Appendix: Brief Biographies of Newspaper Fashion Editors

appendix: Brief Biographies of Newspaper Fashion Editors

In the post-World War II years, there was at least one fashion editor at every American metropolitan newspaper. Newspapers in New York City and Washington, D.C., often had several women who covered fashion. Below are short descriptions of fashion editors based on stories from their newspapers and a few oral histories. When known, marital status and children are included. It is hoped that this is the beginning of the scholarship about who these women were and what they achieved.

Nadeane Walker Anderson Nadeane Walker Anderson was a fashion reporter for the Associated Press. She was born in 1921 on the family farm, near Canton, Texas, the second youngest child of nine. She earned her degree from North Texas State and went to work as a reporter for the Fort Worth Star Telegram. In 1945, after writing a story on the Women’s Air Corps, she enlisted and applied to work overseas. She was assigned to a post in England where she sur- vived the bombing. As a reporter for Stars and Stripes, she worked in France and Germany after the war, meeting the love of her life, Godfrey Anderson, an English war correspondent for the Associated Press. They married in Frankfurt in 1946 and lived in Germany, Belgium, and Sweden before settling in France and starting their family. In Paris she worked as a fashion editor covering the shows in Paris, Milan, and London. In 1961 the family moved to England where she wrote celebrity interviews. In

© The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature 143 Switzerland AG 2021 K. W. Voss, Newspaper Fashion Editors in the 1950s and 60s, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-73624-8 144 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS

1970 she brought the family to the United States where she worked for the Dallas Times Herald as an investigative reporter.

Marylin Bender Marylin Bender was a fashion editor and later business editor at the New York Times. She graduated from Smith College in 1944 and earned a law degree from Columbia Law School in 1947—although she never prac- ticed. Bender started her journalism career after school covering the crime beat for the New York Journal American in the early 1950s. Later, she joined the New York Times where she worked for 32 years, covering fashion and later business. She was the frst woman editor of the New York Times business section.. She wrote several books, including The Beautiful People in 1967. Bender was named to the New York Women in Communication’s Matrix Hall of Fame in 1972 and received the Smith College Medal in 1978. She married and had a child.

Mary Alice Bookhart Mary Alice Bookhart was from Little Rock, Arkansas. Her frst job was as a reporter at the Pine Bluff Graphic. In 1942 she joined The Clarion- Ledger (Jackson, Mississippi) where she worked as the women’s page editor and the fashion editor. She was a president of the Jackson Symphony League and a supporter of the arts. She was married and had two children. She retired in 1977.

Marian Christy Fashion editor Marian Christy (later a celebrity interviewer) attended Boston University. She soon started writing about fashion for Women’sWear Daily. She moved on to the Boston Globe and became fashion editor in 1965. She won several Penney-Missouri Awards for her fashion coverage. This is how she described going to the Award ceremony: “The late Professor Paul Myhre told me that I had set new standards of fashion journalism by making daring and dazzling comments on social pretentions and he said, ‘trailed fashion frst behind me like gold confetti.’ It was heady stuff.” Her frst Globe assignment in Europe became prize-winning pieces from couture salons in Paris, Rome, Madrid, and Dublin. She later traveled to Tehran to cover the then-Empress of Iran, an international APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 145 fashion fgure. When she wrote a fashion story, she took it further than simply describing the style and focused on history and sociology. For example, writing about the mini skirt, Christy asked, “Why—what inspired the mini-skirt? What is the philosophy behind it?” Following an early retirement from the Globe after 26 years in 1991, Christy became a contributor to the New York Times Syndicate.

Barbara Cloud Barbara Cloud was the longtime fashion editor at the Pittsburgh Press. Born in 1930, Cloud graduated from Westminster College in New Wilmington, Pennsylvania, in 1951. She majored in speech and drama. Her frst newspaper job was at the Uniontown Evening Standard newspaper in 1951 as a personals column writer where she spent fve years. In her early years at her frst newspaper job, she asked “not to be trained” as a journalist because it was a temporary position; she was more interested in being an actress. She wrote about weddings and club notices. Cloud had no typing skills or journalism experience when she arrived in her new city in April 1957—wearing the typical hat and gloves of the time—to apply for a reporting job with the Pittsburgh Press. She spent more than three decades at the newspaper, with most of those years spent covering the fashion industry. In July 1966, Cloud married but marriage did not last long. She found herself a pregnant divorcee, which was somewhat scandal- ous for the time. In 1971, she became a single mother at age 41. A pioneer for a working mother in the newsroom, she found a way to continue her career. She spent ffteen years at the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette and retired in 2008.

Richard Cobb Richard Cobb was the only male newspaper fashion editor mentioned in media articles. A prior police reporter, he was both the women’s page editor and fashion editor at the Virginia-Pilot newspaper. He appeared on the television game show, “What’s My Line?” in 1958. (The panel could not guess his job.) An article noted that he was the “lone wolf” out of 206 women fashion editors at the New York Dress Institute’s fall show. He fled two stories a day and described bell skirts and empire silhouettes from the fashion shows. In the few articles about him, reporters mentioned his masculine height and build. 146 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS

Mattie Smith Colin Mattie Smith was the fashion editor at the Chicago Defender. She was born in Chicago and was a graduate of Chicago Public Schools. She studied journalism at Roosevelt and Northwestern Universities. “She was the kind of person that understood the importance of being well-informed, so journalism was a natural ft,” said her cousin Anne Fredd. In 1950, Colin was hired by the Chicago Defender, largely considered to be the nation’s most infuential black weekly newspaper, with more than two-thirds of its readership outside of Chicago. Colin was best known for reporting from a Chicago train station in 1955 on the return of Emmett Till’s body. Colin captured the anguish of Till’s mother as her young, Black son, slain in Mississippi after allegedly whistling at a white woman, was returned to Chicago.

