Sustainable clothing
A practical guide to enhancing clothing durability and quality
June 2017 Introduction
Producing better quality, longer lasting clothes is a win-win situation that brings real benefit to manufacturers, retailers, and to customers. Collaborative action In this guide Working together, the clothing This guide has been researched and industry can pioneer sustainability developed with industry. It shares throughout the life cycle of clothing. simple steps and best practice on how WRAP’s research, Valuing Our Clothes: to design, produce, and sell the cost of UK fashion, found that sustainable clothing that lasts longer taking practical action reduces the and that can easily be repaired and environmental footprint of clothing re-used. and transforms the clothing industry.
The most significant opportunity for savings is to increase the active life of clothes.
Extending the life of 50% of For us, it’s not a contradiction. clothes by an extra nine We want people to buy months of active use would better quality, durable goods, reduce carbon, water and and at the end of their lives, waste footprints by around recycle them. 4-10% each. Rose Marcario, CEO, Patagonia Valuing Our Clothes: the cost of UK fashion, 2017
02 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Introduction: Sustainable Clothing Guide Back to Contents Contents
Using this guide Use the buttons on the bottom right of each page to navigate the guide with ease. The arrows take you to the next and previous page. The ‘Back to Contents’ link brings you back to this page. Hyperlinks within text are underlined.
03 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Introduction: Sustainable Clothing Guide Back to Contents What does durability mean?
04 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | What does durability mean? Back to Contents Defining durability
For some brands, ‘durability’ and ‘quality’ are interchangeable. As well as reducing the In this guide we refer to two definitions: environmental footprint of clothing, durability physical and emotional durability. helps to drive quality, which: • safeguards against garment failure; • strengthens brand reputation; and Physical durability... Emotional durability ... • cements customer satisfaction and loyalty. For a consumer, the durability of a product is ... considers garment design and construction ... takes into account relevance and desirability measured by how long the product provides a in order to create products that can resist to the consumer. For example, does the item useful service to them. Expectations for individual damage and wear. still fit; is it still to the customer’s taste? items vary; ties, jackets, blazers, coats and outdoor It is impacted by a number of factors including: It is impacted by factors related to how the wear are expected to last for over five years, while wearer feels about their clothing, including: underwear and tights have an active life of less than • garment construction. This might include raw three years. • comfort, including raw material choices; cut, fit material choices; style, cut and fit choices; and and size choices; manufacturing processes; Research shows, women are more likely to say that • ageing, including the way that the surface and clothes are no longer in active use because • resistance to surface abrasion, odour and colour age over time with washing and they don’t fit or are not to their taste. Wear and staining, including choices of raw materials wearing, and the ability for the garment to tear is more of an issue for younger people, and and finishes; resist odour and staining; and older people are more likely to store items or not • colour fastness, including selection of get around to disposing of them. • style, including whether the item is of a style appropriate colouration techniques and dyes; that transcends trends and fashions across and seasons. • communication with consumers, including the sharing of information about care, as well as In a saturated marketplace, quality available repair and re-use options. and durability will help retain customers while attracting new buyers from your competitors.
05 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | What does durability mean? Back to Contents Enhancing clothing durability
06 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Enhancing clothing durability
The WRAP report, Design for Longevity, identified the top five actions for enhancing durability, within eight key product categories. These have been summarised here. The guidance has been developed to suit all market segments. However, the approaches to product durability will need to be tailored to each company.
Children’s clothing Occasion wear Knitwear Tailoring
1. Design-in a growth allowance. 1. Use classic styles innovatively to 1. Use quality yarn and fibres to 1. Use high quality outer fabric, and help transcend fashion fads. improve the strength and colour ensure that lining and interlining 2. Select fabrics and components that fastness of knitted garments (see are compatible (see pages 12-13). are proven to offer durability and 2. Ensure that high quality fabrics are pages 12-13). colour fastness. used when designing garments. 2. Apply classic styles, cut and 2. Ensure care and laundry advice is colours, and build-in features to 3. Apply fabric finishes to reduce the 3. Design garments that are multi- clear and simple (see page 23). allow easy adjustment to size and likelihood of staining (see pages functional, to give the customer shape. 15-16). the option to wear different parts 3. Take steps to preserve the quality of the outfit with other clothes (see of knitted fabric (including colour 3. Include clear guidance and advice 4. Design garments for multi- page 11). fastness) and garment manufacture on the care label (see page 23). functionality (such as reversible throughout production. coats) (see page 11). 4. Facilitate alteration through 4. Where possible, utilise detachable adjustable waistbands, generous 4. Provide guidance to design for elements, such as collars or linings, 5. Reinforce weak areas or areas liable seams or additional buttons (see re-use and encourage consumers which can be replaced when worn. to extra stress, such as elbows and page 11). to down-cycle old garments. knees. 5. Provide a specialist aftercare 5. Select materials and components 5. Focus on classic design and loose service, as well as mending that can withstand the chemicals shapes. and repair advice. used in the dry-cleaning process.
07 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Denim Sportswear
1. Use ozone bleaching, laser 1. Use durable material, with engraving and resin finishes to reinforced seams on areas where create the desired effects, with rubbing or chafing occurs (see a lower environmental impact. pages 17-18).
