Contents

This brochure offers a panoramic view of the biological and cultural diversity of Cajas National Park (CNP), as well as practical information for the visitor: a geographic and a tourist map, sites you do not want to miss, outstanding tourist activities, some useful recommendations for your trip, and a directory of services.

2 Map of ’s Natural Heritage Sites (PANE)

4 Cajas National Park An isolated massif dotted with lagoons

8 Geographic map of the National Park

10 Faces and traces The shortest route between the and the sea

14 Tourist map

16 Not to be missed

20 Things to do

24 Getting there

26 Directory

Mosses (Breutelia integrifolia) and this 28 List of outstanding wildlife species (Hypochaeris sp.) associate with each other to better use scarce resources and gain protection from the harsh climate of the páramo. b GALÁPAGOS 1 GALÁPAGOS NATIONAL PARK GALÁPAGOS MARINE RESERVE 2 16 PACIFIC COAST 2 18 3 GALERA SAN FRANCISCO MARINE RESERVE 17 Esmeraldas 4 5 MANGLARES CHURUTE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 1 26 6 MACHE CHINDUL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Pto. Baquerizo 3 Moreno 20 Tulcán 7 25 SANTA CLARA WILDLIFE REFUGE 8 8 MUISNE RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 6 9 EL SALADO MANGROVES FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE Ibarra 44 10 SANTA ELENA PENINSULA MARINE FAUNA WILDLIFE REFUGE 11 EL MORRO MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE 27 Nueva Loja 0o 12 PACOCHE WILDLIFE REFUGE 13 PARQUE LAGO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 39 40 14 ARENILLAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 15 ISLAS CORAZÓN Y FRAGATAS WILDLIFE REFUGE 28 41 16 CAYAPAS MATAJE ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Sto. Domingo 45 17 ESMERALDAS RIVER ESTUARY MANGROVES WILDLIFE REFUGE N Francisco 15 24 30 de Orellana 18 LA CHIQUITA WILDLIFE REFUGE 31 29 OE 19 ISLA SANTAY AND ISLA DEL GALLO NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 20 PAMBILAR WILDLIFE RESERVE S 21 LOS SAMANES NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Tena 12 22 PLAYAS DE VILLAMIL NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 37 42 23 EL PELADO MARINE RESERVE Ambato COAST - ANDES 32 24 LOS ILINIZAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 4 Puyo 25 COTACACHI CAYAPAS ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Guaranda Riobamba ANDES 38 26 EL ÁNGEL ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 23 21 27 PULULAHUA GEOBOTANICAL RESERVE 10 28 PASOCHOA WILDLIFE RESERVE 13 19 29 ANTISANA ECOLOGICAL RESERVE Santa Elena 9 30 EL BOLICHE NATIONAL RECREATION AREA 31 11 5 Macas Perú 32 CHIMBORAZO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE 22 33 CAJAS NATIONAL PARK 34 YACURI NATIONAL PARK 33 Azogues 35 QUIMSACOCHA NATIONAL RECREATION AREA Pacific Ocean 35 ANDES - AMAZON 7 Cuenca

