SCHLOESSERLAND SACHSEN. Old Splendor in New Glory

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SCHLOESSERLAND SACHSEN. Old Splendor in New Glory. Exhibition 300 Years of MEISSEN Old Splendor in New Glory. All Nations Are Welcome

300 Years of MEISSEN as a Bridge between Cultures, Nations, and Religions

The world-famous MEISSEN trademark is celebrating In the year 2010 the Museum of MEISSEN Art in the City Experience MEISSEN not only as table culture but also as its 300th anniversary. Three centuries of the connection of Meißen is going to show how the manufactory has been MEISSEN Fine Living, as high-quality interior design and of craftsmanship, aesthetics and passion are the occasion interpreting international inﬂ uences since its foundation in art de vivre, as artistic expression of the linkage for presenting an intercultural anniversary exhibition: the year 1710 and how it made its contribution to art history. between cultures, nations and religions of our world.

Museum of MEISSEN Art | Talstraße 9 | 01662 Meißen | Phone +49 (0) 3521 468 700 | Fax +49 (0) 3521 468 804 | [email protected] | www.meissen.com Old Splendor in New Glory. How the nobility left their mark Palaces and mansions in Saxony Albrechtsburg Castle Meissen / Augustusburg Castle 08/09 06 – 35 Burgk Castle / Colditz Castle 10/11 Delitzsch Castle / Dresden Castle 12/13 Little Pheasant Castle / Freudenstein Castle 14/15 Güldengossa Castle / Hartenfels Castle 16/17 Klaffenbach Castle / Klippenstein Castle 18/19 Krobnitz Castle / Lauenstein Castle 20/21 Lichtenstein Palace / Castle & Park Lichtenwalde 22/23 Lingner Palace / Moritzburg Castle 24/25 Nossen Castle / Castle & Park Pillnitz 26/27 Rammenau Castle / Rochlitz Castle 28/29 Schlettau Castle / Schwarzenberg Castle 30/31 Wackerbarth Castle / Weesenstein Castle 32/33 Wildeck Castle / Dresden Zwinger 34/35

A country in arms Castles and fortresses in Saxony Dresden Fortress / Gnandstein Castle 38/39 36 – 45 Königstein Fortress / Kriebstein Castle 40/41 Mildenstein Castle / Ortenburg Castle 42/43 Scharfenstein Castle / Stolpen Castle 44/45

Nature and art in harmony Gardens and parks in Saxony Spa Park in Bad Elster / Count Pückler Park 48/49 46 – 51 The Great Garten of Dresden / The Grosssedlitz Baroque Garden 50/51 The triumphant march of knowledge Monasteries in Saxony

Altzella Monastery Park 53 52 – 55 Buch Monastery / Wechselburg Benedictine Monastery 54/55

The experience of grand joie de vivre Accommodation in Saxony Althörnitz Castle Hotel / Colditz Castle European Youth Hostel 58/59 56 – 65 Dresden-Pillnitz Castle Hotel / Gaussig Castle Hotel 60/61 Hohnstein Castle / Schweinsburg Castle Hotel 62/63 Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski Dresden / Boarding House »Zur Königlichen Ausspanne« 64/65

Four ways to Saxony’s history Theme routes The valley of the castles 68/69 66 – 75 Palaces of the old and the new rich 70/71 Between nature and culture 72/73 Foreign rule and tolerance 74/75

Map of Saxony Editorial details Old splendor in new The medium for the spread of culture, however, was not nobility itself so much as the church. Significant libraries and art treasures were to be glory. found behind thick monastery walls, in chapter houses and in hermitages where the classical languages were cultivated as well as in peaceful cloisters For more than eight hundred years the Saxons lived under only one dy- where the art of medicine, horticulture and handicrafts was cultivated. Af- nasty. The art-loving margraves, dukes, prince electors and kings from the ter the Reformation, which as we all know built its first »mighty fortress« House of Wettin invited first-class architects and artists to stay permanent- in Saxony, many monasteries passed over to a secular use. ly at their court, especially during the Baroque era when the Saxon Sun King Augustus the Strong and his son Friedrich August II ruled the land so Dresden as a royal seat developed into Germany’s most beautiful city, sparkingly. They transformed their country into what it is today: the most lavishly furnished with splendid architecture and unique art treasures. popular destination in Germany for culture-loving tourists. The world of A wealth of top-class cultural monuments also developed in many other the Wettin dynasty is an absolute feast for the senses and attracts millions places in Saxony. In the 19th century »new regents« appeared: mining of visitors to the country along the banks of the Elbe river every year. barons and industrial tycoons erected mansions that took second place to the splendor of the feudal residences only in age. Saxony lies in the heart of Central Europe at the crossroads of great cultures where during the Middle Ages the trading route between the Baltic The time is right for a journey to the land of palaces, castles and gardens Sea and the Adriatic met many times with the one between Russia and – especially after this world has once again come to life following the re- Flanders. Anyone who wanted to assert his rights in the midst of this unification of Germany. Now is therefore the moment to enjoy the grand confused mixture of secular and religious interests had to have a firm base savoir-vivre at the lovingly restored palaces where you can now cast a which was able to withstand any onslaught. Later, when the former me- glance over the battlements of formerly impregnable castles and fortresses dieval robber barons where replaced by diplomacy, the law of succession and peer into a great past and find mystic tranquillity among the peace and marriage politics, many of these former fortified castles changed into and quiet behind old monastery walls and even stand in awe at the beauty prestigious palaces. of the lavish historic gardens and parks. How the nobility left their mark

Palaces and mansions in Saxony The splendor of the grand architecture of the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and Baroque could only express itself during an age when wealth and a refined taste for art were able to come together as one. This was a time and a place where nature and culture, picturesque river valleys and magnificent palatial gardens, high cliffs and mighty fortresses, the depths of the forests and the romantic seats of nobility were able to come together and form an awe-inspiring tout ensemble. Where else can visitors find a room containing millions of artistically woven feathers next to the oldest castle in Germany which is not far from three splendid palaces situated like pearls strung on a chain or, for that matter, unexplainable stairway constructions which seem to defy the laws of physics? 010 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The Meissen castle hill with the castle and the cathedral (top) — The spiral staircase (bottom) — The Town of Augustusburg with the Castle www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 011

The crown of the Palaces and mansions in Saxony Ore Mountains

ere, where stallions once breathed heavily in front of grand atmosphere but also because of its spaciousness which has been put to barouches, horse-powered engines now roar. Augustusburg good use. There is hardly another castle in Germany which offers such H Castle is one of the favorite places of motorcycle fans since a large variety of cultural and educational programs inside its castle this is the home of Europe’s largest motorbike museum. Numerous walls. Here visitors will not only find the motorcycle museum but former exhibits from the history of this fascinating means of travel are also other worthwhile exhibitions and an observation tower. In ad- on display here. During the »Winter Meeting« of the motorcycle condition, falconry shows of eagles and hawks allow visitors to vividly gregation, Augustusburg Castle attracts thousands of motorcycle fans. experience these majestic birds of prey. The artistically minded will The monumental Renaissance castle stands on a well-chosen site. Visible love the sight of the altarpiece of the castle church which was painted from afar, this old hunting lodge rises above the Zschopau valley on by Lucas Cranach the Younger. This altarpiece is considered to be one a porphyry cone. It is aptly called the »Crown of the Ore Mountains« of the most remarkable works of art of its kind. It has never been removed because of its roof shape. The imposing structure which in four centu- from its original location since the church was consecrated. Furthermore, ries has lost none of its former appeal was completed in the year 1572. for those who wish to rest after having enjoyed all the sights, the castle Augustusburg Castle, however, not only impresses through its historic also contains a youth hostel where you can stay the night. The cradle of Saxony

here is the hill on which three beautifully mirrored in the waters of the Elbe, a Gothic masterpiece, is just as inviting as the castles stand alongside three wa- a literal highlight of the panorama of the once decrepit and now lovingly restored old W ters – thus goes an old German valley. The tragedy of the place being that town of Meissen with its red tiled roofs. rhyme. The solution to the riddle is »Meis- this precious jewel on a high cliff remained sen« whose castle hill is surrounded by the almost unused for centuries. It was not un- rivers Elbe, Triebisch and Meisa and where til Augustus the Strong decreed that the first in the days of old the margraves, bishops European porcelain manufactory move into and the burgrave would reside high above the building that new life was breathed into the town. The presence of these powers in a the castle. With the »White Gold« produced confined area aptly demonstrated the former therein Meissen then began its triumphant significance of the »cradle of Saxony«. With march through Europe. On the three exhibi- Albrechtsburg Castle the first German palace tion floors we are reminded of this stroke of and a masterly piece of architecture was cre- occidental inventive genius. Below richly dec- ated whose bold architectural solutions and orated arches behind splendid curtain bow design still impresses visitors today. Its high windows visitors will find a real picture book spires, bright facades and wide windows are of Saxon history. The neighboring cathedral,

Albrechtsburg Castle Augustusburg Castle Albrechtsburg Meissen | Domplatz 1 | 01662 Meißen | Phone +49 (0) 35 21 4 70 70 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Siebenlehn Exit, continue on Route Schloss Augustusburg | 09573 Augustusburg | Phone +49 (0) 3 72 91 38 00 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A72/A4 Frankenberg Exit, continue on Route 180 B101 to Meissen Highway A13 Radeburg Exit, continue on Highway A14 Nossen-Ost Exit, continue on Route B6 from Dresden to Meissen or direct from Dresden with the Elbe steamer shuttleservice between towards Flöha to Augustusburg. Train Line 517 Flöha – Bärenstein to Erdmannsdorf, continue with the historic funicular railway to Augustusburg — Free admission to the castle and the permanent exhibition the Porcelain Manufactory, the Old Town and Castle Hill — Free admission to the castle and the permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to the special with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to the special exhibitions, with the exception of events. exhibitions, with the exception of events. 12 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The manor (left) — The entrance to the yard (top right) — The Municipal Art Collection (bottom right) — The castle grounds www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 13

Great escapes Palaces and mansions in Saxony

uler’s seat, hunting lodge, widow’s residence – with its white gables Colditz Castle is one of the most beautiful and stylistically unadulterated architectural monuments R of Central Germany in the 16th century. When nowadays groups of travelers from around the world crowd around the castle and its grounds, then this is not only because of their interest in Renaissance architecture. The reason for the crowd has more to do with recent history than with the past since the spacious castle was a significant internment camp for high ranking officers of the Western allies during the Second World War and it was to become world famous later through the book »The Colditz Story« and the film of the same name. Mainly Brit- ish, Dutch and French military personnel were kept prisoner here including the nephew of Win-

Color and coal

omanticism, Expressionism and the colorful oil paintings on canvas is wait- industrial history all in one place? ing next door in the main building of the R Burgk Castle brings it all together! castle where the 450-year history of the min- The former knights’ estate which has been re- ing industry in Freital has been richly docu- nowned as a manor since the 14th century mented. An authentic mining situation in and which was an administrative center of the a side building impressively reproduces the »Baron von Burgk Hard Coal Works« today infamous uranium mining of the SDAG houses a museum complex with a large vari- Wismut which provided the raw material for ety of different exhibits. The municipal art the Soviet atom bomb after 1945. The mu- ston Churchill and the nephew of the then king of England, George VI. The prisoners of the collection and the Pappermann Foundation seum also contains the only demonstration »Oflag (officer’s camp) IVc« were, however, only minimally impressed by the lovely atmosphere display exceptional works of Saxon paint- mine in Saxony which has dedicated itself to of the castle – they were mainly interested in escaping. About 300 documents of escape attempts ing of the 19th and 20th century including documenting the early history of industrial exist, some of them reveal an unbelievable creativity, including successful escape attempts which paintings of the Romantic artist Carl Gustav hard-coal mining. A special highlight of the today are part of this legendary military history. Secret radio rooms kept the prisoners in con- Carus and the Expressionist painter Conrad collection in Burgk is the loan of Siemens tact with their home country, tunnels were forced through the castle walls and even a glider was Felixmueller on Burgk Castle. The highlight Forum Munich of »Dorothea«: the world’s made. The »Escape Museum« of course looks at this aspect of the castle’s history in great detail. of the exhibition are the nine paintings by first electrical pit locomotive. Here technique But also the battlements with the mighty walls, the prince’s house, the Renaissance portal of the Otto Dix who taught at the art academy in freaks will be able to stand back in awe at this Trinity Church, the castle tower with the Welsh dome and the old stone bridge still impress visi- the neighboring city of Dresden from 1927 unique sight. tors today. Also incorporated in the castle are the Saxon State Music Academy and the »Colditz until 1933. The black contrast program to Castle European Youth Hostel«.

