FALL 2017 Felicitaciones, Complimenti, CONGRATULATIONS TO LDEI’S 2017 AWARD WINNERS

Grande Dame Award 2017 Winner 2017 M.F.K. Fisher Awards Grand Prize Winner Lidia Bastianich Sandra Gutierrez

ALSO INSIDE: REMEMBRANCES OF M.F.K. FISHER | GREEN TABLES | CLEVELAND LDEI BOARD MEETING Hawaii Dames Jan Yap (left) and Kai’ulani Cowell served over 450 students, teachers, and administrators for Liholiho Elementary School’s Wellness Day (see Green Tables, page 18). Nashville hosted its first “Tour de Farm: Beyond the Bend” followed by dinner for 150 prepared by (from left) Mindy Merrell, Maneet Chauhan, and Jessica Collins. Photo by Christen Clemins. (See Nashville Chapter Program, page 22.) M.F.K.Fisher in 1942-43 while screenwriter for Paramount Pictures/Hollywood. Photo by Man Ray. (See pages 13-15.)

FROM THE EDITOR Felicitaciones, Complimenti FALL 2 O17 to LDEI’s Award Winners Why the Spanish and Italian versions of “Congratula- tions?” To exemplify that the “American Dream” is still IN THIS ISSUE thriving. Our two top prize winners were raised in Guate- mala (Sandra Gutierrez) and Italy (Lidia Bastianich) and then became success stories in the U.S. First prize in the FEATURES M.F.K. Fisher Book Category went to Elaine Khosrova, a writer whose mother is Scottish and whose husband’s par- 5 Grande Dame Award Winner ents are German and Iranian, and the second-prize winner, Yasmin Khan, is a British- 8 M.F.K. Fisher Awards Winners Iranian. Of course, all U.S. ancestors 13 Dames Recall Grandest Literary except Native Americans im- migrated from other countries. Dame of All It’s been theorized that even they got here over a land 14 M.F.K. Fisher, Herself and bridge from Asia to Alaska. I Her Home myself am 25-percent Swiss by virtue of my grandfather who LDEI 2017 International emigrated from Switzerland 16 to Texas in 1905, and mar- Board Meeting in Cleveland ried my Texan grandmother. CiCi less than one-year old Perhaps that explains my with Swiss grandfather Weber 18 Green Tables overindulgence in chocolate! “I am the perfect example 19 LDEI The First Five Years Part 2 that if you give somebody a chance, especially here in the United States, one can find the way,” Lidia Bastianich said GCI's Global Culinary Postcard to me in the interview on pages 4-6. 30 That is also the way I think of Dames and our mentoring, teaching, giving scholarships, and supporting women in culinary fields. Fact in point: Look for the newest class of DEPARTMENTS Legacy Award winners at the conference in Newport Beach and peruse the “Chapter Programs” and “Member Mile- stones” to see the many ways Dames and their chapters are 20 Chapter Programs contributing to the success of other women. Therefore, congratulations to all Dames. For everything 26 Member Milestones you do to support our mission and other women, Felicita- ciones, Complimenti, Glückwünsche, Toutes nos félicitations! 31 Submission Guidelines —CiCi Williamson, Editor, Fall Quarterly

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 2017 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS The mission of the LDEI Board is to foster the growth and success of The Rubber is Hitting the Road! the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters It is hard to believe this is my last President’s and by implementing program initiatives. message for the Quarterly. As I write this in It provides leadership, guidance, August, however, the busiest three months are education, connectivity, and effective still ahead of me. Having the right people in communication among LDEI members. your corner is what makes the difference. I President STACY ZEIGLER tend to get myself in trouble when I start nam- Director of Sales, Bold American Events ing names, so I’m just going to give shout-outs 2929 Surrey Lane to everyone as a group. If you are reading this, Atlanta, GA 30341 then you have been a vital part of my journey. (678) 302-3232 | [email protected] What does being President mean? It means First Vice President HAYLEY JO MATSON-MATHES you get a lot of credit for things you may have Owner/Culinary Consultant only had a very small hand in. Of course, it 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 also means you get blamed for things you Honolulu, HI 96826 have no control over. That happens a lot less (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] often, thankfully! It has been a pleasure to Second Vice President BEV SHAFFER work with the LDEI Board this year. We have Owner/Culinary Consultant & Food/Travel diverse points of view on how to get there but Writer all feel strongly about where we want to go. 3433 Blake Road Add to that our chairs for the Legacy Awards, Seville, OH 44273 (330) 441-2706 | bev.foodwithattitude@gmail. LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Awards, Green Tables, com the Global Culinary Initiative, Social Media, Third Vice President Nominations, the Quarterly editors, and the DEBORAH MINTCHEFF chairs of conference and you see where the Cookbook Editor & Certified Life Coach 129 East 69th Street real work gets done. The volunteer hours and New York, NY 10021-5041 dedication by blood, sweat, and tears are to be (212) 879-0383 | [email protected] commended. Secretary It really isn’t that different at the chapter all year long, and that is what we are ultimately ANN STRATTE level. Chapter presidents take the lead, but all about. Women Supporting Women! It will 100 Severn Avenue, #506 be bittersweet, but I leave you in amazing Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 they must count on their board, committee (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] chairs, and members to be successful. Credit hands. My work is done…well almost! Treasurer also goes to the member. What is a chief with DEBORAH ORRILL no Indians? I mentioned close to a year ago Culinary Consultant in Washington, D.C., as I took the gavel, that 64 Vanguard Way Dallas, TX 75243 I wanted your feedback. You took me at my (214) 343-0124 | [email protected] word! I have loved hearing from you all and Stacy Zeigler Chapter Board Liaisons can’t wait to meet or see you again in Newport President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International KATHY GOLD Beach, California. I have felt amazing support President/Executive Chef The Cooking Company/ In The Kitchen Cooking School 10 Mechanic Street LDEI Board Haddonfield, NJ 08033 Members at (609) 206-4511 | [email protected] Vitamix Head- quarters. Hayley JUDITH BELLOS Matson-Mathes, Co-Owner Ces & Judy's Catering Jodi Berg, Co-Owner The Venue at Maison du Lac President and 10405 Clayton Road Frontenac, MO 63131 CEO of Vitamix, (314) 580-2000 | [email protected] Ann Stratte, Stacy Zeigler, Bev JULIE CHERNOFF Shaffer, Maria Dining Editor, Make it Better Media Gomez-Laurens, 200 Burnham Place Kathy Gold, Julie Evanston, IL 60202 Chernoff, Debo- (847) 902-6741 | [email protected] rah Mintcheff, Immediate Past President Judy Bellos, MARIA GOMEZ-LAURENS Deb Orrill. See Manager, Hospitality, HelmsBriscoe the LDEI Board 11241 Avenida del Gato Meeting report San Diego, CA 92126 in Cleveland on (858) 800-7650 | [email protected] pages 16-17. Executive Director GREG JEWELL President, AEC Management Resources P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected] FALL QUARTERLY 2017 3 Felicitaciones, Complimenti, CONGRATULATIONS TO LDEI’S 2017 AWARD WINNERS

GRANDE DAME AWARD

At the LDEI Conference in Newport Beach, two Dames will receive the organization’s top awards. Lidia Bastianich will be the 14th Grande Dame named by LDEI. Other worthy women were nominated for the 2017 award are: Raquel “Ricky” Agranoff (Ann Arbor) Nancy Brussat Barocci (Chicago) Kusuma Cooray (Hawaii) Laurie Donnelly Beatrice Ojakangas (Minnesota) Nora Poullion (Washington, D.C.) Martine Saunier It’s a great honor to be nominated by our chapters, and every one is a grand lady, so congratulations go to them as well.

M.F.K. FISHER AWARDS

The grand prize in LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Awards was won by Sandra Gutierrez (North Carolina). Of the nine winners chosen by 10 judges (who are not members of LDEI), four are Dames. The three third- prize winners are Cynthia Graubart (Atlanta), Elaine Cicora (Cleveland), and Kim Ode (Minnesota). This is remarkable considering only 15 Dames entered the contest—about half the number of previous years—of 74 total entries. See their stories on pages 8-12. For the first time, we have a winner from the U.K. Yasmin Khan, London, United Kingdom, author of The Saffron Tales (Bloomsbury USA) won second prize in the Book Category. Sue Carter (London) told me, “Yasmin spoke on a panel for the London Chapter, and that’s how she heard of our contest.” Of the 74 entries, 10 were in the Book Category, 40, Internet; and 24, Print (newspapers, magazines, and newsletters). The ten judges for the 2017 contest— long-time newspaper and magazine food editors and a writing coach—are not members of LDEI. They reside in California, Florida, Iowa, Texas, Utah, and Virginia. I hope more than 15 Dames enter the 2018 con- test!—CiCi Williamson, Chair, LDEI’s 2017 M.F.K. Fisher Awards Contest

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Lidia Matticchio Bastianich WINS GRANDE DAME AWARD

By CiCi Williamson Growing up in Pola, Lidia spent time Astoria bakery owned by actor Christo- (Washington, D.C.) with her grandmother Rosa on the farm. pher Walken’s father. After graduating “Nonna lived in the country. I was an from high school, she began to work full- ood has always been active child, so whatever she was doing, I time at a pizzeria in the upper west side a big part of my life,” helped her: milk goats, make goat cheese, of Manhattan. said LDEI’s 2017 press olives, harvest vegetables, and dig At her sweet-16th birthday party, she Grande Dame, head of potatoes,” she recalled. was introduced to her future husband, a restaurant empire, author The Istrian Peninsula changed hands Felice “Felix” Bastianich, who was also of 15 cookbooks, public many times. Currently part of Croatia, it an Istrian immigrant and restaurant television show host, wine- was once part of the Austro-Hungarian worker. They married in 1966 and had maker, and owner of a food Empire, Italy, and Yugoslavia. “A border two children, Joseph and Tanya, who are and entertainment business. By the situation is interesting,” said Lidia. “It now an integral part of Lidia’s businesses. causes you to learn several languages age of 10, food had impacted Lidia OPENING and cuisines. For example, the Venetian Matticchio Bastianich (New York). RESTAURANTS For two years, she and her family influence is spices brought from seafaring lived in a refugee camp in Trieste, Italy. trade such as cloves, pepper, and cinna- In 1971, the couple opened their first The camp was set in an abandoned rice mon. The Austria Hungarians contrib- restaurant, Buonavia (“good road”), in factory that was a former Nazi concen- uted strudel and stuffed cabbage leaves.” Forest Hills, Queens. The menu reflected what the most popular and successful tration camp. Risiera (“rice mill”) di San IMMIGRATING Italian restaurants of that time were Sabba was home to many other families TO AMERICA who had claimed political asylum from doing, and they hired the best Italian- Communist Yugoslavia. In 1958, when Lidia was 12 years old, American chef they could find. Lidia “The space was blocked off in family her family was granted Immigration started working in the front as a hostess, quarters, and we had to stand in line for Visas to the United States under the Dis- but soon gravitated towards the kitchen our food,” remembered Lidia. “My fa- placed Persons Act of 1948. That same and trained as the sous-chef. Eventually, ther sent my mother and us two children year, they moved to North Bergen, New she added her own Istrian specialties to to Trieste, and he left Yugoslavia under Jersey, and later to Queens, New York. the menu such as “Jota,” a bean and sau- cover of darkness.” She credits their sponsor, Catholic Relief erkraut soup, and “Fuzi,” a homemade Lidia was born in Pola on the Istrian Services, for giving them the opportunity hand rolled pasta. Peninsula. It was a former Italian ter- to start a new life in America. Lidia is a When they opened their second res- ritory and after World War II and the devout Roman Catholic. taurant, Villa Secondo, Lidia gained the Paris Peace Treaty of 1947, it became “Catholic Relief Services brought us attention of local food critics. At that part of Yugoslavia. Lidia’s family joined here to New York; we had no one. They time, she started to give live cooking over 250,000 people in what was known found a home for us. They found a job demonstrations, which marked the very as the “Istrian Exodus” of ethnic Italians for my father. And ultimately we settled. beginning of her career as a television from the communist country. And I am the perfect example that if you cooking show host. In 1971, Lidia give somebody a chance, especially here and Felice sold their two restaurants in in the United States, one can find the Queens and purchased a brownstone in way,” said Lidia. Manhattan, which they converted into “Being in a new country, I used food their flagship restaurant, Felidia (“Fe- as a memory carrier. I loved the smells lice” +”Lidia”). The New York Times gave Lidia as a young girl in Pula above the giardini. Nonna Rosa and family working in of the food that came from my grand- Felidia three stars. vineyard. Felidia Restaurant. Lidia and her mother’s cooking.” At the age of 14, Soon after Lidia’s son Joseph (“Joe”) mother Erminia Motika on TV show. Lidia started working part-time at the graduated from college, he decided to

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 5 “I am the perfect example that if you give somebody a chance, give up his newly launched career as a Wall Street bond trader and especially here in the United States, one can find the way.” join the family business. In 1993, he convinced his parents to partner –Lidia Matticchio Bastianich with him to open Becco (Italian for “peck, nibble, savor”) in the Theater District in Manhattan, and it was an immediate success. Along with Lidia’s daughter Tanya, who also joined the family busi- ness, they opened Lidia’s Kansas City in 1998 and Lidia’s Pittsburgh in 2001. Lidia’s other acclaimed restau- rants in New York City include Esca and Del Posto. Along with her son, Joe, Mario Batali, and Oscar Farinetti, the team opened Eataly, a large artisanal Italian food and wine marketplace, in the Flatiron District of New York City. Additional Eataly market- places were opened in Chicago, Boston, Sao Paolo, Brazil, with two more locations scheduled to open this year in Los Angeles and Toronto in 2018. Together with her daughter Tanya and son-in- law Corrado, Lidia developed a line of pastas and all natural sauces called LIDIA’S. Along with her son, she produces award- winning wines at the Bastianich Vineyard in Friuli, Italy. TELEVISION SHOWS In 1993, Grande Dame Ju- lia Child invited Lidia to film an episode of her TV show on PBS, “Julia Child: Cooking with Master Chefs.” The show featured acclaimed U.S. chefs preparing dishes in their own home kitchens. “Julia was so direct, so honest, I ended up taping two shows in my kitchen with her. Julia said that what she did for French cook- ing, [Lidia] was doing for Italian. The style of my own TV shows came from Julia’s example: being friendly, mentoring viewers.” said Lidia. In 1998, Public Television (PBS) offered Lidia her own television se- ries, which became “Lidia’s Italian Table.” It became a fixture in the

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International network’s line-up of cooking-shows. Kitchen” in 2002 and “Lidia’s Family She subsequently hosted additional Table” in 2007. Lidia won the 2013 PBS series, including “Lidia’s Family Emmy Award for Outstanding Culi- Table,” “Lidia’s Italy,” “Lidia’s Italy in nary Host. America,” and “Lidia’s Kitchen.” She For her books, she received a nomina- ends each episode of her show with an tion for a JBF award in 2008 for Lidia’s invitation to join her and her family Italy, and in 2010 for Lidia Cooks from for a meal, Tutti a tavola a mangiare! the Heart of Italy. Her other books (“Everyone to the table to eat.”) include several that accompany her Lidia’s own kitchen has served as the television series: La Cucina di Lidia, stage set for her television series. Her Lidia’s Family Table, Lidia’s Italian- mother, Erminia Motika, lives with her American Kitchen, Lidia’s Italian Table, in Queens, New York, and maintains Lidia’s Italy in America, Lidia’s Italy in the garden that provides many of the America, Lidia’s Favorites, Lidia’s Com- ingredients featured in the shows. monsense Italian Cooking, Nonna Tell Me “Grandma” often appears on the TV A Story, Nonna’s Birthday Surprise, Lidia’s series as a sous-chef. Joe Bastianich Egg-Citing Farm Adventure, and Lidia’s occasionally offers wine expertise. Mastering the Art of Italian Cuisine. Her daughter Tanya is involved in the Another honor for Lidia was cooking production of Lidia’s PBS series as for two Popes. In 2008, she was the an owner and Executive Producer of Chef for the Papal Celebration when Tavola Productions, and is active in the Pope Benedict XVI visited New York family restaurant business. City. “Since he was of German ances- “It’s so important to pass on family try, I prepared goulash, sauerkraut, traditions. Food for me was a con- spaetzle, and apple strudel.” remem- necting link to my grandmother, to bered Lidia. In 2015, she was the chef my childhood, to my past. And what I for the Papal Celebration for Pope found out is that for everybody, food is Francis’s visit to New York City. The a connector to their roots, to their past papal menu consisted of mainly veg- in different ways. It gives you security; etables, rice, and fish but also featured it gives you a profile of who you are, some of Felidia’s signature dishes such ° where you come from,” opines Lidia. as their Pear and Pecorino Ravioli. the Control Freak™ In homage to her immigrant roots, Does Lidia plan to retire anytime Lidia also hosts a series of hour-long soon? Dream on! Her 15th book, Temperature controlled PBS specials called “Lidia Celebrates Lidia’s Celebrate Like an Italian (Alfred America,” which premiered in 2011. Knopf), will be published this year induction cooking system The series celebrates the diversity of on October 17th. Moreover, she is cultures across the United States and currently writing her memoir with explores the American immigrant her daughter Tanya, which is set to be experience. released in May of 2018. Lidia is a prolific supporter of many HONORS First of its kind to accurately charitable organizations and a long- Lidia has received more than 50 time member of LDEI. “I think Les measure, set, and hold Dames is such a respectable organiza- major honors to date. Highlights cooking temperatures with include being nominated six times for tion. There’s so much mentoring and Best Chef in New York (for Felidia) exchange of information because of through-the-glass by the James Beard Foundation (JBF), the wide variety of members’ careers. sensor technology winning the award in 1999. Lidia was It’s an honor to join Julia Child as a named Best Outstanding Chef by JBF Grande Dame. I truly appreciate it,” and Probe Control™ in 2002. For her TV shows, Lidia’s concludes Lidia. Italy was named Best Cooking Show by JBF in 2009; “Lidia Celebrates America” was named Best Special by JBF in 2016 and 2017, and was The family in North Bergen, nominated for a JBF award in 2012 New Jersey. Lidia Tanya and Joseph and 2014. Other nominations by 1974. Lidia on set of “Lidia’s JBF include “Lidia’s Italian-American Kitchen.” Lidia in front of Buonavia brevilleusa.com polyscienceculinary.com #tempcontrolfreak

