EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN 397 Antakya Adana © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Skenderun

EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN 397 Antakya Adana © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © skenderun. However, skenderun. However, İ Kîzkalesi Heaven Chasm of zkalesi. Visiting Turks – and Western – and Western zkalesi. Turks Visiting ı Side

Maiden’s Maiden’s ( p436 ) (tea) and a a and (tea) Antakya ( p427 ), the çay Temple of Apollo Temple zkalesi ( p421 ), where the the ), where p421 ( ı with a künefe Merkez Cami Merkez ı ( p422 ) at K p422 ( ( p399 ) at sunset country’s second-largest mosque country’s second-largest Chasm of Heaven held Typhon was said to have monster captive Zeus Castle Sabanc piece of chat with the locals in lankale a number of important is also close, as are and Christian sites. Hittite ı into the massive Descend the 452 steps ride out to Swim or take a ferry Adana’s extravagantly beautiful Visit of an oven-hot Enjoy the first syrupy bite Side’s romantic Visit skenderun, due to the area’s proximity to the Syrian border. Here is one of Turkey’s most is one of Turkey’s Here Syrian border. to the proximity skenderun, due to the area’s

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

İ Once the craggy mountain range flattens out into the wide-open Cukurova Plain to the wide-open out into the range flattens Once the craggy mountain Cukurova The vibe and energy of the Eastern Mediterranean takes on a considerable change south Mediterranean of the Eastern vibe and energy The those who do choose to brave the urban hustle are rewarded with rarely visited nearby sites, nearby sites, visited with rarely rewarded the urban hustle are those who do choose to brave such as the Roman fortress Armenian retreat city of Anazarbus, just northeast The of Adana. of Y archaeology students – treat this part treat archaeology students – because of of the country as an open-air museum, about. ruins scattered amount of impressive the massive Tourists are imposing. metropolitan and more more much larger, east, the cities become industrial cities of Merlin, Adana and in the large almost nonexistent Turkey’s Eastern Mediterranean means different things to different people. For holidaying For people. to different things different means Mediterranean Eastern Turkey’s it’s a radiant and razzle-dazzleEuropeans, beach paradise, with the calm ocean and high-rise further Sometimes referred resorts around Side and Alanya stretching than the eye can see. Riviera, an almost unbear- to fill up to this part Med tends of the Eastern to as the Turkish crowds, and you’ll the or after before just during the high season. But arrive able degree for how the Turks feel To get a guesthouses. beaches and discounted empty find largely holiday, make to the through the rugged and twisting mountain range your way themselves of Anamur and K the resorteast and head towards areas Eastern Eastern Mediterranean of fascinating mixes of cultures, religions and languages. In towns such as Antakya you’ll find and languages. religions of cultures, fascinating mixes Sunnis, Alevis and Orthodox Christians living side by side, and spoken Arabic can still be heard on the streets. EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN onised by Aeolians butby onised around 600 BC, ancient Anatolian language. Thesite wascol- it probably means‘pomegranate’ insome No-one knowshowSide gotitsname,though History away. dusk, withwaves crashingjustastone’sthrow you approach theTemple of Apolloaround feeling you’llget inthepitof yourstomach as unforgettable. Soisthealmost indescribable ruins nearly2000years oldflyby, issimply bus, andwatching fromthewindowasRoman name of thegamehere, 24hours aday. assume thatin-your-face isthe capitalism each alleyintersecting andevery it.Youmay thecity’smaindrag,aswell monopolised ingly large numberof souvenir shopshave withavengeance.harvesting Anastound- dustry, fishing, Side hasembracedtourist intrepid travellers love tohate. flash Mediterranean resort townthat many changed, big-time. Sidetodayisthesortof lection of Hellenistic ruins.Butthingshave stretcha passable of beach andadecentcol- village, withlittlemore toboastaboutthan of thought asaworn-outfishingessentially After all,it wasn’tlongagothatSidewas would undoubtedly beamongtheafflicted. tity crisis,thesmall city of Side ( If itwere possible foratowntohave aniden- % 398 S Side (Seleukeia in Isparta (170km) To Antalya(65km); Pamphylia) İ EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN D695 DE Yet theexperienceof entering Sidebycaror Having itsprinciplein- longagodeserted Lyrbe MEDITERRANEAN SEA 0242 /pop18,000 Manavgat EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Side MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN (AKDENÎZ) Alarahan Geriš Alanya Akseki D400 Güzelsu Demirtaš Gündoÿmus Gazipaša To Girne(Cyprus) Köprülü (25km) Hadîm E24 Göktepe Anamurium Taškent see- Anamur Çubukkoyaÿî deh) Ermenek Bozyazî

33-59 Bucakkîšla Göksu To Girne(Cyprus) D400

Gülnar (15km)

settled byMuslimsfromCrete.settled flowering underOttomanrulewhenitwas During thelate 19thcenturyithadabrief town, which wasdeadwithintwocenturies. The 7th-centuryArabraidsdiminished the tines itwasstilllarge torate abishop. enough from legitimate commerce;undertheByzan- control. After that,Sidemanaged toprosper stopped whenthecitycameunderRoman flourished undertheGreeks, onlytobe from theprofits of piracyandslavery, which Greek culture andlanguage. hadabandonedmuch ofthe inhabitants their the time Alexander theGreat sweptthrough, N Mon-Fri) The Information want towalk,orboard thetram(€0.30). and you’llfindthemainroad.Turn leftifyou aeological zone. Followsignsforthetramway the mainbeach isinthenorthof town. the promontoryare smallbeaches, although fronted byabustof Oneithersideof Atatürk. thevillagethrough tothe harbour,which is side thevillage. havealmost certainly thecarparkout- touse controlled;ifyou’reis tightly drivingyou’ll Vehicular highway. east–west coastal access onapromontory,3kmsouthofSide isset the Orientation

33-58 h

r i To Karaman(25km); The otogar (bus station) is east ofThe otogar(busstation) thearch- cutsThe mainstreet, LimanCaddesi, Many of Side’sgreat buildingswere built Aydîncîk D715 Konya (141km) tourist office tourist Mut isabout 800m fromthevillage centre, Ovacîk Uzuncaburç Kîrobasî Silifke Dana Adasî Tašucu

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(€2 perhalf-hour) agora (65km) Kozan To anda (Snake Castle) Uluçînar (Arsuz) h Yîlankale Temples ofApolloandAthena h Samandaÿ Çevlik Vakifliköy EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Side MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN ÎSKENDERUN Îskenderun Ceyhan 9am-7pm) Körfezi 8am-7pm) Hîdîrbey Toprakkale Payas (Yakacîk) 0 0 islocated onNergis Byzantine basilica Kîšlak Sinanlî Internet café Internet Yayladaÿî is a ruin itself; isaruinitself; Kîrîkhan . Builtinthe (Daphne) Harbiye OSMANÎYE ANTAKYA (HATAY) Erzin (Yešilkent) E91 Serinyol (Güvenç) Dörtyol Aktepe Reyhanlî Hassa Baba alHawa SYRIA Fevzipaša Cilvegözü/ (Zambak 30 miles Islahiye 50 km Side In- agora . All , . Pettino’s have doesn’t awholelotgoingfor often congregate aroundasmallfire atnight, intimate outdoorcourtyardwhere travellers from thetheatre, thisexceptionallylaid-back stone-and-timber house offersstone-and-timber house average but just steps from the beach, thistraditional offrom thenoise themaindragbutstill 8;s/d€19/25; .com; SumbulSokak dark. shape rooms,andabeautifulsilence after street plainbutship- fromacarpark.Expect pension isconveniently located across the s&d€19) LaleSokak; yahoo.com; for guests. decent-sized balconies),andfree sun-beds on thebeach, ocean-front rooms(somewith aperfect ently singitspraises: locationright pheric budget hotel inSide. Readers consist- without adoubtthemostrelaxing andatmos- moreand slightly intimate pension,thisis less you’re inasmaller onstaying dead-set -hotel.com; BarbarosCaddesi;s/d€17/36; so bookahead. however, flock here season duringthehigh pension’s dog-eared rooms.Backpackers do forthe couldbesaid shabby mess;thesame it. Thecommonareas are somethingof a 9;s/d€17/23; .com; CamiSokak Side’s ruins. torounduptransportinorderreachneed in ahotel fromtown,you’ll somedistance for awhile. Alsonote thatifyou’re staying place where have theemployees around been Tryto finda this hasoncustomerservice. Youcanprobably guess what effect season. owners, butratherare subletforthetourist not operated andmanaged bytheiractual Many of thehotels andpensionsinSideare Sleeping see p395 . the Romantheatre. Formore information oratthe seum ( Tickets forthe Festivals &Events in Turkey. moving ruinedsites you’re likely toencounter small, it’salsooneof themostromanticand thesite sky.Although isrelativelynight % Y Pettino’s Pansiyon Yükser Pansiyon Beach HouseHotel ı 753 4061) ld ı r ı m Pansiyon can be bought attheSidemu- canbebought ticket office ticket Aspendos Opera&BalletFestivalAspendos