2. Enhance fabric strength and 2. Provide care instructions that surface quality by applying encourage airing of clothes or sustainable dyeing, bleaching and washing promptly after use. surface treatments. 3. Encourage longer attachment to 3. Apply traditional, robust items through the use of wearable manufacturing methods and mass technology or personalisation. customisation strategies to products (see pages 17-18). 4. Add soil-resistant or antibacterial finishes to reduce problems from 4. Educate consumers about the body perspiration and odour (see unique characteristics of denim, pages 15-16). and how to care for, repair, re-use or repurpose it (see page 22). 5. Select warp-knitted fabrics with open fabric structures (e.g. nets 5. Create emotional attachment and mesh) to help the transport through ethical sourcing and of moisture. production, or no waste and craft design approaches.
08 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Casualwear Underwear
Garment types in this category Garment types in this category include include t-shirts, sweatshirts, leggings, men’s and ladies’ pants, socks, tights trousers, shorts, skirts, blouses and other hosiery. and shirts. 1. Use more durable fabrics, trims 1. Select high-quality fabric and test and construction methods. rigorously for performance, including colour fastness and 2. Remove seams, where possible, pilling (see page 19). and recognise that comfort is crucial for prolonged daily wear. 2. Provide clear and simple care and laundry instructions. 3. Schedule in time for multiple fittings during the design process 3. Design-in adjustable features to to ensure that underwear fits well accommodate fluctuations in body and supports where necessary (see shape (see page 11). pages 20-21).
4. Where appropriate, design 4. Provide expert advice on fit and garments with detachable parts size on product packaging, and at which can be replaced when they point of sale (see page 11). become soiled or worn. 5. Design underwear to be easy to 5. Provide styling guidance for the launder. consumer, to encourage longer use and potential re-use.
09 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Design and technology considerations
Designers and technologists have a key role to play in improving clothing A good way to improve sustainability. They should work together to ensure the most suitable durability – and potentially reduce costs and returns – materials are selected from reputable suppliers who understand the is to introduce specifications brand’s performance requirements. Identifying the most appropriate for all production tasks processes is also key to ensuring that the final product performs well. and materials.
Design and specifications Cath Kidston The design stage is pivotal to the eventual durability of a garment. Case Study Choices around style and cut, fit, fibre and yarn, construction, trimmings and finishing all have an impact on the final product. Cath Kidston created a template Many designers and buyers will, rightly, focus much of their for fabric and yarn specifications attention on selecting and specifying the main fabric for their to share with suppliers. The aim products. However, a garment may be returned or disposed of, was to show a clear link between not because the main fabric falls short, but due to a failing in a raw material specification and the low cost component, or as the result of a poorly-specified aspect resulting product, which would of construction or manufacture. lead to quality improvement and, finally, greater durability. Key points Cath Kidston plans to record the changes in order to map and learn Early choices about style and cut, fit, fibre and yarn, from the experiences, enabling construction and trimmings, all have a big impact on it to replicate the work across its the final product. product range.
Introduce specifications for all production tasks and materials.
10 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Style and cut Fit and size John Lewis Style and cut are crucial to the Customers do not come in standard creativity of fashion. If used skilfully, Case Study sizes or have the same preferences in they can also have an impact beyond WRAP worked with John Lewis terms of comfort and fit. One way to the look and feel of the garment. For to develop four block patterns embrace these differences is to offer example, ‘classic’ styles (e.g. the little for men’s short and long sleeved built-in size adjustment or alterations. black dress, tailored shirts, pencil shirts. The aim was to enhance fit This might involve generous seams, skirts, chinos) tend to be long lasting, and to implement standardisation or the use of strategic fastenings. especially if core colours such as black, across like-for-like products Assuming the garment’s construction white, navy or grey are used. sourced from multiple suppliers allows it, a customisation service could and countries. By owning these also be offered. Tailored and semi-tailored garments blocks, John Lewis aimed to last longer because they frame the improve the ratio of ‘first time To enhance fit consistency and size form well. Some tailored items feature right’ samples at the product control at production stage, it is integral undergarments that absorb development stage. This benefits important to align methods of chemicals and help prevent outer the environment through a measurement with suppliers. garments from being stained by reduction in sampling, and their This also increases the chance for deodorants and other personal business commercially through right-first-time samples at the product hygiene products. better and more consistent fit, development stage. and a reduction in sourcing lead Oversized knits and kimono shapes time, which maximises full price Click here to access our are versatile and comfortable and, sales. John Lewis is now working How to Measure Guide. therefore, potentially wearable for with suppliers to use this project longer. Some brands are also adopting as proof of concept to roll out the Key points The clothing industry boasts a unisex collections or updateable, method to other products. wealth of technical know-how multi-functional designs, which Comfort and fit are important, but and production expertise increase the wearability of clothing. needs differ between customers. around classic or simply-styled Key points Adjustable fastenings allow items. This experience can aid for increased wearability. ‘Classic’ styles, tailored and production quality and reduce semi-tailored garments last longer. costs. Think versatile, multi-functional, updateable styles.