36 PODOCARPUS NATIONAL PARK 37 LLANGANATES NATIONAL PARK 47 38 14 46 39 CAYAMBE COCA NATIONAL PARK MAP of AMAZON 43

40 CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE NATURAL HERITAGE SITES 41 LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE Loja Zamora 42 YASUNÍ NATIONAL PARK Patrimonio de Áreas Naturales del Estado, PANE 36 43 EL ZARZA WILDLIFE REFUGE 44 COFÁN BERMEJO ECOLOGICAL RESERVE 45 SUMACO NAPO-GALERAS NATIONAL PARK 46 EL CÓNDOR BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 34 48 100 km 47 EL QUIMI BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 48 CERRO PLATEADO BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 3 CAJAS ike the shards of a broken mirror on CAJAS IN BRIEF and temperatures, but milder winds. This NATIONAL a green rug, Cajas National Park and climate favors the formation of new species. Location: Cuenca county (Azuay) PARK its 786 bodies of water are located In this rugged environment, the resistant on a massif of the western Andes in Area: 28,544 hectares paper tree creates a microclimate in which L Altitude range: 3,150 to 4,445 masl Ecuador’s southern province of Azuay. These unique plant and animal species take refuge, lagoons are connected by small streams. Temperature range: -2 to 18 °C including the so-called quinua bird (Giant Some drain into the Pacific and others into Nearby settlements: Cuenca Conebill). the basin of the Paute River, which drains Established in: 1977 In the Llaviucu valley, at a lower altitude into the Atlantic by way of the Amazon River. Additional distinctions: RAMSAR site (2002), and to the east of the Park, there is also one There are a number of versions about IBA EC063 (2008) of the few remnants of inter-Andean forest the name of the Park, Cajas. Some say it found in the Ecuadorean Andes. In spite of comes from the Kichwa kahas, which means located in the Park. The lack of connection its reduced surface, this exuberant forest is mountain or cordillera. Others say it refers with other highlands ecosystems created home to an impressive diversity of life. An isolated to the irregular landscape of rocky valleys an important center for speciation, that is, The strategic combination of location (on and lagoons, like pools of water “boxed in for the evolution of new species. The Park is the Paute-Girón frontier) and isolation make massif dotted by mountains” (caja is Spanish for box). In located on the edge of what scientists call Cajas a veritable factory of unique species. any event, the author of this peculiar natu- the “Paute-Girón biogeograpical frontier.” The Park protects 71 species of found with lagoons ral scenery is ice. This area of the cordillera This frontier marks the transition between only in Ecuador and 16 of which are found was cut by the passage of ancient glaciers, the Northern Andes and the Central, lower only in this protected area. Cajas is also fa- slow but implacable. By the end of the ice ones. The species south of this line are dif- mous among bird lovers because here you age, around ten thousand years ago, the ferent from those of the Andes to the north. páramo, an ecosystem characteristic of cold The páramo, a spongy tapestry covering the Around 10 thousand years ago, the last The 786 lagoons in the Park cover tropical highlands, invaded this area, today Park, includes patches of intricate paper- ice age came to an end and the glaciers occupying 90% of the Park’s surface. tree forests, locally known as queñual or 1,199 hectares. Luspa, with a surface began to retreat. In the process, they When the glaciers retreated, they left quinua (though they have nothing do to with area of 77 hectares, is the largest. sculpted the Cajas massif, separating it deep cuts in the Andean cordillera, forming a the nutritious grain). The páramos here, in Cajas provides water to the city of from the rest of the Andes and giving it massif with the Cajas River to the north and the south of the country, begin at lower al- Cuenca, the third-largest in the country, its current, unique visage. the Jubones to the south, whose peaks are titudes and experience higher precipitation and to the Paute hydroelectric dam.

La Toreadora Lagoon (3,900 masl). It takes about one hour to walk all the way around it.

4 5 La Virgen del Cajas, near the Park.

Due to the abundance of aquatic habitats, the Park is an authentic paradise for amphibians. Fully 88% of those living in the Park are not found elsewhere, including the last highland jambatos, survivors of a group of frogs once very common in the country and now mostly extinct.

can see threatened species, such as the Xenodacnis and the Violet-throated Metaltail, a found only in the Park. These facts demonstrate the Park’s importance as a refuge for unique species threatened with extinction, as well as an incredible water reserve. For this reason, Cajas has been declared a RAMSAR Wetland of International Importance and a BirdLife Important Bird Area (IBA). Together, these natural elements –water, geography, living beings, and climate– are key to the enchantment that characterizes this nature park in the south of the country. The plant paposa grows in cushion- like “almohdillas” to withstand frosts. Biodiversity and endemism in CNP*

CNP % of Ecuador / no. % of no. of species endemism of species national total Flora 500 14.20 15,306 3.27 Mammals 43 18.70 380 11.31 Birds 150 9.33 1,616 9.28 Amphibians 17 88.23 464 3.66 Reptiles 4 25.00 416 0.96 Ecosystems: Páramo, High Andean Forest

* These figures are, of necessity, estimates and subject to change. Sources: Arbeláez and Vega, Cajas is the Mecca for the 2008; Jade 2007; Sánchez and Carbone, 2005; Tinoco and Astudillo, 2005; Ulloa et al., 2005. best rock climbers in the 6 country. 7 79°20'0"W 79°10'0"W PROVINCE OF CAÑAR N

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San Luis S Peak L. Totoras PROVINCE Tres Cruces city Peak L. Toreadoras OF AZUAY village ilda L. Patoquinuas Hu Panam. Highway L. Illincocha Avilahuayco main road Huagrauma Peak C access u secondary road Santa María l e a b river L. Larga r p i s l l province limit u a L L. Cucheros Quinuas s Park limit

Migüir B access summit u r i n Elevation e s V a L. Luspa l le y Río Blanco M a ta L. Las Chorreras L. Osohuaycu d L. Mamámag o L. Llaviucu e r Taitachungo o L 2°50'0"S L. Sunincocha lav CAJAS 2°50'0"S To Guayaquil iuc u Valley NATIONAL PARK MAP Surocucho L. Lagartococha Sources: ETI, 2011; Jarvis, 2008; MAE, 2011 access Credits: S. Crespo, P. Cabrera, X. Cordovez Ecuador Terra Incognita