Madeliene Corey Madeliene Corey was a graduate of the Rhode Island School of Design. Initially, she planned to be a painter but switched her major to education. She taught at Hope High School for only one day before resigning: “I hated it,” she said. She was hired as a feature writer at the Providence Journal-Bulletin in 1933. She said: “I sold myself. I could writer features and illustrate them.” This led to a decorating column and then the fashion beat. She could be funny and blunt in her responses to fashion questions. At one point, she told badly dressed readers that they could continue to wear their clothes as long as they did not mind looking like overstuffed chairs. She retired in 1980. The newspaper threw her a celebration at the Biltmore Plaza Hotel—to a large crowd including the mayor. At the end of the evening, she responded: “Tonight, I love you all. In 24 hours I’ll be fond of you. By next week, I’ll hate your guts.” She had married and had a son.

Eleni Epstein Washington Starfashion editor Eleni Epstein was one of the most notice- able Washington, D.C., voices in translating fashion news in the post- World War II era. Epstein found fashion to have a unique role in Washington society. After all, as she pointed out, it was her city’s unique APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 147 social events that required the high couture clothing that she wrote about. It was a world that Epstein circulated within and would share with her readers as someone who could rarely afford many of the fashions she wrote about. Yet, she also wrote about the fashions of working women. She encouraged her readers to shop in Washington and would be insulted when she learned they instead had gone to New York City for their clothes. She won numerous reporting awards including the frst Penney-Missouri Award for fashion journalism. Her papers are available in the National Women & Media Collection.

Fay Hammond Fay Hammond was a fashion editor of the Los Angeles Times for more than two decades. She retired in 1969. A native of California, Hammond came to the Times in 1940, became a fashion writer and then became fashion editor in 1943. She was among the few fashion writers traveling to European capitals for showings after World War II and had been honored by the French and Italian governments for her contributions to fashion journalism. She appeared on local radio and TV stations as a fashion authority. She had a daughter.

Nora Hampton Nora Hampton was the longtime fashion editor of the Oakland Tribune. Hampton began her career as a reporter in Texas and later worked for United Press International. She then did publicity work for presidents Harry S. Truman and Dwight D. Eisenhower. She created a new fashion section in 1960. In her job, she traveled through Europe and had an exclusive interview with Wallis Simpson, the woman for whom King Edward VIII gave up his thrown. In 1969, her fight from Oakland to New York was hijacked to Cuba. Ever a reporter, she went through the hijacker’s carry-on luggage and discovered his identity. She waited until she had given the scoop to her newspaper before she spoke to the FBI. She was nominated for a Pulitzer Prize for her frst-hand account of the airline hijacking. In 1967, the City of Oakland deemed it Nora Hampton Day. She was married to John Hampton, a retired Marine who in the late 1940s helped launch the Marines’ famous “Toys for Tots” program. 148 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS

Dorothy Hawkins/Dorothy Le Sueur Dorothy Hawkins joined the New York Times in 1952 as an assistant to the New York Times Fashion Editor Virginia Pope. A native of Dallas, Texas, she started at Southern Methodist University and eventually earned fne arts and home economics degrees at Texas State College for Women. She then worked at Mademoiselle magazine and as an Atlanta, Georgia, department store copyrighter and illustrator. She spent a year in Paris before starting at the newspaper. She married Larry Le Sueur, a correspondent for CBS News, in 1957, and changed her byline. She worked as a fashion editor at the Washington Post from 1965 to 1972. They had a daughter.

Graydon Heartsill A Dallas native, Graydon Heartsill was the fashion editor at the Dallas Times Herald. She earned a journalism degree from Southern Methodist University where she served as a campus correspondent for the Dallas Dispatch. After graduating in 1928, she began work at the Dallas Times Herald where she remained for decades. In 1943, she covered the frst national press week of the New York Dress Institute and became the newspaper’s fashion editor. She reported on the Chicago, St. Louis, San Francisco, and Miami fashion markets. She twice covered the European fashion shows. She won a Penney-Missouri Award in 1963 for fashion reporting.

Freddye Scarborough Henderson Freddye Scarborough Henderson was born in Louisiana in 1917 and earned a bachelor’s degree in home economics from Southern University and a degree in fashion merchandising from New York University in 1950. From 1944 to 1950 Henderson owned a dress shop in Atlanta. In 1950 Henderson became a fashion editor for the Associated Negro Press and wrote a fashion column that ran in many American Black newspapers. She married Jacob R. Henderson in Georgia in 1941. Later, Henderson and her husband created the Henderson Travel Service located in Atlanta. They worked with civil rights leaders such as Andrew Young and Martin Luther King, Jr., to arrange travel for African Americans. APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 149

Mary Brandel Hopkins Mary Brandel Hopkins was a fashion editor at the Madison Capital News in Wisconsin. She earned a journalism degree from the University of Wisconsin in 1927. After graduation, she began her career as the society editor at the Capital Times. She soon earned a master’s degree and became the women’s page editor. She and her husband founded the Hopkins Agricultural Chemical Company of Madison in 1949. She remained at the Capital Times until her retirement in 1976. She married and had two children.

Nina Hyde Nina Hyde was a fashion editor at two Washington, D.C., newspapers. She was born in New York and graduated from Smith College. She was one of only two women accepted at the time to New York University’s Law School. Instead, she dropped out to work for the advertising agency McCann-Erickson and the Maidenform Brassiere Company. Later she became the corset and brassiere editor at industry publication Women’sWear Daily. In 1961, after marrying Lloyd Hyde, a real estate developer, she moved to Washington where she wrote the column “Hyde & Chic” for the Washington Daily News. After that newspaper folded, she joined the Washington Post in 1972. Hyde received the Eugenia Sheppard Award for outstanding fashion reporting by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and she was made a Chevalier des Artes et Lettres in Paris. She died at age 57 after a long bout with breast cancer. Prior to her death, she had raised nearly $2 million for Georgetown University Medical Center, which established the Nina Hyde Center for Breast Cancer Research.