11 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents The durability and performance Raw materials of products may be enhanced by Raw materials include fabrics, linings blending different fibres. Nylon and and components (trims). Fabric quality polyester fibres can be successfully depends on many variables, such as blended with natural fibres to enhance fibre type, blends, yarn structure, and the durability of fabrics and improve fabric construction, as well as dyeing the comfort of the final product. and finishing. Fabrics may carry the However, poor selection of fibres can same description, such as 100% have a detrimental impact on quality. cotton, yet vary greatly in For example, cotton polyester blends performance and durability. can be very susceptible to pilling. Furthermore, blending of fibres Fibres compromises opportunities for recycling the product at the end Man-made fibres such as nylon, of its life. polyester and acrylic have good physical durability attributes such as strength, abrasion resistance and shape resilience. Polyester, in particular, is commonly used because of these attributes, as well as being wrinkle-resistant, good at retaining colour, and relatively low cost. Natural fibres like cotton, meanwhile, need to be carefully selected, to allow for variations in harvests. A poor quality, short staple, immature and weak fibre is more likely to cause fabric pilling than long staple cotton. Wool is a hard-wearing fibre but can also be fine and delicate.
One way to influence the durability of a garment is to specify key standards that the fabric must meet.
12 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents For wovens, plain and twill weaves Where changing a choice of raw Raw materials cont. are commonly considered the most material is not an option for the Yarns and fabrics durable options and are used in production of particular garment garments that require high levels types, it may be appropriate to The structure and composition of of physical durability, such as denim provide customers with clear care yarns can be fine-tuned to ensure the jeans and school uniforms. However, guidance. finished product is fit for purpose. For as trends call for lighter-weight example, using long staple fibres in garments, there may be a decrease Key points cotton yarns can produce fabrics in the durability of the final product, which tend to be more durable, with unless changes are made to fibre, yarn Processes, usage and care impact improved yarn strength and reduced and fabric constructions. significantly on durability. pilling. A high yarn twist generally Identify key standards for the improves pilling and strength, Specifications although it should be noted that garment’s main components (main increasing twist can also increase the One way that designers and fabric, trimmings and linings). cost of yarns. For more information on technologists can influence the how yarns can reduce surface durability of a garment is to identify abrasion such as pilling, click here. key standards (specifications) the Ted Baker fabric must meet, and then task Case Study For knitwear, acrylic yarns tend to be buyers to source fabrics that have inexpensive and hard-wearing. been tested to meet those standards. WRAP worked with Ted Baker to risk fabrics and help resolve issues However, care should be taken to It is also important to understand the resolve a colourfastness issue on before they impact significantly on ensure that the acrylic fibre used is a durability of trimmings and a womenswear garment. As part cost or delivery timescales. low pill variety – acrylic knitwear tends components, which are used in of this work, the critical paths to pill with abrasion. The specification clothing production, including zips, for design and production were It will ensure consistent quality of the fibre thickness and length, yarn buttons and garment linings. reviewed to identify the information of materials across suppliers structure, fabric construction and requested from suppliers at each and allow Ted Baker to build weight all play a part in determining For example, specifying collarbones stage of the product development. on its understanding of fabrics the durability of the finished product. that minimise abrasion and the use Consequently, Ted Baker identified which, in turn, will help continual of woven rather than non-woven an opportunity to review part of improvements both within interlinings in a shirt, all increase its its quality management process Ted Baker and its suppliers. durability. and has subsequently developed a Fabric Technical Sheet to be used in Template specifications are available advance of booking bulk production. to SCAP signatories and supporters By engaging at this earlier stage, here. Ted Baker’s production team will be able to collect information on high-
13 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents surface disruption is one way to Colouration reduce the apparent fading of and dye selection garments and extend their life. By working closely with When customers choose new clothes, Technical support for dyestuff colour is one of the most important dyestuff manufacturers and selection, testing and performance influences. It also plays a significant suppliers it is possible to can be requested from a number role in deciding when a garment has of dyestuff manufacturers. select dyes that best meet the reached the end of its life. The choice performance requirements of of a cheap or unsuitable dye, or cutting The Ecological and Toxicological corners in dye application, has a the garment. Association of Dyes and Organic significant effect on the durability of a Pigments Manufacturers (ETAD) is a garment, so correctly specifying dye good source for further information. use and application should be a key Dye chemistries which work particularly well with specific fibre types Members are obliged to adhere to part of product specification. and, therefore, increase colour fastness and durability, are demonstrated ETAD’s Code of Ethics, which is based in the table below. on the principles of responsible care. Whether the colouration process They must also comply with all happens at the fibre, yarn, fabric, national and international chemical Dye Type Fibres or garment stage of the production regulations. Click here for more process, it is important to ensure the Acid dyes Silk, wool, nylon and modified acrylic fibres information. specifications have been clearly Azo dyes Cotton (cellulose) fibres defined and that suppliers are aware Key points of the necessary standards. Using Basic dyes Acrylic fibres, wool and silk standard test methods to determine Retention of colour plays a the characteristics of the selected dye Direct dyes Cotton and paper, wool, silk and nylon significant role in deciding when a is quick and cheap to complete. For garment has reached the end of its Cellulose acetate, nylon, triacetate and example, fading due to the effect of Disperse dyes life. polyester fibres washing powders can be tested via Reactive dyes Cotton and other cellulosic fibres oxidative bleaching tests. Dye selection and dyeing methods all have a huge impact on colour Vat dyes e.g. indigo Cotton, wool Colour fading (particularly of cotton fastness and colour fading. fabrics) is also caused by an optical effect due to surface disruption. Minimising surface disruption is It should be noted that the range of colours and brightness of dye type classes Abrasion of fabrics tends to bring one way to reduce apparent fading does vary, so colourfastness and brightness often have to be balanced. loose fibres to the surface; these and extend the life of products. fibres then alter the way in which ight is reflected off the surface, giving the impression of fading. Minimising
