INDEX

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX Asian Adventures, 48 Blue 7 Massage (Phnom ATMs (automated-teller Penh), 85 machines), , 202 Boat travel ARP, 43, 204 A , 35, 37 Accommodations. See also Laos, 199, 200 Accommodations Index akeng Hill (), 114 , 60–61 best, 4, 6 B Bamboo Train (), Sangker River (Battam- AIDS, 41 143 bang), 144 Airport (), 164 , 148 , 94 Air travel Ban Phanom Weaving Sihanoukville, 162 Cambodia, 33, 35 Village, 280 Body Tune Spa (Siem Reap), Laos, 196, 198 (Angkor), 121 125 All Lao Services (Luang , 121–122 Bokor Mountain, 172 Prabang), 258 (Angkor), 118 Bokor Palace Casino and All Lao Travel Service (Luang Battambang, 3, 133–145 Resort (), 172–173 Prabang), 282 accommodations, 138–140 The Bolaven Plateau, 319–320 Ambre (Phnom Penh), 87 arriving in, 133–134 Bonkors (Kampot), 172 American Express, 91, 239 ATMs, 137 Bonn Chroat Preah Nongkoal Amret Spa (Phnom Penh), 85 attractions, 142–144 (Royal Plowing Angkor Balloon, 119 banks and currency Ceremony), 30 Angkor National Museum exchange, 137 Bonn (Siem Reap), 124 business hours, 137 (Cambodia), 31 Angkor Night Market, 128 doctors and hospitals, 137 Books, recommended , 116 food stalls, 142 Cambodia, 25 Angkor Village (Siem Reap), getting around, 136–137 Laos, 189 12, 93, 131 Internet access, 137 Boom-Boom Records dance performances, 129 nightlife, 144–145 (Sihanoukville), 163 guidelines for visiting, 113 post office, 137 Boom Boom Room (Phnom sunrises and sunsets, 119 restaurants, 140–142 Penh), 87–88 temple complex, 112–121 shopping, 144 Bopha Penh Titanic Restau- , 7, 93, 113–114. tourist information, 137 rant (Phnom Penh), 90 See also Siem Reap traveling to, 134, 136 The Bor Phen Nyang Angkor What? (Siem Reap), The (Angkor), 116 (), 237–238 128 The Bayon (Siem Reap), 7 Boun Bang Fai (Rocket Apsara Dance, 131 Bazar (Phnom Penh), 87 Festival), 193–194 Apsara Faces (Angkor), 116 Beng Melea, 122 Boun Khao Chi (Laos), 193 Architecture Beyond (Angkor), 126 Boun Khao Phansa (Laos), 194 Cambodian,COPYRIGHTED 21–23, 86 MATERIAL Biking, Laos, 201, 207 Boun Khao Salak (Laos), 194 Laos, 186–187 Birthday of the Former Boun Khoun Khao (Laos), 193 Area codes Queen (Cambodia), 30 Boun Makha Bousa (Laos), 193 Cambodia, 321 Birthday of the King Boun Pha Vet (Laos), 193 Laos, 322 (Cambodia), 30 Boun Pi Mai (Lao New Year), Army Day (Laos), 193 Birthday of the King Father 193 Art (Cambodia), 31 Boun That Louang (That Cambodia, 23 Bliss (Phnom Penh), 87 Luang Festival; Laos), 194 Laos, 187 Blissful Guesthouse (Kam- Boun Visakha Bousa (Laos), Asasax Art Gallery (Phnom pot), bar at, 172 194 Penh), 87 Bousra Waterfall, 151 332 Bowling Chiva’s Shack (Sihanoukville), Dive Shop (Sihanoukville), Phnom Penh, 85 163 162 Vientiane, 234 Choeung Ek Memorial Dokkhoun Handicrafts Buddha Park (Vientiane), (Phnom Penh), 80, 82 (Vientiane), 237 227–228 Cholera, 40, 202 Dom Dek, 122 Buffalo Trails, 46 Church of St. Theresa Don Det, 318–319 Bun Ork Phansa (Laos), 194 (Savannakhet), 302 , 318–319 Bun Song Hua (Dragon Boat Colors of Cambodia (Siem Don Khong, 317–318 Races; Laos), 194 Reap), 127 Dragon Boat Races (Bun Business hours Constitution Day Song Hua; Laos), 194 Cambodia, 321 (Cambodia), 30 Drinking and drug laws, Laos, 322 Cooking classes, Phnom 321, 322 Bus travel Penh, 86 D’s Books, 89, 127 Cambodia, 34–37 Cooking courses, Siha- Dysentery, 39 Laos, 197, 198–199 noukville, 163 Cooking School at the Smokin’ Pot (Battambang), Easy Speaking Café and Pub Café Books (Vientiane), 235 143 (Siem Reap), 128 Calendar of events Coronation Day Eating and drinking Cambodia, 30–31 (Cambodia), 31 Cambodia, 26–27 Laos, 193–194 Couleur d’Asie (Vientiane), 236 Laos, 190 Cambodia Cultural Center Credit cards, 202 EcoSea Dive (Sihanoukville), (Siem Reap), 131 Cambodia, 38 162 Cambodia Golf and Country Currency and currency Ecotourism, 45–48, 206–207 Club (Phnom Penh), 85 exchange, 39 Ek Phnom (Battambang), 143 Cardamom Mountains, Cambodia, 38 Elderhostel, 43 166–167 Laos, 202 Elder Treks, 43, 204 Carnets d’Asie (Angkor), 126 Customs regulations Electricity, 321, 322 Carol Cassidy (Vientiane), 236 Cambodia, 32 Elephant rides, 150, 151 Carterie du Laos (Vientiane), Laos, 195 The Elephant Terrace (Angkor), 235 Cycling, Laos, 201, 207 120 Car travel, Cambodia, 35–36 Cyclos, Cambodia, 36 Embassies and consulates Caruso Lao Handicraft Cambodia, 321 (), 283 Laos, 322–323 Casabalanca Books Dance performances, Encephalitis, Japanese, 40 (Sihanoukville), 163 traditional