THE MAGAZINE OF THE HONG KONG DESIGN INSTITUTE ISSUE TEN 2014
CRAFTING OUTSIDE THE FRAME DESIGN THE FINE ART OF MINDS PHOTOGRAPHY INSPIRING WORK BY SIGN OF SWISS STUDENTS THE TIMES JAPANESE POSTER ART ISSUE TEN 2014 | SIGN EXPLORED2 ISSUE TEN
used by writers and artists when their work gives them pleasure or wins accolades. The great Italian poet Dante described pride as a “spark” that’s capable of “setting fire to the hearts of men” and there’s no doubt that “taking pride in one’s work” is a key aspect of good and passionate craftsmanship. If we take a step back from the word’s modern usage it is possible to see why “pride” is so appropriate for the design process and as the theme for this tenth edition of SIGNED magazine. The origins of the word can be found in 11th century Old French when its root was rendered as “prud”, and meant “brave, valiant” with the phrase “prud’homme” meaning “brave man”. The noble knights of England adopted the word and, over time, the serfs and poor farmers whom they ruled and oppressed began to detest the term. The English downtrodden divorced pride from its roots in bravery and gave it the negative connotation of arrogance. In its original form, the word “pride” is perfectly suited to the design process, especially as it is allied with the Latin “prodesse” (be useful). In this linguistic setting, “pride” perfectly describes how a creative craftsman or A designer without pride is like a yacht artist must have the courage to break boundaries in order to make without sails, but one infused with pride is a something unique, beautiful and functional. Read in this way, all capricious vessel that could veer onto rocks of the designers featured in this edition of SIGNED are men and at any minute. Such is the nature of pride, an women of pride, who are justly proud of what they have achieved, ambiguous concept with a chequered history. having had the courage to step outside convention. The young A noun form of the adjective “proud”, the designers from Switzerland featured in “Mothers of Invention” word “pride” is like a troubled celebrity. It has have all made brave decisions in creating work that stands out, great qualities, but still manages to mess up. as have the photographers featured in “Outside the Frame” and In religion, pride is frequently condemned as a “Eternal Evolution”. In “Brave New Media” and “Sign of the source of arrogance and sin. The sophisticated Times” creatives working with very different tools show how the Confucian philosopher Xunzi, who lived 2300 valiant use of innovation can produce forms of communication years ago said that “pride brings disaster to that are strikingly memorable. As a creative community we should man” and he married the word to “excess” as take pride in what we do, and be brave in using skills that the if the two were opposite sides of the same world needs in order to be a more inspiring and sustainable place. coin. And yet the word “pride” is common And for those designers who fear that success will trap them upon in the design community and designers use the slippery slopes of ego and arrogance, there is a simple rule – it frequently to describe their emotions and take pride, but do not let pride take you. sense of self-worth, especially after reaching a milestone in their careers. It’s a word that’s also DANIEL JEFFREYS PAULO COELHO Editor-In-Chief
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06 EVENT 10 FEATURE HAPPY RETURNS OUTSIDE THE FRAME Sweden and The fine art of BODW reprise their photography partnership
16 FEATURE 20 FEATURE 24 FEATURE BRAVE NEW MEDIA MOTHERS OF ETERNAL EVOLUTION Transforming Photography’s journey communication INVENTION The “Every Product Tells in Hong Kong and the through technology a Story” exhibition is a Mainland window on creativity
30 EDITORIAL 34 EVENT 38 EVENT TAKING CHARGE SIGN OF THE MAGIC CARPETS Chan Koonchung on Spreading upcycling’s vocational training TIMES message and the future of Japanese poster art work explored
44 EVENT 48FEATURE THE CRAFTING OF CARING FOR DESIGN MINDS CREATIVITY Inspiring work by Luxury retailer Joyce students at ECAL/ collaborates with HKDI University of Art and alumni Design Lausanne
THE MAGAZINE OF THE HONG KONG DESIGN INSTITUTE The Hong Kong Design Institute is a member institution of the Vocational Training EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DANIEL JEFFREYS MANAGING EDITOR SUMMER CAO CREATIVE DIRECTION SYMBOLICA Council. For more information about HKDI, please check our website on ISSUE TEN 2014 EDITORIAL BOARD LESLIE LU • CECILE KUNG • TERENCE WONG • TSE MING CHONG • COVER IMAGE www.hkdi.edu.hk, or email us at [email protected] GRAFT, A SET OF CUTLERY LIZ MCLAFFERTY • DANIEL CHAN • WONG PAK KAY • NIKI SHEK • ANNIE LAM DESIGNED BY ECAL/ Signed is produced on behalf of the Hong Kong Design Institute by deluxewords, EDITORS LIBBY ZENG • AMANDA SHUAI CONTRIBUTOR RIK GLAUERT a subsidiary of Deluxe Holdings Limited, Winning Centre, 46-48 Wyndham Street, CRAFTING OUTSIDE UNIVERSITY OF ART AND THE FRAME DESIGN THE FINE ART OF PUBLISHER DELUXEWORDS MINDS PHOTOGRAPHY INSPIRING WORK BY SIGN OF Hong Kong. Advertising sales enquiries to +852 2868 0671. Printed in Hong Kong SWISS STUDENTS DESIGN LAUSANNE STUDENT THE TIMES JAPANESE POSTER ART ISSUE TEN 2014 | SIGN EXPLORED2 QIYUN DENG by Hang Sing Printing. Origination by deluxewords.
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RETURNS
ABOVE URBANEARS-ZINKEN HEADPHONES
ABOVE RENDERING Swedish design is discernable by programme in Asia,” says Elaine OF A VERTICAL its utilitarian simplicity – it boasts Chow, director of Programme of URBAN FARM BY a serenely stylish functionality. BoDW 2014. PLANTAGON At this year’s Business of Design “Culture, in a broader sense, is The history of Swedish design is replete hen confronted with one of life’s daily Week (BoDW) the brains behind the DNA of their everyday life,” obstacles a sensible Swedish solution these big Swedish brands will says Chow who believes that with world-beating innovations, which is never far away: IKEA products share their knowledge with the Swedish designers are born solution makes this year’s Business of Design can transform a bare apartment into design community of Hong providers and that innovation is a stylish home without breaking the Kong, immersing the city in new their tool to tackle challenges and Week especially attractive. With Sweden bank, quality fast fashion is at your insights and perspectives from one explore new possibilities. as its partner country, the event is fingertips with the High Street brand of the most innovative countries To celebrate the tenth anniversary H&M; Electrolux produce anything in the world. of the bilateral design partnership, guaranteed to bring some of the you could ever want for your kitchen “Since its inception in 2002, BoDW has asked Sweden to return world’s mostW fascinating designers to and Candy Crush Saga is always at BoDW is the platform for for the weeklong annual design hand for whiling away idle minutes knowledge exchanges and it is set conference. “We are honoured to have
amanda shuai FROM BoDW IMAGES Hong Kong. reports. with blissful gaming. to be the leading annual design Sweden return as our partner country
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WE ARE HONOURED TO HAVE SWEDEN RETURN AS OUR PARTNER COUNTRY AGAIN FOR BODW 2014 AFTER THEIR FIRST APPEARANCE 10 the availability of mass-production, mentality engrained in Swedish YEARS AGO designers created beautiful products culture, designers seamlessly thread ELAINE CHOW that people needed. Pressed wood sustainability throughout their and steel, glass and plastics are the creations – organic cotton in H&M’s language in which Swedish Design apparel and IKEA’s commitment to is still written. source 50% percent of its wood from practitioners,” says Chow. “With Featuring the striking yellow and sustainable sources by 2017 are just these prominent Swedish business blue of the nation’s flag, the bold two examples. leaders, designers and innovators lettering of IKEA is a prominent By bringing the essence and available to exchange insights we signpost to Swedish design in Hong the best of Swedish design to the TOP SCANIA R-SERIES TRUCK again for BoDW 2014 after their first can resolve the challenges ahead Kong. IKEA brings functional region’s design community, the ABOVE CLOCK appearance 10 years ago,” says Chow. and create business opportunities by vibrancy to the compact homes of 2014 edition of BoDW serves to CABINET FROM IKEA From December 1 to 6 design leveraging the latest creative ideas Hong Kong residents. With fluid emphasise how the week long design PS-COLLECTION OPPOSITE RESTAURANT minds will gather together under and innovations.” lines and intriguing shapes the festival has become a valuable source AND BAR CUCKOO’S the leitmotif “Living Design: Live Swedish design owes a lot to the simple designs that optimise space of inspiration for Asian designers, NEST DESIGNED BY It, Work It, Wear It, Do It”. BoDW Scandinavian style (often referred are a supreme match for the city’s adding value to their products as well STYLT TRAMPOLI has invited more than 20 Swedish to as democratic design) that limitations and the local aesthetic. as increasing their competitiveness in speakers from worldwide brands, emerged during the vacuum left Sustainability has emerged as a the world. designers, innovators, creators, after the Second World War. As core element in Swedish design. “We believe the Hong Kong architects and leading entrepreneurs Europe struggled to rebuild itself Sweden ranks amongst the world’s design community can absorb the of the day, assembling a dream team after the ravages of conflict an top consumers of renewable energy, Swedish culture of innovation and of design masterminds. appealing, accessible and affordable and the country’s government has apply it to their work and hence “I hope that BoDW can serve as a design style flourished. Taking shown considerable investment influence our peers in the Asia platform for our Hong Kong design advantage of low cost materials and FROM BoDW IMAGES in eco technologies. With a green region,” says Chow.
