©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd South Coast ELEV 0-1800M / POP 1.8 MILLION / AREA 27,817 SQ KM Why Go? Koh Kong Province .......160 Ever wonder what Southern Thailand was like decades ago, The Southern Islands ...168 before the crowds arrived? The South Coast of Cambodia Koh Sdach might provide some clues. The country’s coastline is tiny Archipelago .................. 169 compared with its northern neighbour’s, but it remains Koh Rong & Koh Rong practically deserted save for a clutch of fabulously diverse Samloem ....................... 171 coastal towns: Koh Kong (the cowboy border town), Siha- noukville (the brash temptress), Kampot (the suave French Koh Russei .....................173 colonialist) and Kep (the faded monarch). Koh Ta Kiev ....................174 A round these cities you won’t fi nd much besides jungle, a Koh Thmei .....................174 few truly idyllic islands and long stretches of powdery sand Kompong Som marred only by your footprints. Developers have long been Province .........................174 drooling over the potential of this richly ecodiverse area, Sihanoukville .................175 but most large-scale projects have been slow to material- Kampot Province ......... 189 ise. Small resort owners have moved in, establishing little Bokor National Park .....194 colonies of coolness on patches of paradise along the coast- line. Inland, legitimate ecotourism initiatives tempt adven- Kep................................ 195 turous and responsible travellers. Takeo Province .............200 When to Go Best Places to Eat December, January and February are the coolest months. It starts heating up in March, and temps build to a crescen- » Sailing Club (p 199 ) do in April before the monsoon rains start in May (a little » Rikitikitavi (p 192 ) earlier than elsewhere in Cambodia) and end in November » Chez Claude (p 183 ) (a little later than elsewhere). The rains tend to be steadier and more severe on the South Coast than elsewhere, but » Kimly Restaurant (p 198 ) don’t let this disrupt your travel plans. The scenery is lush » Holy Cow (p 183 ) and beautiful in the rainy season and the clouds provide welcome respite from the searing sun. Best Places to Stay » Lazy Beach (p 172 ) » Mushroom Point (p 181 ) » Vine Retreat (p 197 ) » Les Manguiers (p 192 ) » Independence Hotel (p 180 ) Phnom Knang Central Cardamoms T H A I L A N D Trapeang Protected Forest NH5 (1213m) KOMPONG Ko Mak Cardamom Mountains Knong CHHNANG Udong Khlong Yai Koh Por Krapeur Roleak Kang Waterfall (Chuor Phnom Kravanh) (1000m) Cheung Tatai Waterfall Veal II Ranger Chamnar NH44 Hat Lek Checkpoint NH6 Ko Kut Cham Yeam Thma Chumnoab Bang Southern Koh Kong PHNOM Mekong Tatai Cardamoms PENH City KOMPONG NH51 Peam Krasaop Bridge Areng Areng Protected Forest River Wildlife Sanctuary River Valley SPEU Takhmau NH48 Kompong Speu Koh Kapi NH1 KOH KONG NH4 Tonlé Koh Kong Trapaeng Preak Piphot Bati KANDAL Island Rung River Kirirom Alatang Chi Phat National NH46 Preak Khsach Park Andoung NH2 NH21 Koh Kong Conservation Phnom Tuek B Tonlé Corridor Park NH48 Kirovong III Dam Chisor assac Headquarters NH3 Ta Nhi Ta Op Sre Ambel (ChuorElephant Phnom Mount Dam Plauv Bombek Botum Sakor Sre Ambel National Park Angk Tasaom Kaam NH4 Takeo Koh Sdach Thmor Angkor Borei Samnor Ta Nun Sor Bokor KAMPOT Koh Samit Poi Phnom Da Yopon Gulf of National Park Kompong Som ains Chhuk TAKEO KOMPONG NH3 Tani Stung Hau SOM rei) NH2 Veal Renh KRONG KEP Phnom Koh Rong Prek Treng Kamchay Dam Tchea Tapech Beach Kbal Chhay Phnom Chau Tek Chhouu 113 Kirivong Sihanoukville Cascades Rapids Voa Tuk Meas Phnom Doc Occheutteal Beach Ream Prey Bayong Gulf of Thailand Ampul Kampot Aeu Tinh Bien Otres Beach NH33 Kompong Southern NH41 Thmor Thom Kep National Trach Islands Ream Koh Thmei Park Kep Phnom Den 0 50 km Koh National Koh Tonsay Prek Chak 0 30 miles Ta Kiev Park Phu Quoc Xa Xia Koh Seh Island Koh Pos Ha Tien V I E T N A M South Coast Highlights 1 Drifting idly among the rivers and remote waterfalls of where exertion consists of yet 5 Partying on Ocheutteal (p 195 ), the midcentury mecca magical southern islands the Koh Kong Conservation another cocktail run Beach (p 175 ), one of of Cambodia’s jet set (p 168 ), home to low-key resorts Corridor (p 164 ), now opening 4 Kicking back in Kampot southeast Asia’s top 7 Visiting fog-enveloped and lonely white beaches up to ecotourism (p 189 ), a charming river town backpacker spots Bokor National Park (p 194 ), COAST SOUTH COAST SOUTH Exploring the pristine Chilling on Sihanoukville’s with some of Cambodia’s COAST best- SOUTH Sampling remote islands with its abandoned casino and 2 3 6 159 rainforests, mangrove-lined mellow Otres Beach (p 181 ), preserved French architecture and fresh seafood around Kep (sometimes) breathtaking views.