Entry requirements, Cave One, 173 Cambodian, 24 31–32, 195 Cave Two, 173 Laos, 188 Etiquette Caving, Vang Vieng, 249–250 Vientiane, 239 Cambodia, 27–28 Cellphones Dao Fah (Luang Prabang), 286 Laos, 191 Cambodia, 48 Dara Market (Luang Exotissimo Travel Laos, 208 Prabang), 280, 283 Laos, 208 Central Market (Phnom Day of Liberation (Laos), 194 Luang Prabang, 258 Penh), 80 Day of the Free Laos (Lao Siem Reap, 125 Champasak, 314–317 Issara), 194 Vientiane, 235 Champasak Historical Heri- Day of the People’s Party Experience Boat tage Museum (Pakse), 313 (Laos), 193 (Phnom Penh), 90 Champasak Plaza Shopping Dead Fish Tower (Siem Reap), Exploritas, 204 Center (Pakse), 313 128 Chaul Chhnam Thmey Dengue fever, 41 (Khmer New Year), 30 Diethelm Travel Families with children, Chha Ong waterfall, 150 Laos, 208 44, 204–205 Children’s Day (Laos), 194 Luang Prabang, 258, 282 Fibre2fabric (Luang Prabang), Childsafe Hotline, 42 Pakse, 308 283 China, traveling to Laos Siem Reap, 125 Films, 25 from, 197 Vientiane, 235 Laos, 190 Chinese Ho, 288 Dinosaur Museum (Savanna- Fishermen’s Den and Sports khet), 301 Bar (Sihanoukville), Cambodia, 30 Disabilities, travelers with, 162, 164 Laos, 193 44–45, 205 Fishing, Sihanoukville, 162 Food stores and markets, Howie’s Bar (Phnom Penh), 89 Kampong Phluk, 123 333 Vientiane, 236 Huay Xai, 289–290 Kampot, 3, 167–173 Fort Carnot (Huay Xai), 290 Human Rights Day Kampot Souvenirs and Frangipani (Siem Reap), 124 (Cambodia), 31 Handicraft, 173 Frizz Restaurant (Phnom Kanika (Phnom Penh), 90 Penh), cooking school at, 86 Kantha Bopha Foundation Funky Munky (Siem Reap), Impian Divers Activity Cen- (Siem Reap), 131 129 ter (), 167 Kantha Bopha Hospital (Siem Future Nightclub (Vientiane), Independence Beach, 154 Reap), 96 238 Independence Day KA Tours (Phnom Penh), 86 (Cambodia), 31 Kayaking Independence Monument Laos, 207 Gays and lesbians (Phnom Penh), 80 Vang Vieng, 249 Cambodia, 43 Indochina Old House Antique Memo- Laos, 204 Café (Vientiane), 237 rial (Vientiane), 228 Giardia, 39 Inner Journey Expeditions, Kbal Chhay Falls, 162, 167 The Gibbon Experience (near 205 Kbal Preah Waterfall, 151 Huay Xai), 290 Inter Lao Tourism, 208 , 174–177 Global Taxi (Phnom Penh), 62 The International Ecotourism Kepler’s Kampot Books, 173 Go-karting, Phnom Penh, 85 Society (TIES), 45 Khammouane Limestone Golden Lions Plaza International Labor Day formations, 306 (Sihanoukville), 163 (Cambodia), 30 Khmer Artisans Golf International New Year’s Day (Sihanoukville), 163 Phnom Penh, 85 (Cambodia), 30 Khmer New Year (Chaul Vientiane, 234 International SOS Medical Chhnam Thmey), 30 Green Discovery (Laos), 208, and Dental Clinic (Phnom , 16–19, 23, 83 235, 243, 249, 281, 303, Penh), 321 The Khmers, 24 308, 320 International Women’s Day The Killing Fields (movie), 25 Cambodia, 30 The Killing Fields (Phnom Laos, 193 Penh), 80, 82 Handicraft Products of Eth- Internet access , 122 nic Groups (Vientiane), 236 Cambodia, 49 Koh Kon, 161 Haw Khao Padap Din (Laos), Laos, 208 Koh Kong, 164–167 194 Intestinal parasites, 39 Koh Kong Divers, 167 Haw Pha Kaeo (Vientiane), Irrawaddy dolphins (Don Koh Kong Island, 167 228, 232 Khon), 319 Koh Kong Safari World, 167 Health concerns Irrawaddy dolphins (Kratie), Koh Por Falls, 167 Cambodia, 38–41 148 Koh Prins, 161 Laos, 202–203 Islands Traditional Khmer , 158–159 Heart of Darkness (Phnom Massage (Siem Reap), 125 Koh Rung Samloem, 161 Penh), 90 Itineraries, suggested , 162 Helicopters Cambodia Ltd. Cambodia, 50–52, 54–55, , 161 (Angkor), 119 57–58 , 162 Hepatitis A, 39–40 Laos, 53–58 Koh Yor Beach, 167 Hepatitis B, 40 Kompong Chhnang, “Heritage Friendly” estab- 3, 145–146 lishments, in Cambodia, 46 Japanese encephalitis, 40 Kopnoi (Luang Prabang), 284 History Jasmine (Siem Reap), 127 Krama, 27 Cambodia, 9–21 Jaya Bot Mohania (Angkor), Kratie, 146–148 Laos, 178–186 118 Kuangsi Waterfall, 280 HIV/AIDS, 41 The Jazzy Brick (Vientiane), The Hive (Luang Prabang), 238 286 John McDermott Photogra- Labor Day, Laos, 193 Hmong New Year (Laos), 194 phy (Siem Reap), 127 La Cigale Bleue (Phnom Honey Bar (Kampot), 172 Jumbos, Vientiane, 201 Penh), 85 Hospitals Ladies Fingers (Vientiane), Cambodia, 41, 321 237 Laos, 203, 323 Kabal Spean, 122–123 Land Mines Museum, 123 Hot springs at Muang Kham, Kambol Go-Karting (Phnom 296 Penh), 85 334 Language visitor information and Muang Kham, hot springs at, Cambodia, 321 tours, 258 296 Khmer, 325–327 walking tour, 279–280 Muang Khoun, 296 Lao, 327–330 Luang Pra-bang, 3 