STAYING ON A CURVE STUART WEITZMAN UNVEILS ITS ZAHA HADID-DESIGNED FOCUSED CONCEPT STORE IN HONG KONG THAT EMPHASIZES HUNTING GROUND J. JILL AIMS TO GROW BY CURVILINEAR SHAPES. PAGE 4 CATCHING UP WITH ARTIST HUNT SLONEM, FOCUSING ON ITS CORE WHO HAS A NEW BOOK, EXHIBITS AND MISSES’ CUSTOMER. A MUSEUM IN THE WORKS. PAGE 14 PAGE 5

CHANGE AT CALVIN KLEIN Shiffman Named CEO As Murry Steps Aside

By LISA LOCKWOOD

NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc., a division of PVH Corp., is about to usher in a new era. Steve Shiffman, currently president and chief com- mercial offi cer of CKI, will become chief executive of- fi cer on July 1, succeeding Tom Murry, who has been TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY at the fashion fi rm for 17 years. Murry will become WWD executive chairman, serving in an advisory role until he retires on Jan. 31. Murry, 63, originally planned to change his role at CKI in mid-2016, but decided to accelerate the pro- cess by two years. He said he felt like the company would be in capable hands with Shiffman, with whom he has worked closely for the past seven years. “The past 17 years of Calvin Klein have been an incredible experience for me, having shepherded the company through multiple transformations over the last decade. I felt this is the right time to accelerate our transition plans and made my decision knowing that Calvin Klein is in an excellent position and that Layered we have the right team in place to build on our suc- cess around the world,” said Murry. He added that selecting Shiffman as his successor “provides for a smooth, seamless transition.” Starting in July, Murry will serve as an adviser to Shiffman. “I’ll provide Steve with whatever guidance he wishes. He takes over the reins,” said Murry who, as executive chairman, will have his hours, salary Ta ke and bonus opportunities cut in half. Murry’s base sal- ary is currently $1 million per year. Tokyo Fashion Week ended over the weekend, Murry said he decided on the move after having and a highlight was Yasutoshi Ezumi’s show. hip replacement surgery Jan. 8. He couldn’t play The designer delivered a chic golf and he was recuperating with his wife at their Florida home. “I had time to refl ect on our lives and collection rooted in men’s what we wanted to do with the rest of our lives,” said wear, made interesting Murry. He said Shiffman, in his role as president and with tweaks on classics FALL 2014 chief commercial offi cer, “had really risen to the oc- and lovely pilings of knits casion and really got his arms around the job.” as shown here. For more, TOKYO SEE PAGE 13 see pages 10 to 12. COLLECTIONS Obama Faces Pressure To Redefi ne Trade Policy

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — The global trade playbook needs to be rewritten for it to be dynamic again. The U.S. is entering a new era for global trade that is not always embraced — even by pro-trade advo- cates — and will force President Obama and future leaders to engage more directly and build a stronger bipartisan consensus to move the agenda forward, ac- cording to experts in the fi eld. Obama’s trade agenda has stalled in the fi rst half of the year against the backdrop of looming midterm elections in November, thorny issues in trade nego- tiations and some opposition from members in his own Democratic party. Then there is the continued onslaught of global crises, the most recent of which — tensions with Russia over Crimea and Ukraine — could result in trade sanctions and Russia could choose to retaliate with its own trade sanctions against U.S. and European Union exports. Whatever happens with Russia, experts do expect action over trade deals to ramp up after the elections. “I don’t remember a time in my career in and out of government ever since I worked for [then-President] Ronald Reagan back in the early Eighties where trade has been seen as an issue as indifferent as it seems to be today,” said Jon Huntsman Jr., chairman of the Atlantic Council think tank in an address before the American Apparel & Footwear Association, “where people in my party — the Republican Party — which PHOTO BY YUKIE MIYAZAKI used to see trade as a bulwark for economic growth SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 WWD.COM Carra Named Agnona CEO THE BRIEFING BOX and said the company is “implementing the collec- IN TODAY’S WWD By LUISA ZARGANI tion’s structure by introducing categories that were not familiar to the heritage of the brand until the MILAN — Agnona has tapped Alessandra Carra as arrival of Stefano Pilati.” chief executive officer. The company is expanding Agnona’s prod- An image of Spanish- She will join the Italian brand in May and suc- uct offer by establishing an accessories line of Mexican actress Emilia ceeds Bruno Laguardia, who will be appointed a shoes and handbags. In February, it inked a 10- Guiú in Havana in 1952, member of the board. year licensing agreement with Italian eyewear from “Cuba Then: Rare As reported earlier this month, Carra is leav- powerhouse Marcolin Group for the worldwide and Classic Images From ing her role as ceo of Emilio Pucci. LVMH Moët manufacture and distribution of sunglasses the Ramiro A. Fernández Hennessy Louis Vuitton, parent of the Florence-based and eyeglasses for the Ermenegildo Zegna and Collection.” For more, see firm, appointed Carra in March Agnona brands, marking the page 14 and WWD.com. 2011 to succeed Didier Drouet. debut of the latter in the lux- Gildo Zegna, ceo of the Dree ury eyewear arena. Agnona’s Ermenegildo Zegna Group, Hemingway first 20 glasses models will be which took control of Agnona in an ad for introduced this fall. in 1999, praised Carra’s “rooted Agnona. In terms of distribution, expertise in the business de- Zegna said that the plan is to velopment of luxury women’s “surely” work on the develop- VICENTE MUNIZ/BOHEMIA wear.” He told WWD that he was ment of Agnona’s retail net- “convinced she has the neces- work, but this “absolutely does sary skills and knowledge to not imply we will neglect part- PHOTO BY lead this project.” nerships with the department Prior to Pucci, Carra was stores of different countries.” Steve Shiffman, president and chief commercial officer of ceo of Polo Ralph Lauren Italy He added that the focus now is Calvin Klein Inc., will succeed Tom Murry as the company’s chief and countries under license, to “create business relations PAGE 1 a post she’d held since 2004. to be developed soundly.” This executive officer. Previously, she was vice presi- was echoed by Carra, who also dent of marketing, sales and dis- highlighted the “attention” The global trade playbook needs to be rewritten for it to tribution worldwide at Valentino the group has paid to its retail be dynamic again, with President Obama taking a hands-on PAGE 1 and held positions at Levi LAMSWEERDE AND VINOODH MATADIN development, without forget- approach. Strauss Group and Trussardi. ting the wholesale channel, is Zegna has been investing in “surely a cause for reflection” Zaha Hadid was in Hong Kong Friday to fete the opening of her INEZ VAN the development of Agnona, tra- going forward in her role at Stuart Weitzman concept boutique. PAGE 4 ditionally known for its fine cash- the house. mere looks. He tapped Stefano PHOTO BY The Zegna Group, noted Tax-free spending by Russians visiting the U.K. decreased 17 Pilati, who started in January Carra, “represents an excel- percent year-on-year for the month of February. PAGE 4 2013 as creative director of the women’s brand and lence of Made in Italy; a company that has been head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, with respon- able to transform its brand in a global brand with- There’s nothing fancy, edgy or trendy about J. Jill, and that’s sibility for that brand’s fashion show as well as for out renouncing its industrial DNA combined with a just fine for the enduring misses brand. PAGE 5 the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection. skillful artisanal craftsmanship.” “I am enthusiastic to be able to be part of this Of Laguardia, Zegna said he was a “storied and Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd could see his compensation project,” Carra said. “To work on a strategic devel- precious collaborator. In fact, he is not leaving our quadruple in his first full year back at J.C. Penney Co. Inc. PAGE 5 opment plan to support Stefano Pilati’s framework group: he will remain on the Agnona board and will built over the past year will be my priority.” be a valued adviser.” While China and Vietnam dominate the textile and apparel The executive said “the motor” behind her Laguardia took on his role at the Italian brand PAGE 8 choice was the Zegna Group’s “strategy and entre- in January 2012, and was previously ceo of Giorgio landscape, South Korea and Peru are making their mark. preneurial” asset, and, “undoubtedly,” a creative Armani Corp.’s New York offices from 2007 to 2010. director such as Pilati. Zegna said he played “a key role” in the initial Retailers praised the Tokyo collections, but said the timing of Zegna emphasized Agnona’s “unique potential” phase of the brand. the shows and prices might limit their buying. PAGE 12

Google will partner with Luxottica to help expand the range of Glass silhouettes. PAGE 13

Headwinds Persist as J. Crew Enters Spring Hunt Slonem tonight will be signing copies of his sixth book, the promotional environment and actions taken to “Bunnies,” at the Paul Smith store in New York’s SoHo. PAGE 14 By DAVID MOIN move through the inventory to make sure we ended the quarter with current inventory and that we Rihanna will receive the Fashion Icon Award at the 2014 THOUGH IT’S STILL EARLY for spring selling, J. weren’t carrying a lot of inventory,” Haselden said. CFDA Fashion Awards on June 2. PAGE 15 Crew Group Inc. is feeling no letup in the pressures Despite headwinds, Haselden did say that J. Crew’s and headwinds experienced last year. international strategy began to get traction with store The media world has been critical of the paywall erected by “In general, the difficult traffic trends we saw openings; that Madewell continued to ramp up, and Capital New York about six weeks ago. PAGE 15 in the fourth quarter are persisting into the early that the factory outlet business was “pretty strong with part of the first quarter,” Stuart Haselden, J. Crew’s healthy new store opportunities there.” J. Crew plans chief financial officer, told WWD, just after the com- to open two stores in Hong Kong in May and last fall ON WWD.COM pany reported its fourth-quarter results, marked by opened three stores in the U.K., as well as a unit in a decline in net profits but gains in adjusted earn- Toronto, giving the retailer 10 locations in Canada. EYE: Vintage images of the island of Cuba are on full ings and on the revenue side as well. In addition, “The direct business grew faster display in “Cuba Then: Rare and Classic Images From the “The promotional environment continues to be chal- than the business overall,” Haselden said. “Folks Ramiro A. Fernández Collection.” For more, see WWD.com. lenging,” Haselden added. “Those things are affecting just seem to be ready to shop online more than ever all retailers in the industry and we are certainly not im- before. That plays to our strength given the compel- mune to that. The weather hasn’t helped either.” ling online offering we have. It represents about 30 J. Crew entered the spring season with its inven- percent of our business, which is higher than most FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA tory level still “a little high — we wish we had less,” of our competitors.” @ WWD.com/social Haselden acknowledged, though he added, “When The direct business was up 10 percent last quar- we look at the composition of the inventory, we ter, which came on top of a 27 percent increase in TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. have less that’s old than we do current spring-sum- the year-ago fourth quarter that had an extra week. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. mer inventory. The increase is related to flows of Haselden would not comment on the company’s fu- COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. new products for Q1 versus fall-holiday [merchan- ture ownership. Talks to be acquired by Fast Retailing VOLUME 207, NO. 60. TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, dise] we didn’t clear.” Co. Ltd. reportedly recently broke down, suggesting and two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Looking forward, Haselden said, “Given the traf- that J. Crew could proceed with an initial public of- Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, fic trends, and just the headwinds there, we could fering with Goldman Sachs. TPG and Leonard Green Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, see some pressure on margins going forward based & Partners bought J. Crew for $3 billion in 2011, taking and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West on the amount of inventory we have.” the company private. J. Crew reports its financial re- Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, For the fourth quarter ended Feb. 1, J. Crew’s sults because of its publicly held debt. Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment. net fell 42 percent to $5.9 million from $10.2 million For the year, J. Crew’s net income amounted to com. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service in the year-ago period. The net was brought down $88.1 million, compared to $96.1 million in 2012. address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within by a $6.1 million dividend-equivalent expense. Adjusted EBITDA increased to $370.2 million from one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever However, adjusted earnings before interest, $359.6 million. Revenues increased 9 percent to dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new taxes, depreciation and amortization rose 7.5 per- $2.43 billion, with comparable company sales in- subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please cent to $75.7 million from $70.4 million in the fourth creasing 3 percent. Store sales increased 6 percent call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request for reprints of articles please contact The YGS quarter last year. to $1.6 billion, and direct sales increased 16 per- Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. Occasionally we make our Revenues in the quarter increased 7 percent to cent to $755.9 million. Gross margin was 41.4 per- subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest $686.2 million, from $642.9 million, with compara- cent, compared to 44.3 percent in the year before. our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR ble company sales increasing 3 percent. “The entire year was marked by difficult traffic, DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED J. Crew’s gross margin rate slipped to 36.8 per- headwinds and a more pronounced promotional TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, cent in the last quarter, compared to 38.4 percent a environment. That certainly was the case in Q4,” UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND year ago, largely resulting from “a combination of Haselden stressed. OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Close Date : 4/23 Issue Date: 5/6

WWD is proud to be the exclusive media partner for the inaugural CLIO Image Awards, honoring creative excellence in digital and print campaigns.

