Chile & Easter Island 11

PDF Chile & Easter Island

Chiloé (PDF Chapter) Edition 11th Edition, October 2018 Pages 22 Page Range 277–296 COVERAGE INCLUDES: Useful Links • Ancud Want more guides? • Quemchi Head to our shop • Dalcahue • Isla Quinchao Trouble with your PDF? Trouble shoot here • Peninsula de Rilán • Castro Need more help? Head to our FAQs • Parque Nacional Chiloé Stay in touch • Parque Tantauco Contact us here • Quellón

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Chiloé

Includes  Why Go? Ancud...... 279 When the early-morning fog shrouds misty-eyed and misun- Quemchi...... 283 derstood Chiloé, it’s immediately apparent something differ- Dalcahue...... 285 ent this way comes. Isla Grande de Chiloé is South America’s Isla Quinchao...... 286 fifth-largest island and is home to a fiercely independent, seafaring people. Peninsula de Rilán...... 288 Immediately apparent are changes in architecture and Castro...... 289 cuisine: tejuelas, the famous Chilote (of Chiloé) wood shin- Parque Nacional gles; palafitos (houses mounted on stilts along the water’s Chiloé...... 294 edge); the iconic wooden churches (16 of which are Unesco Parque Tantauco...... 295 World Heritage sites); and the renowned meat, potato and Quellón...... 296 seafood stew, curanto. A closer look reveals a rich spiritual culture that is based on a distinctive mythology of witch- craft, ghost ships and forest gnomes. All of the above is weaved among landscapes that are wet, Best Places to Eat windswept and lush, with undulating hills, wild and remote national parks, and dense forests, giving Chiloé a distinct ¨¨Rucalaf Putemún (p292) flavor unique in South America. ¨¨Cazador (p292) ¨¨Mercadito (p292) ¨¨La Cocinería Dalcahue When to Go (p286) Ancud ¨¨Cocineria Tradiciones °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm Morelia (p295) 30/86 10/250 8/200 20/68 6/150 10/50 Best Places to 4/100

Stay 0/32 2/50 ¨ ¨Tierra Chiloé (p289) -10/14 0 J FDM A M J J A S O N ¨¨Palafito del Mar (p291) ¨¨OCIO Territorial Hotel Feb The clearest Sep–Mar Pen- Dec–May Best (p289) skies of the year guins breed in time of year to ¨¨Palafito Cucao Hostel in Chiloé, but Monumento catch endangered (p294) you’ll still need a Natural Islotes de blue whales off poncho. Puñihuil. Chiloé’s northwest ¨¨Isla Bruja Lodge (p295) coast. Ferry )

e 40 km 7

7 u Caleta Chaitén

h 295 Parque Puelche i Ayacara Natural

ñ Pumalín e (p R 20 miles o ) Tearing ) Tearing Región X d r o i Volcán (2300m) F 283 Corcovado (p Isla Puluqui

Isla Talcán y

leeping in remote ) Sleeping in remote

Isla Butachauques rr

e

Parque Tantauco Parque Peninsula de Rilán Peninsula Curanto F

Islas 288 osing yourself on a hut-to- yourself osing

Ancud Chauques

8 L untamed through hut trek rainforest. temperate 9 7 (p at this picturesque luxury peninsula. into a bowl of Chiloé’s most most Chiloé’s of a bowl into dish. traditional

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Isla Llingua Isla Isla Meulín ) Corcovado ) Isla Mechuque Tenaún Isla Caucahue 285 283 Chaulinec Isla Quinchao Isla Tranqui Pargua (p Isla Linlín (p Queilén Achao Chacao Isla Cailín San Isla Lemuy Juan

Linao o Rilán Aldachildo

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) Hiking along Chiloé’s ) Hiking along Chiloé’s

C Carelmapu ricana e

m a Isla Mechuque Monumento Natural Natural Monumento Parque Nacional Chiloé Parque Caulín Pan Isla San Pedro

e Putamún Chulchuy d a 294 Quellón

r Quilquico l wild. 5 (p coast. and wild west raging 6 the idyllic mini- Wandering Chiloé. of island microcosm u 4 de Puñihuil Islotes and Magellanic Spying Humboldt penguins in the

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l Peninsula n a a

t Dalcahue

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B Antonio Mocopulli Lago San Castro )

Río Nercón Ancud Chonchi Lago Villupulli Huillinco le ouls. 288 o Chaiguata

y Lago Quetalmahue C

a Lago Chaiguaco (p n e Tepuhueco l a ) Taking Lago A o Chiloé

Parque a Lago Cucao in Nacional C ed

de Chiloé M

284 Huillinco o

Isla Grande Río Río Lacuy

Chepu Rí (p Chiloé Parque Nacional Isla Península Cucao

) Trekking across across ) Trekking Metalqui Unesco-listed Unesco-listed Muelle de las Almas Muelle de las Chepu

Isla 294 Quilán las Almas dawn kayak trip through a trip through kayak dawn forest. sunken misty mythological Dock of S of Dock mythological 3 (p the to landscape Chiloé’s Chiloé’s churches. Chiloé’s 2 1 Churches Wooden at the awe in Genuflecting Chiloé Highlights Chiloé Parque Huentemó Muelle de

Islotes de Puñihuil Islotes Tantauco O C E A N

P A C I F I C Monumento Natural Monumento Highlights

Chiloé 278 Chiloé GAncettinud g There & Away 279

------S vis M MUSEU M MUSEU UTDOOR ESS FORTR O During 8:30am-9pm ibertad 370; Libertad suggested do suggested

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This agen is the go-to Ancud, www.austral-adventures.com; at & Sun) S 9:30am-7pm Jan & Feb, 9:30am- & Feb, Jan 9:30am-7pm

h www.museoancud.cl;

La Ruta de Las Iglesias Chiloé at & Sun Mar-Dec) Sights Tours ord Cochrane & Baquedano; Cochrane ord Museo Regional de Ancud Ancud de Regional Museo Centro de Visitantes Centro de Visitantes 65-262-5977; You’ll also find an interesting museumfind also You’ll 10am-7:30pm Jan & Feb, 10am-5:30pm Tue-Fri, to Tue-Fri, 10am-5:30pm & Feb, Jan 10am-7:30pm % Museo Chilote; Museo cy for English-speaking tours from Ancud, jauntsextendedincluding nature-centric and on the bay to see penguins, kayaking eco- with a fierce – always bird-watching than the cookie- slant and more elaborate Lewis impos is Britt owner US tours. cutter sibly nice and knowledgeable. and a massive intactand a massive blue-whale skeleton. Antonio San Fuerte L (cnr 9am-8pm S Mon-Fri, San An the wars of independence, Fuerte last Chilean outpost. At tonio was Spain’s the northwest late-colonial corner of town, cannon emplacements look down on the harbor from the early-19th-century remains a somewhat-secluded of the fortress. There’s Gruesa, behind the north beach, Playa wall. T Adventures Austral ( 904) Costanera Av shop, where you can pick up the free bi shop, where you lingual dig Chiloéitors’ guide. If you churches, the coffee-table has produced a good foundation shop. in the book, which is also available o Canobra Bórquez Aurelio ( h 2pm S museum, casually referred to as Museo tracking interesting displays Chiloé, offers the history island, including a full- of the sized replica of the of Magellan treacherous fjords of the Strait southernmost territories; to claim Chile’s Puñihuil make it an easy-to-digest base for base easy-to-digest it an make Puñihuil exploring Chiloé. corner of a lesser visited 1 o Concepción Inmaculada (www.iglesiasdechiloe.cl; nation CH$500; Mar-Nov) Mon-Fri 1pm & 2:30-6pm churches Unesco-listed Chiloé’s about visiting this excellent mu stoppingwithout first in at Inmacu in the former Convento seum housed home to It’s lada Concepción de Ancud (1875). scale models of all 16 churches, whichwooden interior of the intricate show the workings of each. woodwork ------ntil (stilt houses) ATAM AirlinesATAM operates rande de Chiloé, but palafitos ) between Pargua, on the 276 (p atin America – linking Chiloé with ferry be operational in the next decade. U Getting There & Away 8 may But Ancud’s coup is its natural sur coup is its natural But Ancud’s During the wars of independence, Chiloé independence, of wars the During 65 / POP40,800 roundings, and for those who want a taste time to head asof Chiloé but don’t have far south as Castro, its spectacular nearby coastline, excellent seafood, cozy hostels and de Islotes Natural to Monumento proximity which, by the time you read this, should haveshould this, read you time the by which, pe a paths, bike include to over made been plazas. and multiple seating destrian pier, 1960 decimated the town. Today, version 2.0, version Today, the town. 1960 decimated only city quaint, is a sprawling though rather architecturepeppered with occasional native leading down to the spectacular waterfront – % place withAncud wealthy was once a rather buildings, gracious line. But the earthquake ofand a railway one daily flight from Santiago to Castro via Puer to Montt five days a week(four in low season). Ancud the mainland, has been postponed several times but then, bus fares to/from the mainland include the half-hour ferry crossing. L northeast corner of Isla G that is all set to change over the coming years. Cha Puente controversial the on Construction cao, a 2.6km suspension bridge – the largest of its kind in L The most popular route for travelers is the frequent Montt, Puerto of southwest 62km mainland and Chacao, a small town of little interest at the the length of the main island. Fishing was of the main island. the length heavily but is now industry, is the main and farming. by salmon and shellfish dominated 8 radar until the 1850suntil the radar proximity when its the islands gave to the new Puerto Montt importance.increasing commercial took It centuryanother to establishrunning a road was a Spanish stronghold;was a Spanish the Spanish re from and 1824 in 1820 sisted criollo attacks fortified Ancud,heavily until their final the off Chiloéin 1826. defeat stayed itself pox epidemic killed much of the indigenousepidemic killed much of pox fur measles epidemic in 1580 A population. influence. the native ther weakened The islands were first populated by the Chonothe by Thepopulated first were islands the Archi toward pushed who were people, from invaded Mapuche Aisén as the de pelago the north. The took full possession Spaniards after years a small some five of Chiloé in 1567, History 1 2 3 5 4