Muang Ngoi Neua, 287 Laos, 323 Luang Say Cruises (Luang Muangsua Hotel (Luang Lao Bowling Centre Prabang), 257 Prabang), 286 (Vientiane), 234 Luang Say Mekong Cruise Museum of Tribes Lao Buddha Shop (Luang (Luang Prabang), 282 (Phongsali), 288 Prabang), 284 Lucky! Lucky! (Phnom Music, 23, 187–188 Lao Issara (Day of the Free Penh), 62 Laos), 194 Lucky Market (Phnom Lao National Day, 194 Penh), 88 Naga Creations (Luang Lao National Museum Lumkut Lake, 150 Prabang), 284 (Vientiane), 228, 230 Lunar 36 (Vientiane), 238 Nam Ou River, 3, 286 Lao National Theatre National Museum (Phnom (Vientiane), 239 Penh), 82 Lao New Year (Boun Pi Mai), Mahaxai, 306 Neak Krorhorm Travel and 193 Mahaxai Caves and the Tours (Siem Reap), 126 Laundry (Siem Reap), Khammouane Protected New Market (Siem Reap), 128 128–129 Area (near Tha Khek), 306 Newspapers and magazines Le Lezard Bleu (Phnom Mail, 321–323 Cambodia, 322 Penh), 87 Make Merit (Tak Bat; Luang Laos, 323–324 Les Artisans Lao (Vientiane), Prabang), 275 New Year 237 Malaria, 40–41, 202 Chinese L’Etranger Books & Tea Martini Lounge (Vientiane), Cambodia, 30 (Luang Prabang), 283 238 Laos, 193 Liberation Day Massage and sauna. See also Hmong (Laos), 194 (Cambodia), 30 Spas Khmer, 30 Linga (Siem Reap), 129 Huay Xai, 290 Khmer New Year (Chaul Lockjaw (tetanus), 41 Phnom Penh, 85–86 Chhnam Thmey), 30 Love Orange Club (Phnom Vientiane, 234 Lao (Boun Pi Mai), 193 Penh), 89 Meak Bochea Day (Magha Vietnamese (Laos), 193 Luang Prabang, 252–286 Puja Day; Cambodia), 30 New Year’s Day accommodations, 258–264 Medical requirements for International ATMs, 284 entry (Cambodia), 30 attractions, 270–282 Cambodia, 32 Laos, 193 banks and currency Laos, 195–196 The Night Market (Luang exchange, 285 Meditation, Vientiane, 234 Prabang), 283 bicycle and motorcycle Meta House (Phnom Nong Kiaow, 3, 286–287 rentals, 285 Penh), 91 November Water Festival business hours, 285 Minefields, Cambodia, 136 (Cambodia), 31 climate, 285 Miss Wong (Siem Reap), 128 doctors and hospitals, 285 M’lop Tapang Gift Shop getting around, 257–258 (Sihanoukville), 163 Oasis Resort, 48 Internet access, 285 Molly Malone’s (Siem Reap), Ochheuteal, 153 nightlife, 286 129 Ochheuteal Beach, 152, 163 organized tours, 281–282 Mondulkiri, 151 OckPopTok (Luang Prabang), orientation, 254–255 Money and costs 284 post office, 286 Cambodia, 37–38 On the Rock (Vientiane), 238 restaurants, 264–282 Laos, 201 OSMOSE, 123 road journey from Vang Monkey Bar (Don Det), 319 Osmose, Siem Reap, 125 Vieng to, 251 Monument Books, 89, 127, , 87 shopping, 283 235, 283 Out Adventures, 43, 204 side trip to the Nam Ou Morning Market (Talat Sao; Overseas Adventure Travel, River, 286 Vientiane), 232, 236 44, 204 snacks and cafes, 269–270 Motorcycle taxis, street names, 258 Cambodia, 36 telephone, 286 Motorcycle travel Paddy’s Sports Center tourism information, 286 Cambodia, 35–36 (Phnom Penh), 85 traveling to, 255–257 Laos, 199–201 Pakbeng, 291–292 Pak Ou Caves, 280 Phnom Sasear, 173 , 130 335 Pakse, 307–314 Phnom Sla Ta’aun, 173 Preak Toal, 123 Paksong, 320 Phongsali, 288–289 Prek Tuk Sap Estuary, 162 Parkway Health Club (Phnom Phonsavan, 292–296 (Angkor), 118 Penh), 85 Phou Fa (Sky Mountain), 288 Presidential Palace Passports, Laos, 195 Phou Noy, 288 (Vientiane), 232 Pathana Boupha Antique Phousi, Mount (Luang Prostitution, 42 House (Luang Prabang), 284 Prabang), 270 Provincial Museum Pathet Lao Day, 193 Phra That Luang (Vientiane), (Battambang), 144 Patuxai Monument 230 Provincial Museum (Vientiane), 230, 232 Plain of Jars, 294–296 (Savannakhet), 301 Peace Art Project Cambodia Planning your trip Psar Banlung, 150 (PAPC), 88 to Cambodia, 29–49 Psar Chas, the Old Market Pepy Tours, 46 calendar of events, (Siem Reap), 128 Phapaheng Waterfalls, 319 30–31 Psar Leu Phatoke Laoderm entry requirements, Battambang, 144 (Vientiane), 239 31–32 Sihanoukville, 163 Phimpone Market getting around, 35–37 Psar Nath (Battambang), 144 (Vientiane), 236 health concerns, 38–41 PTM (Siem Reap), 126 Phimpone Market 2 money and costs, Pulp (Battambang), 144 (Vientiane), 236 37–38 Phnom Banan (Battambang), safety and crime, 144 41–43 Q&A (Sihanoukville), 163 Phnom Chhork, 173 specialized travel Q Bar (Vang Vieng), 248 , 87 resources, 43–45 Phnom Doh Kromom staying connected, (Mondulkiri), 151 48–49 Rabbit Island, 173 Phnom Penh, 59–92 sustainable tourism, Rabies, 40 accommodations, 63–71 45–48 Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor American Express, 91 traveling