Align with fashion and beauty's award-winning advertisers in this special preview issue.

For more information on advertising, contact Pamela Firestone at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi[email protected] 4 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 Hadid in Hong Kong for Stuart Weitzman Opening interesting is that it’s not going to be all By PAYAL UTTAM FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE over the place.” Kulkin explained that alongside strong HONG KONG — Zaha Hadid was in Hong WWD.com/ product lines and marketing campaigns, Kong Friday to fete the opening of her accessories-news. store architecture is becoming increasing- Stuart Weitzman concept boutique. More ly important. “If you want to get her off the than 300 fans swarmed around the futur- iPad and into the store, you have to create istic store in Hong Kong’s IFC mall for a an environment that is different,” he said glimpse of the architect. Hadid arrived of their customers. “Zaha always seems to at the cocktail party clad in all black be at the forefront of breaking every ar- with electric blue Prada ankle boots and chitectural rule. She comes up with these a metallic cape by Mary Katrantzou. On structures that are really quite amazing.” her wrist was a large latticed cuff she de- Asia has become a major focus for the signed for Caspita. brand of late. “Five years ago if you asked A self-confessed shoe aficionado, me, I would say Asia is a wonderful mar- Hadid says she’s long been familiar with ket but it’s a follower market. Now, Asia is the Weitzman brand. “Actually, I have the leading market,” said Kulkin. Stuart Weitzman shoes from maybe 25 On April 1, the brand will launch an e- or 30 years ago, completely clear ones I commerce site in Hong Kong in partner- bought from New York and I love them. ship with Pedder Group, followed by a site They are still sitting on my table after all YUNG in China in September. According to Kulkin,

these years,” she said. JOYCE e-commerce is the biggest growth engine The Hong Kong flagship marks the ar- for the company, and it represents about 35 chitect’s second collaboration with the percent of total business in the U.S. New York-based women’s footwear label, PHOTO BY “We think in three years, the China which opened its first concept store in The Zaha Hadid-designed Stuart Weitzman boutique at IFC mall has a futuristic look. e-commerce business will be a bigger Milan during fashion week last year. “They platform than any place in the world,” he are part of the same family but they are not Kong with the design of The Peak leisure laborate with Stuart Weitzman on more added. “Right now it is tremendous, but identical,” said Hadid of the two boutiques. club (an unrealized building) in 1982, the boutiques. The brand is planning a global it’s really based off discounting and pro- Composed of a clean palette of gray architect has had a soft spot for the city. “I rollout of seven concept stores designed motion. We think there will be a major and white, the Hong Kong store features love Hong Kong. I come here quite often, by the architect, with a Rome boutique change due to social media, where peo- glossy, curvilinear forms characteristic at least every other year,” she said. “We slated for August followed by a shop-in- ple will become very accepting of buying of the architect’s designs. “It’s a small, just opened two days ago the [Hong Kong] shop in Harrods in London in September. luxury online.” compact space, so it’s really about making Polytechnic University’s school of design By the end of the year, the company will This year the brand plans to open an- fluid interiors,” Hadid said. “Other than and we opened a design museum in Seoul. open a Beijing store in Shin Kong Place. other seven stores in China and about 15 the design, [it’s about] the elevation: the So it’s been a very design-oriented trip.” In 2015, it hopes to cut the ribbon on more in 2015, the ceo said. Next month desk, the shelving, the seating, so it’s [cre- Asked what’s next, Hadid replied, stores on Madison Avenue in New York, it will open a store in Mongolia and one ating] a whole world from that space.” “We are doing a lot of work in China, we Rodeo Drive in Los Angeles and Rue will bow in India this fall. At about 970-square-feet, the cave- are doing a project in New York on the Saint-Honoré in Paris, as well as a space Asked how the brand, which gener- like store is filled with curved walls that High Line and we are doing a project in in Dubai. Weitzman also is eyeing a loca- ates $300 million in its global retail and swoop down from the ceiling at dramatic Miami, a tower.” She’s also been work- tion in Ginza, Tokyo. wholesale business, is faring in China’s angles. Sculptural display units made ing on an opera set for the Los Angeles “The goal is to pick the fashion epi- current economic climate, Kulkin’s reply of fiberglass with a rose gold trim are Philharmonic’s production of “Così centers of the world and open up these was optimistic: “I think we are beating perched in the center along with cleverly fan tutte” with costumes designed by stores,” said Stuart Weitzman chief exec- the trend. We know from our competitors integrated latex foam seating. Hussein Chalayan, which opens in May. utive officer Wayne Kulkin. “But we want that there has been a slowdown in luxury Since kick-starting her career in Hong Hadid added that she intends to col- to limit it to eight or nine. What makes it but our business is better than ever.” Russian Tourist Spending Drops Ippolito Etro Exits Family Firm [its] extensive offer of luxury brands, By WWD STAFF so businesses should renew their em- panies such as Salvatore Ferragamo phasis on strategies to entice these By LUISA ZARGANI and Brunello Cucinelli.” LONDON — The long arm of Vladimir individuals and encourage high-level Armando Branchini, deputy chair- Putin is hitting cash registers across spend,” he said. MILAN — At a time of generational man of Milan-based consultancy Western Europe. The U.K. is not the only market to suf- and ownership shifts at several Italian InterCorporate, said it’s “normal for On Monday, Global Blue reported that fer. According to Global Blue in Austria, companies, a major shake-up is taking conflicts to emerge in family compa- tax-free spending by Russians visiting the number of Russian shoppers in place at the family-owned Etro SpA. nies, rarely based on personal issues the U.K. decreased 17 percent year-on- Vienna fell more than 42 percent year- Ippolito Etro will leave his role as but rather on potential solutions to year for the month of February. Already on-year in February after having risen general manager to “pursue new busi- help grow and develop the firm. When reeling from the weakening Russian more than 20 percent in January. ness horizons,” effective April 1, said their name is on the tag, each individ- economy, consumers were further hit In Paris, tax-free spending by his brother Jacopo, global communica- ual believes their vision can help en- by the political unrest in the region, Russians — the second-largest group of tions vice president. hance and build the brand.” which “exacerbated” the effects and left foreign consumers after the Chinese — Their father, Gerolamo Etro, known The company’s revenues in 2013 to- Russians disinclined to travel. dipped 5 percent in February, although as Gimmo, president of the Milan- taled 325 million euros, or $429 million, The company, which offers international that figure does not include department based firm, will take on Ippolito Etro’s up 4 percent compared with the previ- tax-free shopping services for tourists, said store purchases. role ad interim. ous year. The Milan-based firm last year Russia slipped down The long-term pic- “The Etro Group sincerely ac- stepped up its investments in China, one place in February ture — for the U.K., at knowledges Ippolito Etro’s worth and and a big fashion show event and ret- to become the U.K.’s least — is not nearly as the profitable job he has performed rospective are planned to take place in fourth-highest-spending bleak as the February over the years, which has allowed us Beijing on April 25 at the China Central global market, behind numbers. The govern- to reach important goals in Italy and Academy of Fine Arts. In 2013, Etro’s China, the Middle East 17% ment tourism agency abroad,” said Jacopo Etro. sales in the region grew 120 percent and Nigeria. Visit Britain expects He underscored that his family has through 13 boutiques, which the fash- Global Blue said DECLINE IN FEBRUARY SPENDING growth in spending no intention of relinquishing the com- ion house plans to double in number Russia is “consistent- BY RUSSIAN TOURISTS IN THE U.K. by Russian shoppers pany’s ownership. this year. ly” one of the top in- to grow 75 percent A market source said future growth Europe, where Etro operates stores ternational spenders by 2020. strategies may have been central in cities such as Milan, Paris, London, in the U.K., with shop- Global Blue noted in the reorganization. Ippolito and Barcelona, Munich and Vienna, ac- pers paying an average of 669 pounds, or that many U.K. luxury retailers are in- Jacopo Etro’s siblings, Veronica and counts for 48 percent of sales, and Italy, $1,102 at current exchange, per transac- troducing services to attract and accom- Kean, are women’s and men’s wear in particular, represents 18 percent tion. So far this year, Russian spending in modate the Russian shopper, including creative directors, respectively. Jacopo of total revenues. A first store dedi- the U.K. has decreased 16 percent. Russian-speaking staff and marketing Etro is also more of a creative mind, cated to its Home collection will open The company warned there could be materials, tax-free services, private leaving Ippolito Etro to deal with in Milan on Via Pontaccio in the arty more bad news on the way for British opening hours and cultural training. the business and commercial issues, Brera district. retailers and hoteliers: “As the ongoing Apart from Russia, international mar- “often in conflict with the other three As reported in December, Etro is ex- dispute between Russia and Ukraine kets continue to shop across the U.K. In siblings,” said the source. “I believe panding its presence in North America, continues, and Russia’s relationship with February, Global Blue said, spending by Gimmo Etro and his wife were think- its second-largest market. It has recent- the West deteriorates, the U.K. could feel Middle Eastern shoppers was up 31 per- ing of creating the conditions for the ly opened a new store in Beverly Hills a slowdown in growth from the Russian cent year-on-year, while Chinese spend- company to go forward and my impres- and last June relocated its Miami flag- tourism market.” ing was up 23 percent. sion was that they were balancing this ship in Bal Harbour. New units are ex- Gordon Clark, U.K. country manager of Southeast Asian nations also saw axis, but tension must have built up pected to open in Atlanta this year and Global Blue, said companies should contin- growth, with spending by shoppers and something must have happened Houston in 2015. Etro also counts two ue to focus on attracting Russian business. from Hong Kong up 23 percent year-on- that caused Ippolito to leave abruptly,” doors in New York City, in SoHo and on “Russia is still one of the top global year, and spending by consumers from said the source, adding that a public Madison Avenue. The latter was refur- shopper markets in the U.K. as high- Malaysia and Singapore, which were both listing “must have been considered, bished in 2012. There is also a boutique net-worth individuals are drawn to up 6 percent year-on-year in February. given the recent success of family com- in Manhasset, N.Y. WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 5 WWD.COM J. Jill Keeps the Focus on the Core Customer and well. But as a spokeswoman by Robin Kramer, and a new business is not all about putting ceiling and marble-topped acces- By DAVID MOIN said, “There is no deal pending. store in Fashion Valley Mall in out coupons and continually sell- sory tables. There’s a platform of Reports about J. Jill being up for San Diego has been developed ing at 40 percent.” mannequins, or “runway,” down THERE’S NOTHING FANCY, sale are all currently speculation. as a prototype. Existing units J. Jill’s research into its cli- the center to draw customers in. edgy or trendy about J. Jill, and This is the nature of ownership in Bellevue Square in Bellevue, ent base shows that more than On either side are little shops to that’s just fine for the enduring by a venture capital business.” Wash., the Galleria at Edina in 70 percent of its customers work showcase the collections. misses brand. J. Jill was founded in 1959 by Minneapolis and The Village at outside the home, have college The store is divided into four Kimono sweaters, ponte knit Karl and Mary Ann Lipsky, who Corte Madera in Corte Madera educations, are married or have main zones: for the knit domi- pants, relaxed leggings, sweater sold the business in 1987 to DM near San Francisco are being a partner. The average household nant Pure Jill subbrand, which is toppers and quilted vests — key Management, which sold it to either renovated or relocated in income is more than $155,000. introducing wovens this spring; looks that help define the brand Talbots in 2006. In 2009, Talbots the prototype format this year. Customers tend to be between the for casual weekend attire, denim, — are resonating with the Baby sold J. Jill for $63 million to The 234-unit J. Jill chain plans ages of 40 and 65, though J. Jill corduroy and leggings; for sweater Boomer customer base, accord- Golden Gate Capital, which two vests, slim pants, ponte pants and ing to J. Jill executives. years later sold a majority stake to Pima cotton shirts and T-shirts, Regarding its own outcome Arcapita, an investment firm and and, in the back of the store, in a season where most retailers the current owner. Golden Gate there are petites, as well as the saw declining sales and earnings, remains a minority shareholder. WearEver rayon/jersey collection, “We believe our results in the As Bennett and Fielder see which represents the dressiest fourth quarter compare favor- it, J. Jill has hit its stride by side of the line. J. Jill also sells ably to our competition,” Paula connecting with customers and plus and tall sizes, but only online. Bennett, chairman, president moving forward with a multi- Prices range from $60 to $200. and chief executive officer of J. channel approach. “There was “The prototype accomplishes Jill Group Inc., told WWD. “We an overall profit in 2013, as well more than a standard retail en- had positive comparable gains as consistent, strategic, profit- vironment, guiding customers in spite of a challenging environ- able growth for several years to the most important products ment. There’s been a positive re- prior to 2013,” Bennett said, and making the shopping easi- sponse to the collection and our without specifying the results. er,” Bennett said. “It took a lot full-price selling. We did become Other sources said earnings The J. Jill prototype. of effort to uncomplicate things. quite frumpy, but we’ve brought before interest, taxes, deprecia- That’s how we believe the store the brand back. It’s easy, relaxed tion and amortization are about experience should be executed. and still modern. We are very $60 million. The company ended to roll out 12 to 15 stores this executives prefer to characterize It really reflects what custom- [pleased] about where we are.” 2013 with sales of $455 million, year. “We can grow to up to 300 the appeal as ageless. “This is a ers love about J. Jill — simplic- “I don’t think we are looking about $30 million above 2012. stores by 2016,” Bennett said. woman who can afford to shop ity, relaxed femininity, nothing for a younger customer. We love About 60 percent of the volume The company operates two many places and cares about that’s overdone or with artifice, the one we’ve got,” added Joann is generated by the stores; 33 clearance centers, in Maine looking good,” said Bennett. or ever going out of style.” Fielder, J. Jill’s chief creative percent through the Web site, and North Carolina, and has no Before developing the Overall, the J. Jill look is pared officer. “We are not intending to and 7 percent is ordered directly physical outlets, though there 3,200-square-foot Short Hills down with enough details for be leading edge, though we do from the catalogue. E-commerce is a perpetual online outlet and prototype (the average unit is some distinction, and an empha- want to maintain a current point grew about 15 percent last year. clearance sales online. “We are 3,800 square feet), Kramer said sis on outfitting and earthy colors. of view. We wouldn’t be success- The company distributed 48 mil- building our full-price business she researched J. Jill’s DNA and Seasonless yarns, most often cot- ful if we went into trendier or lion catalogues last year through and focused on creating product customers and determined the ton-based, are emphasized, with a faster product.” 23 editions. “We have reduced our customer is happy to pay full objective with reviving the brand minimum of wool content. Their message is that after our circulation of catalogues, but price for. Outlets would be down was to “uncomplicate it.” So she “J. Jill stays very consistent. being flipped from owner to they’re our main marketing vehi- the road if we needed to drive created a store environment They don’t waiver,” observed owner and shedding the dowdier cle. We have a very strong multi- volume,” said Bennett. The brand with a wide entrance and tall Kramer. “The company has always styles, J. Jill is no longer teeter- channel platform,” said Bennett. message is not promotional, she windows for displays and views been very clear in its product of- ing. There’s been recent specu- Stores in The Mall at Short emphasized. “We have a regular into the store. Soft grays, winter fering, but it needed to be trans- lation that J. Jill is up for sale Hills in New Jersey and Walt markdown cadence and we have whites, warm woods and neutrals lated into the total experience of again by its current owners, and Whitman Shops in Huntington sales. We are in the game when permeate the space, along with the brand. Now the challenge for those on the inside are certainly Station, N.Y., have been reno- we need to be. We’re not ignoring textured pieces such as the rat- J. Jill is staying true to itself and flagging that the brand is alive vated to a prototype, designed what’s going on out there. But our tan basket lighting fixture on the not getting sidetracked.” Filings Shed Light on Ullman’s Compensation Nu Skin China Fined total compensation rise 4.6 percent last NU SKIN Enterprises Inc. said Nu Skin China By ARNOLD J. KARR Myron “Mike” year, to $8.2 million from $7.8 million. was fined in the aggregate of $540,000 in connec- Ullman 3rd His salary rose 0.7 percent to $1.3 mil- tion with the sale of certain products. MYRON “MIKE” ULLMAN 3RD could lion, matching an identical increase in The fines — following a review by the see his compensation quadruple in his his cash bonus, to $536,000. The sum of Administration of Industry & Commerce in first full year back as J.C. Penney Co. his stock and option awards rose 7.1 Shanghai, where Nu Skin China is based and Inc.’s chief executive officer. percent to $6 million. the AIC in Beijing, where Nu Skin has a branch Ullman, the current and former The highest-paid Kohl’s executive office — included $524,000 for certain products ceo of the troubled midtier depart- last year was Michelle Gass, who left sold by individual direct sellers who were unreg- ment store, earned $2.4 million after Starbucks to become chief customer istered for the direct-selling channel and $16,000 his return to Penney’s as ceo in April. officer in June. Her $12.1 million in for product claims that were deemed to lack suf- The sum included $811,000 for the reported compensation included a $1 ficient documentary support. prorated portion of his $1 million in million signing bonus and nearly $9.8 The Provo, Utah-based firm also said that annual salary and other compensa- million in stock awards to make up six sales employees were fined in the aggre- tion of $1.6 million, including $913,000 for amounts forfeited by her depar- gate of $241,000 for unauthorized promotional in personal use of corporate aircraft, ture from her former employer. activities. The company said it was asked to

