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Jan-Vol11-146-157.Pdf e JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2010 ANTONIO (SEVI) GOMEZ BOHORQUEZ Japanese Japanese First Ascents in Cordillera Blanca, Peru This This article gathers 白巴白rst published Japanese climbs alon g with some outstanding att巴mpts all over the Cor・dillera Blanca in the Peruvian Andes till May 2009 .It compiles, selects, analyzes and summarizes all th巴 data from the mentioned sources. Once we have collected the different heights and names given to each each summit we are able to include here 16 first asc巴nts to virgin summits , 11 n巴w routes, two variants variants and two attempts. Nevado Milluacocha 5,480m DON (ca. 5,450IGN18h, 5,345m IGN 7c) Known as Central Milluacocha, It was nam巴d East Milluacocha sometimes . SE Ridge . New route. 8-21st-1962 Mashahiko Inokuchi, Yoshio Hamano, Noboru Kaburaki (Waseda Univ巴rsity), Victorino Ang巴les (porter). From a base camp at the Quebrada Alpamayo they climb巴d up by th 巴 SE ワ Glacier to a lower south Summit going by the SE ridge to the main Central Milluacocha summit. summit. Ref. Ref. Sangaku Vol. 58 1963; AAJ 1963 p. 505; Rick巴I 1977 p. 57; c.p. V. Angeles Nevado Vizcacha (Viscacha) 5320m (5320m DON, 5312m IGN 18h) This This double rocky snowed Summit at the end of the Nevado Santa Cruz north ridge is also W巴 st Colikancha Colikancha based on Ricker. W. Ridge. 1st ascent. 7-26th-1967 Katsunobu Hamada, Akira Yamada, and Yuji Komatsu. From the base camp (ca . 4,625m) over Cullico- cha cha drain they went up along P匂 ふみ the the north side of this lake climbｭ ing ing the W ridge till the summit. Ref. Ref. AAN 1967 p. 184; Gakujin 毛ト no. no. 242 Nov. 1967 p. 97; Sangaku 司＠ no. no. 63 1968 p. 95; Ricker 1977 p.61 p.61 Nevado Santa Cruz Norte I 5,829m (5829m DON, ca. 『恥 5,750m IGN 18h) •' It It emerges, sharpen, on th巴 north of of Santa Cruz Chico (ca. 5,800m), above above two beautiful lakes: R司jucocha, on the northeast and Yuraccocha Yuraccocha on the southwest. 今ゐ NW face, W ridge. 1st ascent. 7- ー／ 24tth 24tth 1967 Akira Miyashita, 、 ノ ， ／〆 Mitsuaki Mitsuaki Nishigori; Takehiko Z、 t Hayashi, Hayashi, Kazutomo Kobayashi. / 令俗 From the bas巴 camp (ca. 4,625m) ゐ蜘 手 、 they they crossed b巴tween the lakes 」， Cullicocha Cullicocha and R勾 ucocha to the 者 I 、 寺 146 SPECIAL SPECIAL CONTRIBUTION• right right side of the valley pitching the camp I over there, (ca. 4,650m) further from the E bank .,Later they gain巴d access to the NW glacier se託ing the camp 2 up (ca. 5,lOOm), later 出ey as cended towards the cent巴1・ of of the NW face. They crossed the bergschrund on the right below the summit , and two huge seracs, climbing climbing the icy and snowy slope . They traversed then to the right , crossing a second crevasse and climbing climbing a couloir (60。－ 70 ° , ice and rock), where they fixed ropes. Later they dug a snow cave to bivouac. The next day th巴y climbed slightly to th巴 left. They r巴ached the W ridge (ca. 5,400m) getting through a huge snow mushroom and following this deep snow and corniced ridge they got to the summit. Ref. Ref. Gakujin no. 242 Nov. 1967 pp. 96-ss; AAN 1967; Sangaku no. 63 Vol. LXIII 1968 pp. 92-99; RPAG no. no. 8 1966-1968 pp. 152-153; AAJ 1968 pp. 189-190 ; Ricker 1977 p. 61 Nevado Santa Cruz 6,259m DON (6,241m IGN 18h, 6,258m IGN 7c) This This pyramid snow caped mountain was call巴d Pucaraju and Pico de Huaylas. SW face. New route as Sasaki. 6 25th-2000 Kenzo Suzuki and Toshiyuki Hirose. They arrived to the Arhuaycocha Base Camp following the quebrada Santa Cruz (ca. 4, 850m). On June the 24th, they left from an advanced base camp (ca .5 ,000m) reaching th巴 summit the next da y. Ref. Ref. AAJ 2000, no. 74, vol. 42 , pp. 249-250; c.p . K. Sasaki Nevado Alpamayo 5,947m Holdsworth (ca. 5,850m IGN 18h, 6,120m H・MIL・004-01) It It was considered the world most beautiful mountain in Munich (Germany), in 1966. SE Face. A variation of the Slovenian rout巴. 6-16th-2000 K巴nzo Suzuki. He left the Arhuaycocha base base camp (ca . 4,850m) the 15 at 23 :00 h. He climbed the Alpamayo SE face following an unclimbed couloir couloir on the right hand of the Cesen - Dolenc-Markic Trusnovec 1979 route. Then he followed a section section of 出is Slovenian route with some variations in 出c upp巴r p征t plus a mor巴 direct 巴氾t to th e summit, which w筋肉ached by him the 16th. He went down by the SW face Ferrari route. Ref. Ref. AAJ 2000, no. 74, vol. 42, pp. 249-250; c.p. K. Sasaki; Bohorquez 2004 p. 141 命、 .,.,,. .,.,,. 