to Cambodia, (Siem Reap), Apsara Dance, ATMs, 91 33–35 131 attractions, 80–86 when to go, 29 Raffles Hotel Le Royal banks and currency to Laos, 192–209 (Phnom Penh), pool, sauna, exchange, 91 calendar of events, and gym at, 85 business hours, 91 193–194 Rainfall, average, day trips outside, 87 entry requirements, 195 Cambodia, 29 doctors & hospitals, 91 escorted tours, 208 Rajana (Sihanoukville), 163 embassies and health concerns, Ratanakiri, 148–151 consulates, 91 202–203 , 162 getting around, 61–62 money and costs, Reclining Buddha at Wat Internet access, 91–92 201–202 Rahtanharahm (near layout of, 59–60 specialized travel Banlung), 151 maps, 92 resources, 204–206 Remote Asia (Laos), 200, 208, newspapers and staying connected, 235, 282, 304, 308 magazines, 92 208–209 Restaurants. See also Restau- nightlife, 89–91 sustainable tourism, rants Index pharmacies, 92 206–207 best, 7–8 post office, 92 traveling to Laos, Richner, Dr. Beat (Beatocello), restaurants, 71–80 196–198 131 safety, 92 when to go, 192 River cruises, Phnom Penh, 90 shopping & galleries, 87–89 Police Riverhouse Lounge (Phnom snacks and cafes, 79–80 Cambodia, 322 Penh), 89–90 telephone, 92 Laos, 324 Riverside Balcony Bar tourism information, 92 Politics, Cambodian, 20 (Battambang), 144 traveling to, 60–61 , 18 Rock climbing, Laos, 207 Phnom Penh International Pontoon Lounge (Phnom Vang Vieng, 249 Airport, 60 Penh), 89 Rocket Festival (Boun Bang Phnom Sampeou Mountain Poulou Wai, 161 Fai), 193–194 (Battambang), 144 PPS Circus (Battambang), 143 Group, 123 (Angkor), 120 336 Royal Palace and Silver Shipwreck (Sihanoukville), Spas. See also Massage and Pagoda (Phnom Penh), 163 sauna 82–83 Shopping, Phnom Penh, Luang Prabang, 282 Royal Palace Museum (“Haw 87–89 Phnom Penh, 85–86 Kham”; Luang Prabang), Siem Reap, 93–132 Siem Reap, 124–125 270, 272, 279 accommodations, 96–106 Speedboats (Laos), 200 Royal Plowing Ceremony ATMs, 131 Luang Prabang, 257 (Bonn Chroat Preah attractions, 112–126 Spirit House (Vientiane), 239 Nongkoal), 30 banks and currency Sra Serang Reservoir Royal Residence (Phnom exchange, 131 (Angkor), 121 Penh), 82 doctors and hospitals, 131 Student travel, 45, 205–206 Rubies Wine Bar (Phnom emergencies, 131 Sustainable tourism, 45–48, Penh), 90 getting around, 96 206–207 Russian Market (Phnom Internet access, 132 Swimming, 85, 234 Penh), 80, 87 nightlife, 128–131 organized tours, 125–126 post office, 132 Ta Dambong (Battambang), Safety and crime, 41–43 restaurants, 106–112 142 Salmonella, 39 shopping, 126–128 Tad Ing Hang Stupa (near Sambo, 75 snacks and cafes, 111 Savannakhet), 302 The Samlo Pub (Vientiane), traveling to, 94, 96 TAEC (The Traditional Arts 238–239 Sihanouk National Park, 162 and Ethnology Centre; Sam Neua, 295 Sihanoukville, 152–164 Luang Prabang), 272 Sauna and massage. See also accommodations, 155–159 Ta Kaeo (Angkor), 121 Spas ATMs, 155 Tak Bat (Make Merit; Luang Huay Xai, 290 banks and currency Prabang), 275 Phnom Penh, 85–86 exchange, 155 Talat Khua Ding (Vientiane), Vientiane, 234 business hours, 155 236 Savang (Sisavang Vatthana), doctors and hospitals, 155 Talat Sao (Morning Market; 255 getting around, 154–155 Vientiane), 232, 236 Savannakhet, 297–302 Internet access, 155 Talat Thong Khan Kham Savan Vegas Hotel and nightlife, 163–164 (Vientiane), 236 Casino, 302 restaurants, 159 Tamarind (Vientiane), 237 Savanxay Market (Savanna- shopping, 163 (Angkor), 121 khet), 302 sights and activities, Ta Prohm (Siem Reap), 7 Sawasdee Massage (Phnom 161–163 Tara and Kys Art Gallery Penh), 85 traveling to, 154 (Siem Reap), 127 Sayon Silkworks (Phnom Silk and fabrics, Laos, 187 Ta Tai Waterfalls, 167 Penh), 87 Silk & Pepper (Phnom Tat Fan waterfalls, 320 Schistosomiasis, 202 Penh), 87 Tat Meelok waterfalls, 320 Scuba diving Silver Pagoda (Phnom Penh), Tat Yuang waterfalls, 320 Koh Kong, 167 82–83 Taxes, 322, 324 Sihanoukville, 161 , 317–319 Taxis, Phnom Penh, 62 Scuba Nation PADI 5 Star Dive Skuon, 147 Taxi Vantha (Phnom Penh), 62 Center (Sihanoukville), 162 Sky Disco (Battambang), 145 Tek Chhou falls, 173 Seasons Sky Mountain (Phou Fa), 288 Telephones, Cambodia, 48 Cambodia, 29 Smiling Sky Bookshop Temperatures, average, Laos, 192 (Battambang), 144 Cambodia, 29 Seeing Hands IV (Siem Reap), Smoking Temple Club (Siem Reap), 129 125 Cambodia, 322 The Terrace of the Leper King Senior travel, 43 Laos, 324 (Angkor), 119–120 Laos, 204 Snuol, 151 Terre Cambodge, 123 Sen Monorom, 151 Sokha Beach, 154 Siem Reap, 125 Sen Monorom