Florence City Guide ®

FLORENCE CITY GUIDE ®

MAY 2020 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE Grand tour Discover & Enjoy Italy BEST DESTINATIONS BEAUTY AND DINING

ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE

whereMAGAZINE Florence Siamo qui da secoli. Vi aspettiamo. www.whereitalia.com/florence We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you. Messaggio dal Paese più bello del mondo. PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE A message from the most beautiful country in the world. Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 [email protected] The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the Il settore del turismo ha sofferto più di tutti www.whereitalia.com/florence global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing della recente pandemia. I lockdown, le chiusure PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Andrea Jarach of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this Andrea Jarach dei confini, il crollo del reddito disponibile, nel [email protected] editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about Publisher momento in cui scrivo potrebbero ispirare solo COO Where® Pierfrancesco Coreno Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout depressione. Ma stiamo invece parlando dell’Italia. [email protected] history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, La meta preferita per secoli dai viaggiatori. Infinite volte sfidata da MANAGING EDITOR Alessandra Finzi and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the guerre, carestie, epidemie e infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più [email protected] most desirable tourist destination in the world. CONTRIBUTORS desiderato al mondo. Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you Chiara Zaccarelli Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono will see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock essere già colti anche oggi. L’analisi dei big data di internet mostra CARTOGRAPHY shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions l’Italia come prima destinazione ricercata in milioni di interrogazioni City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub - of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is Venice online. L’offerta del nostro Paese è immensamente vasta per tesori © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World MARKETING & ADVERTISING naturali e culturali. Siamo il Paese con il maggior numero di Siti Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni UNESCO Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Se fossimo un museo saremmo il [email protected] in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the museo più grande del mondo. Se fossimo un ristorante quello con la ADMINISTRATION world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it Katia Greto cucina più apprezzata. Se fossimo una spiaggia quella meglio attrezzata [email protected] would be the best equipped in the world. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are al mondo. SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Paola Grilli only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is Montagne, foreste e boschi, laghi, colline paesaggi unici [email protected] made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was contraddistinguono l’Italia. Ma tutto questo poi è reso unico dalla HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Florence Maria Granata a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, gente. Meglio, dalle genti. Per millenni la penisola fu meta di migrazioni [email protected] settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in e popoli del nord o del mare si installarono apportando nuove culture CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini the creation of Italy. che andarono a creare l’Italia. [email protected]

REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia, PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il in the next issue. experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the Rinascimento. information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences Turin the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance! arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole Where® è qui per svolgere la sua missione di guidare i viaggiatori or in part is strictly prohibited. Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS alla scoperta dell’Italia, anche nel nuovo Rinascimento. WHERE® FLORENCE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI FIRENZE to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance. WHERE® FLORENCE IS AVAILABLE IN FLORENCE’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS A presto! FLORENCE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION We look forward to seeing you soon! The Publisher L'Editore Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered MVP trademarks of Morris Morris Visitor Publications Visitor Publications. >> Per verificare i giorni e le modalità di apertura di >> To check the opening of museums, restaurants, MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS musei, ristoranti, negozi e outlet: www.wheremilan.com MVP EXECUTIVE stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III Rome PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR

Virtual Tours of Italian Museums What can you do when at home for the Coronavirus lockdown? Why not visit a museum in a new way, with a virtual tour, for example. We've rounded up a selection of the Milanese and Italian museums virtually opening their doors to the public thanks to their websites and official social media accounts. BY GIULIA MINERO

ven during these days at home facing the COVID-19 emergency, the culture never stops. Institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are all united to provide their visitors with the Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan Echance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions – which are all closed to the public – and even enjoy site-specific events and special activities. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you’ll be spoilt for Reality stories. Sunday: Leonardo da Vinci. choice. Enjoy your visit! Museo della Scienza Other online activities are held on the official e della Tecnologia Facebook, Instagram and YouTube accounts. Pinacoteca di Brera “Leonardo da Vinci” >> Check the online activities at MILAN MILAN www.museoscienza.org The Museum is still working to share its Those who are at home for the safety measures most precious treasures with its visitors. to prevent the spread of COVID-19 or people Fondazione Prada #storieaportechiuse engages visitors of all who just would like to visit a museum and don’t MILAN ages in behind-the-scenes tours, explorations have the chance to do it can take advantage During the lockdown connected to the of the collections and archives, science news, of a new concept of museum visits powered COVID-19 issue, Milan’s Fondazione Prada educational lab activities... with videos, pictures by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to and unpublished documents. Most of the On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can various online services enabling visitors to contents are published in Italian in order to reach discover over 669 works of art thanks to the fully discover the foundation and its heritage more effectively the local audiences. Yet you can online collection. Each masterpiece features straight from their homes. According to this still enjoy the beautiful pictures and fascinating a caption, a description of the context in new concept of multimedia experience, visual material provided in the program. Here which it was created, the used technique and the foundation’s website, as well as the is the daily schedule, every week: Monday: some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo Stories from the Museum’s deposits and behind- magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors and YouTube accounts become the ideal the-scenes work. Tuesday: Interactive workshops can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and stage to share ideas and explore new ways and informal education. Wednesday: Science religious images as if they were discovering to experiment with culture. Thanks to and technology news. Thursday: Tales from them inside the museum. the “Glossary” section, for instance, the the Museum’s history. Friday: Items from the Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”, Milan >> Check the online collection at various projects connected to art, cinema, Museum’s archives and libraries. Saturday: Virtual pinacotecabrera.org dance, music, architecture and philosophy

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Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section the museum through Art Talks dedicated to on the official website allows guests to enjoy masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, between art from the past and the various podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, cultures of the world. Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Musei Vaticani - Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, The Vatican Museums Instagram @guggenheim_venice, ROME Twitter @GuggenheimPGC The various halls of the Vatican Museums >> Check the online collections at in Rome – which include 26 sections and www.guggenheim-venice.it museums-within-the-museum, among which the Stanze di Raffaello (Raffaello’s Rooms) and the Sistine Chapel – can be Museo e Real Bosco Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice Museo Egizio, Turin admired thanks to 360-degree virtual tours. di Capodimonte The tours are available online on the official NAPLES website and also enable visitors to enjoy a Thanks to the collaboration between is still active. Daily at 5pm artists, designers close-up view of the thousands of works MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, and architects can be seen and heard of art part of the Popes’ collection gathered the cultural and artistic gems of the live on the official Instagram account through the centuries. Videos and other Capodimonte Museum near Naples can (@triennalemilano). Moreover, the official multimedia contents can be discovered be admired online straight from home. PERSONAL STORIES. Drawing website enables visitors to enjoy interviews, on the official YouTube channel. The online Google Art&Culture platform inspiration from Giovanni Boccaccio's podcasts and highlights on the world of art gathers over 536 works of art hosted in “The Decameron”, about a group of and culture, as well as videos and images >> Check the online activities at the museum and on its adjacent park. young people who stayed outside from the historical archives of the Triennale. www.museivaticani.va Over 203 paintings can be seen and Florence for ten days to escape the Other online activities are held on the official analysed close-up thanks to the Art Black Plague in 1348 and took turns Facebook and YouTube accounts. Peggy Guggenheim Camera technology, while the special in telling stories to kill the time, >> Check the online activities at Collection Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy Triennale Milano has invited artists, www.triennale.org VENICE 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the designers, architects, intellectuals, musicians, singers, writers, directors The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues masterpieces hosted in the museum and in and journalists to "inhabit" Triennale its educational mission with weekly e-news the alleys of the Real Bosco. Museo Egizio Milano’s empty spaces in order to TURIN and social media programs that include >> Check the online collections at

CBLUE PLANET STUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM The Vatican Museums, Rome www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it develop a personal story. © The second largest Egyptian Museum in innovative content designed to share the world after the one in Cairo, the Museo launched from 1993 up to our days become Egizio in Turin can be enjoyed thanks to the protagonists of an ideal dialogue of art special guided tours. Led by the museum’s thanks to images, videos, texts and extracts director – Mr. Christian Greco – and available from catalogues. Conversely, the Inner Views Live streamings for free on the official Youtube account, the initiative has been created to substitute a Virtually strolling through gardens, 8-minute tours help visitors discover insightful real visit to the spaces of the Fondazione discovering historical dwellings highlights on the featured findings. Other and to enable visitors to discover the three and their precious objects is now multimedia contents can be found on the featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, possibile thanks to FAI – Fondo official Instagram account (@museoegizio). Ambiente Italiano. The Italian “Storytelling” and “K” – thanks to an online >> Check the online activities at National Trust has indeed powered learning method based on interviews, museoegizio.it its brad-new #Italiamimanchi online images, videos and focus on the featured project enabling visitors to enjoy masterpieces. A more complete vision of some of its most widely-appreciated art is provided by the Outer Views section, Galleria degli Uffizi properties thanks to live streamings focusing on the contribution of works of art FLORENCE from the Fondazione Prada on loan to other on the official FAI account on The MuseoCity association, together with important Italian and foreign institutions. Facebook, Instagram and on the Google Arts&Culture has introduced a >> Check the online collection at official YouTube channel. new way of visiting the precious museum in www.fondazioneprada.org Florence and its sections thanks to a selection >> Read more at of high-resolution images of the featured https://www.wheremilan.com/news/ Triennale Milano works, which include masterpieces by great italiamimanchi-online-tours-fai/ MILAN Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Though Milan’s most known design museum Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo is closed, its Triennale Decameron program Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence

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SEE MAP Top in Florence PAGE 42 SAN MINIATO AL MONTE 1 4 2 5 The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10

MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by 6 3 8 13 Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11

SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12 SHUTTERSTOCK SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, PHOTOS © the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, DUOMO AND CUPOLA CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the of statues of Renaissance origin, representing fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used The symbol of wealth and power, the building Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 in Florence was the largest Christian church Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main one of the most important sculptural cycles in the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. was inhabited by the Medici, then by the in the world. Today the religious building, the components of the complex of Santa Maria the world. The most famous is certainly At the end of the 16th century, however, Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, SANTO SPIRITO official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas when it became the “noble” zone of the city, by the Savoy family. The original architecture A point of reference of the Augustinian order. Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, the original is conserved in the Galleria the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the The church has given its name to the entire dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by dell’Accademia). 4 and they have been there uninterruptedly surname of its first owner. The building is located surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, to this day. 6 Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Gardens are one of the most important examples the church was the last great project by Filippo is a symbol known all over the world. 1 of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3 One of the most famous museums in the world CORRIDOIO VASARIANO of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 Brunelleschi. 14 on account of its extraordinary collections of The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway BATTISTERO PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA ancient sculptures and paintings (from the connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO SAN LORENZO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is AND PALAZZO VECCHIO Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to This is the most famous and appreciated One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, characterised by an octagonal plan, lined This is the central square of Florence, the seat occupies the first and second floors of the large which is at the beginning of the second panoramic point in Florence, with its views according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, with a dome of eight segments, covered by of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing building erected between 1560 and 1580 corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches seen all over the world in million of postcards the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, and reproductions. The design of the square Its current appearance, however, is the result of with white marble from Carrara and green Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital the last major reconstruction work that took marble from Prato, characteristics of the Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della PONTE VECCHIO 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle The official date of foundation of the current Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Medici and under the direction of the great period. 2 Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire 1000 paintings. 7 Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9 architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15

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DUOMO 1 and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old one of the most important cultural centres in BRERA DISTRICT 8 ago to ferry people and merchandise to districts. The heart of the area is the large Among one of the most important Gothic and young alike. Map E4 the city, hosting exhibitions of international This is an artsy neighbourhood which really Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by raised square dedicated to architect and buildings in the world, the church constructed renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on over a period of 450 years is the symbol of CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s Brera is one of the most important museums with trendy dining and nightlife spots. you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most One of the most famous attractions in the square. Map F5 in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a Map E6 the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.the new BAM- majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da wealth of exceptionally good Italian and Biblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2 Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting PIAZZA SCALA 6 foreign masterpieces. Map F3 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 representing the scene of the last supper The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. AMBROSIANA 9 largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Since 1923 this is an international institution Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using In the center of the square is the monument The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite Europe. Off Map which organises exhibitions and events about housing luxury cafés and famous designer a technique that was chemically imperfect dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 works of art from the 15th through 17th arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a and by the early 16th century it has started centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on SANT’AMBROGIO 12 photography and theatre. Map D3 beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 to flake and decay, resulting in numerous MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it 15 restorations. Map D4 Milan is known as one of the the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where CIMITERO MONUMENTALE CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 shopping capitals of the world and via Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the martyrs had been buried. Map E5 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was PALAZZO REALE 5 Montenapoleone, together with the Golden best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now Formerly the residence of all those who Quad, is entirely given over to luxury PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 society, and on the other to works of art simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal shopping. Here the most important fashion NAVIGLI 10 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two by famous sculptors of various eras. It houses a number of interesting museums House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola Map E1