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OPPOSITE TSE MING CHONG (LEFT) AND ALMOND CHU(RIGHT) LEFT FROM FLOWER SERIES BY ALMOND CHU
overing in limbo at its inception in the early to revolt against the dreamy 19th century, photography began life as the black sheep Victorian aesthetic, and establish of the art family and a fickle companion of journalism. photography as an art form of its Yet it is such a powerful medium of expression that it own. These pioneers cherished has survived distrust and occasional abuse, continuing photography’s integrity and refused to thrive and evolve into the era’s most pervasive to subject photographic images to medium of expression via Smart Phones, selfies and painterly affectations. social media platforms. At the forefront of this school of Like many inventions bestowed upon creative minds by thought was Alfred Stieglitz, founder the development of technology, photography required a of the Photo-Secession Movement. significant period of time to establish itself as a distinctive Stieglitz was devoted to separating discipline. This warranted some genuine artistic vision photography from painting. Others and the courage to embrace the unfamiliar, hone it into a with the same intention include conveyance for self-expression and found the grounding towering figures of photography principles of a new practice. such as Edward Steichen, who took Almond Chu and Tse Ming Chong have pushed the Crucial to photography’s cultivation has been a the first series of modern fashion collection of visionaries who hold clashing views about photographs; as well as Alvin boundaries of photography to create memorable images the medium’s identity. The “father of art photography”, Langdon Coburn, who led the with the power of fine art. Despite having widely different Oscar Gustave Rejlander collaborated with painter vanguard of abstract photography. photographers such as Henry Peach Robinson and Julia Contention between the two views regarding the way photographers change our Margaret Cameron, who all chose to instill photography schools’ of thoughts (manipulated perceptions of reality, both agree that their medium has with the aesthetics of painting. Their photography was vs. unadorned) has not depleted, but manipulated with a delicate touch of hand and evoked taken together they have formed enormous potential for future innovation. summer cao reports. Renaissance master paintings. a medium laden with vibrant Yet the defining characteristics of photography as a innovations, experimentations and
ALL MAGES BY ALMOND CHU BY ALL MAGES medium have long inspired talents in various disciplines creativity. To fully grasp the merits
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of photography as an inventive method of expression and communication, it’s necessary to understand how WHY NOT, it empowers and inspires the practitioners of these two disparate creative processes. IF COMPUTERS Renowned Hong Kong photographer Almond Chu is among contemporary masters of the medium, and he COULD FACILITATE takes a clear stance. Chu believes that his creative process resembles that of painting. “I take photographs the way MY CREATIVE I paint,” Chu says. “I start from a clean slate, and add in elements – certain settings or people – that I want to PROCESS. include in my frame. When I hold a camera, my thoughts are the most focused and intense.” Photographer and photography scholar Tse Ming Chong believes that Chu’s portfolio demonstrates how a talented photographer can paint the world with light. In his opinion, a photographer’s background and interest critically affect the creative process as well as which of the two schools of practice the photographer prefers. It was not surprising therefore to find that Chu was a painter before studying photography at Tokyo College of Photography at the age of 20. Best known for his portrait photographs, Chu has received multiple international awards. His work has been collected by prominent museums including Hong Kong Museum of Art and Hong Kong Heritage Museum as well as leading business enterprises. “After seeing my photographs,” Chu reveals, “a lot of people wonder whether I was a painter before. Something take years of training and practice. freedom of expression the most has exposed me, but I can’t tell what it is.” “It is usually hard for artists to form an opinion of the sacred altar. Tse observed that Chu’s A glimpse of Chu’s work suffices to demonstrate his world in an early stage of their lives, let alone to express portraits, be their subject a human fine art approach. Tse commented that this approach it in a powerful way,” says Tse. “As time flies and life’s being or a horse, invariably have requires a pair of well-trained eyes that would normally experience accumulates, they would be able to have a sculpture-like textures and put heavy clearer idea of what they want to express, as well as develop emphasis on athletic yet graceful means and skills in terms of how to express them.” body forms. Having devoted himself to photography for 30 years “I take photographs of horses in and possessing an artistic inclination since childhood, the same way that I photograph Chu is confident in showing aspects of the world that humans,” Chu says. “I think the have registered in his mind, and is assertive in his way of necks of horses of Spanish origin are transforming them into photographs. very beautiful. They move elegantly In the collection Horse 2008, Chu depicts the animal when they eat and when they in medallion style portraits, and presents muscular run. When I was working on the curves and skin texture in detailed close-up photographs. Nude series, I was also enchanted Showing the horse’s beauty in this fashion triggers by graceful body movements, but imaginings of its agile body moving across a wild space. this time of an avant-garde stage One of the portraits now greets guests at the presidential performer in Japan.” suite of the Mandarin Oriental Taipei. Besides seeing with a painter’s The collection Nude features human forms that eye, Chu reveals that when making radiate the raw charm of ancient Greek sculptures of portraiture, the genre that he is gods and goddesses; Fabricated Mortals 2007 is a series best known for, he keeps a certain of erotic fantasies of a woman’s body, hazy yet vividly impression of the subject in his mind, salacious; The Bride With White Hairs 2007 is populated and carefully considers what he wants
ABOVE FROM HORSE with a veil of mystery that evokes Cosplay portraits. to present to viewers, although “the 2008 SERIES Chu has made “art for art’s sake” into his creed, with process is more complicated than LEFT FROM NUDE SERIES OPPOSITE FROM PARADE SERIES ALMOND CHU BY ALL MAGES
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LEFT AI WEIWEI OPPOSITE FROM SELF-PORTRAIT 2012 SERIES
I USE A CAMERA TO CREATE, SO I AM A PHOTOGRAPHER. BUT THE WAY I CREATE, THAT’S WHAT MAKES ME AN ARTIST.