Burgk Castle Colditz Castle Städtische Sammlung Freital auf Schloss Burgk I Altburgk 61 I 01705 Freital | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 6 49 15 62 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Wilsdruff Exit, continue on Route Kultur/Museum - Gesellschaft Schloss Colditz e.V. I Schlossgasse 1 I 04680 Colditz | Phone +49 (0) 3 43 81 4 37 77 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Grimma B173 direction Kesselsdorf to Freital using Highway A17 Dresden-Gorbitz Exit, continue direction Freital Dresden – Chemnitz or Dresden – Tharandt to Freital-Postschappel regional bus traffic Dresden (RVD/ Exit, continue on Route B107 direction Colditz, then use castle signposting via Highway A4 Glauchau Exit, via Rochlitz to Colditz rail/bus from Leipzig main station with regional railroad to Grossbothen, continue Regionalverkehr Dresden), stop Freital Bus Terminal, Hopfenblüte, Am Dathepark or Burgk-Zschiedge — Free admission to the castle and the permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles by bus to Colditz via Leipzig main station by regional bus to Colditz — Free admission to the castle and the permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to the special exhibitions, with the exception of events. the special exhibitions, with the exception of events. — Colditz Castle European Youth Hostel (see page 59) 14 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The dining hall on the bel-étage (left) — The castle with the Baroque garden (right) — The corner cabinet of the Historic Green Vault (top) — The Small Castle Yard (bottom) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 15

The residence of art Palaces and mansions in Saxony Family

lmost eight hundred years of history feud are reflected in the Saxon residen- A tial castle which was not only the royal seat but also housed one of Europe’s n the event that a princess should be- elector, Augustus the Strong, who was pull- great art collections, the Dresden State Art get a child not with her infantile spouse ing the strings of this tragic court plot in Collections. The residential castle is part of I but rather with a secret lover, then the the background, was that the rivaling side- a museum complex of extraordinary Euro- European higher nobility of former times line Saxony-Merseburg died out with this sad pean significance in which the famous Green had no scruples. The illegitimate offspring of royal couple. In stark contrast to such nasty Vault Treasury Museum, the »Turkish Cham- the duchess Henriette Charlotte von Saxo- intrigues is the bright and cheerful Baroque ber«, the Armory, the Mint Cabinet and the ny-Merseburg is said to have been given to character of Delitzsch Castle today. The Copper Plate Engraving Cabinet – Germany’s a nanny after birth and then to have been pastel color of the castle, the once-popular oldest museum of graphic art – have found raised under another name. The child, how- residence of traveling Saxon princes in the a worthy home. The Great Castle Courtyard ever, died soon after an emergency baptism. middle of the Delitzsch lake district, attracts shows in an exemplary manner the artistic The pleasant side-effect for Saxon’s prince artistically minded visitors with its museum properties of the Sgraffito whose façades have and Baroque garden, especially during the an- been richly decorated using the ambitious nual castle festival. Inside the castle visitors scratchwork method. The visitor’s lobby of can marvel at the prestigious interior which the »Art Residence« is located in the Small despite the temporary use of the castle as a Castle Courtyard whose Renaissance architec- women’s penitentiary has still retained a great ture is overarched by a bold roof construction deal of its original appeal. which appears to be hovering above and is made of transparent plastic pillows. Close by another precious material protects a unique mural on an outer wall from the adverse ef- fects of time. 25,000 painted tiles made of Meissen porcelain form the Procession of Princes, a 102 meter long procession which depicts the rulers of the House of Wettin. On the other side of Saxony’s most famous mural is where the stable courtyard, a building with a colonnade which was already a tourist attraction of the city in the 16th century and which forms the backdrop of a romantic medieval Christmas market in December is located. The size and beauty of the castle can be best seen from the 100 meter high Haus- mannsturm tower with a platform affording visitors a fantastic panorama view of the Old Town and the Elbe valley below.

Delitzsch Castle Dresden Castle Barockschloss Delitzsch | Schlossstraße 31 I 04509 Delitzsch | Phone +49 (0) 3 42 02 6 72 37 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A9 Wiedemar Exit, follow the signposting Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden | Taschenberg 2 I 01067 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 49 14 20 00 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden Altstadt Exit, follow via Highway A14 Leipzig-Mitte/Delitzsch Exit Railroad line Leipzig-Dessau/Wittenberg to Delitzsch lower railroad station — Free admission to the castle and the permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR signposting direction Stadtzentrum, tram to Theaterplatz or Altmarkt stop — With the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS free admission to the Hausmannsturm tower (April to October). PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to the special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 16 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — Little Pheasant Castle (top) — Lighthouse (bottom) — The treasure chamber of Terra Mineralia (left) — The castle access (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 17

Treasures Palaces and mansions in Saxony of the Earth

lthough you will not find the house the Freiberg Mining Academy’s collec- famous philosopher’s stone here, tion of artefacts and mining documents from A you will find everything which will six centuries, thus rounding off the tour of make the heart of geologists and mineral col- these underground treasure chambers. The lectors beat faster. Freudenstein (Rock of Joy) focus on the treasures of the Earth’s crust in is an appropriate name for this castle because Freiberg is not without good reason because it houses a treasure of worldwide reputation the castle complex once protected the new which not only enchants the scientifically- silver mines from thieves and pillagers. Freu- minded public. The exhibition »Terra Min- denstein thus protected the natural wealth eralia« of the Freiberg Mining Academy is which was to turn Saxony into a booming the world’s largest private mineralogical col- country for centuries. lection. About 5,000 of the total of 80,000 exhibits from the collection of the Wella heir- ess Dr. Erika Pohl-Stroeher who was born in Saxony can be seen in this permanent loan exhibition which bears spectacular and impressively beautiful witness to the history of the Earth on five continents. The splendor Paradise in a of the exponents has been increased as the »Terra Mineralia« is being shown in a part of the castle which has been specifically re- nutshell furbished for this purpose. This is where the functional architecture of the third millennium merges with architectural structures structed and is now open to the public in all of its former glory. which have developed over 700 years provid- Originally erected in a confined space in the formerly highly modern ing a fitting stage for the crystals whose age chinoiserie style, it now houses a complete royal household in a small is measured in eons. The neighboring rooms format. Furniture, stoves and murals restored to their original state and a collection of stuffed birds are eye-catchers inside the building. While strolling along the garden outside, visitors can go back in time to the world of the courts of the 18th century. Even more picturesque nly a few people are allowed to enter because this soli- and scurrile are the jetty and the red-and-white brick lighthouse close taire amongst the German castles is simply too small for by which give testimony to the playful and decadent spirit of the O crowds. A walk through Little Pheasant Castle therefore times. This is where the noble people of landlocked Saxony dreamed remains an exclusive pleasure just as it was in the past. Embedded, to their dream of glorious sea battles which for want of a real fleet could the east of Moritzburg Castle in a gentle cultivated landscape, the only be carried out with extras and a great amount of imagination. At prestigious castle built by the Dresden Court in 1770 is the only late least Little Pheasant Castle offered its masters and mistresses a room Rococo castle remaining in Saxony. Thanks to a generous donation with a real »sea view« – this is also afforded to today’s visitors who are of an anonymous benefactor, the castle has been extensively recon- without royal blood in their veins.

Little Pheasant Castle Freudenstein Castle Schloss Moritzburg und Fasanenschlösschen | 01468 Moritzburg I Phone +49 (0) 3 52 07 87 30 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden-Wilder Mann Exit via Schloss Freudenstein | c/o Stadtmarketing Freiberg GmbH | Schlossplatz 6 I 09599 Freiberg | Phone +49 (0) 37 31 4 19 51 61 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4/A14 Highway A13 Radeburg Exit Rail/Bus from Dresden-Neustadt railway station by Radeburg-Großenhain bus to Moritzburg, historic narrow-gauge railway Radebeul/Ost – Radeburg line to Moritzburg — Free Siebenlehn/Nossen Ost Exit, continue via Route B101 direction Freiberg to downtown (Schlossplatz) via Route B173/B101 to downtown Freiberg railway route Dresden-Chemnitz-Hof to Freiberg railway station admission to the permanent exhibition in Moritzburg Castle with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to Pheasant Castle and special exhibitions, with the exception of events. — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. — Moritzburg Castle (see page 25) 18 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The Parkfront of the Castle (left) — The Wedding Room (right) — The town of Torgau with the castle and town church (top) — The castle courtyard (lower left) — The large spiral staircase (lower right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 19

Return of the Palaces and mansions in Saxony golden age

The spirit of reform

his town is a monument to Luther’s This is also where Luther’s wife Katharina sible staircase« of the great architect Konrad reform spirit. In Torgau, the spiritual von Bora died and was buried in St. Mary’s Krebs supports itself without the aid of any T center of the German Reformation, Church. The »Torgau Museum Route« leads central pillar. In former times Hartenfels Cas- ulldozed into oblivion – with these used as a restaurant. A semantic highlight of Hartenfels Castle is the most significant build- visitors up the hill to the castle and the castle tle was considered to be a »modern residen- last words the village of Güldengossa this stroke of luck of the post-reunification ing of the townscape, an outstanding mas- church, the first Protestant church to be built tial castle« to which an innovative elevator B and its manor-house would almost era is the fact that a trader in precious met- terpiece in one of Germany’s most beautiful in Europe whose design was based on an idea for lowering the drinks stored in the bottle have disappeared into the maelstrom of his- als has now opened his office in the castle Renaissance towns. This is where the »Torgau of Luther and which was personally conse- tower pays tribute – this contraption would tory. With many neighboring communities called »Güldengossa« (gülden is German for Articles« laid the foundation for the Augs- crated by the great reformer. Today the castle provide the nobles who were wining and din- falling victim to the voracity of the open-pit »golden«). But earlier German history too burg Confession, where the first Protestant courtyard is the central square where cultural ing to the sound of clinking glasses with fresh mines of the Leipzig lowland indentation, fate had also foreseen a lasting place in the an- songbook was published, and where the Prot- events in Torgau are held. It is dominated by supplies. however had something else in store for the nals of history for the manor-house: In Octo- estant rulers signed the »Alliance of Torgau«. the Great Wendelstein Staircase: This »impos- old knight’s estate. And although it had just ber of the year 1813 Güldengossa was at the been destined to a certain death, years after center of European power politics when one the reunification of Germany the castle ex- of the bloodiest battles of all times left its perienced a resurrection which sounds like a mark here. In the Battle of the Nations near fairy tale. The castle of Güldengossa was first Leipzig more than half a million soldiers of mentioned in the year 1285. Seven hundred the Napoleonic army stood against the allied years later it was given a second chance and it enemy, who eventually defeated the French found a buyer who was to lovingly restore the emperor devastatingly. Güldengossa Castle late-Baroque show-piece, the historic network was then used as a military hospital – a sol- of paths and the original condition of the gar- diers’ grave serves as a reminder of the many dens and thus give the exceptionally beautiful soldiers who sacrificed their life for Germa- park back its former charm. The old orang- ny’s freedom during those three days of bitter erie has also been restored and is now being combat.

GÜldengossa Castle Hartenfels Castle Schloss Güldengossa | Schulstraße 11 I 04463 Güldengossa | Phone +49 (0) 3 42 97 9 86 90 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A38 Leipzig-Südost Exit, continue on Route Schloss Hartenfels | Schlossstraße 27 I 04860 Torgau | Phone +49 (0) 34 21 7 01 40 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A13 Duben Exit, continue via Route B87 to Torgau via A14 Mutz- S242 and K7923 to Güldengossa, railroad/bus from downtown Leipzig/Main station, hourly busservice to the castle — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or schen Exit, continue via Route S38 to Wermsdorf, then via Route S24 to Torgau via A14 Leipzig-Nordost Exit, continue via Route B87 to Torgau, railroad route Leipzig-Cottbus to Torgau — Free admission to castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 20 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The castle with the moat and the side buildings — The castle with outer bailey and castle pond (top) — The museum (bottom) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 21

Love at Palaces and mansions in Saxony first sight

isitors cannot but fall in love with the charm of this castle to Fräulein von Taube, who once refused to marry the ugly burgrave of the south of Chemnitz which hardly anyone will want to call a Rabenstein, watching over them. However, she had to pay the price as V »castle«. This white Renaissance jewel is poised almost weight- she was immured alive in the castle tower by her own father. The other lessly above the waters of Würschnitz river which fills the castle moat. rooms which have been reconstructed according to old handcraft tra- The unique sweeping ogee arch roof looks much too ornate and the dition display regional and international artwork. The castle grounds picturesque view too friendly to appear splendid or even well-fortified. include a friendly hotel and numerous studios surrounded by a golf The wedding room is especially popular among those who are in love course and riding stables. and who want to take their marriage vows with the good spirit of

A huntsman’s fortune

teps for riders would provide their cession here at the foot of castle hill – from knightly users with a maximum Classicism to Renaissance and back to the S amount of comfort. Especially im- Gothic times. Today a museum dedicated pressive is the winding stairway on Klip- to the history of the castle and the town is penstein Castle in Radeberg. With its flat housed in Klippenstein Castle. In the year wide steps it would allow the noble hunters 2012 the reconstructed castle located close to comfortably reach their saddle and thus to the Radeberg Export Brewery, which in save them from having to carry their weap- former times brewed the favorite drink of the ons and armor by foot. This well-fortified Saxon kings and is famous beyond the bor- and romantic castle from the 13th century ders of Saxony, will once again appear in its was converted into a hunting lodge by the former shining glory. prince-elector Moritz in the middle of the 16th century. Since then the historical construction phases have merged in rapid suc-

Klaffenbach Castle Klippenstein Castle Wasserschloß Klaffenbach | Wasserschloßweg 6 | 09123 Chemnitz | Phone +49 (0) 3 71 26 63 50 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A72 Stollberg Exit to Neukirchen, Museum Schloss Klippenstein | Schloßstraße 6 | 01454 Radeberg | Phone +49 (0) 35 28 44 26 00 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US über A4 Highway A4 Ottendorf or Pulsnitz from there follow castle signposting City-Railroad from Chemnitz main station to Klaffenbach/Neukrichen railroad station — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS Exit, continue towards Radeberg via Route B6 from Dresden direction Bautzen to Radeberg — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 22 — Krobnitz Castle (left page) — The gate house (left) — The castle with the Baroque garden (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 23

