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South Coast ELEV 0-1800M / POP 1.8 MILLION / AREA 27,817 SQ KM

Why Go? Province ...... 160 Ever wonder what Southern Thailand was like decades ago, The Southern Islands ...168 before the crowds arrived? The South Coast of might provide some clues. The country’s coastline is tiny Archipelago ...... 169 compared with its northern neighbour’s, but it remains & Koh Rong practically deserted save for a clutch of fabulously diverse Samloem ...... 171 coastal towns: Koh Kong (the cowboy border town), Siha- noukville (the brash temptress), Kampot (the suave French ...... 173 colonialist) and Kep (the faded monarch). Koh Ta Kiev ...... 174 Around these cities you won’t fi nd much besides jungle, a ...... 174 few truly idyllic islands and long stretches of powdery sand Kompong Som marred only by your footprints. Developers have long been Province ...... 174 drooling over the potential of this richly ecodiverse area, ...... 175 but most large-scale projects have been slow to material- Kampot Province ...... 189 ise. Small resort owners have moved in, establishing little Bokor National Park .....194 colonies of coolness on patches of paradise along the coast- line. Inland, legitimate ecotourism initiatives tempt adven- Kep...... 195 turous and responsible travellers. Takeo Province ...... 200 When to Go Best Places to Eat December, January and February are the coolest months. It starts heating up in March, and temps build to a crescen- » Sailing Club (p 199 ) do in April before the monsoon rains start in May (a little » Rikitikitavi (p 192 ) earlier than elsewhere in Cambodia) and end in November » Chez Claude (p 183 ) (a little later than elsewhere). The rains tend to be steadier and more severe on the South Coast than elsewhere, but » Kimly Restaurant (p 198 ) don’t let this disrupt your travel plans. The scenery is lush » Holy Cow (p 183 ) and beautiful in the rainy season and the clouds provide welcome respite from the searing sun. Best Places to Stay » Lazy Beach (p 172 ) » Mushroom Point (p 181 ) » Vine Retreat (p197 ) » Les Manguiers (p 192 ) » Independence Hotel (p180 ) 159 NH1 iver R Tonlé Kaam Samnor Doc

Bassac (p 194 ), Chau KANDAL Mekong NH21 Takhmau Tinh Bien Kirivong NH6 Chisor Phnom TAKEO V I E T N A M NH2 Takeo Bati NH2 Tonlé Phnom Den PENH Phnom Da Visiting Visiting fog-enveloped PHNOM Angkor Borei Phnom Bayong NH5 Phnom NH3 (p 195 ), the midcentury mecca mecca the midcentury ), 195 (p jet set Cambodia’s of 7 Bokor National Park National Park Bokor and casino abandoned with its views breathtaking (sometimes) NH51 113 Tchea Tapech Udong Tani

Ha Tien Xa Xia Trach Kompong Chhuk Prek Chak Kep Tuk Meas Angk Tasaom NH33 Kep NH3 NH4 KOMPONG CHHNANG Aeu Voa KRONG KEP Ocheutteal Phnom Kompong Speu

KAMPOT ains Koh Pos rei) Park Koh Tonsay Kampot NH46 SPEU (p 175 ), one of one of ), 175 (p NH44

KOMPONG Elephant Mount Partying on Partying Sampling remote islands remote Sampling Kep National Rapids

(Chuor Phnom Dam Island Phu Quoc Park ’s top Asia’s southeast spots backpacker Beach 5 6 and fresh seafood around seafood and fresh SOUTH COASTSOUTH SOUTH COASTSOUTH SOM Tek Chhouu Kirirom Kamchay Dam Park National Kirovong III Dam Prey Bokor KOMPONG Ampul

National Roleak Kang Cheung Koh Thmei Sre Ambel NH4 Thmor Thom Veal Renh Knong Ream Park Krapeur (1000m) Ream Kampot Southern Cardamoms Protected Forest Cascades Kbal Chhay National KOH KONG Sre Ambel NH41

NH48 t Chumnoab

Plauv Bombek Kiev Chamnar Koh Stung Hau Central Cardamoms Protected Forest Chi Phat Ta Gulf of Areng Valley Tuek Andoung Kompong Som Bang

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River Beach

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River Thmor Areng Pipho Preak

Kicking back in Kicking back Park Prek Treng Ta Op Otres Beach Checkpoint Veal II Ranger (1213m) (p 189 ), a charming river town town a charming river ), 189 (p best- Cambodia’s of with some architecture French preserved 4 where exertion consists of yet yet of consists exertion where run another cocktail Trapeang Sihanoukville

Cardamom Mountains Headquarters Ta Nun Botum Sakor Phnom Knang National Park NH48 Tatai Bridge (Chuor Phnom Kravanh) Rung Occheutteal Beach Islands Tatai Preak Khsach Waterfall Poi Southern Trapaeng Yopon Corridor Koh Rong Ta Nhi City (p 181 ), Koh Por Cham Yeam Waterfall Koh Kong Koh Sdach Koh Samit Alatang Island Koh Kapi Koh Kong Hat Lek (p 164 ), ), (p 164 now opening Peam Krasaop

Koh Kong Conservation Otres Beach Otres Khlong Yai Wildlife Sanctuary Chilling on Sihanoukville’s Chilling on Sihanoukville’s Koh Kong Conservation Conservation Kong Koh up to ecotourism up to Corridor rivers and remote waterfalls of of waterfalls and remote rivers the mellow mellow 3 Ko Mak Ko Kut

Gulf of Thailand T H A I L N D southern islands 00 km 50 miles 30 Exploring the pristine the pristine Exploring Drifting idly among the Drifting (p 168 ), home to low-key resorts resorts low-key home to ), 168 (p beaches and lonely white South Coast Highlights 1 magical 2 rainforests, mangrove-lined mangrove-lined rainforests,