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Chiloé 280 Chiloé SAleencupind g 281

------$ $ $ $

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S Cos

TEL An E CAF E CAF mains S

B FOOD FOOD UB HO P 11am-4am Ramírez 359; Ramírez h

T PERMARKET SU

Pudeto 44; Pudeto ord Cochrane 412; Cochrane ord

9am-9:30pm) L 10am-9pm Mon- 10am-9pm Having reopened Having h

9:30am-8:30pm Mon- )

h h W berry are a cheesecake)

at; A very addition welcome ) Prat 318; Prat www.hostalmundonuevo.com; W

dm/s/d/q CH$14,000/$39,000/52,000 dm/s/d/q

Well-regarded Peruvian chef Sandra Peruvian Well-regarded Eating Drinking & This Swiss-owned midrange hotel mas hotel This midrange Swiss-owned

) S pichangas, maqui 65-262-8383;

The (from CH$12,000 for outdoor hot tub ) at, 4-7pm Sun; 4-7pm at, % CH$5000-13,000, pizzas CH$11,000; pizzas CH$5000-13,000, in a grittier space near Plaza de Armas in de near Plaza space in a grittier most timeless bar is divey in Ancud’s 2016, The all the right ways. menu is chock-full of of Kansas, killer burritos the size Tex-Mex, buns,sourdough-reminiscent on burgers is pizzas and more. Everything stone-cooked made from scratch. nice change from Chileannice change staples. Blanco Café (www.facebook.com/cafeblancoancud; mains CH$3700-6900; S Ancudthe to Castroscene, this cozy dining occupiestransplant a colorful and rambling old Chilote home and is a requisite stop for sandwiches, salads, and sweet-tooth-satiat and pies (CH$1500 to CH$3100).ing cakes inLocally produced provisions are available the organic shop as well. Pub Retro’s (www.facebook.com/retros.pub; 6pm-4am S Mon-Fri, 5 Unimarc (www.unimarc.cl; best supermarket. cud’s Amaranthine Café (www.amaranthinechiloe.com; mains CH$4500-5500; W opened this drop-dead adorableEchegaray op organic and vegetarian first cafe, Chiloé’s colorful touches like Rustic-chic tion, in 2017. retrowrought-iron chairs and mismatched upped the cutesy vibe ante, andcouches have teas, smoothies andthe wonderful coffees, veg (quinoa burgers, more substantial plates gie Nuevo Mundo Hostal ( 748; tanera CH$29,000/42,000; bathroom without s/d /64,000, iW hostela as justis and skip hop, a querading It the Cruz del Sur bus station. a jump from boasts postcard-perfect sunset views the over of AncudBay from a big, comfortable bench and also fromfront porch, lit naturally its on larger new, two (including its 13 privates a six-bed dorm. rooms) and worth guests)eight to reservingup well is a few A new was hours in advance. restaurant visited. when we in the works

------) ) ) $ $ $

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W for TEL USE

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Playa L Playa GRO CAMP GUES

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Awash in antique in Awash ) refugios (rustic shelters) campsites per person CH$7000, CH$7000, per person campsites www.hostal-lluhay.cl; www.chil-hue.com; www.13lunas.cl; www.hotelarenagruesa.cl;

piW

s/d/tr incl breakfast CH$22,000/ incl breakfast s/d/tr

Sleeping r from CH$70,000, casitas CH$110,000; casitas CH$70,000, r from

Hostel Lunas 13 65-262-5977; 65-262-2106; 65-262-3428; 65-262-2656; On offer are two stylish apartments stylish with are two On offer The backpack bestoption for migrating % % % % front casita, however, it’s just you and the and just you it’s however, casita, front This remote and rustic dolphins in the bay. know certainfor only is You souls. getaway are. who you south of Ancud. organic greens (pluck your kitchenettes garden), but sea from the adjacent straight beach the isolated views are obstructed. In gourmet chef (who will also cook you dinner will also cook you gourmet chef (who for CH$15,000) and Ashtanga instruc yoga built just on three lodgings tor – who have beach 6kmtheir property on an isolated For those with extra pesos and a penchant For in An for solitude, this is the place for you Ad from Austral hosts are Britt cud. Your – a Peruvian and his wife, Sandra ventures rooms. It’s also a minute’s walk to the beach. walk to also a minute’s rooms. It’s Chil-Hué ( gua; north side of town. The and area is grassy hot wa decently maintained, with electricity, night, tiny ter at and bright, surprisingly clean bath days rainy tanera Norte 290; Norte tanera CH$38,000/49,000; from incl breakfast s/d views campsites don’t get much better City on the a bluff atop than this one, located cakes), pouring you cocktails by the fireplace, you pouring cakes), or knocking out a fewon the piano. bars Camping Arena Gruesa ( kitsch and character, Lluhay wins over visi wins over Lluhay kitsch and character, tors with its very owners. Don’t be welcoming surprised if they start delicious feeding you homemade küchen (sweet, German-style Lluhay Hostal ( 458; rane 38,000/45,000; natural light, hotel-standard bathrooms, a light, hotel-standard bathrooms, natural with and a wonderful terrace lawn grassy and activeviews. water recy Solar-heated it an eco-edge. cling give ers, 13 Lunas is situated directly is situated ers, 13 Lunas the opposite Owner Claudiomain bus terminal. and his are young,multicultural enthusiastic staff while the hosteland speak English, ooz itself of plenty bright hardwoods, es coziness with o ( 22,000/30,000; s/d CH$11,500, dm from S 4 -

- -

- at, at, S (cnr un) owns owns un) ) This is the HOURS 1½ 32 3 16 8 6 1½ 12 ¾ 4 2 W Cruz del Sur del Cruz (www.muniancud.cl; (www.muniancud.cl; 6am-11pm Mon- 6am-11pm Terminal Municipal Terminal cell 9-6301-9912; antiago at 7pm and aturday at 8:30am. h Terminal de Buses de Terminal % ( at, 7am-11pm S 7am-11pm at, un Mar-Nov; S 8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am- Mon-Fri, 8:30am-7pm COST (CH$) 2000 23,000 1700 6200 4500 5000 45,000 4000 30,000 11,000 8500 65-262-1140; www.queilenbus. 65-262-1140; h % 65-262-2800; www.sernatur.cl; www.sernatur.cl; 65-262-2800; ( at & S un Dec-Feb, 9.30am-5pm Mon-Thu, ur buses go to Punta Arenas every % 10am-5pm) Helpful municipal tour municipal Helpful 10am-5pm) ( h at & S Getting There & Away 8 65-262-2265; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; www.busescruzdelsur.cl; 65-262-2265; ample starting fares in high season are as 6am-11pm Mon- 6am-11pm antiago Chiloé’s more rural destinations to the east, as Cruz del S S xpect very helpful staff, brochures, town town brochures, staff, helpful very xpect ibertad669; os Carreras & Cavada; DESTINATION DESTINATION Castro Concepción Dalcahue Osorno Montt Puerto Varas Puerto Arenas Punta Quellón S Temuco Valdivia % well as afternoon buses to Chepu, the gateway to the northern end of Parque Nacional Chiloé, are serviced by buses that leave from the small Inter-Rural Terminal Colo Colo 860). The schedule is posted near the bathroom (if not, ask at the administration office); simply buy tickets on the bus. the quality of the bus/classes): 7am-11pm which Sun), offers the most depar tures to Chiloé’s more southerly towns, with departures around every hour, and to cities on the Panamericana to the north (including two daily departures to S 7:35pm). It’s a five-minute walk from the water terminal the to/from taxi A downtown. and front Costanerato Av in downtown costs CH$2000. Bus Queilen cl) operates out of the old (Anibal Pinto 1200), 1.5km from the center. Tuesday, Thursday and S Queilen Bus heads out Monday at 7:30am. How travelersever, going to most southerly regions beyond Chiloé and to Bariloche, Argentina, will do better to take buses from Puerto Montt. follows (prices can fluctuate with company and Informaciones Turísticas Informaciones Ruta 5; ism office at the entrance to town. Sernatur L 7pm S to 4:30pm S island. the office on tourist national formal only E wi-fi. and accommodations of lists maps, 8 Ancud has three bus terminals. ( h and operates the main L

- - - - - $ $

BAR 1pm- 8am- 9am- E CAF G OTHIN (fish MARKET cazue h h h T MARKET CL

9am-9pm) Ancud’s Ancud’s ) h chupe W

ocated at the 8:30am-7:30pm 8:30am-7:30pm

This cozy cafe ) h at;

S W

Has an abundance Has 24hr) L at;

ibertad 621) ATM. h L ( 9am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 3-6pm & Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Costanera Norte 200; Norte Costanera (www.hospitalancud.gov.cl; (www.hospitalancud.gov.cl;

at) at) beers CH$2000-3000; beers h

(www.correos.cl; cnr Pudeto & & Pudeto cnr (www.correos.cl; sandwiches CH2500-3200; sandwiches In a nod to Chiloé’s age-old Chiloé’s a nod to In meals CH$2500-7000; meals

atorre 301; 301; atorre

rrázuriz Errázuriz www.conaf.cl; 65-262-7520; ncalada; % 8:30am-12:50pm & 2:30-5:30pm Mon & & Mon 2:30-5:30pm & 8:30am-12:50pm