Inspiration for a Palaces and mansions in Saxony master builder

lthough many a Saxon countryside has its own beauty, hard- tle chapel remain a feast for visitor’s eyes even many centuries after ly any would be able to sing its own praises because it had their creation. Lauenstein Castle really comes to life whenever the A been marked so highly with the favor of a king. King Johann falconry presents its birds of prey. We must not, however, forget the of Saxony got carried away when he called the valley of the river town’s greatest son, George Bähr. This exceptional architect who built Müglitz, over which Lauenstein Castle rises, Saxony’s loveliest valley. the world-famous Church of Our Lady in Dresden was born in the Visitors may judge this for themselves. The fact of the matter is, how- nearby village of Fürstenwalde in 1666, and he spent his childhood ever, that this castle perched on a mighty cliff is worth a visit of its and youth in Lauenstein. Perhaps it was the grand architecture of the fabulous surroundings independently. Instead of a fortified medieval local castle which profoundly affected the later career of this carpenter castle, in the 16th century a spacious residential castle was erected from the Ore Mountains. Or perhaps it was the famous sandstone here with lavish furnishings which testify to the artistic-mindedness altar and the Bünau epitaph of the town church? Filigree »architec- of its owners and which today houses the Museum of the East Ore ture« of a completely different kind can be found only a few kilo- Mountains. The murals in the Bird Hall, the splendidly arched stuc- meters away from Lauenstein – in Glashütte where Germany’s finest coed ceiling of the Coat-of-Arms Hall, and the portraits in the cas- watches are made. Prussia in Saxony

robnitz Castle appears almost bi- thereby carrying the contemporary stony dilapidated despite the fact that it continued zarre as it lies there in the fertile spirit of the seat of power in Berlin to the to be used. Then between 2002 and 2008 the K Lusatian hill country. The promi- then Prussian province of Lower Silesia. At castle, estate and park underwent extensive nent castle appears somewhat too austere a first glance the castle which is surrounded reconstruction work. Today, 700 years after it and sublime for the surrounding green idyll. by a large landscape park reveals something was first mentioned, Krobnitz has become a The discrepancy between the angular archi- of the rootedness of the count in his working center of culture, art and education which is tectural shape and the gentle countryside has environment as many of its elements are a renowned beyond the region and whose exits reasons however. The originally Baroque copy of the architecture of the Prussian Min- hibitions and concerts fill the white walls of manor-house which was built in the middle istry of War. The estate remained the prop- the former ministerial retirement home with of the 18th century was purchased in 1873 by erty of the family until the end of the Sec- renewed life. the Prussian Minister of War, Albrecht Emil ond World War. After the noble family was Theodor Count von Roon. The new owner dispossessed in the year 1945, Krobnitz was had the manor rebuilt in a neo-Classicist style, used to house refugees whereupon it became

Krobnitz Castle Lauenstein Castle Schloss Krobnitz | Am Friedenstal 5 | 02894 Reichenbach | Phone +49 (0) 3 58 28 8 87 00 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Nieder-Seifersdorf Exit, direction Reichenbach/ Osterzgebirgsmuseum Schloss Lauenstein I 01778 Lauenstein | Phone +49 (0) 3 50 54 2 54 02 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A17 Bad Gottleuba Exit, direction Geising/ OL, then follow castle signposting via Route B6 direction Reichenbach, continue direction Niesky, then follow castle signposting — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR Lauenstein via Route S178 to Lauenstein, suburban fast train Dresden – Schöna to Heidenau, then continue with the »Müglitztalbahn« railroad to Lauenstein — Free admission to the castle and permanent PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 24 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The castle palace (top) — The lobby (bottom) — The Castle with the central garden www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 25

Fountains Palaces and mansions in Saxony of The whole fortune world in wood ichtenwalde is so very different from Baroque to Rococo, the terraced park how- other Saxon castles because it is sur- ever never completely reveals itself to the visi- L rounded by a network of fountains. tor’s eyes which are time and again directed One hundred of these fountain complexes to playful details such as antique amphoras, are situated throughout the Baroque garden statues and circular flower beds and from the with more than 400 individual fountains con- artificial garden itself to the real nature in the nected by an intricate circulating system. Visi- Zschopau valley below which is now a natu- tors can experience a symphony of rustling ral preserve. The castle itself houses several leaves, splashing water and the sweet scent ethnological collections which focus on the of flowers in the spring. It was not without topic of »Encounters of Cultures« featuring good reason that Lichtenwalde was chosen as the civilizations of Asia and Africa. There is one of Germany’s most beautiful parks. Ap- also a silhouette museum with filigree two- proaching the castle from the park’s avenue, dimensional valuables which visitors should one is left almost speechless by the impres- definitely not miss out on – it is one of only sive layout of this peaceful green paradise. a few of its kind in Germany. While aptly illustrating the transition from

onor to whom honor is due. But rently presents more than 550 exhibits from objects and masterpieces of European wood in this cultural center inspired by around the world. Thanks to Daetz’s enthusi- carving. On five floors which are completely H an artistic mind the actual castle asm for the great variety of wood sculptures, without barriers visitors can view works of art only plays a secondary role. Of greater sig- we are able to experience unique treasures of from all continents. Continually alternating nificance for Lichtenstein is the castle palace the highest artistic and handcraft quality from special exhibitions are additional reasons why with its fascinating »inhabitants«. The »Center around the world. Together with the town of people should visit the »Daetz Center« which for International Wood Sculpture« features Lichtenstein, the Free State of Saxony and the is only a half hour’s drive from Chemnitz. the world’s largest private wood sculpture Daetz Foundation, an exhibition has been For those who would like to try and carve collection. Its exponents are an enchanting organized which represents a window to the wood themselves, workshops with profession- contrast to the architectural austerity of the world and its myths. The gods of remote civi- al wood carvers teach visitors the art of crea- palace and its modern buildings. Thanks to lizations come to life here – a carriage, made tive wood carving. the commitment of its founder, Peter Daetz, of a hippopotamuses’ tooth, which is being the »Masterpieces in Wood« exhibition cur- pulled by dragons competes with African cult

Lichtenstein Palace Lichtenwalde Castle and Park Daetz-Centrum Lichtenstein GmbH | Schlossallee 2 | 09350 Lichtenstein | Phone +49 (0) 3 72 04 58 58 58 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Hohenstein-Ernstthal Exit, then Schloss & Park Lichtenwalde | Schlossallee 1 | 09577 Niederwiesa | Phone +49 (0) 3 72 06 88 73 80 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A72/A4 Frankenberg Exit, follow signposting to Daetz-Centrum via Highway A72 Hartenstein Exit, then follow signposting to Daetz-Centrum via Route B173 from Chemnitz or Zwickau to Lichtenstein — Free admission to the castle then follow Route B169 direction Chemnitz to Lichtenwalde — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. exhibitions, with the exception of events. 26 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The palace (top) — The Elbe river palaces (bottom) — Moritzburg Castle (top right) — The Stone Hall (bottom right) 27 Palaces and mansions in Saxony

A mansion for everybody

lanked by the Albrechtsberg and who was famous throughout Germany, was a today, for Lingner bequeathed his possession Eckberg palaces, the Lingner Pal- first-class genius at marketing and even was to the city of Dresden for all time under the F ace – which orignally was called Villa able to get Giacomo Puccini to dedicate an clear condition that it was never to be sold Treasure »Stockhausen« – is the middle of the three ode to his mouthwash. Presumably he earned and that all citizens should have access to it. Dresden castles by the Elbe. In 1906 it came well from it, as Lingner was unbelievably rich. Today it has one of the most beautiful beer island into the possession of somebody who was lit- The king of Odol used his assets for his per- gardens in Saxony, from which you have a erally a legend in his own lifetime: Karl August sonal building projects; his house had its own breathtaking view of the Elbe Valley. There he certainly most beautiful Saxon ritzburg Castle today. The »Feather Room« Lingner, manufacturer of the internationally- private funicular railway to the banks of the you can drink the cheapest lemonade in the moated castle is named after Duke won even a European Cultural Heritage renowned mouthwash »Odol«, initiator of the Elbe and an expensive organ from which mu- city, for Lingner who was always a perfection- T Moritz, who built a hunting lodge in Award. Far more than one million colorful world’s first baby clinic, philanthropist, and sic could be heard in all the rooms. But Ling- ist, wrote in his will that on his property there 1542 near to his residence in Dresden. In 1723 feathers were made into a unique piece of art, founder of the Dresden Hygiene Museum. ner never forgot the welfare of the common should always be a drink available which eve- Augustus the Strong commissioned Matthäus the magnificent bed of Augustus the Strong. The manufacturer of the popular mouthwash, man. His philanthropic legacy is still evident rybody could afford. Daniel Pöppelmann, architect of the Dresden Just as unique is the lavishly painted gold Zwinger, with the conversion of the build- leather tapestry on the walls of the electoral ing to provide an appropriate and magnifi- refuge. And the visitor to Moritzburg must cent setting for his glittering parties. This re- by no means miss a look at the Little Pheas- sulted in a Baroque jewel with four towers in ant Castle that can be reached in just a few ochre and white, whose splendor is mirrored minutes on foot or by horse-drawn coach. in the artificial lake surrounding the castle. Even today, Moritzburg has not lost much of The stately home was used as a magical back- its cultural importance that can be felt every drop in the legendary fairy-tale film »Three year at the »Moritzburg Festival of Chamber Wishes for Cinderella«. One of the most out- Music« and the autumnal Stallions’ Parade standing collections of hunting trophies in in the former royal stud farm outside the Europe is not the only big treasure of Mo- castle gates.

Lingner Palace Moritzburg Castle Förderverein Lingnerschloss e.V. | Bautzner Straße 132 | 01099 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 6 46 53 82 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden-Hellerau Exit direction city Schloss Moritzburg und Fasanenschlösschen | 01468 Moritzburg I Phone +49 (0) 3 52 07 87 30 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden-Wilder Mann Exit, center, at Albertplatz square follow Route B6 direction Bautzen — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special Highway A13 Radeburg Exit, rail/bus from Dresden-Neustadt railway station by bus direction Radeburg-Grossenhain to Moritzburg, historical narrow-gauge train Radebeul/Ost – Radeburg to Moritzburg — Free exhibitions, with the exception of events. admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. — Little Pheasant Castle (see page 14) 28 Schlösser in Sachsen — Nossen Castle (left) — The Mountain Palace www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 29 Palaces and mansions in Saxony Exotic beauty

lector Augustus the Strong, ruler the architecture of the Far East amalgamate ures as does the famous 250-year-old Japanese with his voracious appetite for the with the Baroque style. The best way to ap- camellia. This remarkable ornamental tree is E female sex, once acquired the castle proach the pleasure palace with its distinctive so valuable that it has been given a home all for his favorite Anna Constantia Countess pagoda roofs is on an Elbe river steamboat, on its own. In the castle itself, the Museum von Cosel, who immediately began with its since also the palace’s former inhabitants for Crafts and Arts re-opens in spring after Baroque conversion. When, for »various« rea- prefered the waterway to travelling over land the winter break, the Castle Musem shows sons, Saxony’s best-known mistress fell out of and often indulged in pleasure rides on the a permanent exhibition telling of the details favor, the Elector himself had the hillside and Elbe river in fancifully designed gondolas. in the eventful history of this former royal waterside palaces erected according to plans The English, Dutch and Chinese gardens on Saxon summer residence that never wanted of the famous architect of the Baroque, Mat- the extensive garden grounds urge the visitor to be anything other than a highly noble thäus Daniel Pöppelmann. The grand castle to take a stroll. The Orangery and the Palm- »pleasure castle« far from all adversities of po- and park grounds directly situated on the tree Greenhouse that has been reconstructed litical everyday life in the residential city of banks of the Elbe river are considered a per- in old splendor attract those who take a bo- Dresden. Chronicles fect example of the chinoise style, that has tanical interest to appraise their exotic treas- of nobility

hanging fortunes create particu- sentences. Also Countess Cosel, the famous larly charming buildings. This is mistress of excessive Saxon ruler Augustus C especially true for Nossen Castle. the Strong, is part of Nossen Castle’s history. The medieval knights’ castle that previously In 1716, the critically sick mistress had been stood on this site was first mentioned in attended to at this place for a month before 1185 in connection with a legal dispute of she was taken to Stolpen Castle where she was the owners, the lords of Nuzzin. Elector Au- to die in solitude only 49 years later. Today, gustus started converting the old walls into Nossen Castle accommodates a unique his- a Renaissance hunting lodge in 1554. This torical library of 6,000 volumes, whose leath- gave the architecture of what used to be a er-bound treasures attract researchers from murky fortification a certain degree of ease. far afield. Visitors who take an interest in the The spirit of that European era of cultural genealogy of Saxon nobility may visit the ex- dawn can still be sensed today. Former pris- hibition rooms to embark on an exciting trip on cells and authentic replicas of medieval back in time through the chronicles of the torture instruments, however, are proof of blue-blooded ancestry that ruled the coun- the dark side of this place where, for quite try between Vogtland and Lusatia for many some time, a court pronounced its relentless centuries.

Nossen Castle Pillnitz Castle & Park Schloss Nossen | Am Schloss 3 | 01683 Nossen | Phone +49 (0) 3 52 42 5 04 30 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Nossen-Nord Exit Highway A4 Nossen-Ost Exit Schlösser und Gärten Dresden | Geschäftsstelle Schloss & Park Pillnitz | August-Böckstiegel-Straße 2 | 01326 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 2 61 32 60 | [email protected] — HOW or Siebenlehn Exit, railway from Dresden, Meissen, Döbeln, Leipzig direction Nossen, bus from Meissen, Freiberg, Döbeln, Dresden direction — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden-Hellerau Exit or Dresden-Altstadt Exit, Highway A17 Pirna Exit, continue direction Radeberg and follow signposting, Elbe river steamboats to Pillnitz — Free admission to castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. the Castle Museum, Arts and Crafts Museum and Palmtree Greenhouse with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 30 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The Castle with Its Court of Honour (top) — The Mirror Room (bottom) — The Large Court Kitchen (top) — The Castle on the Zwickauer Mulde River(bottom) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 31

Darkness Palaces and mansions in Saxony and light

n the 10th century, this fortress was part of the defense of the hard-won I German victory over the West Slavs. Today, more than a millennium later, the Ro- chlitz towers »Light Jupe« and »Dark Jupe« still rise over the Zwickauer Mulde and have the castle appear like a fortified cathedral. Whoever comes to visit this area can still feel the historic turbulence which was part of the German settlement drive to the east during the High Middle Ages. Later emperors, kings and electors held court here. Wars and sieges were also part of the history of the outpost above the Zwickauer Mulde – even today it still bears the scars of shots from the Thirty Years’ War. However, there is also a brighter The world side to the history of Rochlitz Castle. Dedo von Groitzsch had the impenetrable forests cleared and encouraged the settlement of of the chambermaids the lands around Rochlitz, while Margrave Wilhelm the One-eyed and later the Elec- tors Ernst and Albrecht had the defense castle rebuilt as a residential palace. Duchess here the Lausitz mountains come is a sparkling treasure trove of late Baroque master chef and the chambermaids try out Elisabeth of Saxony dedicated herself to the to an end, you can find the only and early Classical room design. The Chinese extraordinary dishes in the historic dining Reformation and attempted to be a negotia- W manor house in Saxony which Room, the Pompeii Room, Bird Room, Pea- room, which themselves show how to com- tor between the two sides in the Schmalkaldic has remained intact. Having been compre- cock Room, Hunting Room and the painted bine original Lusatian delicacies with Medi- War (1546-1547). Each generation of occupi- hensively restored, Rammenau Castle stands walls around the staircase all go to show the in- terranean flair. ers of the palace left their stamp on it, and out as a masterpiece of Saxon country Ba- genuity of the cultured country nobles. Even inside there are numerous architectural gems roque. After the building of the mansion had today you can hear music in the imposing waiting to be discovered. Anybody who likes ruined the first owner, the von Hoffmann Mirror Room. Perhaps the special genius, to be transported back to long past times will family obtained the grand estate by auction. evident in all the corners of the palace, was enjoy the Gothic windows, ornamented cru- Their most famous scion was Johann Cen- the encouragement which had set the greatest ciform vaults, defensive passages, dungeons, turius von Hoffmann, Imperial Count von son on the locality on his path through life, the large court kitchen and the torture cham- Hoffmannsegg, botanist and highly-respected for Johann Gottlieb Fichte, one of the lead- ber. A special attraction of Rochlitz Castle is connoisseur of insects; a stroke of luck for ing philosophers of his age, was born in Ram- the exhibition »Living Procession of Princes«, Saxon science, as the new owner was to give a menau in 1762. The visitor can find varied which with its magnificent costumes brings new home to intellectual creativity and educa- and aesthetic abundance not only in the inte- back to life those immortalised in the famous tion in Rammenau. The interior of the palace rior decoration, but also by the cuisine. The wall picture in Dresden.

