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Home , Baden (wine region), Baiersbronn, Bretzfeld, Durbach, Gengenbach, Jagst

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T + 49 (0) 7 11 / 23 85 80 F + 49 (0) 7 11 / 2 38 58 99 @ [email protected] www.instagram.com/visitbawu #visitbawu WINE REGIONS GRAPE VARIETIES EAT, DRINK, SLEEP WINE AND DESIGN

WINE IN SouthWest Germany is Wine Country WINE FACTS Wine Hotels: SOUTHWEST The perfect nightcap The Romans planted vineyards here 1,800 years and Schwarzriesling / . Most ago. Today, grapes ripening on hillsides and ­winegrowers are members of co-ops, with 80 % GERMANY in valleys under hot summer sun produce wines cultivating less than one hectare / 2.5 acres 13 Enjoying a glass of excellent local wine is a have wine experts on staff, trained to give ad- that are among Europe’s most diverse. Choose of vines. Very little wine is exported or even official regions; must for visitors to SouthWest Germany. Even vice and answer wine tourism questions. white or red, dry or sweet; go for sparkling. sold outside this region: locals drink it all! Baden is the southernmost and better is a wine-themed holiday in the un­ sunniest spoiled countryside between Lake Constance Unique accommodation Of the two main wine areas, Baden is Germany’s Fun Fact: and the Taubertal Valley. Explore vineyards And there are unusual wine-themed places to southernmost. To the east of the River , One of Germany’s oldest family-owned wine- and villages; meet the winegrowers and wine- stay as well. In , for example, it stretches for 400 kilometres / 250 miles, from ries is the Weingut Fürst 40 makers; learn about wine heritage and tradi- deep in the Black Forest, the Wild family has Heidelberg to the Swiss border. It grows 60 % in Öhringen-Verrenberg, one hour northeast tions. And stay in comfortable hotels with spe- created Schlafen im Weinfass, unique accom- per cent of Baden vineyards white grapes, mainly Grauburgunder / of Stuttgart. Now run by the 27th generation, cial wine connections. modation in giant wine barrels. On a hillside grow red wine grapes, including and Müller-Thurgau. The 40 % red are mainly these vineyards in the Württemberg region amongst the vines, these can only be reached half of all German pinot noirs Spätburgunder / . Nicknamed the Wine date back to 1253. They make organic , Wine Hotels on foot; all are very private. Each ‘bed­room and Sparkling Wine Town, Breisach’s wine co- Lemberger and Spätburgunder / pinot noir Great grape varieties SouthWest Germany’s tourist board has inspec- barrel’ sleeps two; a separate barrel next door Wine and Design op is Europe's largest producer and the world’s ­wines. ted and approved some 60 Weinsüden ­Hotels. has the bathroom. Through glass doors, you fourth-biggest. Nearby, some of the region’s 50 Taken together, they cover all budgets and ran- look westwards over the Rhine valle­ y to . best vineyards are on the volcanic soil of the Wine Festivals co-operatives in Württemberg ge from country inns to luxury hotels in the And the best way to enjoy the spectacular Kaiserstuhl hills. produce 80 % of the region’s Riesling Weissburgunder ­five-star superior category. The most important ­sunsets? With a glass of Baden wine from the For a great day out, stop by one of the new-look façade, tiled roof and a big stone staircase out- 1 Stuttgart’s annual Wine Village festival boasts wines Germany’s best-known grape, Riesling is grown This fine greeny-gold white wine is the same factor, however, is not just comfort, but rather vineyards below, of course! contemporary wineries! Today’s wave of young side. In 2010, the Leiss Winery in Gellmersbach, 125 stalls, 500 local wines. Late Aug – early Sept. The other wine region is Württemberg, the only throughout the region. Subtle and sophisticat‑ as and thrives in the warm climate. a love and knowledge of wine. As well as offe- winemakers welcomes visitors in stylish build‑ north of Stuttgart, added an extension, built German area where red wine is the speciality. 