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Characteristics and Production Methods of the Main Varieties of Honkaku Shochu and

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Kome () Shochu stored and matured for about six months after and Kome Shochu is produced all before shipment. During this over , with one of the period the taste loses some of its oldest production areas being tanginess and the aroma settles. the Kuma region (Kuma- gun and Hitoyoshi City, Kome Shochu, made from a Kumamoto Prefecture), with Japanese staple food, has an the geographical indication of alluring aroma that enhances “Kuma Shochu” protected by the taste of food. There are the World Trade Organization’s a number of kome Shochu TRIPS Agreement on varieties, including one with a intellectual property (see page richer flavor produced through 19). In this region, the Kuma atmospheric distillation, one River flows through a plateau with a subtle aroma and light surrounded by mountains, and taste generated through vacuum rice has been grown there since distillation, and one with a the period in the distinctive flavor produced 13th century. It remains unclear through maturation in earthen when kome Shochu production urns or . The richer type actually started in this region, is usually enjoyed with hot water but there are still nearly 30 and the more subtle and lighter distilleries along the river. types on the rocks. Generally, kome Shochu contains about To produce kome Shochu, 25% alcohol. The stronger type rice koji is used in the first is more commonly enjoyed in shikomi process, and steamed the Kuma region, where they rice and water are added for have a custom to heat straight in the second kome Shochu in a container shikomi. Yellow koji , called a “gara,” and generally used to make Sake, it from a small cup called a was mainly employed in the “choku.” development of koji for kome Shochu up to the early 20th century. However, white koji fungus is widely used these days, and black and yellow koji fungi have also become popular among those seeking richer and more distinctive aromas and tastes. Usually, kome Shochu is

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Awamori Awamori’s rich flavor is also brought about by the single Awamori’s rich flavor is also brought Awamori is produced in shikomi method. Its aroma, and uses distinctive to the atmospheric about by the single shikomi method. rice (Thai rice, etc.) only as the distillation method, reminds main ingredient. It is labeled one of fruits like apples and as “Ryukyu Awamori,” and bananas. It also has an aroma this geographical indication is similar to that of protected by the World Trade mushrooms due to the oily to enjoy Kusu this way while of Kusu will be lost. Also, if Organization’s TRIPS agreement properties contained in the still maintaining the quality, Awamori is left untouched in on intellectual property. As for spirit. Vintage Awamori that a chronological/transfer an urn, the actual volume will the production method, black has been allowed to mature for ageing method called shitsugi decrease due to evaporation koji fungus is sprinkled over three years or more is called is employed, which involves and the level of alcohol will steamed rice to cultivate the Kusu, and it has a sweet and several urns filled with Awamori go down by approximately koji first, and then one partkoji mellow vanilla-like aroma that made in different years. For 1% year on year. Although the and 1.5 parts water are added is brought about through the example, if five urns are used, shitsugi process may seem like to a fermentation tank, along slow chemical reaction of its when a drink is ladled out a slow and laid-back approach, with yeast. This initial part of oily properties. Generally, the from the first urn containing it is an excellent method for the process is particular to the most popular way to drink the oldest Awamori, the same maintaining the uniqueness of making of Awamori, as it uses Awamori is on the rocks or with amount is then replaced from Kusu, and it basically assures only black koji fungus and just water, while Kusu is best tasted the second urn. This in turn is that each drink retains a similar one shikomi stage, in which the straight. refilled from the third urn and level of quality and alcohol full amount of rice as a main so on, with the last urn filled content. Using this method, ingredient is used to make the Kusu, even with an alcohol level with newly made Awamori. If vintage Kusu that is aged over koji. After the moromi mush is of over 40%, tastes mellow you add newly made Awamori 100 years can be produced. formed, the enzymes contained without a strong alcohol flavor to the oldest, however, the in the koji break down the rice and smells sweet. In order quality and distinctiveness into sugar and the yeast goes through the fermentation process to produce alcohol. Newly 5th-oldest 4th-oldest 3rd-oldest 2nd-oldest Oldest Following about two weeks made of fermentation, the alcohol level of the mush becomes approximately 18%, after which it is transferred to pot stills for distillation. For Awamori, it is common to use a special distillation apparatus that circulates the moromi and is shaped somewhat like a horse. This helps develop Awamori’s rich and deep flavor.