( at, 9am-6:30pm Sun) 9am-6:30pm at, S Information Shopping h 8

cell 9-8424-3110; cell The home-brewingfriendly also owner (meat and vegetable stew), and vegetable (meat % corner of Pedro Montt. Pedro of corner Hospital de Ancud L Almirante CorreosChile Blanco E S 9:30am-12:30pm Ancud office of Chile’s National Forest Corpora tion can assist with info on national parks. 317; Wed, 8:30am-12:50pm & 2:30-6:30pm Fri) The Banco de Chile ATM Conaf Mon- of craft stalls. 8 Municipal Mercado & Libertad; cnr Dieciocho (Prat, ven coats, dresses, scarfs, shawls, tops, wall dresses, scarfs, coats, ven shawls, art.hangings and framed in a crumbling home in Arena Gruesa sells wo high-quality dyed modern, naturally 5pm Mon-Fri) housed this boutique traditions, weaving Kelgwo ( 7 of the same name in the 1960s and ’70s. and craft beer on tap – Cuello Negro There’s on. – and Victorian-like sofas to lounge Kross classiest bar is housed in a restored shingled Chilote once hostedclub a social house that (Baquedano 469; (Baquedano & Fri 2am to Mon-Thu, 1am Baquedano Club Social CH$2800) or catching a sandwich on theCH$2800) or catching witchcraft undercur a playful cheap. There’s rent and it feels more Chiloé than elsewhere. is always packed with discerning locals, sip with packed is always (CH$1000- coffee ping decent cappuccinos (Maipú 650; S 10am-7pm 8pm Mon-Fri, El Embrujo de Chiloé El Embrujo casserole) and setcasserole) and for around lunch menus CH$7000. CH$2500 to Tucked away off Dieciocho is a series of Dieciocho is off away Tucked marketdown-home stalls up dishing la Gastronómico (Dieciocho; Cocinerías Mercado Mercado Cocinerías makes a good Trappist-style Belgian Tripel Belgian Tripel Trappist-style a good makes on the way. with porters,stouts and IPAs

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Getting There & Away 8 Boat trips to viewBoat penguins is the main the 065 / POP9102 aturday). A round trip taxi from Ancud including wait S When weather permits, Austral also runs permits, Austral When weather trips here too. and sea-lion whale-watching 8 From Ancud’s Terminal Inter-Rural, Brava near Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil, at 1pm and 5pm (Monday to Friday) and 1pm ( event. 4302; Quemchi % the snowcapped On a clear summer day, mountains of southern Chile loom in the the run at noon and 4pm (Monday, Wednesday and Friday), 4pm (Tuesday and Thursday) and 1pm ( Run crossroads, from which it is a 2km walk to the beach (follow thepaved road). In low season services drop off substantially. Buses return about 75-minutes after their Ancud departure. CH$20,000. is time tour adult/child CH$3500/700) adult/child tour of the seven licensed penguin-viewing op with day per trips so or 20 runs and erators between boats local fishing three upgraded tourists out for a closer10am and 6pm to take the cute(but quick) look at (if birds fightless they’reotherfor beach the down on walk full, is provided. Boats gear options). All-weather best to book – it’s up in high season can fill (p Adventures Austral ahead at (a rhubarb-like plant) or (a rhubarb-like

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curanto curanto al hoyo, Getting Around Getting CH$400 between 7am and 9pm, CH$500 8 cell 9-8379-2328, cell 9-9952-1984; Ter 9-9952-1984; cell 9-8379-2328, cell CURANTO: CHILOÉ’S CULINARY COUP CULINARY CHILOÉ’S CURANTO: season only unless you are a big group with advance reservations). If you can’t make it make can’t If you reservations). with advance a big group are you unless only season ( there the pit and dirt – is thing – minus best the next waiting), Ancud with trip from 94; (Prat plant of Chile) leaves and damp cloths before the whole shebang was covered in dirt and covered was shebang the whole before and damp cloths leaves Chile) plant of way, it this traditional prepare still Locals hours. two nearly simmer for to and left grass called mahue Jan-Feb) 10pm to 8pm, Chiloé’s most traditional dish is of unknown origins, but historically its preparation harks harks preparation its historically but origins, unknown is of dish traditional most Chiloé’s Traditionally culinary ancestry. Polynesian of ovens the earth to back piling on then directly crackled, until they a hole in the ground in up stones heating by by followed chicken, pork and shellfish, No words can quite prepare you for the first moment a piping hot bowl of bowl a piping hot moment the first for you prepare quite can No words as Rest mind. to comes into?’ myself did I get ‘What but you, of in front table on the in. all that food shove time to it’s in handy when come will slack jaw your however, sured, To visitTo Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñi % penguins is when they are breeding, from might otherwise (you September to March An in agencies travel Several luck). out of be cud organize excursions to the site. penguins, and a haven for blue whales. Thepenguins, and a haven entire area is protected monu as a natural is enforced in zone ment and a no-fishing the area. The for the to go best time of year Islotes de Puñihuil de Islotes on the coast of Puñihuil, Three islands off Ocean, are breeding grounds for the Pacific and the near-extinct Magellanic Maipú) (CH$2000). Maipú) Monumento Natural foot. Further flung, uphill destinations like the Terminal Municipal can be reached via tivos at night and on S grabbing a substantially. 8 Ancud is small and mostly manageable on day and Thursday)and 1pm ( will drop you at Piedra Run crossroads, from where it is a 2km walk to the beach (follow the paved road). In low season, services drop off lahue (CH$2000), at 1pm and5pm (Monday to Friday) and 1pm ( ( minal Inter-Rural) heads out at noon and 4pm (Monday, Wednesday and Friday), 4pm (Tues huil on public transport, (Terminal Inter-Rural) heads to nearby Pumil - - UB WP -

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Chiloé Natural Chiloé Alihuen , a larger and newer version of Chiloé’s mystical and famous Muelle de las Almas, Almas, Muelle de las and famous mystical Chiloé’s of version and newer a larger , Sleeping Eating & Bus Juan Carlos Silva has one 4pm departure from Ancud’s Terminal Inter-Rural Inter-Rural Terminal Ancud’s from has one 4pm departure Silva Juan Carlos Bus Stay at Stay Don’t skip Don’t Chepu’s masterpiece is a breathtaking spot overlooking the confluence of three rivers rivers of three the confluence overlooking spot is a breathtaking masterpiece Chepu’s

El Chejo 65-269-1230; 65-269-1490; CHEPU reached via a 45-minute boat ride from Muelle Anguay near Refugio Lugar de Encuentro de Encuentro Lugar Refugio near Anguay Muelle ride from boat a 45-minute via reached the meets Chepu river the where off on a pier dropping perched Attractively in Chepu. Almas. of background mythological the strong but it lacks the dock is engrossing, ocean, ism agency ism agency including lodging/meals). person Sun) and 140 sq km of sunken forest (a phenomena created by by the 1960 Valdivia earth Valdivia the 1960 by by created (a phenomena forest sunken km of sq and 140 kill the and the area enter to water salt allowing 2m, some sunk the ground which quake, ecotour recommended by trip offered kayak on a serene dawn at seen best It’s trees). Previously difficult to access and lacking infrastructure, infrastructure, and lacking access to difficult Previously beauty. pristine of a sanctuary remains Ancud, of southwest 38km Chiloé, Nacional Parque rural! – it’s Bring supplies species. and 128 bird and rivers coastline stunning find You’ll on Monday, Wednesday and Friday for Chepu. The buses returns to Ancud at 5:30pm to returns The buses Chepu. for and Friday Wednesday on Monday, road. flag it along the main one hour); (CH$2000, gian and Chilote tradition. tradition. gian and Chilote www.agroturismochepu.cl; incl dinner CH$25,000/22,000) farm (rainwater catchment, organic greenhouse) near his cozy, cabin-in-the-woods-like cabin-in-the-woods-like his cozy, near greenhouse) organic catchment, (rainwater farm This tucked-away cabin. recycled-corrugated-iron a two-bedroom Reciclada, Cabaña and machine washing kitchen, pinewood-accented a fully equipped, features escape Bel between teeter dinner CH$16,000) CH$5000, (breakfast Meals area. BBQ outdoor Flemish chef and former guide Jeroen (locals call him Yuna) runs a fiercely sustainable sustainable runs a fiercely Yuna) him call (locals Jeroen guide and former Flemish chef There are also a few % % CH$4000-9800; honest food pre Chejotreasure, El offers o ( back. or five to get sea glimpses, but avoid room to get sea glimpses, but avoid or five no room for luggage). three (there’s by electrical location, wires) and a prime 50m from El Chejo. Ask for rooms one, two isn’t the only game in town, but it boastsit but town, in game only thethe isn’t best sea views (though some are obstructed Bahamonde 141; Bahamonde CH$20,000/25,000; from s/d CH$10,000, Costanera Hospedaje ( Quemchi has the highest change in tides (7m)Quemchi has the highest change scenesurreal for a on the island, which makes out. while the water’s boats of beached fishing 4 strolling along the bay and passing the hoursstrolling along the bay best Chejo.El – restaurants Chiloé’s of one in this sleepy little town. Quemchi’s waterfront town. Quemchi’s this sleepy little for a day, is an ideal place to lose yourself distance over misty Quemchi, topping off an topping off Quemchi, misty distance over view ofwall sea the impressive from already