2 Heilbronn’s Wine Village has music as well as local ed, with a balance of acidity and floral aromas, On the nose, think apple, pear, even mango; ring an extensive selection of regional wines, Near -Bottenau, in the Black Forest’s ings designed by top architects. of oak, sandstone and steel. The large windows wines. Mid-Sept. It centres on the Neckar River and its tributaries, 350 this is drunk young, but, on special­ ­occasions, on the palate, spicy and nutty tending to honey the establishments feature regular wine tastings Renchtal valley, families and couples love the offer grand views over the terrace to the vines. mainly north of Stuttgart. The small family- 3 Meersburg’s Lake Constance wine festival is all km: the length of the Württemberg aged. as it matures. and wine events for guests. The locations? Huber family’s Baumhaushotel: four cosy log East of on Lake Constance, the about local wine and food. Mid-Sept. run vineyards rise up steep slopes. About 70 % Wine Cycle Trail from Niederstetten to Some are in towns, others are surrounded by ­cabins on a hillside, with panoramic views over 300-year-old Gierer winery’s new centre is pale By contrast, Leissium is their ‘Besen’, a traditional of the vines produce red wine grapes, mainly 4 Connoisseurs flock to Freiburg’s wine festival in Rottenburg am Neckar (215 miles) vineyards; a few have wineries attached. All the Baden vineyards. wood, granite and glass. Look down ­through the vineyard restaurant, open just six weeks a year. Trollinger, Lemberger, Spätburgunder / pinot noir early July. Spätburgunder Schwarzriesling glass floor and you can see barrels resting in And, east of Stuttgart, the Wilhelm Kern winery German wine names may be unfamiliar, but Better known as pinot meunier, this produces the cellar. in Kernen im Remstal is one of Germany’s most Spätburgunder (it means late-ripening) is light, easy-drinking ruby red wines with the exciting new winery buildings. The ­larch-wood 70 the same as pinot noir. In Baden, think black- scent of red berries and a slight bittersweet In the Kaiserstuhl region near Freiburg, the three façade echoes the contours of the surrounding per cent of Württemberg berries and Morello cherries, a hint of spice ­finish. They can be dry, fruity or rich depen- levels of the Franz Keller winery in Vogtsburg- vineyards. Described as ‘functional with a touch vines are red grape varieties, and a good long finish. ding on the maker. Oberbergen are cleverly-terraced, built into the of lightness’, it was designated as an outstand‑ particularly Trollinger hillside with ‘green roofs’ that merge into the ing example of wine culture by the German Wine landscape. See the wine cellar; sample the wines; Institute. CH 460 Grauburgunder Trollinger eat at the Keller-Wirtschaft restaurant. Nearby, The German equivalent of pinot gris, Graubur- Nicknamed ‘Württemberg’s national drink’, the new building at the Holger Koch winery www.tourism-bw.com/things-to-do/wine-dine/ km: the length of the Baden Wine gunders are full-bodied and golden yellow, Trollinger is late-ripening and brick-red in reflects the traditional architecture of the Kaiser- great-wine/vineyard-architecture Cycle Path from Laudenbach to the with flavours ranging from peach and quince ­colour, perfect with hearty, rustic, local dishes stuhl region. Plain and simple, it has a white Swiss border (285 miles) to walnut and almond. Sometimes appears such as Zwiebelrostbraten (ribeye steak on wine lists as Ruländer. with crispy onion).