Rammenau Castle Rochlitz Castle Barockschloss Rammenau | Am Schloss 4 | 01877 Rammenau | Phone +49 (0) 35 94 70 35 59 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Burkau Exit direction Ram- Schloss Rochlitz | Sörnziger Weg 1 | 09306 Rochlitz | Phone +49 (0) 37 37 49 23 10 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Döbeln-Nord Exit, continue via Routes B169 menau, Route B6 from Dresden to Bischofswerda, then continue direction Kamenz to Rammenau — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL and B175, Highway A4 Chemnitz-Ost Exit, continue via Route B107, railway/bus from Geithain, Narsdorf, Mittweida, Erlau by bus to Rochlitz — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 32 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The Castle with manor (top) — The Knights’ Hall (bottom) — Ascent to the Castle www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 33

The short dream Palaces and mansions in Saxony of freedom

Crooks and crannies

hen at dusk the moon rises be- not be repaid, Johann Friedrich’s successor it is not only the castle and the magnificent hoever loves the magic of life the herbal liquor cellar, dark dungeons, the hind the towers of the St. Geor- August began to build the current hunting »farmers’ Baroque« of its church which makes should visit Schlettau Castle Knight’s Hall, and come to see spinning W gen Church and the castle, when lodge in 1555. Later it functioned as a county Schwarzenberg a worthwhile destination for a W with their children. This small wheels in operation, or a gallery of paintings torches and lanterns illuminate the path up court, with its watchtower as a secure jail. The day out. A hopeful but bitter episode in Ger- 14th century palace, which had to watch over from the Ore Mountains in the forest room to the castle and the cacophony of minstrels visitor is attracted to the castle not only by man history also makes the town especially the historic salt road near Annaberg, has with its animal trophies. Even the medieval and traveling folk echo through the alleys of the school of folk art but also by the mu- interesting: Immediately after the Second been a manor house, abbot’s residence, hunt- corridors with their corners and bays offer the old town, that is when Schwarzenberg re- seum, which devotes as much space to the World War the inhabitants waited in vain for ing lodge, and cotton mill in its time. The the visitor »intelligent« entertainment: ghost veals its entire magic. The origins of the cas- special Ore Mountains craft of lace-making six weeks for the arrival of occupation forces, interior of this curiosity is accordingly color- nights take place often here, as do jousting tle and its unusual wooden inner structures as to metalworking which is so important and dreamt of being able to decide their own ful and full of crooks and crannies, with its events and monks’ banquets. Because of the have been lost during its 850-year history. for the region. Children can enjoy a colorful lives in the »Free Republic of Schwarzenberg.« picturesque mixture of styles: Gothic, Renais- careful redevelopment of the old walls it is Founded in 1150, it was first documented knight’s world in the creativity section and An illusion, which would all too quickly sance, Baroque and neo-Gothic – magical mo- no surprise that the magical Schlettau Castle in 1282. After the loan to the impoverished can develop new ideas in the tower, while the disappear. ments are normal in this ambitious fox’s den. has, since 2005, been designated as especially castle lords from the Saxon Elector Duke Jo- wind carries the tunes from the music school As if in a set of pictures you can pass through suitable for family outings. hann Friedrich had become due and could over the walls and across the landscape. But

Schlettau Castle Schwarzenberg Castle Förderverein Schloß Schlettau e.V. | Schlossplatz 8 | 09487 Schlettau | Phone +49 (0) 37 33 6 60 19 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A72 Stollberg-West Exit, direction Schloss Schwarzenberg | Museum der Stadt Schwarzenberg | Obere Schlossstraße 36 | 08340 Schwarzenberg | Phone +49 (0) 37 74 2 33 89 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway Annaberg-Buchholz via Zwönitz to Scheibenberg, then via Route B101 to Schlettau — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession A72 Stollberg-Süd Exit, then follow Route B169 to Aue, then Route B101 to Schwarzenberg, then follow signposting — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 34 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The Belvedere (top) — The castle grounds (bottom) — Weesenstein Castle (right) — Bildbeschreibung (oben) — Bildbeschreibung (unten) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 35

A bubbly Palaces and mansions in Saxony pleasure

ackerbarth sounds like the name Castle, which experienced many a euphoric from a fairy tale. And what party of the Saxon court, has since then been W awaits the visitor at the foot of a by-word for elegant wines and Saxon joie de the vineyard in Radebeul truly seems legen- vivre, and now presents the 800-year-old tra- dary: the unique ensemble of a stately home dition of wine-growing in Saxony in its most and a belvedere, Baroque gardens and a mod- beautiful form. A bubbly pleasure is the ern factory for making wine and sparkling sparkling wine from the Wackerbarth vint- wine in the middle of the lovely landscape ners and has been produced for almost 200 of Saxony’s Elbe valley. A real little jewel years. This second-oldest sparkling wine pro- built between 1727 and 1729 by Count Au- ducer in Germany uses only its own grapes, gust Christoph Count von Wackerbarth as which ferment traditionally in the bottle to his retirement residence called »Wackerbarths produce a fine and fruity specialty. Visitors Ruh«. With all this pomp, the Count was can themselves try the quality of the Saxon not alone for long: even Augustus the Strong State Winery in the transparent factory, feast The pearl treasured the charming atmosphere and the on fine food and take home a drop of the delicacy maturing in the barrels. Wackerbarth fine stuff. in Saxony’s crown

ike a pearl, Weesenstein grew layer with their wall coverings can be found one by layer. The castle, which has stood floor below the cellar. The »Monk’s Way« L over the Müglitz Valley for nearly is said to be haunted by the lost ghost of 700 years, has been often partly demolished a former palace resident. Perhaps it is the and rebuilt according to prevailing contem- illusion-filled façade paintings which pre- porary tastes so that it has varied stylistic vent him from finding peace in this confu- elements from the Gothic to the Classical sion – in this unusual palace even the win- periods. Thus did a curiosity among Saxon dows can often be only an illusion, for every palaces arise, it grew downwards into the third is only a painting. In short: Whoever valley over the centuries, and occasionally enjoys mazes and the unexpected will find was too much for its owners. Here, in his adventure enough in the peculiar residence favourite residence, the gifted Prince Johann of King Johann. Afterwards a walk in the pal- worked on his translation of Dante’s Divine ace park, a visit to the restaurant »Königliche Comedy before he became king of Saxony. Schlossküche« or a tankard of Weesenstein Today visitors can discover his stairwell with Schlossbräu – a traditional beer which origi- its nooks and crannies; on the fifth floor they nated in the 16th century – can guarantee the come across a horse’s stable while the noble chance to recover. chambers from the 18th and 19th centuries

Wackerbarth Castle Weesenstein Castle Sächsisches Staatsweingut GmbH | Schloss Wackerbarth | Wackerbarthstraße 1 | 01445 Radebeul | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 8 95 50 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Schloss Weesenstein | Am Schlossberg 1 | 01809 Müglitztal | Phone +49 (0) 3 50 27 62 60 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A17 Pirna Exit, direction Glashütte Dresden-Neustadt Exit direction Radebeul suburban fast train direction Meissen to Radebeul West — Concession tickets to daily guided tours with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. along Route B172 to Heidenau or Pirna, the direction Altenberg, suburban fast train Dresden-Schöna to Heidenau, then continue on the »Müglitztalbahn« railroad to Weesenstein, bus Heidenau-Glashütte, get off in Weesenstein — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 36 Palaces and mansions in Saxony — The Town of Zschopau with its castle (left) — The Motorcycle Exhibition (right) — The Wall Pavilion www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 37 A safe Palaces and mansions in Saxony harbor

he Bohemian Route used to link the harbor for merchants from all directions. To- especially devoted to the industrial history trading centre of Leipzig with the roy- day only »Fat Henry«, a more than 30-meter- of the region. Mainly bikers will be thrilled T al residence of Prague. Goods from high residential watchtower with meter-thick by the many two-wheeled treasures from the all corners of the continent were transported walls, is a reminder of the once defiant for- DKW and MZ motorbike works that can be along this trading route including the silver tification. In the middle of the 16th century admired at Wildeck Castle today, for Zscho- from the Ore Mountains which made its way Wildeck was converted by order of Duke Mo- pau used to be the center of Saxon motorcy- from here to the European treasuries. No ritz of Saxony into a far less martial hunting cle manufacture in the 20th century. A book- wonder that it needed protection. Therefore, castle and from the 17th to the early 20th printing museum, a collection of historical Wildeck Castle, built on the foundations of century the Higher Forestry and Game-keep- foundry moulds and coin dies and a fasci- 12th-century fortifications watched over the ing Authorities were accommodated there. nating collection of minerals should be rea- Zschopau river passage by night and by day Today, the white Renaissance castle that can son enough to pay respect to this dominant and made the town of the same name a safe be seen from afar, houses several museums building.

Playground of the nymphs Zwinger, or outer ward, is actually just the free space between the in- A ner and outer ring of the city walls. In Dresden, the capital of Saxony, the most splendid outer ward in the world was created for the prestigious festivities of the European aristocracy in the early 18th century. Pushed on by the architectural passion of Augustus the Strong, the originally simple plans for a planned site. In the Zwinger today, visitors new orangery suddenly gained in extent and find the museums of the Dresden State Art size. These works of arts for the court were Collections, including the Porcelain Collec- created by architectural genius Matthäus Dan- tion and the Old Masters Picture Gallery. In iel Pöppelmann and master sculptor Balthasar the summer, the Zwinger forms an atmos- Permoser. Plans for the construction of an pheric backdrop to a series of open-air events, adjoining palace were never realized, but in while the harder-to-find »Nymph Baths« with the 19th century Gottfried Semper’s picture its cheerful fountains satisfies the visitor’s gallery and opera house were built on the need for quiet.

Wildeck Castle Dresdner Zwinger Schloss Wildeck | Schloss Wildeck 1 | 09405 Zschopau | Phone +49 (0) 37 25 28 71 70 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Chemnitz-Nord Exit, follow Route B95 to Chemnitz and via Schlösser und Gärten Dresden | Geschäftsstelle Zwinger, Brühlsche Terrasse, Stallhof, Theaterplatz | 01067 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 4 38 37 03 12 | [email protected] B174 to Zschopau — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden Altstadt Exit, following signposting towards the city center, tram to tramstops Theaterplatz or Postplatz A land behind fortifications

Castles and fortresses in Saxony Prosperity thrives behind thick walls: almost all the strategically important points of Saxony are crowned by solid fortifications. Laid out in deep valleys like a necklace of pearls or alone on a throne of a sandstone rock as the highest fortress in Germany, there are stories or legends about almost every one of them, which make Saxony’s history one of the most vivid in Europe. 40 Castles and fortresses in Saxony — The Fortress with Brühl’s Terrace and Church of Our Lady — The castle layout (top) — The castle chapel (bottom) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 41

The balcony of Europe

orn out of courtly glamor, witness in Saxony and fortresses Castles to feuds and military campaigns, the B remnants of the fortress of Dresden lie hidden between the Albertinum and the Art Academy. Strongly-built walls and the tiled gateway surround the visitor right where, in 1707, Johann Friedrich Böttger first produced European porcelain in his laboratory deep below the »Jungfernbastei« bastion. As the fortress by that time had become militari- ly insignificant, it could not prevent the Prus- sians pillaging and plundering the Saxon capital during the Seven Year War. When it came to pomp and splendor the rulers of Saxony A picturebook of showed themselves to be more capable than when it came to working with their troops or choosing military allies. Above the darkness the Middle Ages of the fortress gun turrets is Brühl’s Terrace, which was created for the influential court favourite Heinrich von Brühl. This Dresden he lords of Gnandstein castle came from an old Meissen family of nobles, the family landmark, originally a defensive structure, was von Einsiedel. The name was appropriate for their position for the family von Ein- turned into a place where people could stroll T siedel (Einsiedel means »hermit«) occupied Gnandstein continually from the late 14th and was named »The Balcony of Europe« be- century until the end of the Second World War, without once having had to hand the key over cause here people from all over the world to someone else. Maybe that’s the reason why it is one of the German castles which can in- met. The panoramic view of the Elbe and the voke the spirit of long-gone ages, despite extensive reconstruction and extensions. Watchtower, white steamboats is an essential part of any outer courtyard, battlements and defensive walls: the fortress above the small river Wyhra is visit to Dresden. The Dolphin Fountains take a dream come true for all those who are fascinated by the Medieval period. Climbing the us back to the time of the Imperial Count watchtower, which was the place of last refuge for the mountain’s inhabitants in wartime, or Brühl – the Albertinum with its Gallery of when visiting the late Gothic chapel you can feel as if you have been whisked back to those New Masters, the Saxon Art Academy with unsettled times in which Saxony was in the hands of armoured warriors. Furthermore, there is its distinctive domed-roof which can be seen an old legend befitting the Medieval aura of Gnandstein, that there is hidden treasure waiting from afar and the countless monuments and to be found on on the grounds of the fortress. Visitors to the romantic defence structure are statues. These are all evidence of the pride still able to go home feeling enriched without having discovered gold or precious gems, as the and the artistic taste of Dresden’s bourgeoi- exhibition of the Gross Collection allows them and other visitors to the castle to admire the sie. 400 precious exhibits collected over seven centuries.