the two practices are more like yin of his camera. However, photography by its very nature is taking photos of animals because tactical communication computer technologies, an area that still and yang rather than two ends of temporal and Chu also has to react instinctively. has to be involved”. extracts a snigger or look of contempt a spectrum – a photographer must When he took the famous portrait of Ai Weiwei, he “The chemistry between photographer and subject from purists of the industry. deploy both for visual success. didn’t have the luxury to do a short interview beforehand, is very subtle,” Tse adds. “Sometimes, the entire shoot “Why not,” he says, “if computers “There is no clear line between the which is his norm when taking somebody’s portraits. depends upon this intangible yet critical element.” can facilitate my creative process.” two,” says Tse. “Some photographers “Ai wasn’t in a good mood,” Chu recalls. “I wasn’t able Besides nurturing predilections to bring out his Evoking the work of Chinese respond to the environment and to connect to him. He didn’t want to do what I asked of subjective opinions in photographs, Chu is ready to contemporary artist Yue Minjun, record what they see. But in the end, him and there wasn’t enough time. So I changed strategy embrace anything in his toolbox as long as it proves Chu’s Parade series consist of they have to decide what they will – to record how he was at that exact moment. I only took helpful in bringing his creative concepts to fruition. computer-edited photographs convey by selecting photos to be seven to eight shots, then he walked away.” In the collection Lifestill 1995-1999 and exhibition featuring parades, each of which is shown to viewers.” When asked to consider his art, Chu says, “The way one “Future and the Past”, for which Chu created Self-portrait made up by miniatures of the same In his artistic process, Tse strikes a creates and employs media defines what you are. I use a 2012 that features portraits of himself in the future and the person taken from different angles. balance between the two, the weight camera to create, so I am a photographer. But the way I past, he demonstrates skills of art installation, sculpture and The two schools of photography, of each depending on his state of create, that’s what makes me an artist.” prosthetic makeup in addition to photography. at first glance, have conjured two mind. He begins with sketching, In the past 200 years, photography has evolved into a In Fa Fa 2007, Chu juxtaposes two series of photographs opposing poles in the spectrum of researching and collecting resources platform that allows people to employ different techniques – one of real flowers and the other of old-fashioned TVs photographic practice. On the one before allowing space to take his and creative processes and philosophies. Photography only displaying blurry static. In contrasting beautiful hand, photography is employed as a photographs instinctively. allows practitioners to converse in the same language yet flowers (“Fa” in Cantonese) with noisy and messy snow tool for calculated artistic expression. Chu agrees with Tse’s opinion to experiment and create as individuals. Photography has screens that are crammed with colours (also “Fa” in On the other, it is a record, able to to a certain extent despite his weathered the storm of criticism and doubt; its somewhat Cantonese), the collection explores Chu’s exasperation at capture a spontaneous reaction that inclination to see the photo as a confused identity has been turned to its advantage and the poor quality of everyday TV programming. a photographer has in response to canvas and arrange elements in front allows true expression. Besides relying on a range of artistic techniques in creating the environment.
his photographic work, Chu does not flinch from utilising However, Tse believes that in reality ALMOND CHU BY ALL MAGES
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AUGMENTED REALITY TECHNOLOGY IS DESIGNED TO ENHANCE ONE’S PERCEPTION OF THE WORLD IN REAL TIME. BRAVE ANNE BALSAMO NEW MEDIA to understand,” says Anne Balsamo, Dean of the School of Media Studies at The New School, “augmented reality and public interactives.” Balsamo is a pioneer in media studies and a media- The other significant category of media technologies creator whose work links media with studies of culture identified by Balsamo is the one involved in making public and humanity. She is the author of Designing Culture: interactives, which she describes on her blog as “…types The Technological Imagination at Work, a transmedia book of experiences ranging from large-scale projections in that is accompanied with DVD and web linkages to public spaces (urban screens) that visually address large interactive media projects. groups of people to human-scale digital installations As technologies Augmented reality (AR) technology is designed to intended to be used by individuals in public spaces. continue to evolve at enhance one’s perception of the world in real time by “For example, Environmental Interactives describes one augmented elements that are generated by a computer’s category of public interactive experience where people bewildering speed, the New media” is a term that seems to escape sensory perception of the same physical world. It is a engage with computational media embedded in built varieties of content definition, so rapidly does it evolve, with each week technology that can easily be found in computer games; structures. The form of these interactives might include bringing what seem to be revolutions in both hard other industries have also been trying to tap into it. wall embedded displays, spaces with dynamic lighting creation platforms and soft ware. For example, carmaker Jaguar announced its Virtual and sound features that respond to the presence of bodies, under the umbrella The high-tech gadgets that have been recently Windscreen concept in July, which will provide drivers buildings used as screens, rooms populated with animated launched range from mobile phones that mimic with a virtual display on the car’s windshield, making the surfaces (tables, floors), and/or buildings inhabited by term “new media” are a limited range of human emotions, clothing that driving experience similar to playing a video game. Jaguar robotic avatars.” ever changing. summer changes colour depending on a person’s mood, is not the first among carmakers to deploy AR. Toyota Public interactive technologies have been used by smart mirrors that offer cosmetic advice, a vest that has been toying with the technology since 2011 in order museums to circulate a large amount of data to a broader cao examines what allows players to feel the soundtrack of a game and to improve the view through its vehicle windows. audience. Notably, innovative public interactives such as the explosive pace of headsets that immerse the wearer in an artificially Balsamo predicts that AR technologies will become immersive experiences, moving paintings and architectural created world. prevalent, reaching every level of human activity from projections were installed at various sites at the Shanghai technological innovation These eclectic innovations have taken the media advertising to enhanced medical imaging. World Expo held in 2010. in the media means for to an elevated realm where new technologies are “AR commercials will be available to viewers as they As a scholar who is in the vanguard of studying public integrated into innovations from other disciplines, walk through urban landscapes, accessed through smart interactives, Balsamo led a team that reviewed how public the creative community. and are able to enhance human experience in a devices such as phones, glasses and bracelets that are interactive technologies widely used during the Shanghai tailor-made fashion. already ubiquitous,” says Balsamo. “AR will present Expo could prepare visitors to adapt to a technological “There are two categories of emergent media visualisations of a person’s biological status and medical future and engage them in content that was conveyed technologies that will become increasingly important condition so that they can monitor the functioning of through high-tech media. their own bodies through the use of smart devices.” Balsamo also created a public interactive in 2011
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PUBLIC INTERACTIVES WILL BECOME MORE PREVALENT AS BUILDINGS BECOME COMPUTATIONALLY ENABLED. ANNE BALSAMO
the hype about automated data collection,” too are good storywriters, cultural analysts, Balsamo emphasises, “that data does not and systems integrators.” equal information, which is not the same as In constructing a world of new media, knowledge, which does not equal wisdom the old tenet of being a world citizen and or insight.” undergoing a whole person education will still As demonstrated by the high-tech gadgets, hold sway, requiring practitioners to discover utilities of media technologies don’t simply their calling and true vocation before putting that was a tangible interface for AIDS-related fully mediated adventure.” add up, and a large part of them must be that vocation to work in the world. information. The interface consists of a tabletop There is no doubt that the advancement of manifested via the expertise and creations of HKDI is now developing exchange through which users can explore information AR and public interactive technologies will have other disciplines. opportunities at The New School for its by twisting and tilting the surface. These data an impact on every aspect of daily life. “These To take the creation of new public undergraduate students, in the hope that screens are like panels of a quilt that have been changes have profound implications for notions interactives as an example, Balsamo points they will not only gain technical knowledge stitched together. of privacy,” Balsamo believes, “of surveillance, of out that they require expertise not only in from one of the most active centres of media “Public interactives will become individuality, of play, of work, of leisure, of civic interaction and experience design, constructed innovation, but also set themselves on a fast more prevalent as buildings become engagement, and of commerce.” environment design, interior and lighting track to becoming a global citizen. computationally enabled with sensor nets Among the changed notions, there will be design, but also in understanding the behaviour The New School also holds high and large-surface display technologies,” pitfalls. Among them is the misconception of people in public settings, the creation of expectations for collaborating with HKDI. Balsamo says. “We will be able to access that the Internet is a perfect memory cultural contexts for storytelling, as well as “We are interested in fostering inspiring digital information networks everywhere, not machine. Even if life-logging devices were deep technological knowledge of hardware cross-cultural conversations about the status simply on our smart devices, but as part of the to make perfect recording of everyday life hacking and systems integration. of design across domains,” says Balsamo. “The environment. They are changing the nature of possible, they would still be likely to create a “The design process must engage a wider students and faculty in the School of Media the pedestrian experience in urban landscapes, sea of irrelevance. range of talented people on the design Studies will be enthusiastic about learning transforming the experience of city life into a “It is important to remember that with all team,” Balsamo says. “Good graphic and more about the status of design in Hong Kong interactivity designers are important, but so and throughout China.”
