Direction Card Instructions

The Direction Card is used to give instructions to the marker and cutter as well as assist the samplemaker in sewing the garment. The direction card should have a -coded (optional) listing by category of all pieces in the pattern. Code the pattern and direction card as follows:

• MAIN BODY (or SELF) = Pencil or • COMBO I (2nd color/type fabric) = • COMBO II (3rd color/type fabric) = • LINING = • FUSING/INTERFACING = SLOPER FOR FUSED GOODS (Not a term we use here) = (use a Highlighter over regular color codes to achieve this) SLOPERS (Templates) for Button, Buttonhole placement, etc. =

All information on each pattern piece, grainline as well as other labeling, must be executed in the appropriate color-code (if coding is used).

In a case where there are more than two combo fabrics, select that will not be confused for the standard colors, such as , turquoise, etc. If multiple types of the fusing exist, all are labeled in red but are noted “Fusing #1”, “Fusing #2”, and so on, no only on the direction card, but on each pattern piece as well.

Give each category a heading on the direction card. This is especially important if you are sending work out to contractors. Though these color codes are common, not every company uses the same. Without a listed category your garment could easily be cut incorrectly. Follow the order of the code list at left on your direction card. The fabrics go first, (titled main body or self, etc. according to the quantity used) any lining next and then fusing. All types of slopers go last, listed in order of use during production.

Pieces are generally listed largest to smallest, in a front to back order. Keep the names of the pieces as simple as possible without causing confusion. Do not skip lines between any pieces within a category.

If you are making a pattern for an ensemble, suit, etc. combine all pieces onto one direction card. This will ensure that the pieces are cut from the exact same goods. Since they will be sold together, they must be from the same dye lot.

Include flat sketches, front and back, of your garment, indicating fabric changes (if using combo fabrics), stripe directions, etc.

If you need something cut for which you have no pattern piece (i.e., bias strips), use an asterisk (*) and write out the dimensions of the pieces to be cut (* cut 1” x 40” bias for neck finish) along with their purpose.

All pattern pieces must be labeled with style number (Project Name), number of pieces alike in the pattern (circled), size, and the students name.