial of Dr. Graham. —Delmonico's Hotel.—How to see New York.—The Hudson.—Great Hospitality.—Mr. Grinnell.—Commercial Quarter of New York.—Its physical Peculiarities.—Broadway.— Fashion.—Splendid Mansions.—Republican Luxury.—Aristocratic Desires.—Order of the Cincinnati.—Love for Titles.—Franklin's Coat of Arms.—Jefferson's Prediction.—Crystal Palace.—Barnum's Speech.—Railway Omnibuses.—Croton Reservoir.—Astor Library. —New Opera House.—Grisi and Mario.—New York Criticism.—Metropolitan Theatre.— Christy's Minstrels.—Supper Rooms.—Deference paid to Ladies.—Bar-Rooms.—Electric Telegraph.—Volunteer and Militia Corps.—Recruiting Service.—Pay of Army.—Navy. —Emigrants.—American Party Manifesto.—Staten Island.—Farewell Impressions.— Journey to Boston.—Mr.
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