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 7 Sandra Gutierrez (North Carolina) WINS GRAND PRIZE IN LDEI’S M.F.K. FISHER AWARDS CONTEST

SANDRA GUTIERREZ it with my words. For year, I told my parents I wanted to be- Cary, North Carolina years, I wrote poems, come a writer and that I wanted to go Grand Prize and First Prize, and I filled many such the United States to study. It wasn’t Internet Category for books. As much as easy to convince them to let me go. I love words, I love My father (an oral surgeon), thought “A Voice from the Nuevo South” food even more. I it was a preposterous career choice. www.oxfordamerican.org/item/977 spent as much time in ‘You’ll starve,’ he told me. I now joke -a-voice-from-the-nuevo-south the kitchen as I could. I that those words led me to a career in www.sandraskitchenstudio.com apprenticed with an aunt who food writing, and that thanks to that I’ve was a caterer, hid in my grandmother’s never starved a day in my life!” By CiCi Williamson kitchen during large parties, and was Sandra attended Smith College in Mas- taught to cook by her staff. I took count- sachusetts and then moved to North Caro- (Washington, D.C.) less cooking classes, and discovered the joy lina, where her husband earned his M.B.A. “I’m speechless, and my husband will of cookbooks—all this while still in high at Duke University. tell you that seldom happens,” exclaimed school,” she explained. “Jokes aside, the food-writing career Sandra Gutierrez (North Carolina) upon Growing up, Sandra was very blessed with actually found me. After I married and hearing from LDEI President Stacy Zeigler the food philosophy at home. “We were had children, I continued my foray into that she had won $1000 and a trip to the taught to enjoy everything and anything we cooking. We moved to Toronto, Canada, Newport Beach LDEI Conference for first were given to eat and to be grateful that we for nine years, where I took every cooking prize in LDEI’s food writing contest for had plenty on the table. We learned to try course I could find—both in professional women. “Oh, my gosh, I won! You have everything once, and to savor simple meals schools and with chefs who were willing got to be kidding me. That is amazing! I like scrambled eggs with as much pleasure to teach me what they knew. I learned the can’t believe it. I’m floored and so grateful. and gratitude as those times when we got to craft of cake decoration up to the level of Thank you.” partake of a board filled with fancy French gum paste and fondant; learned to make Sandra’s winning story, “A Voice from the cheese and charcuterie. We have a saying pastry from a top chef in Canada; hired Nuevo South,” is about the Latino popu- in Spanish, Para alimentar a más personas, international cooks to teach me what they lation’s influence on Southern food and siempre se puede agregar más agua a la sopa. knew; and became a regular in every cook- the Guatemalan author’s personal insight That means, “To feed more people, one can ing school in the city. into assimilation, discrimination, and the always add more water to the soup.” That “I grew a cookbook collection in the hun- birth of food trends. “It was something philosophy taught us to share what we had dreds, and kept reading all I could about I wanted to write about for a very long with our friends. To this day, I find joy in food. By the time my husband moved our time but hadn’t been brave enough to do sharing what I cook with others.” family to North Carolina in 1993 to stay, I before,” she said. LIVING IN THREE COUNTRIES had gained experience with catering, recipe “However, given the sociopolitical realities Her residence route was circuitous. development, and cooking instruction. I of present days, I felt I needed to write Sandra, a U.S. citizen, was born in Phila- was finally ready to write about food, so about how difficult it is to find one’s place delphia, Pennsylvania, where her father was I applied for the food editor position at in a community. After all, I believe that getting his advanced degree in Maxilofacial my local paper, The Cary News. I’ve never the one thing we all have in common is a Surgery at University of Pennsylvania. The looked back,” said Sandra. She explains desire to belong somewhere; sometimes, Guatemalan family then moved to Con- more in her winning story. however, finding this place is easier said necticut when he became a fellow at Yale. “I became the first Latina food editor than done,” she admitted. “I moved to Guatemala City, Guatemala’s and columnist of a newspaper in Sandra’s path to becoming a food writer capital, when I was almost five years old North Carolina. It was 1996. My in 1996 began at an early age. “I read and remained there until I graduated from husband and I were settling into the incessantly and voraciously as a little girl. high school—the American School of small town of Cary, and we were the When I was around 12-years old, my father Guatemala. I started college at the Univer- only Latinos in our neighborhood. I brought me a gift from one of his travels; it sidad Francisco Marroquín as a Business had been at the paper a week when was called a ‘nothing book’ because, inside Major—that’s what my parents wanted me one of my editors received a letter the leather bound book, there were only to do, and although I excelled at it, I was from a disgruntled subscriber, upset blank pages. I immediately set out to fill very unhappy. After I completed the first that her beloved paper had chosen “a

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Mexican” to write the cooking section. chapter. A few months later, our group was It hurt. Not only because my family is made a chapter!” not Mexican (we’re Guatemalan), but Sandra speedily became a loyal member also because the term Mexican isn’t an and attended the 2016 LDEI Conference in Sandra Gutierrez insult, and she clearly meant it as one. Washington, D.C. “The spirit of camaraderie (North Carolina) I took the slight as a challenge and set among the members of LDEI is something out to prove her wrong.” indescribable, and that alone is already a WINS GRAND PRIZE IN LDEI’S Sandra studied Southern cookbooks vo- fabulous thing to experience. I particularly raciously, tasted Southern food at roadside enjoyed learning about the programs for M.F.K. FISHER AWARDS CONTEST stands, went to potluck dinners, and learned food diplomacy and the new ways to style to “cook Southern” in her readers’ own kitch- and photograph food. Our visit to The ens. By the time she left the newspaper in Library of Congress was truly wonderful, as 2004, “the same disgruntled reader from my were the meals shared together with other first week called to say she was sorry to have Dames and the field trips to museums. sent that letter; she would miss my columns,” ON MARY FRANCES KENNEDY she revealed. FISHER AND WRITING With over 1,000 articles published to date, “My favorite book of hers is The Art of Sandra has also written four cookbooks: The Eating. I just love to sit down to her writing New Southern-Latino Table (University of in total silence. The cadence of her words North Carolina Press, 2011); Latin American is inebriating and I find that I just want to Street Food (UNC Press; 2013); Empanadas: concentrate all my energy in soaking them The Hand-Held Pies of Latin America(Stew - all up. She has a way of telling stories and of art, Tabori, & Chang April 2015); and Beans explaining food history that fascinates me. and Field Peas: a Savor the South® cookbook Yet, I love her witty and sarcastic pieces that (UNC Press, 2015). describe characters and their relationship to In 2016, her Empanadas book won a Gour- food the best. I’ve never been able to read a mand award for single subject book from the book of hers in one sitting—they take time U.S., but Sandra seldom enters any contests. for me to digest, so I take my time and read She entered her winning story on a whim, them here and there,” confided Sandra. “when I read the email LDEI sent saying that However, food writing today has its chal- the deadline for entering was looming. Had lenges. Sandra opines, “The biggest challenge I thought for long, I probably wouldn’t have of the Internet era is that people are giv- entered. I felt good about writing this piece ing their work away without any monetary and decided to continue to ride the same wave remuneration. Not only has that driven the of courage that took me to put my thoughts value of all food writing down, it makes it on paper. It took me about one month to fine very hard for professionals to earn a living. tune the story, with the help of my great edi- Don’t give up your dreams of becoming a tor, Rebecca Gayle Howard, until we both felt food writer. Just don’t quit your day job. It’s it was ready to be published. not the easiest way to make a living, but it LDEI COMES TO can still be done, and it can be emotionally NORTH CAROLINA rewarding—not to mention delicious.” Sandra received the email about LDEI’s Finally, she says, “Winning this award contest because she recently became a Dame means even more coming from the Dames. in the new North Carolina Chapter. “Na- I’ve never felt so much support from my thalie Dupree (Charleston), who is not only peers before. I’m so very honored.” a first-class culinary doyenne but also one NOTE: of the biggest ambassadors that LDEI could At the Newport Beach conference, ever have, first talked to me about founding Sandra Gutierrez will receive her award on a chapter of Les Dames years ago. North Friday immediately after the keynote talk. Carolina is home to a very large number of Then on Saturday, she’s speaking on a Global women who are excelling in our industry. Culinary Initiative panel discussing “Immi- “Every time I saw Nathalie, she’d mention it grant Kitchens and a World of Flavors Influ- again. One day, she wrote to say that she and ence Modern Cuisine.” Hope you’ll be there. CiCi Williamson were coming to Chapel Hill to make a presentation, and could some of us help her to find a venue for an explor- Sandra with the appetizers she made for the atory meeting. We heard about the LDEI Atlanta Food and Wine Festival in 2016. Sandra with her mom and brothers, living in Guate- mission and about this amazing foundation mala. Sandra and her husband, Luis Gutierrez, made by women, for women, and one set in their home in North Carolina. Sandra with her to help other women in the industry, and parents, Dr. Ramiro Alfaro and Sandra de Alfaro, we finally understood the need to form a recently in Guatemala City.

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 9 BUTTER AUTHOR ELAINE KHOSROVA WINS BOOK CATEGORY

ELAINE KHOSROVA can’t wait to tell my editor. I’m so excited. “GROWING UP… Chatham, New York It’s such an affirmation, especially because …in a working class home, we had First Prize, Book Category: it’s in honor of M.F.K. Fisher—her work plain, routine, Anglo meals. My mother Butter, A Rich History is so inspiring to me.” emigrated from Scotland after meeting (Algonquin Books, 2016). Explaining her far-flung research, Elaine my American father (on leave from the said, “I knew that there were places—re- army) in Ireland. Meals were generally By CiCi Williamson mote regions—where I could actually wit- made from scratch. No TV dinners in our (Washington, D.C.) ness the ancient practices of buttermaking house, though many of the neighbors on instead of simply reading about them in our suburban block were turning to frozen Once she decided to write a book on a book or online. Sort of like time travel. and convenience foods. My mother, being the history of butter, Elaine Khosrova That’s what inspired me to travel to Bhu- a thrifty Scot, simply roasted or boiled travelled across three continents to search tan, to see the traditional practice of yak everything, using her only seasonings: salt out dairy traditions around the world. buttermaking and the culture that sup- and pepper. One or two times a year we’d Her stops took her to Bhutan; India; ports it (and has for thousands of years). go out to a local Italian restaurant that my Normandy and Brittany, France; Norway; In Europe, as in the U.S., I wanted to be father loved. That felt very exotic to me.” Ireland, England, and Scotland; and the immersed in the variations of terroir that The family of Elaine’s husband, the U.S. Elaine spent two years researching translate to variations in small and large Khosrovas, also immigrated to the U.S.— and writing Butter, A Rich History, her first batch butters. I was also dazzled by the his father is from Tehran; his mother, book. “Every stop was fascinating, but In- ghee shops in Jaipur, India, where many from Germany. “All of our parents who dia was the most surprising, butter-wise,” kinds of ghee are sold, from artisan and came to the U.S. were looking to escape she said. “The ancient style of churning is Ayurvedic to industrial.” the constraints and dangers of religious so different, and the traditional, cultured A food writer since 1989, Elaine “entered prejudice,” she said. water buffalo butter (increasingly a rare through the back door, by way of the test When asked what her advice is for up- thing) was unique and delicious—an kitchen at Country Living magazine. I and-coming food writers, Elaine joked: exquisite balance of acidity, lactones, and worked briefly as a dietitian after college. “Marry someone with money. But really, butteriness.” But I was much more interested in the I would tell them to work at being a good cultural aspects of food than the clinical storyteller. Not merely a reporter. Facts side, so I left to study pastry at the CIA. I and information may be of service to the worked as a pastry chef in New York City, reader, but what really grabs them, inspires but soon after my son was born, I lost all them, moves them, is a good narrative. interest in the exhaustive work and crazy That’s why I’d also recommend they pay hours of the restaurant world,” she admit- attention to the work of M.F.K. Fisher, a ted. “The test kitchen job was ideal.” master storyteller,” Elaine recommended. During her nine years at Country Living, “I have a 1954 hardcover edition of The Art Elaine was mentored by some very good of Eating, and a 1968 edition of With Bold editors—including New York Dames Knife and Fork. I have long treasured these Joanne Hayes and Lucy Wing—who books and the worlds within them that taught her the finer points of food and M.F.K. conjures. When I first read these recipe writing and about LDEI. “I’ve books, I marveled at her food sophistica- always been impressed with the group’s tion. (I grew up on a lot of beef and mashed philanthropy and its drive to promote potatoes.) Later as a published writer, I ap- Elaine churning butter in Bhutan. women in the culinary world,” she said. preciated her keen observations and reflec- Later on in the 2000s, Elaine worked tions, and the nimble way she could weave Although the media world has given her as the senior editor of a restaurant trade them together to make the reader feel both book much attention, getting recogni- magazine, Sante, where her writing entertained and enlightened. Her writing is tion from the food intelligentsia of LDEI received a 2007 Gold Folio Award, an always alluring to me for that reason.” made Elaine “so happy, so happy...I annual magazine media competition. Elaine is now remodeling her kitchen and can’t tell you,” she gushed when LDEI Elaine admits, “I haven’t entered many plans on using her award money toward President Stacy Zeigler telephoned her other contests!” Subsequently she was the purchase of a new convection oven. “It with the news that she had won first prize founding editor of Culture, a magazine will be a heartwarming reminder of win- in the 2017 Book Category and $500. dedicated to cheese. “Both of these jobs ning this wonderful award from LDEI, she “Oh my god, I could cry that this book put me in the position of helping nur- said, adding, “Even if I never sold another has been recognized by such an astute ture younger, newer food writers,” she book, this honor has been deeply gratify- culinary community,” she exclaimed. “I shares, “which I really enjoyed.” ing. Thank you!”

