M * Fuul Mudammas * Recipe Fuul Mudammas

Egypt’s breakfast of champions is the country’s national dish. Served up YOU'LL NEED METHOD as a sandwich fi ller, this spice-fest of a stew keeps the 80-million-strong 2 cups of dried broad beans (fava Broad Beans population on the move throughout the day. beans) – the small, round kind (or Note: you can skip this step by using canned beans. cheat by using 4 cups canned cooked 1. Soak the dried fava beans in cold water for 24 hours (make sure beans) they are completely covered by the water), then drain and rinse. 7 cups of water What is It? Tasting 2. In a large pot bring 7 cups of water to the boil. Forget waking up to cornfl akes or muesli. This broad Wafts of hang over the street. Some of the 1 , fi nely diced 3. Add the fava beans to the pot and boil for 10–15 minutes, bean (fava bean) dish is a high-energy, supremely swelling crowd are clutching empty containers ready 3–4 garlic cloves, fi nely chopped making sure to skim any foam off the top. nutritious kick-start to your day. Slow-cooked, until to be fi lled. Squeeze your way up to the front, where 1 , fi nely chopped easily mashed, the broad beans are mixed with the vendor is working up a sweat and the customers 4. Reduce heat, cover pot and leave to simmer for eight hours. ⅛ cup squeezed lemon juice tomatoes, onion, garlic and lemon juice, spiced with are yelling with impatience. You’re handed a simple 5. After simmering for eight hours, check for dryness. If too dry, and , and drizzled with sandwich, spread with a generous dollop of fuul ½ tsp cumin add boiling water to the pot. oil. Spooned into a fresh pita pocket, it’s the perfect and garnished with fresh, crunchy salad. ½ tsp chilli powder 6. Cover and cook on a low heat for another two hours. breakfast on the run. The fi rst bite reveals the soft, comforting texture of pinch of turmeric beans and . As you chew, the tart zing of lemon, pinch of cayenne pepper Fuul the peppery taste of cumin and the powerful punch of pinch of 1. In a large frying pan, saute the diced onion until translucent. Origin garlic come into play. It’s hearty and wholesome, and 2. Add garlic and fry on a low heat for two to three minutes. The fava bean used for fuul mudammas (often simply surprisingly fi lling. Your pita is fi nished. You look back salt called fuul) is known in as fuul-hammam due to at the crowd and nod at their intelligence. Next time pepper 3. Add the chopped tomato to the pan and fry for approximately you’re bringing a pot to fi ll as well. a quirky medieval business monopoly on production. olive oil to taste another fi ve minutes (until the tomato is at the stage where it is starting to come apart). Having stoked the great fi res for Cairo’s Princess pita bread Public Baths all day, the hammam attendants came hard-boiled eggs (optional) 4. Transfer the frying-pan mix to the pot of beans. up with a great idea: they’d use the leftover embers to 5. Stir in the lemon juice, all the spices and seasonings and olive oil. slow-cook great vats of fuul overnight to be ready for fetta (optional) the breakfast rush. Their ingenious plan proved a hit, 6. On a low heat, leave to cook for 15–20 minutes. and every morning they had all of Cairo clamouring at tomatoes 7. Using a potato masher, mash mixture together to a consistency their door. cucumber of your liking (or for a less chunky version put it in a blender until smooth). 8. Serve in bowls (drizzled with extra olive oil) with pita bread, Finding It hard-boiled eggs, chunks of fetta, and a simple salad of parsley, Seek out Muhammad Ali’s fuul cart, beside Qasr tomatoes and cucumber for an authentic Egyptian breakfast. Beshtak, just off Sharia Al-Muizz li-Din Allah, in Islamic Cairo. Expect to pay 1.25EGP (US$0.20). SERVES 4

* VARIATIONS * Endlessly adaptable, fuul comes in many guises. Fuul Iskandariya, which hails from the coastal city of Alexandria, combines an extra-peppery fuul mix with a hot and spicy tomato-salsa-like sauce. For a naughty version of this nutritious snack, look out for fuul bi samna, which totally trips up the healthy contents of this dish NOTE Swap and change seasoning by adding lashings of clarified butter. BOAZROTTEM | ALAMY © measurements to suit your tastes.