M n a zá Jerez Creek zá a n M Valley Sayausí To Molleturo

S o l Cuenca d San Joaquín a d o s

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79°20'0"W 79°10'0"W One possible explanation for the name Cajas (Spanish for “boxes”) may refer to the Faces and many lagoons “boxed in” the Andean nooks. traces

The shortest route between the Andes and the sea

As beautiful as they are mysterious, the lagoons of Cajas are featured in countless stories of treasures and enchantments. According to popular wisdom, the mountain is kind or severe, depending on the attitude of the visitor.

he cold lands of Cajas have been occu- pied since ancient times. Among the 28 T archaeological sites found in the Park, there is evidence of human presence since the year 1800 B.C. It seems that Cajas was always a transit site, a shortcut to the sea. It was probably this condition that inspired trav- elers to risk the highlands, suffering the cold Cuenca) as the major city in the north of the is two to three meters wide, in the style and Ancient traders opened routes in exchange for the shorter route. empire, the Cañari route through Cajas be- with the cobblestone paving characteristic to the Coast that passed Between 500 A.D. and the mid-15th came even more important. A branch of the of the Incas. through Cajas, used later century, the Cañari people used this moun- Qhapaq Ñan (Inca Trail), visible even today, In the republican period, the route was by the Incas. There are few tain pass to trade products from the Paute was built on the trails of the Cañaris. This used again, and named the “García Moreno places in where Valley to the gulf of Guayaquil. Organized in road begins in Cuenca and, in Cajas, follows trail.” Caravans of mules transported the inter-Andean valleys are so chiefdoms, the Cañaries farmed the land and the Llaviucu Valley, the Mamámag Lagoon, all kinds of goods to Cuenca along this exchanged products with Amazon peoples. the Burines Valley, and leaves the Park pass- route. A parallel trail was used to transport close to the sea. When the Incas conquered the area, ing by the Luspa Lagoon in the direction of bootleg liquor when the liquor tax came around 1450, and named Tomebamba (today, Paredones de Molleturo, in the west. The trail into being. Names, such as “Dead Men’s

10 11 Plinth of an ancient edifice at the Paredones de Molleturo, close to the Park.

Cave” are due to the traders who attempted to spend the night in the páramo; surprised by bad weather, they never woke up. Communities around the Park have been inhabited by Cañaris, Incas, and mes- tizo muleteers and traders. This heritage has provided grist for countless tales about the mountain as the source of life but also of suf- fering. It is believed that those who do not demonstrate reverence and gratitude enrage the divinities who unleash freezing rain. Famous spirits include Mama Huaca and the Mountain Indian. Both are benign spirits who protect the riches of Cajas. However, they can “enchant” hikers and take them away forever. Mama Huaca (from waka, family god or goddess) is the owner and protector of all animals and plants that live in these moun- tains. She is pictured as an old woman with long, shining hair and a humble air that dis- guises her power. Some hunters have seen her heal animals wounded by their bullets. The spirit known as the Mountain Indian, on the other hand, is the custodian of the lagoons and the gold hidden in their depths. To the south of the Park, the Soldados sector, through which the river also known as Soldados flows, is associated with the Inca’s troops, and their spirits still wander the páramo, guarding their lord’s treasure. More recently, at the end of the nineties, Cajas was the site of alleged appearances of the Virgin Mary which attracted huge crowds of the faithful. A sanctuary near the The Mama Huaca and eastern border of the Park continues to be the Mountain Indian are visited by pilgrims. legendary beings who guard Today, Cajas National Park is an important the treasures allegedly hidden space for recreation and nature exploration under the water. Among these for residents of Cuenca. The Park administra- are the mythical dowry of tion is decentralized and is a model of good Inca Atahualpa. management by a municipal government. The Andean rabbit is a common companion in the 12 Ecuadorean páramos. 13 N PROVINCE O E T o OF CAÑAR

Pa re S do nes Molleturo PROVINCE L. Playas Encantadas information lodging OF AZUAY uil To Guayaq

restaurant refuge

HUAGRAUMA ACCESS QUINUAS Tres Cruces ACCESS camping tourist Peak cycling Migüir Avilahuayco Peak excursion climbing

B u r i n e s panoramic archaeological v a view area ll ey L lav iuc u valley lookout bird To Molleturo point watching