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M THERS OF INVENTION
To explore the beauty of an object is to engage with the genius behind its creation and as rik glauert reports, the exhibition “Every Product Tells a Story” at HKDI is a window into the elusive mind of the designer.
hether it’s derived immerse themselves in the complex solve a specific problem or to evoke from a sleek form or an act of designing. discussion. Axor Starck Organic is a ABOVE TOP AXOR STARCK ORGANIC, impressive functionality, There’s an old saying that necessity bathroom fitting that emanates tree BATHROOM FITTING DESIGNED BY good design is is the mother but in truth the branches – the designer has found STARCK NETWORK (PHILIPPE STARCK) W AND MANUFACTURED BY HANSGROHE intriguing. A well-crafted object process of creativity has multiple inspiration in one of nature’s most SE, RED DOT AWARD 2014 invites an exploration of how it was parents, depending on the degree of iconic shapes. The form of the tree ABOVE X MARK II, CALCULATOR DESIGNED BY CHAK YUN HEI AND conceived, why certain choices of functionality or decoration required has acted as a muse, and bringing REX HUNG HOI (HKDI ALUMNI), form or material were made and how and the context in which the object the iconic shape into the modern MANUFACTURED BY CANON the item arrived at its final form. In will be used. bathroom prompts subtle questions ELECTRONIC BUSINESS MACHINES (H.K.) COMPANY LIMITED, RED DOT: the exhibition “Every Product Tells A design’s inception may lie in about the power of water in nature BEST OF THE BEST AWARD 2013 a Story - Untold Matters of Red a single idea or concept but it will and the reasons why this resource LEFT LUCKY, CHAIR DESIGNED BY DESIGN BALLENDAT AND Dot Award-Winning Designs” at always be informed by something must be protected and nurtured. MANUFACTURED BY TONON & C. SPA, HKDI a selection of Red Dot Award external. Inspiration may be derived Similarly, the Lucky chair’s open RED DOT AWARD 2014 winning designs invite visitors to from a certain aesthetic, a desire to backrest mimics a smiling face, one
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WHAT YOU SEE IS LESS THAN WHAT YOU GET.
RIGHT EZYSTOVE, WOOD-BURNING STOVE DESIGNED BY VERYDAY AND MANUFACTURED BY VERYDAY AB, RED DOT: BEST OF THE BEST AWARD 2012 OPPOSITE NEST, STEWPOT DESIGNED BY 3+2 DESIGNSTUDIO AND MANUFACTURED BY SHU&W’S CERA, RED DOT AWARD 2014 OPPOSITE BELOW CAN-WATCH DESIGNED BY CHING YIN KAT LING, TIEN SUM SAMUEL SIU AND CHUN KIN KENNETH HO, MANUFACTURED BY ALCHEMIST CREATIONS COMPANY LIMITED, RED DOT: BEST OF THE BEST AWARD 2013 Every Product Tells a Story - Untold Matters of Red Dot Award-Winning Designs A designer’s intention is expressed not Exhibition period: 28 Nov 2014 - 31 May 2015 only through its colour and form, but also Venue: HKDI Gallery of the most recognisable signs in the frame to hold a pot or pan. The of individualism, Nest aims to revive through careful decisions regarding material world around us. The smile evokes simple yet effective design means communal eating and highlight the and manufacturing. A designer’s vision does an open, calming and joyful feeling that generating heat for cooking importance of familial relations. not end with sketches and prototypes. For regardless of culture or language. requires 40 percent less fuel and Functionally, the heavy clay and example, the Can-Watch promotes social In both Axor Starck Organic and emissions of noxious fumes are gravel of the pot keeps the food engagement and sustainability not just Lucky simple signifiers from nature cut by up to 80 percent. It is warm for an extended period, through its visual design but also through have acted as strong references for also cheap to make and can be meaning that families have time to the choice of material and fabrication. designs. These products display packed flat for transportation. The gather and to remain at the dinner The aluminium base of the Can-Watch an ancient and easily recognisable solving of a problem may be the table. Its large size means it is is crafted from recycled beverage cans shape that is re-appropriated to inspiration behind the product, designed to be placed in the middle whilst the leather strap is formed from invigorate the depth and meaning of but ingenuity and dedication are of the table and encourage communal residual pieces from sofa and handbag a household item. needed throughout the design engagement. On an aesthetic level, production. The watch is put together Other objects portray evidence of process to ensure this aim is the organic welcoming shape in workshops that offer employment to a more pragmatic approach. Some achieved, giving an insight into the and its heaviness evoke a sense of disabled people. As the designer puts it, designs are clearly conceived as a perseverance and adaptability of support, endurance and homeliness. “what you see is less than what you get.” solution to a specific problem or the design mind. The accompanying nest-like rest The Can-Watch reminds us that a design’s complication that the designer has Other designers draw inspiration references a bird’s nest and notions of value lies not just in the aesthetics but also witnessed. The design story told in not from tackling a specific physical family ties and unity. in choices made during construction. these products is a process of problem challenge but rather to evoke Similarly, designers of X Mark II, The individual intricate processes solving. The designer of EzyStove discussion on an apsect of society HKDI alumni Chak Yun Hei and of the design mind may never be fully observed that around 3 billion people or culture. A product’s design can Rex Hung Hoi have reinvigorated understood, but “Every Product Tells worldwide still cook over simple be conceived as a commentary on the pocket calculator in a bid to focus a Story - Untold Matters of Red Dot wood fires. Firewood is a precious a perceived discrepancy in the way the mind on single tasks. They see Award-Winning Designs” allows resource and smoke from open fires society works with its form and the calculator as “a reliable monolith, visitors to come face to face with them. is responsible for respiratory diseases. function being used to engage in a solid as a rock in a turbulent sea of The exhibition puts ground-breaking It was with this specific problem in dialogue that may ultimately change over-abundant information.” The contemporary design work under close mind that EzyStove was created. habits. The Nest pot is a carefully high-quality design and modern inspection and encourages intense EzyStove features a metal chamber conceived piece of tableware that aesthetic celebrates single-function contemplations of the inspirations, factors for the combustion of wood or brings families together to eat devices in an era where electronics and processes that go into creating award- other fuel and an outer support around the dining table. In a world are often dispensable. winning design.
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hotographers transform their perspective into images through a deft play of aperture and shutter speed. The second the shutter is clicked the subject in front of the lens becomes eternal, transcending time and space. This is the power of photography. Photography began with the pinhole imaging principle, the development of which is attributed to the legendary Chinese scholar and inventor Mo Zi who lived in the 5th century BC. Since this invention, ABOVE & RIGHT “TRADITION / ANTI- the means of producing photographic images has TRADITION” EXHIBITION AT HKDI been in a constant state of evolution. With time, what An exhibition at HKDI this autumn titled “Tradition/ was innovation becomes tradition, only to be quickly debunked by new ideas and technology. Anti-Tradition” sought to examine the transformation As part of the Hong Kong International Photo of photography in Hong Kong and Mainland China Festival 2014, the exhibition “Tradition / Anti-Tradition: Departed from Hong Kong’s Photo Pictorial Magazine” at by reviewing the early and recent work of leading HKDI revisits the development of photography in Hong photographers from both regions. amanda shuai discovered Kong and Mainland China. The photographs, spanning five decades from the 1960s onwards present the seismic that the images also gave powerful insights regarding the changes within the industry over the last half-century. future of the photographic arts. The ways in which photographers capture images tend to reflect the cultural and economic developments
PHOTO CREDIT TO HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL PHOTO FESTIVAL PHOTO INTERNATIONAL HONG KONG TO CREDIT PHOTO around them.