falls, 151 Sok Lim Tours (Kampot), 172 Tetanus (lockjaw), 41 Senteurs d’Angkor (Siem Somphamit Falls, 319 Reap), 127 Sorya Shopping Center traveling to Cambodia Serendipity (Sihanoukville), (Phnom Penh), 89 from, 33–34 153 Sovanna Phum Art Associa- traveling to Laos from, Sex tourism, 42 tion (Phnom Penh), 91 196–197 Tha Khek, 3, 302–306 Tham Chang (near Vang Tuo Kokir Rapids, 167 visitor information and 337 Vieng), 250 Tuol Sleng, Museum of Geno- tours, 213 Tham En (near Tha Khek), 306 cide (Phnom Penh), 83–84 walking tour, 232–234 Tham Hoi (near Vang Vieng), Typhoid, 40 Vientiane Book Center, 235 250 Vientiane Bowling Centre, 234 Tham Lot Kong Lo Cave, 306 Tham Non (near Vang Vieng), Utopia (Sihanoukville), 164 traveling to Cambodia 250 from, 34, 35 Tham Pha In (near Tha Khek), traveling to Laos from, 197 306 Vang Vieng, 242–251 Vietnamese New Year (Laos), Tham Pha Pa (Tha Khek), 306 accommodations, 244–247 193 Tham Phu Thao (near Vang attractions, 249–251 Villa Lanka (Phnom Penh), 85 Vieng), 250 banks and currency Vimean Akhar (Angkor), 118 Tham Piew, 296 exchange, 243 Virachey National Park, 150 Tham Poukham (near Vang getting around, 243 Visaka Bochea Day Vieng), 250 Internet access, 244 (Cambodia), 30 Tham Than Kaysone, 294–295 nightlife, 248–249 Visas Tham Than Khamtay, 295 orientation, 242 Cambodia, 31–32 Tham Than Nouhak, 295 post office, 244 Laos, 195 Tham Than Phoumi, 295 restaurants, 247–248 Visaya Spa (Siem Reap), 124 Tham Than , traveling to, 243 Volunteer travel, 295 visitor information and Cambodia, 47 Tham Xang (near Vang tours, 243 Vieng), 250 Veggy’s (Phnom Penh), 88–89 That Dam (Vientiane), Veiyo Tonle Restaurant Wanderlust (Siem Reap), 230, 232 (Phnom Penh), 91 127–128 That Luang Festival (Boun Victory Beach, 152, 154 Wat Aham (Luang Prabang), That Louang; Laos), 194 Victory Gate (Angkor), 118 272–273, 280 Theater, Cambodian, 24 Victory Hill (Sihanoukville), Wat Chom Khong (Luang Throne Hall (Phnom Penh), 82 164 Prabang), 273 TIES (The International Eco- Vieng Xai, 3, 294–295 Water, drinking tourism Society), 45 Vientiane, 210–241 Cambodia, 322 Tiger Trail Outdoor Adven- accommodations, 213–221 Laos, 324 tures (Luang Prabang), 282 American Express, 239 Wat Ho Xiang (Luang Time zones, 322, 324 ATMs (automated-teller Prabang), 273–274 Tipping, 322, 324 machines), 239 Wat Khili (Luang Prabang), Tithpeng Maniphone (Luang attractions, 227–235 280 Prabang), 284 average temperatures and Wat Long Khun (Luang Tonle Bati, 87 rainfall, 192 Prabang), 274 Tonle Sap, 61 banks and currency Wat Mahathat (Luang Tonle Sap Lake, 123 exchange, 239–240 Prabang), 274 Top-Cat Cinema (Siha- business hours, 240 Wat Mai (Luang Prabang), noukville), 163 doctors & hospitals, 240 274–276, 280 The Traditional Arts and emergencies, 240 Wat Manilat (Huay Xai), 290 Ethnology Centre (TAEC; getting around, 212–213 Wat Manorom (Luang Luang Prabang), 272 Internet access, 240 Prabang), 276–277 Traditional Khmer Cookery newspapers and maga- Wat Nong (Luang Prabang), (Sihanoukville), 163 zines, 240–241 280 Train travel nightlife, 237–239 Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan Cambodia, 36 organized tours, 235 (Vientiane), 231 Laos, 198 orientation, 210–211 Wat Pa Huak (Luang Prabang), Trekking pharmacies, 241 7, 277, 279 Laos, 207 post office, 241 Wat Phnom (Phnom Penh), 84 Vang Vieng, 249 restaurants, 221–227 Wat Phou (Wat Phu; Champa- T’Shop Lai Galerie safety, 241 sak), 3, 7, 315–317 (Vientiane), 237 shopping, 235–237 Wat Phousi (Luang Prabang), Tubing, Vang Vieng, 250–251 snacks and cafes, 226–227 279 Tuk-tuks, Laos, 201 telephone, 241 Wat Phra That Sikhotabong Tuk-tuks and samlors, traveling to, 211–212 (Tha Khek), 306 Cambodia, 36 338 Wat Rahtanharahm (near Angkor Village Hotel (Siem Hotel Cambodiana (Phnom Banlung), 151 Reap), 100–101 Penh), 63–64 Wat Sainyaphum (Savanna- Angkor Village Resort (Siem Hôtel de la Paix (Siem Reap), khet), 302 Reap), 101 97–98 Wat Sene (Luang Prabang), Anise Hotel (Phnom Penh), 68 Hotel InterContinental 280 Asia Hotel (Battambang), 139 Phnom Penh, 70 Wat Si Muang (Vientiane), 231 Asian Hotel (Koh Kong), 166 Hotel Scandinavia (Phnom Wat Sin Jong Jaeng (Pakbeng), Auberge Mont Royal Penh), 69 292 D’Angkor (Siem Reap), 103 The Independence Hotel Wat Si Saket (Vientiane), Balcony Guest-house (Sihanoukville), 156 231, 232 (Kratie), 147 International Hotel (Battam- Wat Sok Pa Luang Beach Club Resort bang), 138–139 (Vientiane), 234 (Sihanoukville), 156 Ivy Guesthouse (Siem