making that perk larger than his col- JOHN AQUINO In another proxy filing, VF Corp. enhance the education and supervision of its lective paychecks, according to the de- reported that total compensation for sales representatives. finitive proxy filed with the Securities Eric Wiseman, chairman, president Nu Skin said, “The company is already taking and Exchange Commission. PHOTO BY and ceo, fell 16.9 percent to $11.8 mil- steps to correct the issues raised in the AIC reviews, But according to a subsequent parted Ron Johnson’s appointment lion last year as increases in his stock and is not aware of any other material enforcement SEC filing by Penney’s on Monday, as ceo in November 2011, he has no and option awards and salary were off- investigations currently pending in China.” that’s scheduled to change this year. employment contract with Penney’s. set by declines in his cash bonus and Nu Skin in January voluntarily suspended Ullman’s base salary has been raised Since succeeding Johnson, Ullman the largely accounting-based “change business promotional meetings and applica- to $1.5 million and, after forgoing eligi- has worked to shore up Penney’s in pension value and non-qualified de- tions for new sales representatives to fully bility for stock and option rewards and capital structure through a num- ferred compensation earnings.” cooperate with the regulatory reviews. The a cash bonus in 2013 as the company ber of moves, including a second- Wiseman’s salary rose 4.2 percent company said it will “seek direction from the faced a rapid cash burn and an uphill ary stock offering and an arrange- to $1.25 million, and his stock and Chinese government with respect to resuming battle to turn itself around, this year ment to develop land adjacent to the option awards expanded 31.6 per- normal business activities.” he will be eligible for a cash bonus firm’s headquarters in Plano, Tex. cent to $7.8 million. However, his “We continue to believe in the potential of of up to twice his salary and equity Sentiment about the company has im- bonus, or non-equity incentive plan China’s large and growing market,” said Dan awards of up to $5.5 million, making proved since late February, when it compensation, fell 21.4 percent to Chard, president of global sales and operations. his potential pay package $10 million. reported a less-than-expected fourth- $2.3 million, and the change in pen- “We remain committed to working cooperative- The payout on the awards is tied quarter loss coupled with an increase sion value column dropped more ly with the Chinese government to ensure the to such performance metrics as earn- in comparable sales. Shares Monday than 90 percent to $372,000. healthy, long-term growth of our business.” ings before interest, taxes, deprecia- closed at $8.60, up 1.3 percent and Because of vesting schedules and Stifel’s analyst Mark S. Astrachan said the tion and amortization and cash flow, 75.5 percent above the 52-week low of fluctuating stock prices, stock and op- resolution of Nu Skin’s China issues is a “posi- as well as appreciation of the com- $4.90 reached on Feb. 5. tion awards aren’t necessarily real- tive, in our view, given it could indicate a path pany’s stock and Ullman’s continuous As for pay packages detailed in SEC ized by the named executive but are towards resuming normal activities in the mar- employment with the company. filings for other companies in the in- required to be reported to the SEC ket. Mainland China accounted for 32 percent As during Ullman’s previous ten- dustry, at Kohl’s Corp., Kevin Mansell, at fair market value for the date on of 2013 sales and 60 percent of company sales ure, which ended with the now-de- chairman, president and ceo, saw his which they’re granted. growth from 2011 to 2013.” — VICKI M. YOUNG 6 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 WWD.COM sourcing horizons Wake-up Call Needed for U.S. Trade Policy {Continued from page one} ble on TPA has, for sure, slowed and development and central to Trade policy is stuck in port for now. down. There was a lot of expec- everything we did, people are tation something could move now running for cover on trade sooner. A lot of people were issues and the Democrats are no talking about getting something stronger on trade.” moved by late winter or early Huntsman, who served spring and that timetable is as U.S. ambassador to China clearly gone.” under Obama, and is a former Hughes said many trade ex- governor of Utah and was a perts believe the Obama admin- GOP presidential candidate in istration is trying to get as close 2012, added, “We’re in trouble as possible to finalizing TPP in terms of how we see trade as a way of “pushing for action as a nation and we need to on TPA.” She said she expects strengthen that.” TPA to get a vote in a lame duck Phillip Swagel, a profes- session of Congress this year, sor of international economic but does not expect TPP to get policy at the University of Congressional approval until Maryland, said Obama will early next year. need the support of more The Transatlantic Trade Republicans to push sev- and Investment Partnership eral pending trade measures accord between the U.S. and through Congress, including EU is much farther behind in trade promotion authority, an the negotiation phase than

Asia-Pacific trade deal with 11 IMAGEs TPP, but negotiators are con- countries and a transatlantic tinuing to hold rounds and ex- trade deal with the EU. change initial offers this year