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EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN

EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN 400 sion, this is agoodchoice Turkish forstandard Directly across the street fromPettino’s Pen- €9and€12. should costbetween Aportion ofwith steep pricetags. grilledfish have were thought includedturn outtocome such asvegetables orchips thatyoumight ing attheharbourside restaurants. Things Regulars recommend care taking when order- Eating dine downstairs onthesand. beach. Skip theindoorrestaurant andinstead balconies overlooking apristinestretch of phere, manyroomsboastspacious although block of ahotel isdefinitely lackinginatmos- asp conversation areas andanoutdoorbar. scattered about;there’s also anabundance of here. Romancolumns andstonewalkwaysare largest gardensactsasasortof commonsarea .com; LaleCaddesi17;s/d€30/45; patio andgarden. roomsandaratherlargewell-maintained back 1 3 2 SÎDE Trio’s Restaurant Trio’s Side Hotel LalePark Hotel har...... C2 A3 Theatre...... C2 Temples ofApollo&Athena.... Ruined Library...... C1 D2 Museum...... A3 Byzantine Basilica...... C2 Atatürk Bust...... C2 Agora...... Agora...... D1 B3 Tourist Office...... Side InternetC@fé...... B2 &Bar)...... Internet Café(insideÖmürRestaurant SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Harbour EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Side MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN Side 29 18 ) Withover 80rooms,thisconcrete AC

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12 Lale Cad meals €12) dishes are amongtheofferings atthisother- summer forTurkish folkdancing. Show the throughout upanyFridayevening and American-stylepizza,are alsoavailable. fare. International fastfoods,such asspaghetti köfte it’s alsoa recommended location for grillsand to soakintheharbourside dramaateyelevel, Not onlyisthisanidealspot standby. seafood mere steps fromthewater –atthismeatand meals €15-20) is designedtoresemble a life-size ship. attired inpirate costumes;therestaurant itself here arelooting andpillagingpast,theservers meat menu.Presumably inhomage toSide’s eatery andgrilled offers seafood thestandard Hotel, this House operate theadjacentBeach desi; mealsabout€16) eateries inthearea. that thisisoneof thevery few good-value There’s noharbourview,butlocalscontend andgrilledmeatspot. traditionalseafood wise Beach Small 8 17 16 15 14 13 12

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( www.lonelyplanet.com % 753 1434;LimanCaddesi; 753 1171; Beach Great 753 1059;BarbarosCad- 7 D 3 İ skele Caddesi; skele Manavgat To Oxyd (2.5km); 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 (4km) with equal fervour at this seaside bar. atthisseaside with equalfervour Brit culture andkaraoke are bothcelebrated open-air clubsits justafew metres fromthe rainforest withnot-so-subtlePalaeolithic un- curious placefeels notunlike entering aplastic tion of athemerestaurant, stepping intothis desi 98;meals€15-20) lonelyplanet.com cocktails, a killer light show andpacks of akiller light cocktails, Temples of Apollo andAthena. Expensive party. offerings here, asistheoccasionalbubble andtechnoHouse DJsare amongtheusual discotheque. Bacchanalian to anotherwise here auraof lendamuch-needed elegance ing boatsdocked alongsidetheoutdoorpatio Turkey’s biggest cities. is onparwithsomeof theclubsyou’llfindin ofincluded), thelevel extravagance atOxyd façade andfuturisticinterior (swimmingpool portunities alone. Withitsstately mosque-like club iswellworthavisitforthegawkingop- cated about 3kmoutsidethecity,thisopen-air Oxyd Entertainment waves nearby. whilelisteningsipping abeer tothecrashing escaped fromaforgotten cay. Caribbean havebar, which looksasifitmight recently one roundof drinksatthissmallshack of a tojoinyourgroupforatleast fun-loving staff Bar Kiss Drinking of Turkishwines. dishes. Fittingly,there’s awonderfullylonglist andsomeinternational seafood with passable en masse happycouplesdiningherecan expecttosee sits justfeet awayfromthebackpatio–you whichmention thelappingsoundsof thesea, ting andmood-enhancingsoft rock –notto 49; meals€15-20) quality. acceptable mostof Turkishgrillsandseafood, standard Therelativelytaurant. sizeablemenucontains real water thecentre runsthrough of theres- whichevery way,andastream flowingwith dertones. Plantsandmassive tree leaves droop Pa Club Lighthouse Bar Mehmet’s Moonlight Restaurant Club Apollo Stones DanceBar

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to es EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN you upriver tothewaterfalls. An80-minute town centre you’llfindboatswaitingtorun beach stretches formore than20km tothe son forthis, of course: Alanya’ssilky sand andScandinavia.Germany There’s good rea- by Europeanpackage tourism,especiallyfrom discovered conquered –andsubsequently – Alanya has,inthepastcoupleof decades,been Much like Side,its smallercousintothewest, % ALANYA waterfall thrownin(€18return). withastopatManavgatrun youtoSeleukeia, drivers waitacrossthebridge inManavgat to If youdon’thave yourowntransport,taxi THERE&AWAYGETTING of Lyrbe. that thissite ismore likely theruinedcity of ancientSide,hasconvincedresearchers found inthecity,written inthelanguage afairlyrecentever discovery of aninscription ofa total ninecitiesinhisownhonour. How- officer of AlexandertheGreat whofounded INicator,apresumably egocentric Seleucus inPamphylia,to betheSeleukeia foundedby agora andanecropolis. you canclearlymake an outabathhouse, the buildingsare toidentify,although difficult onhotsummerdays.Manybe cooleven of site isshadedand somewhatforested, andcan ofSituated among anexpanse pinetrees, the larly appealingduetotheirhilltoplocation. condition,are particu- in ratherwell-preserved uphill totheruins. posite theminaret, which windsanother3km Takestone houses. op- theroadtoright columns builtintothewallsof thevillage’s village of 7km).Continue (Seleukeia’; the on through look forasignontheleftmarked ‘ Lyrbe Shortly after passing the Romanaqueduct, Lyrbe (SeleukeiainPamphylia) there are atleast fourpeople. round tripcosts€9perperson, providing A dolmu THERE&AWAYGETTING some of theeateries here. known foritstrout,which isonthemenuat mere metres fromthe falls.Manavgat iswell 402 For years, archaeologists thissite believed The 0242 /pop110,100 EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Alanya MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN ruins ş fromManavgat costs€0.90.Inthe Ş , somequite crumbledandothers ı hlar, andnote thesmallbitsof Caddesi. Atatürk h The Information northern endof Meydan thingtoamainsquareThe closet isHürriyet promontory onwhich thefortress wallssit. such asitis–liesinland(north)fromthe real mainsquare orciviccentre. Thecentre – long cityalmostovernight, Alanyahasno Having gonefromasmalltownto20km- Orientation may wellbecheaper thanbookingprivately. since tours inclusive of andtransfers flights so, check thepackage-holiday brochures first, all wellworthinvestigating. of hillsidecafésandawonderful messof ruins, above theharbour. There you’llfindanumber fascinating fortress district,which sitshigh this newlymoderntown,payavisittothe interested inexploringtheancientculture of Shouldwell intothenight. youhappentobe andparty during theday,dineinevening with relatively simpleto-dolists:sunbathe tohavewithin thecitylimitsseem arrived resorts nowsitpracticallyside-by-side. east, where aparadeof all-inclusive five-star ruins including cisterns andan 11th-century 7.15pm) is the arewooden houses Atthetop still standing. times,andanumberof old man andSeljuk this wastheTurkishquarter duringOtto- the oldinnercitadel; through the roadpasses Taxis waitatthebottom of thehill(€8). (10minutesthe touristoffice pastthehour). (€0.50, hourlyfrom9amto7pm)or opposite walk, catch acitybusfromHürriyetMeydan to thefortress is3km.Ifyoudon’twantto Thewindingroadthe Cilicianmountains. the cityaswellPamphylian plainand is itsSeljuk Alanya’s mostpopularancientsite byfar FORTRESS Sights midnight) seum. Enter the Before reachingBefore theentrancetofort, Understandably, mostof staying those If you want to stay formoreIf youwanttostay thanadayor 8.30am-5.30pm) tourist office tourist Ehmedek Kap , where you’ll find poorly preserved , where you’llfindpoorly preserved C@fé PruvaInternet is off Müftüler Caddesi, justsouthof isoff MüftülerCaddesi, ı , a nondescript traffic junctionatthe , anondescripttraffic İ ç Kale fortress isopposite theAlanyaMu-