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Mugi () Shochu koji, cultivated from white koji fungus, with the steamed barley There are two large islands in added for fermentation at the Kyushu: Iki and Tsushima, second and third shikomi stages. which appear in Gishiwajinden, Traditionally, it is produced a Chinese text written during by the atmospheric distillation the third century, as part of a method, but some mugi primary transportation route Shochu is made by the vacuum between Japan and the Asian distillation method. Each continent. While Tsushima distillery on the island has its has steep mountains and deep own individual way of making Organisation’s TRIPS agreement the second shikomi in which forests, Iki is quite flat and its Shochu, such as the use of on intellectual property. steamed barley and water are has the second-largest plain in urns for shikomi, or oak barrels added for fermentation. Made Nagasaki Prefecture. Therefore, for storage. By contrast, mugi Shochu by the vacuum distillation Iki is ideal for growing grains produced in other areas, such method, most of the varieties are and fruit, and is also known for Traditional mugi Shochu as Oita Prefecture, is generally of a fruity and light quality. As its quality beef and fresh seafood on Iki has a kind of roasted made with barley koji and they are usually clear in color, it from the Genkai-nada Sea. In barley aroma, more like that of steamed barley. The firstshikomi is best to drink them with cold addition, it was here on Iki chocolate-covered barley, due is conducted with water and water or on the rocks. It is also where mugi Shochu originated. to the atmospheric distillation barley koji, which is cultivated excellent as a base for . method. In this method, with steamed barley and Iki’s mugi Shochu is made with starches contained in the barley white koji fungus, followed by rice koji and steamed barley, undergo hydrolysis to produce which is different from themugi sugar, and the sugar combined Shochu produced in other areas. with amino acids is heated to This is because the ratio of rice generate the sweet and roasted koji to steamed barley is 1:2, aroma. It also has a rich flavor which has remained consistent brought about by the rice since the Meiji era more than koji, which stands out when a century ago. In terms of combined and drunk with hot production, the firstshikomi water. The name “Iki Shochu” process is conducted with rice is protected by the World Trade

Traditional mugi Shochu on Iki has a kind of roasted barley aroma, more like that of chocolate-covered barley.

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Imo (Sweet Potato) Kogane-Sengan: This is the most Shochu widely used variety as the main ingredient of Imo Shochu with Imo Shochu is produced all its flesh a whitish yellow color. over Kyushu, but in particular The Shochu produced has a in Kagoshima Prefecture and sweet and rich flavor, distinctive southern Miyazaki Prefecture, to steamed sweet potatoes. as its main ingredient, sweet potato, is a signature product Purple-colored variety: of these areas. Generally, Yamakawa Murasaki and koji, water and yeast are used Ayamurasaki are well known in the firstshikomi stage to varieties .Their flesh is purple cultivate yeast to a sufficient and contains pigments called amount, and water and steamed anthocyanins. The flavor of this version became popular and however, there is another way to sweet potato pieces are added Shochu reminds us of red spread to the Kyushu region enjoy Imo Shochu, and that is to in the second shikomi for and yogurt. after the war. The Shochu made put the Shochu and cold water fermentation, followed by with this fungus tastes slightly into a black pot, called a “Kuro distillation. The reason why Orange-colored variety: The milder and lighter compared to Joka,” and warm it up over there are two shikomi stages Shochu made with this orange- that made with the black type. direct heat. This custom is called is that fermentation proceeds fleshed variety has a flavor quite “Dareyame” or “Daiyame,” smoothly even when the scale like that of boiled carrots and Although it is delicious with which originally meant “to stop of the shikomi is large. Before pumpkins, as well as tropical cold water or on the rocks, fatigue.” Imo Shochu produced this method started around the fruits like papaya. The orange the relaxing mellow flavor in Kagoshima Prefecture is early 20th century, the koji, color comes from beta-carotene, particular to Imo Shochu is called “Satsuma Shochu” and sweet potatoes and water were which brings a certain unique often enjoyed with hot water, this geographical indication is combined at the same time. aroma to the product. as the drink’s distinctive aroma protected by the World Trade This method is called “ and sweet taste becomes richer Organisation’s TRIPS agreement (big bowl) Shikomi” and some Black koji fungus: This fungus, when warmer. When Shochu on intellectual properties. distilleries have recently started which was previously used for with an alcohol level of 25% is to employ this method based Okinawa’s Awamori, started diluted with water to a ratio of Imo Shochu is also produced on records from that time. to be used in Imo Shochu six parts Shochu to four parts on Tokyo’s Izu Islands, and Although sweet potatoes are production in the early 20th water), the alcohol level comes the residents there call it generally steamed before the century. It is believed to help down to almost that of Sake. “Shimazake,” or island . shikomi, some distilleries bake bring out the rich and deep The ratio is easily adjustable Although its production method them to achieve a distinctive flavor of sweet potatoes. by changing the amount of is believed to have come from flavor that is both sweet hot water added to suit your Kagoshima, Shimazake is made and savory. White koji fungus: This is mood. It is best to pour the hot with barley koji, rather than actually a mutant strain of black water first and let it cool down the rice koji of Kagoshima, and Recently, a wide variety of sweet koji fungus. Due to its black a little before gently adding the features a great combination potatoes and koji have been used spores, black koji fungus tends Shochu, so that they mix well of the sweet flavor of sweet for Imo Shochu. The following to stain work areas, apparatus and the subtle sweetness comes potatoes and the light and are examples: and clothing, so this white out perfectly. In Kagoshima, savory flavor of barley.