GOURMET REGIONS RECIPE TRADITIONAL DISHES GOURMET RESTAURANTS

SOUTHWEST Local favourites FOOD FACTS Dishes with a tale to tell GERMANY – Eating ‘fresh and local’ is normal in South- Prices are good value. The mantra is: Food plays a key role in the history and identity West Germany. Farmers’ markets sell seasonal Happy children = happy parents! of SouthWest Germany. Take Maultaschen, A GOURMET and often organic fruit and veg. the Swabian ‘national dish’. According to le- Don’t miss: 500 gend, the ravioli-like pasta was created at DESTINATION Do you like pretzels? They were invented in Bad Vesper or Bauernvesper. Theoretically a snack, years ago, a baker in Maulbronn Monastery in the 17th century. One Urach. What about Black Forest Gateau? The this is more like a hearty afternoon picnic, Bad Urach invented the Brother Jakob longed for meat, which was real thing is a revelation: chocolate, cream, cher- with wooden platters of smoked Black Forest pretzel (or Brezel in banned during Lent. He made pasta ‘pockets’ ries and schnapps. The Black Forest is also ham, home-made sausage, gherkins, cheese, and ‘hid’ minced meat in them, so God German) the home of delicately-smoked Black Forest ham. organic farmer’s breads – and, perhaps, a glass wouldn’t notice. Learn more on a monastery of schnapps! 1915 tour; afterwards, order Maultaschen at

Other menu favourites? Maultaschen (Swabian- the year Josef Keller the monast­ ery’s Klosterschmiede restaurant. SouthWest Germany is a style ravioli); Zwiebelrostbraten (rib-eye steak created Black Forest foodie destination, from with crispy onions); Spätzle (delicate egg noo­ Taste Treats Black Forest Gateau Gateau; his recipe is Fun Fact: modern gourmet dishes to dles). Kässpätzle is similar to mac ‘n’ cheese still used at Triberg’s Locals refer to Maultaschen as Enjoy Maultaschen at Stuttgart-Untertürkheim’s traditional treats and a favourite with children. Zwiebelkuchen 1 Save room for dessert! A slice (or two) For the cake: Herrgottsb’scheisserle, roughly Alte Kelter Café Schaefer is like onion and bacon quiche; Ofenschlupfer of Black Forest Gateau is a revelation! Preheat oven to 180–200 °C. Beat eggs and sugar for translated as Fooling the Dear Lord. www.altekelter.com is the Swabian version of apple pie; Limpurger Ingredients include dark chocolate, about 15 minutes until fluffy. Sift flour and cocoa; 2 25 is top-quality beef; Felchen is a white fish from Order Black Forest Gateau at Freiburg’s Café Schmidt cream and Kirsch (cherry schnapps), ­carefully fold in. Bake in a greased springform tin, per cent of Germany's Lake Constance. Breakfast is fulsome, with www.cafeschmidt.de made from local fruit. approx. 30 minutes. To get a level cake, allow to cool ­Michelin-starred restaurants ­healthy options, such as fresh fruit, ­yoghurt, 3 Have a Black Forest Vesper in Baiersbronn’s upside down. Tip: For best results, make the cake Brezels / pretzels are baked fresh everywhere. Star chefs eggs and breads. Murgstube the day before serving. are in SouthWest Germany Not those little crunchy snacks. These are www.hotel-sackmann.de CAKE 400 thick, soft inside, crisp on the outside and for- galore! And SouthWest Germany is so family-friendly. 4 Eat Lake Constance fish at Meersburg’s • 250 g sugar For the filling: med in three loops. Back in the 15th century, years ago, Jakob, a monk, Restaurants and cafés welcome children, as Badische Weinstube • 300 g flour Whip the cream and sugar until stiff. (If not serving this unique shape was created by a baker in do taverns, beer gardens and wine terraces. www.badische-weinstube.com • 2 tsp cocoa powder the same day, add gelatine to the cream). Dissolve invented the ravioli-like Bad Urach. He had annoyed Count Eberhard SouthWest Germany is the nation’s gourmet park restaurant to gain a star is in SouthWest • 7 eggs corn flour in a little cherry juice. Bring the rest of Maultaschen that is and was threatened with hanging – but given ­capital, with one quarter of all the country’s Germany: Ammolite – The Lighthouse Restau- the cherry juice to the boil, add the dissolved corn Swabia’s national dish one last chance. ‘Bake some bread through Michelin stars on the annual lists from the rant at Europa-Park. In fact, it now boasts DECORATION flour and bring back to boil, while stirring continuous- which the sun shines three times and I will free French foodie publication. No other federal two stars! And, at Stuttgart airport, top air has • Cherries, pitted ly. Take off the heat. Add cherries and cool. 2 you.’ Hey presto: the pretzel. Some say the ­state can match such an accolade! long been the world’s only Michelin-starred • Grated dark chocolate ­design recreated his wife’s crossed arms, or ­restaurant actually at an airport. But SouthWest Michelin stars held by Ammolite – Assembling the Gateau: even arms crossed in prayer. In Bad Urach, The most famous gourmet destination of all is Germany’s culinary map has more than FILLING Cut the cake into 3 equal layers. Add approx. The Lighthouse Restaurant at a plaque by the Café BeckaBeck tells the tale. Baiersbronn, a pretty resort community deep top-of-the-range restaurants extolled by food • 1.2 l cream, chilled 20 ml of Kirsch to the cherry mixture and spread Europa-Park: the world’s first theme in the Black Forest. For many years, three res- critics. Dozens of family-run places have the • 50 g sugar evenly on the first layer. Cover with some of the park restaurant to gain a star But the region’s most famous indulgence is taurants here have shared eight Michelin stars Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand. Given in recog- • 3 sheets gelatine ­­cream. ­Carefully put another cake layer on top; Black Forest Gateau. Pastry chef Josef Keller is between them. Among other high-fliers is Chef nition of value for money, high-quality pro- • 400 g sour / Morello cherries, pitted drizzle with Kirsch and cover with cream. Repeat 1932 credited with inventing it in 1915. Taste the Douce Steiner, the first woman in Germany to duce and great service, this commendation is • 0.25 l cherry juice with the third layer. Put the remaining cream into a the year Clara Ritter invented a real thing at Triberg’s Café Schaefer, which still receive two Michelin stars. Discover why at her a great honour among restaurateurs. Yet • 4 tsp corn flour piping bag and pipe onto top and sides. Spread square chocolate bar in Walden- has Keller’s original hand-written recipe! family’s Hotel and Restaurant Hirschen in Sulz- again, SouthWest Germany has more of these • 50 – 100 ml Kirsch (cherry schnapps) evenly. Finally, pipe cream rosettes in a circle on the burg, south of Freiburg. The world’s first theme than any other region in Germany. buch: Ritter Sport was born top of the cake. Add a cherry to each rosette. Put grated chocolate on the sides. Chill well before serving your authentic Black Forest Gateau.

BEER CULTURE BREWERIES BEER FESTIVALS

BEER IN Welcome to the Land of 1,000 Beers! BEER FACTS Germany’s best beer festivals SOUTHWEST SouthWest Germany is home to 180 breweries and best-known is the Cannstatter Wasen, Drawing crowds for 200 years, the Cannstatter seven vast tents seat as many as 5,000 enthu‑ that produce about 1,000 different beers. The the Stuttgart Beer Festival. But there are many Wasen, the Stuttgart Beer Festival, is the siasts. But they go to the Wasen for more than GERMANY best conform to Germany's 500-year-old purity smaller, local celebrations across the region: world’s second largest – and the most authen- beer: there are crispy pork knuckles, whole laws, which mandate that only four ingredients all are great fun, with food and music as well 180 tic. What started as an agricultural fair back ­roast chickens and live music. Plus Europe's may be used: malt, water, hops and yeast. as excellent beer! breweries in SouthWest in 1818 has developed into a 17-day-long event, biggest funfair, with roller-coasters, big wheels Germany produce some running from late September to mid-October. and tons of family fun. But the old days are Locals drink local, often at small breweries and Tip: It all kicks off with a keg tapping by Stuttgart’s not forgotten. Dominating the scene is a soaring 1,000 different beers micro-breweries that have been family-owned Follow etiquette when you toast. Make direct 1,000 mayor, who draws the first beer from a barrel column. Decorated with ­fruit and veg, this is for generations. Every brewer offers variations eye contact with each person as you clink of specially-brewed Festbier (festival beer). Next a reminder that the first fair was a harvest fes- m (3,300 ft) up in the on