12 Friday, August 1, 2014 www.thenational.ae The National weekend travel

my kind of place Dresden, Germany travelling with kids Solving being Phoenix from the fire driven to distraction The once-devastated city has been restored to its glorious best, with many modern attractions, writes David Whitley

Why Dresden? driving holiday in New Zealand There’s an overwhelming sense of taught us that be- a city trying to grasp back what it ing cooped up in once had. The day that everything aA car for hours at a stretch changed was February 13, 1945, isn’t all that bad. when Allied bombers unleashed Within the first hour a firebombing campaign of of picking up our rental unprecedented savagery. Dresden, car in Auckland, both long regarded as the most beautiful my daughters vomited. city in Germany, was obliterated. We’re at the beginning That which was lost was largely of a 10-day holiday. The built in the late 17th century and plan is to drive to Christ- early 18th under Augustus the church and then Queens- Strong, the autocratic ruler of town, before looping back Saxony who had an enormous up to Auckland. Except that appetite for all things blingy and the car is now smelling to self-aggrandising. The Altstadt high heaven. (Old Town) became a Baroque We stop off at a grocery masterpiece. Over the decades store and buy cleaning sup- since the end of the Second World plies, wondering if we’re do- War, the pieces of the jigsaw have ing the right thing by driv- been painstakingly put back ing so many miles with two together. Hugely expensive, faithful active young children.­ reconstructions have returned Then comes the first sur- key chunks of the Altstadt to their prise of our trip. “We’ll former sumptuousness. help you clean up,” says my But Dresden’s appeal isn’t all elder daughter, Ranju. Af- about beauty and backstory. Across ter steadying ourselves, we the Elbe River, the Neustadt (New decide to take up her offer. Town) acts like a younger brother And so it begins, this bond- that’s just about on speaking terms ing trip taking us so far from but prefers to go its own way. It home. crackles with life – and doesn’t A driving holiday requires feel the need to rebuild the past to proper planning. We have create a fizzing, optimistic present. to make sure that there are tasty snacks and drinks, A comfortable bed particularly in those long sections where there’s To go for the full-on Augustus The Neumarkt in Dresden. The city has been rebuilt in the time since Allied bombing raids during the Second World War. Athanasios Gioumpasis / Getty Images no rest area for miles. We the Strong feel, why not stay in bring along games and lis- the enormous palace that he had ten to audiobooks. What’s built for his mistress? The Hotel Frauenkirche (www.frauenkirche- Grosser Garten is an enormous, Shopper’s paradise Don’t miss surprising is how much we Taschenbergpalais Kempinski dresden.de; 0049 351 6560 6100), 200-hectare park, with walking discover about each other. (www.kempinski.com; 0049 3514 finally resurrected in 2005, is a trails and handsome tree cover The Altmarkt Galerie About 15 minutes’ walk beyond There’s something about a 9120) is an audacious behemoth glorious fantasyland of coloured around the central palace. Created (www.altmarkt-galerie-dresden. the Grosser Garten is one of the moving vehicle and beauti- of stucco ceilings and lacquered marble. From there, walk past to host Augustus the Strong’s many de) has 200-plus mostly generic most astonishingly ambitious ful scenery that brings out furniture. The rooms, mercifully, the Fürstenzug, a giant, porcelain lavish festivities, it’s now home to chains – but Dresden’s most artworks that you’re ever likely to the poet and philosopher in aren’t all-out gaudy. Superior depiction of all Saxony’s rulers. a cute miniature railway, a small enjoyable shopping is found in see. The Panometer (www.asisi.de; travellers. So it is with our rooms cost from €160 (Dh789). Speaking of porcelain, the world’s zoo and, oddly, a see-through the Äussere Neustadt. Walk along 0049 351 860 3940) – a converted family. Located on the Neumarkt in the largest collection can be found in Volkswagen factory. Rothenburger Strasse, dipping into gas cylinder – offers a 360-degree Our younger daughter, heart of the Altstadt, the QF Hotel the Zwinger complex (www.skd. the streets that branch off it, to find chance to take in 18th-century Malu, has always been in- (www.qf-hotel.de; 0049 351 563 museum; 0049 351 4914 6679) Book a table all manner of amiable independent Dresden in all its glory. At nearly terested in geography. The 3090) has a more modern slant – – an extraordinary palace built stores. They sell everything from 30 metres high and 100 metres in vast expanses of New Zea- bright, spacious and airy rooms, for Augustus the Strong. He also As a general rule, Altstadt dining is brightly coloured Latin American diameter, Yadegar Asisi’s carefully land give full play to her doused in neutral professionalism. amassed a fantastic collection of proudly traditional. But Alte Meister fashion to fun knick-knacks researched masterwork is packed imagination. Except with a Doubles from €139 (Dh686). art by Europe’s Old Masters there, (www.altemeister.net; (elephant-shaped watering cans, with near-photographic-quality twist. For a bargain, the Aparthotel including Raphael and Cranach the 0049 351 481 0426), with a world-map-covered umbrellas). detail. Take Tram 1 or 2 to get Rather than asking ques- Neumarkt (www.aparthotels- Younger, and a series of Canalettos tremendous terrace for warm The Kunsthofpassage connecting nearby from the Altstadt. tions, as children do, Malu frauenkirche.de; 0049 351 438 depicting Dresden in its heyday. evenings, does it very well. Expect to Alaunstrasse is the highlight – ends up answering ques- 1111) comes with kitchenettes, For dazzlement, however, the dishes such as saddle of veal it’s a network of courtyards given Getting there tions. She has studied quite plants brightening the lounge area Historisches Grünes Gewölbe and with mustard crust, radishes and a gorgeously playful makeover a lot about the land and its and washer-dryers – a big bonus Neues Grünes Gewölbe inside potato cake (€21.50 [Dh110]). by local artists, speckled with Air Berlin (www.airberlin.com) geology. She can point out for those visiting Dresden as part Dresden Castle (www.skd.museum; The Neustadt veers more towards galleries, craft shops and cafes. flies direct from Abu Dhabi to specific rocks and tell us of a multiple-European-city jaunt. 