Marji Kunz Detroit fashion editor Marji Kunz graduated from Wayne State University and worked at both Glamour and Mademoiselle magazines before joining the Detroit Free Press in 1964. Ultimately she worked as a fashion editor for both of the city’s newspapers. Kunz died of complications from pneu- monia in 1979 at age 40. Her death was covered in the New York Times. Wayne State University gives out a scholarship in her name for students majoring in fashion. She was married. 150 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS

Vivian Kwatzsky Vivian Kwatzsky was the fashion editor at the Milwaukee Sentinel. She was born in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, in 1929. She earned a bachelor’s degree in English from Mount Mary College and taught for two years. She began working at the Milwaukee Sentinel where she eventually headed a one- woman fashion department in 1964. She covered the semiannual New York fashion shows and those in California, as well as the European shows. She produced three special fashion sections each year. She won a Penney- Missouri Award for her fashion reporting. In her biography for the award, she wrote: “Miss Kawatzky has no hobbies aside from reading and brood- ing. She is as yet unmarried, but is frmly convinced that the race is not necessarily to the swiftly inclined.”

Judy Lunn Judy Lunn was the fashion editor of the Houston Post. Fashion was part of her family’s history. Her grandfather was a furrier. Her aunt was a lingerie designer who created a trousseau for Elizabeth Taylor when she married Eddie Fisher and a maternity gown for Lucille Ball. Lunn won her frst writing award at age 9 for a story on fre prevention. And while she had a knack for writing, it was fashion that caught her interest. She attended the Rhode Island School of Design to study fashion design. In college she met her husband, Robert, and they relocated to Houston in 1968. She took time off to be a stay-at-home mother for her two daughters, Linda and Susan. It was her daughter Linda who led to the post of fashion writer. In hopes of earning some change, she knocked on a neighbor’s door with an offer to recite the Pledge of Allegiance for a quarter. That neighbor was the fashion editor of the Houston Post, Lynn Van Deusen. She asked to meet the mother of the smart child and her fashion journalism career began in 1971. Lunn developed the “Fashion Today” section for the Post and won many national fashion prizes with that section, including a Penney-Missouri Award. In 1992, she received the frst George A. Hough III Award for Overall Superiority in Reporting on the Apparel Industry, a lifetime achievement award. Lunn’s sudden death came from a reaction to a common insect bite in 2003. APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 151

Marylou Luther Marylou Luther majored in journalism at the University of Nebraska- Lincoln. After graduation, she worked for the Lincoln Journal, “where I wrote about weddings, engagements and moved my editor’s car every two hours so she wouldn’t get a ticket.” She moved on to the Des Moines Register and was assigned the style beat. She replied: “I don’t know a thing about fashion.” Her editor responded: “You’ll learn.” She did. She later became the Chicago Tribune fashion editor before joining the Los Angeles Times as fashion and beauty editor in 1969. Since 1985, she has been fashion editor for the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. At one point, her weekly fashion column, “Clothesline,” was read by more than 30 million people weekly. Luther interviewed numerous signifcant designers during the more than two decades she covered fashion shows. Those interactions could be a challenge. “When you cover a beat, the danger is in getting too friendly with the people you cover,” she said. Luther said her journalism was not “criticism” in the typical sense. When writing about fashion, she said, “I try to tell the news and put it into perspective.” She writes for her readers, rather than the designers she covers. Still, designer Todd Oldham said about Luther, “She can make fashion writing interesting to a truck driver.” She later became the creative director of Fashion Group International, editor of the International Fashion Syndicate and was a CFDA Award winner.

Drue Lytle Drue Lytle was the women’s page editor and fashion editor at the Honolulu Advertiser. A native of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, Druzella Goodwin earned a bachelor’s degree from the University of California, Los Angeles, in 1926. She worked for more than two years for the State Department in Washington, D.C. She then earned her master’s degree in English from Occidental College, known as Oxy, a small liberal arts college in Los Angeles, in 1937. Lytle’s thesis was “A Study of the Plays of Rachel Crothers.” Her frst husband was John Terry, a correspondent for the Chicago Daily News. The couple moved to Hawaii in 1938 where he worked for the Honolulu Advertiser. He was killed in 1944 while covering the invasion of the Philippines. Later, she married journalist Hugh Lytle in April 1947, who was then night managing editor of the Honolulu 152 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS

Advertiser. He was the journalist whose teletype message provided the Associated Press and the world with the frst account of the attack on Pearl Harbor.

Bobbi McCallum Bobbi McCallum, a Cornell University graduate, was a women’s page journalist and fashion writer at the Seattle Post-Intelligencer in the 1960s. Often, she told stories about fashion. In 1968, McCallum won the top national reporting award from the Penney-Missouri Award competition. Her fve-part series about young pregnant women, “Unwed Mothers-The Price They Pay,” examined the lives of women facing signifcant social stigma. She told stories of young women whose voices often went unheard. Her work demonstrated what was happening at newspapers across the country in the 1960s-women’s pages were changing. Later, the P-I assigned McCallum her own column “Eye-to-Eye.” She died at age 25.

Bernadine Morris Bernadine Taub was born on June 10, 1925, in Harlem, New York. The longtime New York Times fashion editor graduated from Hunter College in the Bronx in 1945 with a bachelor’s degree in journalism. She married Jesse Morris, a locomotive salesman. While working at Millinery Research, a fashion weekly, she earned a master’s degree in English from New York University. More than 4000 bylines later, she retired as the newspaper’s chief fashion writer in 1995 after advancing fashion coverage to a stand- alone “Styles of The Times” section. Several of her articles also appeared on the newspaper’s front page.

Eleanor Nangle Eleanor Nangle covered fashion and beauty for the Chicago Tribune. She was an employee of the newspaper for 45 years, working for the Tribune from 1926 until 1971. During that time, she became an authority on fashion, predicting future trends. Nangle, who was born in Chicago, went to work for the Tribune at age 20 as secretary to the then beauty editor, Antoinette Donnelly. A short time later she began her writing and reporting career by covering beauty and charm contests sponsored by the newspaper. In 1934 Nangle started “Thru the Looking Glass,” a beauty column APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 153 that ran through the 1960s. For a time, Nangle also had a 15-minute, three-times-a-week radio program of the same name on WGN in which she discussed beauty and fashion.