By Jessica Lee THE WORLD'S BEST STREET FOOD | 63 * *

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218 18

8 Authors

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* has eaten herway across fi restaurant chapters to numerous guidebooks, and at www.WanderlustandLipstick.com, contributes professional cook. guidebooks and lonelyplanet.com anderstwhile Kitchen, writer of food sections for Lonely Planet street food). sumptuous, tangled Planet India, andenthusiastic researcher of the Austin Bush Amy Karafi Abigail Hole Duncan Garwood Daniel Robinson Daniel SaveryRaz Celeste Brash Carolyn BHeller Bridget Gleeson Laos, Turkey, Malaysia andNew Zealand. explorer, andcookery-class attendee in Vietnam, www.viewauckland.co.nz, habitualstreet-food Brett Atkinson scout of dirt-cheap, vegetarian food theworld over. resident of Dakar, Accra andBombay, andmaster France, Malaysia, Tunisia, CambodiaandIsrael. Lonely Planet guides –to culinaryhot-spots suchas often hunts for . See www.danscribe.com. devoured Europe for A Place intheSunmagazine and Sky andLuxuryLatin America magazines. and authorof food articles for Budget Travel,Delta guide. magazine and co-authored Lonely Planet's Italian food whohaswritten for BBC's and DestinAsian. Travel +Leisure Southeast Asia, ChilePepper, guidebooks andmagazines includingSaveur, .austinbushphotography.com, food writer for * ContributingAuthors n Writer of Thai food blogwww

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Magazine UK, andasucker for anything hot, fried. www.thehappydiner.wordpr 15 Lonely Planet titles, freelance correspondent for perfect hummus. Levantine cuisinefoodie, still searching for the in theMiddleEast andNorth Africa, andavid Michael Kohn Meredith Snyder Matt Bolton Luke Waterson Kate Armstrong Joshua SamuelBrown Johanna Uy Joe Bindloss Jessica Lee Gregor Clark Ethan Gelber Emily Matchar street food, andpastel denata ‘a Planet Portugal, enthusiastic writer of articles on Taiwanese travel blogSnarky Tofu. and newspapers around Asia andmaintains Planet guides; restaurant reviewer for magazines commissioning editor. Indian subcontinent, andcurrent Lonely Planet from Southeast Asia, China, Korea andthe Out .thetravelword.com andpassionate food lover. Planet publications, editor-in-chief of www Shoestring (Uruguay) and Italy. guidebooks includingBrazil, South America ona Travel and Vagabondish.com. her travel writinghasappeared ontheweb atBBC out inthekitchen andsampling street food inParis; salteña addict, Andes obsessive. author for Lonely Planet’s Peru, Mexico andCuba, l Trave than adozen Lonely Planet guides. magazines andnewspapers, andco-author of more 's restaurant guides, specialisinginfood magazine, long-time Latin American traveller, Guidebook authorandtour leader Senior staff Food writer andblogger at

Former food criticfor Time Co-author of many Lonely Planet Contributor to various Lonely

Author orco-author onmore than Culture andfood writer for Food anddrinkeditor for Real Author of food chapter for Lonely Spent herchildhoodhelping writer atLonely Planet Co-author of nineLonely ess.com. fi cionado’. fl at and Olive. and travel writers for various magazines including Roving Gastronome (rovinggastronome.com). Put theParty back inDinnerParty andbloggingat for allthings spicy. Eat series andproli fi and customer atstreetside charcoal grills. traveller to Turkey, theBalkans andtheMiddleEast, bazaars. BBC, andfan of spicy snacks from Central Asian Recipes suppliedby Zora O'Neill Will Gourlay Tim Richards Sarina Singh Sarah Baxter Roger NorumandStrouchanMartins Rob Whyte Penny Watson Paul Clammer iwriter.com.au); andamateur dukkah connoisseur foreign food delights for many publications (see and nationalnewspapers, andCornish pasty lover. travel magazine, contributor to Lonely Planet books time glutton. South ChinaMorningPost Food & Wine, andfull- Eats Gourlay, ZoraO’Neill Roger Norum, Sarah Baxter, Tim Richards, Will Kohn, Paul Clammer, Penny Watson, Rob Whyte, Waterson, Matt Bolton, Meredith Snyder, Michael Joshua Samuel Brown, Kate Armstrong, Luke Ormond, Jessic Garwood, Emily Matchar, Ethan Gelber, Jane Daniel Savery Raz, Daniel Robinson, Duncan Brett Atkinson, Bridget Gleeson, Celeste Brash, currently asguidebookauthor. 1994 – South Korea resident andhotteok enthusiast. guide, Sydney MorningHerald GoodFood, fi rst astraveller, thenastour guideand

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