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TRADITIONS IN PHOTOGRAPHY DATE was in the throes of the Cultural BACK TO THE PICTORIALISM STYLE. Revolution and a series of political and cultural upheavals. Photography at that time was mostly aimed at In comparing two photographs statement regarding the subject preserving and recording history in taken by Hei Ming, the story of the matter’s beauty, using tonality and a journalistic sense, rather than to fifty years between each picture is composition to create an evocative express an aesthetic point of view. revealed. The two images depict the aesthetic atmosphere. The Hong Pictorialism did not find its way same person in the same setting in Kong-based photography magazine to the Mainland until the 1980s 1959 and 2009. The pictures, first in Photo Pictorial, among other when China implemented policies black and white and then in colour, publications of the era, featured many of reform. A number of Hong Kong provide evidence of developments works in this style. photographers and photography in photographic technology. The “Water Palette” is a classic publications were allowed to enter background remains unaffected whilst pictorial photograph taken by the Mainland, Photo Pictorial being the person is testament to inevitable Kan Hing Fook in Shatin, New the first. The influx of these new changes due to aging. Territories in 1958. In a beach currents influenced members of In Hong Kong and the Mainland scene of glinting water the light is photographer associations in China “traditions in photography date back soft and gentle while the level of and their creations began to evolve to the pictorialism style,” says Joseph the tide creates the perfect balance from works of propaganda to self- ABOVE “YIN REN” 1959 & 2009 BY Fung, curator of the exhibition. of waves and sand. Also featuring a HEI MING expressive pictorial images. Around the 1960s, pictorialism beached boat, the photograph gives OPPOSITE TOP ”WATER PALETTE”, The work in the exhibition makes was the mainstream in Hong Kong a tranquil and serene atmosphere SHATIN, NEW TERRITORIES, 1953 BY clear that Pictorialism as a tradition KAN HING FOOK photography, under the influence that is more commonly associated BELOW ”COOPERATIVE SHAM faded out of photography on both of the West. Cameras served as a with paintings. SHUI PO”, 1958 BY CHUNG MAN sides of the border as it made the
paintbrush making a strong artistic At the same time, the Mainland LURK FESTIVAL PHOTO INTERNATIONAL HONG KONG TO CREDIT PHOTO journey to cliché. “It doesn’t grow.
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It is repeating itself within a shape and is as versatile in making social dark room. Tai and Chak Wai Leung. whereas other styles such as social commentary in black and white “It’s like a renaissance in Indeed, tradition and anti-tradition documentary and conceptual work as literati painters were back in photography. The experience of may seem two juxtaposing concepts can and will grow and develop,” the dynastic China. The two black working with traditional materials on the path of photography’s says Fung. and white photographs that have and cameras can help create original development in the region yet the Tired of being confined by the been chosen for the exhibition ideas and persepctives for digital choice is always in the artist’s own limitations of simply capturing demonstrate the bitter condition work,” says Fung. Photographers hands. “These two are always working beautiful views and objects, of migrating workers. The one in the region are keen to school in parallel, some may take traditional anti-traditional photographers depicting a flock of migrating themselves in their discipline’s ways and some might want to work pushed back against Pictorialism geese that was taken in Shunde is traditions. “To learn something, you on a conceptual way of making and developed alternative styles. juxtaposed with “Migrant Workers have to learn through history, be clear photographs,” says Fung. They longed for room to express Returning to Hometown at Ji’an about how the media has evolved To keep the discipline moving their ideas and opinions amidst Station”, which features a crowd of through time.” forward, tradition provides an an environment of growing self- workers in transit. A large part of the work by essential foundation for the expression. Hong Kong photographers are also Hong Kong photographers in the art form, at the same time that Mainland photographer Rong retracing their steps to learn from exhibition are black and white technology is constantly developing Rong experimented with conceptual the past. Youngsters, especially those images, which invariably have been and new styles are emerging. The photography in the 1990s. In his born after the 1980s, leapt straight inspired by the enchanting power of boundary between tradition and “East Village 1994, No. 35” he makes into the digital world, foregoing film this original type of photography, and anti-tradition is dynamic and a bold statement through a chilling photography but there is a school of possess a historical charm. They have flexible. As new ideas, trends and depiction that has echoes of Grand- thought that says it is beneficial to created a range of effects via their technologies promote the anti- Guignol horror films. Hanging above learn traditional shooting methods, subdued monochromatic character, traditions in photography, there three men dressed as doctors, a understanding the characteristics of including work by Yu Wai Kin, Lau will always be new traditions taking naked man is seen bound by chains film, photographic papers, and the Ching Ping, Holly Lee, Leong Ka root. with his mouth gagged. With dark lighting and a sinister subject matter, the photograph creates a depressing, painful and claustrophobic atmosphere far removed from the TO LEARN SOMETHING, YOU HAVE TO LEARN pictorial style. Such an “anti-tradition” aesthetic THROUGH HISTORY, BE CLEAR ABOUT HOW THE gained popularity on the Mainland in the 1990s. At that time, international MEDIA HAS GONE THROUGH THE HISTORY. agencies and galleries traveled to China in search of photography
ABOVE ”EAST VILLAGE works for collections abroad. To example of the possibilities of such 1994, NO.35”, 1994 BY RONG RONG increase the possibilities of their limitless self-expression. OPPOSITE ”HELLO KITTY, works being sold, according to Fung, Despite the fact that digital HELLO SCULLY” - LASER Chinese photographers started to equipment and software make it IMAGE ON WOOD, 2014 BY BLUES WONG KAI YU create more conceptual works. easier to manipulate pictures, some In the 21st century the Mainland photographers have chosen development of technology to return to tradition by using film, allowed avant-garde photographers which in some quarters has become to expand the limits of their an avant-garde medium again. imagination. Photographers Mainland photographer An Ge conducted experiments with different is one of the advocates for taking techniques and methods to challenge photographs using “old school” the traditional means of recording techniques. Famous for his black and interpreting the world. Blues and white photographs that capture Wong Kai Yu’s use of laser images touching moments from ordinary projected onto wood in his piece lives, the literati photographer carries
“Hello Kitty, Hello Scully” is an films when taking photographs, FESTIVAL PHOTO INTERNATIONAL HONG KONG TO CREDIT PHOTO
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In a recent lecture at HKDI titled “Kungfu, Techne and the Future of Work” the author chan koonchung, whose recent novel The Fat Years was an international bestseller, dissected the nature and evolution of our working lives. Here he lays out his thoughts in a thought- provoking essay.
he social and anthropological school. Also inspired by Paul Goodman’s Growing Up of their lives, to increase the possibility of survival, and word are fundamentally rooted in context of “work” has recently Absurd, I put down these thoughts into words and was to move civilisation forward. People building houses social transformations, especially become a hotly debated topic. Many deeply encouraged by seeing them in print. to keep themselves safe and warm, making weapons to those brought about by the books and papers have discussed During college, the poem Two Tramps in Mud Time protect themselves and farming food are all examples industrial revolution, which has the influence of technology on by Robert Frost led me to think about the important of techne. The word also referred to mastering language, transformed societies by the the work place, the consequences distinction between a job and personal interests. Perhaps social manners, and even personal cultivation. Its emergence of finer division of of technological advancement on only when work and hobbies, vocation and avocation meaning is now associated only with technology, to the labour in factories, enterprises and employment rates and how the unite into one activity can human kind truly reach advancement of machines and devices. governments. To adjust to these education of the next generation will its potential. Yet in reality only a few people manage Kungfu is a Chinese word that initially meant any changes, education was divided into adjust to these changes. to have their personal interests or hobbies and work technique that progressed the quality of people’s different academic majors so that I began reflecting on the nature of combined. It is a goal that people struggle to achieve. lives. With time, philosophers selected and promoted every student only learned a narrow work when I was a teenager. My first With technology greatly impacting the nature of certain techniques to educate people on how to lead part of kungfu or techne. article was published in the culture work, I wonder what will be needed to make this goal a better life. They considered moral cultivation crucial Today technology is taking pages of the Sing Tao Daily when I achievable for the next generation. Before addressing in improving the quality of life. Subsequently, the over the skills that this form of was in the third year of high school. this question, I am going to first discuss two words – meaning of kungfu has become narrowed down to education was tailored for, as I was spending a large amount of techne and kungfu. Few people understand that they have mean practice and cultivation. Since the Song Dynasty, shown in its impact on the rate of time studying and preparing for very similar original meanings that have been narrowed kungfu refers to personal and moral cultivation in employment. With the advancement exams and I wondered if my future down over the past millennia. classic literature. However, its original rich meanings of technology, certain types of work employment would be relevant to In ancient Greek, techne stood in opposition to fate. are kept in daily conversations. either have been or will soon be the knowledge I was learning at It means the techniques that people use to take charge The reasons behind the altered meanings of each going through great upheavals. IMAGES FROM HKDI IMAGES