SUROCUCHO ACCESS

forest lley ora Mazán va

fauna

city village Cuenca Panam. Highway main Road secondary road To Baños province limit Cuenca-Loja: 205 km Riobamba Cuenca-Azogues: 37 km trail L. Ventanas Azogues-Riobamba: 217 km Kapakñan trail Cuenca-Cajas: 21 km Loja-Cajas: 251 km García Moreno road To Loja Guayquil-Cajas: 140 km river Azogues protected area summit

TOURIST MAP OF Cuenca CAJAS NATIONAL PARK

Sources: ETI, 2011; Jarvis et al., 2008; MAE, 2011 To Credits: Esteban Garcés y Ximena Cordovez Loja Ecuador Terra Incognita Few places are as ideal as Cajas for understanding the “sponge” function of the páramos. Seen below is Togliacocha Lagoon, near one of the three Not to be branches of the Inca Road inside the Park. missed

Toreadora - Illincocha sector

The Park’s touristic heart

his is an ideal site for an initial T meeting with the Park. The informa- tive visitor’s center provides a useful general overview, before walking the trail around Toreadora Lagoon and returning to the restaurant for a delicious meal of fresh trout. The more adventurous can try climbing the nearby rock walls. This is also one of the best places in the Park for birdwatching. You will find birds typical of the páramo and wetlands, such as the Andean gull. The Illincocha forest is one of the few places in the country where you will see the rare Xenodacnis. The bird- watcher will also see other charismatic species, such as the Great Horned Owl and the Quinoa Bird (Giant Conebill), so named for its association with the quinoa tree. In Toreadora there is a parking lot, an information stand, and a mountain ref- uge. From here, you can walk to Illincocha in groups of no more than eight people, accompanied by a guide.

16 17 Taitachungo Lagoon was, initially, a Cañari settlement that grew after the Incas arrived, being a strategic point on the way to the Two names, a thousand stories Coast. It is located at the beginning of a steep descent from the cordillera, ith so many lagoons in the Park, where the páramo becomes cloud for- W it seems that there were not est. The combination of landscape, enough names to go around, so some Inca structures, and stunning sunsets were baptized in groups, such as the make this an excellent spot for taking “Burines” and the “Unidas” Lagoons. photos. However, access is not easy On the other hand, one lagoon has two and it is recommended that visitors names: Taitachungo and Mamámag. join guided excursions. Though access is somewhat difficult, the site is emblematic of the Park in the beauty of the surrounding land- scape. You get there from Toreadora, crossing the Burines Valley. This used to be a required passage on the route to the Coast. Nearby are the remains Llaviucu of pre-Inca stairs and foundations that were probably places for resting. From here, you can walk a stretch The best kept secret of the Inca Trail to the Luspa Cave, where there is a camping area for up his beautiful valley is character- to 10 people. The cave is an important T istically U-shaped, carved by the reference point along the trail. movement of ancient glaciers. The la- goon at the bottom of the valley, also named Llaviucu, is surrounded by reed beds and forests typical of the high Andes. There are two piers for trout pole-fishing and a camping area. In spite of its small size, the Llaviucu for- Paredones de Molleturo est is full of life, being one of the most diverse places in the Park. It is an ex- Vestiges of ancient splendor celent spot for watching forest, meadow, and aquatic birds. There are three easy- eyond the western border of the access trails: Uku, 2 kilometers long; Zig B Park, there is an archaeologi- Zag, 1.3 kilometers, and San Antonio, cal complex with the foundations of 2.7 kilometers. The last trail runs 400 dwellings, two large buildings, through the entire valley. a plaza, a monumental pyramid, and a staircase leading to three lookout points. The remains suggest that this The quinuas or queñuales grow in high Andean sheltered 18 areas and ravines. 19 Cajas is full of charming Things to do trails that ring its lagoons.