0049 351 4914 2000) display the international cuisine, while the Berlin Tegel Airport, with return about the age of the country. Studios from €70 (Dh358). ludicrous treasures hoarded by Äussere Neustadt (Outer New Town) What to avoid flights costing from Dh3,115. For any parent, discovering Saxony’s ruling Wettin family over goes for laid-back boho. Villandry From there, a one-change bus- the depth of your child’s Find your feet the centuries. (www.villandry.de; 0049 351 899 As with many European cities, most and-train connection to Dresden’s knowledge is a particular 6724) is the classiest option, with a of Dresden’s major attractions main station takes about two pleasure. It often doesn’t The key Altstadt attractions are Meet the locals gastropub-meets-art-gallery look, a close on Mondays. But the Castle, hours and 45 minutes, and costs happen at home, when one within a couple of hundred metres menu that changes daily and mains for unexplained reasons, closes on from €19 (Dh94) if booked online is caught up in the routine of each other. The octagonal Just to the west of the Altstadt, the for about €20 (Dh99). Tuesdays instead. (www.bahn.de). of homework and extra-cur- ricular activities. It’s taken a trip to a country that’s thousands of miles from home and driving for hours hotel insider Hotel Townhouse 27, Belgrade, Serbia at a stretch to bring out the teacher in our 12-year-old. It’s a little different with Ranju, 18. She’s a practical sort and helps her father A boutique stay that avoids an Iron Curtain vibe changing the oil, filling up petrol and examining the spare tyre. Ever the diplomat, she even medi- business guests. I’m travelling disorientating, and a few times ates a quarrel between my The welcome just outside the main tourist when I come out of the restaurant husband and I while Malu I find the hotel’s quietly smart season, and the breakfast is filled or turn right at reception, I end sleeps. We’re shocked to entranceway without difficulty. mainly with business types from up on a different floor to the one discover that not only have Various family members work elsewhere in Serbia, the United I expect. Some of the floor panels we failed in our resolve at the hotel, and the welcome Kingdom and the United States. are made of glass that looks never to fight in front of the is personal, genuine and like it has been shattered and is kids, but that our child is professional, without being The food about to collapse beneath you, mature enough to mediate overbearing. The building was There’s an attractive ground-floor but apparently this is part of the our petty quarrel – and that originally built in 1929, but it has cafe that does a good cappuccino design. It’s great to be able to she’s good at it. been extensively reconstructed, (I enjoy sitting by the window and open a window to fresh air, but (We had little choice, and the interior is thoroughly looking out at the almost-Parisian sometimes when I did this I could we tell ourselves later. modern, with neutral colours and street scene) and an excellent smell cigarette smoke from other How long could one bot- a high-quality, boutique-style buffet breakfast comprising hot guests. There’s no gym or spa, tle up simmering resent- finish, with wood, stone, steel and cold items, from salad to but there’s a facility close by that ments while cooped up in a and glass elements. The interiors imaginative Serbian specialities guests can use. ­vehicle?) are given some individuality that will set you up for a long day of Ten days later, we return with sculptures, drawings and sightseeing. It’s open throughout The verdict the car to the rental agency, photographs by the Serbian artist the day for snacks, but the menu A slick, smart and sane place hoping that it doesn’t still Gabriel Glid. on these occasions is rather to stay, in a fascinating and smell of vomit. We giggle limited, and I find myself going out very affordable city. You could and chuckle among our- The neighbourhood A room at Hotel Townhouse 27 in Belgrade. Courtesy Hotel Townhouse 27 to nearby cafes such as the uber- find somewhere cheaper, but it selves as we stand in line to The hotel sits on a fairly quiet trendy Supermarket, just round the may be more Iron Curtain than hand over the papers. We’ve residential street in Belgrade’s corner. The hotel’s room service is hypoallergenic sheets. explored a beautiful land old city, within walking distance internal courtyard and feels like (all different, without being provided by Supermarket, too. and had some wonderful of all the main sights, shopping a compact studio apartment. eccentric), and some of the suites The bottom line experiences. Best of all, we areas and restaurants. It also has There’s a Bang & Olufsen TV have ­balconies. Loved Rooms cost from €130 (Dh641) per have got to know each other a pleasant neighbourhood feel system, a private work area with a The comfort of the room, the area night, including tax and breakfast. in a way that we wouldn’t rather than a touristy one, with designer lamp and excellent Wi-Fi. The service and the ambience. It’s a rare place Hotel Townhouse 27, 56 Maršala ever have at home. That several squares nearby, and one- The bathroom is compact, with a Cleaners are gracious and friendly; where I almost feel too much at Birjuzova Street, Belgrade alone made the holiday off cafes and restaurants.­ shower, but no bath. I sleep very restaurant staff cheery and helpful. home: I’m sad to leave. (www.townhouse27.com; worth it. well. There’s a Nespresso machine 00381 11 202 2900). The room and a good-sized minibar. The The scene Hated Shoba Narayan My room faces a beautifully quiet property has 20 rooms in total The hotel caters to tourists and The downstairs areas are slightly * Rosemary Behan *