、与 ア / l•P'"” e f； 剛 ~ntsm th~ c。rdill enBl,.n伺 手 、 \ °＇＇＂＂＂＇＂＇＂＇＂＂°＂＇＂~嗣泊、＂＂＂ :?009 、 \ \ 、 、 \ \ ＼予 、 \ 、 se 、 、 、 I － ,1 年 4ト 母 . 147 e JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2010 Pucahirca Pucahirca North I 6,046m Holdsworth (ca. 6,0SOm DON, ca. 5,950m IGN 18h) This This is 出e Pucahirca summit, with four summits above 6,000m : South (6,039m), Central (6,014m) North I (6,046m) and North II (ca. 6,025-6,030m). N. N. Ridge 1st and 2nd ascents. 6-12th-1961, Shigeo Nakagawa, Hiroshi Nakazima (Nakajima in Sangaku), Sangaku), Tamotsu Nakamura . 6-13th-1961 Jiro Amari, Kei Kurachi, Noriji Maruyama (National University University ofHitotsubashi) .From a base camp (ca . 4,000m) in quebrada Yan司janca, and other one closet o the glaci巴r (ca. 4,700m), they climbed up the North Pucahirca II NE glacier setting camp (ca. 5,150m). 5,150m). They went across to the S and crossed to the bas巴 of the E ridge. They followed by the glacier glacier that com巴s down between the north Pucahirca I and II .They camped (ca. 5,400m) under SE face of of the last one. They crossed huge crevasses in this glacier reaching the col between these two summits. summits. They reached the North Pucahirca I Summit following its North ridge. They spent 8 1βhours to the summit from the advanced base camp (ca . 5,650m) after gearing the route till till an ice 1巴dge. Later it took to them 7 hours to come back . Ref .Sangaku 拘1. 52, 1962 p. 1-ss]; AAJ 1962 pp. 253-256, y map 1971 pp. 263-265; Yoshizawa 1972; Ricker Ricker 1977 p. 67; c.p .T .Nakamura; Bohorquez 2004 pp . 239-240 Taulliraju Taulliraju 5,830m DON (Taulliraju 6,300m IGN 18h) Like Like if it were an ice covered granite cathedral，出e Taullir勾 u stands out at 出e end of the quebradas Santa Cruz and Huaripampa. Climbing any of its rout巴s involves difficulty. The RPAG gives it 5,842m. S face (S side). 2nd climb to the summit 1st S fac巴 climb. 8-18th-1976 Saburo Mizobuchi, Tetsuoh Nagashino, Nagashino, Moritaka Yoda . 百ie 10th 出ey set the base camp (ca. 4,500m) at 血巴 bottom of 出e S face, close to to Punta Union, at the end of the Quebrada Santa Cruz .Two days later they pitched th 巴 advanced base camp (ca. 5,lOOm) next to the wall. They climbed 出巴 S face following s闘p and difficult rock, and vertical iced iced gullies .They crossed to the right to reach the SSE ridge, climbing it by its snowy right side. At the end end the ice mushrooms made th巴 getting to the summit difficult but not impossible .It was reached on august august the 18th. 。 10 20 JOKm 。 10 20 JOKm . 148 SPECIAL SPECIAL CONTRIBUTION • F1 ・ South Side of Nevados Milluacocha (5,420m , 5,480m, 5,240m) from Nevada Vizcacha summit. Author: Author: Antonio (Sevi) G. Bohorquez, 2004. Scanned from slide at home (low quality) Ref. Ref. Jwa to Yuki no. 55 1977 p. 143; AAJ 1978 p. 567; Boh6rqu巴z 2004, pp. 164-165; Mauntaineering no. 7 Summer 2004, pp. 22-23, 26-27 Cerro Paron (La Esfinge) S,325m DON It is is It the brown granodiorite peak 出at stands out at 出巴 SW of 出巴 Ag吋 as Nevadas (Nevados Ag吋 a), above the the Qu巴brada Par6n .It is also known as The Sphinx (La Esfinge) . E face. New route. July-2000 T北i Miyamoto (Japan) and Dave Sharrat (USA) .They gained access to the Quebrada Quebrada P紅白i and set up 血e bas巴 camp at 血e foot of 白e east face. They named “Intuition”， to 白is new rout巴， without any bivoucac, using fixed ropes till a high point from which they reached the summit; although although it is possible to bivouac at th巴 end of the fourth pitch. The Japanese-North American team 仕ee- climbed climbed the rout巴 letting it ready for other ascents ascents without bolting. Ref. Ref. D esnivel no. 171 Marzo 2001 pp . 31, 主』早起Q主 34; c.p. D. Sharrat; Climbing August 1 2001 & 白由』 製品‘ ~ ... ロ ’唱曲 印刷。岬企 ＂＇＂＇＂＂＇） pp. 48-53; AAJ 2001 pp 96 , 282; v.a. High 山、 同 一 山町 ’a伊制 ー，ーー 白”’割困 6晶陥白 Maga z ine no. 223 June 2001 p. 71; v.a. 0 ・.， ー - ，，，同w ＂吋 • r •＇＇•争· 相d H e adwall no. 1 january-february 2002 p. 38- 51; 51; Bohorquez 2004 p. 179 Aguja Nevada Chica ca. S,450m AAJ?I Aguja Nevada Chico 5,770m lwa to Yuki? The first summit (ca . 5,500m) is at the N of P 5,560m (ca. 5,500m IGN 18h) and on the Aguja Nevada I WSW ridge. This summit was climb巴d by the 1965 Italian expedition from the Quebrada Santa Cruz.
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