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SEE MAP Top in Venice PAGE 46 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE 1 11 6 4 This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10

LIDO DI VENEZIA 4KCLIPS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM F11PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ALEXANTON / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

© © The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing 1513 3 the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11

THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings

OLGA GAVRILOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM CANADASTOCK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of © © Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO CANAL GRANDE name derives are not those of lovers, but those pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO This is the most important catholic church in Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were to facilitate access to the popular Rialto A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps THE ISLANDS the city. The original church dates back to street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is from Campo San Manin: a combination of Although the whole of Venice lies on an before the year 1000, while its famous waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 lined on both sides by shops. It includes as Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of generally means a half-day cruise on a boat and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. hotels and other public buildings, it offers a TEATRO LA FENICE history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Inside, a triumphant array of domes and journey back into history, evoking the pomp Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored spectacular when seen from the water, perforated like lace. The architectural beauty Burano, three charming, small islands, rich transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. to its former splendour (the last time was perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 of the stairwell, combined with the view that in history and tradition. Murano is famous numerous other treasures. 1 Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well throughout the world for its hand-blown where the Grand Canal empties into the been Venice's principal stage for world-class GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA worth a visit. 8 glass (artisanal workshops still display PALAZZO DUCALE lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its They host the most important collection of glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository harbour stands at an important point. Today high point came in the 19th century when it Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE of the lagoon, once a thriving town with of innumerable art treasures, it features a it hosts important collective or monographic hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can DI SAN ROCCO 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island number of different and intricate architectural exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, A Renaissance complex consisting of a church with only 17 permanent residents and two and ornamental details, dating from the 9th Collection. 3 associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of medieval churches that speak poignantly century. Formerly the residence and also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 and Tiepolo and works by several important devotion to San Rocco who was called upon of past glories. Burano is one of the most government centre of the Doge sit not only PONTE DEI SOSPIRI landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto to protect the plague-stricken population of photographed sights in the world, thanks houses temporary exhibitions but can also be A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di PONTE DI RIALTO and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting Venice during the 15th century. The interiors to colourful houses reflected in its canals. visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale This is the oldest and most beautiful of the these works occupies the ancient church of are filled with numerous treasures, including It is also famous for its artisanal lace work access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Santa Maria della Carità and a complex an impressive number of works by Tintoretto and a particular kind of biscuit, which also by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its Originally built during medieval times as a designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7 as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9 resembles lace. 13

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SEE MAP Top in Turin PAGE 48

factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the 17 10 10 13 wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of LUCA SANTILLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIMAS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © © © Cinema. 11

15 15 11 ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by MICHELE D'OTTAVIO

© the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. 5 An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ANDREA GUERMANI CKTRAVELLING/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ©

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE MOLE ANTONELLIANA artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future VIA PO PROMENADE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was The archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean- name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th purchased by the municipality who decided to François Champollion once said: ‘the road to France, who took up residence here in 1600. The magnificent residence, distinguished by the via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo make it a monument to Italian unification. Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2 view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is remains of its original 18th century absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its spectacular. 4 decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the construction it was the highest brick building in MUSEI REALI gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now PARCO DEL VALENTINO circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and which connects it to the square of the church of Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host squat square base topped by a large dome with owned by the Italian government. The museum Located on the banks of the Po River, and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 observation platform either by elevator or on sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, popular park. Its interior houses numerous TEATRO REGIO foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a The Regio is one of the most important Italian PIAZZA SAN CARLO PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the theatres on the European scene, offering an Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km marking the beginning of a major urban circuit of the Royal Residences action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was commissioned by Marie Christine of France from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, MUSEO EGIZIO transformation and the enrichment of the of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and was designed by Filippo Juvarra and in true Parisian style with seemingly endless Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is dynastic collections, which now include artifacts Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an celebrations and events. At the beginning of the the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took the second in terms of the value and quality of VILLA DELLA REGINA Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during PALAZZO MADAMA The summer country residence of the House of building that still remains is its façade, now a became the headquarters of the Furniture Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, LINGOTTO Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer always been a reference point in the city, from century as a court vineyard. It became known as named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is This complex of buildings built in 1916, based Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 Roman times to 1848, when it became the Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when by Umberto Mastroianni. 7 on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT world heritage site. 15

12 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 13 [ ITALIAN GRAND TOUR ]

Top in Rome SEE MAP PAGE 50

1 2 9

3 4 6 0 13

COLOSSEUM 1 the Four Rivers, which encompasses with the imperious statue of Oceano many more. The Sistine Chapel by Passetto, a passageway used to be a summit of the Campidoglio is located The Colosseum is the indestructible an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of dominating the scene. Make sure to toss Michelangelo is regarded as one of secret escape for the popes. the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, symbol of the Eternal City and the four river gods. Other two magnificent a coin or two into its famous waters to the major artistic accomplishments of Map C2/3 reachable by a steep staircase counting largest amphitheatre ever built. It was fountains decorate the piazza: the assure your return to Rome. Map E3 human civilization. Map B2 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 124 steps. Map D4 used for gladiatorial contests and public fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 PANTHEON 8 It is a marble mask which stands PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12 spectacles such as mock sea battles, of the Neptune. Map D3 The greatest church in the world with art The city only architecturally intact against the left wall of Santa Maria in It is an enormous square architecturally wild animal hunts, executions, and PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 masterpieces including Michelangelo’s monument from classical times, Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector superb and perfectly symmetrical, reenactments of famous battles. The most famous staircase in the world, Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC from another time, it attracts dominated by an Egyptian obelisk Map F4 with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior thousands of visitors who audaciously and enriched by important churches ROMAN FORUM 2 Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of dome dominates the grandiose scene, measures 43.4 m in width and height. stick their hand in the mouth. such as the church of Santa Maria del The heart of Ancient Rome. See the the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the Light and air (and even rain) enter According to legend, a liar who puts Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, Monti church at the very top. At its feet solemn entrance to the Vatican and the through the opening at the top his hand in the mouth will have it Caravaggio and Pinturicchio. the House of the Vestal Virgins, and is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia Christendom. Map B3 through which the sky pervade the bitten off. Map D5 Map D1 by Bernini from which begins Via temple. Map D3 more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 CAPITOLINE HILL ! VILLA BORGHESE 13 Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Condotti, the most exclusive shopping CASTEL SANT’ANGELO One of the seven hills of Rome, The most important museum of Rome 9 The most celebrated and easily accessible Map E/F4/5 street in Rome. Map E2 Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, boasting a piazza, designed by with an incomparable collection villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill. TREVI FOUNTAIN transformed into a majestic fortress Michelangelo with a bronze copy PIAZZA NAVONA 3 5 of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Take a walk through its intricate gardens centuries later, now a museum. It is of the equestrian statue of Marcus One of the most beautiful squares in Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, Renaissance, and baroque art; works or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del joined to the Vatican by the famous Aurelius in the middle. On the highest Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of celebrating the triumph of waters by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and Lago. Map D1

14 WHERE FLORENCEVENICE I MAY I MAY 2020 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 15 WHERE NOW | HOT DATES WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE ◄ TIFFANY & CO. From the combination of stylised angles 6 JANUARY 1 MAY 26 JULY and sleek lines comes the marvellous purity CAVALCATA DEI MAGI TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI FESTA DI SANT’ANNA GIFT of the “Tiffany T” collection. This splendid A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany A contest between historical groups of A secular and religious festival held near yellow gold and corniola pendant framed when Three Wise Men brought gifts flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai the church of Orsanmichele, in which the by sparkling diamonds, with an intense of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the brightness and an extraordinary lustre, Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes in Piazza della Signoria. city, is venerated. GUIDE is very modern. www.tiffany.it place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes. THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY 10 AUGUST We’ve compiled a short guide PALIO DEL BALUARDO FESTA DI SAN LORENZO offering ideas for this season. A crossbow shooting competition to It takes place in the morning with a A great opportunity to spend commemorate the birth of the Florentine “Historical Procession of the Florentine some pleasant moments Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa the Medici were expelled from Florence. through the streets of the historic centre to browsing the essential the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, The competition is held at the Bastione destinations for luxury shopping ► GREVI in Piazza San Lorenzo. known as the Fonte della Ginevra. in the centre of Florence, while A 1920s shape with raised brim enjoying its beauties. and hand-made grosgrain flower trim: this is just one 23 MAY END OF SEPTEMBER ® Where guarantees that you of the models by the historic LA FIORITA BACCO ARTIGIANO won’t leave empty-handed! company that has been working A Florentine tradition celebrating the A traditional Festival of Wine and the since 1875 to create women’s, RITRATTO DI ANNA MARIA LUISA CON I FIORI, OPERA ANTONIO FRANCHI, C. 1682–1683. RITRATTO burning at the stake of Dominican preacher outstanding products of the territory. men’s and children’s collections ANNA MARIA LUISA DE’ MEDICI Concomitant entertainment events are Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial using age-old workmanship also held to mark the occasion. figure in the city’s history. A wreath of techniques implemented by flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to ▼ BRANDIMARTE highly specialist personnel. 18 FEBRUARY him in Piazza della Signoria, after which From the silver jewellery collection, these www.grevi.it ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE rose petals are thrown into the Arno from silvered, gilded and pink “spring bracelets” ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Ponte Vecchio. are the result of artisan workmanship Celebration of the last heir of the Medici Made in Tuscany. Like silverware for dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in the table, jewellery too has the aim of Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures 24 JUNE enabling the noble metal to be used in including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine daily life so that its beauty and special Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL characteristics can be appreciated. is all due to her. To mark the occasion, CALCIO STORICO ▼ L’IPPOGRIFO www.brandimarte.com some municipal museums allow access A contest that has taken place in Piazza SHUTTERSTOCK.COM The charm and tradition of a free of charge. Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of unique art that can only be found St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of in the shops and laboratories the city. Highly competitive, it combines PHOTO © of the Oltrarno: “Ponte Vecchio 25 MARCH football, rugby and wrestling and is held as FESTA DI SAN LORENZO seen from the rooftops” uses the the culmination of a tournament between CAPODANNO FIORENTINO etching technique, which enables teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated original limited edition numbered White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa 8 OCTOBER since before the advent of the Gregorian graphic works to be created, from Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni Calendar (1582), with a parade through FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA etching to printing. and Blue from Santa Croce. the central streets of the city in historical At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the www.ippogrifostampedarte.com costumes. ceremony is held of the offering of candles in the crypt. According to the legend it was thanks to the miraculous intercession EASTER of Saint Reparata that the Florentines succeeded in repelling the siege of the SCOPPIO DEL CARRO Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked ▲ SAVINI TARTUFI A popular secular and religious the triumph of Christianity in Florence. “Il Tartufato” is part of a line tradition that dates back to the time of packs designed to give of the Crusades. A procession with (and give yourself ) inviting truffle percussionists and flag-wavers in END OF DECEMBER historical costumes, city officials products as gifts. Included in this and representatives of the clergy, FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI composition are Peschiole with accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic An ancient folkloristic event in which the summer truffle, Tagliolini with truffle, tower from the church of SS. Apostoli “Procession of the Florentine Republic” Cream with Parmigiano Reggiano to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is addresses the civil and religious authorities cheese and truffle, Butter with set alight. BACCO ARTIGIANO to wish them good luck during the festivities. summer truffle and Cream of fig, honey and truffle. www.savinitartufi.it

16 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 17 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical

Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro PHOTO © town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces characteristic medieval architecture. It is the Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the medieval towns and culinary festivals. heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking small town of Settignano. round this small town, the 13th/14th-century The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for TUSCANY BIKING appearance of which is still practically its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, Would you like to discover the area around unchanged, is almost like going back in time. olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, Florence from a different perspective, more

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM San Gimignano is famous above all for its is around half an hour by car from the centre of on a human scale and in contact with medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. one time and today are just fifteen, including between September and November you can Pedalling along the romantic olive groves,

Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day. PHOTO © some in ruins and without their tops but still witness two key events for the economy vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, visible as part of the urban fabric. and culture of the territory: the harvesting taking in the perfumes and colours of the of grapes and olives. Tuscan countryside in ways that would the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move otherwise be impossible. After the effort of Renaissance squares and buildings and Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest Roman amphitheatres. and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, the Crete Senesi. Located in the area south- and refreshment with visits to wine cellars Nature and art The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also both on foot and on the numerous buses east of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local be easily reached from Florence in about departing from the city centre. Over the years of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. specialities. If you are not particularly sporty an hour by train. Loved by tourists from the hill of Fiesole has been the source of These bare, softly undulating hills, with their but would still like to visit the outskirts of If Florence offers tourists f you choose Florence as your base, all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar Florence from this unique perspective, then the good news is that around an hour Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this appearance, are dotted with cypresses and you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that an unrivalled cultural and away by train, bus or car you will find the Cathedral, which stands in a unique privileged observatory, dotted with villas, farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly historical heritage, its UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy monumental context, declared a UNESCO museums, archaeological excavations, churches of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far less tiring. Ask your concierge. surrounding area no less so. countryside, natural thermal springs, World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. medieval towns and abbeys and Once you’ve completed your visit to this Here are some suggestions kilometresI of coastline for bathers. unbelievable square, if you have a little time for trips outside the city that left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno are able to satisfy any need. CITIES OF ART to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing For more details ask right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, your concierge. from the Tuscan regional capital there are with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today architectural wonders that will catapult you houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. the most prestigious universities in the world. About an hour by train from Florence is With a brief trip by coach from Florence you Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval historic centres, surrounded by ancient centres in Italy, which is also included on 16th-century walls, today still practically fully the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s intact and walkable in their entirely. You can nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a renowned for its unique shell shape, for its

tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the architectural integrity, and because twice a SHUTTERSTOCK.COM SHUTTERSTOCK.COM benches. The picturesque historic centre has year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio

remained almost intact, including countless di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental Fiesole, Roman Theatre PHOTO © PHOTO © medieval churches, which have earned Lucca importance for the Sienese, which sees the

18 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 19 SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE CLOTHING & Aspesi W The Guidelines M The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran H E O MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold R . C ACCESSORIES Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, E T R R A V E L E at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the elegant details and natural materials. His current coordinates on the street map (pages 42-43). Angela Caputi Giuggiù collections are still based on the original “no frills”

The boutique offers an extraordinary selection philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their SHOPPING of clothing items for every type of woman. In outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. This directory, grouped by category, is a list of addition, hats, bags and other accessories from Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat establishments recommended by the editors all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. of Where magazine and includes regular and designer Angela Caputi chooses these T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the articles personally to combine with and complete 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, most popular luxury brands are grouped under her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 the separate category “Top Brands”, which elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open be found on page 22. Several unusual shops, Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Brunello Cucinelli stocking items and rarities for collectors or Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4 The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed aficionados in specific product categories, are up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian Anichini listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children the standard shopping sections. Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder where skilled artisan hands create elegant items Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the for newborns, children and youngsters using the generally included in the price of goods. production of high-quality cashmere knitwear best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible and today boasts top-level production with total to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. TAX-FREE SHOPPING look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat and exported from the EU: before finalizing defining itself as “a humanistic company”. 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3 whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge.

DINING Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not

EGON IPSE compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no PHOTOS © dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). Glasses with retro charm € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. A little gem for vintage glasses enthusiasts, but also for lovers of models with contemporary designs created using quality materials such as leather, precious metals, gemstones, horn and wood. By Chiara Zaccarelli SIGHTSEEING Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a ot far from the Fortezza da Basso aesthetics and visual functionality. Each pair, >> www.anticaocchialeria.com separate category. The information provided and the Museum of San Marco, yet created using high-quality hand-finished Via San Gallo, 130/r-134/r on museums and monuments is verified as Il Bisonte, timeless appeal away from the crowds of tourists in materials fully respecting the tradition of T: 055 473055. Off Map meticulously as possible. However, data such as Enter the Il Bisonte boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno to discover a world N telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the historic centre, the Antica Occhialeria products “Made in Italy”, is inspired by the dedicated to style and craftsmanship. Since 1970, the Florentine brand of leather goods the accessibility of sites are all subject to retains its charm as an authentic location fully huge historical collection to which the change, on a seasonal basis and also due to and accessories founded by Wanny Di Filippo has been distinguished by the originality of intact. This historic shop, with its interiors in Di Nardo family and their collaborators are restoration work, museum loans or changes its creations, handcrafted by skilled artisans using high-quality materials such as cowhide, which dark red tones predominate, in contrast lucky enough to have access. The models, of management. Ask your concierge leather and all-natural vegetable-tanned leather. In addition to bearing the Made in Italy with the pale wood furniture and finishes, in fact, maintain a characteristic and ENTERTAINMENT merchandise mark, Il Bisonte’s bags, document holders, suitcases, travel accessories and with its vintage objects and bygone models fascinating retro style, though also standing Several venues offering food are included in small leather goods share the same attention to detail, as regards both their design and of glasses, so entering it is like taking a leap out on account of the extreme particularity this section. These are considered as meeting the various stages involved in the production process. From leather cutting to splitting and back in time. It was 1956, in fact, when Lucio of their design and the use of different, places rather than gourmet addresses and thus hand-sewn details, each stage of the process is carried out following methods handed down explain our decision to list them here rather Enrico Di Nardo, an expert collector and art even unusual materials, such as wood, horn, from generation to generation like a precious artwork to be safeguarded. The use of natural than under “Dining”. lover, began his activity as an optician. More hide, leather and 18kt gold. The Antica materials guarantees the uniqueness of each product, a characteristic that has always been than 60 years later, the Antica Occhialeria is an Occhialeria also has a vast selection of All details are correct at the time of going to dear to Il Bisonte. Using a traditional Tuscan process of vegetable tanning, an Il Bisonte bag press but several details can change: ask your artisan concern that is favoured by numerous authentic vintage glasses and designs only improves with time, embracing the unique qualities impressed on it with each wear. concierge to double-check all information. connoisseurs and lovers of the genre, with and manufactures exclusive made-to- www.ilbisonte.com. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 a production capable of combining measure models.

20 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 21 [ FASHION DESIGNERS ] Top Brands

ALBERTA FERRETTI CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. PHILOSOPHY— Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Cat-eye sunglasses by MAX MARA with Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.albertaferretti.com. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 ultra-light acetate frame. A bold, feminine design, Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. c/o Spazio A. inspired by the Punk allure of the late ‘80s. Map E3 Open daily 10am-7pm. Via CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Porta Rossa, 107/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com T: 055 212995. Map E4 Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am- Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. 2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. 7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 219041. Map E3 Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am- 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. 2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; T: 055 287761. Map F3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm- Sun 11.30am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. 7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm- Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open 7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. 2670157. Map E4 Piazza della Repubblica, 43. the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 287931. Map E4 T: 055 290284. Map F3 hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details. DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. MISSONI—www.misson.com. HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. www.balenciaga.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Map E3 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3 Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 DIOR— www.dior.com. MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. BOGGI MILANO— Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 210856. Map F3 www.boggi.com. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 T: 055 2608931. Map F3 Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am- Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm- Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. 7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. T: 055 216227. Map F3 7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, Map E3 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am- T: 055 219179. Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. 7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, BORSALINO— EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. Map E4 Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. T: 055 218275. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Map E4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 288539. Map E3 Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3 T: 055 264254. Map E3 PRADA—www. prada.com. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Polished calfskin with rounded flap, 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. BRUNELLO CUCINELLI interprets T: 055 285832. Map F3 T: 055 2670086. Map D3 T: 055 267471 Map E3 the backpack in a modern, sophisticated style. BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 T: 055 212305 Map E3 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 FURLA—www.furla.com. BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily T: 055 293811. Map E4 Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4 Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4 T: 055 294909. Map F4

One of the delightful outfits for this season proposed by CHANEL: ecru tweed and multicolour LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Practical and elegant, the FURLA timepiece from the “Giada” line has a 33mm dress on white silk georgette top, pale grey suede and black grosgrain shoes. To complete Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. round silvered metal case with smooth leather strap, available in the colours the look, a metal, strass, gold and crystal glass necklace. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. Sand, Violet, Onyx. The accessory is embellished with the Furla logo inside the dial. T: 055 2398688. Map E4

22 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 23 SHOPPING SHOPPING

the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the FINE ART pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www.cassetti. Antico Setificio Fiorentino and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of 2396028. Map F5 tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master thanks also to its famous warping machine based goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, LEATHER on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the carving and engraving traditions typical of the workshop has been producing some of the most Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open Cuoieria Fiorentina sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of T: 055 294800. Map F4 the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri From IL BISONTE’s spring-summer 2020 this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products Officine Panerai 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. collection, this woman’s crossbody bag are created with extreme care and top-quality natural Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the T: 055 213861. Map B3 “Salina” in cowhide leather (milk/mint colour) materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him evokes a joyful lifestyle. Pitti Mosaici a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working strong point is the personalization of the products, Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and that develops innovative projects with its own artisan first floor is devoted to special sales and another is customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am- OFFICINA PROFUMO-FARMACEUTICA ANTICO SETIFICIO to provide coverings for walls, framed items and Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5 historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share Off Map See page 26. FIORENTINO See this page. of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates Damiani his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. entire made-to-measure residential projects all over Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Gianni Chiarini the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2 Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary Elena Mirò Société Anonyme 055 282127. Map E6 classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy An independent shop of North-European conception values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been inspired by the underground atmospheres of the Torchio (Il) realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products world. www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde with refined materials such as Florentine leather, Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where 055 2654306. Map D3 from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also Map E4 qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district devising new artisan articles with contemporary precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am- Il Bisonte Dodo with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. 7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5 Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or Tiffany & Co. T: 055 2657725. Map F3 and women’s collection that is only sold in-store 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6 objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted Giovanni Raspini pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts In the beating heart of the fashion district, the JEWELLERY & WATCHES dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4 space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3 Angela Caputi Giuggiù workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels Fani Gioielli including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought- a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized Stefano Ricci throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open Mon- out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, combined to create unique objects both in terms of rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Sat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited in short, are the values of the company founded in colour and shape. Her creations have been used as www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4 edition - silverware, objects for the home, hand- 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now accessories by famous television and film producers. 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and crafted white bronze creations, always having a style in its second generation, has become a successful The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a Map C4 Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. PASSION SHOPPING that is midway between minimalism and classicism international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat Vacheron Constantin Boutique as the common denominator. From the design to the high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. AquaFlor 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open Tues- A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated 055 212075. Map E3 this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, represents Italian excellence all over the world, making T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable Massai Orafi façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4 production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44- Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith through the choice of fragrances. A studio run craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint Luisaviaroma 46/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www. the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Annamaria Cammilli by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 has been present with its creations in shop windows powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. and display cases all over the world for over 30 years a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian purchasing experience: instead of displaying the ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets garments, they have been replaced with interactive Map E3 and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm- Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, DEPARTMENT STORES 7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4 of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3 Rinascente Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by Aprosio Marina Rinaldi In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to international customers, are genuinely unique pieces Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique jewellery accessories and products for decorating fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide and design items. For women, proposals of the best it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia range of collections, featuring both contemporary Italian and international brands range from the classic and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart 7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2 basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury www.angelacaputi.com and accessories for a total look that exudes class shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and Cassetti 1926 Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio

24 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 25 SHOPPING

and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuries- Tax Free old handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental environments Refund Guide - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. and services, and is part of the European Union’s Map D2 value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a The Merchant of Venice NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. completed by products for personal care, for the 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: environment and accessories. The essences are • you are a non-EU resident; contained in packaging with designs inspired by the • the goods purchased are intended for personal or glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the family use only and are carried in your luggage; single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon- • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME Thurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 154,94 Euro See page 24. (VAT included); 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice T: 055 216559. Map E3 should include a description of the goods purchased, Valli Tessuti Alta Moda your personal information as well as the details of 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5 A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele your passport or any other equivalent document; the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the Dr. Vranjes beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a third month after the month that you bought them; Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make • several specific customs formalities are made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire complied with; Florence is home to the laboratories and the both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; company founded and managed by the “nose”, the Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. within four months after the purchase was made. perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. T: 055 282485. Map D3

4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition be shown at the customs exit point when leaving to the traditional production of ambient diffusers SHOES EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift Aquazzura BEFORE checking in). boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes. hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm- European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin the original invoice , regularly endorsed by the 7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and must be returned within four months from the date Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 • Open Mon 3.30pm- fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura. when the document was issued. 7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4 Map l3 retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve Salvatore Ferragamo chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Marioluca Giusti Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside Free” sign in its window). A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer design objects for the table and more besides, in a historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo glass and melamine collections are enhanced every boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating year with new models with colour shades ranging accessories and perfume collections. The brand the passenger from having to return the invoice to from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies the major international airports or main border crossings. by important international personalities such as the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces Most major department stores have Tax Free Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of Refund offices. Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic the payment of a small administrative sum which a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa models. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am- is directly deducted from the amount of VAT Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. refunded to the traveller. (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am- T: 055 292123. Map E4 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund 7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3 UGG within a reasonable period of time, he or she First single-brand boutique in Italy of the Californian should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica lifestyle brand specialising in footwear. A brightly lit aforementioned companies. di Santa Maria Novella space with colours and themes taking up the decorative 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe elements of the UGG 2019 campaign, in the heart directly by customs offices. (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica of historic piazza della Repubblica. Inside, the more is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of traditional models stands alonside new footwear. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for www. ugg.com. Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat 10-30am- over four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, 7.30pm; Sun 11.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets 30/r. T: 055 0945430. Map F3