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Sights Sleeping 65-264-2020; 65-264-1651; cell 9-9000-6709; cell Dalcalhue’s revamped waterfront – with Dalcalhue’s % Pedro Montt; Pedro % % spot.com; clean with comfortable beds and cozy down trans comforters. Ana, a friendly Valparaiso breakfast. little plant, whips up a great Lüfkümen Hostal ( ( daily but is at its best on Sundays, when all its best on Sundays, daily but is at participate.the surrounding islands Dolores de Los Señora Nuestra (Plaza Armas) de 16 protected by is another one of the island’s A complete finishedwas restoration Unesco. everything new which gave a shiny in 2015, not for the better. glow – some say 4 Lanita Hostal ( 50B; O’Higgins CH$12,500; from breakfast a mas B&B just There’s a block from the sea. guestfor kitchen dinnerand (lunch use sive rooms areonly) and shared-bathroom-only fair and Unesco-listed church. It’s also the also It’s church. Unesco-listed and fair of one Quinchao, for Isla point jumping-off in and accessible more Chile’s archipelagic Mechugue. teresting Isla islands, and un was – boardwalk a and seating pleasant in 2017. veiled 1 Fair Crafts ( Mar-Nov) artstic sweat by craftsand dominated here, from woven ers, socks, and hats pigments made from with natural and dyed open mud. It’s and iron-rich roots, leaves without bathroom per person CH$12,000; per person without bathroom 100-year-old from a rambling A move Chilote charm to a farhome chock-full of antiquated Pata Encanto means ranch cinematic less took a hit, but the simple atmosphere gon’s the excellent rooms – and, more importantly, Ramón Freire 121; Freire Ramón 40,000; is in tip-top shape (spit-shined floors, hard locallack may it while and, walls) wood The for money. value good it offers character, which bathroom, single rooms with private drop to CH$15,000 in low season, are about is not as it gets if sharing bathrooms as good thing.your Patagon Encanto Hostal

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ou ou Buses Buses ugenin. Y ugenin. upermercado upermercado Cruz del Sur del Cruz leave continuously continuously leave 65-264-1570; Pedro % ( unday. Buses depart from depart Buses from unday. cell 9-9444-0123, cell cell 9-9146-6548) cell 9-9376-4088) un) hasun) two buses per day to % 8:30am-1pm & 2:30-7pm Mon- 2:30-7pm & 8:30am-1pm ( % % ( ( h on Freire in front of S of front in Freire on cell 9-9647-0948) runs buses to Castro (CH$800, 30 24hr) in the white building near the % h stop ( Alcadia de Mar de Alcadia aturday at noon, butit’s always changing, Getting There & Away 8 65-264-1050;www.busescruzdelsur.cl; S 065 / POP3403 065 / POP9203 Ferries for Isla Quinchao Isla for Ferries at, 2:30-7pm S % Curaco Vélez de % An unexpected treasure lies in wait in the town the first de Vélez, Curaco form of lovely main road from thethe come to along you 9-9647-1610) 9-9647-1610) Isabel Don José H Isla Quinchao % The island of Quinchao, easily ac elongated cessed via a short ferry crossing from Dalca of pasturelands hilly patchwork is a hue, roadpunctuated A good by small villages. of the island and carries you runs the length most popular destina through the island’s cleara On Achao. and Vélez de Curaco tions, spectacular have views you to Chiloé to day, mountains of and the snowcapped the west to the southeast. Northern Patagonia them along the main street. between 6:10am and 1am. Pedestrians go free, but try and time it so you cross with an Achao- bound bus as you’ll need to be on it once you get to the other side. Cars cost CH$5000 (round Boatstrip). also leave here forIsla Mechuque several days per week – the schedule is available at the Montt; fishing dock.Fares generally cost CH$5000 per Tuesdays departures usually are There person. at 1pm, Wednesday and Thursday at 3:30pm and S so it’sbest to check with the Alcadia or with the boat captains directly: Doña Luisa II Doña Luisa 8 There is no bus terminal in Dalcahue. Dalcahue minutes) and Mocopulli (CH$600), for airport ac cess, every 15 minutes between 7am and 8:30pm from a E and Henriquez between Otimarc can also catch buses at various points up and down the main street of Freire. ( Martín 102; S Ancud (CH$1700) and Puerto Montt (CH$6000) leaving at 9:10am and 3:15pm; there’s an extra S on departure 7pm the office on San Martín right next to the church. Buses between Castro and Tenaún (CH$1200, 40 minutes) pass here severaltimes per Catch day.

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There is a Freire near the Copec gas station. 8 taurant plates up excellent steamed fresh plates taurant and fish CH$1500-6800; 5:30pm Sun; Dalca ( for espresso, quiche, sandwiches and great lemon meringue pie on the 2nd floor. but the tea and essential oils are made by local artisans) waterfront spot and an atmospheric winter; crafts shop on the 1ststylish floor (everything Montt 144; Montt h de Piedra Casita (www.facebook.com/artesania.casitadepiedra; teas, wraps and desserts.teas, wraps The upstairs lounge monopolizes the scene in summer. Dalcahue’s bold and beautiful, who come for bold and beautiful, who Dalcahue’s only serious espresso, high-quality the town’s un, reduced hr winter; hr reduced 8pm Sun, to Armas caters on the Plaza de shingled gem (www.refugiodenavegantes.cl; CH$900-4900; snacks standing – but go with your gut. with your standing – but go de Navegantes Refugio prefer No 8 (Camila – Donde Lula), as herprefer No cazuela milcao Locals don’t-miss. sweets – is Dalcalhue’s stalls – run by grandmotherly types who types stalls– run by grandmotherly dish up mains CH$3000-8000; behind the crafts market, this collection of o (www.cocineriasdalcahue.blogspot.cl; best room frames exquisite church views.best room frames best. The cafe is also the town’s adjacent 5 throws, and all come with a terrace, modern terrace, a with come all and throws, The artwork. local quality and bathrooms This new stylish on Plaza de Armas boutique is the best are in town. The rooms hotel five in localextra with cozy beds draped spacious, ( Martín165; de Navagantes Refugio (CH$3000) – make this a good option at theoption at this a good – make (CH$3000) right price. home-cooked dinners of your host, Ceciliaof your dinners home-cooked

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curanto al hoyo, On weekdays, there are frequent buses between Castro and Tenaún (CH$1600, 1½ (CH$1600, Tenaún and Castro between buses frequent are there weekdays, On Hospedaje Mirella Hospedaje The main reason folks come to Curaco 065 / POP3452 TENAÚN onde Werner bus stop at the corner of Av Quarto Centenario and Av Galverino Riveros. Galverino Av and Centenario Quarto Av of at the corner bus stop Werner onde hours, 7:15am to 7pm), fewer on weekends – all stopping in Dalcahue (CH$1200, 40 (CH$1200, in Dalcahue – all stopping on weekends fewer 7pm), to 7:15am hours, Ancud, To minutes). (CH$1000, via Quemchi 1½ hours) at 8:30am and at 3:30pm (CH$2300, Friday to day Baham Casona yellow-with-red-trim the unmissable from depart Buses 30 minutes). her guests enjoy the multicourse meals she prepares (CH$5000 to CH$12,000). She CH$12,000). to (CH$5000 she prepares meals the multicourse enjoy her guests does (CH$60,000 to Isla Mechuque boats can arrange also Mirella bring in that day. fishers idea. a good is always Calling ahead people). minimum four 45 minutes, return, alvarino Riveros; Galvarino in staying it worth makes Network, Agroturismo the of and part the church to next sure about making serious and is cook is an exceptional Mirella The indomitable Tenaún. en churches; its three azure towers will redefine your definition of clergy architecture. architecture. of clergy your definition will redefine towers azure three its en churches; – even travelled less the road for looking if you’re but and do, see to else a lot not There’s and a quirky personality Chilote with rural tempts Tenaún – now is paved though the road ethos. seafaring Tiny Tenaún, 37km northeast from Dalcahue, is rural, but there is a very compelling rea compelling is a very there but is rural, Dalcahue, from northeast 37km Tenaún, Tiny blue stunning The visit. to son Riveros; outstanding architecture – not to mention stupendousviews Chilemainland to across islandsnearby from People day. clear a on come to Achao to sell their wares and pro town. Though the indisput it lacks some of Achao,able charm and stillness Curaco, of too, is a worthwhile stopfor its landmark its spectacular interior) and church (with % When the early-morning fog rolls into the of Achao, 22km southeast of Dalca village no hue, it can be an eerie sight, leaving Chilote are in a remote doubt you seaside Plaza de Armas. Achao is for the fresh oysters served in the res waterfront. along the undesirable taurants down of folks gobbling droves find You’ll There alsois bivalve. oversized Quinchao’s on and around or two a decent restaurant is known. Don’t miss the underground crypt Riveros hero Galvarino of the Pacific of War square! buried right in the Cárdenas – he’s afternoon strolling the streets here, taking and three-story two- in the fascinating or homes and eight shingled wooden nately mills for which the town water traditional ferry dock on Isla Quinchao. A superbly Quinchao. ferry dock on Isla worth well spending an town, it’s tranquil