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Mersin (375km) Sultan

Mehmet 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 27 To Girne (Cyprus) 403

33 Yayla Yolu Cad 6 EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN visit. Artefacts fromvariousregions of Ana- admission €1; MA ist office andnear the souvenir booths of About from thetour- 100mtowards thesea DRIPPING-STONE CAVE (DAMLATA 19th-century Alanyahome. display isalife-sized recreation of atraditional tolia includetools,jugsandjewellery. Alsoon small Alanya’s MUSEUM sion free; which hasturned itintoasmall of the leftittotheMinistryofhouse Culture, Fatihoff Mehmet Sultan Caddesi. Theowner onAzaklarSokak, 1935, hesleptinahouse When visited Alanyaon18FebruaryAtatürk ATATÜRK’S HOUSE (shipyard) remaining inTurkey. the remains of theonlySeljuk-built struction of thehilltopfortress. Keykubat Iwasalsoresponsible forthecon- AlaettinKeykubat Sultan dered totheSeljuk I. the then-Armenian controlledtownsurren- it wasvery likely thefirst structure erected after and more Constructed than30mhigh. in1226, structure measuringnearly30mindiameter admission €1; İ theharbouratfarlowerendof Overlooking KIZILKULE &TERSANE a hotel ( right ). market enclosure), turnedinto which hasbeen includes aformerOttoman down toexplore thevillage of Byzantine church. It’sworththelongwalk 404 skele Caddesi is the octagonal istheoctagonal skele Caddesi Across theharbourfromtowerare stretches oftime,hastheabilitytorelieve theafflicted oftheirailment. ofairthat,ifinhaledandexhaledforlongenoughthe area kind are saidtoproduceacertain Sufferers ofasthmahave goodreason toholidayintheEastern Mediterranean. Twocaves in THE ASTHMA-CURING CAVES OFTURKEY you getabetter cure inheaven orinhell. (Asthma Cave; p421 ). This cave ismuchlesstouristy,althoughthejuryremains outastowhether known tosendpatientshere. ers. Manylocalsare confidentthecaves work,andinthearea actually have doctors even been where the95%humidityisbelieved tohave somethingtodowiththecave’s impressive pow- Ğ ARASI) EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Alanya MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN The more famousofthetwoisAlanya’sDripping-StoneCave (Damlata North ofNarl North h h 8.30am-noon &1-5pmTue-Sun) h 9am-noon &1.30-7.30pm) 9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun) museum ı kuyu, attheCaves ofHeaven andHell,isthesite knownasAst

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cons butare rathercharacterless. perfectly cleanandtidyroomshave allmod lobby withanauticalthemeandbar. The hotel hasalargestar andsomewhatopulent Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com (Continued from page 404) page from (Continued of justoff thestreet. acementstairway The frontentranceislocated ontheleftside www.lonelyplanet.com is onoffer; trythe options. TraditionalfoodfromGaziantep thisisoneof centralAlanya’sbest seafood, adventurous grillsand thanthestandard Azako köfte for signssaying of Alanya’sbazaar,inthetowncentre. Look a few cheap placestoeatinthenarrowstreets they’reAlthough vanishingfast,there are still Eating .com; tion toget toandfromthemaintownship. transporta- You’llneed and smartlydetailed. ket). Thecavern-like roomsare comfortable site of anoldOttoman creatively designedhotelonthe wasbuiltright and justdowntheroadfromfortress, this the cityinoldTurkish village of Ehmedek, hotmail.com; s/d€36/61; action downbelow. bird’s–eye viewof thethumpingclubandbar the real draware thebalconies,which offer a minibars andperfectly cleanbathrooms,but desi 12;s/d€28/44; Otel Temiz Otel Grand Kaptan Hotel Grand Kaptan Gaziantep Sofras Gaziantep Bedesten Club Hotel Ottoman HouseRestaurant AUTHOR’S CHOICE bus pickup fromyourhotel. Call inaction. to request afree toseeacarving person), don’tmiss outontherare opportunity and ifyouhappen to beintownduringoneoftherestaurant’s fresh tunabarbeques (€14per while dinersare seated underneath acanopyoftrees. Outdoor barbequeshappenoccasionally, gine puree. nightlyinthefrontgarden, Duringthebusy summerseason,live musiciansperform preparedties are anexpertly blendofstandardTurkish dishes. grills, seafoodandOttoman structure,floor ofthistraditionalMediterranean-style where stone-and-timber thehouse speciali- are posted. theirwordforit(orours,thatmatter). Butdon’ttake Settleintoachaironthe2nd look attherestaurant’s wordsfromscores walloffame,where ofguidebooks andperiodicals kind nationally asbeingoneofTurkey’s finest eateries. It’salsowell-regarded internationally: a justtake once Alanya’svery firsthotel, builtover HouseRestaurantisknown acenturyago,theOttoman İ ğ skele Caddesi70;s/d€39/67; skele Especially popularisthe lu Caddesi;meals€8) (meatballs) and salad foraround€5. (meatballs) andsalad

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( ( % % ğ (covered mar- endili , andsnapup Thisthree- ) 513 4570; 511 1421;Damlata İ kebap, a traditional Ottoman entréeoflambwithauber- atraditionalOttoman kebap, skele Cad- skele İ zzet ş lieve it.Infact,thisisthefirstlieve ontheentire honest-to-goodness brewpub inAlanya?Be- and steak restaurant in operation that’sbeen Caddesi31;€15-20) theme. TheHawaiian Clubis onthe Beach it)aSherwoodout in(youguessed Forest first twofloors of thismonstrosityare decked 3am) easily beheardfromblocksaway. all crankrockorpopmusicsolouditcan flashing fromtheirrooftops,lights and nearly three and fourstoreys others high, have laser finding themostpopular–somediscosare dab inthecentre. Youwon’t have anytrouble clubs, themostpopularare foundsmack those home toanenormousparadeof bars and thewidespreadAlthough cityof Alanyais Entertainment Marzen, Weizen,Helles andPilsen. this istheperfect placetotryTurkish-brewed across thestreet thatoverlooks theharbour; aresive tanks beer stored. There’s alsoseating on therestaurant’s 1stfloor,where themas- national dishesandfishspecialitiesare offered patrons showupforthefood,however. Inter- so-called TurkishRiviera. Themajority of redtowerbrewery.com; yourbestchoicecertainly inthetowncentre. toescapethetourismglitz,thisis ing theneed ofselection international dishes.Ifyou’re feel- this placeisquite theclassact,offering agood since 1947(afairlyastonishingfeat inAlanya), .com; R and flatbread). plants) orthe Robin Hood Restaurant TowerBrewery Red Restaurant Mahperi Supposedly thebiggest clubinAlanya,the Supposedly ı ht ı m Caddesi;meals€15-25)

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413 An 9pm- EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN Caddesi), 3kmwestof Caddesi), thecentre. Itisserved (Atatürk highway The otogarisonthecoastal BUS from Girne,there isa€9departure tax. Returning prices isa€6Alanyaharbourtax. cluded inthe€32/64one-way/return ticket handle theimmigrationformalities.Notin- passport adaybefore departure sotheycan on WednesdaysandSundays. and Thursdays. Theyreturn toAlanyaat11am İ Fergün Denizcilik ern CyprusfromAlanyaharbour,operated by toGirne(Kyrenia)There inNorth- are services BOAT Getting There&Away willcostabout€10. miss thebusback,ataxi they departfromtheharbour. Should you down centre. drive Duringthesummer,free buses open-air discosthatare relatively farfromthe play more oldies thanactualclassicrock. to rough-around-the-edges club,which seems memory of theLizardKingatthisrather Kar .com; Karakol tohearreggae,evening jazzandhip-hop. quiet andrelaxing; show upintheafternoon or as theclockslowlyturns.Breakfasts here are thispubchangesat night, itsattitudedrastically h are around€5. Beers third floor,andabove Club. thatistheLatino 414 skele Caddesi84) skele Troy thePub You mustbuyaticket andpresent your Alanya isalsohometoanumberof large Doors RockBar of bananas fromwoodenfruit stands. town, where tospotdozens you’re great certain bunches offarmersalongthehighwayhawking varieties. your eyes peeledwhendrivingthroughthe mountainousregions Keep surrounding numbers ofAnamurbananagrowerswere driven outofbusiness. though, Turkey cheaper(butlesstasty)bananas fromothercountries;large began importing America. forlocalgrowers thanthosecommoninEurope Unfortunately andNorth flavourful smell, andespeciallytheirtaste, isoutstanding. Anamurbananasare muchsweeter andmore wasn’tabadthing.country. That It’struethebananasare certainly especiallysmall,but their reigns supreme. typeoffruit,andAnamurisno different.its proficiencyingrowingacertain Here, thebanana Nearly every cityandtownalongTurkey’s eastern Mediterranean coastseemstobeknownfor BEHOLD THEANAMUR BANANA 24hr) EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundAlanya MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN Happily, ifyou’re inAnamurthelocalbananas canstillbeboughtmore cheaplythan imported ofbananaavailableanywhereUntil themid-1980s,Anamurbananas were inthe theonlysort İ Arestaurant duringthedayandabar skele Caddesi about every half-hour; half-hour; aboutevery skele Caddesi . Boatsleave atnoononMondays ş