Reap), Wat That Luang (Luang Beach Road Hotel 104 Prabang), 277–278 (Sihanoukville), 157 Juliana Hotel (Phnom Wat (Luang Prabang), The Billabong (Phnom Penh), 70 280 Penh), 67 Kabiki (Phnom Penh), 66–67 Wat Visoun (Wat Wisunarat; Blissful Guesthouse Khemara Battambang Hotel Luang Prabang), 278 (Kampot), 170 (Battambang), 139 Wat Wisunarat (Wat Visoun; Blue Lime (Phnom Penh), 66 Knai Bang Chatt (Kep), 176 Luang Prabang), 278 Bokor Mountain Lodge Koh Kong City Hotel, 166 Wat Xieng Thong (Luang Pra- (Kampot), 170 Lakeside Chheng Lok Hotel bang), 7, 278–280 Bopha Angkor (Siem Reap), (Banlung), 149–150 White-water rafting, Laos, 207 102 La Noria (Siem Reap), 104 Wild Asia, 46 Bopha Koh Kong Hotel (Koh La Résidence d’Angkor (Siem The Wind West (Vientiane), 239 Kong), 166 Reap), 98 Women travelers, 44 Botanica Guest House (Kep), The Last Home Guesthouse Laos, 205 176 (Phnom Penh), 67–68 World Lounge (Siem Reap), Bungalow Guesthouse La Villa (Battambang), 139 128 (Battambang), 138 Lazy Beach (Koh Rong), Worms and other intestinal Bus Stop (Battambang), 138 158–159 parasites, 39 Capitol Guesthouse (Phnom Le Bout du Monde (Kep), 176 Penh), 71 Le Flamboyant (Kep), 176 Champa Koh Kong Guest- Le Manguiers (Kampot), Xe Bang Fai River, 306 house (Koh Kong), 166 170–171 Xplore-Asia, 308 Chhaya Hotel (Battambang), Le Meridien Angkor (Siem X-plore-asia (Vang Vieng), 243 138 Reap), 98–99 City River Hotel (Siem Reap), Little Garden Guesthouse 104 (Kampot), 171 Yak Lom Lake (Banlung), 150 Cloud 9 Bungalows Long Vibol Guesthouse and Yinn Vannak (Phnom (Sihanoukville), 157 Restaurant (Mondulkiri), Penh), 62 Cyclo Hotel (Phnom Penh), 67 151 Youth Garden Golf Course Dugout Hotel (Koh Kong), 166 Malibu Bungalows (Siha- (Vientiane), 234 Ei8ht Rooms (Siem Reap), 104 noukville), 157 FCC Angkor (Siem Reap), 101 Mandalay Inn (Siem Reap), Frangipani Villa (Phnom 105 ACCOMMODATIONS— Penh), 68 Manor House (Phnom CAMBODIA Gecko House (Banlung), 150 Penh), 66 Golden Banana (Siem Reap), Markara Guest House (Siha- Allson Angkor Hotel (Siem 102 noukville), 157 Reap), 100 Golden Gate Hotel (Phnom Nature Lodge (Banlung), 151 Almond Hotel (Phnom Penh), Penh), 69 Orchidee Guest House 64, 66 Golden Mekong Hotel (Sihanoukville), 158 Amanjaya Hotel (Phnom (Phnom Penh), 67 Oudom Sambath Hotel Penh), 63 Golden Palace Hotel (Kratie), 147 Amansara Resort (Siem (Battambang), 138 Passaggio (Siem Reap), 105 Reap), 97 Goldiana (Phnom Penh), 69 The Pavilion (Phnom Penh), Amber Villa (Phnom Penh), 68 Goldie Boutique Guesthouse 66–67 Angkor Palace Resort and (Phnom Penh), 68 Pavillon d’Orient (Siem Spa (Siem Reap), 97 Heng Heng Hotel (Kratie), 147 Reap), 101–102 Pavillon Indochine (Siem Viroth’s Hotel (Siem Reap), 103 Hotel Riveria (Tha Khek), 304 339 Reap), 102–103 Yaklom Hill Lodge (Banlung), Inter City Hotel (Vientiane), 218 The Quay (Phnom Penh), 64 149 Inthira Champanakone Hotel Raffles Grand Hotel D’Angkor You Hong Guesthouse (Champasak), 315 (Siem Reap), 99 (Kratie), 147 Inthira Hotel (Tha Khek), 304 Raffles Hotel Le Royal Kangkhong Villa Guesthouse (Phnom Penh), 64 (Don Khong), 318 Rainbow Lodge (Koh Kong), ACCOMMODATIONS— Keoudomphone Hotel (Huay 166 LAOS Xai), 290 Reef Resort (Sihanoukville), Khamphouy Guest House Ancient Luang Prabang, 261 158 (Champasak), 315 Anouxa Guest House Rikitikitavi (Kampot), 171 Kheamxam Guest House (Champasak), 315 Royal Hotel (Battambang), (Sam Neua), 295 The Apsara (Luang Prabang), 139 Khoun and Khone Guest 258–259 Royal Inn Hotel (Phnom House (Luang Prabang), 264 Aramid Guesthouse (Huay Penh), 67 Khounsavanh Guest House Xai), 290 Santepheap Hotel (Kratie), (Luang Prabang), 264 Asian Pavilion Hotel 147 Kong Keo Guesthouse (Vientiane), 217 Seng Hout Hotel (Battam- (Phonsavan), 293–294 Auberge de la Plaine des bang), 139–140 KP Hotel (Vientiane), 218 Jarres (Phonsavan), 293 Shadow of Angkor Guest La Folie Lodge (Champasak), Auberge Sala Done Khong House (Siem Reap), 105–106 315 (Don Khong), 318 Shinta Mani (Siem Reap), 102 La Maison de Xanamkieng Auberge Sala Don Khone, 319 Sofitel Royal Angkor (Siem (Luang Prabang), 261 Avalon Hotel (Vientiane), Reap), 99 Lani Guest House 219–220 Sokha Angkor (Siem Reap), (Vientiane), 218 Ban Pack Luck Villa (Luang 99–100 Lao Orchid Hotel (Vientiane), Prabang), 261 Sokha Beach Resort (Siha- 216 Ban Sabai Bungalow (Vang noukville), 156 Lao Plaza (Vientiane), 214 Vieng), 244 Sokha Guesthouse (Kom- Lao Wooden House (Luang Ban Tang Guest House (Vang pong Chhnang), 145 Prabang), 261 Vieng), 246 