Marjorie Paxson Marjorie Paxson was the women’s page editor of the Houston Chronicle who also covered fashion. She was able to cover hard news for a wire service during World War II before being forced back into the women’s pages during peacetime. While in Houston, she was able to cover fashion shows in Europe. By the time she retired from journalism more than fve decades later, she had helped redefne women’s news, been one of the frst female U.S. newspaper publishers, and established the National Women and Media Collection (NWMC). She also was editor of Xilonen, the daily newspaper published for the United Nations World Conference for International Women’s Year held in Mexico City in 1975; played a signifcant part of the 1976 governmental report To Form a More Perfect Union; and was elected president of Theta Sigma Phi (now known as the Association for Women in Communications) in 1963.

Betty Peach Betty Peach-Tschirgi was the longtime San Diego fashion reporter. Peach was on the staff of the Evening Tribune from 1948 to 1982, covering the San Diego Zoo, New York fashion shows, and national presidential con- ventions, beginning with Eisenhower in 1952. She was born in 1916 in Oklahoma and graduated from the University of Oklahoma. She worked for the Oklahoma City Times (covering Al Capone’s daughter’s wedding in Palm Beach in the 1930s) and the Daily Oklahoman, before marrying her city editor, Gene Peach, and moving to San Diego, where he had been hired as an editor and flm critic. During World War II, she served with the American Red Cross in New Guinea, meeting Charles Lindbergh, whom she later interviewed. At age 51, after the death of her husband, she began fying lessons at Gibbs Flying Service at Montgomery Field and went on to earn a commercial pilot’s license. In the 1980s, she married Robert D. Tschirgi, a vice chancellor of UC-San Diego. In 1969, Peach became the frst woman admitted to the all-male journalism fraternity, Sigma Delta Chi. She credited her longevity to fve 154 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS scoops of coffee ice cream a day and kept six half-gallons in her freezer at all times. A month before her death, a heart doctor suggested she have minor surgery to replace her Pacemaker with a smaller model guaranteed to last 10–12 years. “I’m not sure I want to live to be 110 or 112,” she responded. “How long do you want to live?” he asked. Without hesita- tion, she said: “I want to live long enough to see that Donald Trump does not get in the White House.”

Yvonne Petrie Yvonne Petrie was the longtime fashion editor at the Detroit News. She started at the newspaper in 1953 and began covering fashion the next year. A native of Indiana, she attended the University of Chicago and Indiana University. She won a Penney-Missouri Award for fashion reporting in 1964 and gave a speech at the workshop. She regularly covered the New York City, California, Honolulu, and European fashion shows. She was married with a child.

Virginia Pope Virginia Pope was born in Chicago in 1885. Her father died when she was 5 years old, and she and her mother toured Europe, where she became fuent in French, German, and Italian. They returned to Chicago when she was 20. During World War I, she left again to join the Red Cross. She was the fashion editor of the New York Times from 1933 to 1955. In 1942, she created the fashion show “Fashions of the Times.” She staged the event each fall for the next few years that served as a showcase for American designers. In 1952, the show was transformed into a fashion supplement with the same name for the newspapers. She joined the Times in 1925 and became fashion editor eight years later. She was known for encouraging the young fashion industry in New York City. Pope served as president of the New York Newspaperwomen’s Club and received the Neiman Marcus Award in 1948 for outstanding contri- bution to the fashion feld. Pope owned hundreds of hats and almost never wore the same dress and accessories two days running. She said: “I’m drunkard about hats. I cannot bear to throw one away.” APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 155

Sally Raleigh Sally Raleigh was the women’s page editor at the Seattle Post-Intelligencer in the 1960s and 1970s. While some people did not describe her as a feminist, her actions demonstrated her role as women’s rights leader. She oversaw a signifcant series about the Equal Rights Amendment and encouraged her reporters to cover progressive social issues, including lesbian mothers and women’s reproductive health. Along with progressive news, she covered fashion news and mentored Bobbi McCallum.

Vida Roberts Vida Roberts, the fashion editor at the Baltimore Sun, wore black clothes to work every day. Another piece of fashion advice was to have at hand a leopard-skin creation of some type because “every three years, it pops up again.” According to her obituary, she was a woman of striking features with silver hair and Lauren Bacall-like voice, Roberts wrote with wit and grace. The former Vida Misiunas was born in Lithuania and emigrated to Germany when she was 2. In 1949, the family settled in West Baltimore. She earned a bachelor’s degree from the College of Notre Dame of Maryland in 1965. In 1966, she began her journalism career at the Baltimore News American. She edited and designed pages and eventually became fashion editor. She later joined the Evening Sun as fashion editor. Roberts had a theory that despite the glitzy creations of New York and European couturiers, most fashion originated from the young and the streets. Her wardrobe tended toward black, navy, and beige clothes. She preferred being comfortable in sweatpants and a T-shirt at home. She did not wear earrings, preferring bangles and rings. She died at age 56.

Aileen Ryan Aileen Ryan, fashion editor at the Milwaukee Journal, was a three-time Penney-Missouri Award winner. Ryan attended Marquette University in 1919—a year before the 19th Amendment to the Constitution was passed giving women the right to vote. Ryan dropped out of college after two years when she was offered a job at the Milwaukee Journal following a summer spent working on the section’s weekly children’s page—a common segment of women’s pages during this period. 156 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS

During her frst summer of work in 1921, Ryan attended a meeting to hear the Journal editor say he was happy to have females on the staff because “women have cleaned up newspaper offces.” Ryan later recalled the statement made her feel as though she had been hired to use a mop. Ryan retired from the newspaper in 1967 and joined the faculty at Mount Mary College, where she had been instrumental in establishing its fashion studies program. She taught fashion trends and fashion writing for fve years. She also served on the college’s board of directors from 1968 to 1974. The university later established an honorary chair of fashion position in her name.