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8am- 415 7 A2 B3 B2 B2 B3 D1 B2 B3 B3 D1 A3 EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN reward isanastounding viewof thesea. extremebit crumbledsouse caution.Your of anadventure, somestairs are although a the middleof the14thcentury. Mamure wasbrieflyheldbytheOttomans in noremainsalthough of thatstructure exist. castle wasbuilthere inthe3rdcenturyAD, It’sknownthat a Roman the 3rdcenturyBC. of fortress atthisexactlocationasfarback references existtosuggest there wassomesort the Armeniankingdomof Cilicia–although was constructed bytheChristianleaders of reaches tide. thecastlewallsathigh Mamure sits directly onthebeach, andwater Maiden’s totheeast,rear Castle endof possible tomiss. As ifattempting tomimic directly makingitim- onthemainhighway, its original36towers. Itsfrontendsitsalmost castle fication oneitherMediterranean coast,this forti- By farthebiggest andbest-preserved Mamure Castle(MamureKalesi) breeze onahotsummerday. it’sadecentplacetocatchalthough acool remains of numerousprivate houses. and aratherlarge dating fromthe2ndcenturyAD,a ruins of interest includea900-seat that stilldecorate portionsof thefloor. Other public bath the citysometimeinlate 6th gesting thatamassive earthquake destroyed rium claimtohave uncovered sug- evidence archaeologistshowever, workingatAnamu- sometime inthemid-7thcentury.Recently, ing andpillagingittothepointof noreturn were thelast strawfor Anamurium, plunder- thatcorsairsit waslongbelieved fromArabia However Cilician tribeknownastheCetae. existence, inAD52bya including anattack itsactive throughout setbacks of devastating fell.eventually Thecitysuffered anumber debating exactlyhowandwhyAnamurium themselves, thatimpress. size of thecity,ratherthansimplyruins of It’sprimarilythesheer themountainside. tures stretching fromthebeach tothepeak sprawling andinspiring,withruinedstruc- Byzantineera. Thesitethe medieval isboth 416 The best-preserved structure hereThe best-preserved isthe Historians andarchaeologists are still Climbing tothecastle’s peakissomething Mamure dates fromthe12thcentury–it Much of thebeach ispebblyandrocky, EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Anamur MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN

(admission €1.50; ; lookforthecoloured tiles mosaic necropolis h 8am-6pm) . There are alsothe still retains all

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a ground. It’sespeciallypopularwithTurkish isthislarge,Castle hillyandforested camp site hasspots forbothtents andcaravans, and thissomewhatrugged camp tothesea, close vans €8,bungalows€17-22) Yali Mocamp ve Hotel Camping street. Thedolmu along there are numerous pensionsandhotels In thefast-growing İ about €14aday. ofuse abicycle. Motorbikes canberented for Mamure asguestsare Castle, allowedfree forexcursions toAnamuriumor good base if you’re stuckintownovernight. It’salsoa clean, decent-sizedrooms,it’sagoodchoice next totheotogar. Withitsfriendlyownerand swim fullyclothed). (wherenics bythesea piousMuslimwomen families andschool groupswhoarrive forpic- or caravans€5) Pullu Orman ANAMUR Sleeping Hotel, thisnewly remodelled spotfeatures €17/28/36; complete withreal bathtubs. English speaker, theflats andsuites here come by anultra-energetic and accommodating barbeque pitintheshadedbackgarden. Run kitchen anda room,aself-catering in every has recently remodelled toincludesatellite TV families, thistrulyaccommodating pension ai siyon.com; utes themainintersection. through 20min- every thelocalbusthatpasses Catch the coasttowardsAnamuriumfrom ofpanse apartmentblocksabout 2kmalong hotels inthe Yal they dooffer goodvalue. There are several ish families,sowhiletheymaynotbefancy The pensionsandhotels cater largely toTurk- Pensions &Hotels has bungalowsavailable. intersection. SKELE Hotel Dedehan Hotel Sezgin Hotel Sezgin Eser Pansiyon ) This rather pleasant placecanbefound Thisratherpleasant ) İ Catering primarilytobackpackers Catering and nönü Caddesi, themainwaterfrontnönü Caddesi, İ nönü Caddesi6;s/d/tr€14/22/28,5-personflat€39; a Justunder2kmeastof Mamure İ Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com çi DinlenmeYeri ) Formerly known as the Sevgi Formerly knownasthe Sevgi

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noon &1.30-6pmMon-Fri) church, isasite of great significancetomany den underneaththeremains of aByzantine behind thebasilicaruins. the site. Theentrancetothecave isdirectly Sokak, which leadsdirectly upahillandto onyourleft.NexttoitisAyatekla station Ta was builtinherhonourAD480. years inthecave livingapiouslife. Thechurch A religious outcast,Theclaspentherlastfew was thefirst person tobeconverted byStPaul. Christians. StThecla(Ayatekla inTurkish) The Cave ofStThecla AROUND S per hour). and toMersin (€3, twohours, 85km,three (€16.50,ninehours,talya 390km,10perday) of theGöksu. onthesouthbank otogar –orfromastand fromthe –acrossthehighway Restaurant 20minutesevery from opposite Babao €1) areas refreshingly of thesea cool. stream flowsintothelittle cove, making some ringed withfishrestaurants. An underground pretty aroundarockyharbour village set About 3kmeastof Atakent, Narl Narl fertile land. Plain opensintoanever-widening swatheof the coastforabout60kmbefore theCilician est areas forarchaeological sites, stretch along covered OlbianPlateau, oneof Turkey’s rich- is rich in birdlife. ( Delta above ), arenowned wetland area that Immediately southof Silifke isthe Göksu Göksu Delta&Around To get tothecave fromSilifke take aTa THERE&AWAYGETTING Dolmu the Ayatekla junction,1kmfromthesite. of town. ing oneof themanyarchaeological sites east who’ve visit- will stoptopickupthose been , which isactually a4th-century Roman ş Inside the village’s tiny To reach thecave whendrivingfrom Other services fromSilifke includetoAn- Other services East ofEast Silifke, theslopesof themaquis- ucu toSilifke, lookfortheAlpetpetrol Dolmu Cave ofStThecla Cave ı kuyu ş (€0.50) and ask to be dropped off at (€0.50)andasktobedroppedoff ş Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com es toTa İ L İ FKE

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(admission h ş 9am- ğ ucu lu down its452steps. Alongthewayyou’llpass kü museum. The sea bass isrecommended. Thesea museum. Graces –Aglaia, ThaliaandEuphrosyne. ofgoddesses fertility, alsoknownastheThree ofbath, you’llfindawonderfulmosaic the lonelyplanet.com where you’llfindthe then make aquickleft intoanothercarpark, in battle. headed monster Typhonafter defeating him imprisonedthehundred-spot where Zeus it’saccountedlooking pit,though tobethe above. There’s inthecharred- notmuch tosee fromasmall viewingplatform only beseen nearby world andtheunderworld. in Greek our mythologyistheborderbetween nects atsomepointwithStyx,theriver which haditthattheroaringstreamLegend con- inthewinter butnotsummer). can beseen the soundof anunderground stream (which fear not:it’ssimply roaring sound,though, the infernal regions. Should youhearacertain thiscavebelieve tobeoneof theentrancesto we’re given inpopularculture. locals Indeed, similartotheimagelook frighteningly of hell to Hell the cave where itself, you’llfindthe a mosque. as short timeinthe19thcenturywasused Byzantine church.Catholic ofwhat similartothelighting candlesina cloth tovarioustree branches, aritualsome- the faithfulhave tiedhundreds of smallstrips agorgeouslythrough where leafyexpanse (admission €1; fascinating road winds2kmuptothese areaIn themountainous above Narl Cehennum) Caves ofHeaven&Hell( Cennet ve Ertur, K €10) vourite is menu),aperennial thesame fa- essentially the cove here are regarded highly (andoffer Cave). Sufferers of asthma whospend time ğ To enter the Continue followingthepathdownandinto At themouthof thecave isthe5th-century Frequent dolmu When leaving and the carpark,turnright ticket aseparate You’ll need toviewthe alltheeateriesAlthough wrappedaround ü), which is 250macross,make yourway , which isjustacrossthestreet fromthe (Cehennem Çukuru), which does infact Çukuru),which does (Cehennem Pit ofHell ı zkalesi andSilifke (€0.50). Kerim Restaurant Kerim h Chapel of Virgin Mary Chapel ofVirgin 8am-5pm) EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundSilifke MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN Chasm of Heaven