“In my mind it is striking on a wide range of areas, in-

— when the president is ener- stR/AFp/GEtty cluding market access and the getic on an issue, it really en- phaseout of tariffs. ergizes the issue,” Swagel said. “From our perspective, this is “The most recent example was photo by a real opportunity to completely where he headed off [a nuclear union allies, his own party and Most trade experts argue eliminate tariffs between the

crisis] with Iran. He was re- Michael even Republicans, and helped he will first have to overcome U.S. and Europe,” Lamar said ally engaged on it and it got Froman get it past the finish line. another hurdle before he of T-T I P. things stopped. But he hasn’t “The unions were totally op- can conclude TPP — getting The AAFA sent a joint letter done the same thing on trade. posed to NAFTA,” said Julia Congressional approval on with Euratex to Froman and EU [Democrats] share a goal of a Hughes, president of the U.S. TPA, under which Congress Trade Commissioner Karel de

stronger economy and job cre- IMAGEs Fashion Industry Association. can only vote up or down on Gucht earlier this month, seek- ation, but they disagree whether “Republicans didn’t want to trade pacts negotiated’’ by the ing reciprocal duty elimination expanded trade is the route to a give anything to Clinton either, executive branch. on Day One of implementation stronger economy. which is not that different from Obama is facing opposition of T-T I P. The EU and U.S. re- “The worst outcome for trade these days. But Clinton was per- from many in his own party on cently exchanged their opening might be if Democrats maintain sonally engaged in the discus- TPA and TPP, including from proposals on tariff elimination a narrow control of the Senate sions…and he built a war room Senate Majority Leader Harry and must also work to find regu-

and then the left rises up against ERIC pIERMoNt/AFp/GEtty and had a very aggressive cam- Reid (D., Nev.) and several key latory convergence in several trade,” Swagel said, discuss- paign in the White House, as House Democrats. sensitive sectors, including cos- ing the midterm elections. “In well as throughout the agencies, There is a growing con- metics and pharmaceuticals. contrast, a narrow Republican photo by to push for it. I think that is a sensus that Congress will not Hughes said there is already majority in the Senate would Former President Bill good model and I certainly hope take up a vote on TPA until a “healthy relationship” between mean that the [trade] treaties Clinton set up a war room in the administration will eventu- after the midterm elections in the U.S. and EU on inputs and go forward. It’s an irony that the early Nineties to drum up ally move to be that aggressive.” November, which has added to finished products, where some the potentially largest economic support for the controversial Hughes added that U.S. the slowdown in the pace of the of the highest duties also exist. accomplishment for President North American Free Trade Trade Representative Michael trade agenda. Obama’s second term has a Agreement between the U.S., Froman has been thorough- greater prospect of success with Canada and Mexico, which ly engaged with members of a Republican Senate.” faced stiff opposition from his Congress and the private sector, as have several cabinet mem- We’re in trouble bers. Froman recently defend- ed the hard effort he and the in terms of how administration have put into making a case for TPA and the Trans-Pacific Partnership. we see trade as a “I think we’re out there and engaged and this is a long nation and game, and we’re going to con- tinue to make the case and en- we need to sure we’re making it real for the American public and their representatives in Congress,” strengthen that. said Froman, noting that many

cabinet secretaries have been — Jon Huntsman Jr., KoCh mobilized and are conducting atLantIC CounCIL outreach on trade. JoNAh “There is a process under- by

way on Capitol Hill,” Froman “I think it is looking increas- photo said. “A bill was introduced in ingly difficult to finish TPP be- January. There has been a tran- fore the midterms and I think “I would expect we would sition at the Senate Finance it looks like it is not going to end up with totally duty free Committee. Chairman [Ron] be possible to pass TPA before and total tariff elimination,” Wyden has now stepped into then,” said Joshua Meltzer, Hughes said. that position. He’s going to want a fellow on the global econ- But Meltzer said there has La Lame, Exclusive Suppliers of Stretch Fabrics to take the time necessary to omy and development at the already been some push back confer with the Democrats, as Brookings Institution. “Fast from the EU on the initial well as with the Republicans on track [as TPA was formerly tariff-dropping offer by the that committee, as well as with known] is needed’’ to get these U.S., which he said has been STRETCH AND RIGID ALLOVER AND NARROW LACES, PVC LEATHER, SPACERS his colleagues in the House to trade bills through Congress. In portrayed as a “low ball” ef- POWER MESH, MICROFIBER KNITS, METALLIC TULLE AND LACES, FOIL try build the broadest possible the absence of that, the other fort and not aggressive enough. GLITTER, FLOCK, EMBOSSING, BURNOUT PRINTS ON: MESH, TRICOT AND VELVETS NOVELTY ELASTIC TRIM: METALLIC, SHEER RUFFLES, LACE, PRINTS AND RHINESTONES support for TPA going forward.” negotiating parties tend not to Meltzer also said the T-T I P Obama will need all the want to finalize a deal because negotiations might run into help he can get to complete they don’t want to have them be its own complications this negotiations on the TPP pact picked apart by Congress.” year because of the European with Vietnam, Canada, Mexico, Stephen Lamar, execu- parliament elections in May, La Lame, Inc. Japan, Australia, Brunei, Chile, tive vice president at the which he said could change the Malaysia, New Zealand, Peru American Apparel & Footwear “composition of the important and Singapore. Association, said, “The timeta- EU players.”

w25a006a.indd 6 3/24/14 7:13 PM 03242014191424

8 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014

SOURCING HORIZONS materials at the Preview in New ports and attention to detail to York this past July. U.S. and European brands as “Our challenge is to rethink they seek to grow and recover the ways in which silk can be from the recent economic crisis. Emerging Markets manipulated and blended with “I want the ‘Made in Peru’ modern regenerated and syn- label to mean the quality of that thetic fibers,” said Jesse Lee, garment is better,” said Patricia a merchandiser in B.C. Corp.’s Flores Rodriguez, production New York office. chief of Textiles of Peru. The expos have been suc- Her company, which in 2013 cessful platforms for cutting- doubled its production over 2012 edge, high-tech firms, such as by annually turning out 400,000 Young Poong Filltex. The com- units of apparel and 400 tons of pany, which produces extreme textiles, is ranked 14th in textile weather-resistant materials with exports from Peru and expects to breathable water-repellent fab- move into the top 50 apparel ex- ric, left “Preview in Seoul” with porting companies in Peru by 2014. several deals, according to Hyun Textiles of Peru has done that, Jung Lee of the Young Poong she said, by keeping its costs low. Filltex planning team. It produces its knitted fabrics, but The Gyeonggi Textile Center in Los Angeles. The firm, which sells to outsources all of its sewing. The firms such as Bogner, Mammut, firm has quality-control inspec- Lacoste and Nautica, has more tors at every step of production, South Korea Buoyed by Trade Pact between buyers and suppliers in whose designs have adorned than 15 registered trademarks she said. Most of the firm’s ap- SEOUL — While it’s probably the two nations. Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Olympic for its lightweight fabrics. parel heads for the U.S. under the better known for its electron- Within one year of opening, champion ice skater Yuna Kim. South Korea has free-trade brands Southern Point Co., Harley- ics than fabrics, South Korea is nearly 350 contracts for textiles In New York, Mood Designer agreements and joint re- Davidson, Pippen Lane, Coast, emerging as a player in the glob- totalling $4.7 million were in the Fabrics owner Philip Sauma has search projects with 75 differ- Grande Plaine and Agape North. al textile industry. works. Now the center has ex- noticed the shift. Traditionally, ent countries, according to the Alfredo Malatesta, chief The South Korean textile in- panded and opened offices in “Italy, Japan and France are the Switzerland-based International executive officer of the dustry recorded $16.3 billion New York to help promote the countries more recognized for Textile Manufacturers California-based apparel maker in exports in 2013, surpassing province’s more than 2,800 textile- high-quality fabrics,” he said. “But Federation. — SONYA BEARD Intercontex Inc., which sources its 10-year high of $15.9 billion related firms. South Korea is look- the quality of fabrics produced by in 2011, according to the Korea ing to narrow that gap through a Korea has improved dramatically.” Federation of Textile Industries combination of government and One Seoul-based textile firm (KOFOTI). For the year end- private sector initiatives. even managed to capture the at- ing Jan. 31, South Korea was “Our vision is to initiate a tex- tention of Fédération du Prêt- the second-largest supplier of tile renaissance,” KOFOTI chair- à-Porter president Jean Pierre fabric to the U.S., with imports man Ro Hee Chan said in an an- Mocho. Ludia Co., which spe- worth $511.7 million and an 8.5 nual report on the state of the cializes in outerwear and ac- percent market share, accord- industry, adding that South Korea cessories and counts Burberry, ing to the U.S. Fashion Industry is aiming to increase textile ex- Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Apparel is Association. In March 2012, the ports to $21.2 billion by 2020. Moncler as clients, was invit- assembled in U.S.-Korea Free Trade Agreement South Korean President ed by Mocho to show its Bliss Lives’ production BARRETT went into effect, substantially cut- Park Geun-hye’s newly formed line of viscose rayon at Paris room. The factory ting tariffs and setting a schedule Ministry of Trade, Industry and Fashion Week in 2010, accord- employs about JOYCE to eliminate them within 10 years. Energy is now overseeing the ing to a company spokeswoman. 500 workers.

In comparison, China re- campaign to give South Korea an Since then, Ludia has been PHOTO BY mains the largest supplier to edge in the global market by in- one of the firms featured at the the U.S. fabric market with $1.73 creasing the foreign labor force, Preview in Seoul trade fairs. Peru Pushes Quality about 15 percent of its work in billion and a 29 percent market investing in research and devel- KOFOTI sponsors the expos, LIMA, Peru — It doesn’t take Peru, said, “Peru can’t compete share over the same time period. opment and cultivating brands. which are held in New York, Los long for a textile or apparel against Asian prices. People go In response to the Korea-U.S. The country has long been a Angeles, Beijing, Shanghai and maker in Lima to start talking to Peru for quality, not price.” FTA, the Gyeonggi Textile Center source for midmarket textiles, South Korea. about quality control. Christian Asbeck, who found- opened in Los Angeles to manage but some companies are aiming The South Korean silk pur- With prices that can’t com- ed the Lima apparel company overseas marketing and provide a higher, according to Lie Sang veyor B.C. Corp., which manu- pete with China’s low-cost ex- Venator nine years ago, exports one-stop sourcing showroom. The Bong, president of the Council of factures fabrics for women’s ports and ambitions as high as all of his production to the U.S. center, created by government of- Fashion Designers of Korea. ready-to-wear, sportswear and the Andes’ peaks, Peru’s indus- and Europe. His company saw ficials in South Korea’s Gyeonggi “Firms are experimenting formalwear and has been used try executives are touting their production double in 2013, with Province and the Gyeonggi Small with new techniques and more by Zac Posen, Jason Wu and high-quality Pima cotton and 45,000 units in sweaters and and Medium Business Center, expensive textiles to target a Lela Rose, had the opportunity alpaca, quick turnaround abil- about 30,000 units in T-shirts. has been advising on trade issues higher-end market,” said Lie, to present its intricately woven ity, short shipping times to U.S. Some 60 percent of his produc- tion is for the U.S. market and the remainder ships to Europe. Venator is typical of most of Peru’s textile and apparel export- ing firms, according to PromPeru, which handles international mar- keting for the domestic industry. Asbeck said Peru has the equivalent of two levels of textile and apparel industries: one that produces for the Peruvian mar- ket, and a second that manufac- tures for export. Those firms in pursuit of the domestic market have been hard hit by low-cost Chinese exports, he said. Others after the higher-end export mar- ket are doing better, he noted. In the first 10 months of 2013, textile and apparel exports to the U.S. were down 17.7 per- cent, according to the Sociedad Nacional de Industrias/National Industries’ Society. Through Oct. 31, total exports were $1.4 billion compared $1.76 billion in the same period in 2012. Rodriguez at Textiles of Peru said her company is developing markets in other Latin American countries, and early in 2014 plans to open a European office in France. Veronica Telge, ceo of the Lima apparel maker Lives, said about 10 percent of her firm’s production goes to Latin America, another 10 percent goes to Europe, and the remain- ing 80 percent heads for the U.S. — JOYCE BARRETT WWD tuesday, march 25, 2014 9 WWD.COM Indigo Handloom interested buyers with Tale of Two Strategies in Los Angeles its ikat scarves handwoven in India. Indigo handloom; metallic- tried to win over customers with By Khanh T.L. Tran coated cotton bouclé from Italy’s both its prepared-for-dyeing Twelve, and silver Leavers lace textiles and Made in USa story. LOS anGELES — novelty and that featured a geometric lat- Its 8-oz. cotton twill costs less texture attracted designers who tice bordered by a floral pattern than $3.50 a yard, and its French were benefiting from a recov- from France’s Solstiss. as for twill, made with Cone Mills’ cot- ering economy, and attending the color palette, metallic tones ton, is priced at $3.95 a yard. the Los angeles International stood out, while colors segued amanda Blake was one of Textile Show. from light pastels to drenched the designers who sought dye- Displaying collections for jewel tones and rainbow brights. able options. For her women’s