Maggie Savoy Margaret Case Savoy was a graduate of the University of California, Los Angeles. She worked at the women’s pages of newspapers in Arizona and Southern California, including at the Arizona Republic where she often covered fashion. She won several Penney-Missouri Awards and spoke at the award workshops about updating women’s page content. In an article for the American Society of Newspaper Editors, she took editors to task for not fully explaining the issues central to the women’s movement. She challenged male editors to catch on to the issues. She asked them, “Do you duck the responsibility of helping your women’s editor achieve excel- lence for her 51 percent of your readership? Or do you just listen to one, two or a dozen irate society women and sign, ‘Don’t rock the boat.’” When the feminist organization KNOW, Inc. issued a list of “Reporters You Can Trust,” Savoy’s name was on the list. She married three times and had one child.

Eugenia Sheppard Eugenia Sheppard was born near Columbus, Ohio. (Throughout her life, she refused to reveal her age.) She attended the Columbus School for Girls and later graduated from Bryn Mawr College in 1921. She said of the experience, “It’s either for students or athletes and I wasn’t either.” An active Junior League member, she married Samuel Black and they had a son, Sheppard Black. The couple later divorced. She began her journalism career as a society editor at the Columbus Dispatch. She married the newspaper’s publisher, Preston Wolfe. The couple later divorced. In 1937, Sheppard left Columbus for New York where she began writing for APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 157

Women’sWear Daily. She left her son behind in Ohio with her mother. In 1929, Sheppard became women’s feature editor at the New York Herald Tribune and oversaw the ninth-foor department consisting of fashion, food, furnishings, and beauty. Sheppard started working at the New York Herald Tribune as assistant editor of the women’s pages and largely covered home furnishings in 1938. She married fellow Herald Tribune journalist Walter Millis two years later. They lived in the famous Dakota apartment building on Manhattan’s West Side. By 1947, she became the Tribune’s fashion editor. In her new role, she combined fashion reporting with New York gossip. As the New York Times wrote: “Miss Sheppard is an aggressive reporter who works in the moribund tradition of The Front Page. Nothing escapes her narrowed blue eyes.” She married several times and had a child.

Annie Lee Singletary Annie Lee Singletary was the fashion editor at the Winston-Salem Journal and Sentinel. She was born in 1910 and lived in Winston-Salem all her life. She earned a bachelor’s degree from the University of North Carolina- Greensboro and did graduate work in journalism and language at Columbia University and the University of Innsbruck in Austria. She taught in local schools for several years. For 37 years she was a member of the Sentinel staff and combined Journal-Sentinel staff, doing a regular book column and covering women’s news, fashion, and travel. The Winston-Salem Woman’s Club established a journalism scholarship in her honor; she was winner of a Penney-Missouri Award and was a regular winner in North Carolina Presswomen’s annual awards. Her frst column to appear in the Journal and Sentinel was called “Poison Ivy.” She wrote it once a week.

Mary Stanyan Mary Stanyan was the fashion editor of the San Francisco Examiner—a Hearst newspaper. Initially she covered hard news—going to Afghanistan after World War II to report on postwar recovery. Her editor said: “She never missed a deadline. She was a consummate professional who had contacts in every fashion house.” She often hosted designers at her San Francisco home and spent part of the year in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. She 158 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS was married to a cameraman for a local television station, who often took photos when she covered fashion shows.

Lotys Benning Stewart Lotys Benning Stewart earned a bachelor’s degree from Butler University. Her frst signifcant interview came on a trip to New Orleans, where she spent an afternoon with syndicated advice columnist Dorothy Dix. After earning her undergraduate and graduate degrees, she became the publicity director for the Indianapolis Home Show and then state director of infor- mation for the New Deal program National Youth Administration. In addition to her column, Stewart hosted a radio program “Ladies Listen,” which featured fashion news and Indianapolis women. As fashion reporting grew in coverage in the post-World War II period, Stewart covered the semiannual New York fashion shows. By the time she died at age 55, Stewart had written thousands of articles and had become well known nationwide as a pioneer in the feld of fashion. She was married with a child.

Gretchen Weber Gretchen Weber was the fashion editor and fashion illustrator at the Denver Post. She was born in Boulder in 1901. She was educated at the University of Colorado, the Parsons School of Design, and the Minneapolis School of Fine and Applied Arts. Weber joined the Post in 1931. In July 1958, Weber was among the two hundred newspaper women in New York City scouting out couture collections for her fall 1958 fashion report. She retired in 1969. Weber married attorney Hal Johnson in 1977 and moved to Oklahoma.

Jo Werne Josephine Werne was a women’s page reporter at the Miami Herald who sometimes covered fashion. She grew up on a 40-acre Ohio farm, the second of six children. After graduating from Kent State University in 1962, Werne spent a year traveling in South America on a Knight Newspapers scholarship. Heading home, she stopped at the Miami Herald and applied for a job. Werne combined her hobby with her work and it led to the 1972 Penney-Missouri Award for fashion writing. Her award came after her APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS 159 search for inexpensive fabrics. In researching, she discovered a booming polyester knitting industry in Miami. The work resulted in the article: “Polyester: A New $70 Million Business.” In it, she described what polyester is and how it was made. She visited the fabric mills and interviewed the workers. A Penney-Missouri judge, a senior editor at Time, wrote of her “reporting colorfully on the sociology of the Cuban work forces. The result is a very human dimension.”

Mildred Whitaker Mildred Whitaker was the fashion editor of the San Antonio newspaper since 1954. In that role, she oversaw the News’ Glamour Clinic. In 1954 and 1956, she received frst place in the women’s division of the Texas Associated Press competition for Glamour Clinic stories. She began her newspaper career at the Texas City Sun. She later became a reporter at the Houston Press—eventually becoming the women’s page editor. She earned a Matrix Headliner Award winner. She was inducted to the San Antonio Women Hall of Fame in 1986.