------(Pla MARKET The Grupo cell 9-9905- 65-266-1345; 65-266-1345; ). % % ( ( aturday at 7am 288 at the corner of (p errano & Ricardo Jara; & Ricardo errano unday. un) alsoun) goes to Puerto 65-266-1143; www. 65-266-1143; 6:30-7am, 10am-1:30pm, 10am-1:30pm, 6:30-7am, % cnr S (

h Marorl Bus Marorl 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri) Queilen Bus Queilen (cnr Miraflores (cnr & Zañartu) is h unday. Santa Maria de Rilán church , one of Chiloé’s Unesco-listed hous Unesco-listed , one of Chiloé’s BancoEstado ATM BancoEstado Information Getting There & Away 8 8 bus terminal bus aturday and 11am on S Feria Municipal Achao Municipal Feria cell 9-7464-3319; cell Rilán’s Rilán’s 10am-4pm Mon, Thu & Fri Nov-Feb) Thu & Fri Mon, 10am-4pm ocated on the Plaza de Armas. % Peninsula de RilánPeninsula de za de Rilán) de za potpourria from fashioned is worship, of es Despite a hardwoods. native of the island’s there isn’t a ton to recent 12-year renovation, blue ceiling is certainlysee, but the dramatic moment. If the church isworth an Instagram on 9-8875-3061.closed, contact Maria www.queilenbus.cl; www.queilenbus.cl; Mon-Fri,3-7pm 10-11am S Montt (CH$7000) Monday to S and at 1pm S 6884) goes to Puerto Montt at 6:30am Monday to S is everywhere, beauty but es raw Chiloé’s remotemore island’s the of some to caping corners is even more poetic. The Peninsula de Rilán is home to a few far-flung top-end beautifully hide and guesthouses that lodges remote among the island’s away themselves and rugged nature. one to (possibly) assist. 8 There is a Delicias and Velesque and a free wi-fi signal at the Turismo de Oficina facebook.com/turismocomunaquinchao; Amunategui 18; L 8 The a block south of the church. Buses run daily to Dalcahue (CH$1400), Castro (CH$1800) and Cu raco de Velez (CH$800) every 15 to 30 minutes from 7am to 8pm. has built a small crafts market on the water. craftsa small built has market water. on the of woolens for a variety enough decent It’s tree magnets wooden fuzzy with and funky else back home nobody – ain’t as leaves wool their fridge! on that have gonna Grupo Artesanal Llingua ( h ArtesanalartisansLlingua, nearbythe from market of Llingua, host a well-stocked Isla cups, hand coffee crafts,woven including only open on bags and breadbaskets. It’s when the ferryhigh-season days comes over somethingspot you If Llingua. you Isla from time another at while window-shopping like listed call the number for some of the year,

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For tours to some of the island’s less less the island’s of some to tours For 290 Shopping

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65-266-1283; Overlooking the bustling jetty (and usu the bustling jetty Overlooking A friendly family home with eight rooms A friendly family CHILOÉ’S TOP CHURCHES TOP CHILOÉ’S Tenaún among our favorites. Tenaún Chiloétnico contact churches, accessible (p when you step inside – the interiors are are inside – the interiors step when you com if your unorthodox completely American or North is European parison and Castro Achao, count We cathedrals. in a similar fashion with a single tower with a single tower in a similar fashion arched side roofs, slanted in the front, shin wooden and attractive entrances but amazing exteriors, boast Some gles. the truly triumphant moment comes and 60 some today, main attractions; gion’s Unesco which are of 16 remain, or so built were Most sites. Heritage World Chiloé once boasted more than 150 than more boasted Chiloé once wooden gorgeous ) ) errano 2; errano errano; at, closed Fri Apr-Nov) Fri closed at, % half-hearted attempt at competing at withhalf-hearted attempt excellent crafts market, Achao Dalcahue’s Achao Municipal Feria Arturo Prat; (Paseo 7 an extensive menu. Try the house-style fishthe house-style an extensive menu. Try and mussels. smothered in cheese, sausage ally a thick blanket of intimidating fog) isfog) blanketthick a ally intimidating of withthis recommended seafood restaurant Mar y Velas (S W is excellent. stew), baked salmon and the like, with fourstew), salmon and the like, baked Everything daily-changing options available. at the fish market across the street.the fish at Think cazuela S procured fresh get no menu – you what’s o (S right on the plaza. It’s kind of like staying at staying kind of like plaza. It’s right on the house. grandma’s CH$9000/18,000, d without bathroom CH$16,000; without bathroom d CH$9000/18,000, W Plaza Hospedaje ( 4 for tinting materials are all elegantly present are all elegantly materials for tinting (in Spanish). material informative ed with products, weavings, stones used plants and products,weavings,

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cocinerías un Jan & Feb, 9:30am- & Feb, Jan Sun 10:30am-1pm at, umbel; Castro’s well-conceived fresh market is well-conceived Castro’s This museum, half a block south from cell 9-5704-3413; cell Opening hours vary, but call Nancy the Nancy but call vary, hours Opening The church is an unconventional visualTheis an unconventional church smeralda 255; smeralda % 1pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm S 9:30am-1pm 1pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, F well-organizeda houses Armas, de Plaza instrumusical relics, collectionHuilliche of farm implements, Chilotements, traditional models, and exhibits boat on thewooden (Panamericana) the best viewpoint forinto town offers Gamboa. Palofitos de Castro Regional Museo (E 6:30pm S winter) but is worth path the beaten a bit off located a trip for its colorful architecture wide and (fresh cheeses, local po of island treats range etc) in a very fish tatoes, arranged pleasant half and orderly fashion. On the 2nd floor, a dozen bus 1B, meals (CH$2500 to CH$5500). Take Riveros. 2 or 4 from the center to Galvarino Mirador Gamboa Puente 2012. Built from cypress and larch wood2012. and 1888, its prominent 25m 1887 between 5. Of note in can be viewed from Ruta tower sculpturethe interior are an all-wood of St paint and columns a demon, with Michael marble. A rudimentaryed to look like land cemeteryscaped garden and adjacent add to here; a small visitors centerthe atmosphere tourism this church better next door affords infrastructure than most. list, who can let on the number we keymaster, 2 (CH$350) from bus shut. Catch in if it’s you which stopsO’Higgins, 50m from the church. José Alcalde Feria Gomez Sandoval Y (Feria Chiloé’s Unesco gems and finished in 1912 to in 1912 finished and gems Unesco Chiloé’s down burned church that an earlier replace an even had replaced church earlier (which down). also burned had that trim. with violent and mauve delight – yellow interior is stun the varnished-wood Inside, if you – ning.day is best on a sunny to visit It as the interior is more enough – are lucky of by the rows illuminated charming when stained-glass windows. de Señora Nuestra Iglesia de Nercón Gracia ( Castroof south 4km Chiloe’s of another is restored churches, in Unesco-recognized ------$$$ $$$

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065 / POP41,600 an Martín; S % % 12:30pm & 3:30-8:30pm Mar-Dec) of neo-Gothic chose a marriage do Provasoli and classical architecture in his design for one of San Francisco, Iglesia the elaborate ( lao, S lao, B&B CH$560/640; s/d $1950/3100, US 1 o de Castro Francisco the dead center of the island, it’s the main the dead center of the island, it’s transportation hub and a perfect for base further afield. exploring attractions boasts enough excellent to be restaurants culinaryconsidered a bonafide destination. estuary its sheltered above on a bluff lined with distinctive opment, comfortableopment, infrastructuretourism recent years, and a touch of trendiness. In culinary from scene has evolved Castro’s nowfast-foodand the city to foodie-frenzy loud and boisterous like some working-classloud and boisterous like towns in Chile, the capital of the archipelago somehow retains its local Chilote character side by side with a dash of modern devel If there is one place in Chiloé could you Castro, where all the call cosmopolitan, it’s of Chiloé are and attractions idiosyncrasies At times City. in the Big nicely packaged San Pedro de Atacama and Torres del Paine. and Torres de Atacama San Pedro Castro % edge of Chiloé’s most important wetlands of Chiloé’s edge be in 2014, Hotels was purchased by Tierra list in a growing coming the latest of remote properties includes that inboutique lodges ( Ws with balconies, ecofriendly amenities and ecofriendly amenities with balconies, boastrooms deluxe art.local High-ceilinged tubs and loft lounges. Jacuzzi Chiloé Tierra shingled getaway greets guests with a cozyshingled getaway with a copper flume. Built lounge fireplace setting, standard the natural to blend into all come lazy sleep-ins and rooms beckon ( co; 15-room retreat with dramatic tucked-away views the Castro fjord, this traditionally over 4 Hotel Territorial OCIO

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Following a Chilote design aesthet Following ) 65-253-0053; 65-253-1008; 65-263-1622; cell 9-6570-5950; cell 65-253-2247; Barros Arana Arana 127; Barros

% % % % % smallish rooms with stylish touches likesmallish rooms with stylish The throws from Dalcahue. wool fjord-view sleeping you’re feel like you rooms make 3rd-floora great wetlands, and there’s over cafe with postcard-perfect views. Hostel Palafito 2008 and was the catalyst for turning the for turning 2008 and was the catalyst more for pay You into a hip destination. city lockers)(and quality the but here, dorm a break with great the difference, outweighs viewsfasts, and a cabin-cool feel dreamy throughout. 1326 Palafito ( Riquelme 1326; iW ic carved entirely from this woods, ( Riquelme 1210; nesto CH$16,000/35,000/48,000; Gamboa on Palafitos hostel sitting packer revolutionized Castro when it opened in bathrooms (by Chiloé (by bathrooms standards), wel a parking. A and off-site coming atmosphere down the hill has all private second location breakfast. No bathrooms. del Mar Palafito ( 567; Montt all the stylish minimalist, seven-room hotel along Castro’s northern stretch of ter pleasant portant bonus: all rooms have with full or partialraces sea views, ready for feet to kick your you up on while enjoying and of Carmenere. Cozy showers a bottle bright well. as edge it a stylish out give Cordillera Hostal ( na 175; CH$15,000; without bathroom son owner down? Thedragging you firecracker with you hub will smother this traveler’s at yourand put a big smile on motherly love get sea views, some bath large face. You’ll ones upstairs), newly renovated rooms (two beds, electriccomfy TV. and cable heaters Mirador Hospedaje ( cl; CH$15,000/25,000; room choices, Barros Arana One of the better has some seaside views, fantasticMirador