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ı lar, EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN sight ofsight Not much canprepare youfor theastounding Sights &Activities internet cafés. and several There isan ATM inthemunicipalitybuilding, Information this size. you’d expectof atypicalTurkish village of scene here is more inclusive andrelaxed than at dealingwithforeigners. Foravisitor,the adept so manyAmericans,thelocalsseem here. it shouts volumes–about thefuntobehad speaksvolumes–quite often base military ofsight Americansoldiers fromthenearby dance of thenearbyruins, and thefrequent andabun- something abouttheimportance aeology studentsinK the sea. the eponymousK nothing of fortress thefactthatamedieval – the loveliest inthisregion, andthat’stosay The impressively longbeach here isoneof 26km eastof Silifke, becamesopopular. growonyou. will almostcertainly quated tourismepicentre, ruinsandparttacky ofwhich todayispartopen-airmuseum anti- around forawhile,andthissmallvillage, garishandcrudeuponarrival.Butstick seems isthesortofmain D400highway, placethat K % KIZKALES 422 200m in the sea, and looks from a distance as andlooksfromadistance 200m inthesea, ı zkalesi, which pushes right upagainstthe zkalesi, which pushes right Undoubtedly because ofUndoubtedly because thepresence of It’s nosecret howthisvery smalltown, The presence of somanyAmericanarch- completing research inthisarea during their summerbreak. theYakawell. Infact, Hotel isoneof K car outsidethefront entrance. can often befoundlounging about. tive gardenarea, where thehotel mascot–ascruffylittledogbelonging toYakup’s daughter – he dotes uponguestsasifthey were membersof his ownfamily.Lodgerscandineintheattrac- would have tobeYakup theYaka Kahveci, Hotel’s multilingualandquick-witted owner. relaxing hotel placetostay,atthetopoflistas towhythistwo-star issuchawonderfully Yaka Hotel AUTHOR’S CHOICE: 0324 EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••K MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN Should youcare atourof thenearbyarchaeological totake wonders,thatcanbearranged as Rooms are impeccablytidy,andwhilethere’s noofficial carpark,youcansafely leave your Yakup inthehospitalitybusiness forages,andit’sclearheenjoyshisprofession; hasworked K ı zkalesi zkalesi İ

( % (Maiden’s which lies Castle), 523 2444; [email protected]; s/d€17/28; 523 2444;[email protected]; ı zkalesi –sits200moutin ı zkalesi should tell you ı zkalesi zkalesi ı zkalesi’s favourite restingzkalesi’s spotsforarchaeology students so besure towearproperfootwear. Armenia. It’sabitof arough-and-ready site, was brieflyoccupiedbythekingsof Lesser either builtorrebuilt bytheByzantines,and much lowerthanthatof tour, andthe ataxi guests tolocalarchaeological sites forrates Theowners shuttle Rain. the popularCafé folksresponsibleand isrunbythesame for this relaxing hotel isonly60mfromthebeach, €25/39; frontgardenisanotherplus. sea-facing best –ithasagorgeous viewof thecastle. The you want.Room201isprobablythehotel’s –sobesurethe sea tospeakupifthat’swhat while allroomshave balconies,notallface bythelargesurprised sizeof therooms.And €22/33; Hantur Hotel Sleeping about aswell. scattered are androckcarvings sarcophagi a (admission €1) pay around€3foraliftonboat. to mostpeoplechoose to thecastle;however, possibly floatingonair. Itispossibletoswim if it’sliterally suspendedontopof the water, or to findit.Spotlessroomshave alltheusual and pamperingyou’re after, thisistheplace barbarossa.com.tr; s/d€33/50; can bearranged forabout €33. travellers Scuba-divingtrips intheevening. a perfect other placetokickbackandmeet lounge is here, complete withsatellite TV, necropolis Club Hotel Barbarossa Club Hotel Rain Hotel is fromKorykosCastle Across thehighway To itsleftandontheshore is a a a ) ) Located onthebeach, right you’llbe Family-owned andfamily-friendly, that’swellworthexploring.There , anantiquated fortress thatwas ) Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

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Of allthepossibleexplanations Of % ( % 523 2367;[email protected];s/d 523 2782;www.rainhotel.com;s/d

as www.lonelyplanet.com ( % 523 2364;info@hotel ) If it’sluxury Korykos Castle

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To Tarsus(27km); (admission €1; 21 Tarsus (27km); Adana (70km) Adana (70km) To Viransehir;

(admission Orthodox Orthodox pathway 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 C2 D2 C2 D1 C2 C2 B2 23

€14/22; seem theleastbitash seem Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com Buses departfromoutsidethetouristoffice. Buses hotel andstrollthelengthof wooden carts,leave theguidebookatyour and vendors strawberriesandnutsfrom sell hood where Or, todiscover aworking-class neighbour- www.lonelyplanet.com 34/D; meals €5-10) ties: so simplyorder one of speciali- thehouse to bepermanentlyheaving. Ithasno menu, especially toothsome fast-food jointseems Gündo Eating &Drinking are atouch steep, butdiscountsare possible. rooms, somewithsea-view balconies. Prices in thecentre offers blandbutnice-enough fancy ifnotentirely up-to-date four-star hotel Gümruk Meydan courts andahealthclubare bothonsite. here are rather well taken care of. Tennis Enjoying twoAsian-fusion restaurants, guests ononesideandthecityother.the sea this luxuryhotel have amazingviews,with thehallwaysat Not justtherooms,buteven Bulvar Adnan Menderes no charge. their cars inthecarparkacrossstreet at are Guestscanleave cleanenough. certainly in therooms,which lookabitragged but in thecentre andminibars offers satellite TV Caddesi 22;s/d€19.50/33; is happytoconsiderdiscounts. centre. What’smore, themanagement here find pricesthischeap anywhere inthe else youcan’teasily thatmaybebecause although bathroomfloors,way carpetsandstained ing theotogar,someof themdecent. there are anumberof hotels immediately fac- early inthemorning,it’sworthnotingthat If youarrive late andare atnight leaving again So Many cheap andmedium-pricedhotels are in Sleeping Viran cheese ormeat) ğ Mersin Oteli Mersin wanttocheck might out Archaeology buffs Mersin Hilton Mersin Gökhan Hotel Savran Hotel Ho uksu Caddesi, justnorthof uksu Caddesi, theUluCami. İ ş ş skender ehir ğ a SohbetEt Lokanta du ) , theancientSolesorPompeiopolis.

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EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN pol Kuyusu; see boxedpol Kuyusu;see text right ). Theruins ist office. 426 paving slabs covering alengthydrain. ful stretch of where excavations have uncovered awonder- low itandyou’llcome toCumhuriyetAlan the leftpointsto plates of glass. of Paul’s canbeviewedunderneath house asignpointingleftto see hükümet kona of antiquity. any sense toration carriedoutin1994hasrobbeditof met Mark AntonyinTarsus. res- Inanycase, tohave sheisthought famous lady,although Roman city gate thathaslittletodowiththe beside dropyouoff Buses Sights &Activities booth inthetowncentre. tions are available atthetouristinformation street. mapsof Detailed Tarsus anditsattrac- sideofhop onabus(€0.50)thesame the centre; oryoucanwalkoutthefrontexitand fromtheretaxi willcostyou€4tothecity The newotogarissomewayoutof town. A Information perseverance. this isalsooneof townsthatrepays those of concrete apartmentblocks.However, Muchthat assessment. of thecity isasprawl first few sight, peoplewoulddisagree with but it’sdownintheworldsincethen’,andat that Tarsus have ‘might doneforSaul/Paul, born here 2000years ago. Onereader wrote inextricably linked withoneman:St Paul, Tarsus isoneof townswith aname those % TARSUS Adana (€1.50)and There toTarsus are frequent services (€0.90), TRAIN Agency als canbearranged at If youwanttoexplore thecoastbycar,rent- CAR as fromthestopopposite theMersin Oteli. regularly aswell fromoutsidethetrainstation, Buses fromtowntotheotogar(€0.50)leaveBuses At the same road junction a second signto roadjunction asecond At thesame Walk straight ahead,and justbeforeWalk straight the 0324 /pop216,000 EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Tarsus MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN

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(Sen- , a ı , stadium. tothe close Uygur andCumhuriyetCaddesi, It’s nowlocated nearthecornerof Muvaffak a ratherfrightening hotel, theprice although Mosque), which sportsacurious19th-century for tea gardensandrestaurants. inside thetown,providing theperfect setting nus River) which cascadesover therocksright the dolmu work of ahuge old beside itloomsthebarely recognisable brick- have achurch been dedicated toStPaul. Right structurea medieval which mayoriginally across thestreet is century tinue northwardsuntilyoucometothe19th- used anupdate some 30yearsused ago. able, the décor andinterior designcould have rather lovely andmostconveniences are avail- above thewaterfall, theroomsare andalthough s/d€33/50; Mevkii; inAdanainstead.it, sleep inapinch,Acceptable butifyoucanmanage ofdistance Cleopatra’sGate –isconvenient. andthelocation –withinwalking is right, desi 21;s/d€11/16.50; Cihan Palas Oteli Sleeping &Eating h the ruinsof itandonestreet overBehind are ontheright andcontinuealongthe sidestreet.Camii besidetheMakamclock tower,turnright The youcancatch a theEskiCami Beside Return tothe To reach the16th-century Tarsus Mersin Oteli Tarsus Oteli Mersin can’t vouchforitscleanliness!). a smalldrinkfromthewell(note thatwe site ofhisruinedhouseinTarsus totake followers. Todaypilgrimsstillflocktothe becamesacred tohistion ofhisbirthplace in Rome,sometimeafter AD60,theloca- out muchoftheancientworld.After dying pagans andJewstoChristianitythrough- during hislifetime heconverted scores of of Christianity’smostzealous proselytisers; Jewish bybirth, Paul (bornSaul)wasone BIRTHPLACE OFSTPAUL 8am-noon &1-5pmMon-Fri) waterfall ş Tarsus Museum (€0.50)toTarsus’ othermainsight, Makam Camii Makam Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

St Paul’s Church ( ş pa elale) ( % a hükümet kona 624 1623; fax 624 7334; Mersin Cad- 624 1623;fax7334;Mersin ( Roman bath ontheTarsus Nehri(Cyd- % Thisfour-star hotel looms ) Eski Cami Eski ) on the right. Directly ontheright.

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(Great Ş elale elale travelling thetwo. between (43km), soyoucouldtake abreak here while necting Tarsus withMersin (27km)andAdana There are plentyof anddolmu buses Getting There&Away lonelyplanet.com north. Ifyouapproach bycarfromthenorth desi, themaincommercialandhotel street. of Ziyapa isatthenorthernend D400. Thetrainstation is 2kmfurtherwestonthenorthsideof the 4km westof thecentre ontheD400.Theotogar east. Adana’sairport( River skirts thecitycentre The Seyhan tothe Orientation modern. andthoroughly secular intoarealglimpse Turkishcitythat’syoung, great restaurants. here Anight willgive youa buttheresights, are lotsof bars andsome large otogarandhotels. There maybefew a ithasanairport,atrainstation, because Rivers. andCeyhan silt bytheSeyhan rova, theancientCilicianplaindeposited as ( p428 fertile); andfromtheintensely Çuku- theCilicianGates passingthrough the traffic glomerate, Turkey’s second-largest); from local industry(especiallytheSabanc lottery-ticket corner. sellers onevery of crammedtogether, unplannedhouses with until themoderncitydissolves intoasprawl yougo,thepoorerhighway thecitybecomes, ket apartmentblocks.Thefurthersouthof the cars theleafystreets, cruise linedwithupmar- Bulvar Beriker called theTuranCemal and physicaldivide. Northof theD400(also brash commercialcitywithadistinctsocial Turkey’s fourth-largest city, Adana, isabig, % ADANA The E90expressway skirtsthecityto Most likely you’llonlywindupinAdana Adana’s wealthcomesfromthree sources: shot the next time you experience a particularly painful doseofTraveller’s D. timeyou experience aparticularly shot thenext shock haswornoff. Localsdrinkthejuiceto relieve anupsetstomach,soyoumightgive ita ş while youdrinkyourfirstglass–aswithcoffee,ing andfunny-face making cigarettes andbeer, strong tang,andtastes asif it were freshly squeezed. You’llprobablydoagoodbitofpucker- or asanaccompanimenttorak is thecrimson-coloured A once-tried, never-forgotten localdrinkmadeby boilingturnipsandcarrotsaddingvinegar, TURNIP JUICE,ANYONE? 0322 /pop1.1million algam isanacquired taste. However formore youmayfindyourself hankering after theinitial ş a Bulvar EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Adana MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN ı , 1.5kmnorthof Ş akirpa ş algam ş a Havaalan ı (aniseed-flavoured grapebrandy).The juicecarriesanespecially , soldatstallsaroundtown.It’soften meal drunkwithakebap İ nönü Cad- ş es con- ı ı con- ) new ı ) is ) is the six-minaret St James. Bothare onÖzlerCaddesi. life started imposing portal, asthechurch of 13) town centre, andasmaller he wasunapproachable: having grownup religiousdevoutly man.Which isn’ttosay and it’svery obvious thatSabanc Take onelookatthemosqueheleftbehind, age of 71,therichest maninallof Turkey. awayin2004atthe pist, and,whenhepassed successful businessman,generous philanthro- industrial magnate Sak and SaudiArabia,itwasbuiltbythelate River. Thebiggest mosque between side theGirneBridge andthebankof Ceyhan 10 domes,whilethe the general square planof with theUluCami, and Kütahya indicating thedirection of Mecca) camefrom surrounds. Thetilesinthe white bandedmarbleandelaborate window Mamluk mosquesof withblack-and- Cairo, Mosque; AbidinPa The attractive 16th-century MOSQUES Sights northofCaddesi thehotels. at theairport.Internet cafésare on There’s a Information köprü Meydan Kuru- between hotels onÖzlerCaddesi several Çetinkayashopping centre.rise There are Kuruköprü Meydan exit toreach thecitycentre. or west,take theAdanaKüzey(AdanaNorth) the southeast. More conspicuousthaneitherof is these oneblocknorthof At thewestern endof The 1724 tourist office tourist Yeni Cami İ ş znik. a Caddesi) ı Sabanc and Küçüksaat Meydan andKüçüksaat ı Ya

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EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN most of Turkey’s provincial The museums. areAdana’s twomainmuseums acutabove MUSEUMS other mosqueswithina60kmradius. originating here are broadcasttonearly300 influence inthesurroundingareas: Prayers ble andgold-leafinlaidmosquehasquite an conceals asmallelevator. Fittingly,themar- can fitinside,andoneof theminarets even 20,000worshippersous monument.Roughly Sabanc ness hadn’truinedhim.Nonetheless,the hisshareholdersand certainly –thatbigbusi- accent soastoassure hisfellow Turks– spoke hepurposely inacountryit’s said in thecentralAnatolianvillage of Akcakaya, 428 4 1 3 2 ADANA EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Adana MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN üeu tgr...... D2 B2 Yüreÿui Otogar...... B1 Turkish AirlinesOffice...... C3 Hertz...... B1 Dolmus toOtogar...... Avis...... TRANSPORT B3 Çetinkaya ShoppingCentre.. SHOPPING B2 B2 The SportsCafe...... Cazara...... ENTERTAINMENT B2 B1 Yüzevler...... B2 Sun Patisserie...... B1 Pronto...... Café Keyif...... EATING B3 C2 Selibra Otel...... B3 Hotel PrincessMaya...... B3 Hotel MavîSürmeli...... D3 Akdeniz Oteli...... Adana Hilton...... SLEEPING B3 C3 Yeni Cami...... C3 Yaÿ Camii...... D3 Ulu Cami...... D3 Stone Bridge...... B3 Sabancî MerkezCami...... Kuruköprü Meydanî...... C4 C4 Kapali Çarši(coveredmarket).. (BüyükScatKulesi)...... C3 Great ClockTower C2 Catholic Church...... C3 Belediye (TownHall)...... C3 Atatürk Statue...... C2 Atatürk Museum...... Adana RegionalMuseum...... B3 Adana EthnographyMuseum.. SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES B3 Tourist Office...... INFORMATION ı Merkez aconspicu- iscertainly Cami AC 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ὈὈ ὈὈ