26 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020

7066_VOV_APERTURA_Where_Florence_207x277.indd 1 18/05/20 12:28 [ DAILY TOURS ] Fashion outlets

GA best local food and wines are on offer. ED Open daily 10am-8pm. BEGA BECA • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the Not far from direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana AA EE Florence, in A Bettolle. Tuscany but also • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience in nearby Emilia- AEADA offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round Romagna, don’t FEAA and further discounts during sale periods: ? miss a trip to ACEA A Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Fidenza Village Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, these shopping GEA Castel GuelfoADAC BGA ? The Style Outlets Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour FE destinations The Mall Sanremo and many others. DE A THE APPENNINI ? A GE CCA MOUNTAINBarberino RIDGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of offering discounts ? Designer Outlet A the restaurants and refreshments, a modern year-round. FEE EGA playground, the possibility of recharging your A GGA? The Mall Firenze electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge Valdichiana ACA and, in the event of rain, the possibility of EA ?Outlet Village walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. The Mall Firenze www.valdichianaoutlet.it EGA BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET • WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringECAA customers CCA centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” retail price. from Florence.A Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsA and initiatives E direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. DirectA bus Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® by office side. minivan service from centrally located hotels in Value Retail: a place where hospitality makes the • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. shoppingADEGA experience memorable. The Village is Valdichiana Outlet Village Fidenza Village designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and and footwear) featuring your favourite brands from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino Chloé (June 2018 Opening). • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS unique hospitality at the core of the services Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, The point where quality, style and convenience and with over 120 boutiques of the world’s is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with prices (up to 70% off ), including Missoni, shopping. www.themall.it discounts of between 30% and 70% all year Jil Sander, Sergio Rossi, Marni, Vivienne round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located Westwood and many more. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a 10am-8.30pm. gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets Barberino Designer Outlet railway station. www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

28 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 29 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE TUSCAN CUISINE store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable Benedicta prices, combining traditional dishes based EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for Tuscan food the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan 0750600. Map F1 cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes Latini (Il) every two months depending on the season. Open Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine T:055 2645429. Map D2 tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked Bordino Trattoria with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3 crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are Locale Firenze traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of where by just descending a few steps you can travel Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13th- relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via century Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5 Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with Cammillo dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary Pappa col pomodoro A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) T: 055 9067188. Map H3 menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with Lungarno23 pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this biscuits are made by slicing up a long Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, roll of baked dough while still hot. the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come The dough is made with flour, sugar, rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans Map E5 because here the hamburger is accompanied by normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, fortified local wine called Vin Santo. Cibrèo Ristorante freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. In Florence and in the area near the Market of lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating Map G6 Cibreo is a typical main course of well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no L’Ortone chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie and onion. Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image district, opposite the charming street market, the of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with cooked in a herb broth and most Traditional cuisine in a historic venue 2341100. Map L3 the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. commonly served in a panino soaked www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 in the broth or topped with the local Da Burde 0804. Map L4 Past and present, culinary art and culture meet here. Within its 17th century walls you can taste the typical The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and parsley-based green sauce. cuisine of the territory, accompanied by an interesting selection of wines. By Chiara Zaccarelli the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken Marione Trattoria PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, value for money, the atmosphere has remained that the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by n Florence it may often happen that you traditional, sincere and genuine cuisine. Here salt and pepper. of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini find yourself dining “inside history”. This is you will find the great evergreen Tuscan classics, in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, no less true in the case of the Buca Niccolini such as “Pappa al Pomodoro”, “Ribollita” and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or I fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via restaurant: it came about as a typical Florentine “Pici del Chianti al Cinghiale” (but the selection at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map because there is usually a long queue of people “buca”, that is a tavern located in a building’s of first courses is truly endless), then there is boiled several times - derives from the waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoria- IO Osteria Personale fact that in the old days peasants used to wine cellar. The building in question is none “Trippa alla Fiorentina” and, obviously, “Bistecca marione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3 In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still make a large pot and serve it, heated up, other than the adjacent Teatro Niccolini, a space alla Fiorentina”. And for pizza lovers, there is conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, Opera over a number of days, each time tastier of great historical and architectural interest, the also a selection of pizzas, from the classics to surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few than before. oldest in Florence and among the first “modern” the most appetising variations, also meeting modern tavern that has a preference for the products steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this theatres in Europe, the origins of which date the requirements of the gluten intolerant. of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and simple focaccia baked in a wood oven back to 1650. After years of abandonment, The venue, in fact, possesses a separate area way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring and dressed with olive oil and salt at any today the theatre has returned to full activity. for the preparation of gluten-free pizza. The In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and background of the most important operas, you can baker’s, but of course everyone has their It is not uncommon, in fact, after a show, for wine cellar boasts around 80 Italian labels, with seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp spectators and artists to stop to dine here. particular attention devoted to Tuscan wines. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4 traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar and salty, or made with ancient grains. In a central position, a few yards from the deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; La Ménagère (C.Z.) closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Duomo, Buca Niccolini is a pleasant, family- >> www.bucaniccolini.it A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2 oriented venue, all organised around a Via Ricasoli 5/7r. T: 055 292124. Map G2 combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

30 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 31 DINING DINING

Osteria Badalì cuisine (although you can still request a private room Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the The “fiorentina” Michelin-starred restaurants of the past, all about long cooking times and ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: found on the second-hand book stalls and based 055 214179. Map D3 above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and Buca Poldo as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6 the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, Touch Bistrò Toscano dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for of the hotelier institute have made their dream a other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that bread using flour from ancient grains. of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Ora d ’Aria the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, Map F4 Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, Buca San Giovanni www.oradariaristorante.com but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3 We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s Tuscani 3 (I) Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, Buca Mario throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and venue and countless notables from Florence and Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient the most iconic dishes in Florence recipes but tending towards a more creative in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as cuisine. But be careful: to recognize contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al the original and tell it apart from the Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of hundreds of impostors, there are cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as a few tips you need to know. “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or Bottega del Buon Caffè portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels 285356. Map F4 Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its and a highly select menu of beers. with unwritten rules that the visitor Zeb Fiaschetteria Nuvoli prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants needs to know to avoid falling foul Il Palagio Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory of the restaurant owner, paying over that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 the odds and to make sure they get www.ilpalagioristorante.it Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it the real thing. Enoteca Pinchiorri vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken enotecapinchiorri.it fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks from a specific cut of a young Chianina identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast How do you manage to be honoured with three del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of cow, a part of the loin near the backbone with a special focus on small local producers. €€. porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo which has a T-bone in the middle. www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps It should be grilled at a very high 2342864. Map H6 T: 055 239 6616. Map F2 the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that temperature, so that a fine crust forms winning combination of prime quality raw materials, to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany CANTINE the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the include gems such as amberjack served in three ways PIZZA dish depends on the cooking: the meat territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds Antica Mescita San Niccolò Pizza Man must be brown on the outside but red, to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which with pigeon, butter and thyme. of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan includes highly prized labels, along with others that are labels, 50 of which also served by the glass. soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does gluten- little known but equally interesting. Then we can add Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura cooked through. This is the first vital rule: Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post free and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18th- Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 a fiorentina must be eaten rare. for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special century Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura Borgo San Jacopo is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms are a delight for the senses. Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative Ribollita calssica..e croccante also reflects the season and the local territory, with €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, T: 055 2480200. Map H4 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Ora d’Aria bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just available. And here is another sore point. San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. Pizzaiuolo (Il) a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina www.borgosanjacopo.com The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6 Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the by weight. An average price to be sure of postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed Buca Lapi pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality getting the real thing is around 50 euros San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. a kilo. case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan WITH. The traditional accompaniment is tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts usually cannellini beans, washed down Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all around the tones of green and pistachio and can history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via with a glass of Chianti. washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 welcome up t o 35 diners indoors. internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potato- lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan WHERE. Here are four restaurants where based one is unmissable) or à la carte. La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita Santarpia you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. La Bottega del Buon Caffè www.laleggendadeifrati.it del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3 turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising SHUTTERSTOCK.COM com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati Buca Mario Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft Zero food miles products gathered from the organic helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with beers or wines from small producers. €. ristorante-perseus-firenze). PHOTO © famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. (C.Z.) Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine T: 055245829. Map L3

32 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 33 DINING DINING Top hotel restaurants

Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort wVia di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, Il Conventino a Marignolle Il Palagio vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of well as the favourites of Italian cuisine. fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle Il Palagio and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are Bristol Winter Garden c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan www.ilpalagioristorante.it dishes. Tradition, innovation and creativity: Flora & Fauno A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside Where® highlights some culinary c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant Se•Sto on Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence destinations to whet your appetite T: 055 670971 tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 in several top hotels in Florence. www.hotelvillesullarno.com ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine www.westinflorence.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three Local flavours and seasonal products for a the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an Borgo San Jacopo spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. The unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor c/o Hotel Lungarno the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The Trattoria al fresco. a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by www.borgosanjacopo.com protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, sweeping picture windows that make the most of On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, Irene the unique position and breathtaking view over Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant at other times sticking to tradition. c/o Hotel Savoy La Loggia the city. is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine Golden Restaurant www.roccofortehotels.com Villa La Vedetta quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Claudio c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle Le Bistrot Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Villa La Vedetta Mengoni, accompanied by collector wines from a Piazza Strozzi 11/r. building with an extraordinary collection of art works, c/o Villa Cora c/o Bernini Palace Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 cantina of 900 labels. T: 055 287860 the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 www.villalavedettahotel.com www.goldentowerhotel.it Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni www.villacora.it hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Bristol Winter Garden The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking c/o Helvetia & Bristol Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic in the historic centre, housed under a 16th-century view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the seasonal products. residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on www.starhotelscollezione.com ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and The restaurant is located inside the evocative and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though Winter Garden, covered by the historic Liberty- and fittings. c/o JK Place Firenze Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes regional specialities, the menu also offers international there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options style glass ceiling. A versatile ambience with Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part dishes. too. classic motifs of 18th-century chinoiserie. Among Il Giardino Restaurant www.jkplace.com locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant the proposals of Chef Pasquale D’Ambrosio the c/o Sina Villa Medici Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its Ristorante La Loggia Winter Garden by Caino inimitable roasted rock octopus and the most Via Il Prato, 42. local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves c/o Belmond Villa San Michele c/o The Saint Regis Florence traditional Chianina tenderloin, a true tribute to T: 055 2771891 farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining poolside to the winter garden. Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 the Tuscan land. The Winter Garden opens into the www.sinahotels.com room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the www.belmond.com www.wintergardenbycaino.com Tinello, the beating heart of the hotel, designed by A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance of terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. Relais Le Jardin This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Riccardo Barthel, that hosts a variety of gastronomic the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century c/o Hotel Regency visit even just for its magnificent position looking over Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred appointments in different moments of the day. palace, recently renovated and restored to its former La Cucina del Salviatino Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out splendour. The restaurant, with its winter garden c/o Il Salviatino www.regency-hotel.com in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini Capriccio Restaurant which can be opened during the summer months, Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge Alessandro Cozzolino. and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid has been studied in every detail with an exclusive www.salviatino.com mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 design. Seasonality and territoriality are the basis for Il Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the www.montebellosplendid.com Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by chef Luigi Incrocci. a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, out The menu presents interesting creations of the best links to the local territory and the seasons, with a dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with class Italian and international tradition, revisited in a modern prevalence of meat courses, though there is no such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality products mood. The philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, and absolute freshness for a couple’s candlelight is to amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their dinner or a special event. has 60 wine labels. food miles. highest quality. famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection original take on tiramisù.

