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Ballard Walking Tour

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Ballard Walking Tour Introduction: Ballard is a singular Seattle neighborhood with an unmistakable Scandinavian accent. A city in its own right between 1890 and 1907, Ballard built a handsome business district now preserved as a Ballard Historical national and local historic district. The Walking Tour government had trouble delivering basic nearby Fishermen’s Terminal, Hiram M. services such as potable water. Chittenden Locks, Shilshole Marina, and Ballardites voted reluctantly in 1906 to Golden Gardens Park attract tens of shingle mills annex to Seattle, but their neighbor- thousands of visitors each year. Ballard is along Salmon hood retained its distinctive culture. located along Salmon Bay in northwest Bay. Mean- The output of Ballard’s mills made Seattle, and easily reached from down- while, the it the “Shingle Capital of the World,” town via Elliott and 15th avenues or influx of and the Port of Seattle built Aurora Avenue. immigrants Fishermen's Terminal to house Ballard's This tour begins by focusing on the from famine fishing fleet on the south shore of Ballard business and historic districts, and tensions in Salmon Bay in 1913. Four years later, then expands to include nearby attrac- Scandinavia the opening of the Lake Washington tions. provided a skilled work force for local Ship Canal and Government Locks (now Note: This tour is intended for personal use only and was mills and fishing fleets. The popularity named for U.S. Army Corps of Engi- prepared by HistoryLink for the City of Seattle Office of of chewing tobacco among these new neers district head Hiram Chittenden) Economic Development, Tourism Division. Copyright 2001, arrivals earned the neighborhood the created new economic opportunities for City of Seattle. All references to contemporary businesses nickname “Snoose Junction.” maritime commerce. in this tour date from June 2001. They are cited for A new business district rose along In recent years, “Old Ballard” has orientation and information purposes only and do not imply recommendation or endorsement by the City of Ballard Avenue NW and the town built a become a hub for a wide array of ethnic Seattle or by HistoryLink. handsome City Hall in 1899. cafes from Cajun to Asian Legend has it that Ballard and lively music clubs. It To learn more about the Market’s rich history, decreed a perfect balance remains a “city within a visit www.historylink.org. between vice and virtue by city” with its own pace History: limiting saloon licenses to and special flavor that the number of churches in reminds us of a gentler The first claim in the future city and the city, but the municipal era in Seattle history. neighborhood of Ballard was filed in 1852, the same year settlers arrived in Seattle itself. Development proceeded slowly until railroad entrepreneurs Thomas Burke and Daniel Gilman (remembered now with the Burke- Gilman Trail) assembled a large tract in 1888 for a new community. Meanwhile, a ship’s captain named William Rankin Ballard lost a bet with a business partner and found himself the owner of 160 acres of seemingly worth- less logged-off land adjacent to the planned Gilman Park development. Burke and Gilman hired him to manage their project, and appreciative residents named their new city after Ballard when they incorporated in 1890. The new town grew quickly thanks to electric streetcars linking it to Seattle and establishment of numerous lumber and 1 business district relocated to NW Market bell on April 11, 1976, Street. Thus, Ballard’s Avenue’s newest to officially dedicate the structures are found at its intersection Ballard Historic with Market. This is anchored on the District. west by the present home of an Indian The nearby Sunset 1. NW Market Street at restaurant, originally built in 1923, and Hotel occupied the Bergen Place: This on the east by an older two-story Jones Building, built in modern park was built building from 1903, now home of an 1901 and site of to give Ballard a new Italian restaurant. If nothing else, these Ballard’s original post civic focus and dueling eateries demonstrate that there’s office. The building was dedicated in 1975 by more than lutefisk to eat in Ballard. severely damaged by Norwegian King Olav Note that Ballard Avenue NW runs fire in 2000 but its V. The triangle’s name southeast from NW Market Street. We owners hope to restore it. Olsen Furni- honors Bergen, will refer to its opposite sides as east and ture and the adjacent Habitude Day Spa Norway, Seattle’s west (closest to occupy a pair of buildings dating from second Sister the water) as we 1895 and 1896. Opposite them on City. proceed down the southwest corner, the Guitar Emporium The Ballard Building stands on avenue. now fills the original 1901 home of the A. the northwest corner of NW Market The vaguely W. Preston Drug Store. Street and 22nd Avenue NW. The Art Deco home of 4. 