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Kokuto (Brown Sugar) directly from the white juice acidic with a hint of coconut Shochu squeezed from sugar cane, but oil. It has a subtle taste, and Awamori’s comes about after the juice is is probably more enjoyable simmered, concentrated and when diluted with cold water, rich flavor is Kokuto Shochu, which features solidified. The solidified brown rather than with hot. The the subtle sweet aroma of brown also brought sugar is resolved with water and Amamioshima Branch of sugar, is produced only on the steam, and the liquid is cooled Kagoshima Prefecture Sake and about by the Amami Islands of Kagoshima for use in the second shikomi. Shochu Makers Association Prefecture. According to the single shikomi The brown-colored sweet- designated May 9th and 10th as Liquor Tax Act, these islands smelling moromi mush looks “Amami Kokuto Shochu Day,” as method. (managed by the Oshima delicious, but actually tastes this Shochu represents the rich Tax Office) are the only place quite with no sweetness, as natural environment and long allowed to produce the Shochu it is in its pre-distillation state. tradition of the Amami region. with brown sugar and rice koji. At present, there are distilleries Kokuto Shochu’s aroma has a on the Amami Islands, distinctive sweetness, typical Kikaijima Island, Tokunoshima to brown sugar, and is slightly Island, Okinoerabujima Island and Yoronto Island.

Although sugar is present, Kokuto Shochu also uses rice koji, which supplies the amino acids, vitamins and fatty acids that yeast needs to grow. The citric acids contained in the koji also maintain the acidity of the moromi. In addition, amino acids are the source behind the aroma of high-quality alcohol and ester, and rice koji enhances the fermentation process, resulting in a richer flavor for the product.

Generally, the firstshikomi for Kokuto Shochu uses rice koji cultivated with white koji fungus to develop the first moromi mush, and brown sugar is added at the second shikomi. Brown sugar is not produced

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Sakekasu (Filtered Sake and Kasumoromitori. Sake As these distinctive aromas Cake) Shochu cakes contain remnants of the and tastes are very strong just The fermented yeast and rice, as well as about after distillation, the Shochu is Sakekasu Shochu is made with 8% of the alcohol, and this stored for some time to allow Sake cakes Sake cake, which is what is left is refermented to increase the for settling. The most popular are mixed after Sake has been pressed out alcohol content by a little more way to enjoy Kasutori Shochu of the moromi mush. It has before distillation. is chilled or on the rocks, and with rice hulls long been employed for a range it can also be used as a base and spread in of purposes, including as an Kasutori: In this traditional in the making of plum liquor. ingredient for and as an method, Sake cakes are added Generally speaking, Kasumoromi the vessels to antiseptic. It has also been used with a small amount of water, Shochu is a little milder than ensure proper as a Hashira Shochu, a support and fermented for about a Kasutori Shochu, in terms of spirit for Sake making, which month with the help of yeast aroma and taste. exposure to is added to the moromi before contained in the cake and the steam. the pressing in order to raise distilled in steaming vessels. The One new variety of Sakekasu the level of alcohol for better fermented Sake cakes are mixed Shochu is made with the finely preservation. In some regions, with rice hulls and spread in the crushed cakes from high- the alcohol-free leftovers vessels to ensure proper exposure quality Sake using the vacuum obtained after distillation to the steam. This steam that distillation method. It has a are used as a fertilizer in rice contains a fair amount of sophisticated flavor similar to cultivation, and therefore alcohol is then cooled down to that of high-quality Sake. It Sakekasu Shochu is often drunk become Shochu. tastes excellent both chilled and on those special occasions on the rocks. related to rice growing. This Kasumoromitori: In this would include ritual events method, Sake cakes and water at shrines and the Sanabori are mixed to a porridge-like festivals that celebrate the state, fermented for two end of harvesting. (“Sanaburi weeks, and then distilled Shochu”) These are based on using the atmospheric or the philosophy that rice is used vacuum distillation method. without wastage, for example, Sake cakes are sometimes rice as a staple food, as an used as ingredients for the ingredient in Sake, Sake cake, second shikomi. and Shochu, as well as recycling the residue after distillation to As rice hulls are mixed in before be used as fertilizer to grow rice distillation, Kasutori Shochu the following year. has a complex, sweet and savory flavor, derived from Sake cakes, There are two methods rice hulls and dry grass. The used in the production of type distilled in a wooden vessel Sakekasu Shochu: Kasutori also has a subtle woody aroma.

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Appellation of Origin Status – World Trade Organisation’s TRIPS Agreement

Appellation of Origin Control (French: Appellation d’origine contrôlée) is the system whereby the WTO grants certification to certain agricultural products such as from Bordeaux and Chablis, Champagne sparkling wines from Champagne region, , etc, based on the concept of “terroir” or traditional regional unique qualities.

Among Honkaku Shochu and 球磨焼酎 Awamori varieties, Iki Shochu, Kuma Shochu, Satsuma Shochu and Ryukyu Awamori have been granted Appellation of Origin Status by the WTO.

球磨焼酎

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