34 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 35 MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Piazzale Michelangelo ATTRACTIONS Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4 Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its & MONUMENTS Ponte Vecchio views seen all over the world in million of postcards There has been a bridge at this point of the River Duomo and Cupola and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some between floods and reconstructions, the official date official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the tree- 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most lined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, important artists of the period participated in its monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe who used the river to dispose of their waste in a creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous del Poggi”. Map I7 multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it 19 th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths San Miniato al Monte construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. history, on prominent display on the bridge is a building situated at one of the highest panoramic it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith points in Florence. The most spectacular access is of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge gained via the monumental flight of steps (which Battistero between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli is not advisable, however, for those with problems Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via walking). The outside of the church is decorated Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the de’ Guicciardini. Map F5 with green and white marble, typical of Florentine building that completes the considerably striking Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, decorates the central part of the façade. www. th The symbol of wealth and power, the building was but its first official dating is at least in the 12 century. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg- It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a T: 055 234 2731. Off Map dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy The outside is decorated with white marble from family. The original architecture dates back to the Mercato Centrale Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque owner. The building is located on the left bank of the entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and most important examples of Italian-style gardens inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in the world and are considered a genuine open-air floor of the historic covered market there has been in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, museum. Currently they are the site of four different a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the leisure activities and street food options, and this www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery has now become a point of reference for informal Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2 of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and but good quality cuisine for both Florentines Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Campanile di Giotto www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation 294883. Map E6 Map F1 TOMASZ KORYL / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM TOMASZ KORYL of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del

PHOTO © Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic square- based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. Florence at your feet it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3 Piazzale Michelangelo, an obligatory destination for tourists visiting the city, but also much loved by Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of Florentines, is the most famous place to observe the city’s panorama. By Chiara Zaccarelli civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman iazzale Michelangelo is one of the most on the occasion of the election of Florence Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over charming belvederes in Florence, an as the capital of Italy. In the design by the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the unmissable terrace on the city; “a architect Giuseppe Poggi it was to become P Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and not-to-be-missed” for visitors, but also very a monument to Michelangelo (see photo) Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent popular among Florentines. From there your and the loggia in Neoclassical style was to act in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a gaze can take in Santa Croce, the Lungarnos, as a museum to gather together all the works series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties one of the most important sculptural cycles in the Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo with its dome, by the great artist. In reality this idea was very world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno Giotto’s Bell Tower, Palazzo Vecchio and, soon rejected and in 1876 the loggia was David: the one on display in its original position is a district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of beyond, the hills surrounding Florence. turned into a restaurant and a panoramic copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the Standing out in the piazza, dedicated to coffee bar, which are still in operation. dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4 Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious Michelangelo, are bronze reproductions For a guaranteed wow effect, or if you are Palazzo Vecchio stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; of his famous works: the David and the four feeling in a romantic mood, go there at Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest allegories from the Medici Chapels of San sunset. You can reach it by bus or on foot, of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one Lorenzo, the originals of which are conserved walking along the Lungarno, or from Piazza important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its in the city. Poggi, in the district of San Niccolò, climbing imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. The construction of the square dates back to up the charming Rampe del Poggi, a series of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6

1869, as part of the urban planning renewal flights of steps, grottos and fountains. PHOTO © make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

36 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 37 MUSEUMS & MUSEUMS & SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS ATTRACTIONS | SIGHTSEEING

Santa Croce precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare relationship between fashion and art. The museum Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo FIRENZECARD www.firenzecard.it Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. headquarters for his company and his workshop – radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3 art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. Museo Giardini di Boboli masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal Map H1 com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous experienced that profound artistic agitation that has 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4 Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. An elegant collection of works made of semi- responsible for designing their layout, creating the Museo Stefano Bardini The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres precious stones and multi-coloured marble and model of the Italian-style garden that was to become A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www. scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, an example for many European courts. Populated antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with private collection to Florence, where it was displayed 2466105. Map H4 samples. The works are displayed in chronological grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto - in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his Santa Maria Novella order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1 the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and back to the end of the 13th century but work on it At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: Museo di Palazzo Vecchio continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church the Firenzecard circuit price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. 2342427.Map G6 city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria Map E6 Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over Orsanmichele art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free. time it has undergone numerous enlargement and Museo Nazionale del Bargello A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn. transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes This imposing building, built between the 13th and religious functions are combined. Built as a it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: are rooms and private environments sumptuously and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated 055 219257. Map D2-E2 Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, Forte di Belvedere for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2 At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici decorated by some of the most famous artists of the the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. Santo Spirito commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Cappella Brancacci fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; important collection of Renaissance sculptures, famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the point of reference of the Augustinian order. The Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved church has given its name to the entire surrounding the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7 Map G4 daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria Museo di Santa Maria Novella jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left Galleria degli Uffizi Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4 del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental Museo Salvatore Ferragamo basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book floors of the large building erected between 1560 and entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works This is a museum devoted to the history of the 210030. Map D5 (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri the most famous museums in the world on account such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, 2388606. Map F4 San Lorenzo €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every Santa Maria del Fiore Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. and paintings. The collections of paintings from the by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi year it organises exhibitions that investigate the The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224- 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by 558-2382195. Map C5 of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important combination of art, faith and history located in the century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in Cappelle Medicee collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open Tues- centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del of the last major reconstruction work that took place in museum, but their history is closely associated with Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, 055 23885.Map F5 Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a designed and conceived as regards its sculptural the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single which unfortunately was never executed. The interior a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, with prior booking necessary for the Dome. by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2 Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed Villa Bardini and Gardens Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket in the adjacent premises are works coming from the The most beautiful view of Florence earned it price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and MUSEUMS & the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza the convents themselves, which were abolished in the place rich in history, art and culture, has become EXHIBITION SITES Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2 Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary

Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical STOCKPHOTOVIDEO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope PHOTO © (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being centre that hosts international level exhibitions, galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelin- ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2 of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition MUSEO DEL BARGELLO starred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati ascending the monumental staircase designed by devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum Museo degli Innocenti The National Museum of the Bargello is located inside the Palazzo of the same name from (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli the 13th century, the oldest public building in Florence. Its collection of Renaissance statues of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, where concerts, performances, contemporary art Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 is considered among the most significant at world level: it in fact includes masterpieces by garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Cellini, Giambologna, Ammannati and other important dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. museum itinerary combines the documentary and sculptors, in addition to a large applied arts collection. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 - 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3 historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G

38 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 39 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2. T: 055 49771. Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650 Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. www.italotreno.it.

PHOTO © Airports of Florence (which is approximately the part AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA Getting around Florence located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) - ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic to the North-West of Florence, lies between Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer scooters are allowed to enter. The museum city Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique • Connections to the airport and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am- Tourist Information VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from 12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO - concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it. S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every (int. 5). T: 055 334802. www.firenzeturismo.it 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of only allowed into the centre to load and unload Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s Can be used on buses, trams or trains. purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information alleyways and sidestreets, derives from your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). and sales point for Firenzecard. its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period concierge, also so you can receive indications of Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. F (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the where the car parks are located in the centre). To that is gradually disappearing, but some traces one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket: €10. brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces find your way around the city, it is a good idea of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, ticket from 10pm to 3am). A further step in the digital Firenzecard. remain. With less than four hundred thousand to keep well in mind that Florence is developed were divided between “black”, which denoted he NEW AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) transformation of Florence’s public transport: 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: inhabitants and covering an area of little more along the two banks of the River Arno. All the residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red - (80 km from the centre of Florence). today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and than a hundred square kilometres, Florence roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Call centre T: 050 849300. and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 is practically impossible to tour by car, and in are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. www.pisa-airport.com debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: the highest tourist density on the entire planet: Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and wherever you wish to visit, book in advance €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with events, opening times of museums, how to you can also count on quite an efficient public the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on (or have them book for you at your hotel). travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. S.M. Novella Station has been activated on move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm transport network (which, however, is severely the other side of the river, to the south, is called You should also bear in mind that the serious 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu February 2019. Electric buses move around the in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: historic centre and also reach the pedestrian Via email ([email protected]) you can limited during the nighttime hours, so take care “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route ask for information in any language, including after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the outside the historic centre, but today it contains so if you are an early bird then that could give you travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. C1 is convenient for visiting the most important Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic strategic points, whereas private cars are usually important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the a significant advantage. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it museums in Florence.The entire historic centre (answers within 24 hours).

40 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 41 V A SI E S T E S E

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VIA L. TRAVERSI VIA NICOLA TAGLIAFERRIV. CADUTI DI CEFALONIA VIA FAENTINA VIA PALA NOVOLI VIA ENRICO FORLANINI VIA AND VIA DELL'ARCOVATA V. RASTRELLI PIAZZA V AI V S. Antonio V N V I A M A F F E I PIAZZA DELLE AC I S R OC E L A I V da Padova al Romito PIETRO . F. COLA REA CO Parrocchiale S. Marco Vecchio MEDAGLIE VIA SANDRO PERTINI LEOPOLDO TI S D'ORO RSALI T O R OI E M A N U E L EI TIBB V. VANNUCCI Centro Commerciale San Donato VIA PIERO CIRONI ERT V. F. G AI N N I V I A . G . F A B B R O N I VIA GIOVAN FILIPPO MARITI V. BUFFALMACCO V. PAGANINI Santa Maria del Suragio

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V I A L U I G I G O R D I G I A N I V. G. PAGNINI V. DEL ROMITINO VIA ANTONIO STOPPANI NA An teatro delle Cascine VIA DELLA VILLA DEMID V IA L E F R A N C E S C O R E D I PIAZZA LUDOVICO ANTONIO VIALE GIOVANNI LAMI V VIALE GIORGIO WASHINGTON Chiesa MURATORI I A V I T T O R I O E M A N U E L E I I Preziosissimo ANTI VIA LUNGO VIA L'AFFRICO Sangue IA SAN DOMENICO MUGNONE U G I A V I VIA GIUSEPPE TARTINI Stazione Firenze Statuto Giardino V I A F A E N T I PIAZZA V V. G. dell'Orticoltura VIALE FRANCESCO REDI VIA FRANCESCO BONAINI FEB OXR A I A V I Villa il TOMMASO PIAZZA Ventaglio VIADOTTO DEL PONTE ALL'INDIANO C ALVA EDISON V. I. NIEVO VIALE DEI CADORNA . ABBA VIA BOLOGNESE DELLE CURE C O I L Chiesa della UIDO CAVALC Madonna della Tosse G VIA FAENTINA V I A L E A L E S S A N D R O V O LTA V I A L AT I N I VIA DELAL PIAZZUOLA RFA NA C SEPC IVOR I PIAZZA VIA FRA' JACOPO PASSAVANTI VIA V IA C L A U D IO M O N T E V E R D I VNES AIRN EI N I V VIA LUIGI BOCCHERINI D EASLO TATV I U TO D I GIACOMO PIAZZA A L I VIA DELLE CINQUE GIORNATE N I A PUCCINI VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI VIALE MAFALDA DI SAVOIA N DELLA V IA L E D E I M IL L E A L V IA D E L L ’IS O L O T T O XAMV XI A G GO I V E VITTORIA VIA DELVIA PONTE ALL'ASSE O I DAV I ER LO M TO I G A V IA M A R A G L IA N O V. TOSCANELLI VIA DELLE FORBICI U VIA A. GARBASSO G VIA ANTON FRANCESCO DONI PIAZZA VIA DELLA CERNAIA A VIA FRANCESCO VERACINI I U VIA FILIPPO PACINI SE V. A. MEUCCI V GALILEO VIA ANTONIO COCCHI S V IA G IU S E P P E G A L L IA N O T MUGNONE FERRARIS VIA DEI CAIROLI O VIA DELLE ISOLE Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale Istituto Comprensivo Statale R I V V I A D E L G ONNA TOS VIA LEONARDO FIBONACCI H Sacro Cuore VIALE ALESSANDROV. VOLTAG. B. AMICI I I VIA ENRICO PETRELLA V AI L U C A G OI R D A N O A VIA DELLE CASCINE V. G. TARGIONI TOZZETTI al Romito VIA FRANCESCO PUCCINOTTI LARGO C .A V I V. MAD PONTE ROSSO

V AI D E L P O N T E A L L E M O S S E V. A. NICOLODI PIETRO D Golf Club Parco Di Firenze V I A G I U S E P P E S A V E R I O M E R C A D A N T E VIA XX SETTEMBRE V AI P EI T R O T O S E L L I V I A C O S S E R I A CAPEI E

