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US $5.95 • Can $7.95 Display until June 30th Celebrating the art of 1:48 modeling Issue #20 May/June 2005 Vol. 4, No. 3 Publisher Joe Giannovario Features [email protected] 4 Scratchbuilding an N&W Steam-Era Caboose Art Director Jaini Giannovario Joe Giannovario built this classic caboose in styrene. [email protected] 12 N&W Diesel-Era Class CF Cabs Editor Variations on a theme. Photos of Richard Howard’s CF cabs. Brian Scace [email protected] 17 Building a Small O Scale Layout — Part 3 Mike Culham starts handlaying track on the new GCR. Advertising Manager Jeb Kriigel 24 Painting and Lettering a B&O Baggage Car [email protected] Tips and techniques for a fancy paint job by Ed Bommer. Contributors 28 Traingate Ted Byrne Need to get into the layout? Phil Opielowski may have the answer. Gene Deimling Bobber Gibbs 43 A Mountain Climbing Railroad in O Scale Carey Hinch A design for a large layout by George Muller. Hobo D. Hirailer Jace Kahn 46 Some of the Best from O Scale West Roger C. Parker Photos from OSW by Jim Ferreira. Neville Rossiter 50 OST 2K5 Digital Photo Contest Subscription Rates: 6 issues US - Standard Mail Delivery US$30 Get all the rules and see the prizes. US - First Class Delivery (1 year only) US$40 53 Overhauling the Atlas 89' Flatcar Canada/Mexico US$50 Overseas US$75 Gene Clemens and Carey Hinch team up to modify these cars for more Visa, MC, AMEX & Discover accepted to-scale appearance and “Twin 45” operation. Call 610-363-7117 during Eastern time business hours Dealers write for terms. Advertisers write for information Departments or visit our website. 13 Easements for the Learning Curve – Brian Scace O Scale Trains ISSN 1536-9528 www.oscalemag.com 14 The Modern Image - Carey Hinch Published bimonthly (6 times a year) by O Scale Trains Magazine 21 The Workshop – Neville Rossiter PO Box 238, Lionville PA 19353-0238 © 2005 OST All Rights Reserved 22 Narrow Minded – Bobber Gibbs Printed in the U.S.A. 34 Traction Action – Roger C. Parker Contributors: O Scale Trains welcomes your feature articles, photos, and drawings. Such material 36 Product News & Reviews should be sent to the above address for possible publi- cation. If we accept, you will be notified immediately. For more information concerning article preparation 40 Fine Scale Modeling – Gene Deimling guidelines, please send an SASE to the above address and request our “Guide For Authors” or visit our web- 48 The Good Old Days – Jace Kahn site at: www.oscalemag.com. 51 Reader Feedback – Letters to the Editor Cover: A pair of Great Northern Y1 electrics brought a second place prize for electrics to Rick Piper of Portland, 57 Confessions of a HiRailer – Hobo D. Hirailer Oregon at O Scale West. See more OSW photos on page 46. Photo courtesy of Jim Ferreira and O Scale West. 59 Advertiser Index Centerspread: “Missabe Mammoth” — A giant Yellowstone 60 Buy-Sell-Trade Ads locomotive rests on a siding after pulling a long string of iron ore cars to the loading facility. Business as usual on the DM&IR. 60 Events Listing Diorama modeling and photography by K. Jeb Kriigel. Loco and caboose by Precision Scale Co. 62 Observations – Joe Giannovario OST is a proud Member of the Model Railroad Industry Association May/June ’05 - O Scale Trains • Scratchbuilding an N&W Steam Era Caboose Prototype photo by August A. Thieme Text & model photos by Joe Giannovario Drawings by Carey Hinch Introduction to build this model, and that included There are a lot of Norfolk & Western my figuring out how to accomplish each steam engines floating around in O Scale, step, plus the photography and jotting both in 2- and 3-Rail, yet no one has mass- down notes. I like using styrene because produced an economical steam-era N&W the construction moves quickly and you caboose to go with these engines. There can really see the progress. have been several brass imports (Sunset, A Bit of History and Division Point, and two forthcom- The N&W used several different class- ing from Kohs and Weaver) as well as es of cabooses during its steam era. The a kit (offered first by Quality Craft, then class I’ve chosen is CF, a wood sided cab Gloorcraft). The brass cabs are not cheap with a steel underframe. N&W built 381 Fig. 1 and the kits are hard to find although they of these classic wooden cabooses starting show up on Ebay now and again. in 1914 