14 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Finishes Technologies available for mechanical The market for finishes is fast-paced and chemical finishing of fabrics are and changes frequently. For Finishing processes are used to very diverse and extensive, with new information about the latest finishes, improve the look, performance, or finishing opportunities constantly contact recognised responsible ‘hand’ (feel) of the finished clothing. being developed. Opportunities for finishing manufacturers. They will be They are usually applied directly to mechanical finishing will be able to supply information on their fabrics after, or in combination with, determined by the availability of the developments and the direction the dyeing. Mechanical and chemical necessary finishing equipment in the market is moving. These finishing treatments produce a range supply chain. However, the majority of manufacturers can be found through of effects, including: chemical finishes are relatively easy to a variety of sources; via primary apply, and most good suppliers can suppliers, fabric mills or trade • changing the texture, drape and feel provide the bulk of chemical finishing. associations. of the fabric – including stiffening/ Careful consideration of chemical softening, brushing or smoothing; management in the finishing Many finishing treatments can affect performance and durability, or help • improving appearance – including processes, as well as other parts of the extend the active use of a garment. colour, sheen and pattern; textile supply chain, is essential, and should form part of a Quality Understanding likely impacts and • adding functional properties – Management System (see page 26). giving clear instructions on where, including crease resistance, stain and how, the final product will be used resistance, and waterproofing; and needs to be an integral part of an F&F overall product specification. • facilitating care requirements – Case Study including easy wash, quicker drying Key points times, colourfast, pre-shrinking or F&F has been working with its Importantly for customers, the ‘sanforising’, applying anti-pilling supply chain to improve durability original price point for the jeans has Mechanical and chemical treatments (such as bio-polishing) and quality across its product range. been retained, and wearer trials treatments produce a range of or anti-microbial treatments. From engaging with customers showed that the fabric performed finishing effects. and colleagues, F&F saw that there exceptionally well. was a need to make its black jeans How the product will be used retain their colour for longer. To impacts on the type of finishing Understanding likely impacts resolve this issue, it worked with that is needed. its suppliers Kipas and Huntsman. and giving clear instructions Through the use of Huntsman’s Bio-polishing can reduce the on where, and how, the final special black dye, it has been able abrasion that causes pilling, to product will be used needs to to develop a fabric that stays black extend the life of the product. even after 20 home laundry washes be an integral part of an with the shade change of grade 4. overall product specification.
15 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Finishes cont. Examples of chemical finishes and their applications are provided in the table below.
Type of Fabrics Examples of Process Limitations Novozymes Finish used on applications Example Washes reduce the Enzymes are increasingly used Cotton, anti-pilling effect, but Knitwear and in the textile industry and have Anti-pilling wool and Applied to fabric the use of washing jerseys proved to be very successful in blends conditioners can help reducing pilling for many fabric prevent this types, including knitted jerseys and woven cotton. Independent Outdoor Chemicals are sprayed onto fabric Must be re-proofed analysis has shown bio-polishing Water products to give it a showerproof, water regularly (often through can significantly reduce the All fabrics proofing such as resistance to waterproof finish, washing or tumble occurrence of pilling and there jackets depending on desired performance drying) is evidence that, as a result, the lifetime of a product could be increased by up to 20%. Schoolwear, Stain Application washes Novozymes is one of a number All fabrics children’s Applied to fabric of companies that has developed resistance off over time clothing bio-polishing technology based on enzyme finishes.
Cotton and Chemicals are applied to fabrics to Tumble drying is often Easy care cellulosic Shirts reduce creasing or make it easier to recommended to renew fabrics iron clothing the effect
Applied to fabric to reduce felting and Impacts ‘hand’ (feel) of Any woollen shrinking and to allow machine Shrink resist Wool the fabric (can reduce clothing washing and tumble drying of wool softness) and wool blend garments
16 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Manufacturing Product failures can occur when the Size control seam technique used is incompatible Flint and Tinder Designers have numerous stitch with the fabric. Particular care should Poor size control in manufacturing can Example types, sewing threads, machine be given to the construction of lead to garments being wrongly models and settings to choose from, performance garments, such as labelled. Inconsistency is problematic Inspired by a factory visit that as well as an array of methods for waterproof products and close-fitting for customers, but this will also have opened their eyes to the link garment construction. Each technique or stretch garments. an impact on durability. Undersized between product durability and will be best suited to a particular fabric garments are more likely to have less manufacturing issues (such as or garment type and can be exploited Trimmings tolerance for any small shrinkage that combining unsuitable fabrics, or to achieve greater durability. For may occur. This can lead to fabric and stitching which leads to faster wear example, choosing the correct stitch The quality of trimmings and the seam failures. Therefore, it is and tear), the founders of Flint density for seams will minimise fabric way they are attached need to be important to correctly manage sizing and Tinder made it their mission slippage and puckering, while making given special consideration, to give control (and labelling of garments) in to offer a hooded sweatshirt that sure that the correct operating the finished garment the longest the production process. could last a lifetime. The 10-year procedures are in place for the possible life. hoodie, 100% American-made, is application of linings helps to avoid Find out more in our manufactured from high quality delamination. How to Measure Guide. domestic materials, utilising reinforced stitching for extreme durability, and heavy weight Lycra ribs to retain shape. The garment is guaranteed to last a decade and comes with a free of charge Co-ordinating design and mending service. manufacture to align specifications will improve the durability of the product.