Dresden Fortress Gnandstein Castle Schlösser und Gärten Dresden | Geschäftsstelle Zwinger, Brühlsche Terrasse, Stallhof, Theaterplatz I 01067 Dresden I Phone +49 (0) 3 51 4 38 37 03 20 I [email protected] Burg Gnandstein | Burgstraße 3 | 04655 Kohren-Sahlis | Phone +49 (0) 3 43 44 6 13 09 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 to Chemnitz Highway Junction, then — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden Altstadt Exit, following signposting towards the city center, tram to tramstops Theaterplatz or the Synagogue — Free admission to the fortress and permanent exhibi- follow Highway A72 direction Leipzig: Niederfrohna Exit, along route B95 direction Leipzig: follow signposting — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles tion with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 42 Castles and fortresses in Saxony — Königstein hill with fortress (top) — Frederick’s Castle (bottom) — The castle grounds www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 43 A dream of a knight’s castle Castles and fortresses in Saxony and fortresses Castles

View from

avelin, casemate or battery – those arsenals, the cellar of Magdalena’s Castle and the top wanting to study fortress con- of course the spring house with the deepest R struction of the early modern era well in Saxony (152.5 m) and then to enjoy will find they have chosen well to visit the a culinary journey through time in the res- 23.5-acre rocky plateau of Königstein, al- taurant »In den Kasematten«. A panorama though in this fortress shots were only ever elevator carries visitors effortlessly to the top fired as part of military exercises. The rock of the plateau of the walled table mountain, was also a notorious state prison, mostly for allowing superb views over the Elbe Sand- prominent members of society. Johann Frie- stone Mountains and Saxon Switzerland drich Böttger, the alchemist and one of the National Park. inventors of porcelain, served a sentence here »for his own safety«, or rather so that the oth- aftsmen used to cross themselves are the illusionist murals in the 15th-century er German rulers could not get hold of him when they reached the steep rock treasure vault, the scenes depicting Mary in and his abilities. Later famous prisoners in R of the ochre castle of Kriebstein, the 1410 chapel and of course the Alexius Königstein’s dungeons did not come of their from here on the Zschopau River was reason- Altar. In 1986 a treasure was discovered in the own will, including the anarchist Michael ably tame and the countryside safe, at least in chimney of the living room and the jewels Bakunin, the Social Democrat August Bebel times of peace. The steepest road in Saxony are now displayed in the treasure vault. A var- or the »scandalous novelist« Frank Wedekind. now leads up the granulite rock, on the top ied program of events and cultural highlights It was as difficult to conquer Königstein For- of which the late Gothic jewel was built. The such as a medieval festival, a »fairy-tale cas- tress as it was to escape from within its walls, unique residential tower, 147 feet tall and with tle« event, rock concerts, stylish knights’ ban- which is why the Saxon court moved here six dormer windows, was home to the first quets and spine-chillingly mysterious tours with all the state treasures whenever the situ- owner Dietrich von Beerwalde over 600 years of the ancient walls are held here on this ation got difficult. Visitors should take the ago. It contains the richly decorated Krieb- steep rock. time to see George’s Castle, the new and old stein Room from about 1423. Just as unique

Königstein Fortress Kriebstein Castle Festung Königstein | 01824 Königstein I Phone +49 (0) 3 50 21 6 46 07 I info@festung-Königstein.de — HOW TO FIND US Highway A17 Pirna Exit, follow signposting along Route B172 from Dresden to Burg Kriebstein | 09648 Kriebstein | Phone +49 (0) 3 43 27 95 20 I [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Mittweida Exit, continue in the direction of Talsperre Kriebstein Bad Schandau to Königstein, suburban fast train Dresden-Schöna to Königstein River steamboats to Königstein — Free admission to the fortress, permanent exhibition and special exhibitions with the castles (river dam) and follow signposting to the castle, Highway A14 Döbeln-Nord Exit direction Waldheim, railway Berlin–Chemnitz to Waldheim station — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS, with the exception of events. with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS, with the exception of events. 44 Castles and fortresses in Saxony — The castle grounds on the Freiberger Mulde river — The castle grounds with its “Alte Wasserkunst” and Michaelis Church www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 45 Symbol of power Castles and fortresses in Saxony and fortresses Castles

he mighty castle of Mildenstein is one of the oldest in Saxony; its name T first appears in a document in 1046. The Salier kings held court here, then the Staufer kings under Emperor Barbarossa who undertook a large-scale extension, and later still the Wettin margraves under whom Mildenstein became a court of law and a notorious prison. The instruments of torture and door bolts behind the meter-thick walls still send a shiver down the spines of visitors who just before had been amused to see the 12-foot giant boot of Döbeln. Architecturally, the barrel vaulting of the Gothic cornhouse, the keep and the Romanesque castle chapel with its three-winged altar are outstanding, as The power are the medieval knights’ halls. The sheer size of the castle complex allows it to be used of towers in many ways: exhibitions and concerts are held throughout the year. Delicacies that were then served to the elector in festively lit halls are still served by stewards and pages ong before Bishop Thietmar wrote in 1002 about a fortress on river Spree and the »lower town«, but drawbridges and defensive walls on St Martin’s Day. The rustic knights’ halls the cliffs of the Spree river, people used this place as a refuge. have long since disappeared, and today the defensive structure is open, can also be used for private functions. And L Traces of a settlement which go back as far as the Bronze hospitable and often the scene of cultural events. Today, the main Mildenstein surrenders to those intending to Age indicate the use to which this granite plateau on the edge of the building accommodates the Superior Administration Court of Saxo- enter into wedlock to rule the castle for one Lusatian hills had been put since time immemorial. Later, the trade ny. In the former »Salzhaus« (salt house), visitors can visit the Sorbic day. The permanent exhibition in the Front and military road Via Regia – »Kings’ Road« – ran along here, bringing Museum and discover the culture of the Sorbian, a Slavic people Castle of Mildenstein is a comprehensive ac- a prosperity which has lasted until the present day, evident from the who have acquired the status of a recognised national minority. The count of the almost 1000 years of history of rich, varied architecture of Bautzen. From afar »The Town of Towers« Burg Theater is one of the venues for the renowned German-Sorbian the power symbol in rock and vividly dem- greets travellers with its rooftops and tall landmarks such as those of Volkstheater, and it is also possible to relax in the »Burghof« restaurant. onstrates the times when the castle was a the »Alte Wasserkunst« (old waterworks), St. Petri Cathedral, and the Walking along the fortifications the visitor can enjoy a wonderful view place of feudal judiciary that was not always Michaelis Church. Ortenburg Castle with its Renaissance gables, for of the winding streets of the old town which is well worth a visit and is sensitive. so long the centre of power in Upper Lusatia, towers high above the teeming with bars, restaurants and cosy pubs.

Mildenstein Castle Ortenburg Castle Burg Mildenstein | Burglehn 6 | 04703 Leisnig | Phone +49 (0) 3 43 21 6 25 60 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Leisnig Exit direction of town center, railway Ortenburg Bautzen | Ortenburg 1-9 | 02625 Bautzen-Budyšin | Phone +49 (0) 35 91 4 20 16 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4/B6 Bautzen West Exit, continue along Route B96 from Leipzig, Chemnitz or Dresden to Leisnig — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with to the multistory carpark in the center — Free admission to the Sorbian Museum and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, the exception of events. with the exception of events. 46 Castles and fortresses in Saxony — The castle grounds — The town of Stolpen with its castle (left) — »Siebenspitzenturm« – the tower with seven tops (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 47 The people’s art

or centuries the Ore Mountains lived from that which gave the Ore Mountains. Scharfenstein is widely known as the »Castle for it its name – especially the silver mines, which made this pic- Families« amongst the Saxon castles, for here you can best experience turesque mountain range a prosperous region. But when the and be astounded, play and discover, try out and join in! Fairy tale

F in Saxony and fortresses Castles face-workers in the sixteenth century started to bring even less white weekends, carving, painting and assembling workshops for children are ore out of the tunnels, the people of the Ore Mountains had to look all part of the themed tours for younger visitors. But adults too can for new sources of income. Therefore, what previously had been a be entertained by the exhibitions on folk art traditions, castle history way of passing the long winter nights became their way of earning as well as by »the Robin Hood of the Ore Mountains«, Karl Stülpner, their daily bread: the production of wooden figures and Christmas and learn something about the region. So anybody who would like decorations. It is possible to see the fruits of this rich craft tradition in to come as near as possible to such items as the carved wooden ani- Scharfenstein Castle, for this 800-year-old castle possesses the Martin mal, the smoking man, the Christmas arch or the Christmas pyramid, collection, a special treasure of folk art objects and toys from all over should come to Burg Scharfenstein as soon as possible!

The fateful years of a mistress

fortress of »ruined wood« is said to too. But the castle was not to achieve fame affairs and eventually was to become a victim have been already standing there through war and catastrophes, but instead of her princely bedmate. The stone on which A in the year 1100, where today the through intrigues at the Saxon court due to the castle is built is as hard as the fate suf- castle of Stolpen shows itself to the visitor. its most famous and lasting resident. For al- fered by Countess Cosel. Basalt, which forms The castle was first mentioned as having been most half a century, until her death in 1765, the base of the fortress, was first described by secured in the year 1222. The following 800 Anna Constantia Countess von Cosel was to scientists in Stolpen, for whom the character- years saw much light but even more shad- remain banished behind its walls. This cheer- istic stone of the castle mountain, just as the ow, for Stolpen was to suffer greatly in the ful, beautiful and clever woman, long-time deepest, unbuilt basalt fountains in the world, storms of European feuds. Hussites, Swedes, mistress of Augustus the Strong and mother has achieved the status of a national geological Prussians and the French were to leave scars of three of his children, had made enemies peculiarity. on the fortress, just as plague and fire were due to her apparent interference in political

Scharfenstein Castle Stolpen Castle Burg Scharfenstein | Burgberg 1 | 09435 Scharfenstein | Phone +49 (0) 37 25 7 07 20 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Route B174 second exit in Zschopau, railway Burg Stolpen | Schlossstraße 10 | 01833 Stolpen | Phone +49 (0) 3 59 73 2 34 10 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Ottendorf-Okrilla Exit via Radeberg to Stolpen line Chemnitz-Bärenstein to Scharfenstein — Free admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the along Route B6 Dresden-Bischofswerda, then follow signposting, from Saxon Switzerland the walkway is signposted from the »Bastei« rock, bus from Dresden to busstop Stolpen, Schützenhausstraße — Free exception of events. admission to the castle and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. Nature and art in harmony

Gardens and parks in Saxony Just as with life at court, nature had to obey the wishes of the rulers. In the Baroque garden the maze of boxtree hedges and trimmed hornbeams is as complex as an absolutist court intrigue. Even the landscape park of later centuries, which seems to have grown quite naturally, is in fact the result of careful planning. Either way, the result for Saxony was European masterpieces of landscape planning. 50 Gardens and parks in Saxony — The Royal Convalescence House with historical decoration (left) — A rose petal bath in Albert Bad (right) — The New Palace www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 51 Artificial nature Gardens and parks in SaxonyGardens and parks

lescence bath of the Saxon royal family, the Wettins, who frequently and proudly invited The valley the highest nobility of Europe to their pic- of turesque health residence. Even today the elements of the historical convalescence parks proclaim this splendour, and you can saunter the kings in the grounds, laid out in 1850 with over 50 hectares of attractive parks and themed he water which flows from the Mo- gardens. Wilhelminian and Art Nouveau spa ritz springs in the Elster Valley has architecture fit together in harmony with T been used since »time immemorial« the green and flowery splendor of the park, for health purposes, wrote Georg Leisner in making Bad Elster a place rich in historical 1669. Leisner was personal physician to Duke bathing culture, comparable to the great Bo- he park by the Neisse River in of Prince Pückler-Muskau, who was known and only one third in Germany. The New Moritz of Saxony-Zeitz, and with this recom- hemian spas. The King Albert Theater, the Muskau is a symbol of the greatest in the 19th century mainly as a travel writ- Palace in the heart of Muskau Park, which mendation – as well as the first analysis of the Royal Convalescence House, the so-named T possible contrast to the geometrical er. So rich in perspective was the way the was completely burned down at the end of health-giving waters – said something which KunstWandelhalle, three music pavilions landscape gardening of the Baroque court. self-taught gardener combined plants and the Second World War, has now been almost still echoes to this day. A good hundred and the Nature Theater today form a »fes- Romanticism declared that nature should landscape together into a »natural work of completely rebuilt and on two floors of the years later a certain Privy Councillor Goethe tival of the shortest way« which perenially first and foremost be »natural«, and the art« that he even became an example and a south wing you can see the spectacular ex- deigned to relax here, by the middle of the brings a rich cultural experience to the Moor landscape gardeners helped to the best of pioneer of the style as far away as the USA. hibition »Pückler! Pückler? Simply Unbeliev- nineteenth century Elster had been elevated and Mineral Baths, located at the »Three their ability. Ornamental gardening became Today the spacious UNESCO world heritage able!« From the 35-metre-high observation to the status of »Royal Saxon State Spa«, and Country Corner« where Saxony, Bavaria and the art of scenic landscaping. The most out- site is also a symbol of European integra- platform on the South Tower you can enjoy from then on it became the favoured conva- Bohemia meet. standing example in the world is the park tion, since two thirds of it are on Polish soil a panoramic view of the Pückler Park.