spring 2015, the 250 exhibitors Searching for trims and but- brand called Calder, which was sardella at the California Market Center tons, Shari Bender, designer of launched this spring at bou-

represented domestic vendors Duna Designs, which retails its tiques such as Bird and Ten donato from Los angeles and Chicago, California-made knits for $400 Over Six with cotton pieces re- along with foreign mills from to $700, said, “If it’s interesting, tailing for $74 to $250, she bud- France, Italy, Spain, South we’ll do it,” regardless of price. gets for fabric that costs less photo by Korea, Turkey and India. Lynda Baxis, who designs than $10 a yard and can be gar- such as gold and white. Prices offer available only at the show. While shopping the show, women’s contemporary knits ment-dyed or printed because are $7 to $30 a yard. With a 20-yard minimum, it sold several designers considered and sportswear for The Outpost “it gives you a lot of flexibility,” Show organizers diversified some styles for $5 a yard. the market dynamics that are Trading Co. and Grand Junction she said. the textile options with new par- The allure of the U.S. market polarizing consumer spending in Los angeles, said most of her also exhibiting with Lenzing ticipants that offer manufactur- couldn’t keep away some for- at retail. On one end, bargain fabrics cost $15 to $25 a yard. Fibers, Los angeles-based ace ing and full-package services. eign vendors. India’s Manuela shopping and fast fashion are “We are careful, but [pric- Fabric & Trim attracted cus- Founded four years ago, L.a. returned as an exhibitor for booming with consumers who ing’s] not an issue,” she said. tomers with its natural yarns Tex & Garment Inc. met with the first time since 2010. The yearn for quick hits of trends. “It’s more about the exclusive and flexibility with orders, contemporary sportswear de- american market makes up 45 On the other, consumers are type of fabric we can get.” which suited many of the small signers from Miami, Portland percent of its total business, and willing to save up for special appealing to California de- brands and emerging design- and San Francisco who were most of its U.S. sales come from items made with quality and ex- signers’ strong interest in knits, ers that shopped the fair. Its interested in its manufacturing Los angeles. Offering hand-em- clusive materials. as such, de- Lenzing Fibers sponsored 17 prices ranged from $4 to $8 for services. The company uses a bellished trims such as colorful signers either stuck to a certain companies that specialize in fake leather, $7 to $12 for cot- factory in China, and charges ethnic beads at $14 a yard and budget or didn’t heed pricing fabrics made with Modal and ton eyelet and $15 to $30 for $20 to $50 a garment with a gold sequined strips for $21 a at all as long as the style struck Tencel yarns. One of them, Knit embroidered lace. 300-piece minimum. although yard, Manuela must contend them as superior. house from Vernon, Calif., drew “We don’t have minimums if owner Shannon Bamrick, who with growing concern about so- Popular items at the exhibi- designers who prefer to gar- we have it in stock,” said sales previously worked at Majestic cial compliance, the environ- tion included linen knits from ment-dye with its fabrics priced manager Efren Magsino. “They Mills, said she didn’t feel pres- ment and workers’ conditions in Japan’s Yagi; orange geometric from $4 to $12 a yard. can buy a roll or two rolls to sure to manufacture in the its Indian factory. prints on organic cotton jersey “ Yo u can buy a thousand start with.” U.S., she conceded that her “More people are asking from Minneapolis-based Josi yards and get five colors out of reversible styles also worked minimum requirement for or- about lead-free and nickel-free Severson; burnout linen and it,” said sales representative for designers who wanted to ders is still difficult for small, [products],” said owner Shaan polyester in a black-and-white Barbara Montz. give value to their customers. a growing brands. Ghosh, noting that such goods nature pattern from Italy’s Corti King america Textile Group, first-time exhibitor from Italy, D&n Textiles of Beverly cost 25 percent more and re- Marcello; ikat handwoven in the Chicago company that op- 496 Fabric Lab, offered denim hills acknowledged the preva- quire tests for verification. “We India for Oakland, Calif.-based erates a factory in Dover, Ga., jacquard in vivid combinations lence of start-ups with a special are trying to source that.”

July 22−24, 2014 Javits Convention Center New York, NY

NEW YORK OUR APPAREL

The world is colored with possibilities. How you look at it is up to you. It’s your imagination. Your style. Your eye. We add a colorful lens to your vision. With Pantone’s insight and tools, you have the power to make it well-designed. Make it vivid. Make it memorable. Make it yours. Make it Brilliant.

Find out how you can Make it Brilliant at pantone.com

PANTONE® and other Pantone trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. Pantone LLC is a wholly owned subsidiary of X-Rite, Incorporated. © Pantone LLC, 2014. All rights reserved. Free entry online www.apparelsourcingshow.com

w25a009a.indd 9 3/24/14 4:33 PM 03242014163536 10 WWD tuesday, march 25, 2014 Tok yo CollectionsFall 2014 Yasutoshi Ezumi Johan Ku Mikio Sakabe ThE ShOwS cAME TO A clOSE wiTh TOKYO’S TYpicAllY ArTiSTic AND zANY lOOKS MixED iN wiTh A NEw plAY ON chic clASSicS. Yasutoshi Ezumi: Yasutoshi Ezumi turned out a putting many of his models in glittery masks that com- collection rooted in classics that looked interesting pletely concealed their faces, and others in silver and with asymmetric cuts and bold tailoring. Sleek coats, gold headpieces in the shapes of cat and bear heads. circle skirts and button-up shirts were done in men’s wear materials — the textile of choice for numerous Kidill: Hiroaki Sueyasu showed a Kidill collection brands showing in Tokyo this season. A plaid pattern of streetwear with influences as varied as hunting, ran throughout in several colorways, while uneven formalwear and animation. There were lots of hemlines and contrasting panels were also prevalent. wide, calf-length shorts with crotches so low they An interesting flared dress, for instance, came with sometimes looked like skirts, paired with tuxedo- leather sleeves and side inserts made of a synthetic inspired shirts and hoodies with the sleeves cut fabric; a short-sleeve gown was worked in various just above the elbow. Pants came fuller through the black-and-white plaids and checks with contrasting thigh and tapered from the calf down, many in rustic panels and leather bands. plaids, checks and blanket stripes. For a bit of humor, a series of brightly colored Johan Ku: London-based designer Johan Ku said the cartoonlike motifs — including a human heart, wolf fantasy film “Pan’s Labyrinth” inspired him for fall. and three-eyed chipmunk — were knit into sweaters He evoked rich, forestlike textures with chunky and appliquéd to T-shirts and the backs of jackets. knits and a series of intricate patchworks combining The show closed with jacket-and-shorts combos in an lace, satin and metallics. His palette was dark — allover wolf pattern that, from a distance, resembled mostly black with touches of deep teal, red and bits camouflage. of shimmer. Asymmetric sweaters and ponchos were knitted Yoshio Kubo: Yoshio Kubo often sends his models down from thick yarns, and panels of shaggy fur added the runway in wacky hair and makeup. This season texture to sleeves and hemlines. he featured a series of helmetlike wigs in styles There were a few men’s outfits done in similar including Mohawks, dreadlocks and braids. patchworks and shiny stuff, with one look that paired The majority of the looks were casual and street- an open-knit black sweater with slim textured pants. ready, with pieces such as oversize rain ponchos, blouson jackets and tops in geometric prints, and out- Mikio Sakabe: Design duo Mikio Sakabe and his erwear trimmed in bright aqua fur. Some jackets had Taiwanese wife Shueh-Jen Fang have a reputation extra panels of fabric attached to the back hem, giv- for theatrics, and this season they reprised a gender- ing the impression of a long shirt layered underneath. bending stunt they carried out for fall last year. They Kubo also injected a dose of preppiness into the used male models to show their women’s and men’s collection via patterned sweater vests, Fair Isle zip- lineups, although at times it was hard to distinguish up cardigans and a navy sweater with red and white which was which. stripes and a trompe l’oeil gold medal around the neck. The designers worked Chinese fabrics, symbols and detailing into a collection with an eclectic Alice Auaa: The designer of Alice Auaa, one of Japan’s Tokyo street-fashion vibe. Some of the more most popular Goth brands, Yasutaka Funakoshi approachable fare included shrunken sweaters with mined the realm of S&M this season, sending his girls fruit motifs and paper-bag-waist trousers. As for the out in masked headpieces with whip attachments kooky, traditional Mao-collar shirts came cropped sprouting from the tops. Metallic contraptions Kidill Yoshio Kubo Alice Auaa at chest level, and a black shirt had giant, ground- covered parts of their posteriors and branched grazing silk sleeves. out into taillike forms. When exposed, the models’ Most of the clothes had a sculptural quality — a shoulders were blackened to look as if they were group of calligraphic tops featured geometric cutouts, rubbed down with charcoal. and for the finale, a model appeared wrapped in a As with his past efforts, Funakoshi put a great structural piece shaped like a ribbon. amount of detail into the tailored constructions with corsetry, ruffles, studs, straps and other A Degree Fahrenheit: Yu Amatsu’s A Degree Fahrenheit embellishments. Strip away the accoutrements, and collections are always themed around a certain a few of the dresses — including a leather minidress temperature, and often consist of looks in one color. with oversize short sleeves and wide hips — were For fall, he used the temperature of 6,000 degrees quite wearable. The racier looks featured conical kelvin, which represents “the unstable state of a bras, netting and harnesses. cloudy sky during the day, neither sunny nor rainy.” Starting with black, the designer showed elegant, Dresscamp: Known for his bold, statement-making well-cut pieces that transitioned into muted shades clothes, Toshikazu Iwaya delivered a Dresscamp of mint green, blues, grays and ivory. Dresses ranged collection that combined Baroque, dandy and sporty from knee- to floor-length with slim to full skirts, most influences. For women, that meant romantic ruffled cinched at the waist with wide, black leather belts. blouses, tulle skirts and dresses in floral motifs — Details like long, flowing ruffles, attached capes and either as prints, appliqués or fake-flower trimmings. fur muffs gave the pieces a refined yet modern twist. For men (all of whom sported wispy painted-on For the finale, Amatsu showed a series of identi- mustaches), there were puffer jackets, slim pants, cal shirtdresses in a range of tones representing the tracksuits and shirts with large, floppy bows. changes in the sky between sunrise and sunset: from Many of the prints and patterns were shown for cream to blue to yellow, orange and red. both genders, including Baroque swirls, dalmatian spots and a belt strap motif. Some of the sharper Motonari Ono: Motonari Ono is known for his romantic looks included a guy’s parka and matching shorts in flourishes and detailing but this season he turned orange-and-black swirls and a woman’s majorette- to the Swinging Sixties. He worked a range of retro style tartan jacket and miniskirt worn with a heart- wallpaper prints into dresses and stovepipe pants, printed blouse. topping them with some cool outerwear looks including a wool coat with lace trim and several riffs Ariunaa Suri: Mongolian designer Ariunaa Suri named on shearling jackets. her fall collection “Punk Urban.” Most pieces were There were Mod-ish dresses with ruffles peeking shown in both women’s and men’s versions, including out from under the hem, and a couple of saucy skirts slim-fitting trousers paired with draped tops and sporting long fringe. Other highlights included color- raw-edged leather jackets, as well as shearling blocked blouses with lace accents and baseball jackets with crossover front openings. The palette jackets crafted from a mixture of men’s wear fabrics. was mostly made up of muted shades of gray, blue, aqua green and black, but pops of yellow appeared Né-net: Staying true to Né-net’s penchant for playful, throughout, such as on the lining of a sculptural, quirky clothes, designer Kazuaki Takashima tapped zippered skirt and on the elbow crease of several into manga and cutesy animal motifs for fall. Key gray asymmetric jackets. silhouettes included A-line skirts, shirtdresses, rompers and squarish tops, all shown in various Afriqan Apeiron: England-born designer Crystabel Getty oddball prints: cartoonish eyes, gemstones, comic launched her Afriqan Apeiron brand in 2012, showing book-style illustrations and girls’ faces with tufts of in Tokyo for the first time this season. Her collection sewn-on fringe for hair. There were also a few pleated of batik clothes included cropped tops, long slit skirts skirts done in gold lamé and some pieces shown in a and strong-shouldered dresses in bold acid green, shiny gingham check. orange and turquoise hues. Many pieces featured Takashima engaged in a bit of theatrical styling, trimmings in beads resembling gemstones.