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S Chiloé Natural Feb) 65-263-5254; 65-253-4973, cell 9-6319-7388; cell 65-253-4973, 65-263-3888; Also rents camping gear and bikes. gear Also rents camping % h % % terrace with BBQ.terrace are hotel-quality Upstairs with local art. rooms hung Peppered private with rescued transis seats, antiques (theater the hostel represents one of Cas tor radios), ratios. best style-for-value tro’s stylish, hostel-like yet family friendly. The yet hostel-like friendly. family stylish, four-bed dormsground floor houses two and private heating central with lockers, and seaview a communal kitchen bathrooms, ( me 1236; $45,000/55,000; yet of balances: affordable a number strikes tional foods. 4 Waiwen Palafito z Costumbrista Festival ( as tradi with folk music and dance, as well as Mechuque (from CH$60,000 including as Mechuque Chiloé (from Nacional lunch) and Parque also the CH$55,000 including lunch). It’s in Castro. Austral for Naveira office official ( 498; buco winter) tours to nearby islands suchizes multiday and a Unesco-listed-churches tour (three and a Unesco-listed-churches Staff including lunch). CH$240,000 days; of each client. plant a tree in the name Pehuén Turismo Castro and further (from CH$55,000 afield people) includeper person based on two in Chepu dawn at kayak the magnificent a Chiloé(CH$265,000 per person; must!) tremely friendly, environmentally conscious environmentally tremely friendly, tours andagency specializing in sea-kayak excursionsoutside-the-box (cooking classes, trips around knife forging). Half-/multiday Mon- o ( natural.com; fauna-focused trips; and cultural nature trips obscure more on churches Chiloé’s of some to secondarythe less trampled islands. right things in the right places. It runs great It right places. in the right things and options) e-bike (with mountain-biking Chiloé, Par Nacional trips to Parque hiking flora-and- and nearby islands; que Tantauco This (fluenttrilingual recommended highly and German)English agency doing the is

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mains CH$7200-10,000;

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Drinking Nightlife &

Patagonia Palafito 65-263-0137; 65-253-3866; There’s a long list of wines and regional There’s It’s smallish (chef Lorna Muñoz grew smallish (chef up Lorna Muñoz It’s Reserve ahead – it’s small. Also home to small. Also Reserveahead – it’s 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & S 1am Fri to 6pm-midnight Mon-Thu, % % beers to fuel the foodie fun. Reserve ahead. 6 o (www.facebook.com/palafitopatagonia; (braised smoked pork), a loaded smoked (braised pork, soup (smoked murta in the house!) so reserve ahead. Mercadito ( 210; Montt Mon- 7-11pm & gas for derfullyhavens a is spot whimsical calling on the wares takes tronomes. Creative of local farmers produce outstanding dishes, pu yellow-pepper and from tuna with potato with chickpearee to coriander-crusted hake oysters.local as isn’tSeafood well as curry, served and tables are set out of season with proper Laguiole cutlery. groundbreaking groundbreaking in heartierspecializes many and game, dishes in cast-iron skillets. arrive of which Isla. best handicrafts Pura shop, Castro’s Travesía Restaurant ( ravesia; 11pm Mon- historiana chef) and Castro’s are behind menu lengthy mostIts restaurant. authentic resurrectedfeatures trans island recipes formed into gourmet Chilote cuisine that on staunchly local ingredientsleans heavily (algae like include ple). Favorites Cervecera Casa Pioneras (www.facebook.com/pioneraschiloe; h pioneering local femaleto its name, two craft first brewpub, brewers opened Castro’s The retreatcozy supremely a 11 Nercón. in Montt 651; Montt Thisvery wonderful cafe-gallery coffee takes are and Blue Bottle seriously – Intelligentsia best, along served, of North America’s two Are Lama Santiago-roasted with We and – and is a pristine spot for a caffeine Four jolt (espresso, V60, Chemex), light bites and postcard lit lounge views from its naturally in set along Castro’s It’s and breezy patio. northerncreasingly stylish

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E CAF CHILE ION ION FUS In tiny In CHILE an Martín ES ANDWICH S Blanco 215; Blanco S

1-9:30pm Mon- 1-9:30pm un, Sun, 8-10pm at, S mains CH$7000- h ncalada 159; ncalada

9am-9:30pm Mon-

h

The newer, bigger The newer, at, 1-4pm Sun) 1-4pm at, ) S W Formerly known as the Formerly Blanco E Blanco )

www.rucalafputemun.cl; mains CH$7900-12,500;

10am-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am- Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight

www.facebook.com/marycanela W (hake) with pesto and de (hake) at; This arty lunch spot offers

) (an algae) and more elabo h

W

1-3pm & 8-10pm Mon- & 8-10pm 1-3pm merluza rnesto Riquelme 1212; rnesto h E

at & Sun;

cochayuyo Eating sandwiches CH$3200-2500; sandwiches There’s a whole lotta culinary a whole lotta coming love There’s Cazador Putemún Rucalaf

cell 9-9579-7571; cell 65-253-1770; at) % % new partner – have managed to improve this to improve managed new partner – have excellent and innovative Mar y Canela, the Mar excellent and innovative same chef – and her wine-savvy restaurant’s 14,000; winter; hr in shorter ( chiloe; rustic-refined atmosphere. o hydrated tomato, free-range escabeche-style free-range tomato, hydrated – is served in achicken by delightful staff tious contemporary Chilean fare – excellent ceviche, one of Chiloé’s destination restaurants. In a In restaurants. destination Chiloé’s one of colorful room, scrump and cozy cabin-like Putamún (7km outside Castro on the way Putamún de Rilán and Dalcahue) is to the Peninsula 3.6 de la Ruta a Rilán; de la Ruta 3.6 Tue- 4pm & 7:30-10:30pm o ( rate meat and fish dishes are also available. dishes are also available. and fish meat rate and Sunday. Bar open until 3am Saturday CH$5500) of Chileanized pastas like ravioli CH$5500) of Chileanized ravioli pastas like with choices per day, including an appetizer and choices per day, An à la cartejuice. menu (mains CH$4500 to 4pm S set-menuthree exceptional home-cooked (www.hostalomera.cl; menu CH$3500; locally produced provisions. Hostalomera cakes and pies (CH$1000 to 3000). The3000). to (CH$1000 pies and at cakes place to pick upgood tached organic shop is a quaint cafe is a solid bet for espresso as well sweet-tooth-satiatingas sandwiches, salads or Fri, 10am-9:30pm S 10am-9:30pm Fri, on this street, locations this of two and better Blanco Cafe (www.facebook.com/cafeblancochiloe; CH$4100-5000; sandwiches becoming a gastronomic revelation! three options from a long listthree options of 18 ingredients all piled on toasted bread, It’s and nine sauces. en, beef, pork, smoked pork or mushrooms), pork, smoked en, beef, by choosing sandwich own build your then S out of this divey joint near the mu sandwich Choosenicipal bus terminal. base (chick your (www.facebook.com/sanguchepatito/; 718; 5 Patito Sanguche

EatinCastrog

Chiloé 292 Chiloé ShoppinCastro g 293 - -

Union Cruz Cruz ago HOURS 1½ 16 10 7 36 1½ 13 3¾ 2 it on the right Queilen Bus Queilen Terminal de Buses aturday, 7am). 65-263-5254; www.65-263-5254; COST (CH$) 2000 25,000 6200 2000 1500 31,000 12,000 9500 50,000 cell 9-9887-4129) and % ( % ( 9am-1:15pm & 3-6:30pm Mon-Fri, an Martín), has the most services cell 9-6668-3531) offer the most h S 65-263-5152; www.busescruzdelsur. 600-526-2000; www.latam.com; www.latam.com; 600-526-2000; ( % % % ( ( ( an Martín 486), focuses on transportation to 65-263-2594; www.queilenbus.cl) and an antiago Starting sample fares and times are as follows: Buses Ojeda The second terminal, the main depot of eat-only fares cost CH$12,700. Vehicles cost unday at midnight in January and February. January February. and in midnight at unday DESTINATION DESTINATION Ancud Concepción Montt Puerto Quellón Quemchi S Temuco Valdivia Arenas Punta % BOAT BUS Naviera Austral Naviera navieraustral.cl; Chacabuco 498) runs sum on departing Chaitén to/from ferries mer S S CH$69,000. (Tuesday, Thursday and S office representing Cruz del Sur and others also operates out of here to most destinations of importance, including Punta Arenas (daily at 6:20am December to March, Mondays only outside summer). Express Chiloé Nacional Parque and Cucao to departures on the west coast, with 20 per day between them (CH$200, 7:45am to 8pm). S side for the most outstanding views of L Cucao. Buses Ojeda also runs a daily trip to Muelle de las Almas (CH$7000 return, 10:30am, hours).1¾ Sur del cl; S the main Chilote cities, Quellón and Ancud, and Arenas Punta services, including long-distance the rest of the country via commercial flights. LATAM Blanco 180; 10am-1:15pm Sat) flies from Santiago via Puerto Montt five days a week on a varying schedule in high season (four days in low season). Centrally located Castro is the major hub for bus traffic on Chiloé. There are two main bus station, rural The terminals. Municipal to smaller destinations around the island and Mocop to services. Buses long-distance some ulli (CH$800), Dalcahue (CH$800), Chonchi (CH$800), Isla Quinchao (CH$1800) and Tenaún (CH$1600) all leave from here. (

- - - - BAR EE COFF MARKET nglish. amboa amboa 8am-1pm, 8am-1pm, h errano 325; errano ur 1826; 1826; ur

