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Making Window Sashes

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Making Window Sashes Project PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL T COLLINS Making window sashes FILLET Michael T Collins enjoys a window SCRIBED OVOLO CROSS OVOLO GLAZING SECTION of opportunity as he makes light of TENON REBATE sash window construction RAIL WEDGE PEG f all the tasks of the joiner, perhaps no other has exacted the STILE Omost skill and afforded the most income than that of the window sash maker. If you have never attempted to make a sash, I highly recommend it, if for no other reason than to test your layout, STILE precision and organisational skills. MUNTIN BAR / In this article I’ll show you how to make GLAZING BAR a small, simple four light sash. Parts of a window sash MORTICE & Diagram 1 shows the basic parts of a TENON window sash. General terms are: muntin bars, glazing bars (UK), muntin (US). ➤ WEDGE PEG RAIL STUB TENON Woodworking Crafts issue 49 37 Project Project produced on the sample, in my case A brief history of the sash the fillet is 9mm. The distance from the There are various planes that can be mortise gauge fence to the nearest pin used to make window sashes. The most should be the total width of the ovolo common are the English sash moulding profile determined from the sample. planes. Plane (b) shows a common This way the intersecting mortise and profile available at the end of the tenon will fall exactly where the fillet is 19th century. between the ovolo and glazing rebate. English methods required at least Now, from the face side, mark the two planes to produce the profile. First, fillet width on the stiles (mortises) and the glazing rebate was cut using a sash rails (tenons). 5 6 fillister plane (a), then the sash profile cut and rebate planes). Some of the stick and vertical while planing. with a sash moulding plane (b). To make rebate planes are made in two parts with For this project I am using a Stanley 45 Chop both the through and stub the muntin bars, the process is repeated a screws connecting the halves (d). These combination plane (e). 7mortises on the stiles. second time, giving a four-cut method. can be adjusted to change the width of It should be noted that American American planes (c), (d) and (e) were the fillet. planes, such as a Stanley 45, are much Saw the tenon cheeks on the waste designed to be far more efficient and cut In the image, the English plane (b) you harder to use compared to the English 8side. Do not saw the shoulders as the profile and glazing rebate at the same often see a scratched line or ‘spring’ sash planes, as greater force is required doing so would make it difficult to plane time. They were called stick and rabbet line on the end of the plane. The plane is to propel the cutters through the wood, towards the end of the moulding, and planes. (In England they are called stick held at an angle keeping the spring line and harder still if the grain is unwieldy. sawing the tenons after planing would be difficult. Plane the sash moulding profile. The wood The rail and stile mouldings can Traditionally, window sashes are 9be planed by securing them in 7 8 1built with stable, straight-grain the vice. Alternatively, they may be wood, pine being the predominant placed between tail vice and bench wood in the US. However, any well- dogs. Historically, joiners’ benches seasoned, rot-resistant wood with were considerably longer than today’s straight, close grain will work. Here modern benches, enabling mouldings I am making use of a really old to be produced in great lengths – my Douglas fir scaffolding plank. Always 1 2 bench is over 2m long and I can easily check for any metal when using produce mouldings for most projects. reclaimed wood. Using the sash moulding plane, apply pressure forward and into For the most stable wood try to pick the workpiece to create the sash 2quartersawn lumber. What you’re mouldings. Always start at the far end looking for is wood that is knot-free, of the piece and take progressively 10 with end grain running perpendicular longer shavings. Regardless of the 9 to the width of the board. plane you are using, it will bottom out The mortise and tenon are the when the moulding is complete. two basic joints in making window sashes, and throughout history the When you have planed all the 3 4 basic design of sash joinery is pretty 10frame mouldings, the profile similar both in the UK and US. Nearly can be burnished with the shavings all references agree that the joinery and face edge clearly. Mark also the The frame produced. Now you can saw off the should be cut first before the moulding direction of the grain. If you get the Using the story stick, mark out cheeks of the tenons and... and glazing rebates are made. grain right on one face it will probably 3the joinery locations. Transfer the be diving away on the other – hence joinery marks from the story stick to ...adjust the fit accordingly. Go The parts the reason straightest grain wood the rails using a marking knife and to 11easy and pay attention to the Rip and cut the parts to slightly is preferred. the stiles using a pencil. gauge lines. longer than final dimension – plane 11 12 all stock to width and thickness. Stiles Dimensions and Using the sash plane, produce a cut the tenons to fit the should be at least 25-50mm longer joinery layout 4short test sample – it does not have 12mortises. than window height to allow for Create a ‘story stick’ with all the key to be a complete length of moulding, ‘horns’ on both ends – even longer dimensions of the rails, stiles and but just enough to get the location of Coping the stiles if you are going to have fancy upper muntin bars. For this small window the fillet. On the rails, at the mortise, cut sashes. Rails should be sized to be sash, the stiles are 30mm wide, the Note: remember that the face side of 13through the ovolo about 9mm just slightly longer than the window upper rail 40mm and the bottom the moulding is inside the house. All along the mortise. opening width. rail 60mm. planing is done from the face side. During this dimensioning process I am using stock that is 40mm thick Now pare away the ovolo profile you will have discovered the way the to match the width of my Stanley 45’s Mark all the parts clearly. 14to the end of the rails. ➤ grain runs – you want the grain to rise cutter. This will give a 13mm glazing 5 away from you. rebate, 9mm fillet and a 13mm From the face side, set the mortise 13 14 Label the parts and mark the face ovolo profile. 6gauge to the width of the fillet 38 www.woodworkersinstitute.com Woodworking Crafts issue 49 39 Project Project On the stiles, using a chisel and Scribing the vertical muntin 15mitre block, create a 45° slope With the muntin bars held in a on the ovolo portion by the inner side 22bench hook, cut the shoulders of the mortise. of the tenon to length on both sides down to the fillet. In the image, I have Use an in-cannel gouge of the highlighted the sections to be removed. 16same radius as the ovolo portion Because I used a Stanley 45, the two of the sash. The idea is that the scribed shoulders, if viewed from the side, will section of the stile cups over the be aligned. portion of the ovolo you left on With a chisel remove the cheeks from the rail. both sides of the tenons up to 15 16 the shoulders. Test the joint. From the front the scribed joint looks like a 45° All that remains to do now is 17 22 23 angle. 23mitre and scribe the muntin bar tenons to fit over the upper and lower The muntin bars sash moulding. This is a repeat of the The muntin bars, or glazing bars, are method we used to scribe the stiles 20mm x 40mm. earlier, except we mitre and scribe The vertical muntin is a solid piece from both sides. running between the top and bottom rails and, depending on the dimension Horizontal muntins of the two rails, will have either The short, horizontal muntins through or stub mortises. My sash has 24are measured and cut to length. a through mortise in the top rail and a 17 18 The tenons that mate with the vertical stub in the lower rail. muntin will have stub tenons about Carefully chop the through mortise 9mm long. in the middle of the vertical muntin Then the ovolo is mitred and scribed from both sides. in the same way as the vertical muntin The muntin bars are very thin and bars previously. 24 25 planing them requires a device called a sticking board (sticking is the term Putting it all together used to plane mouldings). Traditionally sash windows were 25never glued. To finish, simply A sticking board clamp the sash together and then, with A sticking board is a very simple a chisel, create a kerf in the end of each 18device. From the photo and tenon and drive a wedge in. from the diagram it can be seen how 19 20 a sticking board is made. A flat-head Additionally, strength can be screw keeps the wood from advancing.
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