a map of routes and trails. • Some walks require a nature guide. Consult Park personnel before setting out. • Always tell someone at a checkpoint the route you intend to take. • Take a compass (and learn how to use it) or a GPS device. • Respect the vegetation and do Walks not walk off the trails. • When walking, take the altitude into account. • Take food rich in he best way to get to know Cajas National calories and sufficient liquids (avoiding throw- T Park is on foot. You will enjoy the prodigious away bottles and packaging). landscape of lakes and forest groves. There are Cajas National Park: (07) 237 0127 eight routes and five trails along which you There is no park entry fee. Guided walks cost can combine walking with other activities. It between US$ 30 and 60 per person. takes from a few minutes to two hours to walk the trails. The routes require a few hours or, if you want to really take your time, a few days. Rock Climbing There are camping sites along the way. An alternative is to combine the different he Park’s bare rock faces were created by trails of the Park’s central area, such as T glaciers moving through the mountains Toreadora and Illincocha, with the “Nature and thousands of years ago. Easy access and the Human History” route. This is an easy excur- amazing landscape make Cajas an excellent sion, near the visitors’ center, which goes by place for this sport. There are a number of op- a number of lagoons, lookout points, quinua tions, including 30 equipped routes grouped (paper tree) forests, and the famous García in seven climbing areas: Cochuma, Chica Moreno trail, an emblematic route which, in Toreadora, Cerro San Luis, Toreadora, Godzila, the 19th century, connected Cuenca and the La Proa and Las Vírgenes. The degree of dif- port of Guayaquil. The more adventurous can ficulty goes from short climbs for beginners combine the Llaviucu trails with the “Inca Trail to overhangs and boulders requiring a high and Larger Lagoons” route, which begins in degree of technical skill. Remember to climb the Huagrahuma area in the Park’s western with a qualified guide. sector. From there, it follows the northern bank of the Luspa Lagoon, going east, and goes Most climbing sites are in the northern through the Burines Valley, descending to the sector, a short distance from the Cuenca- Molleturo-Naranjal highway. Access to the Chica valley of the Taitachugo or Mamámag Lagoon. Toreadora, Cerro San Luis, and Toreadora sites There you will see Cañari-Inca vestiges and is via the Toreadora trail. You get to Godzila from continue along the Inca Trail until you get to the the highway, southwest of the restaurant at La forested area of the Llaviucu sector, where you Toreadora. Access to La Proa is via the route to will come to the San Antonio trail. the Burines Valley. The wall in the Cochuma area is outside the Park and access is on foot (one All the Park’s routes and trails are in the hour, approximately) from the Tres Cruces sector, northern area and are accessible from the Cuenca- near the highway, to the northwest. Access to Molleturo highway. Las Vírgenes is from the Quinuas check point At the Park entrance you will receive toward the Padre Urcu mountain.

20 21 Always go with experienced guides who are familiar with the area. • Take equipment in good repair: helmet, harness, ropes and carabiners. • Use wool fingerless gloves that protect from the cold but leave the fingers bare for better grip and sensation.

Birdwatching

ajas National Park is a site in C southern Ecuador not to be missed by birders, both beginners and experts. It is an important refuge for 150 species, including nine endangered species, one that is found nowhere else in the world (the Violet-throated Metaltail humming- bird) and five migratory species. Thus, together with the neighboring Mazán Protected Forest, Cajas is part of the “Cajas-Mazán Important Bird Area.” In ad- dition to the eye-catching Violet throated Metaltail, there are 23 additional species of . A quinua grove next to Illincocha Lagoon is one of the few places where you can see the rare Tit-like Dacnis. With a little bit of luck, you will also see condors in the Playas Encantadas sector.