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International KATHY GUNST WINS FIRST PRIZE IN PRINT CATEGORY FOR BAKING EPIPHANY

KATHY GUNST her several times. Joe lived in Maine for a fall, Soup Swap South Berwick, Maine year in a town very near my town, and we (Chronicle First Prize, Print Category: became very friendly. I started writing for Books, 2016). “The Epiphany that turned me the Post several years ago.” “I love this into a good baker” “I always wanted to be a writer,” said book because published in The Washington Post Kathy. “But I didn’t think writing about it’s a soup food was ‘real writing.’ I began writing cookbook By CiCi Williamson about and researching food and found but it’s also (Washington, D.C.) myself fascinated. I began to understand about a style that writing about food involved so much of entertaining She’s the author of 15 cookbooks, Resi- more than simply writing recipes: it was that encour- dent Chef for the National Public Radio about history, and people, and religion, ages building (NPR) show “Here and Now”-heard on how we live and the choices we make.” community. In over 500 public radio stations nationwide, Kathy entered LDEI’s contest because these polar- and an award winner from James Beard “I liked the idea of a woman’s writing izing political and IACP. Kathy Gunst was nevertheless competition. I have always been a huge times it’s more nonplussed when LDEI President Stacy fan of M.F.K. Fisher and her work, and important Zeigler phoned her with the news that it would be a big honor to be recognized than ever to Kathy Gunst and rhubarb pie she had won first prize in M.F.K. Fisher by Les Dames. I have read almost all of bring people Awards Print Category. Fisher’s work. In fact I remember reading together,” she opined. “Oh, my gosh, so exciting. Thank you so Consider the Oyster and How to Cook a Of the 15 books she has penned, two much!” Kathy replied to Stacy. “This is so Wolf and thinking: ‘Oh, this is what food of her favorites are Notes from a Maine weird. I hadn’t thought about the contest writing can be’.” Kitchen (Down East Books), her love for a month, and then just this afternoon, I Other honors include a 2015 James letter to Maine. “Many years ago, I wrote was wondering who won. I’m honored and Beard Award in the Home Cooking cat- a book called Roasting that I still love and thrilled!” The London Cordon Bleu School egory for an Eating Well magazine story, use all the time. But it’s like picking your of Cookery graduate might put her $500 and an IACP award for her radio work on favorite child: at various points I have prize money towards building an outdoor NPR’s “Here and Now,” a weekly radio loved all my books,” said Kathy. wood-burning oven for pizza. food show she’s been doing for 12 years. “Despite free recipes everywhere, people Although her winning story was about “Talking about food on the radio is so do still buy cookbooks because noth- baking, Kathy never felt she was a “good” different than print writing. I am mostly ing can replace the pleasure of holding baker. “When I was asked to judge the at home alone writing most days, so going a book, leafing through it, and studying baking category for a very prestigious cu- to Boston and working in a newsroom on the photos and recipes, and then cooking linary competition, I told the head judge a live daily show is a thrill—still!!” Kathy from it over and over, stained pages and to switch my category. But she insisted. It said enthusiastically. “My goal with the all.” Kathy’s advice to writers? “It’s more was really judging that competition that radio work isn’t much different than my important than ever to have a voice that got me thinking about baking and what goal with all my work: to bring people to is truly yours. Don’t worry about keeping it means to be a good baker. And why I the table. To remind people that cooking up with all the trends, but be true to your never felt like I could bake,” revealed the and sitting down with family and friends style of cooking and people you admire.” rebel who seldom follows recipes. is one of life’s great pleasures. The biggest After four years as Culinary Editor of After reading baking books and baking compliment I receive is from listeners Food and Wine magazine, Kathy left to nonstop for two weeks, Kathy learned who tell me they were driving in their write her first cookbook. She moved to how important correct measuring was to car listening to the show, got inspired Maine for what she thought would be a baking recipes. She wrote her story for by a dish I described and they turn the year and never left. “Fifteen cookbooks The Washington Post’s Food Editor, Joe car around and head straight to the store and over four decades later, I still love Yonan, whose Deputy Food Editor is and get the ingredients and go home and what I do with a deep passion. I feel very Bonnie Benwick (Washington, D.C.). cook. That’s when I feel I’ve succeeded.” lucky to have work that I never want to Said Kathy, “I love Bonnie and have met Kathy’s 15th book was published last retire from.”

“For me, cooking is not about complex sauces and fancy techniques. I love garden fresh food cooked simply. That being said, I always try to twist and tweak recipes to keep things fresh and new.” –Kathy Gunst

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 11 SECOND AND THIRD-PRIZE WINNERS

BOOK CATEGORY INTERNET CATEGORY PRINT CATEGORY

SECOND PRIZE ($100): SECOND PRIZE ($100): SECOND PRIZE ($100): YASMIN KHAN CAROLYN PHILLIPS LAURA REILEY London, United Kingdom, Alameda, CA, Tampa, FL, author of The Saffron Tales for her story, “Good Graces” Food Critic, Tampa Bay Times, for (Bloomsbury USA). Excerpt entered: published at https://lifeandthyme. her article, “Farm to Fable” “RASHT. Tales of rice paddies and com/reflections/good-graces/ published in the Tampa Bay Times tea plantations” www.tampabay.com/projects/2016/ Carolyn Phillips food/farm-to-fable/restaurants/ Yasmin Khan is a writer is a James Beard and cook from London Award-nominated Laura Reiley is the Tampa who loves to share people’s food writer, scholar, Bay Times’ restaurant stories through food. and artist. She is the critic and a former critic An avid traveler whose author of All Under for the San Francisco passport is never too far Heaven and The Dim Chronicle and the Bal- from her pocket, she runs Sum Field Guide (both Ten Speed timore Sun. She is the cooking classes, pop-up supper clubs, and Press, August 2016). Her work has author of four books in writing retreats around the world. Prior appeared everywhere from in Best the Moon Handbook series: Florida Gulf to immersing herself in the fragrances Food Writing 2015 to LuckyPeach. Coast; Walt Disney World and Orlando; and flavors of the Persian kitchen, Yasmin com. She was a cultural consultant Tampa and St. Petersburg; and the Para- worked as a human rights campaigner, on the third Ghostbusters movie, and dise Coast. She has cooked professionally running national and international her weekly blog is Madame Huang’s and is a graduate of the California Cu- campaigns for non-governmental orga- Kitchen (MadameHuang.com). linary Academy. Laura was one of three nizations and grassroots groups, with a Carolyn worked for over a decade as finalists for the Pulitzer Prize in criticism special focus on the Middle East. Armed a professional Mandarin interpreter for her LDEI prize-winning work, “Farm with little more than a notebook and a in the federal and state courts, lived to Fable,” which exposed false claims of bottle of pomegranate molasses, the Brit- in Taiwan for eight years, and mar- food origins by many restaurants and ish-Iranian cook traversed Iran in search ried into a Chinese family almost farmers’ markets. Her work prompted of the country’s most delicious recipes for four decades years ago. state investigations into the claims and her book. Photo credit: Matt Russell other state-level regulatory changes. THIRD PRIZE ($50): Note: Laura is a restaurant critic and THIRD PRIZE ($50): photos of her are not published so she ELAINE CICORA can remain anonymous. CYNTHIA GRAUBART Macedonia, OH, Atlanta, GA, for her story, “Why I Garden” author of Chicken: A Savor the published at http://growforthmag. THIRD PRIZE ($50): South Cookbook (UNC Press). com/why-i-garden/ KIM ODE Entered excerpt: “Chicken and Me” staff writer, Minneapolis Star-Tribune, Elaine T. Cicora (Cleveland) has for her article, “Ooh, Can I Have a Cynthia Graubart (Atlanta) is a food been gardening, cooking and writ- Taste?” from her newspaper. writer, James Beard Award winning ing from her home in Northeast cookbook author, speaker, and cooking Ohio for the past 45 years. During Kim Ode (Minnesota) joined the Min- teacher. Her eighth cookbook, Sunday her 10-year tenure as neapolis Star Tribune as a staff writer in Suppers (Oxmoor House restaurant critic and 1985 and, along with being a general 2017) will be released in food writer for the assignment feature writer, October. Named a Geor- Cleveland alt-weekly creates the monthly “Bak- gia Grown Executive Chef Scene, she helped ing Central” feature in for 2017, she shares her usher in the city’s the “Taste” section. Kim passion for her home state now-stellar food grew up on a farm outside and its bountiful produce scene. In the process, of Sioux Falls where her and products with her au- she snagged awards from the James baking skills were honed diences across many platforms, including Beard Foundation, the Association in the local 4-H club, the recipe development for the nationwide of Food Journalists, the Society of Rowena Rustling Raisers. In 2002, she Atlanta-based meal kit service PeachDish. Professional Journalists and more. built a 3,000 pound brick oven, and life A frequent guest chef, private event chef, She has been a member of the changed, from joining a bread club to and personal chef, she brings a taste of Cleveland chapter of LDEI for nine writing her first cookbook, Baking with the south to every dish she creates and years and currently serves as chair of the St. Paul Bread Club: Recipes, Tips and serves, and joined her fellow Georgia the social media and communica- Stories. She’s also the author of Rhubarb Grown Executive Chefs to cook at the tions committee. She couldn’t be Renaissance. KIm teaches baking classes at James Beard House in June. more honored to receive this M.F.K. the North House Folk School in Grand Fisher Award. Marais, Minn. 12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Grande Dame Jerry Di Vecchio (San Francisco) on the initiation of the M.F.K. Fisher Awards: “In the late 80s, Mary Frances and I discussed the formation of our San Francisco Chapter and the creation of the M.F.K. Fisher LDEI Award. She had been im- pressed, in her own archly charming way, when years earlier, the New York Chapter presented her with the Grande Dame title. It predis- posed her to think kindly of Les Dames. When Antonia Allegra and I formally asked her to lend her name to the award that day in Glen Ellen, she was a tad coy about being the beacon light. “Mary Frances was a bit diffident about her own honors, and often shrugged them off as ‘not so important.’ However, she quietly savored the glow as a star—the star that she was. But what really brought her on board with donning the award her name was her first-hand experiences with career challenges that women face, especially if they have families, Dames Recall or run the whole show. She truly valued helping women move forward. the Grandest I know. She certainly supported me in my career, and I was blessed.” Literary Dame Maggie Mah (San Francisco) “In the mid-to-late 1980s, I went to Mary Frances’ house in Glen Ellen. My friend, Rosemary Manell, had known M.F.K. for many of All years and invited me to come with her. Her cottage was in the middle of a field on David Pleydell-Bouverie’s estate in Glen Ellen [Now the Edited by Antonia Allegra Bouverie Preserve at Audubon Canyon Ranch]. Cows roamed around, (San Francisco) grazing right outside the cottage windows. Inside, the cottage was filled with curious objects, eclectic artwork—interesting stuff everywhere. I Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher had the feeling of being in the quarters of a wonderful wizard. She was (July 3, 1908 – June 22, 1992) is taller than I expected. Advancing age and declining health had taken a known as one of the 20th century toll, but she remained lovely and elegant. What I remember about the essayists and food literature/mem- food is Mary Frances’ contribution: slices of cantaloupe melon served oir/travel writer of renown. Born with freshly ground nutmeg. I’ve repeated that over the years. in Michigan, her peripatetic life led “That was during a period of transition for me. At the end of the her to Europe, particularly France visit, Mary Frances presented me with a gift: a handful of what she and Switzerland, as well as Califor- called ‘Where-to-Go Beans.’ (Of course I still have them!) Each bean sported a unique black-and-brown pattern. She explained that when I nia. Her 30 books chronicled her felt the need for guidance, I was to roll the beans around in my hands, life in elegant prose that formed a toss, and then observe how the patterns lined up. Yes, she was quite devoted following, even to this day. like a wizard.” Her first book, Serve It Forth, was published in 1937, and she contin- ued to write until her later age. Her Joan Reardon (Chicago), author of Poet of the Appetites final home, in Glen Ellen, Califor- and Celebrating the Pleasures of the Table: M.F. K. Fisher, Ju- nia, is being restored with assistance of the San Francisco Chapter. lia Child & Alice Waters,” chronicled Mary Frances’ art of eating and living as the author she was, exploring ways that food and daily M.F.K. Fisher, as she was known life merge in intimate ways. From Poet of the Appetites, food historian publicly, loved life as much as food, Reardon states: “While she was not the first culinary memoirist, she as witnessed in this letter she wrote may well have been one of the first culinary confessionalists—or at to librarian friend, Laurence Clark least she portrayed herself that way. In an interview for a profile in Powell, reporting a restsurant meal Gourmet, she told journalist Elizabeth Hawes that she insisted upon in Dijon: “Oh, my god, how was calling her stories or memoirs ‘reports.’ ‘They are meant as the truth.’” the food?...the food just floated through the air. You reached up in the air and drew it down - marvel- Jeannette Ferrary (San Francisco), author of M.F. K. ous food!” Fisher and Me, based memories on her years of friendship and let- Here are some personal remem- ters with the writer. Of all the notes she shares, her awareness of Mary brances of her from Dames who Frances as “motherly” stands out as unique: knew her well. “Mary Frances often wrote notes on postcards that had a kind of con- nect-the-dots stick figure of a little smiling girl on one side. She sent this one to my daughter, Natasha, who was about six years old at the time and was learning to write cursive. I think Mary Frances’ response shows Photo by Richard Foorman a warm and motherly side as well as her irrepressible sense of humor.” Dear Natasha, I loved getting your letter, even though it is not in cursive or cursory or whatever that kind of writing is. Anything is better than a typewriter, I always say (but it’s useful in a pinch…) FALL QUARTERLY 2017 13 “First we eat, then we do everything else.” M.F.K. Fisher, Herself and Her Home

By Antonia Allegra (San Francisco) Walk with me to visit Grande Dame Mary Frances Kennedy Fisher’s adobe home on the Audubon Canyon Preserve in bucolic Glen Ellen, California. This home personified the woman through its very floors and tables and shelves, speaking volumes of the renowned literary woman, whose descriptors, according to M.F.K. Fisher biographer, Joan Reardon (Chicago), pointed out in her Poet of the Appetites: “…Mary Frances stretched the boundaries of a literary genre, or rather created a genre of her own… [She] was described as the ‘existential epicure,’ ‘an American Colette,’ ‘ a national treasure,’ ‘the doyenne of food,’ ‘ a culinary pornographer,’ and ‘the Sonoma Sibyl’…’

M.F.K. Fisher “Last House” to be Restored

Join Audubon Canyon Ranch (ACR) in the restoration of Last House, a project to restore the house and create a fund for ongoing maintenance and programs. With your help, ACR will establish Last House as a nexus for the things this beloved author treasured: connecting people over meals prepared by renowned chefs, supporting young authors, and enjoying the bounty of our local food and wine. If you’d like to support this Grande Dame’s “Last House,” go to: www.egret.org/mfk-fisher-last-house-restoration Audubon Canyon Ranch (ACR) is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, tax-exempt charitable organization (tax identification number 94-6069140). Donations are tax-deductible as allowed by law.