S 10am-9pm Jan Jan 10am-9pm h

65-263-3805; www. 65-263-3805; ATM on the ATM corner panish and E 65-254-7706; www. 65-254-7706; % smeralda; errano. ( Castro’s waterfront Castro’s % ( The best proper bar in (www.hospitalcastro.gov. A modified van running van A modified at) (www.correos.cl; O’Higgins O’Higgins (www.correos.cl; ncalada & E & ncalada Banco de Chile de Banco ncalada and S and ncalada at) at) 65-253-2501; www.conaf.cl; G www.conaf.cl; 65-253-2501; 11:30am-9pm) 9am-1:30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 3-6pm & Mon-Fri, 9am-1:30pm % 9am-1pm & 2-5:45pm Mon-Fri) The h ( h

h Getting There & Away Information Shopping 8 8 9am-6pm Jan & Feb, to 6pm Mon-Fri Mar-Dec) 6:30pm-1am Tue-Thu, 7:30pm-3:30am Fri, Fri, 7:30pm-3:30am Tue-Thu, 6:30pm-1am AIR official Chilean national-parks department has department has national-parks Chilean official a limited amount of info in S Turistica Información visitchiloe.cl; Plaza de Armas; Hospital de Castro de Hospital cl; Freire 852) Conaf 424; Armas and a E Blanco of CorreosChile 388; S 12:30pm sweaters, caps, gloves, basketry caps, gloves, sweaters, and liquors. 8 There are numerous around ATMs the Plazade but be wary here – much of the merchan dise is secretly imported from China, India, hawk vendors find You’ll and Ecuador. Peru selectioning a good ponchos and of woolen 7 Artesanal Feria (Lillo; biggest, Artesanal is by far the island’s Feria on caffeine serves some of Castro’s best es serves Castro’s of some caffeine on can and staff presso. The Peruvian beans are variations. whip up all the usual drink (cnr Blanco E Blanco (cnr winter) hr in shorter 8 Castro’s Aerodrómo Mocopulli, located 20km north of town, has finally connected Chiloé with Parque Tantauco Office Tantauco Parque S Panamericana parquetantauco.cl; h & Feb, to 6pm Brochures Mar-Dec) and maps. wines, and some bar grub to soak it up. wines, and some bar grub La Cafeta Castro – named after Chiloé’s unit of meas Castro after – named Chiloé’s a wide range – offers urement for potatoes to CH$7500), craftof cocktails (CH$3000 sparklingand CH$4500) to (CH$3000 beers Almud Bar (www.facebook.com/almudbar; h S 8:30pm-3:30am rarely seen in Chile seen rarely (Rogue, Goose Island) a are The Belgians. of a handful and IPAs red ale the imperial progress, but in work connoisseurs. should please varieties brewed all tap are on in-house, brews includes US menu bottle the while

------$ $

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293 ENTURE ADV GUES pW GRO CAMP

Simple dm/s/d/tr incl dm/s/d/tr

ector Chanqúin; ector Can arrange (S r per person without r per person

on-site that is not on-site that ) 9am-6:30pm Dec 15-Mar, 15-Mar, Dec 9am-6:30pm cafe campsites per person person per campsites

W www.palafitotrip.cl; h

Huentemó;

ector Chanqúin; ector www.hostelpalafitocucao.cl;

This equally chic sister hotel of ) for crashing at Huentemó. Contact Huentemó. at for crashing Sleeping Eating&

Hostel Cucao Palafito 65-297-1164; cell 9-9884-9552; cell cell 9-9787-7319; cell Theresmall a is % % % mains CH$1500-7900; mains 14; Apr-Dec 10am-6pm as bike rentals. as bike 4 Camping y Cabañas del Parque (www.parquechiloe.cl; CH$35,000; from cabins CH$5000, camping and cabin complexwell-equipped beyondabout 100m lies the visitors center and into the park. The cabins are surprising furnishings, running wa ly nice, with stylish modthe all and firewood showers, hot ter, Depending cons. Dorms are low season only. Cor Forest on whether or not the National (Conaf)poration secures it a concessionaire, not be up and running. may or may collection!) and Doña Sonia. (Keep yourcollection!) (Keep Sonia. Doña and ticket is a ticket – there inspector the on or so 2.8km another drive here, From hike.) and then hike(CH$2000); parking lot to the 2.3kmanother signed,rudimentarily along a high often-muddyup-and-down, In path. visit, so con 700 people per day season up to to avoid other times of year at sider visiting Buses Ojeda (p queues. the lengthy de las Castro a daily trip to Muelle also runs CH$7000 return).Almas (10:30am, Trip Palafito ( Hostel) Cucao Palafito Chanqúin, kayaking,intrekking and riding horseback Chiloé, as well Nacional and around Parque Cucao, offers the bestmost and comfortableCucao, offers head your whetherCucao, in beds lay you rooms or in private in one of the 11 stylish the equally fashionable six-bed dorm. Facili ties include a cozy common area, a kitchen, outstandingwith terrace wraparound a and views and a hot tub. only great for fuelling up for a hike but nor a hike for fuelling up for only great mally handles reception as well. Chucao Hospedaje ( CH$10,000) incl breakfast bathroom pedaje on the number provided Guenuman Jorge for reservations. o ( S Cucao, no Rural CH$16,000/45,000/55,000/75,000; breakfast piW on the Lago situated hotels, Palafito Castro’s

------PIER - tick Parque Parque CH$1500; www.conaf.

racia de atorre) leave is located only 30km is located tree. Within the park the Within tree. 65-297-0724; Punta Pirulil; Punta eñora de G %

9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, to Mon-Thu, 9:30am-7:30pm (

tepú h

8:30am-7pm Dec-Feb, 9am-5:30pm Dec-Feb, 8:30am-7pm (cnr O’Higgins (cnr & L h ( Sun Apr-Nov)

in Rahue, 7km south of Cucao, buses un Dec-Mar, 9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, to to 9:30am-5:30pm Mon-Thu, Sun Dec-Mar,

amboa and Balmaceda near the north the near Balmaceda and amboa Sights Activities &

Getting Around Getting 8 Muelle de las Almas Muelle de las adult/child Chilean CH$2000/1000, foreigner foreigner CH$2000/1000, Chilean adult/child

cell 9-9592-1286; cell To reach this far-flung dock to nowhere reach this far-flung To Visitors are at the mercy of Pacific storms, mercythe at are Visitors Pacific of 8:30am-7pm Dec-Feb, 9am-5:30pm Mar-Nov) Dec-Feb, 8:30am-7pm

% Parque Nacional Chiloé owners, Don Orlando (don’t miss his fossil et office Mar-Nov) where you’ll admission to the land your pay on your own, you’llon your to the need to drive transportafterlife,the to theyor mournwill in the area for all eternity. According to legend, wandering souls must wandering According to legend, for Tempilcahue, call to a passing boatman, cinematic landscape and seemingly disap landscape and cinematic of Cucao. into the Bay a 70m cliff pears off by architect Marcelo Orellana. The by architect curved Marcelo along an outrageously boardwalk spans 17m Shrouded in folklore and Huilliche mytholo Shrouded in folklore and Huilliche ‘Dock of Souls’ was built in 2007 Chiloé’s gy, o ( h 1 wear, woolen socks and a decent rain jacket. rain decent a and socks woolen wear, repellent is not a bad idea either. Insect and anyone planning more than an hour- planning and anyone foot water-resistant long walk should have fall at Cucao, the park’s main epicenter nearepicenter main park’s the Cucao, at fall is 2200mm, the southern Chanquín sector, so expect The lots of rain. mean annual rain the management of campsites within the of campsites the management park. are a number of Huiliche indigenous com indigenous are a number of Huiliche with are involved munities, some of which of the contortedthe of easternthe along perimeter situated and ing from 110 different types of bird, to foxes types ing from 110 different smallest pudú (the world’s and the reclusive shadowy forestsdeer), which inhabits the west of Chonchiwest of Castro. west and 54km The Chilote park teems with wildlife, rang 6pm Fri- 4:30pm Fri- cl; CH$4000/2000; tive evergreen forest,tive the 430-sq-km Chiloé Nacional Running back from the pounding Pacific the pounding Pacific back from Running extensive standscoastline, na over of and

west corner of Plaza de Armas. out to Iglesia Nuestra S Nercón, G from 8 Castro is tinyand walkable. If you are heading

GParqettinueg N Aacionaroundl Chiloé

Chiloé 294 Chiloé IPnformationarque Tantauco 295

------adult/

- www.parque

stero E

65-263-3805; % ( – created and ownedand created – ). Spending time here usu

Km 35 de la ruta Chonchi-Que Km 35 de la ruta

xpress and Buses Oejda, have ur 1826, Castro; Sur 1826, Panamericana www.islabrujalodge.com;

nion E Getting There & Away un is Apr-Nov) about 1km past the bridge 8 S (Chilean myrtle) forest. myrtle) (Chilean , a massive sideways ship forms the recep ship forms sideways a massive , monito del monte otters, Darwin and pudú (small Andeanotters, foxes mam largest as both the world’s deer), as well mal (blue whales) and its smallest marsupial ( with with nature, are isolated ally means you per day. access limited to just eight trekkers (CH$2000, 7:45am to 8pm). The last bus back to Castro leaves Cucao at 6:30pm. Both bus com panies, U entrance. park the near kiosks ticket small Parque Tantauco hot spots 25 biodiversity One of the world’s Conservationby identified International, Tantauco Parque tantauco.cl; child CH$3500/500) by Chilean and recently business magnate re-elected and run president Sebastián Piñera, 1180-sq-km – is a private by his foundation reservenature of Quellón encompassing west The130km of trails. park is home to native Fri- from Cucao with park info in five languages. 8 Cucao is 54km from Castro and 34km west of Chonchi via a bumpy gravel road, passable in all but the most inclement weather. There are 20 daily bus departures from Castro to Cucao S