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STA PIAZZA Chiesa di Sant'Agata V. VOLTURNOV Chiesa San Jacopino AV I L EG A I C O M O M A T T E O T T I GIORGIO VIA DEI CAIROLI I A L E VIA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIALE SPARTACO LAVAGNINI PIAZZA VASARI VIA SAN GALLO M I SAVONAROLA V I A D E L L ' A R G I N G R O S S O ACIO A VIA G. PAISIELLO O N VIA POGGI VIA FRA' DOMENICO BUONVICINI IL VIADELLE GHIACCIAIE Fortezza da Basso V F Giardino VIA PIETRO MARONCELLI VIA G. DOLFI V AI A N D R E A D E L C A S TA G N O A DI E CL A M P O D A ' R R G I O O P V IA D E L L E P O R T E N U O V E V I Campo Di R A A S. CATERINA D'ALESSANDRIA Marte V I A C A V O U R E VI V IA G U S T A V O M O D E N A Chiesa VIAPIO FEDI PIAZZA G VIA DELLE RUOTE PDO EAMLN LEVTI O S E U Nostra Signora D Santi Fiorentini ALESSANDRO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI I D del Sacro Cuore Stadio O Ippodromo del Visarno BONSANTI Comunale VIA FONTEBUONI O VIA ROSOLIN Franchi MONTIGNANO F M V IA V E N E Z IA Chiesa dei Sette Santi V. C. A O VIA BARTOLOMMEI Giardino VIA MASSA RIDOLFI Palazzo Pandolfini VIA ALFONSO LA MARMORA V. G. BENIVIENI VIALE U. OJETTI VIA GIOVANNI MICHELUCCI N VIALE FILIPPO STROZZI N V. L. BAUSI PIAZZALE A VIA DELLA FORTEZZA VIA DEI SETTE SANTI BAMBINE E BAMBINI EGLI ARTISTI T VIA GIUSEPPE SIRTORI C PIAZZA Cimitero I O DI BESLAN V AI M A S A C C OI INDIPENDENZA Chiesa di VIA PIER ANTONIO MICHELI della Misericordia Passerella dell'Isolotto S. Giovanni VIA D VIA LUNGO L'AFFRICO V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N dei Cavalieri VIA MASSA Giardino VL. T. MAMIANI V AI M A N N E L L I V I A C A V O U R di San Clemente CAMPO VIALE BELFIORE V IA X X V IA P R IL E VIA SAN GALLO VIA CITTADELLA VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI V AI V AI L E P A S Q U A L E P A O L I A D N O F L A V A I V Giardino DI MARTE VIALE ELEONORA DUSE VIA AMEDEO MODIGLIANI LG. PORTA di Valfonda VIA DEL PRATELLO Teatro dell’Opera LEOPOLDA P EI R C A P P O N I A Z N E A F A I V V IA G U E L F A Giardino V. MONTANELLI dei Semplici VIA IACOPO DA DIACCETO Convento VIA GIAMBOLOGNA VIA PIO FEDI di San Marco VIAL E GIOVANN I VERGA Firenze Fiera San Giuliano RATA VIA G.LA PIRA Parco delle Cascine VIA DEL FOSSO VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI VIA GINO CAPPONI V I A A N T O N I O C A N O V A PIAZZALE DI VL. MAGNOLIE Stazione Leopolda REPA PORTA AL LO VIA SAN GIOVAN GUALBERTO V IA D E I L IG U S T R I L U N G A R N O D E I P IO P P I L LARGO V IA T O R C IC O D A PRATO Porta al Prato V. B. CENNINI San Barnaba PIAZZA Giardino Della Gherardesca ACHILLE PIAZZA SAN MARCO V AI D E DI E L L A R O B B AI Stazione Firenze Campo di Marte VIA DELLE ORTENSIE VIA SANTA SAN GA VIA GIUSEPPE LA FARINA GENNARELLI VIA DOMENICO MARIA MANNI PIAZZA VIA DELL'ARCOLAIO SAN BARTOLOMEO VIA V AI M A S A C C OI Chiesa Cattolica Parrocchiale A B C D ADUA E F G H EM U I F A I V I L B.V.M. Madre Delle Grazie V IA L E D E I B A M B IN I AL GIGNORO V IA G U E L F A V IA D E L L E M IM O S E Giardino di Cenacolo di Foligno PIAZZALE VIA IACOPO NARDI A R N O Palazzo Corsini sul Prato Chiesa Opera di San Jacopo di Ripoli La SS. Annunziata DONATELLO VIALE MANFREDO FANTI VIA DEI FALCUCCI Amerigo Vespucci di Firenze VL. E. CIALDINI Firenze Fortezza 11 Mugello Fiesole Cimitero VIA FRATELLI ROSSELLI O T A R P A I V Airport (4km) V IA L E A B R A M O L IN C O L N Chiesa Casa di Riposo da Basso Piazza 30km 8km degli Inglesi episcopale americana Galleria dell’Accademia PIAZZA BORGO PINTI della Beata ONI Mercato PIAZZA DEL San Marco DELLA V I A G I U S E P P E G I U S T I VIA RAFFAELLO SERNESI PIAZZA di St. James VIA LUIGI ALAMANNI MERCATO V IA D E G L IA L F A N I V AI L E A N T O N OI G R A M S C I V IA D E L L AElisabetta S C A L A Vendramini VIA NAZIONALEANN Centrale SANTISSIMA Museo Archeologico V AI L E M A L T A V.Z CENTRALE V.G.D.MONTORSOLI VITTORIO VENETO 1 Stazione Ferroviaria VIA DE’GINORI ANNUNZIA 1 VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO V IA M O N T E B E L L O Firenze Ponte delle Cascine VIA MAGENTA V IA A N T O N IO C A N O V A V IA T O R C IC O D A Santa Maria Novella VIA DELL’ARIENTO Nelson Mandela Forum E P E M A Z Z I N I Florence Map LI ORI

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VIA DEL R. FIORENTINO R. DEL VIA di San Lorenzo SAN E VIA DEL PIGNONCINO DEL VIA ITALIANA BRUNELLESCHI VIA DEL MELARANCIO V I A D E ’ G O R I T VIAC MAGENTA O R S O TI A L AI Basilica di LORENZO S VIA GIORDANI L U N G A R N O A M E R I G O V E S P U C C I Santa Maria Novella VIA D A VIALE GABRIELE D’ANNUNZIO C PIAZZA V I A D E ’ V A N N I V I A P I G N O N E Ponte della Vittoria E L VIA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI E’ Teatro D Università VIALE EDMONDO DE AMICIS V I A VIA DEL SANSOVINO Santa 13 C MASSIMO D'AZEGLIO VIA LIBERO ANDREOTTI VIA PANZANI ONTI degli Studi di Firenze PIAZZA V. S. LUCIALucia O Pucci VIA GIOVANNI BOVIO Z VIA PALESTRO sul Prato VIA DELL'ALBERO VIA MARSALA P. BATONI VI A DELL’ALLORO OLI Chiesa 2 Polimoda Santa Maria 2 V IA D E L L A S C A L A VIA DEL GIGLIO Parrocchiale VIA ZANETTI AN LOREN CAS Maddalena dei Pazzi VIA ANTONIO SCIALOJA V. DEL PALAZZO DEI DIAVOLI PIAZZA Teatro Sacro Cuore VIA FERDINANDO MARTINI V I A G I O V A N N I A N T O N I O S O G L I A N I VIA MONTEBELLO PIAZZA VIA DE’Niccolini MARTELLI V I A R I TADDEO GADDI B O R G O O G N IS S A N T I SANTA ORGO S VIA DEL MEZZETTA V I A PA L A Z Z U O L O B VIA DEI SERVI IA DE’ CONTI VIA CIRO MENOTTI MARIA V VIA DEI BANCHI VIA ANNIBAL CARO V I A D E L L A F O N D E R I A 1 Ospedale Santa Maria Nuova VIA M.FINIGUERRA VIA DEI CERRETANI VIA BRONZINO NOVELLA 2 LO FARINI VIALE GIUSEPPE MAZZINI V. DELLA RONDINELLA VIA FRANCESCO TALENTI Teatro I C S M A R G O I N O T N A E L A I V V AI M A N N E L L I LI Santa Maria della V. G . B . N I C C O L I N I VIAL. MAITANI INEL Battistero D Maggiore Cattedrale di Museo dell'Opera V. DELLA CASA Pergola VIA GIAMBATTISTA VICO VIA DELLE VIABELLE DONNE di San Giovanni Santa Maria del Fiore di Santa Maria del Fiore Oratorio Di V. DEL TREBBIO 3 NA VIA PIETRO FRANCAVILLA Santommaso Tempio Maggiore VIA BRONZINO DEI RON LUIGI CAR Loggia di San Paolo Palazzo V. D'aquino VIA DEI PILASTRI A Israelitico PIAZZA VI Sinagoga VIA CAPO DI MONDO V. DEL GIGNORO Antinori VIA AGLI V. DEI PECORI VIA DI MELEGNANO PINTI GUGLIELMO VIALE ETRURIA V. B. FRANCESCHINI Ognissanti V. CAMPANELLA VIA DEL MEZZETTA VIALE ETRURIA L U N G A R N O S A N TA R O S A Chiesa FIESOLA V. FRA' SARPI Chiesa dei V. DELL'ORIUOLO VIA SANT'EGIDIO A OBERDAN di San VIA DEL SOLE I VIA PIETRO COLLETTA Santi Michele LLESCHI VIA G. LEOPARDI PIAZZA V VIA TITO SPERI Paolino V.CANONICA VIA

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VIA BORGO SAN FREDIANO LUNGARNO CORSINI VIA PELLICCERIA D del Bargello CAVALCAVIA DELL'AFFRICO alla Carraia O R O N G I G L E D A I V V. V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O VIA FERDINANDO PAOLIERI V I A V I N C E N Z O G I O B E R T I Palazzo Bartolini VIA PORTA ROSSA VIA DELLA CONDOTTA VIA VIGNA VECCHIA VI A VINCENZO CHIARUGI V I A P I S A N A Basilica di Salimbeni Palazzo VIA DEL PARIONCINO Teatro Verdi AM V. D. VENEZIANO Santa Trinita Davanzati Loggia del VIA GIUSEPPE VERDI Chiesa PIAZZA L O V I PIAZZA O IT VIA DI MONTE OLIVETO Chiesa L VC.PANICO V. DEL LA BURELLA VIA ANDREA DEL SARTO VIA EL VIA PIERO DI COSIMO VIA Porcellino V. CALIMARUZZA DI SAN FIRENZE VIA DEI PEPI Cattolica Parrocchiale G R LI S. Frediano SO E D PIAZZA I D EL Santi V IA D E L F IC O V I A G H I B E L L I N A LEON PIAZZA AS PIAZZA VIA DELL'ANGUILLARA S. Maria Degli Angeli SO LE T Chiesa in Cestello Museo IC I PARTE BAR Simone e Giuda VIA BENOZZO GOZZOLI L VIA TORTA R ERME DELLA SIGNORIA Palazzo 4 DE’ NERLI M GUELFA O 4 BATTISTA Parrocchiale Santissimo Salvatore O Complesso O V I A D E L L ' A G N O L O V I A D E L L A C H I M E R A RDA VIA VACCHERECCIA SS Gondi Croci sso a Monticelli BORGO SAN FREDIANO Ferragamo di San Firenze I VIA DE VIA GIACOMO ZANELLA IA FIO Chiesa V.D.B A 4 PACCI 4 D ALBERTI VIA PISANA D. CH LL'ANGUILL VIA DEIV. SANTI APOSTOLI R della VIA S. GIOVANNI LUNGARNO GUCCIARDINI V I A A R E T I N A BORGO DEI GRECI O Archivio di Stato Sacra Famiglia C VIA CA PIAZZA Palazzo Vecchio V. GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO VIA BACCIO DA MONTELUPO NTA MARI C A Santi Apostoli A DEI SALTERELLI Loggia RA LUNGARNO DEGLI ACCIAIOLI A CH S BELLOSGUARDO IASSO D VIA DELLA NINNA T An teatro e Biagio dei Lanzi VIA CORNO PIAZZA DI V I A L E A L E A R D O A L E A R D I N V I A G H I B E L L I N A V I A G I O T T O VIA DEL LEONE

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Museo delle Porcellane Camping O L ALD M.CECC M V. R. DA MANDELLO 42 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 80km Palazzo Pitti www.wheretraveler.com 43 I V. M A R S U P P I N I PIAZZA ONT LARGO A R E Z Z I V S A I V ▼ A I F L E D A L I F A I V A K A I V

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4 4 6 11 4 4 2

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6 6 DOWNLOAD THE "MILANO & LEONARDO" AUDIO GUIDE FOR FREE by Proedi Media 10 10

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1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 5 Via Torino 7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 9 Corso XXII Marzo 11 Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi & Corso Como (H3) | Porta Venezia (G3-H3) LEONARDO SHOPPING AREAS TOP IN TOWN ENTERTAINMENT LEGENDA 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 4 Via Dante 6 Brera-Solferino 8 Corso Buenos Aires 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese 12 CityLife Shopping District See page 8 AREAS Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3) | Porta Romana DISTRICT 44 WHERE FLORENCE I MAY 2020 www.wheretraveler.com 45 A B C D E F G H I L Museo Di Torcello