Spa Park Bad Elster Count Pückler Park Sächsisches Staatsbad Bad Elster | Touristinformation | Königliches Kurhaus | 08645 Bad Elster | Phone +49 (0) 3 74 37 7 11 11 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A72 Plauen- Tourismuszentrum Muskauer Park | Stiftung Fürst-Pückler-Park Bad Muskau | Neues Schloss | 02953 Bad Muskau | Phone +49 (0) 3 57 71 6 31 00 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US High- Süd Exit, follow signposting to Bad Elster — Free admission to the park with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to the »Elsterado« swimming pool and spa area and to the way A15 from Berlin and Cottbus, Roggosen Exit, then follow Route B115 to Bad Muskau, Highway A4 Dresden–Bautzen, Bautzen-Ost Exit, continue on Route B156 to Bad Muskau, Route B115 from Görlitz to Saxon Spa Museum, with the exception of events. Bad Muskau — Free admission to the park and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 52 Gardens and parks in Saxony — The Palace with Palace Pond — The lower orangery www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 53

The unfinished symphony Gardens and parks in SaxonyGardens and parks

The green heart of Dresden he gardens at Grosssedlitz are among built, with plans drawn by his own hand. The spacious terraced grounds are today a the most notable in Germany, but this There was to be nothing less than a Saxon work of artistic garden architecture with two T symbol of determination to create is Versailles here, but in the end Grosssedlitz orangeries, fountains and around 60 sculp- he capital of Saxony is a big garden landscape. Few large cities for festive events in the middle of green surroundings. In the sum- worth a visit for other reasons too. It is also was never completed – an acute shortage of tures. A walk around always opens new are so close to nature or have such extensive gardens, spa- mer, the open-air stages and the puppet theater are always popular. of special significance because a prominent funds at the court of Dresden, where other- perspectives, which still today are evidence T cious parks and generous lawns for playing and sunbathing. Other attractions include the Botanical Garden and the zoo, while Saxon ruler left his imprint on how it looks. wise they had so happily spent money, put of the expertise of the planning. The visi- The most impressive park in the Saxon metropolis is the 363-acre Volkswagen’s manufacture of luxury cars in its Transparent Factory Having constructed his residence for retire- an end to the creative fantasy. Nevertheless, tor can, especially in the summer months Great Garden or Grosser Garten. Elector Johann Georg III started on the edge of the park is a symbol of the modern. For the journey ment here in 1719, the Imperial Count von the 12 hectares which were finished are so when exotic plants and orange trees fill the Dresdeners’ favorite park with its absolutely straight avenues in into the wide landscape of experience, visitors young and old like Wackerbarth sold it – not entirely of his full of splendour that it is hardly possible to the park with scent and color, experience 1678, modeling it on the French parks. The Palace at the point where to use the park railway, which is traditionally operated by Dresden own volition – to Augustus the Strong. The imagine how the park might have been had the imagination of the highborn creator of the avenues meet is a jewel of early Baroque. It is still used today schoolchildren. new owner had the gardens completely re- all the planned 96 hectares been completed. Grosssedlitz.

Great Garden of Dresden Grosssedlitz Baroque Garden Schlösser und Gärten Dresden | Geschäftsstelle Großer Garten/Kavaliershaus G | Hauptallee 5 | 01219 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 4 45 66 00 | [email protected] — HOW TO Barockgarten Großsedlitz | Parkstraße 85 | 01809 Heidenau | Phone +49 (0) 35 29 5 63 90 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A17 Pirna Exit, there follow FIND US Highway A4 Dresden-Hellerau or Dresden-Altstadt Exits, then follow the signposting towards the city center/zoo/glass/VW’s transparent manufactory, use trams and get off at Comeniusplatz, Zoo or signposting via Route B172 from Dresden to Heidenau or Pirna, then follow signposting, suburban fast train from Dresden to trainstop Heidenau-Großsedlitz, from there the 20-minute walkway is signposted Großer Garten — 50% concession on all tickets for the Dresden Park Railway with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. — Free admission to the park and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. — The Mausoleum (left) — The Abbey (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 55

The heritage of the Cistercians

t the beginning of the European because Altzella was the cemetery for the Reformation, the German princes noble Wettin family, the royal court in Dres- A who had converted to the Lu- den remained interested in the lands. Here, in SaxonyMonasteries theran faith drove the monks out of their in 1787, Elector Augustus III erected a mau- monasteries. There remained ruined monas- soleum in an early classical style, while his The triumphant march of knowledge tery grounds, in which anyone interested in garden architect Johann Friedrich Huebler history could perceive only the echo of the surrounded the white graves with a land- monks and their activities. Such was the case scaped park in Romantic style. The manmade Monasteries in Saxony also in Altzella, after the Saxon sovereign landscape, so natural in its appearance, with Prince Henry the Pious had ordered the secu- its old pointed arches, seemingly fixed gables The majority of the pugnacious knights in their castles had scarcely heard of the larisation of the Cistercian monastery there. and broken arches quickly attracted famous word education and could hardly read, let alone write. It was first and foremost the The grounds where the monks had lived and names of German art such as Casper David worked since 1175 fell into ruin, the bricks of Friedrich who found total inspiration here. members of the clergy who cultivated Saxony with their knowledge and aptitude. the monastery were removed to be used else- Anybody who today wanders onto the soft Outstanding monastery complexes in Saxony tell of that untouched time when the where, while valuable books from the library, splendor of the old monastery grounds is numbering almost a thousand, were given certain to find what at that time fascinated future »motherland of the Reformation« first became Christian. over to the University of Leipzig. However, the Romantics.

Altzella Monastery Park Klosterpark Altzella | Zellaer Straße 10 | 01683 Nossen | Phone +49 (0) 3 52 42 5 04 30 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Nossen-Nord Exit, Highway A4 Nossen- Ost Exit or Siebenlehn Exit, railway from Dresden, Meißen, Döbeln, Leipzig to Nossen, bus from Meißen, Freiberg, Döbeln, Dresden to Nossen — Free admission to the monastery and permanent exhibition with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. 56 Monasteries in Saxony — The Chapter House with facilities and herbal garden (left) — The manor’s chapel (right) — The basilica (left) — The rood screen (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 57

New chapter in old walls

herever Cistercians built monas- helped this area to blossom. The monks dis- lands. Themed gardens which were laid out teries, they changed forests and appeared as a result of the Reformation of the with care and hard work invite you to come W marshes into fertile land, and early sixteenth century, but the cultural spirit and see how the monks worked each day. A brought civilisation and progress. That hap- on the St. Marien Monastery has returned to local chapel, a chapter house with a Neces- pened at the end of the twelfth century at a its ancient walls after nearly half a millenni- sarium (a rare example of a monastery toilet smooth bend of the Freiburger Mulde river, um of exclusive agricultural use. The slogan over running water), abbey and other parts, when the hard-working monks of this con- of the Cistercians »Porta patet cor magis« – some still in perfect condition and evidence gregation cultivated the land in that area. For »The door is open, but the heart even more« of Medieval architecture, justify St. Marien’s more than three hundred years these monks – has taken on a new significance, when to- new function as the cultural-historical centre had been actively involved in the develop- day markets, festivals, concerts and training of the region. ment of the region and, with their knowledge, events take place in the imposing monastery The return

pirituality declined from the walls of the monastery over the centuries. of spirituality S Today, however, Wechselburg is once again full of rich spiritual activity due to the monastery which the Bendedictine monks

from Ettal, in Bavaria, dared to establish in the noble family von Schönburg. This led to in SaxonyMonasteries 1993. It was a spectacular stroke of luck, the monastery being dubbed »Wechselburg« thanks to which the 850-year-old monastery (Swap Castle) by the population – a title offers not only a treasure trove from the past which has today become official. The 800- but also promise for the future. Founded in year-old Wechselburg basilica, built of red 1168 under the name of Heilig Kreuz (Holy porphyry, is recognised as being one of the Cross), monks at first lived here by the prin- best surviving relics of the Romanesque era ciples of St. Augustus. The monastery was in Germany, while the Baroque palace of the transferred by Margrave Henry the Enlight- von Schönburg family is a charming contrast. ened, after a rewarding century, to the Ger- The palace park with its variety of impressive man Order, which in turn had to withdraw trees is ideal for peaceful walks. Apart from in favor of Duke Moritz of Saxony after the their pastoral duties, the monks run a small secularisation which followed the Reforma- hostel which is open to anyone who wishes to tion. Duke Moritz, in turn, exchanged Heilig withdraw from the hectic of the world for a Kreuz for three villages near Dresden from few days.

Buch Monastery Wechselburg Benedictine Monastery Förderverein Kloster Buch e.V. | Klosterbuch Nr. 1 | 04703 Leisnig | Phone +49 (0) 3 43 21 5 03 52 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Döbeln-Nord Exit, follow Route B169 Benediktinerkloster Wechselburg | Markt 10 | 09306 Wechselburg | Phone +49 (0) 3 73 84 8 08 13 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Döbeln-Nord Exit, follow direction Döbeln, or Leisnig Exit into Leisnig, then follow respective signposting, railway from Leipzig or Dresden to railstop Klosterbuch — Free admission to the monastery and permanent exhibition with the Routes B169 and B175 direction Zwickau, Highway A72 Hartmannsdorf Exit, continue along S241 and S242 passing through Burgstädt via B95 Leipzig-Chemnitz, follow Route B176 direction Geithain — Free castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Concession tickets to special exhibitions, with the exception of events. admission to guided tours of the church with the castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Reduced rates for accommodation, not for events. The experience of grand joie de vivre

Accommodation in Saxony Today some of the most beautiful and outstanding stately homes in Saxony are again in private hands, often transformed into stylish hotels, modern conference centers or culinary temples. Their guests do not even have to strain their imagination to transform themselves into the lord of the manor or the mistress of the castle. In the hospitable state of Saxony, many doors stand wide open to a grand existence, even if it is only temporary. 60 Accommodation in Saxony — The Hoernitz Castle parlor (left) — The castle entrance (right) — A room in the youth hostel (above) — The castle grounds (below) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 61 From dark arts to noble hospitality Fortress of youth

hristian Hartig, the son of the the hotel charms its guests with the alchemy builder of Althörnitz Castle, once of hospitality. The easternmost castle hotel in C ran a little witches’ kitchen with Germany with its 74 rooms, renovated con- the alchemist Walter von Tschirnhaus in the ference and event rooms and enjoyable deli- t is almost a thousand years since the great tower of the castle, melting together cacies elevates its visitors to the peerage for first reference was made to a castle at the four elements and all sorts of things the duration of their stay. I Colditz. The fortress on the Zwickauer besides. After a particularly dramatic explo- Mulde is one of the oldest in Saxony. Today, sion, the villagers also blew their tops. The one wing of the castle is occupied by the local chronicle describes how »his subjects Europa Hostel Schloss Colditz thereby filling thereafter sent a deputation into the castle one building with international life behind telling him to have no truck with Tschirn- walls which have not always been witness to haus, that this man be known in the whole joy and happiness. In 1404, after Colditz had area as a master of the Dark Arts and that changed hands several times, it started to be- the people were fearful that the whole village long to the Wettins who established an of- was in danger of burning down«. The alche- ficial residence here. One hundred years later mist’s room in the great tower of this splen- a fire wiped out both the town and the castle. did building still exists, but Althörnitz Castle The following three centuries saw extensive now masters a completely different art: today rebuilding and the blooming of Colditz, which came to an abrupt end at the end of the eighteenth century as the court at Dres- den decided that the castle was no longer suitable for the times, sold off the contents and paved the way for it to be used in a more mundane way. The once noble building was used as a home for the poor, as a mental institution and a prison camp. It became world-famous during the Second World War, when high-ranking officers of the western allies were imprisoned here. Afterwards the castle was used as a hospital, driving out the spirit of its glorious past. This comprehen-

sive reformation is now over as, thanks to Accommodation in Saxony the European Youth Hostel, cheerfulness and hospitality have returned to Colditz. That is why the modern hostel, which is almost as beautiful as a hotel, has become a popular place to stay for visitors from all over the world.