The Toreadora Sector is a good place for watching páramo and aquatic birds. Nearby, on the other side of the highway, is the trail to Illincocha, with entry restricted to a maximum of eight people at a time, accompanied by a guide. Take waterproof binoculars with you. • Walk in small groups and be quiet. • Wear clothing in muted colors so as to be less obvious to the birds. Cajas National Park: (07) 237 0127 Birdwatching excursions leave from Cuenca and Guayaquil and cost between US$ 60 and 100 per person per day. The rainbow starfrontlet is an endemic hummingbird of southern 22 Ecuador and northern Peru. 23 Getting there If you live in low areas, it is recommended • The Illincocha trail receives special that you become gradually acclimated to management because it is the habitat of the higher altitude before visiting the park. the Tit-like Dacnis, a bird in danger of ex- Blood pressure sometimes drops at high tinction. A maximum of eight visitors are altitudes and eating something sweet helps permitted at one time and they must be to bring it back up. You should also eat well, accompanied by a guide. keep hydrated, and get enough sleep. If, in spite of these precautions you are affected • Given the danger fires represent, by “soroche” (altitude sickness), take a nap campfires are not allowed. If you plan to and if that does not help, get to a lower camp, take a gas-powered camping stove altitude as soon as possible. or something similar. entrance, without going to Cuenca (though Transportation • You will be given a bag for garbage at this is not very practical if you have When to visit the Park entrance which you should leave checked-in luggage). at one of the control points on your way BY LAND Any time is a good time to visit, although out; personnel will take care of it in an You can travel by plane from Quito it rains less between October and Jahuay, Panamericana, Patria, appropriate fashion. Take special care From (55 minutes; US$ 102 round trip) or January. Because the daily number of Quito Santa and Sucre bus companies that paper and plastic items are not Quitumbe Guayaquil (50 minutes; US$ 150 round trip). visitors is limited, you should call the Bus Station Between 8 and US$ 9-12 swept away by the wind. 12 hours Park and make a reservation before Safety and health visiting (07) 237 0127. Office hours are From Oriental, Súper Taxis Cuenca Guayaquil and Ejecutivo San Luis bus companies Monday to Friday, 08:00 am to 4:00 pm. Important contact information Bus Terminal Tours can be arranged in Cuenca. 4 hours US$ 8 In general, you should take the usual - 1 800 TURISMO (1 800 887 476) From Súper Taxis Cuenca, Sucre precautions required for high altitude: Cuenca and Occidental bus companies Sustainable tourism tips Bus Terminal clothing for the cold, since temperatures - Cajas National Park (ETAPA): 25 minutes can get as low as 5° C during the day (07) 237 0127 / (07) 237 0128 (buses leave hourly US$ 1-1.50 • Páramo vegetation is fragile and takes between 7:00 am and below 0 °C at night. Rain is fre- - Ministry of the Environment, Cuenca: and 5:00 pm) a long time to regenerate. Thus, visitors quent and unpredictable, so waterproof (07) 287 1694 jacket and pants are needed, as well as are required to stay on the trails. The main entrance to Cajas National Park plastic bags and covers for clothing and - Ministry of Tourism, Cuenca: is along the Cuenca-Molleturo-Naranjal equipment. • Taking plants out of the Park and (07) 286 5642 / (07) 286 2953 highway, which goes through the northern hunting in the Park are prohibited. - Municipal Government, Cuenca, part of the Park. This road connects Cuenca To take the routes, which require hours Tourism Department: (07) 282 1035 and Guayaquil. You can enter the Llaviucu of walking, you must have a guide. This is • Pets are not allowed in the Park due - Bus Terminal, Cuenca: Valley via the same highway, turning off at not necessary for the trails. Maps and a to the danger they pose for Park species. (07) 284 2023 kilometer 17 onto a cobblestone road which compass or GPS-enabled device are recom- you follow for two kilometers until coming to mended as the terrain is irregular and fog • Trout is an introduced species that - Hospital, Cuenca: (07) 288 5595 the Surocucho checkpoint. There is no public often makes it difficult to determine where affects native species, such as toads, - Police, Cuenca: (07) 408 8985 transportation from this point, but the walk you are. It is preferable to walk only until aquatic invertebrate and the preñadilla, is only about 20 minutes. 4:00 to take advantage of better visibility; a native fish species. For that reason, after that time, the fog becomes heavier. To visitors are allowed and encouraged to Entrance to all PANE continental Those traveling from Guayaquil by be safer, you should indicate at one of the pole fish for trout in the Park. However, protected areas is free for bus can get off at the Cajas National Park checkpoints where you will be visiting. boats and swimming are not allowed. residents and foreigners.

24 25 Directory Lodging

address reference price contact category Tour Operators Prices are per guest and include taxes but not breakfast, unless otherwise indicated.