5300 Block of Ballard Avenue NW: The neighborhood’s largest office the Ballard Family frame house just east of the Guitar building was built in 1927 as the Center was built in Emporium looks like its been there second “Aerie” of the Seattle-based 1920, adjacent to forever, but actually it’s only been around Fraternal Order of Eagles (the first the older former a decade or so. Its southern neighbors is downtown’s landmark Eagles Princess Hotel at were all built between 1900 and 1909. Building, now home of ACT Theater, 5443-5447 Ballard They house a number of interesting at 7th and Union). It was designed NW, which dates retailers and studios including Chame- by William R. Grant and later remodeled from 1903. The incongruous Mission leon Design and Sutter’s Home & Hearth. to house restaurants, retail stores, and Style facades of the Ballard Smoke Shop Ballard Bookcase Co. occupies the other businesses. and Vik Apartments a few doors east district’s only example of Richardsonian The nearby Majestic Bay Theater reflect the fad for California architecture, the G. B. opened in 1915 and was remodeled in architecture which spread north in Sandborn building of 2000 by philanthropist Ken Alhadeff. the mid-1920s. Across the street, 1901. Another landmark, the town’s original Marley’s Snowboards and The Of course, no Carnegie Library, is a few doors east on Grape Wine Shop & Bistro occupy seaport would be Market Avenue NW. Designed by a 1906 commercial building. A little complete without a Henderson Ryan and opened in 1905, the further stands a vacant 1908 tattoo parlor, and building was succeeded by a new Ballard building that was the original home neither is Ballard thanks Library in the early 1960s and now of Ballard’s Eagle’s Lodge and the to Anchor Tattoo. The east side of houses private offices. printing plant for the Ballard Tribune. Ballard Avenue begins with newer 1920s- The nearby Burk’s Cafe, a Cajun Former Fire Station 18 era buildings and then “ages” into the restaurant, occupies a converted is nearby at 5427 early 1900s, but with its own assortment 1890s house a few steps east. The Russell Avenue NW of modern stores such as Bark Natural south side of the block ends at a and dates from 1911. Pet Care and Lucca European Home & handsome two-story brick structure Now listed on the Garden shop.: built in 1901. Once a J.C. Penney’s National Register of department store, its main tenant 5. At NW Vernon Place: The 5300 block Historic Places, the now is The Paint Patch crafts shop. terminates in a facing pair of bank sturdy brick building buildings. Indeed the ornate crest of the was designed with 3. At 22nd Avenue NW: The Ballard taller structure on east northeast corner, Dutch gables by the City Hall once stood in the triangular now the Starlight Hotel, is emblazoned early partneship of Charles Bebb and Marvin’s Garden park (named for with the words “Bank Building,” and it Louis Mendel. deceased town character Marvin was built in 1902 for Ballard’s home- Sjoberg) at 22nd Avenue NW. The 2. Ballard Avenue NW at NW Market Street: grown Scandinavian American Bank. original brick structure and bell tower Ballard Avenue NW is now protected as a Across Ballard Avenue, the sculpted were destabilized by the 1965 earth- local and national historic district, which cornucopia on the neo-classical pediment quake and demolished two years later. Its was dedicated on April 11, 1976, by King has advocated “Thrift” since 1914, original bell survives in a new tower Carl XVI Gustav of Sweden. The main although the original Ballard Savings & erected in 1976 as a U.S. Bicentennial street of “Old Ballard” was gradually Loan Association passed on years ago. Project. Noway’s King Carl XVI Gustav abandoned as the neighborhood’s A short walk west on Vernon to NW and Seattle Mayor Wes Uhlman rang this Shilshole will lead you to a sturdy brick 2 house that was actually Place. The northeast corner is filled by popular seafood restaurants such as Ray’s built in 1913 as the the classically-ornamented 1905 and Anthony’s Home Port before reach- administrative office of the apartment and retail building that ing Shilshole Marina. The embankment Stimson Mill which once currently houses Bad Albert’s tavern. features a statue of Leif Erickson, took up much of the The northwest corner is taken by the installed in 1962. The Port of Seattle built Salmon Bay waterfront. former North Star Bar & Hotel Building, the present pleasure boat moorage and The building was designed also dating from 1905 and now home of center in 1963. The breakwater teems by Spokane-based architect Dock Street Brokers.
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