) www.espejodeluna.cl; - $

arrayán $$ cell 9-7732-3226; cell AN AN AN AN % (red pW ( mains

nalca un CHILE S CHILE luche This cozy, This cozy, mains CH$6500-

cell 9-9040-5888; cell r incl breakfast from CH$93,000, cabañas CH$85,000, treehouse treehouse CH$85,000, cabañas CH$93,000, from r incl breakfast

ector Chanqúin; ector . Good desserts too. % (

(www.conaf.cl; , homespun hospitality abounds, whether by Francisco and Marie or and Francisco by whether abounds, hospitality homespun , ) Isla Bruja Lodge Bruja Isla (clams) and www.facebook.com/lagranjade

parrilla 10am-10pm, shorter hr in winter; hr in shorter 10am-10pm, ector Quilque; ector S

h piW

macha 10am-6pm, reduced hr winter) hr reduced 10am-6pm, with Espejo de Luna Espejo de Camino Rural Cucao, S Cucao, Camino Rural r incl breakfast CH$122,000-205,000; r incl breakfast

h

At Hidden away on the shores of the Palidad estuary southwest of Queilén, 15km or so from from or so 15km Queilén, of southwest estuary the Palidad of on the shores Hidden away Information 8 Conaf visitor center Cocineria Cocineria 9-9794-6594; cell 9-9297-7160; cell A lovely couple runs what is easily Cucao’s is easily Cucao’s couple runs what A lovely The daily-changing menu focuses on local 9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Thu, to 6pm Fri- QUEILÉN private outdoor hot tub, hidden away in an hidden away tub, hot outdoor private of various shapes and sizes are spread across 3 hectares, connected by wooden walkways walkways wooden by connected 3 hectares, across spread are sizes and shapes various of ‘the wise such as Each has a Mapudungun name, for grip. fishing nets in recycled wrapped tuck them could and solitude romance seeking Those etc. and the lovers’ ‘the family’ men’, visit the supremely to except air, up for without coming a week for in the latter away selves two secluded palofitos de bosque (treehouses!) offer more privacy. more offer (treehouses!) de bosque palofitos secluded two ilén; bungalows few A Queilén. from 7km eco-getaway, cozy an extremely of tion and restaurant their domesticated sheep Torpé (abandoned at birth and raised here). Hiking and moun Hiking and here). at birth and raised (abandoned Torpé sheep their domesticated a it the home give throughout Hardwoods here. from possible are excursions tain-biking tub hot the outdoor from dolphins in the estuary see can and you feel cabin-in-the-woods ride right who with sailors, popular It’s and bikes). along with kayaks (included in the price and cabaña two-bedroom new A with Francisco. who hit the trails bikers, and mountain up, Ruta 5, a young Chilean-American couple have turned their cozy home into a wonderful and a wonderful home into cozy turned their have couple Chilean-American a young 5, Ruta At getaway. tasteful Queilén; de Comuna Paildad, CH$100,000; For the peace and quiet of rural lodgings in striking distance of Parque Nacional Chiloe, Nacional Chiloe, Parque of distance striking in lodgings rural of and quiet the peace For choice. is an excellent Queilen seaside ) % % 8 The h 4:30pm to Mon-Thu, 9:30am-5:30pm Dec-Mar, (giant Chilean rhubarb), sea kelp küchen,(giant Chilean rhubarb), sea kelp cazuela pork stew. algae) smoked with an artsy, hardwood-heavy dining room hardwood-heavy with an artsy, benches andgussied up with wool-draped local textiles. produce: think strawberry juice with traditional, fireplace-heated restaurant on restaurant fireplace-heated traditional, hungryLago Cucao beckons adventurers ( 9500; sive dining-room sive o Morelia Tradiciones spot where everything from the pisco sours Chileanof versions staples sophisticated to in-house. Octopus,are made from scratch and beefshrimp, fresh fish dishes are chased by the mas wines in a room warmed by good notuco; CH$7500-9500; W a welcoming best in town proper, restaurant El Arrayán (

------$ $ $

),

Cruz Cruz AFOOD AFOOD costan costan H SH SPANI SE 8pm-4am congrio ES ANDWICH sandwiches sandwiches 9am- unday at h S (Juan

un) sailsun) to h mains CH$4500- at, 1-8:30pm Sun; 1-8:30pm at, S arcia on the

For a dash of lo a dash For , salmon, ) W

65-268-2207; www. ómez G Banco de Chile de Banco 65-268-1284; www.buses 65-268-1284; Jorge Vivar 145; Vivar Jorge is a good bet is a good first as your 8:30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am- Mon-Fri, 8:30am-10pm at, 3-6:30pm S % merluza

S ( % h (

tapas CH$2800-8000; tapas

If you spend one night in Quellón,in night one spend you If curanto ) 9am-11:30pm Mon- 9am-11:30pm W h

at, 10am-4pm Sun; 10am-4pm at,

at; Getting There & Away Information S 8 8 , this welcoming seafooder has been feed welcoming this , A long-running standby along the or around the bus station, especially at night, night, at especially station, bus the around or ) For cash, there is a Austral Naviera aturday at 11pm throughout the Prices year. unday of each month). Passenger seats cost adrilleros 315) on the main road through town. Chaitén on Thursday at 3am and on S 6pm throughout the year (except the second S CH$13,000 and vehicles cost CH$71,000. It sails to Puerto Chacabuco on Wednesday and S are CH$17,450 for a seat and CH$141,000 for a vehicle. The trip takes 28 hours. Don’t wander west of G era outsiders. harass to tend people drunken when L 8 Buses to Castro (CH$2000, two hours, every 30 minutes, 6am to 7:30pm) leave from the new Terminal Sur del cruzdelsur.cl; Pedro Aguirre Cerda 052). There are also services to Puerto Montt (CH$8000, 4½ hours, 6am to 6:20pm) and Temuco (CH$13,000, eight hours, 6:50am, noon, 5:15pm). 355; Montt Pedro navieraustral.cl; 1pm Mon- & 3-7pm Mon- secretlocal this at be should it genu a by run house, a residential black ine Galician. Inside excellent drinks are served tapas and in this too cool for its address. way bar that’s Leo El Chico 325; Montt Pedro (Costanera 10,500; W era ing hungry its red-cothed tables for sailors at Theyears. also an exten or last Chilote meal, but there’s ( menu of fish sive and meat. shellfish 8 taller travellers, El Chico Leo is a comfortable travellers, taller budgetenough choice. Mitos Sandwichería (www.mitoschiloe.cl; CH$4000-9000; S 10pm one street this charming restaurant cal color, the waterfront hard is dressed in cozy above accents. Patrons and wool-trimmed woods area open-kitchen seating a large, into settle a gaggle chopping,and watch of women stir for an extenring and seasoning ingredients sandwiches. menu of huge sive Nos Taberna 150; (O’Higgins

------r - -

$$ $$

ref EL HOT EL HOT guest Despite Costanera Costanera )

pW

If you’re just off you’re If ). From Inío, you’ll Inío, ). From ) www.parquetantauco.

s/d incl breakfast from incl breakfast s/d 291 www.parquetantauco.cl; in Inío, a fascinating in Inío,

) and a wonderfula and www.hotelpatagoniainsular.cl; W ). piW

r per person without bathroom without bathroom r per person [email protected];

293

65-263-3805; 65-263-3805; % adrilleros 1737; adrilleros r with/without bathroom incl breakfast breakfast incl bathroom with/without r (

%

(

Sleeping Eating &

Inío;

65-268-1567; 65-268-1610; If you come in on the ferry and have had come in on the ferryIf you and have For more information, visit the the park’s park’s visit the the information, more For from transfer reach Chaiguata, a private To Along the route, there are six basic six basic are there route, the Along 065 / POP21,823

% % Quellón being cramped, full of grandmotherly frou grandmotherly of full cramped, being to pose a challenge frou and with ceilings that Pedro Montt 325; Montt Pedro CH$18,000/32,000; s/d CH$12,000, Leo El Chico Hotel ( from the center. by any means, but feels a world away from away means, but feels a world by any mostandfriendly modern, – town in beds ride a CH$1500 taxi perfectly agreeable. It’s tion, with 29 rooms perched above town withtion, with 29 rooms perched above not luxurious It’s views the bay. wooded over a cranky boat ride and need a considerable boat a cranky op finest comfort this is Quellón’s upgrade, Av Juan L Av CH$62,000/68,000; Patagonia Insular Patagonia ( 4 sentiment about the place makes Quellón asentiment about the place makes get-in, get-out sort of town. enough traveling for a day, there are some there for a day, enough traveling drunken-sailor but a general excellent eats, see coming or going from the ferry from the see coming or going to Chaitén. na Hwy, also known as Hwy 5) and a salmon na Hwy, is for the most Quellón part an un epicenter, to only likely town, one you’re sophisticated While it’s the southern terminus for one of While it’s (the Panamerica highways great the world’s % high season only) to Quellón (per personhigh season only) to Quellón priority. given CH$10,000) – locals are mum two passengers with luggage) or chance passengers mum two (in boat a government-subsidized on a seat – try (p Chiloe Natural need to charter a plane (CH$250,000, maxi Castro is your only option (CH$100,000, 2½ only option (CH$100,000, Castro is your with luggage)hours, maximum four people Castro office (p Castro office end (Inío) which cost per site for CH$15,000 end (Inío) up to four people. the trek ends. There are also two camp Therethe trek ends. two are also beginning (Chaiguata) the andgrounds at CH$70,000/60,000; of Chiloé where bottom the at village fishing house cl; ugios CH$15,000) per person

SQuellóleepinng & Eating

Chiloé 296 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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