w25a010(11)a;10.indd 1 3/24/14 6:25 PM 03242014182702 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 11 WWD.COM

Mikio Sakabe Mikio Sakabe A Degree Fahrenheit Motonari Ono Né-net

Alice Auaa Dresscamp Ariunaa Suri Ariunaa Suri Afriqan Apeiron

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.COM/ runway. GIANNONI AND YUKIE MIYAZAKI GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 12 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 Tokyo Fashion Week Earns Plaudits Despite Hurdles porting brands from Europe and the U.S. Japanese fabrics translate through the Although a weak yen helps make By AMANDA KAISER She said the store’s multibrand retail con- design and structure of garments. Japanese clothing more attractive to for- cept on the third floor currently stocks about “In terms of color, design, trend, eign buyers, House expressed some con- TOKYO — Retailers generally praised 80 percent of its merchandise from Japanese shape, I think that Japan is on par with cern about Japanese brands’ pricing strate- the collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion brands and the rest from imported brands. Europe as well. It’s just the footwear gies. He said the brands needed to be more Week Tokyo, but said the timing of the “I think for Japanese designers…it’s a and maybe the type and quality of fab- realistic about the value of their names shows and prices might limit their buying. big chance,” she said. ric that could be the next part to work while they are still relatively unknown Key trends at the six days of shows, which Kazuyoshi Minamimagoe, senior cre- on. Because I think in men’s wear they identities outside their home market. ended Saturday, included the use of men’s ative director at Beams, said he felt it was have it nailed,” said Wooster, a guest of “I’ve found that few Japanese brands wear fabrics, variations on suiting, baseball/ a stronger season for men’s than for wom- Tokyo Fashion Week organizers. have any appreciation of export reali- varsity jackets, romper suits for both genders en’s. That is a common refrain at Tokyo Natalie Kingham, head of fashion ties; some have even tried to charge a and asymmetric detailing. Buyers, some of Fashion Week. His top picks for men’s for U.K.-based Matches, was enthusias- premium to me because they think I whom received complementary trips to were Yoshio Kubo and Mr. Gentleman. For tic about the brands she encountered in sell at a higher price and therefore that Tokyo from the Japanese government and women’s, he liked Facetasm. Japan, although she declined to name I make a higher margin than Japanese fashion week organizers, were mostly upbeat “For a little while now there have been drop out of a fear of giving away “trade retailers,” House said. “There is also a in terms of the quality and execution more men’s brands [than women’s of the designs. Still, there are some ones] that have an energy and lingering questions, including are interesting. And I also Mint Facetasm Support the fact it is already late in the think there are a lot of them Designs Surface fall buying season. FALL 2014 that really show a kind of Tokyo Fashion Week or- Tokyo-ness,” he said. “What ganizers said international TOKYO I thought when I saw Yoshio buyer registrations for Kubo’s show was that the the fall shows rose to 212, COLLECTIONS men’s style in Tokyo is kind of up from 192 last season in genderless. And it’s different October. Registrations from from the European kind of gen- China dropped to 48 from 52 derlessness — like J.W. Anderson in October, while those from the putting men in skirts. It’s men’s U.S. grew to 35 from 28 last season. looks, but with a kind of femininity.” Those were the two top markets. Similarly, Nick Wooster, a consultant Miyako Sekimoto, fashion director for who formerly worked for Neiman Marcus Matsuya and a Tokyo Fashion Week regu- and Atrium, said he thinks the city’s men’s lar, said she appreciated an individualist brands are more “fully developed” than the spirit among the designers this season. “I women’s in terms of understanding inter- think that each designer showed…more national customers. His top picks for men’s YUKIE MIYAZAKI characteristics of their brand,” she said, were Mr. Gentleman, Yoshio Kubo and 99%IS adding that Mint Designs and Support from South Korean-born designer Bajowoo. Surface were her two favorite shows. Specifically, Wooster said women’s “Everybody did different things.” brands in Japan need to think more about Sekimoto said she thinks Matsuya Ginza how footwear alters the perception of the will stock more merchandise from Japanese volume and movement of the clothes. He brands this fall as a weak yen cuts into the also said they need to do a better job with store’s buying power when it comes to im- fabric selection and making high-quality GIANNONI, ALL OTHERS GIOVANNI BY PHOTO BY FACETASM

secrets.” She said she was impressed sense that they don’t appreciate what with brands’ use of traditional Japanese supports a market price — they feel that fabric treatments like shibori — a tie- quality/cost of production is the key de- dye technique dating back centuries. terminant rather than appreciating the Kingham said she thinks brands that tap importance of consumer perception.” into their Japanese identity stand the Beppe Nugnes, who owns and runs on- summit best chance of resonating with Western line multibrand retailer Nugnes1920.it as consumers. Kingham said Matches has well as three stores in the southern Italian done well with the Japanese brands town of Trani, said he is planning to pick 2 014 it already carries such as Toga, Julien up Still by Hand and some accessories NEW YORK CitY David and Undercover, which prompted for fall. But Nugnes, a Jetro guest, said he ND JuNE 2 her trip here. The Japan External Trade is unable to buy more because there are Organization (Jetro) subsidized her trip. high tariffs to bring the merchandise back “There are things to be found over to Italy and his budget is limited because here that are unique,” she said. it’s the tail end of the fall buying season. Eric Pech, men’s and luxury buyer Nugnes said he thought Japanese de- for Galeries Lafayette, said he is always signers succeeded in terms of manufac- on the hunt for new Japanese brands. turing quality and their attention to de- “Japanese designers do a great job…. tail on particular pieces but they need to [There’s a] good balance between cre- think more broadly in terms of develop- ativity and [the] commercial aspect,” he ing a cohesive and commercial collection. said, citing the presence of the season’s “They concentrate on an idea but big trends like oversize shapes, techni- they don’t sufficiently expand on that cal fabrics and the color purple in the idea to create enough other products,” collections he saw here. said Nugnes. Pech, also a Jetro guest, said Still Some retailers and fashion week at- by Hand, Diet Butcher Slim Skin and tendees complained about logistical prob- Nude:Masahiko Maruyama caught his lems within the Japanese fashion system. eye but he needed to look at his bud- As in past seasons, there were large gaps get since it is late in the season and his of several hours in the schedule with no team will start to buy spring pre-collec- shows or events. Another complicating fac- tions in just six weeks time. tor is that brands often hold their market Kevin House, who runs a recently presentations a week after their runway launched U.K.-based e-commerce site shows or even later. Meanwhile, a few dedicated exclusively to Japanese brands, such as Anrealage and Christian women’s fashion called Collectionaires. Dada, decided to stage their runway THE CHANGE AGENTS com, said he liked Yasutoshi Ezumi shows a full week after fashion week. and Somarta as well as select pieces Wooster said this type of thinking from Atsushi Nakashima and Lamarck. needs to change to attract more foreign But he cited a lack of consistency else- buyers to Tokyo. where, without naming names. “I know a retailer in the United wwd.com/fnny “A couple of designers that I’ve liked States that buys Japanese brands and… To aT Tend: kim _ [email protected] 212.630.4212 before have disappointed me by seem- the three different brands that he buys To sponsor: amber _ [email protected] 212.630.4824 ing to leave behind the strengths I saw all have exhibitions on three different in the last two seasons, particularly in weeks. So if you’re a retailer, you need to sponsored By: terms of moving towards more casual come once and not three times,” he said. or softer styles… and [become] conse- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS quently less distinctive,” he said. FROM KELLY WETHERILLE WWD tuesday, march 25, 2014 13 WWD.COM Shiffman to Succeed Murry as Calvin Klein CEO {Continued from page one} the operational side of the business. Murry situation. “We’re in the midst of that, and Murry asked for PVH chairman and ceo will probably spend some time in his advi- Steve Shiffman and Tom Murry the integration has gone very well. it’s a Emanuel Chirico’s permission to acceler- sory role looking to create a complementary turnaround and it will take some time.” ate his retirement, and Chirico agreed. management team going forward, he said. The first season under CKi is spring “Tom’s accomplishments at the com- Shiffman sees expanding the inter- 2014. “We’ll get it turned around. Manny

pany have been nothing short of amazing,” national footprint as a top priority in his [Chirico] has said on record, the invest- said Chirico. “Under his leadership, Calvin new role. ment in those businesses are more than we Klein has grown from $2.8 billion in global “When you look at the globe, there anticipated…we’re on schedule and we’re retail sales to close to $8 billion in 2013, hav- are huge opportunities in Asia, and on track and that’s why i felt comfortable ing evolved from a licensed-only model to a many parts of india and Australia, South accelerating my timetable,” said Murry. more directly operated business.” Chirico America in particular, and obviously in “our jeans and underwear business was

said Murry was instrumental in helping Europe. We’re looking to layer on and overpenetrated in Spain and italy, which PVH acquire CKi in 2002 “and was a great leverage our jeans and underwear plat- has put additional pressure on us. [Sister partner working through the Warnaco acqui- form. We’re looking to convert many company] Tommy Hilfiger is very strong in sition and integration to date.” parts of the world from a classifications Northern Europe, so CKi is putting their Shiffman, 56, joined PVH in 1992, and business of jeans and underwear into a business on Hilfiger’s platform,” he said. is a member of the PVH corporate oper- lifestyle business and offer sportswear Murry said that while the European econ- ating committee. He has overseen the and other’’ categories,” he said. The over- omy is still struggling, and its Calvin Klein Aquino global commercial operations of the CKi seas business is a combination of whole- jeans aren’t through the pipeline yet, what