and used them up through 1959. While I have several of the brass and This class was numbered from 518000 kit-based cabs, I could still use more. through 518380. The unique details of I decided to scratchbuild a Class CF this caboose are its cupola integrated wood-side caboose and tell you how I into the main sides of the body, slightly did it. By the way, I’m not going to give offset from center and no end windows every single dimension for every part I in the main body other than those in the made. In most cases, I scaled the dimen- end doors. The N&W classes CG and CH sions off the drawings with calipers or steel cabooses are almost exact copies of Fig. 2 the CF in design with steel sides and end 1 a scale rule and transferred that to the ⁄8” thick basswood cut to length (scale windows in the CH. 1 1 plastic stock used. You’ll have to do 29 ⁄2’ L x 9 ⁄2’ W) and laminate a piece of the same. What’s important here is that The roofs on the CF cabs were wood, 0.020” styrene to one side with Testors the model “look” right rather than “be” covered in canvas and then coated with Cement. This will be the underside of the exactly on the money. Also, I built this an asphalt waterproofing. Eventually, floor. Clamp and set aside to dry (Fig. 1). with the average modeler in mind. The many of these cabs were rebuilt with ply- Next, lay out the sides on 0.040” tools I used were the most basic that any wood sheathed sides and steel roofs, but scribed siding (Fig. 2). The dimensions are modeler should have. I purchased all my that would take them into the Diesel era. I scaled from the drawing and transferred building materials at a local, non-train, decided to stay with the steam-era design. to the plastic siding using a mechanical hobby shop. Decals, trucks, couplers and As delivered, cabs were painted a bright pencil and a scale rule. Once the draw- brake rigging were mail-ordered from the red with white lettering, black handrails ing is transferred, scribe the outline and appropriate vendors listed. Paints were and end platforms, and brown roofs. snap the sides from the main sheet. purchased at a local hobby shop and a Okay, let’s begin. Scribe the centerline between the Basic Body local Pep Boys auto parts store. There is cupolas and snap the sides in half. Do not We’ll start by making the floor. Use really nothing exotic used here. There is remove the excess material around the a Materials and Resources List at the end cupola just yet. Tape the two sides togeth- of this article. It took me about 30 hours • O Scale Trains - May/June ’05 er (back-to-back) to make sure the win- Scratchbuilding an N&W Steam Era Caboose dow openings line up. Also note that one side only has the high, small window for the bathroom. Cut out the window open- ings on one side and then cut through to the other side using the square edged X-acto blade shown (Fig. 3). Cut out the cupola window openings. Fig. 3 Before separating the sides, scribe the excess material around the cupola and true up the ends (Fig. 4). Snap off the excess while supporting the edges of the Fig. 9 cupola with needlenose pliers (Fig. 5). You should now have two sides (Fig. 6) Make the two ends from the remain- der of the siding sheet. The process is the same as for the sides; transfer the draw- ing to the siding with a pencil but line up the sides side-by-side (Fig. 7). Scribe between the two sides and fold them over so they are back-to-back. Carefully Fig. 4 scribe the arc of the roof and snap off the excess material. True up the arc with a file so the ends match. Set the ends against the floor (Fig. 8) and scribe a line across the top of the Fig. 10 floor. Note the sides are about a scale six inches wider than the floor, so leave three scale inches (one board width) on each side. Trim off the material below the floor line and be careful with those short three- inch wide extensions. They’re delicate. Find the center of each end by drawing Fig. 5 two diagonal lines from corner-to-corner (Fig. 9). Now lay out the door openings using the siding grooves as guides. Scribe Fig. 11 carefully through the vertical lines and cut through the horizontal with the chisel blade. Now, trim out the door frame with scale 1 x 3 styrene strips. Make the doors by laminating 0.010” sheet (Figs. 10 & 11). Make the bottom sheet a bit large than the door opening so you’ll have something to glue to the end Fig.