Althörnitz Castle Hotel Colditz Castle European Youth Hostel Schlosshotel Althörnitz | Zittauer Straße 9 | 02763 Bertsdorf-Hörnitz | Phone +49 (0) 35 83 55 00 | hotel@schlosshotel-Althörnitz.de — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Bautzen-Ost Exit, follow Route B6, Europa-Jugendherberge Schloss Colditz | Schlossgasse 1 | 04680 Colditz | Phone +49 (0) 3 43 81 4 50 10 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A14 Grimma Exit, continue along Route B107 in Löbau follow Route B178 direction Zittau center, follow signposting there — 10% discount on regular room rates for the holder of a castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. direction Colditz, there follow signposting to castle, Highway A4 Glauchau Exit, via Rochlitz to Colditz, railway/bus from Leipzig mainstation by regional railway to Großbothen, change to bus to Colditz or from Leipzig mainstation by regional bus to Colditz — 10% discount on regular room rates for the holder of a castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. — Colditz Castle (see page 11) 62 Accommodation in Saxony — The wedding suite (above)— The restaurant terrace (below) — The royal suite (above) — The park front (below) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 63

King for a day

n the edge of the wide parkland small and large architectural and botanical Valley of the natural treasures of the Saxon of the Baroque summer palace is attractions which make up the varied, special Switzerland National Park are only an hour O this hotel on the banks of the palace grounds. Therefore hotel guests, after away by steamboat. Elbe. Its four-star ranking is thanks partly to they have experienced Saxon cuisine par exits special location in a peaceful suburb of the cellence in the Schlossrestaurant, can wander former royal residence city of Dresden. This through the Pillnitz Park and let themselves small, exclusive hotel with its three suites and be whisked back to a time in which ladies in 42 rooms has acquired a first-class reputation layered dresses and gentlemen in powdered because visitors to Dresden, after a visit to wigs engaged in courtly conversation on the the Semper Opera House or walking by the very same footpaths. Should anybody then Church of Our Lady, do not want to miss the wish to leave Pillnitz at all, they can plan tours Baroque ambience. This private family hotel for the following day, for from here sights is only a few meters away from the many such as the picturesque vineyards of the Elbe

A noble James Ogilvy Earl of Findlater reformed the Baroque palace and the experience park in the style of Palladium Classicism. Today the glorious manor house with its 30 hectares of landscaped park, elegant halls, salons and historic visitors’ rooms is accommodation with an aristocratic atmosphere, guaranteeing a special kind of stay. Festivals with a noble touch, meetings in relaxed surroundings or simply a weekend with nybody who wishes to spend some days relaxing and at the exquisite food, relaxation in the spa area and a walk in the palace park same time experience an aristocratic lifestyle will have found – the Palace Hotel Gaussig, owned today by the family of the Count A their dream domicile here. Gaussig, one of the most promi- von Brühl-Pohl, is open to all who wish for a stay which is anything nent palaces in Upper Lusatia, is now a spacious hotel which com- but usual. bines the spirit of past times with today’s demands for comfort and luxury. First mentioned in 1245 as a residence for nobility, the essen-

tial features of a large castle built here in 1700 are still to be seen. Dres- Accommodation in Saxony den courtiers such as the von Neitschütz family, the Imperial Count Heinrich von Brühl or the Russian envoy Hermann Carl Count von Keyserlingk have left their artistic imprint on the grounds since the Baroque era. Gaussig experienced its last great reconstruction at the end of the 17th and beginning of the 18th centuries, when the regional master of building works and the exiled Scottish nobleman

Dresden-Pillnitz Castle Hotel Gaussig Castle Hotel Schloss Hotel Dresden-Pillnitz | August-Böckstiegel-Straße 10 | 01326 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 2 61 40 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A17 Pirna Exit, Schloss Gaußig | An der Kirche 2 | 02633 Gaußig | Phone +49 (0) 3 59 30 5 52 27 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Salzenforst Exit, direction Neukirch to junction to Gaußig continue along expressway direction Radeberg, turn off at Graupa/Pillnitz, Highway A4 Dresden-Hellerau Exit, then follow signposting to Pillnitz, Elbe river steamboats to Pillnitz — 10% discount on regular town center — 10% discount on regular room rates for the holder of a castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. room rates for the holder of a castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. 64 Accommodation in Saxony — The town of Hohnstein with its castle (left) — The Upper Courtyard (right) — The palace with its Baroque garden (above) — The Knights’ Hall (below) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 65

Nature in verything here breathes historical aesthetic and produces an entire ef- Stillness perfection E fect which has yet to find its match in historical perfection,« wrote a certain Dr. Alfred Lindner enthusiastically in his in style »Chronicle of Schweinsburg Palace«. The 800-year-old moated castle, still West Saxo- a walk through the Baroque garden, or try ny, still has many enthusiastic visitors who one of the many keep-fit facilities at the today find a modern hotel – which is afa- hotel. Visitors who come on a day-trip to vourite for holding meetings as well as for this region, which until recently was known tourist wishes – on the grounds of the old as an industrial region, can book, in the military stronghold. Where once the Count hotel, a journey of a special kind. Start- von Crimmitschau and later the Countess ing from Schweinsburg, you can ride in an von Schönburg lazed in front of the fire, you original Trabant through the surrounding can today enjoy a comprehensive sport and area which includes the car-making town leisure programme or celebrate weddings and of Zwickau, where until 1990 the legendary other family occasions in an aristocratic at- East German »racing cardboard box« was mosphere. Maybe you can simply relax with produced in the original Audi factory. ing. In 1924 the castle at the gateway to the Elbe Sandstone Mountains was judged »most beautiful youth hostel in Germany«. Today it is open to visitors of all ages and from near or far for staying overnight, since the hostel is situated on a plateau of rock at the heart of the most beautiful national park in Europe called Saxon Switzerland. Countless stories tell of Hohnstein’s eventful past — of Elector Christian II’s bear-pit, which was forced to close in 1756 by residents who were enraged that animals had escaped and caused »high spirits« in the village; of the steep Warten- o enemy ever managed to scale the berg Road, which »in a way« cost Napoleon walls of Hohnstein Castle, such is victory at the 1813 Battle of the Nations, N the steepness of the jagged rocky because artillery and horses under General spur that it stands on, high above the Polenz Dominique Vandamme had to surrender be- Valley. There was also no hope of liberation, fore managing to get up the wet road; from

making the Black Hole of Hohnstein one the sinister gallows hill, where the last pub- Accommodation in Saxony of the most feared dungeons of the Middle lic execution drew large curious crowds in Ages. As the people said, »He who goes to 1795. Curiosity is today stilled by the »castle Hohnstein seldom goes home«. Thank good- tour for all the senses«, the many concerts, ness, this saying does not apply any more, the famous church designed by George Bähr since the current owners of the castle hap- and the annual puppet festival in front of pily welcome patrons to their beautiful build- the museum.

Hohnstein Castle Schweinsburg Castle Hotel Burg Hohnstein | Am Markt 1 | 01848 Hohnstein | Phone +49 (0) 3 59 75 8 12 02 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Route B172 to Pirna, from there direction Neustadt via Lohmen Hotel Schloss Schweinsburg | Hauptstraße 147-149 | 08459 Neukirchen/Pleiße | Phone +49 (0) 37 62 9 48 00 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Schmölln Exit, and Rathewalde to Hohnstein, suburban fast train from Dresden-Hauptbahnhof to Pirna, from there by bus to Hohnstein (busstop Markt) — 10% discount on regular room rates for the holder of a continue direction Crimmitschau, Werdau and Lauterbach to Neukirchen/Pleiße, Highway A72 Reichenbach Exit, continue direction Werdau, Crimmitschau, pass through Langenhessen to Neukirchen/Pleiße castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. — 10% discount on regular room rates for the holder of a castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. 66 Accommodation in Saxony — The hotel (left) — The Elector’s Suite (right) — Boarding house with courtyard (left) — Breakfast room (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 67

A noble manner Absolute luxury here there once was a manor house dedicated mainly to vineyards there is now a boarding house with a long history in one of the most beautiful areas of Dresden. W In the year 1835 the Saxon King Friedrich August II personally acquired these ituated at the heart of Dresden’s his- only reminder of the former splendor of chambers and expanded them to become a brewery which, along with the court’s demand for toric Old Town, flanked on one side the Baroque city residence. But in 1995 was wine, was also to satisfy its thirst for beer. After Friedrich August’s death in 1854 the court S by the world-famous Zwinger and on opened the Taschenbergpalais, which today is disposed of this property and it functioned mainly as a residential property. Later it even be- the other by the Dresden Castle, is an es- considered one of the most beautiful luxury tablishment about the resurrection of which hotels in Germany, and is evidence of the so many people had doubts. Originally built ability to combine modern structures with by Augustus the Strong in 1705 as a gift for protected monuments. That work of the great his mistress Anna Constantia Countess von Saxon court builder Matthäus Daniel Pöp- Cosel, and comprehensively extended after pelmann built on a small hill - the Taschen- she was exiled, Taschenbergpalais was almost berg, by the banks of the Elbe, arose in its completely destroyed in the inferno of the old splendor, despite those who would have bombing in February 1945. For almost 50 quite happily seen it disappear into history. years afterwards, blackened walls were the Today this grand hotel, which is close to the Church of Our Lady and the Semper Opera House, is once again a place where tourists from all over the world can make, for a short time, a »home away from home«, and at the right place to find the spirit of old Dresden. The people of Dresden themselves love to visit the hotel, especially in winter, when they can skate on an ice rink which is probably the most beautiful in Germany, in the inner courtyard.

came the location of a »people’s owned« factory for decorated candles. In the 1990s the old

depots and stalls were lovingly restored, and are now an insider’s tip for visitors to Dresden, Accommodation in Saxony who can discover the city on the Elbe and its fascinating surroundings from here. The former property of the King of Saxony is only a few steps away from Pillnitz Castle, the picturesque buildings along the Elbe are directly in front of the door and the sights of Dresden city centre are only twenty minutes away by bus, tram or steamship. But surrounded by ivy-covered walls, vines and rose beds, it can sometimes be tempting just to stay at home and enjoy the almost Mediterranean flair of the »Königliche Ausspanne«.

Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski Dresden Boarding House »Zur Königlichen Ausspanne« Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski Dresden | Taschenberg 3 | 01067 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 4 91 20 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US Highway A4 Dresden Freudenberg GbR | Eugen-Dieterich-Str. 5 | 01326 Dresden | Phone +49 (0) 3 51 2 68 95 02 | [email protected] — HOW TO FIND US über A4 Highway A4 Dresden-Hellerau or Dresden- Altstadt Exit, follow signposting towards the city center, tram to tramstops Theaterplatz or Postplatz — 10% discount on regular room rates for the holder of a castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Altstadt Exit, Highway A17 Pirna Exit, follow Route B172 direction Radeberg to Graupa/Pillnitz Exit — 10% discount on regular room rates for the holder of a castles TOUR PASS or castles ANNUAL PASS. Four ways to Saxony’s history

Theme routes The nobility, bourgeoisie and clergy living and working in Saxony left traces that are easy to resdiscover individually today. Better still is to visit them in a series, which gives visitors the chance to explore other sights on the way. And there is often no need for a car, for Saxony offers ideal conditions for everybody to follow the course of Saxon history, even on foot or by bicycle. 70 Theme routes — The Zwickau Main Market (left) — The Mulde river valley near Lastau (right) — Rochsburg Castle (left) — The Little Swan Palace in Freiberg (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 71

— Many-sided stone The valley of castles Further to the north is Rochlitz, dominated by its castle with the prominent towers. The red porphyry from Rochlitz not only became known in its ground form on sports fields as »cinder track« but was also used in many places as »Saxon — Historical hiking marble« for building, for instance in nearby Colditz Castle. The fact that the Mulde river, the fastest-flowing river in central Europe, is not navigable, has to a large extent helped to keep its original character. The numer- — Reformation vigor ous sights along its banks are best viewed slowly, on foot on the Mulde Valley East of the confluence of the Mulde is Leisnig, dominated by Mildenstein Castle. Hiking Path from Zwickau to Freiberg. After two long visits by Luther the Leisnig Order of Castes, a model of Protestant social teaching, appeared in 1523. The town church St. Matthai, with its interest- — Masters of music ing manneristic altar was in the care of the former Cistercian monastery in the The house where Robert Schumann was born in Zwickau is well worth a visit. The present-day district of Klosterbuch until the Reformation. so-called Priests’ Houses by the cathedral are also worth seeing, as they are among the oldest residential buildings in Germany. Osterstein Castle is now used as a — Miracle of the Middle Ages senior citizens’ home. North of Zwickau is Glauchau with its double castle and The High Altar in St. Nikolai, the town church of Döbeln, is one of the most the church of St George, for which the Saxon organ builder Gottfried Silbermann valuable carved altars in Saxony. The most special feature of its realistic image of created one of his famous instruments. death is the Miracle Man, a life-sized, moving figure made in the Middle Ages, which recreates Christ’s last journey. The first sign of the Altzella Monastery Park which is near Nossen, is the Clothmaker’s House in Rosswein, which was once the abbot’s house for the monastery. Nossen is dominated by its palace, which developed out of a knight’s castle.

— Source of wealth Visitors to Freiberg today can still seek out the 750-year-old silver mine, which brought wealth to the Saxon rulers and made Saxony one of the technologically leading areas in Germany. Visitors to the city will find Freudenstein Castle interesting, as well as the cathedral with its numerous unusual artworks, and the large and small organs of Gottfried Silbermann who had his workshop in Freiberg. The medieval city townscape, including its defensive wall, is unspoilt.

— Secular and ecclesiastical pomp Grünfeld Park, an English style landscape park, is the best-known attraction of Waldenburg. The Renaissance portal of the former Rear Castle serves as a stylish entrance. The Front Castle was remodeled in the 20th century as one of the last stately homes of the nobility in Germany. A valuable ceiling divided into sections with illusionist paintings is only one of the many works of art in the »Church of Our Lady on the Mountain« in Penig. The medieval-looking Rochsburg Castle sits enthroned above a bend in the river and the castle chapel is worth visiting. Wechselburg with its well-known monastery church is located behind the confluence of the Chemnitz and Mulde rivers.

Route 1 Distance 155 km | Detailed view of the tour on the map of Saxony on pages 76/77 — For more routes please go to www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 72 Theme routes — The Oelsnitz Mining Museum (left) — The West Saxon Textile Museum (right) — The Frohnau Hammer Mill (bottom) — Villa Esche (top) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 73

extends between Dresden and Zwickau and commemorates more than — Textile design 800 years of mining in Saxony. To the west is the castle of Wolkenstein The cradle of the town of Crimmitschau, the Schweinsburg Castle, is sitting majestically on its rock, and the former tin mine of Ehren- today a hotel. In Blankenhain Castle in another part of the town, the friedersdorf which is also worth visiting. Close by is the town of German Agricultural Museum is well worth visiting. The West Saxon Annaberg-Buchholz, whose mining regulations were for a long time Textile Museum features a completely preserved historical material the law in the whole of Germany. In the impressive St Anne’s Church, factory. The magnificent villas of the mill owners are in Lindenstrasse. the unique miners’ guild altar portrays the history of silver mining. Textiles were also important for Glauchau, where there are two stately 17th-century technology is shown in the iron hammer mill in the homes next to each other. Lovers of two or four wheels should visit Frohnau district. Not far from Schlettau Castle visitors can still travel the Sachsenring racetrack near Hohenstein-Ernstthal, and not only on by steam every day between Cranzahl and Oberwiesenthal. There is a event days. From there it is a stone’s throw back to Chemnitz. rail museum near the castle in Schwarzenberg.