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International ortune shined when I moved now under the aegis of the Audubon Canyon her glamorous, sexy bathroom. Here, amid to live in St. Helena starting in Preserve in Glen Ellen near Sonoma, Cali- deep red walls, a mirrored vanity wall with 1987. By pure chance, one of fornia. She married twice and divorced both starlet lighting to frame her daily makeup the two homes I viewed when husbands, though her life always included sessions, drawing arched eyebrows on her seeking a home at that time was men, women, and family members near her. smooth forehead, we find the inner M.F.K., the 1955-1970 home of Grande the seductive woman. A massive bathtub Dame M.F.K. Fisher. The real Last House dominates the room. A silk kimono hangs estate broker merely mentioned So, now let us return to our tour of Mary on one side wall and the other wall presents a Fthat “some writer” had lived in the Victorian Frances’ Last House, where she welcomed panoply of art by lovers and others. house in town earlier. I chose the redwood “fans” from all walks of life as her form of di- Connected to the bathroom and also at the and glass “treehouse” where I’ve lived since version from tapping out stories on the ever- end of the main corridor is the second room: then, but later learned that other home, in ready typewriter in her bedroom. The home is her bedroom and studio. A simple bed in fact, had belonged to my favorite food-wine- now being renovated for historical purposes, an arched window space gazed onto a large lifestyle writer, the doyenne of food. partly due to efforts of the San Francisco painting of Provençale mountains. Framed Passing her Napa Valley dwelling nearly daily Chapter, guided by the chapter’s co-founder, honorary degrees and various photos covered on my way to the post office in town shares Jerry DiVecchio. It was Jerry who posed the another wall. Book shelves hugged tomes little about the brilliant star who was elected option of establishing an annual LDEI writ- brought by friends as well as her chosen liter- to the American Academy and National In- ing competition in M.F.K.’s name. At first, ary works by Alan Davidson and others. On stitute of Arts and Letters in 1991 just before the writing maven shied from accepting such entering the bedroom, her typewriter faced her death at age 86 in 1992. a nomination; however, spurred on by her the door, the world. But it was what was inte- How to learn of her ability to open daily life being named Grande Dame of Les Dames rior, in her brain, that dominated that room. and vivid characters and meals in France, Swit- d’Escoffier, and on realizing that women food I was present when she received early layouts zerland, and wherever she happened to live? and wine writers needed encouragement, she for her story, Boss Dog. She pored over each Peruse any of her 30 books and/or numerous beamed a glowing smile and agreed to what word, each comma. She noted and attacked essays, primarily written for The New Yorker. has become an award of esteemed recognition. any changes from her original words and/or She wrote her life via splendid observations, Entering Last House, let’s skirt walking punctuation like a falcon attacking prey. She weaving webs that caught readers who became on the slippery cattle guard that fronts the was a woman driven by her own words. captives of this canny woman’s descriptive, building and step up to the simple front door. A recollection: It was also in that bedroom humorous, humane style. Mary Frances usually kept a simply-typed that I remember rubbing Mary Frances’ Why did she sport the byline, “M.F.K. note of welcome on the welcoming wall. Walk bony feet during her last years. At that time, Fisher,” instead of using her full name? Mary on the Oriental rug at the entry, one of many overtaken by Parkinson’s that had spirited Frances was well aware that most essayists in rugs throughout the house, spilling color away her use of voice, she clearly relaxed a bit print during her early years were male. Ergo, and history at our feet. Some steps down to when feeling soft hands on her heels, ankles when submitting stories to magazine editors, the right lead us to the large living room, the and toes. That was our mode of communica- she avoided the skew away from female writ- most spacious room in the house. tion when I’d drive over the mountain that ers by using her initials only. What a surprise Bookcases, a wood-burning stove, and a rose between her wine valley and mine. There to the editor on eventually meeting her in his large black globe decorated with collage art she was—a mute queen of communication, office in New York City! add interest. Tucked on the shelves are Santon separated from the millions of words she had The young woman—part spunky-prickly figurines from Provence, small pitchers from shared with her readers. Katherine Hepburn, part literary queen Ticino and other mementoes of her travels. Although our tour-de-M.F.K. force is now spouting voluminous vocabulary—charmed The room is bathed with light from windows complete, the fondest way to complete it is all in her path. Her innate sense of hospital- at the kitchen and its opposite wall and from to make a path to her work. Read her words ity oozed from her simple table into elegant a large balcony area where she sits often in her to learn the rhythm, the stories, the presence prose describing such simplicities as tangerine high-backed woven chair, stretching her arms of M.F.K. herself as she traveled and lived her segments drying on an apartment radiator in sheer relaxation. This large room includes a life, sharing it with us, at whatever stage she in wartime France to writing The Cooking of dining table where it was normal to join ser- was and we are. Provincial France for the famed Time-Life se- endipitous visitors from the local rose nursery, Antonia Allegra, author, career/writing coach, ries of cookbooks. To know her writing voice, neighbors, and The Washington Post or Los An- teacher and public speaker, is a charter member of the San Francisco Chapter of LDEI. She founded merely read her. geles Times who conversed with Mary Frances until Parkinson’s disease overtook her body. the Symposium for Professional Food Writers and the During her life, Mary Frances traveled Symposium for Professional Wine Writers. and lived in Hollywood (where she wrote as She spent her last years stretched on her bed. screenwriter for Paramount Pictures), France, Despite slowing physically, visitors continued, M.F.K. 1942-43 while screenwriter for Paramount Switzerland, New York, Hemet (California), just to be within spiritual base of the wizened Pictures/Hollywood. Photo by Man Ray. Detail, Mississippi, St. Helena, and finally in the “goddess.” Last House. Photo by Faith Echtermeyer. M.F.K. Now, let’s step back into that welcoming at Last House, late 1980s. Photo by Allan Gerson. elegant small adobe “palazzino” built for her Glen Ellen Last House living room. Photo by Faith by David Pleydell-Bouverie whose land is corridor and take a little turn to the right into Echtermeyer.

“It is very simple: I am here because I choose to be…I move about fairly surely and safely in my palazzino, and water the plants on the two balconies. I devise little ‘inside picnics’ and ‘nursery teas’ for people who like to sit in the Big Room and drink some of the good wines that grow and flow in these northern valleys. I work hard and happily on good days, an on the comparatively creaky ones I pull my Japanese comforter over the old bones, on my big purple bedspread…and wait for the never-failing surcease. “

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 15 LDEI 2017 International Board’s July Meeting in Cleveland: Yes, Cleveland Rocks!

By Bev Shaffer conference room to begin our usual getting (Cleveland/Northeast Ohio); down to business. 2nd Vice President, LDEI Board Midway through our discussions, we were joined by Jodi Berg, President and CEO of It was a first visit to Cleveland for nine Vitamix, now celebrating its 96th year in LDEI Board members—and they didn’t even business. She inspired and motivated us with know there were so many things that make the company vision, mission, and values. Cleveland the best! A few Board members had A conference call followed with Co-chair fleeting moments between meetings to enjoy Trina Kaye (LA/OC) of the Newport Beach the sunshine (we have actual seasons!) and Conference, and we were excited to hear visit or glimpse: land, founder of the city (No. The city was updates on this outstanding, upcoming event. • The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame – opened not named for U.S. President Grover Cleve- The Board then discussed what special raffle in 1995 on the shore of Lake Erie land, a former Governor of New York.) items will be obtained this year to entice • West Side Market - the city’s oldest in- • A wedding at the Arcade - a Victorian- everyone to buy tickets in support of LDEI. door/outdoor market space, built in 1912, era structure of two nine-story buildings The financials were reviewed by Treasurer featuring over 100 food vendors joined by a five-story arcade with a glass Deb Orrill (Dallas), and I requested the • Progressive Field - the Cleveland Indians’ skylight spanning over 300 feet) Chapter Board Liaisons (CBLs) review their baseball stadium FRIDAY, JULY 14 job description/manual for suggestions on • Severance Hall - the Cleveland Orchestra’s Our meeting began at Vitamix® World how to improve the position, possibly rede- beautiful 1931 concert hall, listed on the headquarters in Olmsted Falls (a southwest- fining communication with chapters. The National Register of Historic Places ern suburb of Cleveland) where we enjoyed a productive meeting ended at 6:15 p.m. • Public Square - the four-block downtown special lunch prepared by the culinary team. The Board then enjoyed a dinner at Jackie central plaza that was part of the original After a quick demo on new machines, we Bebenroth (Cleveland) and her husband, 1796 town plat overseen by Moses Cleave- took our computers and notes to an adjacent Ben’s restaurant SPICE Kitchen & Bar, where 16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Top Row: Severance Hall. Photo Courtesy of ThisisCleveland.com by Larry E. Highbaugh, Jr. From left: Elaine Cicora, Cynthia Eakin, Stacy Zeigler, Shara Bohach (Foldi), Beth Davis-Noragon, Hayley Matson- Mathes, Deb Orrill, Britt Marie-Culey, Greg Jewell, LDEI Executive Director, Maria Gomez-Laurens,, Julie Chernoff, Bev Shaffer, Kathy Gold, Ann Stratte, Deborah Mintcheff, Marty Nagele. Photo: Hayley Matson-Mathes. West Side Market. Photo Courtesy of ThisisCleveland.com. Public Square. Photo Courtesy of ThisisCleveland.com by Larry E. Highbaugh, Jr. Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Photo Courtesy of ThisisCleveland.com. From left: Julie Chernoff, Ann Stratte, Maria Gomez-Laurens, Deb Orrill, Bev Shaffer, Deborah Mintcheff, Judy Bellos, Kathy Gold, Stacy Zeigler, Vitamix Senior Culinary Manager Adam Wilson, Hayley Matson-Mathes. Photo: Hayley Matson-Mathes. Jodi Berg, President and CEO of Vitamix, an LDEI partner. Photo: Hayley Matson-Mathes. Flag in Hyatt Hotel Lobby where the board meeting was held. Photo: Mike Mathes. “Rock” sign. Photo: Mike Mathes. Cleveland skyline. Cleveland sign and Progressive Field. Photos Courtesy of ThisisCleveland.com by Larry E. Highbaugh, Jr. most of their items on the Chef’s Tasting meeting members of the Cleveland/North- Menu we enjoyed were grown or raised on east Ohio Chapter at Britt-Marie Culey’s SPICE Acres, their farm in the Cuyahoga uber cool Coquette Patisserie. Perfect Valley National Park. weather complemented fabulous food and SATURDAY, JULY 15 lively discussions with the chapter’s Shara Bohach, Elaine Cicora, Crickett Karson, Our meeting began early and we Beth Davis-Noragon Marty reviewed the Conference sponsorships , co-presidents Nagele Cynthia Eakin (Patron and Partner Programs), the 2018 and , and of course, Conference in Seattle, and chapter growth. Britt, along with some spouses who joined Secretary Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.) the celebration. Judy Bellos called for a final vote on the proposed new (St. Louis) had to fly home chapters in Charlotte, North Carolina, after Saturday’s meetings, but the remainder Bev Shaffer and New Orleans, Louisiana. Both new of the Board including (found- chapters had completed all the necessary ing member of the Cleveland Chapter), Stacy Zeigler, Hayley Matson-Mathes, paperwork and were approved. Deborah Mintcheff, Ann Stratte, Deb Also included in the two full days of board Orrill, Kathy Gold, Julie Chernoff, Maria meetings were updates, discussions, and Gomez-Laurens assignments regarding: the Grande Dame , and our own “Le Dude,” award, Affinity program, chapter insurance, Executive Director Greg Jewell grazed and M.F.K. Fisher’s last house, international enjoyed lively conversation. The out-of-town trips, archiving photographs, photographic Board members were gifted with wonderful permission forms, and much more. Cleveland-themed goodie bags that will re- The LDEI Board then had the pleasure of mind them of two just-visited “gems”—the city and our LDEI Chapter!

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 17

3582 Kerrygold Ad / Les Dame d’Escoffier 1/3 page / 2.4722x10.25” 9/28/16 rose de Heer design Green Tables: Hawaii and San Antonio Chapters Focus on Educating Children, Reducing Hunger

Jan Yap and Kai’ulani Cowell

By Amy Myrdal Miller Dames have worked closely with the military members in need. In ad- (San Francisco and school offering weekly nutrition les- dition to learning about the food Sacramento), Co-chair, sons, and assisting with food tastings bank’s various programs, Dames also LDEI Green Tables and demonstrations. visited the San Antonio Food Bank Wellness Day is part of a group garden, which provides fresh produce Supporting School Wellness effort organized by the administra- to community members. Programs in Hawaii tion, physical education, and LDEI The San Antonio Chapter works members. The day is partially funded This past February, Hawaii Dames closely with Time Dollar San An- by grants from Kokua Hawaii Foun- Kai’ulani Cowell and Jan Yap served tonio helping to launch their first dation, which is supported by singer fresh tomato and green onion pasta community garden. Time Dollar San Jack Johnson and his wife Kim. Their seasoned with Kai’ulani Spices to Antonio is a community develop- generosity provides the students over 450 students, teachers, and ment organization that uses the with healthy snacks, a dynamic cur- administrators for Liholiho Elemen- time banking system to build the riculum, and supplies for a thriving tary School’s Wellness Day. After community through an exchange of school vegetable garden. devouring their samples students soon members’ time and talent. It’s a hand started shouting, “May we please have Promoting Food Security up—not a hand out—of neighbors seconds?” in San Antonio helping neighbors to improve the Students from kindergarten through Members of the San Antonio Chap- community. San Antonio Dames are fifth grade learned about preparing ter and event co-chairs Susan Jaime, involved educating people on gar- delicious food with locally sourced Dion Turner, and Linda Triesch dening as well as conducting cooking ingredients. Students loved the aroma toured the San Antonio Food Bank classes. Silbia Esparza, Executive of fresh garlic and green onions that this spring to learn more about the Director of Time Dollar San Anto- filled the room. They were eager to food bank’s efforts at fighting hunger, nio, was awarded the Legacy Award share recipes and the health benefits providing hope in the 16-county by our Chapter for her work and of spices with their parents. service area, and creating future self- inspiration to the community. For the fourth year in a row Liho- sufficiency. San Antonio Dames also work with liho School, located in Honolulu, Improving food security is the the local Junior Master Gardeners to received the Award for Excellence priority for the San Antonio Food start school gardens in seven elemen- in Wellness, granted by the Hawaii Bank, which provides assistance tary schools to educate children about Department of Health. The Hawaii through a variety of programs and gardening, as well as cooking and Chapter has been an integral part resources available to families, enjoying the fresh produce students in this achievement since 2013. The individuals, seniors, children, and grow in their gardens.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Les Dames d’Escoffier THE FIRST FIVE YEARS PART TWO By Susan Fuller Slack Alliance and is a chef, cookbook antique music box collection.” (Charleston) author, and noted television person- “We have continued to gain in ality.] stature these last six months (January- This is the second installment of a “An evening with M.F.K Fisher. June 1977),” Carol recounted. “The report from the summer Quarterly that A super supper event (at a reason- name Les Dames d’Escoffier appears focuses on the early years of Les Dames able price) is being planned by Mary twice in the Escoffier Museum guest d’ Escoffier, New York (LDENY)—the Eckley with our Grande Dame book [In Villeneuve-Loubet, France]. founding chapter of Les Dames d’ number 2, in person.” The listing was printed in their news- Escoffier International. LDEI founder “The publication of a Les Dames letter and distributed internationally.” Carol Brock poses the questions, cookbook including recipes from the Publicity began to appear nation- “What did we do in the first five years? premiere banquet [Carlyle Hotel], ally about the organization, which What did we think of ourselves? What of LDENY) gave $200 to print the from a Loaves and Fishes Brunch, Carol faithfully documented. “In did others think of us?” Journal in a grand manner [and said] quiche recipes from our postponed the last few months, articles [on the To find out, let’s refer to Carol’s ‘because I believe in Les Dames, and picnique, Daphne voyage recipes, premier dinner and scholarships] personal archives in which she I want it to succeed.’” [Today, the and recipes dedicated to the Grande appeared in Washington, D.C., chronicled the new chapter’s mission, premier publication of LDEI is the Dames—a requirement of the Alabama, Arizona, and Texas. We daily activities, and strategic plans. Quarterly.] scholarship winners. Also, recipes are listed in the new column, “The Here are excerpts and “A black-tie reception Escoffier dedicated to women from Working Women,” in the July Ladies’ fascinating notes from with M.F.K. Fisher in the the [Les Amis d’Escoffier] dinner in Home Journal and on radio on the her jottings and from wood-paneled hallway our honor and favorite recipes from first Stendahl program covering one of her first “Dear rooms of the famed New cookbooks written by members.” Epicurean and dining organization. Dames” president’s York Public Library on “Geri Trotta, assisted by Mary Our scholarship winners were on the letters, which also was 42nd Street. The library Homi, plans to offer a great-buy, a Patricia McCann's radio show. Laura a detailed planning acquiesced since there were ten-day trip to Paris and Côte d’Azur Maioglio [chef/owner of the famed document. Carol so many distinguished in the fall for Dames and friends… restaurant Barbetta] has been taped wrote, “With only six cookbook authors in Les and a holiday shopping fundraiser— for the Jack O’Brian show. People, months of 1977 com- Dames, and we planned Boutique Culinaire—is marked on Places, Parties Magazine mentioned pleted, we’ve added to raise $1 million for the the calendar.” the dinner and listed the officers of a number of firsts to Les Dames’ library to fund Les Dames d’Escoffier Sylvia Schur (second president of Les Dames.” accomplishments.” Reading Room. Dinner was catered LDENY) corresponded with Jane S. “Roger Fesaguet of the Vatel An important one was the initia- on the mezzanine overlooking the Fenderson who was the Appointments Club [former chef of four-star La tion of three Grande Dames. Carol foyer and was followed by a program Secretary to Rosalynn Carter, the wife Caravelle] suggested Les Dames be recorded them, “Julia Child [at the in the Board of Directors Room of President Jimmy Carter, about a represented at a planning session for Hotel Carlyle]; culinary philoso- with [Oscar-winning actress] Celeste Dames’ visit to the White House that a 150th anniversary celebration to pher M.F. K. Fisher; and culinary Holm reading from M.F.K.’s works. was to be rescheduled due to a Presi- benefit The Escoffier Museum and historian Helen Duprey Bullock, It made for an incredible evening! dential trip to South America. to have a chair set up at the Culinary accepted by William Rice, food edi- M.F.K. sat on a desk girlishly swing- “A formal dinner for 135 for Institute of America.” tor of The Washington Post.” ing her legs back and forth as she was $125.00 a plate…a salute to young In Carol’s writings, she observed, “A special dinner was hosted by the interviewed. Julia Child had been women chefs at the Waldorf Astoria “Behind all these firsts are the Dames gentlemen of Les Amis d’ Escoffier in the receiving line with her dear under the leadership of Leslie Revsen, who supported the events and those at the Culinary Institute of America friend, M.F. K.” the first woman chef to wear a toque who made them possible putting in honor of Les Dames with dishes “Scholarship was always our objec- in a major New York hotel kitchen. forth time, talent, and money, too… Escoffier had dedicated to women. tive…three scholarships. Our first. Craig Claiborne was the speaker… The phone calls, postage, paper, And we asked merely to be invited to The first time women chefs were the tomato sorbet was made from to- messenger service, and printing the organizational meeting last May! apprenticed aboard a U.S. ship—the matoes grown in our Vice President’s picked up by members …can’t be The menu was printed on the nap- first ship [the Carras Lines’ M.S. garden. After dinner, demitasse was counted, nor can the time involved kin,” Carol wrote. [During the event, Daphne] to dock in Cuba in 16 sipped in the ballroom’s foyer to the and expertise offered. Six members she was presented with a medal from years. [Scholarship winners on the accompaniment of music from an donated money for the guests at the the Escoffier Museum and, in turn, “jazz cruise” were Sandra investiture, which was matched to the Dames presented Les Amis d’ Gottleib, Joyce Keolian, start the scholarship fund.” Escoffier with a sketch of Les Dames and Sarah Moulton. Sarah “Suzanne Pierot and Irena Chalm- in a gold frame.] went on to found The New ers offered their homes for informal “A Champagne chat with famed York Woman’s Culinary events. Cecile Cuming offered her Hungarian Chef Louis Szathmary Above: penthouse apartment, white wine, and Mrs. Szarthmary at the Grolier Carol Brock, and strawberries for a rap session. This Club, at which a number of male founder of has made it possible for Les Dames culinary luminaries unexpectedly LDEI; three to have a bank deposit of $1,500 appeared.” [Larger-than-life, Chef Grande (before dues) at the end of our first Szathmary was a writer-philanthro- Dames M.F.K. fiscal year—so necessary for financing pist and pioneering force in the food Fisher, further events,” Carol penned. service profession. He operated The Julia Child, Watch for the third installment of Bakery restaurant in Chicago.] and Helen this report in the winter 2018 confer- “Our premier issue of the Journal. Bullock. ence issue of the Quarterly. Irena Chalmers (third president FALL QUARTERLY 2017 19 CHAPTER PROGRAMS Nina Mukerjee Furstenau (St. Louis) ANN ARBOR | ATLANTA | AUSTIN | BIRMINGHAM | BOSTON | BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA | CHARLESTON | CHICAGO CLEVELAND/NORTHEAST OHIO | COLORADO | DALLAS | GREATER DES MOINES | HAWAII | HOUSTON | KANSAS CITY/HEART OF AMERICA KENTUCKY | LONDON, ENGLAND | LOS ANGELES/ORANGE COUNTY | NORTH CAROLINA | MEXICO | MIAMI | MINNESOTA MONTEREY BAY AREA | NASHVILLE | NEW YORK | NEW ENGLAND | PALM SPRINGS | PHILADELPHIA | PHOENIX | PORTLAND SACRAMENTO | SAN ANTONIO | SAN DIEGO | SAN FRANCISCO | SEATTLE | SOUTH FLORIDA | ST. LOUIS | WASHINGTON, D.C.