Otogar (6km) To Airport(4km); Mustafa Kemal Paša Bul Kara Îsalî Kara Cad 24

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) EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN between Adanaand between a €2 8r 5k atleastone 950km 18hr €22 Van €11 Silifke 2hr 155km 14 buses Ş Konya €16.50 €14 Kayseri 4hr 220km 6½hr 6½hr €8 Gaziantep several 335km 350km several frequent nay €65 1h 55m 2or3 555km 10hr €16.50 8buses(in Diyarbak 440km Antalya 10hr Antakya €5.50 €19.50 €14 3½hr Ankara 10hr 190km 490km Alanya hourly hourly tures are at 2.10pmdailyand at9.10pmon hours).hours) Depar- via Konya(€8,seven to spres is decorated withlovely tiles.The 3172) The façadeof theAdana TRAIN Hertz 0476) Avis CAR Ad Duration Destination Fare Distance Fr FROMADANA’SOTOGARSERVICES River.Seyhan (per the Yüre and Kozan (€3,onehour,72km)leave from Dolmu dolmu day) Adana’s large otogaroffers direct or buses BUS İ and Ankara(onehour), 22) Airlines Turkish AIR Getting There&Away the week. theremainderto SkidRowthroughout of burnouts poundEfes andnodtheirheads Saturdaynight; bandsjamevery rock. Guitar fans of late-80sbandsandalternative metal 430 ful daily services are listed below. inthetable ful dailyservices anl stanbul (1½hours).stanbul Nemrut Da summer) ı has daily nonstop flights between Adana between hasdailynonstopflights aa fr €4 h 30m 7buses 370km 6hr €14 yaman (for İ ı

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(Snake 35kmeast Castle), 5km toAy Heading on towardsKadirli, hitch back the and hitch aridepretty easilyinthemorning. you’re ina dolmu Anavarza/Anazarbus, 5kmtotheeast.If where ismarked aroadontheright for Kadirli roadnorthtothevillage of Ay followtheKozan/ From theD400highway THERE&AWAYGETTING probably findaplacetopitch atent. that’s it.Ifyouhave campingequipmentyou’ll andashop withcolddrinks,but ple tea houses still standing. of an after walking650m,you’llreach theremains other gatepost reuses aRomancolumnand, avillagestones. Turnleftthrough where every a large it’s calledAnavarza. it fell intodeclineinthe15thcentury.Today The lastowners didn’tcare aboutitmuch and Byzantines again,theTurksandMamluks. the Crusaders, alocalArmenianking,the ofthose theHamdanid princesof Aleppo, armies cameandsnatched itaway,including cityatastrategic nexus,andother important held itforabriefperiod,butAnazarbuswasan to cropsandpasture butstrewn withancient this gate wastheancientcity,nowgiven over The village of Anavarza hasacoupleof sim- After 5kmyoureach aroadjunctionand aqueduct gateway ş ehoca andtake the817roadnorth with several arches thatare withseveral set in the city walls. Through inthecitywalls.Through set ş orbusyoucanget outhere ş ehoca, ehoca,

431 EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN s/d €22/33) hotel. youwouldexpect inathree-stareverything town. Theroomsare large andinviting with on themainstreet, in isthebestplace to stay down from the Lokantas past themosque. garage andthehotel isontheleft turnright left fromtheotogar. When youreach theBP basic –withdecentrooms.Tofindit,turn s/d €5/10) Kervansaray Hotel Sleeping &Eating Park. andKaratepe-AslantaCastabala forgettingmakes toHierapolis- base auseful Gaziantep. Anuninspiringtown,itnevertheless Osmaniye liesontheE90,linkingAdanaand % OSMAN be itandAdana (€1.80,onehour). tween makes agooddaytrip.There are frequent buses cheapseveral eateries and andtea houses, Armenian Church. of Sis,oneof patriarchs thetwosenior of the 1921 thiswasthecathedralof theCatholicos called the main gates are theruinsof achurch, locally apartments. a massive tower,which onceheldtheroyal towered andonyourleft keep onyourright, amany- you don’tlike youcansee heights) if youclimbupanarrowridge (notgoodif Insideisamessofitself. ruinedbuildings,but pass apairof towers andthenthemain gate tobebelieved. from thetophastobeseen narrow ridge 300mabove thetown.Theview II(r1187–1219)stretchesbuilt byLeo alonga ing theÇukurova plain.Astunningfortress and thelynchpin of of aseries castlesoverlook- p431 of) wasthecapital thekingdomof Cilicia, The market townof Kozan (formerlySis;see Kozan Feke, forKadirli. theright ides. Theleftforkismarked forKozan and to Na 432 Between thefirstof set towers andthe Between Climbing uptheroadtocastleyou This isatownwhere people eatearly. Ş and hassomefineoldhouses Kozan itself 0322 ahin Otel ahin EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Osmaniye MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN ş idiye/Çukurköprü, where theroaddiv- Thisisabasicplace–andwedomean ı Thisnewhotel, opposite thepark İ

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EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN are, come complete with TV andminibar.are, comecomplete with TV cut rates byabout€10. Rooms,such asthey ous scrubbing,but management iswillingto bit shabby andtheshowers are dueforaseri- will beexpected toattend dailymass. have views. decentmountain cluded) are large certainly andsome enough, in- therooms(withTV and musty,although desi; s/d€16.50/25; comfortable lobby. comfortable conies andsmalldesks.There’s alsoaquite budget options,someroomshere have bal- 436 İ isincluded. TV roomsarealthough quite large andsatellite the otogarissomewhatplainlydecorated, Caddesi 58;s/d€25/39; breakfast spread, andespeciallyhelpfulstaff. offree use aninternet terminal, impressive place alsogets goodmarksforitsfree wi-fi, included.This clean roomswithsatellite TV choice with plainbutvery and comfortable İ Otel Grand Kavak MIDRANGE 6;perperson€8) Kutlu Sokak house roomsof Church’seight theCatholic atoneofyou toit,maybeable tostay the €11/16.50; in town. rate, andyou’ve gotoneof thecheapest sleeps manager uponhisoffer todiscountaroom out, andnobreakfast included.Buttake the toilets downthehall,acurioussmellthrough- the trueepitomeof rugged lodging.Squatter found it.Thishotel acrossfromtheotogaris €10/16.50) Ş BUDGET Sleeping and nearbyatKurtulu itonpostersminaret of (you’llsee Antakya), is the former livingroomof Nextdoor onehouse. in thecity’soldquarter, withthechapel inthe h stiklal Caddesi16;s/d€28/39; stiklal Caddesi16;s/d€20/31; eker Palas Oteli eker Assuming atourgrouphasn’talready beat Hotel Saray Hotel Divan Oteli The Onur Hotel Orontes Hotel mass 8.30amdaily&6pmSun) EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••Antakya(Hatay) MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN

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( % ( % 214 9001; fax 214 9002; Hürriyet Cad- 214 9001;fax9002;Hürriyet % a 216 2210; [email protected]; 216 2210;[email protected]; 215 1518; ) , withawonderfullyornate Definitely alittlerugged 215 1603; 214 5931;fax5933; (Kurtulu This two-star hotel Thistwo-star near ) 214 3530; www.kavakotel.com; 214 3530;www.kavakotel.com; . Note thatyou though ş 56isa a occupies two houses occupies twohouses ai İ ş ) stiklal Caddesi62;s/d The roomsare a Caddesi, Kutlu Sokak 6; Caddesi,KutluSokak İ stiklal Caddesi79;s/d synagogue ) A fantastic ş Caddesi; İ guest- stiklal . yours fiery pepper;ifthisisn’ttoyourtaste, askfor Many are maincourses andsalads dusted with where inTurkey, isreadily available here. company manykebaps. Hummus,rare else- Handfuls of mintandwedges of lemonac- Syrian influencespermeate cuisine. Antakya’s Eating &Drinking and anornate chandelier. and anelegantlobby complete withdrapery European paintingsandprintsintherooms, Turkish carpetsonthefloors, Expect tails. filled withantiquefurniture andantiquede- warmly decorated French colonialstructure yazitoteli.com; HükümetCaddesi4;s/d€69.50/86; overpriced. yetslightly enough, large river andcomfortable views.Certainly ish, andsomeroomshave decentcityand onsite. Morningbreakfast spreads are lav- spotwithahairdresser andtravelstar agent Caddesi 8;s/d€54.50/78; Büyük AntakyaOteli TOP END and discountsare available fortheasking. andminibar, antique style. Allroomshave TV hotel offers tasteful roomsinabeautifulfaux- nextdoor,thisnew Antik GrandRestaurant Caddesi18;s/d€33/50; .com; Hürriyet meals €5-7) The lunchtime. Trythe this isacheap eatery thatpacksinthelocalsat around €5) lahmacun dens, such astheSarma west of Here themuseum. you’llfindtea gar- Park, Belediyesi afewAntakya blockssouth- and outside. upstairs popular of andhasseating these, isthemost it. KralKünefe neartheUluCami at thenorthernendof sell Hürriyet Caddesi and get fromtheoven. ithot,straight Shops topped withchopped walnutsandbaked. Try of fresh, onalayerof mildcheese, sugarsyrup, cake of fineshredded wheatlaidover adollop well asshady promenades. Süper 96 trythelocalspeciality, For dessert, Antik Beyaz Antik GrandHotel Han Restaurant Sultan Sofras A goodplacetohangoutistheriverside sütlaç ac Right next door to the Mosaic Hotel, nextdoortotheMosaic Right ı Oneof the city’smostenjoyable s ı jointpopularwithteenagers.

