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Layered Take STAYING ON A CURVE STUART WEITZMAN UNVEILS ITS ZAHA HADID-DESIGNED FOCUSED CONCEPT STORE IN HONG KONG THAT EMPHASIZES HUNTING GROUND J. JILL AIMS TO GROW BY CURVILINEAR SHAPES. PAGE 4 CATCHING UP WITH ARTIST HUNT SLONEM, FOCUSING ON ITS CORE WHO HAS A NEW BOOK, EXHIBITS AND MISSES’ CUSTOMER. A MUSEUM IN THE WORKS. PAGE 14 PAGE 5 CHANGE AT CALVIN KLEIN Shiffman Named CEO As Murry Steps Aside By LISA LOCKWOOD NEW YORK — Calvin Klein Inc., a division of PVH Corp., is about to usher in a new era. Steve Shiffman, currently president and chief com- mercial offi cer of CKI, will become chief executive of- fi cer on July 1, succeeding Tom Murry, who has been TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY at the fashion fi rm for 17 years. Murry will become WWD executive chairman, serving in an advisory role until he retires on Jan. 31. Murry, 63, originally planned to change his role at CKI in mid-2016, but decided to accelerate the pro- cess by two years. He said he felt like the company would be in capable hands with Shiffman, with whom he has worked closely for the past seven years. “The past 17 years of Calvin Klein have been an incredible experience for me, having shepherded the company through multiple transformations over the last decade. I felt this is the right time to accelerate our transition plans and made my decision knowing that Calvin Klein is in an excellent position and that Layered we have the right team in place to build on our suc- cess around the world,” said Murry. He added that selecting Shiffman as his successor “provides for a smooth, seamless transition.” Starting in July, Murry will serve as an adviser to Shiffman. “I’ll provide Steve with whatever guidance he wishes. He takes over the reins,” said Murry who, as executive chairman, will have his hours, salary Ta ke and bonus opportunities cut in half. Murry’s base sal- ary is currently $1 million per year. Tokyo Fashion Week ended over the weekend, Murry said he decided on the move after having and a highlight was Yasutoshi Ezumi’s show. hip replacement surgery Jan. 8. He couldn’t play The designer delivered a chic golf and he was recuperating with his wife at their Florida home. “I had time to refl ect on our lives and collection rooted in men’s what we wanted to do with the rest of our lives,” said wear, made interesting Murry. He said Shiffman, in his role as president and with tweaks on classics FALL 2014 chief commercial offi cer, “had really risen to the oc- and lovely pilings of knits casion and really got his arms around the job.” as shown here. For more, TOKYO SEE PAGE 13 see pages 10 to 12. COLLECTIONS Obama Faces Pressure To Redefi ne Trade Policy By KRISTI ELLIS WASHINGTON — The global trade playbook needs to be rewritten for it to be dynamic again. The U.S. is entering a new era for global trade that is not always embraced — even by pro-trade advo- cates — and will force President Obama and future leaders to engage more directly and build a stronger bipartisan consensus to move the agenda forward, ac- cording to experts in the fi eld. Obama’s trade agenda has stalled in the fi rst half of the year against the backdrop of looming midterm elections in November, thorny issues in trade nego- tiations and some opposition from members in his own Democratic party. Then there is the continued onslaught of global crises, the most recent of which — tensions with Russia over Crimea and Ukraine — could result in trade sanctions and Russia could choose to retaliate with its own trade sanctions against U.S. and European Union exports. Whatever happens with Russia, experts do expect action over trade deals to ramp up after the elections. “I don’t remember a time in my career in and out of government ever since I worked for [then-President] Ronald Reagan back in the early Eighties where trade has been seen as an issue as indifferent as it seems to be today,” said Jon Huntsman Jr., chairman of the Atlantic Council think tank in an address before the American Apparel & Footwear Association, “where people in my party — the Republican Party — which PHOTO BY YUKIE MIYAZAKI used to see trade as a bulwark for economic growth SEE PAGE 6 2 WWD TUESDAY, MARCH 25, 2014 WWD.COM Carra Named Agnona CEO THE BRIEFING BOX and said the company is “implementing the collec- IN TODAY’S WWD By LUISA ZARGANI tion’s structure by introducing categories that were not familiar to the heritage of the brand until the MILAN — Agnona has tapped Alessandra Carra as arrival of Stefano Pilati.” chief executive officer. The company is expanding Agnona’s prod- An image of Spanish- She