Becky Stayner and Brook Bell coordinated plans to reach Alabama ATLANTA Cathy Pennington senators and representatives asking them to make funding decisions Our second quarter events started with a Green Tables event on that put us on track to end hunger by 2030, reject budget cuts than April 26th at The Museum of Design Atlanta. We peeked into the increase hunger, and protect vital policies and safety-net programs. future of food by design with innovations in sustainable food and Individual letters, signed by our Dames, were delivered in person by agriculture. In May, Lauren Carey worked with Peachtree Road Becky on July 18. A profile on LDEI was included. Farmers Market’s 20-plus local farmers and artisans for an evening of beer and foods from S&J’s Wood Fired Pizza, Heritage Farm proteins grilled on a Big Green Egg, whole grain salads, dishes BOSTON Lucille Giovino from Crepe Masters and Flora & Flour Biscuit Sandwich, Sarah In June, Louisa Kasdon celebrated her 2nd Annual Readable Feast O’Brien’s goodies from Little Tart Bakeshop, and foods from King event, a Cookbook Awards Ceremony and Cocktail Party at the of Pops and Taco Wednesdays by our own Jenn Robbins. Boston Public Library, the first free municipal library in the United In June, we gathered at King Plow Arts Center with catering by States. The library’s spacious area was packed with food aficionados, Bold Catering and Design to welcome nine new Dames—Leila cookbook lovers, and media. It was a grand event honoring New Bryan, Mallory deGolian, Shirley Hughes, Natalie Keng, Englanders who are writers, educators, chefs, farmers, food activists, Mandy Landefeld, Denise L. Picket-Bernard, Sarah O’Brien, and nutritionists. The awards ceremony included several categories Susan Pavlin, and Christy Simo! It was a fabulous evening with with Mary Ann Esposito winning Lifetime Achievement Award for innovative and interactive food and beverage offerings as well as being a positive role model and mentor, making numerous contribu- several fun raffle items. Special thanks to Stacy Zeigler. tions to the food industry and the culinary scene.

BIRMINGHAM Martha Johnston CHARLESTON Susan Slack Spring and summer were busy for Birmingham Dames. On May Our new officers for 2017-2018 are: President Gina Stouffer, Past 9, Pardis Stitt invited our book group to Chez Fonfon to discuss President Paige Crone, Vice President Jen Kulick, Secretary Lisa The Belly of Paris by Emile Zola. In the spirit of the book, we gath- Buzzelli, and Treasurer Susan Wigley. On August 15, the chap- ered at a large table in the garden to enjoy wine along with a simple ter celebrated with a Julia Child’s Birthday Potluck in the grand evening meal. Also in May, Birmingham Dames gave a $1000 ballroom of the regal American Theater on Upper King Street. The grant to Urban Ministries in honor of Ama Shambulia, director of sophisticated, 1940s-era, event venue showcases Art Deco architec- West End Community Garden & Café. A $1000 scholarship was ture and Hollywood-style glamour. Each Dame provided a spectacu- awarded to Daphne Jones, culinary and baking/pastry student at lar dish featuring a recipe from one of Julia’s cookbooks. Jeff State Community College in July. LDEI Charleston is pleased to welcome 15 new members: Kristen Idie Hastings of OvenBird hosted a social hour for members and Bland (High Wire Distilling), Becky Burke (The Culinary Institute potential new member nominees in June. She served a specialty of Charleston, hospitality law professor), Chelsey Conrad (Butcher cocktail along with tasty bites directly off the fire. A previous event & Bee, executive chef), Michelle Diminich (The Culinary Institute was held in the garden at Becky Satterfield’s home. of Charleston, adjunct instructor), Jennifer Ferrebee (Verde, owner), Pardis Stitt asked Birmingham Dames to join her at Bottega Café Wendy Gleim (The Wickliffe House, owner/chef), Robin Griffith on June 14 for a Champagne Campaign presented by Jonathan (City of Charleston, assistant to the mayor), Katie Hajjar (FISH, Thomas of Grass Roots Wines. The group tasted four Champagnes general manager), Jessica Henson (The Country Vintner, fine wine with companion appetizers. All who attended agreed that it was a sales representative), Helen Mitternight (blogger/freelance writer), wonderful primer on Tina Schuttenberg (Caviar & Bananas, merchandise director), grower Champagnes Elizabeth “Bea” Shaffer (Callie’s Biscuits, regional manager), Jessica available at Bottega, Slaughter (Fig/The Ordinary, director of administrations), Lauren other independent Utvick (recipe developer/food writer/stylist), Sara Whitaker (Le restaurants, and local Creuset, brand manager). wine stores. This tast- This year, the Charleston Chapter has awarded nearly $20,000 in ing adventure was a scholarships to nine worthy women in food and hospitality. celebration indeed! CHICAGO Amelia Levin The Chicago Chapter welcomed 11 new and talented members, Champagne Cam- paign at the Bottega including cookbook and culinary fiction writers, a wine publicist and Café in Birmingham, wine sales director, a baker, a chef apparel retailer, a literary agent, a left to right: Guest catering and nutrition communications partner, an online radio host, Paden Reich, Jan The new Gautro, Pat Terry, Chicago Chapter Gia McCollister, members! Back Carey Thommason Row, left to (new member nominee), Leigh right: Margaret Sloss-Corra, Angela Schmidt, McSweeney, Kerry Kelley, Martha Johnston, Lisa Miler, Dobra Martha Johnston, Susan Swa- Bielinski, Amy gler, Becky Satterfield, Katherine Collins, Stacey Cobbs. Left to right: Becky Ballis. Middle row, Satterfield, Birmingham chapter left to right: Liz president, scholarship recipient Barrett, Yvonne Daphne Jones, and Tiffany Den- Maffei. Front row, son, scholarship committee. left to right: Unah Choi, Susan Weller.

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International and two marketing and branding gurus! Here’s the complete list: DALLAS Meghan Meehan Our annual fundraiser in late spring, “A Dame Good Party,” was a record- Stacey Ballis, author, How to breaking event, resulting in $70,000, the chapter’s highest grossing event Change a Life; Liz Barrett, own- to date for our scholarship fund. The chapter is also excited to welcome er, What’s in That Bottle; Dobra seven new members to be inducted in the fall: Rachel Gangler, Andrea Bielinski, owner and baker, Gates, Audree Miller, Dena Shaskan, Roxanne Snow, Jennifer Uygur, Delightful Pastries; Una Choi, and Anne Vanbeber. Welcome ladies, we’re Dame happy to have you! owner, Choi Brands Inc.; Amy Collins, founder, Squid Ink The Dallas team- Literary; Kimberly Keslin, wine building happy hour Yvonne sales director, LD Vins; Chicago Dames played bocce and this summer toasted Maffei, cookbook author and enjoyed an Italian-inspired potluck this the outgoing board founder, My Halal Kitchen; summer, hosted by Dame Gina Voci. for a great year and Caroline Margolis, partner, Shown here: Dames Liz Barrett, Veronica to welcome the Sweet Chickadees; Margaret Hastings (President) Dana Benigno, incoming board. McSweeney, host, Kitchen Chat Sharon Olson, Ed Voci, husband of Dame Back to front, left to Gina Voci right: Sally Bollick Radio and podcast; Lisa Miller, Strong, Katie Natale, marketing director, Ornua Foods Sandy Breuss, Joanne North America; Susan Weller, owner, SW Strategies. Bondy, Sharon Hage, Also this summer, Gina Voci and her husband, Ed, hosted a memorable Margie McAllister, evening of bocce ball, Negroni cocktails, and an Italian-themed potluck Courtney Luscher, dinner at the bocce courts near her home in the Chicago suburbs. Jennifer Brightman, Barbara Messer, Suzanne Felber, Robin Plotkin, Meghan Meehan, Lisa Stewart, Renie Steves, Laurie Bostic, Tara Anderson, Carol CLEVELAND/NORTHEAST OHIO Ritchie, Kersten Rettig Jess Lindawan GREATER DES MOINES Karen Davis The Cleveland Chapter held its annual potluck and membership drive at The Greater Des Moines chapter held Crickett Karson’s home on Monday, June 26. More than a dozen chapter Dogpatch Urban Gardens Program in members were present, as well as four professional women of distinction August. Attendees took a tour of a local interested in potential membership. We look forward to seeing some new farm owned by Jenny Quiner in the faces at our next member event! heart of metro Des Moines. Jenny, who On Saturday, July 15, Britt-Marie Culey hosted a reception for LDEI left teaching to be a full-time farmer, Board members at her celebrated Coquette Patisserie. Representing the talked about how and why she started Cleveland Chapter were Shara Bohach, Elaine Cicora, Crickett Karson, her project and how she makes a living Beth Davis-Noragon, Britt-Marie Culy, and co-presidents Cynthia doing it. The program also focused on Eakin and Marty Nagele. Bev Shafferwas present as both second vice micro greens, including what they are president of the LDEI Board and a founding member of the Cleveland and why they are important. Chapter. (See pages 16-17 for Bev’s report.) Cleveland Dames held their 2nd annual city-wide SummerDine fundrais- Jenny Quiner’s farm in Des Moines. Event ing event on Wednesday, August 16. Fine restaurants in the city donated guests toured the farm in the heart of one table for two-to-10 diners to enjoy dinner in a unique location in metro Des Moines, learned about micro the establishment. We were thrilled to have participation from EDWINS greens, and making a living on the farm. Leadership & Restaurant Institute, Fire Food and Drink, Paladar Latin Kitchen & Rum Bar, Spice Kitchen + Bar, and several others! HAWAII Kathi Saks Our chapter continues to embrace COLORADO Megan Gray Stromberg our mission of education these past few The Colorado Chapter is thriving, and we have planned a great lineup months by launching a new website of events through the end of the year. At annual meeting, we took to the (www.ldeihawaii.org) enabling the public tropics with a “Flamingle” theme, sharing stories of summer travel. This to connect with us in new ways. Our photo shows us blowing kisses to Kimberly Lord Stewart, past Colorado educational demo series began with Green Tables Chair and Board Member) who was unable to attend the Amy Bender of Kai Spirits pairing four meeting due to surgery. very different cocktails with dim sum at Yauatcha Waikiki. Jackie Lau from HFM hosted two demos this summer: “How To Host A Party (And Still Enjoy Yourself)” and “The Fish From Tip to Tail – Full Fish Demo for Everyone.” Jackie Lau presents “The Fish The former gave participants valuable from Tip to Tail: Full Fish Demo information on how to expertly plan a for Everyone with Mū or Bigeye party for 10 people and up to 200 in Emperor,” a grouper. Photo: Mike Mathes your own home. The fish demo included a trip to Honolulu’s famous fish auction with a hands-on demo and guests creating their own fish en papillote. Eleven new members were welcomed to our chapter with a range of very interesting backgrounds while Dames enjoyed a wonderful lunch at The Halekulani Hotel overlooking the Pacific. KANSAS CITY/HEART OF AMERICA Judith Fertig From left to right: Carol Fenster, Sally Davidson, Megan Gray Stromberg, Milk from Missouri, rennet from Guatemala, and the expertise of a Lee Clayton Roper, Carrie Stebbins, Michele Morris, Sandra Dugan, chef whose family came from Sicily all contributed to an informative Shellie Kark, Elizabeth Buckingham, Jordan Blakesley, Jan Findlater, Beerly Cox, Andra Cirbo, Jane Bauer, Marcia Kramer, Meghan Bucholz, Melissa and delicious hands-on class, “Make-Your-Own-Mozzarella Boot Camp” Severson. Photo: Megan Gray Stromberg on July 25. Chef Jasper Mirabile guided a full class through the process:

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 21 making and then heating the cheese curds, massaging them together, then retary Sue Carter, Vice President Chrissie Walker, Mary Pateras (host), pulling the cheese to get the right consistency. He also showed us how to Melanie Reeve, and Gina McAdam. The evening started in the beautiful make ricotta and buratta. And then we got to sample them in an heirloom conservatory with its views over the extensive grounds. We enjoyed fine tomato caprese and a summer pasta topped with just-made ricotta. wine, seafood and salads in the restaurant and exchanged ideas for future Chapter events, including Edible London 2018! KENTUCKY Gina Brown, Lisa Windhorst, Jamie Estes Our chapter’s Green Tables recently partnered with Lettuce Learn, the ed- MIAMI Ellen Kanner ucational outreach program of Let Us Learn, to do a cooking class with 19 Spring and summer are when the enthusiastic elementary and middle school children at a local farmers mar- Miami Dames gather for three sig- ket. The program focused on helping children learn how to make healthy nature events, our Tropical Brunch food choices and make them taste good, too! Our goals to bring food and in the Garden, our Legacy Scholar- farm education to children intertwined beautifully as each chef took her ship Lunch and our Bastille Day group of little chefs through the market to pick fresh produce from the celebration. local farmers, and taste different cheeses, vinegars, oils, and produce. They April found us in lush Pinecrest learned about nutrition through eating local, healthy fruits and vegetables; Gardens enjoying a slightly over- then received a hands-on lesson on how to prepare them with healthy cook- the-top brunch prepared by Dames Left to Right: Scholarship Recipient ing methods. Attending were Sherry Hurley, Rhona Bowles Kamar, Gina and local chefs. Decked out in Stephanie Hricik, Miami President Brown, Maggie Freeman, Valerie Samutin, and Lisa Windhorst. The spring frocks, our members and Alejandra Bigai, past president Doro- young cooks learned to make everything from peach and tomato salsa to friends sampled from stations of thée Rubin, and scholarship student fruit salads and marinara sauce. Students also learned to sauté and to quick- cheeses and pâté, quiches, pastas, Kylie Philipps. pickle. It was a rewarding, inspiring, and delicious experience for all! salads and dazzling desserts. We In the summer, board member Chef Katie Payne hosted members at a tasted, talked laughed and celebrated — with good reason. The Tropical Tamale & Tequila class at Sullivan University. Members sipped on margari- Brunch has traditionally been one of the Miami chapter’s most popular tas while watching Katie demonstrate making tamales. The festive spread fundraisers. Over 120 people attended this year’s event—our ninth annu- iincluded ceviche, empanadas, various salsas and chips, and guacamole; al—raising enough for one scholarship for our 2018 scholarship program. members also made their own tamales to take home. A big thanks to Sulli- Just a few weeks later, we gathered at Brava, the restaurant of Miami James van University for donating the food, and to French Lick Resorts & Casino Beard Award nominee Bradley Kilgore, for our annual Legacy Lunch. This and Michele Bowling for supplying the tequila. is where we get to see our fundraising efforts pay off in the happiest way. We were proud to award three scholarships — our most ever — to three Three young chefs participate in the deserving women: Stephanie Hricik, Les Dames Miami Legacy Award; Ky- Kentucky Green Tables Let Us Learn lie Philipps, Les Dames Miami Nutrition Award; Nicole Patten, Les Dames cooking class. Tamale and Tequila class, left to right front row: Traci Miami Farming Award. Badenhausen, Michele Bowling, Lisa Then in July, we returned to Brava for a Bastille Day fete, featuring a Tour Windhorst, Gina Brown and special de France of wines paired with fabulous French nibbles. With close to 100 guest chef James Moran. Left to right, Dames and friends participating, the event generated enough funds to cover back row: Liz Weimer, Anne West, operating expenses for this fiscal year. Vive la France! Vive Les Dames Miami! Jamie Estes, Katie Payne, Maggie Freeman and Jeremy Downs. Photos: Estes Public Relations MINNESOTA Ingrid Gangestead Minnesota Dames supported Urban Roots, our Green Tables partner, in hosting their second Pizza Party on July 20. After building an outdoor pizza oven in the garden space, community members experienced farm to fork within a few feet of one another. Urban Roots hosted pizza parties throughout the summer to raise funds for their youth leadership and inner city gardening initiatives. Dames helped prepare dough and ingredients with young participants of the program.

NASHVILLE Erin Byers Murray On April 23, Nashville’s Green Tables committee, led by Melissa Corbin and Sylvia Ganier, co-chairs, hosted its first “Tour de Farm: Beyond the Bend” event to rave reviews. The event started with a day-long farm tour offered to VIP ticket holders. Guests hopped on a bus and toured five area farms, meeting the farmers as well as many Nashville Dames, including Sarah Worley, Kitty Fawaz, Nealya Parish, Anne Byrn, Tallu Quinn, LONDON, ENGLAND Chrissie Walker Members of the London Chapter enjoyed a charming evening of conver- sation, wine and food at the celebrated Hurlingham Club in West London. It was a privilege to visit this exclusive estate with its sweeping lawns, tennis and croquet courts, and its long history. Before 1066, Hurling- ham and the surround- ing area belonged to the Bishops of London. The land changed hands many times over the passing centuries and in Dames Paulette Licitra, Nealya 1867 The Hurlingham Parish, Melissa Corbin, Anne Byrn, Club for pigeon-shoot- Marylou Tate, Dawn Southworth, ing matches was formed Tallu Quinn, Mara Papatheodorou here. The pigeon is still at Tour de Farm in Nashville. Photo by Christen Clemins. Dames Mindy emblazoned on the Merrell, Maneet Chauhan, Jessica Club’s crest. From left: Sue Carter, Gina McAdam, Melanie Collins. Photo by Christen Clemins Attending were Sec- Reeve, Mary Pateras. Photo: Chrissie Walker.

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Jennifer Justus, Paulette Licitra, and Marylou Tate, who prepared light PHILADELPHIA Natanya Dibona bites and beverages with farm ingredients. After the tour, the VIP guests On a gorgeous June morning, Philly Dames traveled to the Delaware Riv- were joined by more than 150 others at Green Door Gourmet for a stellar er estuary to visit Sweet Amalia Oyster Farm where marine biologist turned Mindy Merrell, Maneet Chauhan Jessica Collins meal prepared by , and . farmer, Lisa Calvo, explained the growing process of oysters, one of the Cara Graham and her restaurant Lockeland Table also provided a course, most sustainable food products. Standing on the sandbar as the tide rolled as well as the premiere sponsorship. The event, which included a silent in, we ate freshly shucked oysters auction, raised more than $20,000 to support our scholarship efforts. The from Lisa’s custom-made rowboat/ chapter was able to fund three culinary-focused internships for young wheeled cart/oyster bar. Afterwards, women through Nashville Mayor Megan Barry’s Opportunity NOW pro- we visited the Willow Creek Winery gram, as well as five career advancement grants. for a wine tasting and lunch. With Carla Hall In July, (Washington, D.C.) returned to Nashville to host a the oysters, the vines and the ocean, Homecoming and Dinner on the Ground, also at Green Door Gourmet, it was a magical afternoon! where families gathered for good tunes, and a down-home feast prepared by Next, we celebrated the summer Carla herself. solstice with an exclusive tour of the rooftop garden of Sofitel Philadel- NEW YORK Beth Allen phia. Participants met with Edward On May 17th, over 25 New York Dames and friends gathered at Chocolat Handcock, the Sofitel’s executive Moderne for a delicious seminar with Chocolatier/owner Joan Cou- chef, and Don Shump, apiarist, and kos, and Kathryn Gordon, chef-instructor at the Institute of Culinary sampled cocktails and small bites Education (ICE). They showed melting dark, white and blond chocolates; made with garden-fresh ingredients. pouring these into molds to make the outer shells; chilling; piping in cara- Green Tables threw a Summer Gar- mel fillings; sealing the bottoms with more chocolate; more chilling; and den Party to benefit the Farm at Bar- unmolding. Chef Gordon demoed two Valrhona ganaches and tempering tram’s Garden. It sold out with over chocolate. Thomas Aabo of New World Spirits Company mixed Solbeso 150 attendees. The following Dames cocktails; Chef Jessie Riley of Constant Cravings brought magnificent hors worked with the farm’s young interns d’oeuvres. Our sincere thanks to: Chocolat Moderne New York’s staff, Val- to create dishes for the party using Angie Brown, Lynn Buono and Nat- rhona Chocolate, Solbeso, Constant Cravings, and the students from ICE. the farm’s produce: Ange Branca, anya DiBona: planners of the Summer We left with our handmade chocolate bars and other goodies! Angie Brown, Lynn Buono, Kathy Garden Party at the Sweet Amalia On April 20th, 19 Dames and friends took a sourdough baking at Cook- Oyster Farm, July 20thDames Ange Gold, Aliza Green, Jaquie Kelly and Branca (left) and Moon Krapugthong ing by the Book with experts Suzi O’Rourke and former Dame Priscilla Moon Krapugthong. The Restau- (right) prepping with Tykia, student Martell (preeminent bread-baking author and teacher). We rolled up our rant School at Walnut Hill College intern at Sweet Amalia Oyster Farm. sleeves, floured our hands, mixed and kneaded dough, and shaped loaves. opened their kitchens to the chefs They demonstrated: preparing and nurturing sourdough starter; mixing and students to prepare the meal. Additional Dames sponsors included Irene by hand, mixer, and food processor; forming boules and baguettes; and Silver from Party Rentals, Ltd, Lynn Buono’s Feast Your Eyes Catering, and baking in Emile Henry burgundy clay bakers and the Jenn-Air steam oven Basia Pearson’s Health Waters. Manatawny Still Works also provided two for super crispy crusts. We tasted it all—delicious boules, baguettes, and aptly-named specialty cocktails: The Summer Dame and Femme Fleur! It freshly-baked focaccia, along with cheeses and charcuterie from Murray’s was a great party that raised $4,000 to support the Farm! Cheese. We left with starter samples to feed and dough to bake plus sensa- tional goody bags, thanks to generous sponsors Emile Henry, King Arthur SACRAMENTO Elaine Corn Flour, J.K. Adams Co., and Jenn-Air.

PALM SPRINGS Pam Bieri

Suzanne Ashworth leads Sacramento Dames through Del Rio Botanicals.

About 30 Dames roamed beneath the foliage of a 100-year-old fig tree Enjoying an alfresco luncheon in as if it were a house. We tasted horseradish leaves, lovage, pineapple sage, May for our New Members meeting lemon verbena, stevia, tarragon, hissop, tejocote (a type of hawthorn), at The Café at Shield’s Date Garden arugula, kumquats, blackberries, Pakistani mulberries, and Luther Burbank are (left) Ellen Woods, Janet Harris, spineless nopales. The event: a visit to Del Rio Botanicals, pioneer in Dawn Rashid, Andrea Rosenblatt, America’s farm-to-fork foods in the Sacramento region, located on the west Kathy Schriefer, and Lisa Wherry with guest Mary Hurtja. On the side of the Sacramento River in fecund Yolo. The farm, owned by Suzanne right (front to back) are guest Ashworth, is located on land that helped make Sacramento known for speaker Heather Raumin and guest farm-to-fork foods. Nicole Winslow with Dames Sue Rappaport, Diana Wentworth, Mary Clare As she led the group, Suzanne carried her clippers in a holster and grabbed Mulhall and Pamela Bieri. Heather Raumin, whose family owns Shields Date leaves and flowers for us to taste. Suzanne, a highly-regarded local grower, Gardens, talked about the history of the gardens, established in 1924, and seed saver, and author of Seed to Seed: Seed Saving and Growing Tech- updates and expansions, including the popular Café, since they acquired niques for Vegetable Gardeners, saves heirloom seeds to sell from her library ownership. Lisa Wherry (left), LDEI Palm Springs vice president, and Andrea of beans, mustards, and every imaginable legume and brassica. Chefs Rosenblatt, LDEI scholarship committee liaison for Rancho Mirage High secretly compete for those seeds to claim a menu exclusive. Because our School, present a certificate and bouquet of flowers to Janelle Vidal, LDEI 2017 scholarship awardee, at the school’s scholarship awards ceremonies climate allows it, Del Rio operates year round, offering than 1,600 fruits, recently. One of the first class to complete all four years of Rancho Mirage vegetables and herbs, cheese from its goats, wine grapes, and hops. After High School’s culinary arts program, Janelle will be attending UCLA in the our tour, lunch, in the farm’s barn, was provided by Janel Inouye, owner of environmental science program with an emphasis on food science. Sacramento’s Magpie restaurant.

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 23 vegetables judged. The Dames partnered with The Don Diego Foundation SAN ANTONIO Nichole Bendele to meet the children and escort them to the fairgrounds. We enjoyed the Our June biennual meeting was held at the John Peace Library at the Uni- enthusiasm shown by the next generation of San Diego county farmers! versity of Texas San Antonio, whose collection of Mexican cookbooks com- prise nearly 1,700 volumes from 1789 to the present (open to the public by appointment: www.lib.utsa.edu/cookbooks.). For dinner, Dames packed a SAN FRANCISCO Jennifer Newens picnic...and traded with a fellow Dame! (Fun idea by Susan Johnson and On May 6, we sponsored a fundraiser in support of our annual Karola Nancy Fitch!) Deliciousness included pickled veggies, fried quail, artisan Saekel Craib Excellence in Food Journalism Fellowship. The event was cheeses, wine, enchiladas, gazpacho, and flan. Yum indeed! held at Peony restaurant in San Antionio also held a “Dames Pool Party” fundraiser at the La Cantera Oakland’s Chinatown and Resort & Spa’s Topaz Pool with Live Music and Cocktails chaired by featured cookbook author Crystal Dady and Diana Barrios Trevino. Linda Triesch, Di-Anna Arias, and Chinese food expert Dya Campos, Mary Dunsford, Julia Rosenfeld, Wendy Stiles, Donna Carolyn Phillips (an LDEI Vaughn, and Lisa Wong helped with Green Tables initiative Time Dollar 2017 M.F.K. Fisher Award Community’s Mother’s Day Plant Sale. winner, see page 12), who generously donated her time to talk about dim sum, its SAN DIEGO Kari Volyn traditions and etiquette. The We’ve been busy this quarter! Renee Gillmore (Grossmont College) and talk was accompanied by a Alexis Wells (Art Institute of San Diego) received scholarships for tuition, multi-course dim sum feast, equipment, books, and supplies. In May, Jodi Abel, Mineko Moreno, a traditional Chinese tea cer- Teresa Palzkill, and guest Veronica Morena, visited Suzie’s Farm, a 70-acre emony, and live zither mu- May 2017 Fellowship Fundraiser at Peony, family farm and a leader in organic farming in San Diego. While learn- sic. Each recipient received a left to right: Olivia Wu, Mollie Katzen, ing about the farm, farming methods, and the business of agriculture, we copy of Carolyn’s book, The special guest Carolyn Phillips, JH Huang and picked in-season crops including cucumbers, eight ball round squash, yel- moderator Sarah Fritsche Photo: Elaine Corn Dim Sum Field Guide; her low squash, sunflowers and strawberries. A docent shared the history of the book, All Under Heaven, was farm as we walked the fields. A beautiful day and many wonderful dishes also available for purchase. The co-chairs, Roberta Klugman and Jennifer were prepared with the produce harvested. Newens, welcomed the more than 60 guests, whose contributions helped In June, the San Diego chapter met for a potluck dinner at Teddie Lewis’ raise more than $3,000 for the fellowship. home and welcomed new member Mia Saling, an attorney who represents The fellowship recognizes the late journalist Karola Saekel Craib’s restaurants, wineries and breweries. 50-plus year food-writing career. The monetary award is given annually The San Diego Chapter’s Green Tables also participated in sponsorship of to a promising Bay Area woman food journalist as an acknowledgement the Plant-Grow-Eat bus for elementary school children. Local elementary of good works and as an encouragement to stay in food journalism. Past students grow radishes at school and learn about cultivation, harvest, etc. recipients include Novella Carpenter, Sarah Henry, Twilight Greenaway, Then, each participating classroom visits the San Diego fair to have their Emily Thelin, Jessica Battillana, Rachel Khong, and Lisa Morehouse.