17 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Manufacturing cont. ASOS Stitching Case Study To enhance durability, the use of ASOS identified an issue with the to assess how the hem strength reinforcement stitches and bar tacks blind felled hems on its tailored performed. Upon analysis, the at stress points on the garment is garments and their tendency to fail hems that had the Coats ‘Hemseal’ recommended. A high stitch density – i.e. fail after washing or wearing. applied performed much better should preferably be used on heavier, ASOS worked with WRAP to trial a than the standard hem, especially tightly woven fabrics. It is also possible bonding seal on both menswear for lightweight trousers. ASOS to directly contact thread suppliers and womenswear tailored trousers. intends to develop this trial further for in-country support at garment ASOS selected one lightweight style and has identified some possible factories. To increase comfort, and one heavyweight style of both opportunities to modify the hem consider the use of flat seams for menswear and ladieswear trousers structure, including potentially seams close to the body. that were already on sale. Three offering customers garments with pairs of each trouser type were sent hems they can seal at home, or a For more information click here. to a selection of suppliers, and one re-sealable hem. trouser leg in each pair of trousers Key points had Coats ‘Hemseal’ applied; this thread is a ‘fusible low-melt thread A variety of sewing techniques can that creates a reliably secure hem’. be used on particular fabrics to The garments were then subjected enhance durability. to a series of durability washes Consider the way in which trimmings are attached.
18 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Product testing Colour fastness tests include: failure was often associated with The use of clearly defined testing • domestic laundering; New Look Case Study the main waist button, and a study protocols for components and • commercial laundering and dry- of the faulty New Look samples manufacturing elements can be built cleaning; New Look identified an issue indicated that the failure tended to into product specifications to ensure with fabric failure on different be caused by stress at the button • rubbing (wet and dry); consistency of quality. Industry styles of womenswear stretch attachment area leading to fabric standard tests cover physical testing, • chlorinated and sea water; jeans, specifically on the shank failure. There was no evidence of colour fastness, chemical testing and button waistband and fly area. the button itself failing. New Look • hydrophobicity (drop test); flammability, and can form part of a Although suppliers had carried is now looking at working with product specification. Standards may • phenolic yellowing; and out significant testing at an earlier suppliers to review the types of be British (BSI), European (CEN) or stage to try to ensure products testing it undertakes, to ensure • testing for print durability. international (ISO), and even retailer- met New Look’s high standards, it is consistent and aligned with specific. Marks & Spencer, for example, failures and subsequent returns industry standards, following the There is no absolute single standard led the development of clothing occurred across a number of recommendations from the pilot for all products. Many standards relate technology standards for the industry. different styles and from a number programme. to the process and equipment, while of different suppliers. In order to the assessment criteria can be Main physical tests include: understand why the issue was subjective, as well as depending on occurring, New Look worked with • seam rupture; how and where the product will be WRAP to analyse the returns and used. For example, a ball gown would • tear strength; product testing data. The button be expected to undergo occasional • burst or tensile strength; commercial cleaning, whereas a • pilling; swimsuit needs to be colourfast in a variety of water conditions with • abrasion; multiple uses. Key points • elasticity; For more detailed information on A number of industry standard The use of clearly defined • stability to washing; and product testing, see our Clothing tests now exist for fabrics and testing protocols for Durability report. garments. • seam slippage. components and There is no absolute single manufacturing elements can standard for all products. be built into product Each product specification should specifications to ensure include clearly defined testing consistency of quality, leading protocols. to stable product durability.
19 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Examples of extended wash tests and wearer trials for core Extended wash tests products are given in the table below. and wearer trials Test / Trial Knitwear Shirt Jeans Socks T-Shirt A good way to find out how Number of suitable a fabric or trimmings may repeated wash/ 20 (cashmere) 40 40 50 50 be for their intended use is through dry cycles pre-production wearer trials. This method can be used to assess a range Target wearer 200+ 200+ 200+ 200+ 200+ of issues that directly affect the trial hours durability of the garment, such as how well it withstands washing, its 73 (cashmere) susceptibility to staining, the durability Average hours 24 men’s (other of fabric and trimmings, and per wash in fibres) 18 39 24 28 understanding of care instructions. wearer trials 11 children’s (other fibres) By conducting such trials over a reasonable time period, manufacturers can identify any issues COS and take appropriate steps – such as Case Study changing fabric quality – to resolve them. A full lifetime test may not be COS, which is part of H&M group, that current care recommendation feasible. In the case of knitwear, for ran wash test trials on four different is correct. At this temperature, example, this would require 30 menswear merino wool jumpers, there was little evidence of surface repeated care label wash/dry cycles in order to review and assess disruption or shrinkage, and there and 1,800 hours of wearer trials. It is the optimal care instructions was also little variation in colour, therefore important to identify an to maximise the garments’ life. even after 20 washes. The results appropriate testing regime that would Five different wash cycles were highlighted that care label advice give a good indication of garment undertaken, at 30°C gentle, and in is critical to ensure performance is lifetime, measured against a set of cold wash. After each wash cycle, sustained throughout the life of a performance criteria. The time needed samples were assessed in terms garment. could then be factored into product of stability to washing (via flat development lead times. measurements); visual assessment of pilling and any colour variation; See the table on page 21 for further and overall general appearance. details on wash and wear frequencies. The performance of the garments washed at 30°C gentle showed
20 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Cath Kidston • Repeated wash tests reveal Key points Case Study Extended wash tests insights into laundering processes, and wearer trials particularly colour retention, and Pre-production wearer trials can Cath Kidston carried out can do so in a relatively short be used to fully assess fabric and wearer trials on core products, cont. period of time. trimmings suitability. including a cardigan, jumper and babygrow. The objective was to Wash tests and wearer trials are • Ensuring that garments used in Issues can be identified from wash understand the impacts of wear complementary, each providing wearer trials are manufactured and wear trials and appropriate on the garments in order to better valuable insights into predicting a from the production fabric limits steps taken. understand product life cycles. product’s lifetime and potential the possibility of variations in Over the two-week trial, each sources of failure. finishes, and in quality between Ensure that garments used in garment was worn for 200 hours. sample batches and final garments. wearer trials are manufactured • Wearer trials reveal insights into the from the production fabric. The results were used to better ‘real world’ effects of garments understand where pilling occurred being worn and laundered. For more information on and under what circumstances wearer trials click here. the babygrow experienced colour fade. At the same time, wearer For an example of a trials were also undertaken on wearer trial template (see page 31). equivalent items produced by competitors to compare quality The table below is a guide to likely wear and wash frequencies that may help designers and durability. and manufacturers set up their own testing regime.