business, reporting to and working closely sale and retail business. “in combination John they’ve been doing is improving the stores with Murry, with direct oversight of North there are significant opportunities,” said and in-store presentations and building American retail and e-commerce busi- Shiffman, who has spent a lot of time in new showrooms in multiple cities. photo by nesses, Asia-Pacific and Latin American the last year and a half traveling in Asia, Murry described the other CKi business- operations, as well as global licensing and South America and Europe. street” in the U.S., but he declined to es in Europe as either “good or very good.” creative services. Earlier, Shiffman served Shiffman called the Asian business divulge details. Right now there’s only “our watch business is very strong and as group president and chief operating of- very good, with the strongest market one freestanding Collection store, on our fragrance business is very large and ficer of PVH Retail, where he oversaw the being China. “We have a very formidable Madison Avenue in Manhattan. stable. Footwear is oK,” said Murry. “i company’s retail divisions. Before that, he business in China, Korea, Hong Kong, “As you know we licensed the don’t think you’ll talk to too many brands was president and chief operating officer Singapore, in particular,” said Shiffman. [Collection] business and almost destroyed right now who have really good businesses of Calvin Klein Retail, where he headed The company just signed a joint venture in it. We only got it back in spring 2009, which in Europe. Yo u see what’s going on over all aspects of retail apparel and the acces- Australia. on Monday, PVH Corp. signed seems like a long time ago, but it isn’t. Not there. We keep hearing about improve- sories business, including design, sourc- an agreement with Arvind Brands and when you have to rebuild a whole company. ment in the economic environment, but i ing, merchandising, planning, distribution Retail Ltd. as its joint venture partner for Now we’re executing well, shipping a qual- haven’t seen much evidence of it yet.” and visual marketing. ity product on time, opening As for Murry’s contribution to CKi, Chirico said Shiffman brings new accounts every season. Chirico said the brand successfully tran- a familiarity with the brand and We’re looking to convert many parts We’re very proud of the prod- sitioned from being a private company a deep retail knowledge to the uct out there. Yo u have to look under founders Calvin Klein and Barry business. With the acquisition of at this business as a very long- Schwartz (who left after selling the busi- The Warnaco Group inc., he said of the world from a classifications term business,” said Murry. ness in 2003). “Tom has led our efforts to about 55 percent of PVH’s busi- He said that the company transition that to a public company envi- ness is direct to consumer, either business of jeans and underwear gets a tremendous amount of ronment. Yo u can never replace a Calvin e-commerce or in their own re- publicity from the Collection Klein but he’s been able to build a pro- tail stores. “That’s Steve’s area into a lifestyle business and offer business, generating $400 fessional organization that’s been able to of expertise,” said Chirico. The million a year in advertising continue that legacy going forward. We’ve business units, both internation- cost equivalent “which is very never missed a beat at all,” said Chirico. ally and domestically, have been sportswear and other categories. valuable. The coverage of our Murry joined CKi in 1996 as presi- reporting to Shiffman, “and it runway shows is amazing. it’s dent of the global bridge business. Two was a natural progression for us — Steve Shiffman, calvin klein inc. a very worthwhile business. years later, he assumed responsibility for as we went forward,” he said. We’re very focused now on the Calvin Klein Collection for women, Shiffman’s successor hasn’t been its Calvin Klein businesses in india. creating a bigger commercial success but including apparel and accessories. in named yet. Shiffman has been overseeing the e- it’s going to take time,” said Murry. 1999, he was promoted to president and Chirico said he’s not looking for big commerce business at CKi the last seven Fifty percent of CKi’s business contin- chief operating officer of CKi, succeeding changes at CKi, since it’s performing so years, which he sees as another big growth ues to be generated in North America, 30 Gabriella Forte, who left the company. in well. He looks to continue the momentum opportunity. Asked whether CKi is as de- percent in Europe and the Middle East, 2008, Murry was named president and ceo. and integration of the Warnaco business veloped in e-commerce as its competitors, and 20 percent in Asia, said Murry. “The Prior to joining CKi, Murry spent six years into PVH. “We still have some system he replied, “i think we have a ways to go. percent to total has remained relatively as corporate president of Tahari Ltd. conversions and integrations going on, i think we’ve done a good job, but there’s constant all of these years, which really Asked what were his biggest accom- which ultimately is his responsibility,” definitely room for improvement.” All of speaks to the geographic diversification plishments at CKi, Murry replied: “i think said Chirico. “With the Warnaco acquisi- Klein’s products in North America are of the company,” said Murry. in the U.S., i have made a number of contributions. i tion, we’re making significant acquisitions represented on the Web site, except for Calvin Klein merchandise is distributed better have after 17 years. i think if i had in people, product, design, marketing and Collection. “But we do have plans to add it in 2,000 department stores. to pick something and rank it i would say presentation of our product globally.” in the future,” said Shiffman. in discussing how Calvin Klein Jeans team building and creating and maintain- Chirico said Murry’s skill sets are more Speaking of Collection, Murry said’’ was performing these days following ing a team culture. if you don’t have that, it on the marketing and creative side, where- they intend to open another Collection PVH’s $2.9 billion acquisition of Warnaco doesn’t matter how much talent you have, as Shiffman’s skill sets skew more toward store “on a very high-profile luxury last year, Murry called it a turnaround you can not accomplish your objectives.” Google Inks Glass Deal With Luxottica Pinterest to Launch Paid Ads PiNTEREST iS getting into the paid advertising space, join- try out the $1,500 Explorer edition. Google revealed the first in- ing its social media peers Facebook, instagram and Twitter. By RACHEL STRUGATZ While this collaboration isn’t house designed frames for Glass in The site is expected to launch promoted pins during the part of Glass’ public launch, January. Sunglass styles retail for second quarter of this year — they will look much like the GooGLE iS cozying up to the fash- Google will be able to take advan- $150 and optical styles are priced current pins, except they will have a notification along the ion world more and more. tage of Luxottica’s vast retail and a bit higher at $225. bottom that says “promoted pins.” it is further proof that on Monday, the technology giant wholesale channels in the U.S. “We’re making it a more natural digital ads across the social mediums play an increasingly said it will partner with eyewear once the product sees an official part of your life. [Wearing Glass] will integral role in online marketing. firm Luxottica as Google readies rollout. Google has not revealed a be easier with this, plus you have Brands like TRESemmé and Four Seasons have tested for the consumer launch of its more choices,” Google Glass promoted pins on the four-year-old Pinterest so far. As far Glass product later this year. Google Glass lead designer isabelle olsson as rates go, advertisers have the option of paying via cost- Financial terms of the new told WWD at the Google Glass per-thousand impressions or cost per click. deal were not revealed, and it Basecamp in Manhattan’s According to digital analyst firm eMarketer, nearly 35 applies only to the U.S. Chelsea Market earlier this million users accessed the site on a monthly basis in 2013. The italian-based de- year. “it’s a very natural exten- This number is expected to increase 12 percent this year, signer, manufacturer and sion of things that you already reaching 38.8 million. Advertising on social networks over- distributors of eyewear for wear. For some people, this will all ballooned 46.2 percent in 2013 to $4.5 billion, compris- brands like Ray-Ban, Persol, come even more naturally than ing over 10 percent of total digital ad spending in the U.S. oliver Peoples, oakley and Vogue- time frame for when that might be. the regular [Glass].” Twitter rolled out retargeting ad product late last with Eyewear — and which also makes According to Google, it will The deal with Luxottica is a tailored audience program, and Facebook launched eyewear under license for design- work with Luxottica on the design Google’s latest move in the area Premium Video Ads last week. After three months of test- er brands such as Giorgio Armani, of all glass-compatible frames. of wearable technology. Last ing its 15-second video ads, Facebook said it will roll out Coach, Prada and Ralph Lauren — “Luxottica will manufacture week, the firm unveiled a new the feature slowly. instagram introduced ads late last year will help expand the range of Glass these frames and lead distribution version of its Android operating as well with Michael Kors as a launch partner. silhouettes available for Google’s of Glass in the eyewear category, system called Android Wear and Facebook leads social media advertising in terms of Explorer Program. The program, and Glass will continue to sell the said it would partner with Fossil revenue. The platform accounted for the majority, or 72.4 which launched in February 2013, device online through our Explorer to launch a line of smartwatches percent, of advertising dollars accrued on social networks allowed about 10,000 consumers to Program,” the company said. using the system later this year. last year. — R.S.

w25a013a;10.indd 13 3/24/14 8:05 PM 03242014200716 14 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 Hunt Slonem all of it so vividly, the name of Ricard at some after-hours place the parrot and the servants, on Avenue D and being frisked and this wonderful woman for guns walking in. Maybe my Bird’s-eye View named Rafaella who used to ideas were fresher, but every day comb all of the girls’ hair. The was this adventure. I’m happier AMIDST HUNT Slonem’s rabbits on small rectangular grandfather was 95 and lived in now that I’m more focused.” murals, hundreds of paintings panels made of wood and this 300-year-old house with 40- One thing is clear: Slonem and sculptures in his cavernous Masonite. Signings are also foot ceilings, and little families is savvy about real estate. Years 30,000-square-foot work space, slated for April 9 at Lord & of turtles would walk out into the after his arrival in Manhattan, one thing is clear — the artist Taylor’s flagship and April 23 at likes to go big. Dylan’s Candy Bar. Beyond the art, as far as The Kittery, Maine-born artist the eye can see, 60-plus birds, routinely paints until 7 or 8 p.m., some of which are 60 to 75 or well into the night if he is not years old, were squawking going out. But despite having away from an unseen section had 350 shows since 1977, he of his studio during a recent barks, more than bristles, when visit. The 62-year-old artist is asked why he is so prolific. widely recognized for his neo- “Because I’m a working Expressionist paintings of birds. But, like much of what he does, even his hobbies are rooted FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE in his art. An ardent antique collector with a New Orleans WWD.com/eye. sensibility, Slonem has what he describes as the largest privately owned Gothic sofa collection, not to mention hundreds of top hats and framed iridescent blue morpho butterflies on display. But back to the art. With 36 exhibitions of his works planned for this year alone, a new book release and a Lee A wall of the artist’s bunny paintings. Jofa-made rug collection set

to make its debut this fall, One of the many seating ERICKSEN KYLE Slonem says he is nearing the areas in Slonem’s jasmine-filled courtyard. It was he scored 30,000 square feet with purchase of The Rexmere, massive work space. just straight out of ‘100 Years a terrace in the Starrett Lehigh

a former 400-room hotel in PHOTOS BY of Solitude’ [Gabriel García Building for $5 a square foot, Stamford, N.Y., that he plans to Márquez’s classic novel].” which he kept for a stretch. If convert into a work studio and artist. I mean, Picasso was from leaving things out.” After graduating from that weren’t enough elbow room decorative art museum. prolific, you know [Andy] Raised in what he called Tulane, he studied at the to paint, the artist later landed Tonight, Slonem will be Warhol left [behind…] I hate an Ozzie & Harriet-type world Skowhegan School of Painting an 85-room, 45,000-square-foot holding court in the Paul Smith that question. Why shouldn’t I where calling cards were in and Sculpture in Maine, and space on 10th Street. store in New York’s SoHo be? Is Damien Hirst?” he says. order, Slonem and his siblings then in 1973 followed the “don’t Like The Albania and The signing copies of his sixth “I paint my work and I enjoy grew up in many places because go to grad school, just go to New Lakeside, the two plantations tome, “Bunnies” (Glitterati painting. It is the glue and fiber their father was a Navy officer. York” career advice. Meeting that he owns in Louisiana, The Inc.), which has a foreword by of my existence. Nothing else As a high school exchange Roz Chast briefly at a Robert Rexmere is a National Historic John Berendt. Every morning satisfies me. I get my ideas by student in Nicaragua, he would Mapplethorpe opening led Landmark. “I’ve always said that Slonem starts his work day working daily. Yo u know, it has skip school and hit the jungle him to his first apartment — a with 100,000 square feet I can be with “daily warm-ups” (a term taken me 62 years to arrive at with his butterfly net. Slonem $250 monthly rental in SoHo. kept busy for the rest of my life,” he borrowed from the abstract what I do. I didn’t just start says that magical experience has Recalling that “edgier” time Slonem says. “I can fill up 20,000 to expressionist Hans Hofmann), scribbling overnight. And the never left him, “My whole work in the city, Slonem says, “I just 30,000 [square feet] in a few years.” spending 30 minutes painting simplicity of my work came was influenced by it. I remember remember being with René — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