Activities 1. Camping 2. Guided walks 3. Inca Trail 4. Fishing 5. Birdwatching Cuenca Hostal Las Tejas Pensión Cofradía del Monje García Moreno w/n Presidente Córdova 10-33 Hostal Bristol 13.44 29-35 (high or low season) Cuenca Terradiversa the Travel Center Ecoandes Travel Hurtado de Mendoza 1-50 (07) 225 0175 (07) 283 1251 (07) 282 3782 (02) 222 0892 (07) 286 1231 third first second Almíbartour [email protected] [email protected] Hostal El Manantial Pensión Nuestra Residencia www.terradiversa.com www.ecoandestravel.com (07) 282 6117 / 098 658 307 Hostal Huayna Capac España and Núñez de Bonilla Los Pinos 1-100 and Ordóñez Lasso 1 2 3 5 1 2 3 [email protected] Huayna Capac 3-57 and Bonilla 15 (includes breakfast and tax) 32 (includes breakfast and tax) 1 2 3 (07) 283 2655 (07) 284 3060 (07) 283 1702 Tinamu Tours Ecoleviajes Ecuador third first first Cazhuma Tours (07) 284 3064 / 098 066 085 (02) 223 7595 (07) 283 9959 / (07) 283 2052 [email protected] [email protected] Hostal Santa Fe Hostal El Monasterio Hostería Hacienda El Hato [email protected] www.tinamutours.com www.ecoletravel-ecuador.com Borrero 5-57 and Juan Jaramillo Padre Aguirre 7-24 and Sucre, piso 6 Panamericana Sur (between Cuenca and Loja) E35 Km 35 Nabón www.cazhumatours.com 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 6 (shared bathroom) 16.80 (includes breakfast and tax) 40 for a double (includes breakfast 1 2 3 (07) 282 2025 (07) 282 4457 and tax) second second Quito Enchanted Expeditions (07) 281 8724 Apullacta Expeditions [email protected] Andean Travel Company Pensión Andaluz 084 500 044 (07) 283 7815 www.enchantedexpeditions.com Hostal El Cajas [email protected] (02) 222 8487 Mariano Cueva 12-21 and Sangurima [email protected] 1 2 3 Tarqui 7-29 and Sucre www.haciendaelhato.com [email protected] 7 18 www.apullacta.com (07) 282 7292 second 1 2 3 4 5 www.andeantc.com Galacruises Expeditions (07) 282 6627 third 1 2 3 (02) 250 9007 second Hostería Dos Chorreras Hualambari Tours [email protected] Km 22 on the way to Cajas Campustrekking Hostal Cutilkay Hostal Casa del Barranco 50 (includes breakfast and tax) (07) 282 7598 www.galacruises.com (02) 234 0601 Abdón Calderón 2-27 Calle Larga 9-41 and Luis Cordero (07) 404 1999 1 2 3 [email protected] [email protected] 8 21.90 098 810 197 www.hualambari.com (07) 225 0133 [email protected] www.campustrekking.com Geo Reisen (07) 283 9763 1 2 3 4 third www.hosteriadoschorreras.com 1 2 3 second (02) 292 0583 / 095 220 726 first Metropolitan Touring [email protected] Pensión La Casa Cuencana Contactour Pensión La Posada del Rey (07) 283 4732 / (07) 283 4930 www.georeisen-ecuador.com Hermano Miguel 4-45 and Calle Larga (02) 226 3820 / (02) 224 40173 Benigno Malo and Presidente Cór- Apart Hotel Otorongo [email protected] 1 2 3 8.96 (includes kitchen access to 12 de Abril and Guayas [email protected] dova www.metropolitan-touring.com prepare your own meals) 25 (includes breakfast and tax) 60 (suite) www.contactour.com 1 2 3 4 5 Mirametours Ecuador (07) 282 6009 (07) 284 3845 (07) 281 8205 third 1 2 3 (02) 323 8370 first first [email protected] South-Land Turismo Cretertur www.mirametours.com Hostal Samay Hostería Cabañas de Narancay (07) 283 3126 / 093 933 087 (02) 222 2166 1 2 Tomás Ordóñez 11-86 Hostal La Castellana Panamericana Sur km 1 [email protected] [email protected] 10 Luis Cordero 10-47 and Gran Colombia 70.56 www.southlandtouring.com www.cretertours.com (07) 283 1119 26.43 (07) 289 2360 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 second (07) 280 9281 second first 26 27 Below is a short list of some outstanding wildlife found in Cajas. Given the extraordinary diversity in this area, it is, of necessity, an incomplete list. Enjoy filling it in!