Peg Zwecker Peg Zwecker was a longtime fashion editor at the Chicago Daily News and then the Chicago Sun Times. She hired Lois Wille as her assistant; Wille went on to win two Pulitzer Prizes. Zwecker is known for discovering the designer Halston. She graduated from the University of Illinois in 1932 and fve years later went to work as the assistant food editor for the Chicago Herald Examiner. She joined the Chicago Times in 1938 as food editor, becoming fashion editor in 1941. When the Chicago Sun purchased the Times, creating the Sun-Times, Zwecker became fashion editor of the combined papers. She took a break after her son was born in 1950 but later returned to work as fashion editor of the Chicago Daily News, where she remained as fashion editor and columnist until the paper folded in 1978. During her time at the Daily News, she established the Chicago Daily News Fashion Award, in which a fashion design graduate from the School of the Art Institute would be sent for a year to work with designers. She was also the fashion contributor to WFLD-TV in the late 1960s and was a frequent guest on various talk shows. Zwecker earned numerous accolades during her career, including being inducted into the Chicago Journalism Hall of Fame. 160 APPENDIX: BRIEF BIOGRAPHIES OF NEWSPAPER FASHION EDITORS

Other Fashion Editors There were a few fashion editors whose names appeared in stories but whose histories cannot be documented. For example, Judy Pennebaker of the Nashville Tennessean, Ruth Quint of the New Haven Register, and Thelma Machael of the Indianapolis News all wrote about fashion for their newspapers, but nothing could be found that was written about them. Selected References

Books and Journal Articles Agins, Teri. 1999. The End of Fashion: How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business. New York: William Morrow and Company. Amerian, Stephanie M. 2016. The Fashion Gap: The Cold War Politics of American and Soviet Fashion, 1945–1959. Journal of Historical Research in Marketing 8: 65–82. Bender, Marylin. 1967. The Beautiful People. New York: Coward-McCann, Inc. Best, Kate Nelson. 2017. The History of Fashion Journalism. Bloomsbury. Blass, Bill. 2002. Bare Blass. New York: Harper Collins. Blaugrund, Annette. 2011. Dispensing Beauty in New York and Beyond, 161–173. Charleston, SC: History Press. Boardman, Michelle. 1998. Shoulder to Shoulder: Women’s Patriotic Scarves of World War II. Dress 25: 4–10. Buckland, Sandra Stansbery, and Gwendolyn S. O’Neal. 2013. ‘We Publish Fashions Because They Are News’: The New York Times 1940 Through 1945. Dress 25: 33–41. Byrnes, Garrett D., ed. 1951. Fashion Handbook. New York: American Press Institute/Columbia University Press. Christy, Marian. 1984. Invasions of Privacy. Reading, MA: Addison-Wesley Publishing. Cloud, Barbara. 2009. By-line: Pittsburgh’s Beloved Columnist Shares a Lifetime of Interviews and Observations. Tarentum, PA: World Association Publishers. Delano, Page Dougherty. 2000, Spring. Making Up for War: Sexuality and Citizenship. Feminist Studies, 33–68.

© The Author(s), under exclusive license to Springer Nature 161 Switzerland AG 2021 K. W. Voss, Newspaper Fashion Editors in the 1950s and 60s, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-73624-8 162 SELECTED REFERENCES

Fashion, Retailing and a Bygone Era: Inside Women’s Wear Daily. 2005. Washington, DC. Givhan, Robin. 2015. Battle of Versailles. New York: Flatiron Books. Granata, Francesca. 2018. Fashioning Cultural Criticism: An Inquiry into Fashion Criticism and Its Delay in Legitimization. Fashion Theory 23: 1–18. ———, ed. 2021. Fashion Criticism: An Anthology. London: Bloomsbury. Greenwald, Marilyn. 1999. A Woman of the Times. Athens, OH: Ohio University Press. Hackett, Lisa J., and Denise N. Rall. 2018. The Size of the Problem with the Problem of Sizing. Clothing Cultures 264. Hartley, John. 2004. ‘About a Girl’: Fashion Photography as Photojournalism. Journalism 5: 458–479. Kluger, Richard. 1986. The Life and Death of the New York Herald Tribune. New York: Alfred A. Knopf. Konig, Anna. 2015. Glossy Words: An Analysis of Fashion Writing in British Vogue. Fashion Theory 10: 205–224. Lake, Stephanie Day. ‘Early’ Bonnie Cashin, Before Bonnie Cashin Designs, Inc. Studies in the Decorative Arts 8 (Fall–Winter): 108–124. Miller, Sandra, and Peter McNeil. 2017a. Fashion Journalism: History, Theory and Practice. Bloomsbury. ———. 2017b. Fashion Journalism: History, Theory and Practice. Bloomsbury. Mills, Kay. 1990. A Place in the News: From the Women’s Pages to the Front Pages. New York: Columbia University Press. Powell, Margaret E. 2012. The Life and Work of Ann Lowe: Rediscovering ‘Society’s Best Kept Secret, Master’s Thesis, Smithsonian Associates and the Corcoran College of Art + Design. Richardson, Lou, and Genevieve Callahan. 1949. How to Write for Homemakers. Ames, IA: Iowa State College Press. Robertson, Nan. 1992. Girls in the Balcony. New York: Random House. Roe, Dorothy. 1961. The Trouble with Women is Men. Englewood Cliffs, NJ: Prentice-Hall, Inc. Singletary, Annie Lee. 1981. The Flip Side of Fashion: 30 Years of Dress & Press. Winston-Salem, NC: Hunter Pub. Co. Sterlacci, Francesca, and Joanne Arbuckle. 2009. The A to Z of the Fashion Industry. New York: Scarecrow Press. Swanson, Kristen K., and Judith C. Everett. 2008a. Writing for the Fashion Business. New York: Fairchild Books. ———. 2008b. Writing for the Fashion Business. New York: Fairchild Books. Voss, Kimberly Wilmot. 2004, Summer. Aileen Ryan: The First Project Runway. Milwaukee History: The Magazine of the Milwaukee Historical Society, 43–50. ———. 2015. Newspaper Fashion Journalism: The Province of Savvy Women Covering A Powerful Industry. Media Report to Women 43: 6–11. SELECTED REFERENCES 163

Voss, Kimberly Wilmot, and Lance Speere. 2013–2014. Fashion as Washington Journalism History: Eleni Epstein and Her Three Decades at the Washington Star. Media History Monographs 16: 3. Wirth, Eileen. 2013. From Society Page to Front Page: Nebraska Women in Journalism. Nebraska: Bison Books. Wolbers, Marian Frances. 2009. Uncovering Fashion: Fashion Communications Across the Media. New York: Fairchild Books.