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İ ( ( skender % % 215 8538; Hürriyet Caddesi 17/1; 215 8538;Hürriyet 213 5858;fax5869;Atatürk ) A fairly standard four-A fairlystandard 215 7575;www.antikgrand www.lonelyplanet.com 216 2900;beyazit@antikbe ş ı İ k Çay Bahçesi, as k ÇayBahçesi, a stiklal Caddesi20;meals dönerorakebap. Afast-food and Attached to the tothe Attached ) künefe, a ) A a meals €6-9) here feels much like eatingatafriend’splace. means home),it’slittlewonderthatdining from where orhitch afew youpickupataxi the roadfromentranceto otogar), onacoolevening. delight Theoutdoorterrace isanabsolutetive staff. derful eateries, withafantastic lonelyplanet.com northern points (Ankara, Antalya, northern points(Ankara,Antalya, The otogar hasdirect to mostwestern and buses Within Turkey (S£25). make the45-minute runtoLattakia lage of Kassab, fromwhere regular microbuses you’re vil- just2kmfromtheSyrianmountain (and crossingtakes allof 15minutes here), kilometres furthertotheborder. Onceacross Yaylada a coupleof kilometres totheSyrianborder. to theTurkishborder. Thenyouhave towalk desis. FromReyhanliyoucancatch adolmu corner of Yavuz and Selim Sultan from infrontof onthe thepetrol station toReyhanli(€1,45minutes)local buses leave Aleppo (Syria)costsaround€25. (Turkey) fromAntakya to and trucks.Ataxi buses negotiate thestationary apaththrough 8am ortake ashared orprivate which taxi, can border, ensure youare before passingthrough to fourhours. Toavoid hangingabout atthe tobraceyourself forwaitsof so you’llneed two trucks take, theReyhanl follow theroute thatallcross-border and buses buses hours)(€5.50, eight atnoondaily.These at 9amandnoondaily,toDamascus direct toAleppo(€3,fourhours, buses 105km) boxed text p674 ). Everyone the toenter avisa Syria(see needs To &FromSyria BUS Getting There&Away Turkish are screened here. English-language blockbusters subtitledin Konak Sinema Entertainment grills. standard toothsome kebaps and furniture, andserving Tastefully decorated withphotosandantique Alternatively, catch adolmu The Jet otogarhas buscompanyatAntakya If you want to tackle theborderinstages, If youwanttotackle Antakya Evi künefe ğ Withanamelike Evi Antakya ( ı (from behind the taxi rankacross (frombehind thetaxi

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village of Karaçay, reachable by a Samanda tothemonasteryThe turn-off isjustpast the THERE &AWAYGETTING climb toaddress personally. thesaint havepillar, which pilgrimsmight ableto been remains of astepped structure nexttothe way toSamanda Karaçay, onthe about18kmfromAntakya, 7kmfromthevillagesit onamountain of The remains of this 6thcenturymonastery Monastery ofStSimeon to pickuppassengers. (€0.50, 15minutes), where theystop(briefly) runalongKurtulu buses frequentFrom Antakya, dolmu THERE&AWAYGETTING the poolsandrivuletsof cooling water. holidaymakers enjoyingthetea gardensand ley ontheleft,which isusuallyfullof Antakyal Ça proach istoget off thedolmu very popularasapicnicplace. Thebestap- pinetreesalthough ringalarge poolof water, tree. There are nowadays, nolaurels tobeseen the godApolloandwasturnedintoalaurel prayed toberescued fromtheattentions of ing toclassicalmythology,thevirgin Daphne istheancient Antakya, Daphne where, accord- The hillsuburbof Harbiye, 9kmtothesouthof Harbiye (Daphne) AROUND ANTAKYA for anddolmu ect orviaGaziantep. Minibuses Ş toGaziantep (€6.50,fourhours) and services the CilicianGates ( p428 ). There are frequent via Adana(€5.50,3½hours) andthrough İ stand justnorthofstand the otogar. the iniquitiesof Antioch. There are also the could listen toStSimeonpreaching against ofpillar (thebase itremains) where pilgrims area withanoctagonal mountain aroundthe outofmonastery andpillarwere the carved bythemonks.The was probably onceused ings. Thethirdchurch ismore austere and church isthemostbeautiful,withrich carv- inthefirst, butthecentral canbeseen saics ruins of three churches. Theremains of mo- when wevisited. zmir, Kayseri andKonya),usuallytravelling anl The cross-shaped monastery contains the The cross-shapedmonastery contains ğ İ layan andwalkdownintothewoodedval- ı skenderun (€1.50,onehour)leave froma urfa (€11, seven hours, 345km),eitherdir-urfa (€11,seven ğ . There wasnoticket office ş Caddesi toHarbiye Caddesi ş opposite Hotel ş es andcity 437 ş es es ğ

EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake from Samanda If youcontinue6kmwesttowardsthesea Çevlik havebut youmight better luckhitching. a few dolmu corner with onYavuzstand nearthe Caddesi, Selim Sultan 35 minutes, 29km)leave fromanunmarked Dolmu THERE&AWAYGETTING worth visiting,ifit’sopen. İ orchards around it.Turkish Armeniansfrom perous, makingalivingfromtheattractive tobefairlypros- elderly, butthevillage seems TheresidentsLebanon. of Vakifli are mostly most of thelocalArmenianswere resettled in vicin ity, butwhentheHatay joinedTurkey 1939 there were sixArmenianvillages inthe nity of about 130Turkish-Armenians. Until nian village inTurkey, hometoacommu- of is MtMusa, Vakifli, thelastethnicArme- About 35kmwestof ontheslopes Antakya, Vak track leadingtotheright. The monastery liesabout2.5kmdownthe past Karaçay. After 4kmtheroadbranches. you couldwalk.Asignpointsuparoadjust about €17return, plusanhouratthesite, or The dolmu dolmu 438 © LonelyPlanetPublications junction withYavuz Caddesi. Selim Sultan stanbul visitinsummer.stanbul Thelocalchurch is You can take a taxi from themonasteryYou cantake for ataxi ı fl EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN ••AroundAntakya MEDITERRANEAN EASTERN ı ş ş

(€0.50,20minutes) fromAntakya. es from Antakya toSamanda es fromAntakya ş stand ison stand İ ş stiklal Caddesi. FromSamanda stiklal Caddesi. es journeytoVakifli day, every ğ you’llcometo and Çevlik İ stiklal Caddesi atthe stiklal Caddesi ğ (€0.50, ğ

a perfect picnicspot. provides adate forthework. At thefarendof thechannel aninscription torch sincethepathisstillpretty treacherous. Here, steps leaddowntothetunnel.Bringa humpback Romanbridge acrossthegorge. some rock-cutshelters, finallyarrivingata fork) which followsanirrigationcanalpast Then take thepathbehindarch (right archuntil youcometoametal ontheright. terrain. ratherthansandal sturdy-shoe great gorge. The walkisover rocks–definitely hillside, alongthechannel a andthrough which aguidewillaccompanyyouupthe you’ll have topaytheadmissionfee, after to thegate. Ifthere’s somebody in thebooth diversion channel aroundthetown. Vespasian ordered theirengineers todiga this threat, theRomanemperors Titus and thetown.Tocounterand flowedthrough a stream thatdescendedfromthemountains threatwith theconstant of inundationfrom lived Duringitsheyday,Seleucia engineering. Tüneli; admission€1) is the pretty dejected, butwhatyoucomehere for of is itself Antioch inancienttimes.Çevlik the scantruinsof hours. 30minutes(€0.50) every orsoduringdaylight Dolmu THERE&AWAYGETTING The slopesabove theRomanbridge provide If you’re notuptoit,followthechannel carpark,ascendthesteps From theÇevlik Titus &Vespasian Tunnel ş es run between Samanda es runbetween , anastonishingfeat of Roman Seleuceia-in-Pieria

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