will join the Italian brand in May and suc- uct offer by establishing an accessories line of Mexican actress Emilia ceeds Bruno Laguardia, who will be appointed a shoes and handbags. In February, it inked a 10- Guiú in Havana in 1952, member of the board. year licensing agreement with Italian eyewear from “Cuba Then: Rare As reported earlier this month, Carra is leav- powerhouse Marcolin Group for the worldwide and Classic Images From ing her role as ceo of Emilio Pucci. LVMH Moët manufacture and distribution of sunglasses the Ramiro A. Fernández Hennessy Louis Vuitton, parent of the Florence-based and eyeglasses for the Ermenegildo Zegna and Collection.” For more, see firm, appointed Carra in March Agnona brands, marking the page 14 and WWD.com. 2011 to succeed Didier Drouet. debut of the latter in the lux- Gildo Zegna, ceo of the Dree ury eyewear arena. Agnona’s Ermenegildo Zegna Group, Hemingway first 20 glasses models will be which took control of Agnona in an ad for introduced this fall. in 1999, praised Carra’s “rooted Agnona. In terms of distribution, MUNIZ/BOHEMIA expertise in the business de- Zegna said that the plan is to velopment of luxury women’s “surely” work on the develop- VICENTE wear.” He told WWD that he was ment of Agnona’s retail net- BY “convinced she has the neces- work, but this “absolutely does sary skills and knowledge to not imply we will neglect part- PHOTO lead this project.” nerships with the department Prior to Pucci, Carra was MATADIN stores of different countries.” Steve Shiffman, president and chief commercial officer of ceo of Polo Ralph Lauren Italy He added that the focus now is Calvin Klein Inc., will succeed Tom Murry as the company’s chief and countries under license, VINOODH to “create business relations executive officer. PAGE 1 a post she’d held since 2004. AND to be developed soundly.” This Previously, she was vice presi- was echoed by Carra, who also dent of marketing, sales and dis- highlighted the “attention” The global trade playbook needs to be rewritten for it to tribution worldwide at Valentino the group has paid to its retail be dynamic again, with President Obama taking a hands-on PAGE 1 and held positions at Levi LAMSWEERDE development, without forget- approach. Strauss Group and Trussardi. VAN ting the wholesale channel, is Zegna has been investing in “surely a cause for reflection” Zaha Hadid was in Hong Kong Friday to fete the opening of her INEZ PAGE 4 the development of Agnona, tra- BY going forward in her role at Stuart Weitzman concept boutique. ditionally known for its fine cash- the house. mere looks. He tapped Stefano PHOTO The Zegna Group, noted Tax-free spending by Russians visiting the U.K. decreased 17 Pilati, who started in January Carra, “represents an excel- percent year-on-year for the month of February. PAGE 4 2013 as creative director of the women’s brand and lence of Made in Italy; a company that has been head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna, with respon- able to transform its brand in a global brand with- There’s nothing fancy, edgy or trendy about J. Jill, and that’s sibility for that brand’s fashion show as well as for out renouncing its industrial DNA combined with a just fine for the enduring misses brand. PAGE 5 the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection. skillful artisanal craftsmanship.” “I am enthusiastic to be able to be part of this Of Laguardia, Zegna said he was a “storied and Myron “Mike” Ullman 3rd could see his compensation project,” Carra said. “To work on a strategic devel- precious collaborator. In fact, he is not leaving our quadruple in his first full year back at J.C. Penney Co. Inc. PAGE 5 opment plan to support Stefano Pilati’s framework group: he will remain on the Agnona board and will built over the past year will be my priority.” be a valued adviser.” While China and Vietnam dominate the textile and apparel The executive said “the motor” behind her Laguardia took on his role at the Italian brand PAGE 8 choice was the Zegna Group’s “strategy and entre- in January 2012, and was previously ceo of Giorgio landscape, South Korea and Peru are making their mark. preneurial” asset, and, “undoubtedly,” a creative Armani Corp.’s New York offices from 2007 to 2010. director such as Pilati. Zegna said he played “a key role” in the initial Retailers praised the Tokyo collections, but said the timing of Zegna emphasized Agnona’s “unique potential” phase of the brand. the shows and prices might limit their buying. PAGE 12 Google will partner with Luxottica to help expand the range of Glass silhouettes.
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