PERUVIAN FUNDRAISER IN ST. LOUIS (held over from summer Quarterly) By Lori Willis Benavides said he was honored that the Dames had chosen to spotlight The St. Louis Chapter held a suc- Peru, and with the current challeng- cessful “Passport” dinner in April es the country is facing, it was good that transported their guests to Peru. to have their people and traditions “It is people like you (Dames) who celebrated through food. A cocktail will make our world better,” re- reception of savory Peruvian appetiz- marked one of 120 guests who were ers, wines, and signature Pisco Sour greeted by a llama and Andean musi- cocktails preceded opening remarks cians at the fundraiser. Thanks to the by President Priscilla Ward who generosity of a host of sponsors, this helped set the stage for the seven- year’s “Passport to Peru: Destina- course, family-style meal featuring tion Machu Picchu,” raised close to traditional flavors of Peru trending $7,500 for Operation Food Search in global cuisine today. Chef Mary (OFS) and thrilled Sunny Schaefer, Noble of Ces and Judy’s worked with OFS Director. ingredients that Peru has given the The Global Culinary Initia- world including potatoes, tomatoes, Honorary Consul Francisco M. Benavides (in black) tive (GCI) fundraiser, led by GCI chats with St. Louis President Priscilla Ward, her beans, chilies, and quinoa, to prepare husband Wallace, Roberta Duyff, and a dinner Co-chair and nutritionist Roberta a variety of popular Peruvian beef, guest. Photo: Lucian Matoushek. Chef Mary Noble Duyff and Judy Bellos, Co-owner, chicken, shrimp, and vegetarian greets guests who raved over the delicious cuisine. Ces & Judy’s Catering, designed dishes. Guests left with a gift bag of At far right stands LDEI Board member Judy Bellos, the multi-sensory event for people co-owner of Ces & Judy’s Catering, one of St. Louis’ Peruvian spices, culinary informa- most popular social and corporate caterers. Guests to learn about and experience food tion, and a piece of handcrafted pot- dined on Peruvian dishes such as Causa (Peruvian cultures across the globe. Peru’s tery courtesy of OFS and ceramist Potato-Vegetable Terrine) and Tres Leche con Honorary Consul Francisco M. Bob Allen. Mango (Creamy Sponge Cake with Mango). Photo: Lucian Matoushek

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Mount Vernon ST. LOUIS Priscilla Ward Horticulturist Dean CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.) flew to St. Louis on June 7 to give Norton talks about her talk, “Kitchen Confidential: How the Culinary Scenes for Downton George and Mar- Abbey Were Filmed,” for the chapter’s program and dinner held at Mary tha Washington’s Ann’s Tea Room. CiCi’s talk is based on an interview she did at “Edible vegetable garden. London” of Lisa Heathcote, the British food stylist who produced the foods Photo by CiCi for the six-year series. Nearly 40 Dames and guests enjoyed recipes from the Williamson. From left: Julia Rutland, cookbook, The Book of First Vice President, Household Management, Membership, and by Mrs. Isabella Beeton new members (London, 1861), which Diane Welland, was used extensively Sophia Maroon, during the Edwardian Carole Sugarman, period. The dinner was Christina Ricchi, held in a 1921 histori- Monica Thomas, cal building that existed Katherine Miller, and Sheila Crye. during the “Downton Not pictured: Abbey” period. Several Wendy Bazil, Edie Dames and guests dressed Burns. Photo by in period clothing. The CiCi Williamson. program was chaired by Beth Heidrich’s mother Judy Custer, Roberta From left: Dames Marilyn Freundlich and Duyff, Andrea Custer, Beth Heidrich, CiCi Wil- Janice McLean, Priscilla Ward. liamson. Photo by Priscilla Ward. Laurie Bell, Nona Nielson-Parker, Drew Faulkner, WASHINGTON, D.C. Laurie Bell Ann Stratte, and Slogging through puddles and an almost-constant downpour, 62 attend- Laurie Weber ees stayed in good spirits for the May 11 all-day tour of “Mount Vernon: tour Atwater’s George and Martha Washington’s Bountiful Gardens and Table.” The tour production facility was led by Joan Bacharach, senior curator for the National Park Service, in Baltimore. Photo and Co-organizer CiCi Williamson with talks by curators and archeolo- by G. Dodson. gists. After lunch at the Mount Vernon Inn, we toured George Washing- ton’s Grist Mill and Distillery and enjoyed a rye whiskey tasting. Congratulations to our new members who were inducted at the May 6 spring annual meeting held at Nora Pouillon’s Restaurant Nora. Nora has retired, so it was a last chance to dine at her certified-organic restaurant. Also in May was “The Exotic Art of Blending Spices” at Choolaah Indian BBQ in Fairfax, Virginia. Simran Sethi, culinary director, gave a lesson on masalas and a demonstration of making and baking naan in a tandoor oven. Although Washington, D.C., is known mostly for making laws and not sausages, the chapter offered three food production tours in May and June—one of them where sausages ARE made. Debra Moser and husband Mitch Berliner hosted a visit to MeatCrafters in Landover, Maryland, the only USDA-licensed facility to cure meats in Metro D.C. or Maryland. Nona Nielsen-Parker, production manager, led a tour of Baltimore’s famed Atwater’s “Big Kitchens” where food for six restaurants is prepared. And Susan Sorenko conducted our seventh sellout “Moorenko’s Ice Cream Fac- tory Tour and Tasting” at her Silver Spring, Maryland, facility.

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FALL QUARTERLY 2017 25 MEMBER MILESTONES Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia)

ATLANTA BRITISH COLUMBIA Spur Award for her Virginia Willis announced her new Caren McSherry is proud to announce children’s book, Sissy meal kit line with Chef’d. Other Chef’d the publication of her seventh cookbook, Bear at The Fort. The culinary partners include The New York Starters, Salads and Sexy Sides published book, detailing Holly’s Times, Food Network’s by Appetite. The launch was October 5. childhood with her Melissa D’Arabian, pet bear Sissy, also and world-renown CHICAGO won a Finalist Award chef Dominique Toria Emas was from the Colorado Crenn. The meal kits celebrated as Dame Arts and Humanities Holly Arnold Kinney feature Virginia’s sig- of Distinction at the Council. nature style of cooking chapter’s Annual “Refined Southern Dinner & Meeting DALLAS Michele Esposito Cuisine.” Photo: Virginia Willis in June, which took Angie Mosier place at Maria Con- Brown earned the cannon’s Don Juan Toria Emas Certified Executive BOSTON Restaurante. Toria has worked tirelessly Pastry Chef (CEPC) Gloria Cabral, CCE, on numerous scholarship committees, was designation from the AAC, was inducted a founding member of the Legacy Awards American Culinary as a fellow into the program and consistently volunteered for Federation Inc. Chef American Academy of the American Foundation of the Blind. Brown is a member Michele Esposito Brown Chefs in July at Dis- Mary Nguyen Aregoni, owner of Saigon of The Texas Chefs neyworld. The AAC Sisters restaurant, was featured in the May Association, Dallas Chapter, and is the credential represents Executive Pastry Chef of Dallas’ Brook Gloria Cabral 2017 issue of Chicago Magazine. www. the highest stan- chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/ Hollow Golf Club, a full-service private dard of professionalism in the American May-2017 country club established in 1920. Culinary Federation and in the industry. Gloria is a professor at Bristol Commu- CLEVELAND LONDON Ashley James nity College in Fall River. Photo: Paul Maria Isabella published her latest opened her first restaurant Martin Photography cookbook, Chefs & Company: 75 Top in London, England in April. Stagolee’s Denise S. Graffeo, Chefs Share More Than 180 Recipes To serves authentic Southern American food! CEC, AAC, HOF, Wow Last-Minute Guests. The book offers http://stagolees.co.uk was inducted into the an incredible collection of recipes and a MONTEREY BAY American Culinary rare and exciting glimpse into the private Arlene Mead Hall of Fame of the home kitchens of 75 culinary superstars’ received American Culinary meals in an hour or less. the Chef of the Year Federation. She is the Award from the Bev Shaffertaught another standing Monterey Bay Chap- first women to achieve room only, hands-on-class at the Fooda- this esteemed honor. Denise S. Graffeo ter of the American mentals Studio at the National Restau- Culinary Federation. After delivering her “Cracked the Glass rant Show in Chicago. Her topic for this Ceiling” speech she received a standing It was presented at the year was: “Chocolate: Sweet, Savory and 2017 President’s Gala. ovation from the 500+ dinner guests. Sassy.” Participants were able to taste, Photo: Mark Gooby Arlene is a former Arlene Mead grate, mix and enjoy two delightful dishes Chef Instructor Louisa Kasdon celebrated her 2nd An- featuring Guittard chocolate. at Rancho Cielo Drummond Culinary nual Readable Feast event, a Cookbook Academy and now serves on their board. Awards Ceremony and Cocktail Party, at COLORADO the Boston Public Library. This spacious Teresa Farney, food NEW YORK area was packed with food aficionados, editor at The Gazette Marion Nestle ad- cookbook lovers, and media who honored in Colorado Springs, dressed staff, visitors, New Englanders who are writers, educa- was named the and exchange fellows tors, chefs, farmers, food activists, and 2017 Outstanding on food politics at the nutritionists. Media Professional Stone Barns Center Denise Drower for Colorado by the for Food and Agricul- Swidey, as supervis- Colorado Restaurant ture in Westchester Association. The ing producer, helped Teresa Farney County. She also award was presented chaired a session at the launch “The Food Marion Nestle Flirts,” a new national at the organization’s annual Industry United Nations held PBS cooking show Spotlight Award dinner on June 27. in conjunction with its High Level Politi- starring Marilynn and This is the fourth year for the media cal Forum on preventing obesity as part Sheila Brass. The sis- award presentation. of the agency’s Sustainable Development ters are tackling their Denise Drower Swidey Holly Arnold Kinney, proprietress of Goals. Photo: Billy Hayes culinary bucket list, The Fort, won Finalist for the National one bite at a time. More at: deniswidey. Western Writers of America Golden com. Photo: Carl Tremblay 26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International NORTH CAROLINA recipes for easy soups from around the globe resume also includes conducting the culinary Jamie DeMent’s new book, The Farmhouse paired with quick, savory breads to match. curriculum at Poway Adult School and culi- Chef: Recipes and Stories from My Carolina www.ivymanning.com nary instructor for May Department stores, Farm (September 2017) features recipes for M. Eleni Papadakis was Cuisinart and Coffee Imports International. robust meals she prepares for family, crew, an expert juror for the Mia Saling was invited to speak at The Special and farm interns using crops from Coon Asia Wine Trophy 2017 Event 2018, a national conference being held Rock Farm, where her family raises heirloom in Daejeon, South Korea, in New Orleans. The title of her presentation produce and livestock on 55 acres of Pied- August 27 to September is: “Trademark Law vs. Marketing Strategy: mont farmland in Hillsborough. 3. Eleni also presented a The Power of Suggestion,” Mia is an attorney Sandra Gutierrez won grand prize in LDEI’s Master Class on “Oregon at Moonlight Law specializing in the represen- M.F.K. Fisher Awards Contest (see cover and Pinot Noir – A Winemak- tation of restaurants, wineries and breweries. M. Eleni Papadakis pages 8-9). er’s Perspective,” while at SAN FRANCISCO Vivian Howard recently won the 2017 South- the international competi- Kathy Strahs ern Book Prize in the category of cooking for tion and trade fair. announced Deep Run Roots: Stories and Recipes from My the publication of The ST. LOUIS Corner of the South. The book also received the Lemonade Stand Cookbook Roberta Duyff IACP Cookbook of the Year award. , award- (Burnt Cheese Press, May winning author, an- 2017) a step-by-step illus- Hadassah Patterson launched a gluten free nounced the fifth edition trated children’s cookbook startup, Triangle Gluten-Free, LLC, which is a of her Academy of Nutri- all about empowering kids Kathy Strahs gluten free-only production company special- tion and Dietetics Com- Roberta Duyff ages 6 to 12 to get cook- izing in savory baked goods and pickup meals plete Guide of Food and ing, get crafty, and become entrepreneurs. that will be primarily wholesale to retail. The Nutrition (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, April Photo: Paul M. Bowers venue will also feature special events, pop-ups 2017). It is widely recognized as the ultimate dinners, and farm dinners. resource for practical, accurate healthy eating SEATTLE Coleen Speaks, chef and owner of PoshNosh, information for individuals and families. Roseann Finkel, co- has opened Whitaker & Atlantic, an urban owner of Seattle institu- event space, and Hummingbird, which is a SAN ANTONIO tion, Pike Place Brewing, cafe by day and a small plates and craft cock- June Hayes of Los Patios is hosting monthly at Pike Place Market is tail bar by night. events at Salado Creek Market. The events opening Tankard & Tan encompass a mix of art, antiques, producers, Restaurant above the Stephanie Tyson and Vivian Joiner, chefs growers, and artisan foods as well as individ- brewery. The restaurant and owners, relocated their 14 year-old ual booths with people selling one-of-a-kind concept, which goes Roseann Finkel restaurant, “Sweet Potatoes (well shut my wares in San Antonio. beyond the excellent pub mouth!!) a restaurant” to a larger venue in Susan Jaime, Master Roaster and Q Grader, food that Pike Brew- Winston-Salem in June. They also opened a ing offers, is focused on smaller restaurant offering Pan Fried Chicken Ferra Coffee Roasters, opened her first retail operation—a coffee roasting facility and PNW seafood and foraged called Miss Ora’s Kitchen. The restaurant’s products. name, theme and menu pay homage to Chef espresso bar—in San Antonio. Susan’s coffee Stephanie’s grandmother. has been served in the Hyatt Hill Country Marie-Eve Gilla, found- Resort, Driscoll Hotel and Travaasa, NAO, ing winemaker and man- NEW ENGLAND Botika, and El Narajo. aging partner of Forgeron Marie-Eve Gilla Tracey Medeiros Anne Ng of Bakery Lorraine opened May- Cellars (est. 2001) in published her 4th book, belle’s Donuts and Fried Pies in the newly Walla Walla, was recently awarded White The Vermont Non-GMO opened food hall of the historic Pearl District Wine of the Year for her 2014 Columbia Val- Cookbook (Skyhorse Pub- in San Antonio. ley Chardonnay, by a distinguished panel of lishing, October 2017). It wine judges for Seattle Magazine’s Washing- Lisa Wong honors the state’s mis- , owner of Rosario’s Mexican Café ton Wine Awards. Photo: Kathryn Elsesser y Cantina, Rosario’s Mexican Café y Lounge, sion to connect with its Anne Nisbet Tracey Medeiros Rosario’s-Airport, and Acenar, was awarded is culinary director of The local organic farmlands International Pinot Noir Celebration—in its and farmers who nurture and care for them a ten-year, $100 million city contract for operation of river barges and concessions on 28th year, in the Oregon Wine Country. The and celebrates them along with producers, celebration July 27-30 brought together Wil- cheesemakers, dairies and chefs to create deli- the San Antonio River Walk with her newly formed company, Go Rio San Antonio. lamette Valley Wineries and northwest chefs cious, innovative, organic, non-GMO recipes. in the vineyards. Photo: Debra Somerville SAN DIEGO SOUTH FLORIDA Jodi Abel’s cooking event company, Lajol- PHILADELPHIA Claire Tomlin, chapter Valarie Costanzo opened her Sweet Charlie’s lacooks4u, received the Trip Advisors’ 2017 certificate of excellence for the third consecu- president, produced and Rolled Ice Cream shop in June in historic hosted the 2nd Annual downtown Haddonfield, New Jersey. tive year. It is given to top attractions that consistently receive high ratings from travelers Tomato Festival in August around the world. Lajollacooks4u has 245 at the Boothbay Harbor PORTLAND Yacht Club in Maine, Ivy Manning announced the publication of five star reviews—a testament to its high- quality programs and services. where she is a summer Marie-Eve Gilla her sixth cookbook, Easy Soups From Scratch resident. Chef Paulette with Breads To Match (Chronicle Books, Teresa Palzkill, chapter president, retired Bilsky demonstrated classic and nouveau September 2017). The book offers cooks 75 after 32 years in public education. Her tomato recipes. Photo: Irene Moore.