Row Longevity factors Knitwear Shirt Jeans Socks T-Shirt A Current lifetime estimate (years)1 3.7 3.6 3.1 1.8 3.3 B Target lifetime (years)2 5 5 4 2.5 4.5 C Average wear days per year3 30 16 75 50 25 D Implied wear days per month4 2.5 1.3 6.2 4.2 2.1
5 E Total days of wear for the target lifetime 150 80 300 125 112.5 1 Based on WRAP Data 2 6 Based on lifetime increase of one third F Hours of wear for the target lifetime 1800 960 3600 1500 1350 3 Working assumption 6 (validated by industry interviews) G Assumed days of wear per wash 5 2 10 2 2 4 Row C/12 5 7 Row B x Row C H Hours of wear per wash 60 24 120 24 24 6 Row E x 12 (assumed avg. 12 hours wear per day) I Average number of washes for the target lifetime 30 40 30 62 56 7 Working assumption (validated by industry interviews) The figures are indicative only and depend upon unknowns such as the wearing and laundry habits of individuals, and 8 Row G x 12 the extent of their wardrobes. The data will also be fibre dependent, especially for knitwear. 9 Row F / Row H
21 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Consumer use
• reading care instructions, and Customer education ensuring that they are followed. For John Lewis example, garments should be dry Case Study and messaging cleaned when necessary, cold Given a little direction, customers washed and/or dried flat if The Selling Partner Learning • explaining how the use of the would be able to gauge the quality appropriate; and Guide provides John Lewis with right detergent and lower washing and potential durability of garments information to be communicated temperatures can affect the life • looking for stains, rips, and other before they buy. to customers on the shop floor. The expectancy of clothes and reduce obvious damage caused in store or Learning Guide has been updated the environmental impacts of in transit before sale. Information could include advice on: to include messaging from WRAP’s washing, wearing and disposal; and Love Your Clothes campaign, which • giving customers the opportunity • evaluating seams, including advice is used to assist in sharing three key to extend the life of clothes on looking for loose threads and messages which support clothing (particularly linking to in-store broken stitches. Consumers could durability: be made aware that a higher haberdashery departments to density of stitches per inch is • making the connection between demonstrate how simple changes generally better; that stitching clothing that is more durable to garments can increase the should be relatively tight; and that and higher quality, and the lifetime of clothes). serged seams or double straight Giving customers clear advice environmental impact of those seams are usually stronger and may will help them to choose garments in comparison to last longer than an equivalent item more durable products. disposable fashion; with single straight seams; • examining garment linings and reinforcement. For example, looking at facing around zips, buttons, or other high-use areas; • understanding that fibre content will play a role in clothing durability. For example, natural fibres may last longer and launder more easily in some garment applications than synthetic alternatives;
22 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Advice might include: Advising customers that some Wash and garments are likely to experience • washing coordinating products wear guidance together (for example suits, twin- pilling may help to reduce customer returns, while providing advice on how The way that people wash their clothes sets or lingerie), and removing to remove fabric pills could also be at home has the potential to change accessories before washing; appropriate. Fabric pilling can be the characteristics of fibres and fabrics • dry cleaning garments, when prevented to some extent by washing and, as a result, to reduce durability. necessary; garments inside out on a shorter wash cycle and removing them from the WRAP’s research shows that • considering steam clean options; dryer promptly. consumers are willing to change • washing when necessary, rather clothes care habits; due to a decrease than after each wear; Click here for more information on in tumble drying, ironing, and washing • airing garments as a means of care labels temperatures, the carbon footprint of freshening; clothing in the UK has reduced by 700,000 tonnes CO2e, since 2012. • not rubbing stains or marks, to avoid causing damage to the fabric; Whistles Case Study Improving care information on labels, • avoiding the use of solvents for spot packaging, at point of purchase, or on cleaning, as they can cause In order to generate a clear picture Whistles also identified that in supporting websites is a low cost way discolouration; for all customer returns and many instances failure occurs that could further decrease the carbon service, Whistles undertook a due footprint, whilst increasing durability. • storing appropriately – for example when customers mismanage their on hangers – using any garment diligence exercise to amalgamate clothes at home. To help ensure loops or other features provided; data captured across different customers have a positive experience folding, and removing from sunlight elements of the business including in-store and at home, Whistles when not in use; Customer Services, Technical, and has developed a Customer Care throughout individual stores. This Guide for store staff. This guide has • using moth balls when storing process helped Customer Services woollens; information about different fabric and Technical Compliance teams types; how to wash, store and care • using a specialist laundry bag for to identify why garments are for garments, including details of delicate items; and most frequently returned, and to WRAP’s consumer-facing Love Your understand customer behaviour • washing and ironing garments at Clothes website. The guides are now patterns. In some specific instances, the right temperature, according to in every store, and in the coming this work also helped identify a the care label, and reversing those months, the information will also be recurrent garment failure, allowing with motifs to avoid damage. available on the Whistles website. for product redesign to be launched for SS17.