Sokha Inn (Sihanoukville), 156 La Residence Phou Vao Bungalow Thavansouk (Vang Somrongsen Hotel (Kompong (Luang Prabang), 259 Vieng), 244 Chhnang), 145 Le Calao (Luang Prabang), 262 The Champasak Grand Hotel Spring Park Hotel (Battam- Les 3 Nagas (Luang Prabang), (Pakse), 310 bang), 140 259–260 Champasak Palace Hotel Star Guesthouse (Kratie), 147 Lotus Villa Hotel (Luang (Pakse), 311 Star Hotel (Battambang), 139 Prabang), 262 Chan-a-Mar Resort (Nong Steung Siem Reap Hotel Mali Namphu Guest House Kiaow), 287 (Siem Reap), 103 (Vientiane), 218 The Chang Inn (Luang Sun Sengky Guest House Maly Hotel (Phonsavan), 293 Prabang), 259 (Siem Reap), 106 Mekong Riverview Hotel Chittana Guesthouse (Luang Sunshine Beach Hotel (Luang Prabang), 260 Prabang), 264 (Sihanoukville), 158 Merry Lao-Swiss Hotel City Inn Vientiane, 217 Teo Hotel (Battambang), 140 (Luang Prabang), 262 Day Inn Hotel (Vientiane), 220 Terres Rouges Lodge Mixay Guest House Don Chan Palace (Vientiane), (Banlung), 149 (Vientiane), 220 213 Town View Hotel (Phnom Monsaven Guest House The Elephant Crossing Hotel Penh), 70 (Pakbeng), 291 (Vang Vieng), 244–245 Tranquility Guesthouse Nam Song Garden (Vang Grand View Guest House (Sihanoukville), 158 Vieng), 246 (Vang Vieng), 246 Treetop Eco-Lodge Ning Ning Guesthouse Green Park Boutique Hotel (Banlung), 149 (Muang Ngoi Neua), 287 (Vientiane), 216 Two Dragons (Siem Reap), 105 Nong Kiau River Side (Nong Haysoke Guest House Veranda Natural Resort Kiaow), 287 (Vientiane), 217 (Kep), 176 Nong Soda Guesthouse Hotel Beau Rivage Victoria Angkor Hotel (Siem (Savannakhet), 298 (Vientiane), 217 Reap), 100 Novotel Vientiane, 214 Hotel Khamvongsa (Vien- Villa Lanka Hotel (Phnom Oudomphone Guest House tiane), 217–218 Penh), 69 (Huay Xai), 289–290 340 Pak Beng Lodge (Pakbeng), Thavisouk Hotel (Vang FCC Angkor (Foreign Corre- 291–292 Vieng), 245–246 spondent’s Club; Siem The Pakse Hotel, 311 Vang Vieng Orchid, 247 Reap), 108 Phonepaseud Hotel Vang Vieng Resort, 247 Foreign Correspondents Club (Savannakhet), 300 The Vansana Plain of Jars (FCC; Phnom Penh), 71–72 Phonepaseuth Guest House Hotel (Phonsavan), 293 Fresh Eats Cafe (Battambang), (Vientiane), 220 Vansana Vang Vieng Hotel, 141 Phonethip Guest House 246 Friends (Mith Samlanh) Restau- (Pakbeng), 291 Vayakorn Guest House rant (Phnom Penh), 77–78 The Phongsali Hotel, 288–289 (Vientiane), 219 Frizz (Phnom Penh), 75 Phou Fa Hotel (Phongsali), 289 Vilayvang Guest House Gecko Cafe (Battambang), Pon’s Guest House (Don (Vang Vieng), 247 141 Khong), 318 Villa Aekhan (Vang Vieng), 247 Happa Restaurant and Wine Poukham Guest House Villa Maly (Luang Prabang), Bar (Sihanoukville), 159 (Phonsavan), 293 260 Happy Herb’s Pizza (Phnom Puchan Resort (Phonsavan), Villa Salika (Pakbeng), 291 Penh), 76 293 Villa Santi Hotel (Luang Holy Cow (Sihanoukville), 159 RD Guest House (Vientiane), Prabang), 260 Huxley’s (Phnom Penh), 76 220–221 Villa Santi Resort (Luang Jasmine (Kampot), 171–172 Riverine Hotel (Vientiane), 219 Prabang), 260–261 Java Café and Gallery Riverside Guest House Villa Sokxai I (Luang (Phnom Penh), 79 (Luang Prabang), 262–263 Prabang), 263–264 Kama Sutra (Siem Reap), 109 Riverside Hotel (Vientiane), Xayamoungkhoun Guest Kandal House (Phnom 219 House (Savannakhet), 300 Penh), 76 Sabaidy 2 (Pakse), 311 Khmer Kitchen Restaurant Sabaydee Guest House (Huay (Siem Reap), 110 Xai), 289 RESTAURANTS— Khmer Surin (Phnom Penh), 78 Saisouk Guest House CAMBODIA K West (Phnom Penh), 76 (Savannakhet), 300 Abacus (Siem Reap), 106 La Croisette (Phnom Penh), Sala Champa (Pakse), 311 Angkor Café, 112 76–77 Sala Hinboun (near Tha Angkor Palm (Siem Reap), 109 La Résidence (Phnom Penh), 72 Khek), 306 Baan Peakmai (Koh Kong), 166 Le Bistrot de Siem Reap, 106 Sala Prabang (Luang Bamboo Light Café Le Deauville (Phnom Penh), 77 Prabang), 263 (Kampot), 171 Le Jardin Café (Phnom Sala Savanh (Savannakhet), Bamboo Light Café Penh), 79 300 (Sihanoukville), 159 Les Feuilles (Sihanoukville), Sang Aroun Hotel (Pakse), Blue Pumpkin (Siem Reap), 160 312 111, 112 Le Tigre de Papier (Siem Sayo Guest House (Luang Bob’s Bar (Koh Kong), 166 Reap), 110 Prabang), 263 Boddhi Tree Umma (Phnom Long Vibol Guesthouse and Saysouly Guest House Penh), 79 Restaurant (Mondulkiri), 151 (Vientiane), 221 Bus Stop (Battambang), 140 Madame Butterfly (Siem Senesouk Guesthouse Butterflies Garden Restau- Reap), 108 (Luang Prabang), 263 rant (Siem Reap), 111–112 Maharajah (Sihanoukville), Sengdao Guest House (Nong Cafe Indochine (Siem Reap), 