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So what skills are irreplaceable WHAT SKILLS ARE by machinery and digital software? The book The Second Machine Age IRREPLACEABLE BY by two MIT professors reads that only three skills are irreplaceable: MACHINERY AND DIGITAL creativity, complex communication and large frame pattern recognition. SOFTWARE? Both creativity and complex communication are fairly easy to process that not everybody possesses. comprehend. To understand what Schools are not yet ready to take these three skills as is meant by large frame pattern criteria to reform the curriculum and practices to train recognition, we can use processes the next generation. Alongside the development of implemented at Zara’s flagship technology the workforce of today need to keep learning stores in Europe as an example. and re-training to keep up. As such, schools need to re- The store directors observe what think how to help students to adapt to the advancement customers wear and try on, deduce of technology and the fluid nature of the workplace. what they truly enjoy buying and The education system in Finland encourages predict the next fashion trends, students to pursue their interests, to form study groups and then pass the information to voluntarily and to conduct research projects. As passion their designers. This is a complex is believed to be the biggest motivation for studying
and learning, Finnish students consumer society, it is an interesting feature of are among the top achievers in emerging enterprises that combine traditional skills and international academic competitions. technology that is not to be neglected. Moreover, there is abundant In general, it is predicted that there will be no such resources available online with thing as full employment in the future. Scholars at which users can learn the skills they Oxford University have even predicted that 47% need. With a flare for creativity of jobs in the US will be eliminated by technology and entrepreneurship, they can advancement within the next ten years. This makes it also use the Internet to initiate and unpredictable to foresee the future development of any establish projects cooperating with industry as well as difficult to establish job security. We people all over the world. Proficient are entering into an era where there will be no stable language skills and effective jobs as it is hard to predict if and when skills learnt will communication skills are basic be challenged by new technologies. We therefore need requirements for such work and are a new education system. essential in a counter-attack against Future education should focus not only on any future negative impacts brought developing IQ and rational thinking, but also on by new technologies. other aspects such as emotion and passion, proficient Recently, another trend has communication skills, transferable skills and the also developed. It is to combine art of coordinating hand and brain. Returning to machinery with human creativity the primary meanings of kungfu and techne could LEFT CHAN to make personalised products. In foster skills that help students adjust to advances in KOONCHUNG AT HKDI CAMPUS the post-Fordism era, products technology and the changing nature of work, as well OPPOSITE CHAN with originality are proving highly as to foster more entrepreneurs who combine aptitude KOONCHUNG’S popular with consumers. Although with personal interests. LECTURE “KUNGFU, TECHNE AND THE they are not part of mainstream FUTURE OF WORK” AT HKDI FROM HKDI IMAGES
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OF THE IGN TIME Japanese poster art deploys a unique arsenal of aesthetics to question the traditions of visual communications. The Japanese Poster Artists – Cherry Blossom and Asceticism exhibition at HKDI immerses viewers in the OPPOSITE AT THE HOUSE subtle story of the artform. OF M. CIVEÇAWA (1965, REPRINTED IN 1990) BY rik glauert TADANORI YOKOO reports. LEFT SHISEIDO (2012) BY KATSUHIKO SHIBUYA
atsuhiko Shibuya’s 2012 and reflects the influences that have Japan’s cityscapes they induce quiet poster for Shiseido is an abstract buffeted Japan in the 21st century. reflection, a cultural and artistic tangle of rigid lines and juxtaposed To explore the components of the sublimity. In modern Japan posters spaces of harsh black and serene white. Japanese poster is to reflect upon hold a unique position of being The form is radical and minimalist to the history of modern Japan and to functional works of art that are the point where the brand Shiseido discover why the creators of these publicly accessible. itself is at risk of disappearing within posters are both designers and artists. In the 1950s Japan regained an abstract web. This is Japanese Japanese advertising is often economic prowess and looked poster design – conventional rules thought of in terms of the giant outward for an identity informed of advertising are shirked in favour billboards at the Shibuya crossing by contemporary style. As a nation of evoking an emotion. The medium or the neon characters that line keen to place itself firmly on the becomes the message – subtle, elusive the highways of Shinjuku. Poster international map, early poster and engaging. art is the antithesis of such garish artists and designers in Japan took Characteristics of modernism marketing and is king of a far more inspiration from the modernism include an appreciation of line and intimate realm. In Japan, posters of the West. Using the rational script and a manipulation of blank are mostly found in indoor space stripped down style that was in space. With his Shiseido poster – train stations, department stores, vogue they hoped to position Japan Shibuya is toying with these features cafes, galleries and museums. In as a progressive nation with a as he draws upon his own culture opposition to the brash lights of burgeoning contemporary art and IMAGES PROVIDED BY MUSEUM OF DESIGN ZURICH PROVIDED IMAGES
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design scene. film director Akira Kurosawa and for their works. Japanese poster art Even at this fledgling stage Japan’s novelist Yukio Mishima, who wrote, of the sixties and seventies reveals poster artists were shifted and “Tadanori Yokoo’s works reveal an artistic community searching swayed by Japan’s history as they all of the unbearable things which out a new and unique style. forged the new art scene. Although we Japanese have inside ourselves Through the simple method of the poster artists such as Hiroshi Ohchi, and they make people angry and woodblock, line and plane became Yusaku Kamekura and Kenji Itoh frightened. He makes explosions the tools in pictorial composition were conversing in the language with the frightening resemblance – both abstract yet expressive. of Western modernism (and even which lies between the vulgarity These stylings bear evidence to the using Latin writing) they stirred in of billboards advertising variety international interaction between very Japanese elements. A sensitivity shows during festivals at the shrine abstract modernism and the ancient to colour and light, whimsical devoted to the war dead and the Japanese aesthetics. narrative elements and a subtle red containers of Coca Cola in The style is personified in Yusaku lyricism are all evident even in these American Pop Art, things which Kamekura’s iconic poster for the early works. are in us but which we do not want 1964 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. This was especially evident to see.” The piece shows the geometrical in the work of Tadanori Yokoo, As Japan secured its footing on vocabulary favoured by early masters who is sometimes described as the world stage, artists began to of Japanese poster art with the “the Japanese Andy Warhol” delve deeper into the country’s variations of the circle and the formal but whose influences are more own rich cache of culture for Latinate lettering. The prevalence profoundly rooted in Japanese inspiration – traditions, techniques of this functional simplicity is also culture, especially the work of and philosophies all provided fuel evident in Ikko Tanaka’s poster for IN MODERN JAPAN POSTERS HOLD A OPPOSITE (FROM LEFT) TOKYO 1964 (1964) the 200th anniversary of Sharaku, in favour of a minimalist style (often BY YUSAKU KAMEKURA; JAPANESE UNIQUE POSITION OF BEING PUBLICLY where he used block-coloured planes using only two dimensions), which CULTURE – THE FIFTY POSTWAR YEARS 1945- and lines to create a traditional leaves viewers in charge of the 1995 (1995) BY TADANORI YOKOO ABOVE (FROM LEFT) THE HUMAN RIGHTS ACCESSIBLE FUNCTIONAL WORKS OF ART. visage. The effect is both true to the depiction’s message. This does not ... / IMAGES INTERNATIONAL POUR LES Japanese style yet tinged with a sharp mean posters must be plain however, DROITS DE L’HOMME ET DU CITOYEN / tang of surrealism. with motifs and stylistic additions ARTIS ‘89 (1989) BY SHIGEO FUKUDA; A POSTER FROM KAZUMASA NAGAI In a loftier sense, Japanese often encrypting layers of messages EXHIBITION (1991) BY KAZUMASA NAGAI artists evoked the country’s that intrigue and engage. ancient philosophies by filling The great master of Japanese Japanese Poster Art exhibition at their creations with elements of poster art, Kazumasa Nagai, HKDI redefine the language of Japanese Zen Buddhism. Areas personifies this concentration on visual communication, or at least absent of colour create a calm field essentials. Nagai began work in the one of its major dialects. These are that allows interpretation from eighties and his figurative mode posters that are not designed to the viewer and encourages a sense of design is marked by ornamental deliver a hard commercial message of intrigue. The work of Shigeo animal figures. Nagai deployed later – they present a hiatus of reflection Fukuda, for example, comfortably features of the genre by introducing and clarity to induce social, and confidently manipulates blank a resplendent use of colour and political and cultural reflecton. As space, which he uses assertively to light. Nagai’s careful manipulation a collection, they give an insight express his underlying themes. His adds spiritual interpretation and into the development of a subtle lacuna encourages meditation and weight, revealing the depths of what to-and-fro of ancient tradition contemplation. a poster can achieve. and contemporary influence that Japan’s poster artists spurned The dichotomies of Nagai’s has become the hallmark of a very photorealistic or illusionist renderings and others’ work on display at the Japanese aesthetic.