23 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Some department stores with Re-use support Repair, alteration haberdasheries are promoting sewing Patagonia A number of brands and retailers have and re-use support materials and running open courses in Example stores. Where self-repair or alteration formed partnerships with charities to Repair and alterations may not be appropriate, some brands Patagonia believes in offering its support and encourage consumer re-use by: Although most people are able to sew and retailers are entering into national customers the chance to have their agreements with chains of tailors, or items repaired to extend product a button on, research suggests that • providing in-store take back options; fewer now have the skills to make even offering this service themselves. life. In 2016, its repair department more complicated repairs such as mended over 45,000 garments. • promoting the delivery of second altering a hem or darning holes. Taking this one step further, hand clothing to charity shops; Instead, people may store or discard Patagonia is also empowering the consumer to repair clothing • incentivising re-use through the use items in disrepair or in need of Retailers can encourage of money off vouchers for new alteration. themselves, by launching a new self-repair by incorporating repair programme in collaboration products; and At a national level, however, TV shows repair kits into clothing sales, with iFixit. Customers can • supporting workplace-based, used download free, easy-to-follow such as The Great British Sewing Bee or building relationships with clothing amnesties and working have helped promote clothing repair online repair guides for Patagonia with community-based and alteration as a hobby activity and national firms to offer repair clothing and are also offered an organisations for re-use of specific lifestyle choice. This trend could be services to customers. Expedition Sewing Kit for on the clothing items such as sportswear. spot emergency repairs. supported through the provision of Research suggests that raising basic repair kits – including threads or awareness of a number of re-use yarn, buttons and instructions – in options increases collections of garment packaging and/or on product textiles across the board, rather than labels. It can also be supported by moving clothes from one re-use outlet factsheets offered in-store, online or (such as a charity shop) to another in packaging. (such as a textile bring-bank). Promoting one or more options for re-use can therefore boost the active life of a wide range of clothing. Visit the Love Your Clothes website Explore options to for more information on repair and encourage re-use by working re-use. with charities or promoting re-use through a voucher or store-based scheme.
24 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Enhancing clothing durability Back to Contents Getting started within your organisation
25 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Getting started within your organisation Back to Contents Aligning Quality Management Systems
Quality management is essential lower levels of wastage and product into account design; materials; Key questions to consider throughout the manufacturing failures, and the potential to reduce manufacturing processes process – from the sourcing of raw costs. and capacities; suppliers and Have procedures for controlling materials, to the sale of the finished dependencies; and consumer use, as quality been identified and item. Product quality is defined in Some key actions to address quality well as results from performance and described in terms of workplace terms of the quality and standard control include: durability tests, washing trials and practices? of fibres, yarns, fabric construction, consumer wearer trials. Are sampling plans and methods, colour fastness, surface designs, • developing and using specifications; and testing and inspection and the final, finished garment. This could be addressed through: • establishing acceptable tolerances; methods, in place? Implementing a good Quality • establishing a fault rate and Management System (QMS) is the first • identifying and defining failure risks Have all suppliers been provided customer returns recording step to addressing product durability. which could impact the longevity of with clear specifications to support systems; the garment; your quality requirements? A QMS establishes a strategy, • ensuring quality standards are clear, • determining risk tolerance i.e. an action plan and responsibilities, unambiguous and communicated to acceptable level of variation; Is data being collected from all underpinned by formal processes, the relevant organisations and stages of garment production and which help to achieve high people in the supply chain; and • assessing the likelihood and impact from customer returns? of these risks occurring, and performance standards and continual • using a due diligence approach to determining responses; improvements. A good QMS will Is data being analysed and assess bulk production quality. interpreted in order to report be aligned to corporate objectives • evaluating the likelihood of residual successes and drive continual and customer expectations. It will Risk assessment risk and impact; and improvement? implement and monitor business In order to identify potential failure • collaborating with suppliers to processes, and improve the quality optimise processes. of finished products. The benefits points, risk assessments should be of a well-maintained QMS include carried out. The risk assessment For more information click here. reductions in customer returns, and should cover all aspects of the improvements in satisfaction levels, manufacturing and supply chain, both internal and external, taking
26 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Getting started within your organisation Back to Contents Getting the right people together
Making clothing more durable starts at the design stage and requires George at Asda buy-in from stakeholders throughout Case Study the supply chain. An introductory workshop for some of the following George arranged a successful colleagues can be a useful way to workshop with a range of get started. representatives including buyers, the design team, and sourcing Key contacts within the and quality departments. The organisation to engage aim was to highlight the benefits with could include: of durability (which at George is • designers and technologists; referred to as ‘quality’), and to build connections between key • quality managers; stakeholders who could influence • supply chain directors/managers; development, while at the same time promoting existing initiatives • buying and sourcing teams; and exploring new opportunities. • merchandising teams; • in-country support teams; • area and store managers; • corporate social responsibility (CSR) and sustainability teams; and • finance managers.