Mammals Slate-coloured Coot Mountain-crest Robber Frog* Fulica ardesiaca Pristimantis vidua Series director: Andrés Vallejo Editorial design and edition: Nadesha Montalvo Andean Fox or Wolf • Masked Flowerpiercer Robber Frogs* Lycalopex culpaeus Texts: David Parra Diglossa cyanea Pristimantis riveti, P. ruidus Design: Esteban Garcés White-tailed Deer Scarlet-bellied Mountain-tanager and P. philipi Photographic research: Alegría Acosta and Martina Avilés Odocoileus peruvianus Anisognathus igniventris Maps: Susana Crespo and Pablo Cabrera Llama Reptiles and fish Map coordination: Ximena Cordovez Tawny Antpitta English translation: Mary Ellen Fieweger Lama glama Grallaria quitensis Perracca’s Whorltail Iguana* Text revision: David Padgham Chucuri o Andean Weasel Turquoise Jay Stenocercus festae Mustela frenata Photo credits: Rafael Cárdenas / Biographica (table of contents); Cyanolyca turcosa Mountain Lizard Jorge Anhalzer / ETAPA (cover:lagoon, 4, 11, 20); Afuera Producciones (6:columns); Grey-bellied Shrew Opossum* Golden-plumed Parakeet Pholidobolus montium Patricio Mena (6:flowers); Esteban Barrera (6:climber); Pete Oxford / Archivo Criollo (12:rabbit); Caenolestes caniventer Leptosittaca branickii Carlos Galindo (12:rock walls); Juan Carlos Astudillo (17:páramo); Yanuncay River Kingsnake Valentí Zapater (18:hiker); Murray Cooper (23) Ecuadorean Small-eared Shrew* Rainbow Starfrontlet • Philodryas simonsii Cryptotis montivaga Coeligena iris Brown trout (introduced)• Coordination, Ministry of Tourism: Mónica Burbano Montalvo and Liliam Figueroa Rabbit • Andean Guan Salmo trutta Revision, Ministry of Tourism: Undersecretaryship for Tourism Management, Undersecretaryship for Tourism Promotion and Undersecretaryship for Information and Communication Sylvilagus brasiliensis Penelope montagnii Rainbow trout (introduced) Revision, Ministry of the Environment: National Biodiversity Directorate and Area Chief Red Andean Mouse* Grey-breasted Mountain-toucan Oncorhynchus mykiss Thomasomys auricularis Andigena hypoglauca Catfish or preñadilla • Haggard’s Leaf-eared mouse* Astroblepus spp. Phyllotis haggardi Water birds Aquatic Cajas Mouse* Flora Chibchanomys orcesi Andean Teal Anas andium Quinua or paper tree • References Unexpected Cotton Rat* • Arbeláez, Ernesto and Amanda Vega, 2008. Guía de Anfibios, Reptiles y Peces del Parque Nacional Sigmodon inopinatus Silvery Grebe Polylepis spp. Cajas. Etapa, Cuenca Podiceps occipitalis Andean Horsetail • Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2010. Ecuador: Turismo en Áreas Protegidas. Ministry of Tourism, Quito Puma • Rivera, Jade, 2007. Parque Nacional Cajas. In: ECOLAP and MAE. Guía del Patrimonio de Áreas Puma concolor Andean Gull Equisetum bogotense Naturales Protegidas del Ecuador. ECOFUND / FAN / DarwinNet / IGM, Quito Larus serranus • Rodríguez, Santiago and Xavier Contreras, 2005. Guía de Rutas del Parque Nacional Cajas. Kichwa porcupine* Manzana cashpi Etapa, Cuenca Coendou quichua Hesperomeles obtusifolia • Sánchez, Francisco and Miguel Carbone, 2005. Guía de Mamíferos del Parque Nacional Cajas. Amphibians Etapa, Cuenca Mountain Paca Rosette bromeliad • Tinoco, Boris and Pedro Astudillo, 2005. Guía de Campo para Observación de Aves del Parque Nacional Cuniculus taczanowskii Ucug* Puya spp. Cajas. Etapa, Cuenca • Ulloa, Carmen; Samara Álvarez, Peter Jørgensen and Danilo Minga, 2005. Guía de 100 Plantas Telmatobius niger Almohadillas Silvestres del Páramo del Parque Nacional Cajas. Etapa, Cuenca Birds Harlequin Frog* • Azorella pedunculata, • Villa, José, 2003. Plan de manejo integral del Parque Nacional Cajas. Cemaprimes / Ministerio del Ambiente, Cuenca Atelopus exiguus Plantago rigida, etc. Tit-like Dacnis • Toreadora sedge* This document may be cited as: Xenodacnis parina Black Harlequin of Tres Cruces* • Atelopus nanay Carex toreadora Ecuador Terra Incognita, 2012. Informative brochure for sustainable tourism in Cajas National Violet-throated Metaltail* • Chuquiragua Park. Ministry of Tourism / Ministry of the Environment, Quito Metallura baroni Azuay Marsupial Frog* Gastrotheca litonedis Great Horned Owl • Borrachera © Ministry of Tourism of Ecuador, 2012 Bubo virginianus San Lucas Marsupial Frog* Gastrotheca pseustes Pernettya prostrata Giant Conebill • Shuspilla Produced by: Oreomanes fraseri Boulenger Rocket Frog* Berberis lutea e ejempla st r, Hyloxalus vertebralis r e po a r d r fa a v u o

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CONSCIOUS TOURISM Is Love for life

Conscious tourism is a life-transforming experience that leads to personal growth, making us better human beings.

This new concept is based on principles of sustainability and ethics, and promotes peace, friendship, respect, and love for life as the essence of tourism.

It is a pact to live together in a responsible, mutually respectful fashion, in communion with tour agents from sending and receiving communities, the tourist, and the natural and cultural heritage.

Conscious tourism is a living, dynamic concept in constant development. It is an experience in giving and receiving.

El Telégrafo E7-58 and Av. de los Shyris Av. 6 de Diciembre N59-161 and Manuel Zambrano Quito-Ecuador Telephone: (02) 399 9333