farms on the island owned by In the new book, an airplane the wealthy and distributing Ramiro A. from Cubana de Aviación floats Cuba on My Mind the smaller pieces of land to Fernández in the clouds on a double-page poor people, he was turning spread, looking somehow VINTAGE IMAGES of the island a big influence on me,” says them into collective farms. surreal, while a group of of Cuba have a great deal of Fernández, who had a long She quickly realized that he revellers gathers at Sloppy Joe’s charm, and that’s on full display career at Time Inc. that was, in fact, the Communist he Bar in Havana in 1930, clowning in “Cuba Then: Rare and Classic included stints at Sports initially claimed not to be, and with oversize bottles of liquor, Images From the Ramiro A. Illustrated and as a founding she was able to move some of and performer Rosita Fornés, Fernández Collection” (The editor at Entertainment the family’s money out of the plump in a polka dotted dress, Monacelli Press), with a foreword Weekly. “She was an amateur country before it was too late. poses for a kitsch publicity still and poems by Richard photographer. There Soon her husband’s business in which she appears to have Blanco, a poet who read at were always photo was nationalized, and the tripped and fallen. President Barack Obama’s magazines around the Fernández family, which also Fernández has no interest second inauguration. eye house with pictures included Ramiro’s older sister, in selling pieces from his Fernández, who lives by Ansel Adams and Sara Sylvia, left for Florida. collection, believing that it has in New York’s Chelsea Edward Weston.” His Among her son’s favorite the most impact as the sum district, left Cuba as grandmother, Hortensia subjects for photos are children of its parts. He is, however, an eight-year-old in 1960 and, Lizaso Machado, contemplating leaving some when he grew up, became a had an apartment of it eventually to a new photo editor. In 1981, when he for many years that division of the Smithsonian was working as a receptionist overlooked the main that’s planned, which will be at the Museum of Modern square in Havana, devoted to Latino culture, and Art, a man came in one day and she influenced not in the mold…too other photos to the University with an album of albumen him in the desire thin or too big,” he of Miami’s Cuban Heritage prints by the Spanish-born to document Cuban says. Another favorite Collection and the Norton Cuban photographer José ways of life that were theme: anything Museum of Art in West Palm Gómez de la Carrera, which vanishing or were pharmaceutical. The Beach, Fla. he offered to sell to photo already gone. last isn’t surprising, He has been back to the curator John Szarkowski. The His mother, Tita, since his father, island several times in recent curator wasn’t interested, he adds, impressed Ramiro Sr., was a years. “I still have family

so Fernández decided to him in other ways, drug manufacturer there,” he says. “Whoever ARMAND STUDIOS/CONDÉ NAST MEDIA GROUP NY buy the album himself in too. She was an avid whose products stayed in Cuba actually installments. That was the athlete, he says, who included the classic believed in the system.” beginning of his collection, “played squash, rode Fifties tranquilizer Chela Rodríguez, whom which now spans from 1850 horses and waterskied Miltown — manna for he calls his favorite relative to 1970 and which he is still in the dark waters off the era’s desperate in Cuba, runs the Jose Martí adding to today, often by Cuba.” It was she who, The cover of the book, showing Josephine Baker and Italian housewives — and Institute — which is devoted to bidding on images of Cuba after idealistically singer Ernesto Bonino in Havana, 1952. whose laboratory was that revolutionary intellectual, a on eBay. This is the second volunteering to attached to their house. national hero — in Havana. “She book based on his collection; help Fidel Castro work on with animals; sports, particularly “There was always in my home is very involved in the artistic

the first was “I Was Cuba” the agrarian reform he had Grand Prix auto racing, which a faint odor of pharmaceuticals; leadership of the country,” he JOHN AQUINO; BOOK COVER PHOTO BY (Chronicle Books). promised when he first came to came to Cuba for the first time if you crush an aspirin, the dust says, adding, “I try not to talk “My mother also loved power, discovered that, rather when he was a boy, and grade that’s created — my home always about politics with her.” — LORNA KOSKI photography, and that was than breaking up the vast B showgirls. “I love people smelled like that,” he says. BY PORTRAIT WWD tuesday, March 25, 2014 15 WWD.COM

ballet is all about jewelry. To Bloomingdale’s follows the brand and the newly launched celebrate the New York City brand’s U.S. online sales ZhuChongYun designer label. Fashion scoops Ballet’s 50th Anniversary at “taking off like a rocket” Zhu Chongyun, chief executive Lincoln Center, Derek Lam since it launched a dedicated officer of Shenzhen Marisfrolg, has teamed with fine jeweler American Web site late last designs both brands and will RIRI CALLING: From Dior to Jean The award, underwritten by and former dancer Jamie Wolf year. Dobbie said that the take over the creative direction Paul Gaultier, Lanvin, Comme Swarovski, will take place at to create a collection inspired brand’s online sales to the U.S. of Krizia when the deal is des Garçons, Chanel and Miu Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully by choreographer and NYC have risen by 50 percent in the finalized next month. Miu, Rihanna was a constant Hall. — MARC KARIMZADEH Ballet’s cofounder, George current quarter, compared with The looks from Marisfrolg fixture at Paris Fashion Week. Balanchine. the same period last year. were clean and romantic, using Her presence clearly paid GUESS SCHOLARS: When not Each piece is designed to The label’s tailoring is powder pinks and blues to scouting for the next Guess Girl, honor a specific aspect of his popular with U.S. give a light, feminine the fashion firm is searching body of work — whether it be customers, she said, feel to oversize wool Rihanna For more for scholars. Through the Guess a dance move, a costume or a along with dresses, scoops, see overcoats, leather Foundation, which is headed set. Offerings include bracelets, and Dobbie added culottes and cotton by Guess chief executive officer earrings, necklaces and rings that the brand WWD.com. cigarette pants. Paul Marciano, Los Angeles’ done in rhodium-plated sterling would introduce ZhuChongYun, Fashion Institute of Design & silver with black and white footwear and coats which the company Merchandising is launching diamonds, with prices ranging — seen as its heritage considers to be a the Guess Scholars Program from $120 to $2,050. products in the U.K. — for fall. more “avant-garde” brand, took with two annual scholarships Twenty percent of all profits Prices for Hobbs’ collection a bolder approach, combining covering full tuition. The will be donated to the New York start at $149 for jersey pieces, traditional Asian apparel competition is open to students City Ballet once. The collection with dresses starting at $175 elements such as wraparound majoring in marketing, will be available in-store and pants at $225. tops, flowing trouser suits and international manufacturing at the Derek Lam boutique Alongside the tunics with cutting-edge Italian and product development, on Madison Avenue and at Bloomingdale’s concessions, fabrics like brushed Neoprene. business management, jamiewolf.com beginning on Hobbs has franchise stores in “I wanted to take a type of and fashion design and April 16. — LAUREN MCCARTHY the United Arab Emirates and material, which is normally merchandising. Sweden. Dobbie added that used in sportswear, to a simple, This isn’t the first time Los BLOOMINGDALE’S BOUND: The the brand has seen “significant modern effect, and turn it into Angeles-based Guess is heading British label Hobbs — a favorite interest” from Germany and something elegant, stylish and back to school. Two years ago, of the Duchess of Cambridge — has Australia, where Hobbs has luxurious,” Zhu said postshow. the foundation gave $2.5 million landed on U.S. shores. dedicated Web sites, but said Still, the designer warned to fund a visiting professorship This week, the label is the brand currently has no fashion observers that they that links the creative and opening five shops-in-shop in plans for international store shouldn’t consider the shows a business sides of fashion at Bloomingdale’s stores. The openings beyond the U.S. precursor for what she will do

Stéphane Feugère New York University’s Gallatin shops, which range in size from — NINA JONES at Krizia. School of Individualized Study. 400 to 1,000 square feet, will “Krizia will be different from “The Guess Scholars Program be located at Bloomingdale’s KRIZIA CLUES?: Shenzhen the two collections you saw photo by is just another way we can at 59th Street in New York; Marisfrolg, the Chinese fashion tonight. Krizia will stay true to toward something. On June 2, stand behind and support the Chestnut Hill in Boston; King of company that is buying Krizia, its Italian heritage,” said Zhu, she will receive the Fashion next generation of fashion,” Prussia, Pa.; Tysons Corner in showcased two of its brands who added that Krizia will Icon Award at the 2014 CFDA Marciano said. McLean, Va., and The Shops at as part of Beijing Fashion continue to be based in Italy. Fashion Awards. — KHANH T.L. TRAN Riverside in Hackensack, N.J. Week on Saturday evening. “I will not be incorporating She is in good company: Past Clare Dobbie, marketing The runway show featured Oriental elements into my recipients include Kate Moss, ON POINTE: Forget tutus and and e-commerce director at the fall collections of the designs for Krizia.” Lady Gaga, Iman and Nicole Kidman. toe shoes — this season, the Hobbs, said the launch in more commercial Marisfrolg — HANNAH GARDNER

print magazine, said McGeveran, who noted that companies buying ads in the magazine are offered the incentive to MeMo pad “piggy back off of Politico.” Advertisers in Capital’s first SCALING CAPITAL NEW YORK’S PAYWALL: print issue included the Real Estate It’s been about six weeks since Capital Board of New York, the New York New York started charging for access to Library Association, the Long Island about 80 percent of its content, which Association, New York City Charter focuses on New York-centric news on School Center and the Civil Service City Hall, state politics and media. Called Employees Association, which ran an small space CapitalPro, the paywall was erected advertorial on sexual predators. While in February after readers were given Capital declined to provide figures free access to all of Capital’s stories and pertaining to revenue, Web traffic and morning briefings for nearly two months. number of subscribers, chief revenue Since then, buzz — at least in the media officer Roy Schwartz noted that the site world — has been critical of the site, is 20 to 50 percent ahead of internal which boasts it provides an insider’s take expectations. For the most recent on the industry. For one thing, critics quarter, which included sales from the pointed to the overabundance of media paywall, ad and subscription revenue news already out there, as well as the was up “10 times” over the fourth economic health of the industries Capital quarter of last year, said Schwartz. covers. Unlike its parent company, Despite those statistics, the Politico, whose Web site is a must-read uncertainty surrounding gated media for monied Washington lobbyists, trade content is still a concern. organizations and politicians, Capital “We’re trying to figure out what’s covers local government and spendthrift working and what’s not working in media companies. Also, Capital, which media,” said Politico cofounder and was purchased in September, has yet to executive editor Jim VandeHei. “I think Big burnish its brand, as Politico did, before we can carve out a space in New York. I it installed a paywall. don’t care how many other publications Capital cofounder Tom McGeveran are out there.” brushed off the notion that the media What will ultimately drive news space is saturated, offering: “ Yo u subscriptions is how Capital covers could say there are a lot of burger joints media, VandeHei said, adding: “I Business in town, but what’s the threshold of burger think a lot of media coverage is wrong. joints that says there are too many?” A lot of reporters are too gullible. McGeveran admitted that Capital Media reporters do not have a tough, still needs to “find its place” in the scrutinizing eye.” WWD Marketplace is the premier destination media landscape, but noted that his Asked to elaborate on Capital’s bosses at Politico have given him time business progress in view of its to work out the kinks. reporting thus far, VandeHei declined for the industry’s classified and career listings. According to the site, an average to comment and offered: “I just want a subscription to CapitalPro costs $3,500, clear indication that within three to five but media sources told WWD they were years that we will be profitable. I don’t offered a variety of rates. When one large know if Capital will be a $10 million media company rejected Capital’s offer company or a $40 million company. The 800.423.3314 of $5,000, the deal was then reduced to challenge for us at Capital is to make $2,500. That still was too high. Another sure we pace our growth. Can we make media company was offered a media media work? Can we make policy work? rate of $1,000 per user, which that firm Once we realize that, we can add other wwd.com/marketplace agreed to. As for other revenue, Capital things [coverage areas].” is “close to break-even” on its monthly — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

w25a015a;7.indd 15 3/24/14 7:57 PM 03242014195828 AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service Marks/Trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. © 2014 Cotton Incorporated. Source: The Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™ (www.CottonLifestyleMonitor.com), 2013. come to rely onitasanatural, comfortable, fashionable necessity. research Infact, tells strengths go farbeyond textiles. Cotton is as thefabricofourlives. Consumers have would ifcotton were bedissatisfed taken many ofthefoodsweconsume,andsoon out oftheirfavorite clothing. Butcotton’s food as well. Cottonseedfood aswell. oilisalready in us thatmore thanhalfofallconsumers population. Inadditionto providing will helpfeedtheworld’s growing Cotton hasaproven track record cotton’s protein-packed seeds Learn moreLearn atcottoninc.com. Discover whatcotton cando. clothing andfood,cotton can It’s atruemiracle ofnature. biodiesel fuel. Cottonbiodiesel fuel. isso much more thanafber. also beusedto create SM