Selected Fashion Newspaper Articles Ash, Agnes. 1958, July 15. 200 Visitors Getting Set for a Fashion Marathon. New York Times. Baldwin, Mary Burt. 1962, February 24. Teenage Girls Show Preference For Bouffant. New York Times. Cloud, Barbara. 2006, March 26. The First and Last White House Fashion Show. Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. Eleanor Nangle: Was Tribune Fashion Expert. 1986, November 8. Chicago Tribune. Gray, Jacquelyn. 1995, March 31. Journal Got a Quick Start on Fashion. Milwaukee Journal. Hammond, Fay. 1951, October 28. Deadline Dolls Make Headlines on Hemlines. Los Angeles Times. Hampton, Nora. 1965, January 5. Guess Where Your New Hemline Is? Oakland Tribune. Hawkins, Dorothy. 1957, January 6. Headlines – Of the Thirties. New York Times. Heartsill, Grayson. 1963, August 6. Kookie Look Now Assumes Sportive Air. Dallas Times Herald. Klemesrud, Judy. 1968, May 28. Milwaukee: Famous for Beer, Bratwurst – And Fashion. New York Times. ———. 1969, September 24. New Look for Men: Lots of Bare Chest. New York Times. ———. 1970, August 5. Braless Look: 2 Years Ago a Daring Fad, But Now It’s a Trend. New York Times. ———. 1971, July 20. … While on Rikers Island, a Fashion Show Thrills the Inmates. New York Times. Kunz, Marji. 1969, April 17. Fashion Leaders Toast an Opening. Detroit Free Press. Levin, Phyllis. 1960, February 26. Couturier Is Inspired By Fabrics From U.S. New York Times. Lunn, Judy. 1974a, May 1. Dressing by Codes. Houston Post. ———. 1974b, May 8. Even Though School Years Are Coming to an End, Dress Code Controversies Continue. Houston Post. 164 Selected References

McCallum, Bobbi. 1968a, June 27. Talent and Teens Bring Boutiques. Seattle Post-Intelligencer. ———. 1968b, August 8. Mad Hatter’s Moment. Seattle Post-Intelligencer. Milburn, Betty. 1961, September 30. What We Wish For …What We Wear … Both Are in Cele Peterson Show. Tucson Daily Citizen. Morris, Bernadine. 1965a, December 16. The World’s Best-Dressed Women: Who? New York Times. ———. 1965b, December 17. Fashion Institute Students Bring Out Their Ideas. New York Times. ———. 1978, January 17. Virginia Pope, 92, Fashion Editor of the Times 22 Years, Is Dead. New York Times. ———. 1990, May 6. Nina Hyde, 57, a Fashion Editor Who Became a Pacesetter, Is Dead. New York Times. Nemy, Enid. 1968, January 17. A Free Spirit Battles Puritanism Despite Chill. New York Times. ———. 2003, October 8. Eleanor Lambert, Empress of Fashion, Dies at 100. New York Times. Paxson, Marjorie. 1955a, July 29. Italian Milliners Know Their Way Around Felt. Houston Chronicle. ———. 1955b, August 5. A Conservative Dior Retains Magic Touch. Houston Chronicle. Petrie, Yvonne. 1966, May 8. The Fashion Spy. Detroit News. Rasmussen, Fred. 1998, June 10. Vida Roberts, 56, Sun Fashion Editor Who Began Career at News American in 1966. Baltimore Sun. Rodgers, Ann. 2012, September 16. Barbara Cloud/Fashion Editor Exuded Beauty Inside, Out. Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. Savoy, Maggie. 1961, October 22. Fashion Is Expression. Arizona Republic. Sheppard, Eugenia. 1968, February 25. White House Open Door to First Fashion Showing. St. Petersburg Times. Stewart, Lotys Benning. 1952, January 6. pring Fashion Preview. Indianapolis Star. Sutton, Carol. 1972, November 16. Of Freebies and Fashion Shows. Louisville Courier-Journal. Taylor, Angela. 1965, February 13. Casual Curls Are Headed for Revival This Summer. New York Times. ———. 1966, March 29. The Dress for Dancing – Not Sitting. New York Times. ———. 1967, October 30. Men Launch an Offensive in Fashion War Between the Sexes. New York Times. ———. 1968, January 15. For Hairdos That Never Let You Down – Wigs. New York Times. ———. 1969a, November 27. High Hem Or Low, Sleeved Or Not, Just So Long as It’s Black. New York Times. Selected References 165

———. 1969b, January 8. Girls in Pants Aren’t Sent to the Principal’s Offce Any More. New York Times. Weinman, Martha. 1959, November 15. No Biz Like Fashion Show Biz. New York Times. Whitaker, Mildred. 1960, May 22. Smart Fashions for the Woman of ‘Fifty Plus’. San Antonio Express and News. Woestendiek, Jo. 1981, June 11. Book Grows from Decades Covering Fashion. Winston-Salem (N.C.) Sentinel. Index