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 27 WASHINGTON, D.C. EDITION Hotels, W Hotels, JW Marriott Stacey Adams, owner Hotels & Resorts, The Luxury Collection, IN MEMORIAM and executive chef and Le Meridien. of Tastings Gourmet Janet Cam was filmed for a China Central Flo Braker Market in Annapolis, TV segment, “Recipes for Life,” featuring sto- (San Francisco) 1939-2017 was honored on June 27 ries from her life paired with her recipes for in Washington, D.C. family meals using her quick-and-healthful The San Francisco Chapter is deeply for her work in French cooking method. CCTV reaches over one bil- saddened to share that Flo Braker, has and American Artisanal lion people in China, 40 million in the U.S., passed away after complications from Cheese education and Stacey Adams and 100 million in other parts of the world. a fall. For more than two decades, she purveyor ship. Stacey is penned “The Baker” recognized as one of the mid-Atlantic’s most Ruth Gresser opened her fourth Pizza column in The San respected cheese mongers. Paradiso restaurant in July. It is in Hyattsville, Francisco Chronicle, Maryland. This location of Ruth’s Neapoli- Mary Beth Albright has joined The Wash- delighting readers tan-style pizzeria also houses Art Works Now, with her sublime ington Post as a host/editor of the “Food” a non-profit creative community center. section. She will be one of four on-camera baked good recipes. host/editors who will be the “faces and voices Susan Lutz was “The Inner Loop” writer in Her many award- of new dedicated coverage areas for video.” residence at Woodlawn Plantation and the winning books Mary Beth was a contestant on Food Network Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Pope-Leighey include The Simple Star Season 7 and is a food lawyer. House. During the June residency, Susan Art of Perfect Baking continued her long-term project on creat- (1984), Sweet Miniatures (1991), and Jessica Botta , a board member of Culinary- ing community through food via the site’s Baking for All Occasions (2008). Corps, a national volunteer service organiza- Arcadia Center for Sustainable Food and Flo was inducted into the James Beard tion, participated in one of CulinaryCorps Agriculture. Her article is at www.theinner- Foundation’s Who’s Who of Food and annual five-day volunteer experiences in looplit.com/single-post/2017/06/22/2017- Beverage in America in 1997. Along with Houston, Texas, where she and other chef Residents-are-off-and-writing Baking Legend, Marion Cunningham, participants worked with Houston Food Flo Braker founded the San Francisco- Amy Riolo’s blog was nominated in three Bank, Camp for All, Plant it Forward Farms based Bakers Dozen. Flo was a friend, categories for the 2017 Saveur Magazine Blog and the M.D. Anderson Cancer Center. mentor, leader who loved people, baking, Awards: Best Baking and Sweets, Best Food Edie Burns sharing and teaching. is Marriott International’s new Videos, and Food & Culture Award: Best Her attention to her simple but detailed Senior Manager, Service and Guest Experi- Single Essay (for The Face of Syrian Cuisine recipes coexisted with her beautiful home ence, Culinary Concepts Hospitality Group and Culture; Getting to Know the Grapes and wardrobe. She had a grace and ease (CCHG). She maintains the bars and of Magna Grecia, and The Art of Culinary about her with a simple elegance that restaurants in Marriott’s brands: St. Regis, Diplomacy. Ritz-Carlton, Bulgari Hotels & Resorts, always shone through. She always had a ready compliment and was certain to send you home with a gift or two or three. Florence Ann Gumberts was born and raised in Evansville, Indiana. She met her A Networking Texas Dame Escapes the Heat! future husband, Dave Braker, while they By Nichole Bendele Cindy Evetts (British Columbia), attended the University of Michigan. They married in 1960 and decided to move to (San Antonio) connected her to Lise Magee, manager of The Listel, a downtown Vancouver Palo Alto, California, shortly afterward. Linda Triesch (San Antonio) visited boutique hotel. Linda enjoyed the “She just got into baking because it was the Great Northwest and Canada this artwork and dined at their Forage something that intrigued her,” Dave said. July to escape the Texas heat. With her Restaurant. The highlight of the trip “She knew nothing about it, she just little blue LDEI Directory in hand, was meeting the BC Dames at Allesan- started reading lots of cookbooks.” Flo first stop was Seattle to visit Pike Place dra Quaglia’s The Wine Bar, featuring had a small catering business, called Oc- Market after a wonderful French break- 75 wines on tap, followed by dinner at casional Baking, during the 1960s. fast at Seattle Dame Joanne Herron’s Provence Marinaside. Linda says it was Shortly after her first book, “The Simple Le Pichet Restaurant and ended the wonderful to have Dames to contact in Art of Perfect Baking,” was re-published day at the hip and delicious small plate these culinary destinations! Linda says, in 1992, Julia Child called and invited restaurant of Renee Erickson’s The “And a Texas-size ‘THANK YOU’ to her to come to Cambridge, Massachu- Walrus and The Carpenter. all the Dames for making my trip so setts, where the two Dames spent a week Off to Vancouver! Former Texan, wonderful!” together filming an episode of “Baking With Julia.” Flo was a charter member and presi- From left: Nancy Wong (PR dent of the International Association for Provence Restaurant Group), Mary Wallace Poole, of Culinary Professionals (IACP), and BC Chapter Administrator, active in many other culinary organi- Karen Dar Woon (Co-Pres- zations, including the San Francisco ident of BC Chapter), Linda Professional Food Society and LDEI. Triesch (Past Co-President, SA The San Francisco Chapter will miss her Chapter) Cindy Evetts, North Vancouver (Owner of Tools & so deeply. www.sfgate.com/food/article/ Techniques) Bay-Area-baking-legend-Flo-Braker-dies- at-78-11226357.php

28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International IN MEMORIAM Ana Costa Carol Field Lesley Hill (Boston) 1919-2017 (San Francisco) 1941-2017 (Hawaii) 1951-2017 Ana Storlazzi Costa passed away in The San Francisco Chapter recently LDEI’s loyal partner, Lesley Hill, who May at age 98. The daughter of Italian lost long-time Dame, Carol Field, as built the heart of palm industry in Ha- parents who rose to success and promi- a result of a stroke, just weeks after waii and co-owned the 110-acre Wailea nence in their adopted country, Ana was losing her husband. She was a re- Agricultural Group in Hamakua, died instrumental in saving the family busi- cipient of James on May 14 on the Big Island. If you ness, Costa Fruit and Produce, when fire Beard Foundation attended an LDEI annual conference destroyed the building. Then a buyer for Award and many the last few years, you would have met Jordan Marsh Company, she helped the other accolades. Lesley serving her company resume Carol delighted in fresh heart of palm business by infusing researching little- during the Partner her life savings into known Italian bak- Luncheon. it in. Ana lived in an ing traditions and Born in Virginia era where wives were traveled between and raised in Flori- the essential compo- Italy and California da, Lesley attended nent in a successful to collect recipes. Auburn University business by entertain- Her most famous book, The Italian and played competi- ing potential custom- Baker is “a seminal book that taught tive college tennis. ers and planning gala bakers how to bake bread all over the After visiting Hawaii for a summer events for charitable organizations where country,” said fellow dame and San Fran- program in 1970 she decided to stay. A local and East Coast luminaries were cisco cookbook author and chef Joyce love of horticulture was sparked while invited. Goldstein. In April 2010, the James working at an orchid nursery on Oahu. She was one of the original Boston Beard Society named The Italian Baker Arriving on the Big Island she began Dames who rose from being a guest in one of 13 essential books on baking. farming in Kapoho, growing guava and 1959 to president of the chapter from Carol’s cooking skills were limited at citrus while obtaining her degree in 2007 to 2009. Ana was twice named the first. In 1997 she told The San Francisco Agriculture from Hawaii Community Boston Chapter’s Dame of Distinction, Chronicle: “I knew how to make a nice College. and in 2009, she was Boston’s nominee for French omelet. Period.” She addressed Lesley was a pioneer of Hawaii’s tropi- the LDEI Grande Dame Award. the problem by working diligently cal fruit industry. As a member of the For nearly 50 years, Ana was instrumen- through Julia Child’s cookbooks. Hawaii Agricultural Leadership Founda- tal in raising significant scholarship funds She was self taught and learned her tion, she traveled to Japan, China, Thai- for the Boston Chapter via her silent auc- Italian cooking and baking skills land, Singapore and Malaysia, where she tions, where the bidding on her originally through extensive personal research ac- sought out tropical fruit. She brought designed and unique auction baskets quired through numerous trips to Italy in commercial rambutan and helped to would start at $1000. She had the charm- beginning on a family trip to Liguria in establish it as an industry in Hawaii. ing and astute manner of tutoring Dames 1972. She fell in love with the people, In 1994, Lesley and her partner in the art of fundraising, and most impor- culture, and food of Italy and began Michael Crowell started Wailea Agricul- tantly, approaching donors for their most writing about food, first for Francis tural Group, a diversified farm on the appealing and high-dollar value items. Ford Coppola’s City Magazine, later for Hamakua Coast north of Hilo grow- For many years, Ana was the organizing California magazine and other publica- ing Fresh Hawaiian Heart of Palm and force behind numerous charitable galas tions, and finally as an author. specialty fruits and spices. Today the and balls for the benefit of young chefs Her baking research became legendary. farm encompasses over 140 acres and is and the disadvantaged. Her family has Chefs around the country relied on the the largest grower of fresh heart of palm always considered charitable fundrais- Italian Baker as a primary source and in America. ing her true life work. As the company friends knew to come by on baking days. She hosted LDEI Legacy Award win- grew, she zestfully pursued fundraising, Carol’s next-door neighbors were known ners. In addition to being a board mem- contributing her energies to The Car- to look out the window and arrive in ber of the Hawaii Chapter of LDEI, roll Center for the Blind; The Speech their pajamas to get some fresh bread. her other activities included: chapter & Hearing Foundation; The Spinnazola Her other books included Celebrat- president of Hawaii Young Farmers As- Foundation; Emerson Cutler Majestic ing Italy and In Nonna’s Kitchen. She sociation; original organizer of the Hilo Theater, Buddy Dog Humane Society; received many honors in Italy, includ- Christmas Fair and Mother’s Earth Fair; The Orphans of Italy; The Civic Sym- ing being awarded the Knight in the board member of Big Island Association phony; and the Massachusetts Restaurant Order of Merit of the Italian Republic of Nurserymen; Originator, president Association’s Educational Foundation. in 2004. In addition to cookbooks, and board member of Hawaii Tropical She will also be remembered for her love she wrote the 2001 novel Mangoes and Fruit Growers Association; originator, of her pet dogs, Scrabble, and the stock Quince and was completing work on a president and board member of Hawaii market. Although she always deflected second novel when she died. The San Tropical Flowers and Foliage Associa- honors, Ana was lauded in 20015 by Francisco Chapter grieves her loss. tion; member of Hilo Organization the Don Orione Home in East Boston www.sfchronicle.com/bayarea/article/ for Women; and member Hilo chapter for “dignifying the elderly with love and Carol-Field-Italian-baking-expert-and- Business and Professional Women. care.” Ana will be greatly missed by the cookbook-10993695.php?cmpid=gsa- The Hawaii Chapter is intensely sorry for Boston Dames. sfgate-result the loss of their treasured Dame Lesley. FALL QUARTERLY 2017 29 GLOBAL Songkran, the Thai New Year CULINARY “Festival of Pouring Water”Passover this year, it was especially nice to postcard On April 13, we celebrated Thai New Year draw parallels between various religions and at Chef/Owner Aulie Bunyarataphan’s cultures as they celebrate the spirit of spring restaurant, Bangkok Joe’s, in Washington, renewal. D.C. The word Songkran comes from a Our menu included: Meang-Kum Sanskrit word for “astrological made with shrimp and toasted passage,” meaning transformation coconut; Chor-Muang, flower Event chair or change. Thai people believe shaped dumplings; satay chicken Amy Riolo that by pouring water over with curried peanut sauce and with Chef/ Buddha statues and by younger cucumber; Ajad, crispy veggie Owner Aulie spring roll with sweet-chili sauce. Bunyarataphan people pouring water over the Global Culinary palms of elders’ hands, anything Initiative The main dishes included grilled bad in their lives will be flushed oriental eggplant; Goong Obb away, and they will be blessed Wonsen, stir-fried giant prawn and chicken in the New Year. Girls help mothers and with bean thread noodles; Pla Paow Thai grandmothers prepare big pots of noodles Herb, grilled whole Bronzino wrapped in for family and friends who visit. Eating banana leaves; Pad Pak, stir-fry assorted long noodles during Songkran is believed to vegetables in a light garlic-soy sauce; increase chances of a long life and prosperity. and fried Thai omelet with Sriracha chili We enjoyed a family-style Thai special sauce. Assorted traditional Thai desserts menu and were entertained by Thai dancers. included Coconut Custard, Mango Aulie designed the menu to promote longev- Sticky Rice, Tropical Fresh Fruit, and ity and good health. It featured some items Pandan Jelly.—Amy Riolo (Washington, that are rare and never offered to Americans. D.C.), GCI Chair Since the holiday coincided with Easter and

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30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Songkran, the Thai New Year “Festival of Pouring Water” SUBMISSION GUIDELINES

DEADLINES WINTER ISSUE - NOVEMBER 12, 2017 SUMMER ISSUE – APRIL 10, 2018 SPRING ISSUE –JANUARY 10, 2018 FALL ISSUE – AUGUST 1, 2018

MEMBER MILESTONES membermilestones@aol. com Email to Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski by the deadline listed above. Include: • CHAPTER • DAME’S NAME • Maximum 50 words for each Dame about personal honors or accomplish- LDEI Photo ments, but not about new product introductions or other promotions. Please include a website URL, if applicable. Press releases and cookbook Permissions covers are NOT accepted. PHOTO: You may email a high resolution quality headshot to accompany your The U.S. Copyright Act news (see below). You must submit a photo permissions form for the photo. says that when the shutter is Note: Due to space constraints, only two Member Milestones will be pub- released, the photographer lished per Dame per year. who pressed the button owns the copyright. It’s not legal CHAPTER PROGRAMS [email protected] to use an image without the Email up to 250 words about chapter events that have already occurred Carole Bloom photographer’s permission. to Chapter News Editor, by the deadline listed above. Include: Therefore, we need the per- • CHAPTER mission of whomever took • SUBMITTER’S NAME the picture for LDEI to print • Maximum 250 words for each chapter. the photo(s) in the Quarterly • Captions for all photos submitted. magazine and/or for other Submissions that exceed 250 words will be edited to comply. uses by LDEI. We will give Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don’t have space to print full photo credit as you request. menus but menu items can be included in the copy. NOTE: If the photo was taken by a passer-by, waiter, Note: “Chapter Programs” and “Member Milestones” may be dispersed or unknown person, the through LDEI social-media channels, as well as in print and online. photo becomes your prop- erty and you may give us PHOTOGRAPHY/IMAGES your permission to use it. • Electronic images must be properly focused and in color When emailing one or with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). more photos to the Quarterly • Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet requirements. editors, please supply the • Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded name of the photographer with text in Word files or PDF files. (if known). We will email • Include photo credits, if required. you a photo permission form • A photo permissions form must be submitted. giving the right to LDEI to • A maximum of three photos can be submitted per chapter. use the image(s) in the LDEI • ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY Quarterly magazine, website, CAPTIONS OR THEY WILL NOT BE PUBLISHED. brochures, video produc- tions, and social media. (If you have an idea for a FEATURE STORY about a chapter or Dame, You’ll be asked to check the contact the Quarterly editors for approval: Susan Slack ([email protected]) categories where permission or CiCi Williamson ([email protected]). is granted when returning E-NEWS (Not for the Quarterly) This bimonthly email newsletter the form. reports upcoming events in other chapters. Include title, date, time, cost, Do not send Internet im- a one-sentence description, and an email contact for your chapter’s events. ages. Legally, you and LDEI Send E-News to the editor: Shelley Pedersen, at [email protected] may not use photos off the Internet without permission. Thank you for your cooperation to keep LDEI UPCOMING in the winter issue in compliance with federal copyright laws. Full coverage of the Newport Beach LDEI Conference

FALL QUARTERLY 2017 31 Ann Arbor Atlanta PRESORTED Austin FIRST CLASS Birmingham U S POSTAGE Boston British Columbia, Canada PAID Charleston LOUISVILLE KY Chicago P.O. Box 4961 PERMIT #1051 Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Colorado Louisville, KY 40204 Dallas Greater Des Moines Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America Kentucky A London, England N U L C N O Los Angeles/Orange County A N Mexico I F E Miami E D Minnesota R L E Monterey Bay Area U A L N N 7 C Nashville N O 1 A New York N C

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Portland E Sacramento 2 San Antonio San Diego San Francisco eport each Seattle CALIFORNIA DREAMING: South Florida St. Louis Experiencing California Cuisine Farm to Table Washington, D.C. eport each CALIFORNIA DREAMING: Experiencing California Cuisine Farm to Table CALIFORNIA DREAMING: Experiencing California Cuisine Farm to Table A N U L C N O A N I N U A L F E N C A O E D N I F R The Los Angeles/Orange County L E E E D R

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Beach. Our conference kicks off October 2 26 with tantalizing pre-conference tours befitting this diverse area of Southern California including a culinary tour of the largest Vietnamese community out- side of Vietnam; an eco-sustainable farm eporteport eachh CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA DREAMING: leading the way to the future of farming; Experiencing California Cuisine Farm to Table and a once-in-a-lifetime behind-the- Experiencingseafood to Californiasink your Cuisine teeth Farminto. to Table scenes look at Disneyland’s kitchens, and Award celebrations are in order, too. see how they prepare to feed the tens of Lidia Bastianich (New York) will thousands of visitors per day. receive the Grande Dame Award, and We are pleased to have our very own Sandra Gutierrez (North Carolina) will Sherry Yard (LA/OC), former pastry chef be presented a check for $1,000 as the at Spago, chef owner of The Tuck Room grand-prize winner of LDEI’s M.F.K. and Helms Bakery Truck, and Karen Fisher Awards. Ross, Secretary of the California Depart- Come celebrate with us! We can’t wait ment of Food and Agriculture, as our to see you in beautiful sunny Southern keynote speakers on Friday and Saturday. California in October! Friday evening we dine on the beach at The Newport Dunes featuring a —Trina Kaye and Anita Lau, California-style clam bake with fresh 2017 LDEI Conference Co-Chairs local produce and an array of fresh Co-Presidents—LA/OC Chapter

OCTOBER 26-29, 2017 | THE ISLAND HOTEL Photos: Island Hotel Newport Beach Hosted by the LA/OC Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier and Visit Newport Beach.