Japanese Poster Artists - Cherry Blossom and Asceticism Exhibition period: 14 Oct 2014 - 30 Mar 2015 Venue: G/F, d-mart, HKDI IMAGES PROVIDED BY MUSEUM OF DESIGN ZURICH PROVIDED IMAGES
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Two designers have harnessed creativity and innovation to recreate and invigorate a traditional Swedish handicraft using recycled materials. As libby zeng reports their FROM LEFT goal is to persuade the whole world to KASURI; ARCHIPELAGO; embrace sustainable design. MILKY WAY FROM RE RAG RUG COLLECTION
The more I talk about it, the more it becomes my favourite,” said Katarina Evans as she pointed at a beautiful multi-coloured rug during our tour of “Re Rag Rug – Contemporary Rug Design by Studio Brieditis & Evans: Sweden”, an exhibition at the HKDI Gallery which will last until the end of March next year. “ Twelve beautiful rag rugs formed from unwanted material from the textile industry lay serenely on the floor, eloquently telling enchanting stories through M a great variety of shapes, colours, materials, textile techniques and styles. Re Rag Rug is an innovative project begun in 2012 that has created a stir around the globe and won several prestigious awards. Renowned Swedish designers Katarina Brieditis and Katarina Evans set out with a mission to promote sustainable design through A creating Swedish rag rugs with recycled materials and innovative techniques. All the rag rugs are made of discarded materials. Half of them are created from old T-shirts whilst the other half G is formed from second-hand woolen sweaters. Not only do the rugs meet people’s demands for functionality, they have an aesthetic charm that is both rustic yet progressive – a sophistication that belies the fact they are created from I discarded materials. C CARPETS
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OPPOSITE A DESIGNER WORKING ON OFF PIST FROM RE RAG RUG COLLECTION RIGHT KATARINA BRIEDITIS AND KATARINA EVANS BELOW STUDIO IN WHICH RE RAG RUG COLLECTION IS CREATED
“This is exactly what we want to prove through the project, that recycled products don’t have to look like WHAT WE NEED IS something being recycled. You should use them just like any other material,” emphasised Brieditis. UPCYCLING – WHERE Recycled materials can bring more value and generate more possibilities to designers compared to the use of OLD PRODUCTS ARE new materials. This is the essence of upcycling, a word coined by the famous German engineer Reiner Pilz in GIVEN MORE VALUE, 1994 who said “what we need is upcycling – where old products are given more value, not less.” NOT LESS There are many examples in the Re Rag Rug collection and OFF PIST is one of them. Made of second- hand white T-shirts that have been torn into strips and embellished with embroidery, the rag rug has a that compel designers to use their skills of observation, non-traditional, curved shape and appears like waves craftsmanship, imagination and creativity to the fullest. and ripples flowing with a vivid and vibrant sense of The use of recycled materials thus becomes a source of movement. The different textures of the T-shirts endow it inspiration and a muse to the creative mind. with a number of tones and shades. Compared to their European counterparts, Swedish “It would be boring if it was in just one shade of white, designers are pioneers of upcycling. By integrating this which is what we might end up with when we use new concept to their arts and crafts practice, they are in fact materials. But with all these used T-shirts, we had a reinventing a tradition with deep roots in Swedish society. complete palette to paint with,” recalls Brieditis. Using old Rag rugs were originally made using old household materials also provides opportunities to reminisce about materials such as worn-out shirts, threadbare dresses the past, bestowing designs with unique associations that and gowns – these were commonplace in cottages, could never be attained with new materials. farmhouses and mansions throughout Sweden for more The physical limitations of using recycled materials are than 150 years. Re Rag Rug is hoped by the designers to evident – designers must relinquish control over sourcing, extend and redefine this discipline. textures and colours. However, it is these limitations “We want to inspire people to think outside of the
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box and that’s why we set so many rules for this project at the beginning. For example, each textile technique is THIS IS THE ONLY WAY FOR only allowed to be used once,” says Brieditis. In total, Re Rag Rug showcases 12 different textile Although the designers embrace and spare no efforts THEM TO REMAIN COMPETITIVE techniques including sewing, crocheting, knitting and to promote the concept of sustainable design, they don’t embroidery. “The techniques we have used come from want it to be regarded as a new fashion trend. IN THE FUTURE. everywhere including Japan, Bangladesh and America. A fashion trend will always fade sooner or later. The They are so common and simple that almost everybody rich knowledge and experience possessed by the duo knows how to use them, but it’s the way we use them establishes a solid foundation and a strong vision for international competitiveness. that make them special,” says Evans. what the Re Rag Rug project can achieve. “We want to The role that designers serve as a link between producers The duo prepared for the exhibition for more create something real, we want to do things beneficial and consumers has become more important during the than 10 years. From 2003 to 2007, they made the to the environment in as many ways as possible and we process of implementing sustainable design. In Sweden, first attempt to demonstrate their creative ideas to want to develop handicraft productions all around the designers are getting involved in the production process the public and peer designers through a recycle and globe,” says Brieditis. more closely than ever before due to producers’ urgent handicraft project called Do Redo. The initial project To the designers, the Re Rag Rug project is just demand for finding solutions to industrial waste. According was a huge success and laid a solid foundation for one more stage on a long journey. They are walking to Brieditis, in the future designers will be inextricably making Re Rag Rug come to fruition. firmly towards sustainable design on two legs, “one leg involved in the production process as early as possible. Their innovative, unorthodox ways of combining is exhibition, through which our messages can reach Brieditis and Evans also have great expectations of recycled materials has led to a new stylistic expression, a wider audience with the help of different media the students at HKDI, who are fortunate to be given one of the initial goals of the project. “In this sense channels, and the other leg is production, with a hope to opportunities to work closely with the upcycling industry the expression is more important than the material,” pursue reproduction opportunities for the rag rugs in the at an early stage, so that they can be better prepared for Brieditis explains. project,” says Evans. the fierce competition of sustainable design. As environmental issues become more pressing, “Young designers have to inform themselves in the it’s inevitable that designers worldwide will integrate practice of sustainable design because this is the only way the concept of upcycling into their design process, for them to remain competitive in the future. There is no adding value to products, but also boosting their other way,” emphasises Evans. The pair extol the virtues of working with recycled materials saying designers feel Re Rag Rug - Contemporary Rug fulfilled by adding extra value to their products, crossing Design by Studio Brieditis & Evans: Sweden the boundaries of innovation and creativity and most Exhibition period: 24 Oct 2014 - 23 Mar 2015 importantly, showing respect to the environment in which Venue: M/F, d-mart, HKDI they live.
FROM LEFT AQUARELLE; RE ORIENT; CONFETTI FROM RE RAG RUG COLLECTION
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The cache of graduate projects from ECAL/ University of Art and Design Lausanne on display at HKDI reveals a wide-eyed curiosity that is characteristic of the renowned Swiss school’s energetic approach to design education. rik glauert reports.