favourite styles, from the ever-popular Pils ­glasses and never cross arms – or risk bad luck! up is a parade through the city streets, with tival. Smaller beer festivals in SouthWest (dry, hoppy flavours) and Hefeweizen or Weizen- Black Forest: Rothaus ­floats, tractors, ­horses pulling brewers’ drays, ­Germany include the Historic Beer Festival in bier (made from wheat) to Kellerbier / Lager- is Germany’s highest plus groups of enthusiastic singers and dan- Zwiefalten, the Ganter ­Oktoberfest in Freiburg, bier (like a British draught bitter). And there are Beer Gardens brewery cers ­wearing Swabian costume. the Distelhäuser festival in Tauberbischofsheim seasonal beers, which range from Maibock, a and the Ulrichsfest in Ehingen. 1 Rauschbart in Horb. Overlooking the Neckar Valley, Special places; spring lager, to strong Bocks and Altbiers (dark Festival-central is the Cannstatter Wasen, the shaded by trees 1150 beer). meadows on the edge of Stuttgart, where www.cannstatter-volksfest.de/en www.rauschbart.de the year that the hops special brews Neckarmüller Tübingen. Right on the river in this In beer gardens and taverns, these are served 2 of Tettnang, near Lake university town in specific and elegant glasses. Weizenbier, Constance, were first www.neckarmueller.de for example, always comes in a tall narrow glass. documented In the Black Forest Highlands, the Rothaus it can rightly claim to be Germany’s Beer Cul- But beer tastes are not stuck in the past. In 3 Hafenhalle Konstanz. On the Marina, overlooking brewery dates back to 1791. Using water from ture City. Follow the beer-themed walking trail; ­recent years, there has been a boom in craft Lake Constance seven nearby springs, its output includes stroll to the breweries; relax in the beer gar- Publishing details brewing, with young brewers creating beers www.hafenhalle.de 53 ­Tannenzäpfle, a Pilsner that is a cult favourite dens. Photo credits with funky names and striking flavours. Enjoy 4 Carl’s Brauhaus Stuttgart. Hip and modern, different beers made by five in Germany and one of the world’s top Publisher Cover: TMBW / Christoph Düpper; Introduction: TMBW / the region’s variety year round, but especially right on the grand Schlossplatz breweries make Ehingen beers. Take the 90-minute behind-the-scenes Northeast of Stuttgart is Crailsheim, where the Tourismus Marketing GmbH Baden-Württemberg Gregor Lengler in autumn during beer-festival season. Biggest www.carls-brauhaus.de tour; see the museum; stay in the brewery’s Engel brewery dates back to 1738. Their brews p. 2 f. l. t. r.: Kraichgau-Stromberg Tourismus e. V. / Carsten ‘the Beer Culture City’ Esslinger Straße 8, 70182 Stuttgart own historic inn. include the powerful malty Engel Gold and Götze; TMBW / Christoph Düpper; TMBW / Christoph Düpper; the easy-drinking Volksfestbier, brewed for the Coordination TMBW / Christoph Düpper; Tourist-Info Sasbachwalden / Steffen Egly 2015; TMBW / Udo Bernhart; trickytine / Christine Garcia 1200 TMBW, JUNG:Kommunikation GmbH Southeast of Stuttgart is Sigmaringen, whose Stuttgart Beer Festival, where they have been Urbina; TMBW / Christoph Düpper; trickytine / Christine Garcia beer mugs are in the Zoller-Hof brewery produces the award-winning regulars for 120 years. Concept and design Urbina; trickytine / Christine Garcia Urbina; trickytine / Christine Garcia Urbina; TMBW / Christoph Düpper; TMBW / Christoph Schussenried’s Bierkrug Old Fred amber lager. It commemorates JUNG:Kommunikation GmbH Düpper; TMBW / Christoph Düpper; TMBW / Christoph Düpper; Sigmaringen Castle’s royal brewer, Friedrich For contemporary flavour, head for Karlsruhe’s Museum, the world’s only TMBW / Christoph Düpper; TMBW / Achim Mende beer mug museum Müller. Some 150 years ago, he changed Vogelbräu brewery, where master brewer his name to Miller and moved to Milwaukee, Rudi Vogel has been making his unfiltered beer Print 4 USA. His Miller Brewing Co is now one of since 1985. C. Maurer GmbH & Co. KG Geislingen an der Steige ingredients – water, malt, America’s most famous. yeast and hops – are all www.tourism-bw.com/things-to-do/wine-dine/beer Published in 2020 All information subject to change without prior notice. that can be used, by law, Not far away is Ehingen. With five breweries, 53 beers and a centuries-old brewing history, for German beer