160 Kiaow), 287 108 Malis (Phnom Penh), 78 Settha Palace Hotel (Vien- Café Metro (Phnom Penh), 74 Meric (Siem Reap), 106 tiane), 214, 216 Cantina (Phnom Penh), 74–75 Mick and Craig’s (Siha- Somkhounmuong Guest Cantina Del Mar (Siha- noukville), 160 House (Luang Prabang), noukville), 159 Mitthapeap Restaurant 264 Chivit Thai (Siem Reap), 109 (Kompong Chhnang), 146 Souksomboun Hotel (Tha Chocolate by The Shop Origami (Phnom Penh), 72 Khek), 305 (Phnom Penh), 80 Pacharan (Phnom Penh), 77 Souphaphone Guesthouse The Cold Night (Battam- Paco’s (Sihanoukville), 160 (Vientiane), 219 bang), 140–141 Pim’s (Sihanoukville), 160 Sunset Guest House (Nong Comme a la Maison (Phnom Pink Elephant (Phnom Kiaow), 287 Penh), 78 Penh), 77 Tai Pan Hotel (Vientiane), 216 The Deli (Phnom Penh), 80 Pkay Proek (Battambang), 141 Thakhek Travel Lodge (Tha Fat Boy (Phnom Penh), 79–80 Pomme d’Amour (Battam- Khek), 305 bang), 141 The Red Piano (Siem Reap), The Cote d’Azur Pizzeria Makphet (Vientiane), 225 341 108 (Vientiane), 224 Mex Alexia (Vientiane), 225 Red Sun Falling (Kratie), 147 Couleur Café and Restaurant Mittaphap Restaurant 112 Restaurant (Phnom (Luang Prabang), 267 (Vientiane), 226 Penh), 72 Craters Bar and Restaurant Muang Neua (Huay Xai), 290 Riel Bar and Restaurant (Phonsavan), 294 Nang Bot Restaurant (Vang (Kep), 177 Dao Fa (Luang Prabang), 270 Vieng), 248 Rikitikitavi (Kampot), 171 Dao-Fa (Vientiane), 226 The Nazim (Vientiane), 226 Riverfront Restaurant (Koh The Dao Savanh (Savanna- Nazim Restaurant (Luang Kong), 166 khet), 300–301 Prabang), 268 River House (Phnom Penh), Delta Coffee Shop and Res- Nazim Restaurant (Pakse), 312 72, 74 taurant (Pakse), 312 Nisha (Phonsavan), 294 The Riverside Balcony Bar Douang Deune Restaurant Nisha Restaurant (Vang (Battambang), 141–142 (Vientiane), 224 Vieng), 248 Romdeng (Phnom Penh), 77 Duc Restaurant (Tha Khek), Nut Pop (Huay Xai), 290 Rusty Keyhole (Kampot), 172 305 Park Houay Mixay (Luang Sal’s Restaurant and Bar Erewan Restaurant (Vang Prabang), 268–269 (Banlung), 150 Vieng), 248 Phoypailin Minimart (Pakse), Sauna Garden Bar (Koh The Full Moon Café 313 Kong), 166 (Vientiane), 224 Pizza Boy (Pakse), 313 Shinta Mani (Siem Reap), 109 Hare and Hound (Vientiane), Restaurant Café Chez The Shop (Phnom Penh), 80 224 (Savannakhet), 301 Smokin’ Pot (Battambang), 142 Indochina Spirit (Luang Riverside Huay Restaurant Snakehouse (Sihanoukville), Prabang), 267 (Huay Xai), 290 161 The Jasmine Restaurant Sabaidee Tha Khek! (Tha Soup Dragon (Siem Reap), 110 (Pakse), 312 Khek), 305 Starfish Café (Sihanoukville), Joma Bakery Café (Vientiane), Sa Nga Restaurant 161 226 (Phonsavan), 294 Sugar Palm (Phnom Penh), 80 Just for Fun (Vientiane), 226 The SavanLaoderm The Sugar Palm (Siem Reap), Kamphong Sihavong (Pakse), (Savannakhet), 301 110 313 Scandinavian Bakery (Luang Sunset Bar (Koh Kong), 166 Kangaroo Sunset Bar (Vang Prabang), 270 Ta Eou (Kampot), 172 Vieng), 248 The Scandinavian Bakery Taj Mahal (Siem Reap), 111 Ketmany Restaurant (Pakse), (Vientiane), 226 Talkin’ to a Stranger (Phnom 312 The Shade Restaurant Penh), 79 Khop Chai Deu Restaurant (Vientiane), 226 Tell Restaurant (Siem Reap), and Bar (Vientiane), Smile Barge Restaurant (Tha 111 224–225 Khek), 305–306 Topaz (Phnom Penh), 74 La Belle Epoque (Vientiane), Sticky Fingers (Vientiane), Van’s Restaurant (Phnom 221 225–226 Penh), 74 La Cave des Chateaux (Luang The Swedish Pizza & Baking Viroth’s Restaurant (Siem Prabang), 266 House (Vientiane), 227 Reap), 111 Le Banneton (Vientiane), 226 The Tamarind Café (Luang White Rose (Battambang), 142 Le Café Ban Wat Sene (Luang Prabang), 269 Prabang), 270 Tamnaklao-the Three Ele- Le Central (Vientiane), 225 phants Restaurant (Luang RESTAURANTS—LAOS L’Elephant Restaurant (Luang Prabang), 268 Amphone (Vientiane), 222 Prabang), 266 Vieng Kheam Khong (Luang The Apsara (Luang Prabang), Le Nadao (Vientiane), 221–222 Prabang), 269 266 Le Panorama (Pakse), 312–313 Villa Santi (Luang Prabang), Bamboo Bar and Restaurant Le Silapa (Vientiane), 222 268 (Don Det), 319 Les 3 Nagas (Luang Prabang), Xayoh Café (Vientiane), 227 Blue Lagoon Restaurant 266–267 The Xayoh Restaurant (Vang (Luang Prabang), 267 L’Etranger Books & Tea Vieng), 248 Café des Arts (Luang (Luang Prabang), 269 Xokxay Restaurant (Savanna- Prabang), 268 L’Opera (Vientiane), 222 khet), 301–302 Chill Out Café (Luang Luang Prabang Bakery, 270 XuanMai (Pakse), 313 Prabang), 267 Luang Prabang Bakery (Vang Chokdee Café (Vientiane), 222 Vieng), 248 NOTES