27 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Getting started within your organisation Back to Contents Key questions to consider
How might you measure physical and emotional durability? What additional information could be, or has already been,
provided to consumers to educate them on ways to extend product durability? How do choices about the design and cut of a garment
impact on its durability? How many new initiatives have been introduced to
improve durability? Can fit adjustments be incorporated into garment design?
What does clothing durability mean to your organisation How are choices about components, fibres, colour, dye (e.g. long-lasting, quality, customer satisfaction)? selections, fabric finishes and construction impacting on product failures, which reduce durability? How can these be addressed? Does your organisation currently address clothing
durability? If so, how?
What can be learned about garments from product tests
or wearer trials? Who else should you engage to get discussions started?
What information and supporting material is available to Who needs to make the change?
support customers with repair and re-use of clothing items?
What goals should you set and what reporting methods
What wash and wear information is available to customers, could you use?
and is it widely understood?
28 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Getting started within your organisation Back to Contents Here is a tool from the Clothing Durability Toolkit that could help you get started within your organisation:
STRATEGY CARD
What are our goals? How will we achieve them? What is needed for success? Who is involved (leader & team)? SHORT TERM (within 6 months)
MEDIUM TERM (6 months to 2 years)
LONG TERM (2 to 5 years)
52 Source: Cooper, T., Oxborrow, L., Claxton, S., Hill, H., Goworek, H., McLaren, A. (2016). Clothing Durability Dozen. Preliminary Draft. Defra: London.
29 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Getting started within your organisation Back to Contents Appendix
30 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Appendix Back to Contents Wearer trial template
• Garments used in wearer trials should be manufactured in production fabric, according WEARER TRIAL to an approved sample. Product code/name Care label (CL) instructions • All garments used in wearer trials should be measured before they are given to the wearers. Target number of days/hours Number of wearers of wear • Clear instructions must be given to wearers, with target number of days/hours of wear, and target number of washes. Summary/ Target number of CL wash comments cycles • Regular product reviews should be planned with wearers, including the taking of pictures of the products. Wearer X Product reference At the end of the trial, summarise your findings and make appropriate recommendations: Review after X Number of days/ • How did items perform over time? What could be washes hours of wear improved? Overall garment • Which items performed the best/worst? Why? Colour What choices could you recommend? appearance Feedback • Did items perform as expected in consumer Fabric look and feel Components laundry conditions? What guidance could you offer or changes could you make? Comments Picture
31 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Appendix Back to Contents Useful sources of information
Further information Clothing Longevity: Measuring Sustainable Clothing Action Plan Strategies to Improve Design and to help drive change Active Use Testing for Clothing Longevity WRAP leads the Sustainable Clothing Offers insights for improving Action Plan (SCAP). SCAP’s ambition is Nottingham Trent University has This appendix signposts to guides and understanding of how long people to improve the sustainability of produced this report, which other support materials to help keep and regularly wear their clothes. clothing across its life cycle. By summarises the outcomes of the clothing designers and manufacturers bringing together business, Defra and WRAP-funded project: improve the durability of garments government, and charities and social Strategies to Improve Design and within their range. enterprises, we have developed Testing for Clothing Longevity. The industry-wide targets to reduce project consisted of a comprehensive Clothing Knowledge Hub resource use and secure recognition literature review; primary research, Clothing Longevity Protocol The Clothing Knowledge Hub for good practice. including interviews with 31 industry practitioners; three consumer focus Offers good practice guidelines showcases new initiatives, processes groups; a series of three industry and designed to encourage the and technologies which can reduce consumer round tables, and an expert manufacture of longer lasting the environmental impact of clothing. workshop. garments; to screen out items which The Hub includes an area on durability Valuing Our Clothes, 2012 and longevity, covering physical fail prematurely; to protect brand WRAP’s ground-breaking report durability, emotional durability, value; and to reduce the environmental provides the first big-picture look at versatility and co-creation. impact of the clothing sector. the financial and environmental Clothing Durability Dozen impacts of clothing. This toolkit, which was produced by Nottingham Trent University with support from Defra and WRAP, How to use the Clothing The Clothing Durability Report provides practical guidance and Longevity Protocol The WRAP Clothing Durability Report Valuing Our Clothes: the cost strategies to improve design and A guide on how to integrate the has been developed to help clothing of UK fashion, 2017 testing for clothing longevity. Clothing Longevity Protocol into your brands and retailers to embed business. longevity procedures into their WRAP’s report provides the latest processes, and thus extend the active research and evidence on the life of clothing. This report provides environmental impacts of the clothing guidance and showcases good industry in the UK, and an update on Design for Longevity practice, such as improved durability, the progress made by the Sustainable Guidance on increasing the active life quality, re-use, and repair. Clothing Action Plan. of clothing.
32 WRAP | Sustainable clothing | Appendix Back to Contents WRAP’s vision is a world in which resources are used sustainably.
Our mission is to accelerate the move to a sustainable resource-efficient economy through re-inventing how we design, produce and sell products; re-thinking how we use and consume products; and re-defining what is possible through re-use and recycling.
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33 WRAP | Sustainable clothing Back to Contents