TORCELLO Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta

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T E T P R I S D AL A O L D F R . A I C C O DE LA MADONNA L I R E A San Stae C IS L O E L I D SA L L N E E T E P T N A L T O U T RO Ca' Pesaro S T S L A D NT N L N Q N C T CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO E DAMEN O A A L A E Ponte R S A C CAMPO R I E ’ L A VALMARANA T M IO N E Santa Sofia S DEL PESTRIN A AME T D E R Galleria Internazionale D N C L D R C D A A R D A AL E Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia ’ TA À N I D E F E O S CORTE LE N degli Scalzi L E A . O S A SAN SIMON AR ’IS F O N R D F OL V C V T V B A R O D BATAGIA ARI San Lazzaro d'Arte Moderna I A L V E ER S A AN O E A T C C O ’ A L CORTE L N DE L GRANDO ST S T O i I DE Ca’ D’Oro L N L D L IZ A I t OVE N A CAMPIELLO CORTESE A dei Mendicanti Ferrovia CA A ’ A D A C E L O O N D A M L I C IA N ALLE C G . L D A C C C UCIA AZZA F A A STELLA I A L D L R L C O R B an L R E A . 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E N E ST A L T P I T A O E C LA CA D NI D S L I ’ LL A L DELLA I A N E N m E A B M L E A T O ’ O A C A Ponte L I C E A D O F BELLA VIENNA E T T S O V C G A T E PAOLO S N o E O E E T E D O E N T A O T T S M L Teatro Malibran L E TA SA D S S A CAMPO I E c R S L L E A N A T ’ I L I C L A A A A T NU M O L C C A R A LE H A T N D L O A C E M RT S O N della Costituzione E SAN GIACOMETO S I E S C C O L N E C A N I E N F S N A C U R I E L ER . L E A C BE H O E S V D A R DE O E O NA E R N Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto L I T S . M M e M V L E D C U O CAMPO A L O A A I G O E CA L A E E A N LU I ’AR O G CORTE SECONDA CC L D I . T M AL S A C D L S M F S L G R LE E L R D L A T R P L G P O V . CA L N L L S E E CA .G D R A E E I D E N O A DEL MILION SANT’AGOSTINO CARAMPANE E A E CA AMENTA A O S R I DE I R E S C O L N E A T D L AN C L L C F O D San Giacomo S L L A FON E T D A I R N T O CA I L CORTE DEL O C R E F E T N O P E S A E L E S E E I le RÀ B M E ON G R BA L E I D L E D R R V B D R A E V AR L E O E I D L IA A RE TEATRO D L a T C E I S E E L . L H N E T CAMPO A E O L A A D I ZA L L di Rialto C O E n E I R D CA C L C L C L C AL AL C L L C R I A E E A C L C L SANTA a O A . 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I N I dei Carmini S IS S. Zaccaria (Danieli) d ME E E P A N C S C C N L S A RAMO I D O O E L A Z S A TANA AL D E A O A S San Barnaba e San Moisè N L FONDAMENTA F O N Z R D CHIA CAMPO E N A M L T I O E N T ZE T A C I N San Maurizio R E D I O D E R O C M O E L L . A A TA L DEI FORNI N R E R Palazzo Loredan R A F A S L HI C C NG G H L LO A LLO A SAN MOISE’ O IE A C A P C CORTE L M T C CA A C N R FO E C C . M E N A L A A L A ZO O D A L R I L ’ N A L L PO N O M V N L O MICHIEL II L O E O E SER F L X L C X C V L D A O R D R GA L IA L

R R E E A OL A E A A L H L C C C I I E C R E E S C E E A L L I L L L L A T I Ri Arsenale D A A CAMPO C AR L E L M B A F N N L L A F L G O CA E A Santa Maria L D O R E E N E D R Z E N E L R L E A E E V A O A T I A I I S N P o R E B L Z D Museo Storico Navale di Venezia S R S L N R TA A P L N T P I I S O AT A SAN MAURIZIO L I A E E A M C E Z DO ’ A O S C AN N C R L O N CA I del Giglio E R I I R L San I San Francesco D R N HIN E M C U R C E E A S G A I IOA L AL N G L D A SA C N C N CAMPO T D. T CA O ON A U ST O F A T C L E A Z F U I N E I L O A V R E L L G A SANTA MARIA L L E CAMPO T A Angelo di Paola N N A A C T ' PE L N C S A EL A S C I I San Nicolò E N TA R A E M DE A E M CAMPO D F O N D C C DRIO IL Museo Ebraico DEL GIGLIO I L E M G IO ST B C A F L CORTE E A E A AS U E L L Raffaele CIMITERO L R E San Vidal R L LL L I T D IM C dei Mendicoli E oi D L T A O L E PISANI A BAROZZI E L I T T N A N R A B A T A L I A L C R I D R A E O N DO AG F

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RIVA DI CORINTO V I A L E O N A R D O L O R E D A N

V I A J . D I E D O

ISOLA SAN SPIRITO I

RIVA BENEDETTO MARCELLO VIA ANTONIO VIVALDI IELMO MARCON

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VIA SANDRO GALLO

M A R E G VIA CRISTOFORO COLOMBO

UNGO L

VIA SAN PIGAFETTA

VIA SANDRO GALLO

V I A O N G A N I A VIA SAN PIGAFETTA

V I A A N D R E AVIA D ANICOLA A S O L A JENSON

RIVA GIOVANNI E VINDELLINO DA SPIRA

VIA SANDRO GALLO

V I A D E I S E S S A

VIA FRANCESCO PEZZANA

RIVIERA PASQUALI

VIA SANDRO GALLO

V I A D E L Z AT TA

V I A D E I R E M O N D I N I VIA GIOVANNI PIVIDOR

V I A C O L E T T I

VIA MALAMOCCO

ISOLA POVEGLIA VIA ALVISOPOLI

VIA MALAMOCCO

VIA FERRUCCIO PARRI

MALAMOCCO

VIA

VIA MALAMOCCO MALAMOCCO Chiesa S. Maria Assunta

A GIOV O N O C A I D I N N VA O I G VA I R PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

R I O T E R À BRENTATORE CORSO VERCELLI

CORSO ALESSANDRIA CORSO

TANGENZIALE NORD TORINO

VI A PAGANELLI

Parrocchia

Santa Gianna CORSO GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI CORSO GIULIO CESARE

ANZ OL A I V S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O

S T R A D A D I D R U E N D O STRADA DI DRUENDO 500 m V I A V E R O N E S E

BERGERA VIA VENARIA V I A R E I S S R O M O L I V IA A NDREA SANSOV V I A R E I S S R O M O L I IN O VIA TRAVES CORSO GAETANO SCIREA Juventus Museum V I A V E R O N E S E REBAUDENGO

VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO STRAD A DE Allianz Stadium LLA CO VI NT INE V I A R E I S S R O M O L I SS A A AL CORSO VERCELLI

I T R E B I N U C O I R O T T I V A I V FONSO VI A REFRA ANZ OL A I V STRADA ALTESSANO V I A V E R O N E S E V I A G V IA M A I U S E P P E VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA BADINI CONFALONIERI M A S S A R I V I A G I U S E P NCORE VIA VENARIA P E M A S S A R I S A C ANIS P E C IO O’ V I A G I U S U S E P P E D E P P E M GI A S S A R I VIA ETTORE STAMPINI

C O R S O F E R R A R A A VIA POMPEO COLAJANNI VI C C A R D O A R N RI V I A V I A VIA SANSOVINO O R B E T E L L O VIA VANINETTI

C O R S O G R O S S E T O V I A O R B VIA GIAMBATTISTA LULLI E T E V I L L O A G PIAZZA I U S E P P E M A

V I A M A S S A MANNO VIA ENRICO REYCEND S S A R I V I A R E Giardino Vittime delle Foibe V I A GIUSEPPE C O R S O G R O S O R B E T E L L O S E T O VIA DE MARCHI I S S R O M O L I CORSO GIULIO CESARE

VIA LEONARDO FEA

STRADAALTESSANO VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA

ST RADA D V ELL E V A I A T E LLE T TE V I O A IA SI C O R S O G R O S S E T O R N I I S D RACCORDO AUTOSTRADALE TORINO - CASELLE E R N I A ROS MBAR A O V I A L E L D E I M LE VALLETTE O DEL C U G H E Stazione A T T I D CINCINNATO CORS C O R S O G R O S S E T O V CORSO VERCELLI Madonna di Campagna VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE I VIA ALA DI STURA A STRA VIA FIESOLE NZIO T E R N I V V I A L U C E N Chiesa QUI I A L T O PIAZZA VIA PIRANO V I A V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I S O S P E L L O VIA CAMPIGLIA Santa Famiglia Di Nazaret V I A L E D E I M U G H E T T I U V I A B O T T I C E L L I C CONTI CORSO DEL MOLISE C A V Chiesa Santa Giardino I A S O S P E L L O DI E L U M I R P E L L E D A I V Caterina da Siena REBAUDENGO CORSO LUCIO V Chiesa Don Gnocchi I A T E R N I V I A S O S Madonna di Campagna P E L L O NA Giardino Jaquerio ADON NA STRA V I G PIAZZA LE M V I A T E R N A AMPA RUGGERO PIAZZA I VI I C D V AI N C I O L A P O R P O R A VIA BORGARO PIAZZA BONGHI, DERNA V I A B O T T I C E L L I VIA PARENZO VIA SARGIO VETTA V I A B R E N VIA GIOVANNI SEGANTINI V I A F O R L I ’ VIA CARDINALE G. MASSAIA TA STRADAALTESSANO V I A F D'ITALIA D EL BORGO VITTORIA O L I G N O VIA CASTELDELFINO Parco Sempione Est V I A M I C H E L E C V A I N D R E AC E S A LP N I O L A O P P I O O R B C O R S O T A R A N T O VIA SANSOVINO V I A M I C H E L E CORSO LOMBARDIA C O P P I O Parco Sempione V I A V I T E V I A D E L L E P R I M U L E Giardino Cavallotti PIAZZA VIA CAMPIGLIA V I A F O L I G N O PASQUALE V I A C V I A B E R A R L O L O VILLARI R E N Z I N I N A R D I N O L Stazione Torino Rebaudengo Fossata

V I A N I G R A U I N I V I A B R E G L I O V I A G U B B I O Chiesa Parr. S.Giuseppe VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE VIA MAZZE’ CORSO VERCELLI Benedetto Cottolengo VIA BREGLIO V I A E M I L I O B R U V AS TI R A D EL A V I A B R E G L I O V I A G O T T A R D O V I A F O L I G N O V I A S E M P I O N E V I A L E M M E V AI B O T T CI E L L I

S C A V I A A S S I S I V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A F O R L I ’ C O R S O T O S C A N A V VIA SARGIO I A B E R N A R D I N O L CORSO POTENZA PIAZZA U I N I LUIGI

CORSO LUCIO QUINZIO CINCINNATO FOGLIZZO VIA MATTIROLO VIA LAURO ROSSI VIA CARDINALE GUGLIELMO MASSAIA VIA CASTELDELFINO REGIO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A V I A F O L I G N O A S TA OS F A I V V I A T O Parrocchia Maria Speranza Nostra VIA BORG V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I M M A S O G U L L I V I A G O T T A R D O OMASSIMO LARGO V I A S E M P I O N E Ospedale San Giovanni

VIA BORGARO VIA SARGIO ERRICO ANA VIA FRANCECO CIGNA PARCO VIA VITERBO Bosco C O R S O T A R A N T O BARRIERA GIACHINO VIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLESI BIBI CORSO LOMBARDIA C O R S O T O S C A N A VIA BORSI VIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE BORGATA V I A G U B B I O DI STURA V I A P I A N E Z Z A V I A L E M M E V I A T I C I N O

V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA MICHELE ANTONIO VIBO’

VIA CHIESA DELLA SALUTE CORSO GIULIO CESARE VIA LAURO ROSSI FRASSATI VIA RENATO MARTORELLI A VIA VEROLENGO VIA GOTTARDO V I A V E R O L E N G O A G.TARTINI Piazza Chiesa della Salute CIN PIAZZA VIA CERESOLE VI VIA VEROLENGO V AS I T R A D E L A GHIRLANDAIO V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O PIAZZA CORSO VERCELLI VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA Parco della Conuenza CORSO VENEZIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE VIA BOCCARDO VIA MONTE ROSA VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Parco Aurelio VIA SANTHIA’ CORSO VENEZIA VIA GASPARI SPONTINI Peccei A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENALEVIA GIAMBATTISTA AN PERGOLESI S O T T O PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O

D VIA ERRICO GIACHINO V I A F O R L I ’ CORSO MORTARA VIA VALPRATO VIA SAVERIO MERCADANTE O LARGO PIAZZA N VIA DEL RIDOT TO V I A G O T T A R D O STRADELLA PIAZZA VIA CHERUBINI V I A S E M P I O N E A OTTORINO TRE T VIA CHERUBINI RESPIGHI Chiesa del Santo Volto - CABINE CORSO POTENZA VIA LUIGI SALVATORE CHERUBINI VIA BORGARA C VIA VALPRATO VIA VALPRATO VIA MONTANARO A V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A