iyun Deng’s cutlery Nestled on the northern shores of Lake Geneva, the Graft asks some big questions. Her school lies in the shadows of the Jura Mountains. Qcarefully formed forks, knives and Yet despite its rural idyll and the storied history of spoons subtly yet impeccably mimic its setting, ECAL is an institute that has it eyes the shape, colour and texture of firmly fixed on the future. fruit and vegetables. Created from At the centre of the school is a remit to look biodegradable materials, Deng uses forward, to question, to revolutionise. ECAL these pieces to interrogate humanity’s asks only one thing of its students – endless the relationship with consumption, curiosity. In return for an open mind, sustainability and nature. This kind of the school promises to forge neophyte investigation and the intriguing way creatives into fully functioning art and it is executed is typical of an ECAL design professionals. The grand vision graduation project. is that a student’s time at ECAL will In the centre of Lausanne, an equip them with a full set of tools to ancient city noted for its cathedral, tackle the contemporary challenges of the market squares and bridges, ECAL’s art and design industry. It is with this promise campus occupies 2 hectares of that ECAL welcomes students to complete foundation dynamic real estate where 600 courses, bachelor degrees, masters and advanced studies design minds are carefully cultivated. in disciplines ranging from fine arts to media and
OPPOSITE LUCIOLE BY CESARE BIZZOTTO AND MOISES f HERNANDEZ IN COLLABORATION WITH BACCARAT ABOVE VENDOME BY JOSEPHINE CHOQUET AND QIYUN DENG IN COLLABORATION WITH BACCARAT LEFT GRAFT BY DES GN QIYUN DENG
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curricula and programmes that ECAL offers. In the work completed by students, Georgacopoulos explains “there can also be lightness and even humour in the initial idea and on the context which balances off a bit with a more serious – we could call it ‘Swiss’ – technical background.” Perfectly encapsulating balance of playful ingenuity REINVENT YOURSELF, with a technical prowess is Mugi Yamamoto’s inkjet printer. Perched atop a tall stack of plain A4 white INNOVATE, CREATE paper, once activated Yamamoto’s machine deftly begins consuming the blank paper beneath, printing on it, NEW MODELS. before piling the finished articles neatly above. The device eliminates bulky paper trays and endless acts of refilling reignite and reinvigorate the conventions of a printer. Deng’s cutlery and Yamamoto’s printer are just two of the projects presented by ECAL at HKDI. Together the examples paint a picture of the core elements of ECAL’s unique dynamism. Each piece portrays a brash creativity and a strong desire to push the forefront of their field. The exhibition provides a well-designed bridge between Hong Kong and Switzerland and is OPPOSITE FROM LEFT FULL homage to the power of international connectivity. TURN, A DEVICE FOR THREE- DIMENSIONAL DISPLAY BY BENJAMIN MUZZIN; DILLY BAG BY GUILLAUME RENAUDIN ECAL Diplomas - Best emerging designers ABOVE BRICK, VASE BY AURELIE MATHIEU AND PHILIPPE from Switzerland KARRER IN COLLABORATION Exhibition period: 28 Nov 2014 - 28 Feb 2015 WITH BACCARAT Venue: Experience Centre, HKDI BELOW STACK, INKJET PRINTER BY MUGI YAMAMOTO
interaction design, from film studies to industrial design. essential in promoting their designs. According to Alexis Georgacopoulos, Director of These skills may be taught in the classroom but they ECAL, ECAL’s mantra encourages every student to need honing in the field. This is ECAL’s forte; “we are “reinvent yourself, innovate, create new models” – making very much in contact with the industry, companies and a fresh attitude central to the school’s ethos. This sense institutions so the students get to know from an early of innovation, vitality and regeneration permeates the stage what it is to work with partners.” These links also infrastructure of the school. ECAL’s striking post-modern mean that students’ visibility on the design scene is architecture promises regeneration amidst an ancient developed from day one. metropolis. Wandering around these vibrant learning The 21st century savvy design minds of the future and research spaces, one is struck by an abundance of don’t just need to be communicative, they need to be fresh faces. The majority of ECAL’s staff are close to the international. This internationalism is weaved into the students’ age – “they have a lot of energy to give and the fabric of the institution with students and staff hailing students can relate to them easily.” from over 40 different countries. Design projects, visits, This approach is fundamental in an industry that is forums and exchanges that ECAL partakes in are constantly evolving. We inhabit an Internet age where scattered across the globe. immediate communication defines all aspects of personal ECAL’s reach may stretch around the globe but and professional life. Creatives can no longer confine the institution has not forgotten its obligations to themselves to working alone diligently in a studio. For a Switzerland. Their vision is a globalisation firmly designer or artist to flourish (or even survive) in the 21st rooted in local ties, which is why they are working with century, effective communication is essential. Online, prestigious local brands such as Vacheron Constantin and students will need to promote new designs and projects Nestlé alongside other international institutions. through websites, blogs, and social media. Offline, This play of national and international is also used
presentations at exhibitions and conferences will be to evoke a sense of design identity across the different ECAL IMAGES
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From August to October this year fashion retailer Joyce showcased four new designer brands selected by HKDI. The pop-up boutique project at PMQ was called “Talent Shop” and aimed to provide young designers with a concrete business platform to showcase their work. daniel jeffreys reports.
RIGHT WAN & WONG’S LOOKBOOK CARING FOR OPPOSITE KELVIN WAN
essentials. The fledgling designers create a sense CREA IVI Y of drama with their work, which they hope will now be known by a wider audience, something the capital and tools they need he innovative fashion label Wan & Wong, founded in spring that young Hong Kong designers often struggle to thrive. 2013 by Kelvin Wan and Joyce Wong, make garments that to reach. The collaboration with Joyce are cut with a pared down aesthetic and simple monochrome “Most people in Hong Kong don’t really serves to nurture individual lines. The minimalist and utilitarian designs portray an intimate appreciate the creativity of young designers,” designers and brands at the understanding of the millennial’s preoccupations – call it flair says Kun. “Those who have the opportunity most delicate stages of their with functionality. to set up a fashion label in London or New development, while encouraging Yet the simplicity of Wan & Wong’s designs belies an York get more exposure and have a better diversity, innovation and social unexpected agenda. Sustainability is at the core of the duo’s work. environment to succeed in.” responsibility. Their clean architectural shapes and basic silhouettes are crafted Like the other three labels in the project, For example, A Tentative from recycled material and produced using sustainable methods. Chan and Kun benefited from HK$10,000 Atelier’s lines are created by a “Our most recent collection had patterns that were inspired of financial sponsorship from Joyce Cares, as breed of artisans and machinists by the way pollution affects the colour and texture of the ocean,” well as a swift injection of market expertise. in Shanghai who were at risk of says Wong. “In Hong Kong sustainable fashion is not really Joyce Cares pledged to unleash their full array extinction. The label’s engagement popular and people don’t yet understand it.” of fashion business acumen on the emerging and the support from Joyce Cares Wan & Wong was among four emerging fashion brands designers. Assistance included operations, visual gave the artisans a new lease on founded in whole or part by alumni from HKDI that were merchandising, and marketing for the rising life. The label’s creations have featured at the ‘Talent Shop’, a pop-up store hosted by Joyce talents at each of the four brands. recently won applause during Cares at PMQ this autumn. This level of support underlines Joyce’s shows in Paris. With the motto “We Share, We Care, We Contribute” Joyce commitment to provide young members of Modement offer a unisex Cares is a philanthropic arm of Hong Kong fashion-power the industry with a fertile platform on which line with bold silhouettes that house Joyce, committed to nurturing upcoming artists and their creativity can germinate, plus some of evoke Hong Kong’s multifaceted designers and promoting sustainable and responsible design. All four ready-to-wear labels were selected by faculty from HKDI for review by Joyce’s management team. Alongside Wan & Wong were The World Is Your Oyster, A Tentative Atelier MOST PEOPLE IN HONG KONG DON’T and Modement. Calvin Chan and Joyce Kun founded the World Is REALLY APPRECIATE THE CREATIVITY OF Your Oyster in early 2014 and their classic tailoring with contemporary urban styling delivers collections of wardrobe YOUNG DESIGNERS.
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culture. Both subtle and oblique references to the gritty Hong Kong landscape and to the vernacular food culture are engrained in the clothing. “The Concept for Modement S/S 2014 collection is ‘Emptiness’, the idea that people in our society are lost in the material world suffocated by broken relationships, distorted values and virtual promises,” says fashion blogger Tim Wong, who is a fan and supporter of the brand. “Many pieces in this beautiful collection use glow-in-the-dark materials which highlights the silhouettes worn at night.” The “Talent Shop” gave four of Hong Kong’s rising talents a unique opportunity to get funding and expert advice to boost their brands. Such initiatives are another step down the road toward Hong Kong become a major power in the fashion industry – not as a passive importer PRIDE IS A of expensive imported European brands but as a producer and consumer of home PERSONAL grown talent. MODEMENT’S LOOKBOOK COMMITMENT. IT IS AN ATTITUDE WHICH SEPARATES EXCELLENCE FROM MEDIOCRITY. WILLIAM BLAKE
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