A D Advertising, vii, viii, 8, 20, 56, 62, 63, Department stores, xii, 17, 20, 26, 29, 70, 71, 74, 105–114, 124 30, 34, 43, 45, 48, 53, 68, 76, American Press Institute, 23, 109 77, 86, 91–93, 95, 106, 107, 109, 130, 148 Designers, vii, viii, x, 2, 4, 5, 7, 15–18, B 20–22, 24, 25, 27, 29, 32–35, Battle of Versailles, 75, 112, 135–136 41–50, 52–54, 61–79, 86–89, 91, Bender, Marylin, xi, 133, 144 92, 94, 96–100, 105–107, 110–114, Bernadine Morris, 69 119–121, 123, 124, 128–132, 135, Best-dressed lists, 61, 66, 74, 75, 87 136, 150, 151, 154, 157, 159 Bloomer, Amelia, 2, 7, 27 Dietrich, Marlene, 3 Bras, viii, 45, 121, 124, 125 Dior, 2, 4, 21, 41, 45, 51, 56, 89, 98, 123, 134, 135 Disability, 131–132 C Dorothy Hawkins/Le Sueur, 63, 148 Chanel, Coco, 6, 18, 89 Dress codes, viii, 9, 127–128 Christy, Marian, 17 Cloud, Barbara, xi, 24, 51, 92, 93, 106, 109, 113, 114, 129, 145 E Collins, Gail, 5, 9 Earhart, Amelia, 3 Colors, 25, 26, 34, 35, 45, 46, 63, 64, Epstein, Eleni, ix–xi, 15, 22, 42, 77, 85, 96, 99, 107, 108, 120, 121 70–72, 87, 111, 112, 131, 132, Corset, 45, 50, 69, 70, 149 134, 146–147 Cosmetics companies, 8 Ethics, 46, 105–114

F L Fabrics, viii, 19, 24, 25, 29, 30, 42, Lambert, Eleanor, 34, 49, 61, 62, 66, 47, 51–52, 67, 92, 114, 74–75, 112, 130, 135 121–129, 159 Lauder, Estee, 22 Fashion calendar, 75–76 Lauren, Ralph, 24, 92 Fashion Group International, x, 74, 88, 134, 151 Fashion publicist, 34, 61, 62, 66, 74, M 79, 112, 135 Marian Christy, vii, ix, 73, Fashion shows, viii, ix, xi, xii, 7, 17, 107, 144–145 19–22, 28, 33–35, 41–56, 62–66, McCallum, Bobbi, 46, 95, 96, 99, 68, 71–79, 85–100, 105–114, 152, 155 119, 122, 128–131, 135, 145, Men’s wear Daily, vii, 65, 66, 69, 70, 148, 150, 151, 153, 154, 158 88, 144, 149, 157 Finley, Ruth, 75–76 Mizrahi, Isaac, 97 Freddye Scarborough Henderson, Models, xii, 3, 15, 17, 27, 51, 53–56, 72–73, 148 76, 77, 92, 95, 111, 113, 120, 129–131, 136, 154 Moore, Mary Tyler, 3 G Gender, viii, x, 1, 3, 6, 9, 15, 23, 65, 120, 121, 136 N Nangle, Eleanor, 30, 61, 94, 152

H Hats, viii, ix, 15, 18, 67, 72, 77, 91, P 92, 96, 107, 108, 120–122, 126, Pants, pantsuits, viii, 1–11, 20, 23, 27, 128–129, 133, 154 43, 48, 53, 76, 78, 94, 95, 97, Hawkins/Le Sueur, Dorothy, 51 119, 120, 127, 128, 131, 133 Henderson, Freddye Scarborough, 21 Paxson, Marjorie, x, 17, 25, 51, 89, 153 Hepburn, Katherine, 3 Penney-Missouri Awards, ix, x, 28, 32, Hosiery, 107, 124 33, 73, 86, 89–91, 95, 98, 110, Hyde, Nina, 16, 18, 24, 31, 44, 127, 144, 147, 148, 150, 112, 149 152, 154–158 Politics, 7, 15, 47, 56, 114, 132–134 Pope, Virginia, 15, 20, 41, 45 J Jo Werne, 158–159 R Roberts, Vida, 19, 155 K Ryan, Aileen, x, 17, 19, 25, 34, 35, Kelly, Grace, 43 42, 43, 85, 89, 90, 106, 119, Kennedy, Jacqueline, 44 135, 155–156 INDEX 169

S V Seneca Falls, 2 Virginia Pope, ix, xi, 29, 62, 63, Sewing, 19, 23, 29, 63, 97 68–69, 105, 110, 148, 154 Sheppard, Eugenia, vii, ix, 15, 19, 30, 31, 47, 61, 65–68, 78, 134, 136, 149, 156–157 W Singletary, Annie Lee, ix, xi, Weddings, 43–44, 52, 54, 55, 67, 70, 20, 33, 34, 48, 49, 86, 95, 122, 145, 151, 153 87, 98, 157 Werne, Jo, 19 Sizes, 22, 27, 52–54, 87, 132 White House, 9 Skirts, viii, 2–7, 15, 20, 33, White House Fashion Show, ix, xi, 22, 43–45, 47, 49, 51, 64, 75, 105–114 65, 77, 88–90, 97–99, Women’s pages, vii, ix, 10, 11, 15–17, 120–124, 127, 128, 19, 20, 23–25, 27, 30–32, 35, 56, 133, 145 62, 63, 68, 71, 72, 85, 89, 93, 96, Stanton, Elizabeth Cady, 2 106, 109, 110, 112, 119–136, Steinem, Gloria, 124 144, 145, 149, 151–153, 155–159 Sutton, Carol, 109, 110 Women’s Strike for Equality, 10 World War II, viii, xii, 2, 11, 15–35, 41, 42, 45, 51, 68, 71, 89, 91, T 110–112, 123, 134, 147, Taylor, Elizabeth, 43 153, 157 Thomas, Helen, 9 Thomas, Marlo, 125 Trigere, Pauline, 5, 6, 45, 93, Y 124, 130 Youth, viii, 63, 126, 158