C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A T VIA FRANCECO CIGNA

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N VIA CERVINO MEF Museo Ettore Fico Parco Dora Parrocchia VIA TESSO San Domenico Savio

VIA LEINI VIA CERVINO VIA ALESSANDRO CRUTO BARRIERA VIA BOLOGNA PO CORSO VENEZIA Teatro Monterosa Centro Piero VIA BALTEA D O R A R I P A R I A VIA SOANA VIA ERRICO PETRELLA PIAZZALE della Francesca PIAZZA DELLA LUNGO DORA LIGURIA Stazione Torino Dora GTT VIA GIOVANNI PAISIELLO VIA MADDALENE VIA PARELLA CORSO VERCELLI DI VIA ALESSANDROMILANO SCARLAT TI AUGUSTO CROCE PIAZZA ROSTAGNI ROSSA A Z Z E N A I P A I V GENERALE Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp ANTONIO C O R S O V I G E V A N O Giardini del

CORSO REGIO PARCO VIA PIETRO COSSA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA BALDISSERA Parrocchia VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene C O UROS M A BRI A NV I T O CON ECI C H I PIAZZA CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI T B O N C O R S O V I G E V A N O Della Pace C O R S O U M B R I A FRANCESCO VIA ERRICO PETRELLA CORSO GIULIO CESARE CRISPI VIA SANTHIA’

V AI D O M E N CI O C MI A R O S A VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE Piscina scolastica comunale E8 PIAZZA VIA FRANCECO CIGNAVIA PINEROLO GIOVANNI D O R A R I P A R I A CORSO POTENZA VIA PIOSSASCO BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I VIA GIAVENO VIA LIVORNO VIA GIOVANNI PACINI VIA ANDRA CASTAGNA V IA B E IN A S C O VIA PINEROLO CORSO PALERMO LARGO VIA MONTE ROSA L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I FRANCECO VIA ANTONELLO DA MESSINA VIA CUNEO C O R S O N O V A R A VIA MUZIO CLEMENTI CIGNA VIA AOSTA VIA TREVISO D O R ARP I A RA I

E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina Parco del Meisino C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I VIA CUNEO LARGO VIA PISTOIA VIA LUIGI DAMIANO BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O Mario Carrara A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA VIA BRA VIA TOLLEGO CORSO REGIO PARCO CORSO ENRICO GAMBA VIA FOSSANO VIA LIVORNO VIA CREMONA CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA CARMAGNOLA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S VIA NOVI VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio V I A B I E L L A PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C O UROS M A BRI VIA BOLOGNA VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O CORSO SVIZZERA VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BARI V I A C O M O V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO CORSO LECCE L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I VIA ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE ' C O R S O B R E S C IA P A VI V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S CORSO GIULIO CESARE I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA CHIVASSO PIAZZA CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A R O V I G O

VIA SAN DONATO CIRIO FRANCESCO VIA V I A M I C H E L E L E S S O N A VIA LEVANNA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI D O V A VIA FRATELLI PASSONI GIUSEPPE

A I S E S O G R O B A I V VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA VIA Il Fungo di Corso Telesio VIA LIVORNO PIE TRO COSSA PEROTTI V IA S A S S A R I VIA ROMAGNANO V I A B I E L L A VIA OMEGNA VIA RAVENNA CORSO REGIO PARCO VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI PIAZZA VIA BARI V I A C I R I E ' VIA ARONA VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Giardino C O RNSO O V A RA TOMMASO Ospedale Marino VIA CARDEZZA VIA CASERTA Ferraro VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI Maria Vittoria VIA BOLOGNA STRADA ANTICA DI COLLEGNO Parrocchia CAMPANELLA Chiesa VIA BRINDI San Pietro in Vincoli C O R S O B R E S C IA CORSO PALERMO VIA LUIGI GALVANI

VIA VITTORIOANDREIS VIA PIETRO COSSA S. Ermenegildo VIA SALBERTRAND S. Giovanna D'Arco STRADA A PIAZZA Re e Martire VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI CAMPIDOGLIO SI VIA BARCELLONA VIA VAGNONE NTICA BORGOMANERO VIA ORTA DI COLL VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA MARIA AUSILIATRICE VIA FRANCECO CIGNA VIA CARLO CAPELLI VIA MUSINE’ EGNO LARGO VIA BALME VIA CORIO VIA SALERNO LARGO

O R A Z Z A G O F A I V Parrocchia VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE NICOLA SAN DONATO Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice VIA NICOLA FABRIZI BRESCIA I A CARLO PEDROTTI FABRIZI S. Alfonso Maria V VIA CARLO BOSSI VIA SAN DONATO AURORA Ex Scalo Vanchiglia Dè Liguori A VIA DURANDI B C D E F G H CORSO TELESIO VIA LE CHIUSE I L

VIA EXILLES VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO VIA PERUGIA VIA PIERDONIGI PINELLI P A VDI O V A V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA VIA BALME VIA BORGO DORA VIA VITTORIO ANDREIS Lavazza Nuvola Parco Colletta VIA FIANO MARIA VIA INVORIO VIA AMEDEO P VIA SACCARELLI

V I A L E C E R T O S A VIALE CERTOSA DOMODOSSOLA VIA AUSILIATRICE Chiesa VIA VINCENZO MARIA MIGLIET TI V I A V A L E N T I N O C A R R E R A PIAZZA Torino Caselle VIA S. GIUSEPPE VIA SAN PIETRO IN VINCOLI C O RSO VE RO N A VIA NETRO Juventus VIA LUDOVICOBELLARDI 14 Reggia di Nostra Signora 12 Milano Malpensa GIAMPIETRO EYRON VIA GIACOMO MEDICI del Suragio Chiesa di S. Gioachino VIA BOLOGNA Stadium  (TRN) Airport Piccola Casa della (MXP) Airport

Venaria  Chiesa CHIRONI VIA NICOLA FABRIZI Divina Provvidenza VIA BURONZO PIAZZA Cottolengo L U N G O D O R A FR I E N Z E VIA Madonna VIA GIACOMO MEDICI BENEDETTO VITTORIO ASINARI DI BERNEZZO PIAZZA VIA CARLO TENIVELLI VIA BORGOMANERO VIA DELLA Divina Provvidenza VIA V.ASINARI DI BERNEZZO VIA ROASIO RISORGIMENTO MIGLIARA V I A A N C O N A E H C R A M O S R O C VIA GIOVANNI FORCA Chiesa COTTOLENGO SA PI AV I PARELLA VIA ASCANIO SOBRERO VIA MODENA 1 A I R A P I R A R OD 1 VIA SOSTEGNO Immacolata Concezione CORSO PRINCIPE ODDONE V I A S . C H I A R A VIA San Donato VIA SAN DONATO Chiesa C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A A Chiesa Parr. S. Anna Turin Map AMEDEO PEYRON VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Chiesa Evangelica Valdese Sacra Famiglia Cimitero Monumentale di Torino VIA BIANZÈ CORSO GIULIO CESAREPRIOCC PIAZZA VIA L. ARIOSTO . VIA CARLO MICHELE BUSCALIONI V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I COLLEGNO GIACINTO VIA PEYRON . D C O RNSO O V A RA VIA STEFANO CLEMENTE C L U VIA G. MAMELI V I A F O G G I A

VIA RAFFAELLO MORGHEN RAFFAELLO VIA IA V I A V I T T O R I O S A S S I V I A G I A C I N T O P A C H I O T T I V I A S A N TA C H I A R V N GD O O SAR V P O VIA ROSOLINO PILO CORSO PRINCIPE EUGENIO VIA C. CAGLIERO VIA GIUSEPPE TALUCCHI MICHELESCHINA VIA Anagrafe CORSO SVIZZERA VIA GIACOMO MEDICI VIA PRINCIPI D'ACAJA VIA PARMA VIA ROSOLINO PILO VIA ROSTA CORSO PALERMO VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA LARGO VIA CARLO CAPELLI V I A C A R L O I G N A Z I O G I U L I O VIA SAN DOMENICO A CIBRARIO Centro Palatino Parco della Tesoriera PIEDICAVALLO VIA Ex Ospedale San Luigi VIA SOSTEGNO VIA MATTEUCCI Pala Fuksas VIA MANTOVA VE RO NC OA RSO

VIA SALBERTRAND

VIA GIANFRANCESCO RE CORSO LECCE VIA DEL CARMI VIA PIETRO PIFFETTI VIA A. MANZONI V I A S O N A Chiesa Cristiana A N TA Mercato CORSO XI FEBBRAIO PIAZZA Alimentare V I A V A L G I O I E V I A V A L G I O I E Evangelica Pentecostale C H I A VIA GIAN DORA RIPARIA V I A V A L G I O I E STATUTO NE PIAZZA CORSO MONTE GRAPPA VIA FELICE CORDERO DI PAMPARATO R A Mercato FRANC NA VIA DIGIONE PIAZZA VIA SAN DOMENICO PIAZZA DELLA VIA EXILLES V I A B L I G NY Ittico VIA CARLO ALLIONI Santuario ESCO FIOCHETTO VIA BRIONE VIA BONELLIMANUELE REPUBBLICA CORSO REGIOMESSI PARCO CAD O SRE della Consolata LUNGO DORA FIRENZE

VIA BORGOSESIA VIA ALPIGNANO CORSO VALDACCO Museo della FILIBERTO FANE VIA CAMANDONA BERNINI PIAZZA V I A Mercato C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A OR CORSO FRANCIA STATUTO VIA ALBERTO NOTA Alimentare CORSO CATANIA Fermi PIAZZA Principi d'Acaja VIA DEL CARMINE Sindone VIA MAGENTA SA PI AV I

CORSO FRANCIA VIA PIETRO COSSA Giardino Giuseppe Delno VIA GIOVANNI SOMIS Chiesa di VIA SOSTEGNO RIVOLI V I A E D M O N D O D E A M I C I S Chiesa La Visitazione CORSO FRANCIA Bernini2 Santa Chiara 2 CORSO CADORE PIAZZA VIA DELLE VIA DUCHESSA JOLANDA CORSO SAN MARTINO PIAZZETTA CORSO TELESIO VIA MILLAURES Chiesa di NZE DELLA RE VIA GRAZIA DELEDDA DEL VIA DELLA CONSOLATA Sant’Agostino to I Racconigi VISITAZIONE VIA S. CHIARA r LUNGO AGLIARI VIA GIACOMO LEOPARDI CORSO FRANCIA CORSO MARCHE VIA LUDOVICO BELLARDI MONASTERO VIA ABATE VASSALLI VIA BOUCHERON San Giovanni VIA MODENA LUNGO DORA FI Rivoli Chiesa del PIAZZA VIA Basilica VIA ENRICO CIALDINI Battista Umbe Porta Palatina CORSO REGGIO Y E R O D I U G A I V VIA ABATE VASSALLI SAN VIA ANT’AGOSTINO Mauriziana ia V I A C V I A P ICarmine AV E Giardino DORA SIE LUNGO DORA VOGHERA

Monte Grappa VIA DEI QUARTIERI SAVOIA DO er A N A I B U R A I V VIA BORGONE VIA V I A F I L I P P O J U VA R R A DORA RIPARIA VIA TRANA Jan Palach VIA CORTE D’ MENICO RONDÒ VIA PARMA PIAZZA Parrocchia V IA G IU S E P P E G A R IB A L D I Chiesa di Gall Museo di Antichità LUNGO DORA SIENA CORSO FRANCIA VIA DELLA CIT TADELLA V I A D E L L A B A S I L I C A RIVELLA Pozzo Strada Maria Regina Parrocchia San Domenico D R A L U A E B A I V VIA COAZZE Museo NA MASSAUA VIA FREIDOUR Gesù Nazareno VIA G. L. PASSALACQUA VIA GIOVANNI BERTR APPELLO C O R S O V IT T O R IO E M A N U E L E I delle Missioni V IA A N T O N IO B E R T O L A Area Archeologica C O RSOT R TO N A CORSO BELGIO VIA SUSA di Arte Orientale CAD O SRE VIA A. MANZONI Massaua del Teatro Romano CORSO FRANCIA E Chiesa di Marche Giardino ex San Dalmazzo C O R S O P E S C H IE R A Ex Stazione Porta Susa AN VIA G.F. BELLEZZA Galleria Sabauda VIA SANT’ANTONINO VIA ALESSANDRO MANZONI

Venchi Unica VIA LE VIA CAPRIE CIT TURIN DI RA U ci V I A S A NT’ANTONINO XVIII Dicembre C O R VIA VIPACCO VIA VIA DUCHESSA JOLANDA V I A M I L A N O Comunali PIAZZA LUNGO DORACampus SIENA Luigi Einaudi

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CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

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