— Black gold To the north of the Silver Route is Hartenstein. As well as the ruins of the stately home and Stein Castle, the former villa of a »coal baron«, now Wolfsbrunn Castle Hotel, is also to be found. The history of Saxon coal mining is told in Oelsnitz’s mining museum. Lichtenstein Palace is today home to the Daetz-Center for International Wood

— Traces of Saxony’s industrial history Sculpture. Palaces of Until World War II, Saxony was the leading industrial region of Ger- many. Rich factory owners were able to build villas of such splendor — Luxury on wheels that they equaled the palaces of the nobility. Further west, in Zwickau, August Horch built luxury cars of the the old and brands »Horch« and later, after founding another company, »Audi«, — The center of Saxony’s industry the Latin translation of his surname. The museum, which is named The Industrial Museum of Chemnitz gives its visitors the chance to after him, is located in the old Audi factory and shows a century of new rich experience Saxony’s industrial history first hand, with such inventions auto manufacture in Saxony. as the coffee filter, the single-lens-reflex camera and mild detergent, as well as an old and wheezing steam engine. In the former monastery and later castle on the castle hill there is now a museum. Of the villas belonging to Chemnitz factory owners, the most outstanding is that of Herbert Esche, which Henry van de Velde designed in the style of Art Nouveau. The moated castle of Klaffenbach on the southern outskirts of the city is also unconventional.

— Fast wheels The most outstanding exhibition of motorcycles in Europe can be viewed in the hunting lodge of Augustusburg with its panoramic view over the Ore Mountains, whose natural resources made the industri- alization of Saxony possible. The town of Zschopau is dominated by the castle of Wildeck, where »hot machines« have been built since 1922. In Lengefeld’s limestone museum there is an exhibition of the history of limestone quarrying, which goes back over 400 years.

— Saxony’s oldest holiday route In Olbernhau visitors can admire the famous Ore Mountains art of woodcarving, as well as the Saigerhuette smelting hut with its old installations for copperworking. Also there is the Silver Route, which

Route 2 Distance 245 km | Detailed view of the tour on the map of Saxony on pages 76/77 — For more routes please go to www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 74 Theme routes — Free climber above the Elbe valley (left) — Albrechtsberg Castle (right) — Water Palace of Pillnitz Castle (left) — A Meissen porcelain ® painter (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 75

Elbe Castles on the steep right bank of the river form a splendid ensemble. Elector Augustus the Strong built the Neustadt, the Baroque new town opposite the Old Town, and is com- Between nature memorated there as the »Golden Rider«. Canaletto’s famous view of the Old Town silhouette can be seen from the Elbe banks at the Japanese Palace, with Brühl’s Terrace, Dresden Castle, the Court Church, the Zwinger and the Semper Opera House. Around the Church of Our and culture Lady, the historical New Market is being rebuilt.

— The northernmost winegrowing area in Germany The State Winery at Wackerbarth Castle produces sparkling wine in a magnificent setting. Radebeul was also home to the writer Karl May, whose home Villa Shatterhand is now a museum. The Old Town of Meissen with 1,500 historical buildings is crowned with Albrechtsburg Castle on the castle hill. In the Meissen State Porcelain Manufactory, the production of the oldest porcelain in Europe can be experienced. The Hahnemann Center in the ruins of the former Cistercian Holy Cross Monastery is dedicated to the founder of homeopathy, who was born in Meissen. On the other side of the Elbe charming winegrowing villages provide a welcome back. The castle in Diesbar-Seusslitz was rebuilt by George Bähr in the Baroque style. It is here that the Saxon Wine Route ends, having started in Pirna as a holiday route through the Saxony winegrowing region along the Elbe river.

— Historical testimony In the church in Strehla there is a unique ceramic pulpit. Because the stately home is in private hands, only the park is accessible for the public. On the banks of the Elbe a memorial commemorates the meeting of US and Soviet troops at the end of World War II, which is often mistakenly said to have happened in the nearby town of Torgau. There, the castle of Hartenfels rises above the river. The Old Town, characterized by the Renaissance and well worth a visit, is home to important sites of Reformation. But the favorite drink of Martin Luther, the dark Torgisch beer, can also be enjoyed here. It is no surprise that Luther visited the town more

— Along the Elbe river by bicycle than 40 times. The Elbe Cycle Path is the most popular in Germany. It extends from the Czech border to the Elbe estuary at Cuxhaven. The Saxon part is particularly attractive, uniting dramatic landscapes with world-famous cultural sights.

— The fascination of nature The ideal starting point for an adventure on two wheels is Bad Schandau. A little further to the north, the fortress of Königstein sits majestically on a table mountain offering a magnificent panoramic view of the Saxon Switzerland National Park. There are many free climbers here, for this art of climbing without support was invented here back in the 19th century to protect the sensitive rocks from damage. But the sandstone has always been popular as a building material, whether for the Brandenburg Gate in Berlin or the Church of Our Lady in Dresden. Further down river is the open-air theater of Rathen, the most beautiful natural stage in Europe. Above it is the »Bastion« or Bastei, a rock rising steeply from the Elbe, which has inspired many, especially artists. Pirna is the gateway to Saxon Switzerland. The townscape portrayed in Canaletto’s Baroque paintings can still be easily recognized in the town today.

— World heritage of the Saxon love of art After reaching the city of Dresden, a visit to the stately home of Pillnitz is a must. After the famous Blue Wonder bridge, it is possible to bike on both sides of the Elbe. The three so-called

Route 3 Distance 190 km | Detailed view of the tour on the map of Saxony on pages 76/77 — For more routes please go to www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 76 Theme routes — The lower Market in Goerlitz (left) — The Sun Organ in St Peter’s Church (right) — The Upper Town of Bautzen (top left) — The Little Lenten Veil (bottom left) — The Bautzen Town Hall (right) www.schloesserland-sachsen.de 77

— Catholic island in the motherland as Caspar David Friedrich. To the west of Zittau is the Althörnitz of the Reformation Castle Hotel. The Cistercian monastery of St. Marienthal, halfway between Görlitz

und Zittau, has existed since 1234. In the former service buildings — Successful missionaries there is now an international meeting center. Halfway to Löbau is Herrnhut. It was here that Ludwig Count von Zinzendorf founded the Moravian Church with religious refugees

— The town between the three countries from Moravia, who had already split from the Catholic Church be- The impressive Old Town of Zittau on the borders of Saxony with fore Luther. The »Moravian Stars« worked successfully as missionaries both Poland and the Czech Republic is dominated today by Classicist all over the world. The »Herrnhut Daily Watchwords« are the oldest buildings. Zittau gained its wealth through the production and trade Protestant prayer book, and the famous »Herrnhut Christmas Stars« of textiles. It is no surprise that the town’s most outstanding works of are popular in many countries during Advent. art are also made of textiles – and they are unique in Germany. The

purpose of the lavishly decorated lenten veils was to separate off the — The modern and the traditional altar room during Lent. The Great Lenten Veil hangs in the former The town of Löbau not only has an attractive Old Town but also an Church of the Holy Cross, and the Little Lenten Veil in the former outstanding building of the modern era: Villa Schminke. Further west Franciscan monastery, now the town museum. is Cunewalde, with the largest Protestant village church in Germany. The village is characterized by the Umgebinde houses, which are typi-

— The smallest mountain range in Germany cal of the region, a perfect synthesis of the German half-timbered and South of the town, the Zittau Mountains can be reached daily by steam- the Slavonic wooden block room styles. From Cunewalde, it is only a driven narrow-gauge rail. On the rocks above Oybin are ruins of the short distance back to Bautzen. Foreign rule castle and monastery grounds, which inspired such Romantic painter and tolerance

— The unique cultural landscape of Upper Lusatia The rulers of Upper Lusatia often changed in the course of history. The region therefore has not only Saxon but also Silesian, Bohemian, Hungarian and Austrian characteristics. For centuries, Germans and Slavonic Sorbs have coexisted. Tolerance has always been important, as is shown by the many church buildings and works of art to be found on the »Via Sacra«.

— Center of Sorbian culture The Old Town of Bautzen has kept its medieval character. It lies picturesquely on a rock above the Spree river, dominated by the Ortenburg Castle, once the seat of the foreign governors. The Sorbian Museum in an adjacent building shows its visitors a rich and lively ethnic culture. St Peter’s Cathedral has been used by both Protestants and Catholics since 1524. Rich treasures can be found in the Baroque cathedral chapter.

— One of the most beautiful towns in Germany Further to the east and on the border with Poland is Görlitz with 3,500 architectural monuments from the Gothic to the Art Nouveau periods. Even the synagogue survived the trials of history. The façade of the Biblical House is decorated with scenes from the Old and New Testaments. St Peter’s Church captivates its listeners with the Baroque »Sun Organ«, which can even imitate the chirping of birds. From there a pilgrims’ path leads to the »Holy Sepulcher«, a 500-year-old replica of the original in Jerusalem.

Route 4 Distance 165 km | Detailed view of the tour on the map of Saxony on pages 76/77 — For more routes please go to www.schloesserland-sachsen.de

castles TOUR PASS & castles ANNUAL PASS

more than 50 properties in Saxony 7 days at € 18 - 1 year at € 38

• entitles holders to as many visits as they would like to more than 50 sights

• free admission to permanent exhibitions

• concession tickets to special exhibitions

• valid from the first visit to one of the indicated properties

• special offers at castle hotels and free admission to museums for card holders

• two children up to age 15 will enjoy free admission to permanent exhibitions when they are accompanied by an adult card holder

• seven days at € 18 with the castles TOUR PASS, one year at € 38 with the castles ANNUAL PASS

• sold at all properties indicated

castles PASSES as well as further information can be obtained from all participating properties, at www.schloesserland-sachsen.de and at our Visitor Service & Shop in the Schinkelwache guardhouse. Schloesserland Sachsen Visitor Service & Shop Theaterplatz | 01067 Dresden Phone +49 (0) 3 51 4 38 37 03 16 E-Mail [email protected]

Thank you for your visit. It is your support that makes culture a tangible experience and keeps history alive. Please come again! 82 Editorial details

PUBLISHED BY Staatliche Schlösser, Burgen und Gärten Sachsen Stauffenbergallee 2 a | 01099 Dresden Phone +49 (0) 3 51 5 63 9-13 11 Telefax +49 (0) 3 51 5 63 9-10 09 [email protected] SAXON STATE SPA www.schloesserland-sachsen.de

TMGS Tourismus Marketing Gesellschaft Sachsen mbH Bautzner Straße 45-47 | 01099 Dresden Phone +49 (0) 3 51 49 17 00 BAD ELSTER Telefax +49 (0) 3 51 4 96 93 06 [email protected] CULTURAL & FESTIVAL TOWN www.visitsaxony.com

CONCEPT AND DESIGN BY pingundpong Maternistraße 17 | 01067 Dresden [email protected] www.pingundpong.de

MAPS DESIGNED BY CHURSÄCHSISCH MOZART WEEKS (March) Dr. Harald Schubärth & Partner, pingundpong Events around Mozart

AUTHORS CHURSÄCHSISCH SUMMER Axel Nörkau, Dr. Klaus Jarchow, Wolfgang Gärtner SAXON|BOHEMIAN CULTURAL FESTIVAL (May - October) more than 150 Events off all types of genre PRINTED BY in the EUREGIO EGRENSIS Druckhaus Dresden NATURETHEATRE SEASON (May - September) PHOTOS BY COURTESY OF Opera, Operetta, Play, Classic, Folklore... Archiv Barockschloss Rammenau; BUR Marketingagentur; Barockschloss Delitzsch; Daetz-Centrum Lichtenstein (Pho- open air atmosphere in wonderful ambience to: Heike Koslowski); Daniel Nötzoldt; Ernst Wrba; Photo Weigel, Schwarzenberg; Frank Höhler; Frank Richter; Gabriele Goers (Hanke); Gerhard Dörner; Gerhard Weber; Gregor Lorenz; Herbert Boswank, Dresden; Holger Stein; h+m kommu- INTERNATIONAL JAZZ DAYS BAD ELSTER (August) nikation und werbung gmbh (Photo: Uwe Möckel); Jacqueline Freudenberg; Jens-Michael Bierke, Tourist-Information; Jazz & Culinary Joachim Junge; Jörg Schöner; Karen Benndorf; Klaus Schieckel; Klosterpark Altzella; Lars Neumann; Lothar Sprenger; Manfred Lohse; Marco Klinger; P. Georg M. Roß OSB; Peter Hennig; Peter Leyendecker; Peter Mauksch; R. Grosser/FV CHURSÄCHSISCH FESTIVAL Lingnerschloss e.V.; Rainer Meissle; Rost & Partner (Photo: René Pech); Sabine Wenzel; Schloss Wackerbarth; Schloss Middle German Culture on historical Stage! Weesenstein; Schlosshotel Pillnitz GmbH; Staatliche Schlösser, Burgen und Gärten Sachsen; Stadthalle Chemnitz GmbH; Steffi Schlosser; Stephan Floss; Sylvio Dittrich, Dresden; TMGS-Archiv; Taschenbergpalais Kempinski Dresden; (September - October) Thomas Gräbner; Uwe Tölle; Volker Kreidler; Werner Lieberknecht; Werner Unfug, 2000; Westsächsisches Textilmuse- Opera, Ballet, Play, Concert, Art and Culinary um Crimmitschau; Wolfgang Gärtner; Wolfgang Sens; © Peter Kulka Architektur Dresden GmbH (Photo: Jörg Schöner); © Staatliche Kunstsammlungen Dresden (Photo: David Brandt) CHURSÄCHSISCH WINTER DREAMS A FESTIVAL FOR ALL THE SENSES (December) EDITORIAL DEADLINE Theatre, Classic, Folk and Culinary in the 4th season! October 2009

Individually group offers, program details, tickets and further informations: Touristinformation Bad Elster · Königliches Kurhaus Bad Elster Hotline: +49(0)37437 / 53 900 · [email protected] · www.badelster.de www.schloesserland-sachsen.de