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POLAND Painstaking Postwar Reconstructionpainstaking of Oldtown © Lonely Planet Publications 868 lonelyplanet.com POLAND •• History 869 0 100 km POLAND 0 60 miles To Ystad; Ronne; To Karlskrona To Nynäshamn To Vilnius; Copenhagen St Petersburg Kaunas S÷OWI¯SKI P o l a n d B A L T I C S E A NP ÷eba Kaliningrad RUSSIA Ustka L‰bork Hel Gulf of Gda¬sk LITHUANIA Gdynia Bezledy S×upsk Sopot Ὀ Budzisko Ko×obrzeg Frombork HIGHLIGHTS Koszalin Gda¬sk Lidzbark Elbl†g Suwa×ki Mi‰dzyzdroje Warmi¬ski Wawel Hill Experience the beauty and history of Kraków’s magnificent castle, the home Gi¤ycko Ogrodniki WOLIN NP POMERANIA Elbl†g- Malbork and burial place of Polish kings for centuries ( p878 ) ±winouj¢cie Ostróda Miko×ajki Augustów Canal Hrodna Gdańsk Soak up the cosmopolitan vibe of the historic port city and taking a dip in the Szczecinek Ostróda Lubieszyn Olsztyn Great Masurian Lake District Ku§nica Baltic at nearby seaside towns ( p891 ) Szczecin Bia×ostocka Ko×baskowo Grudzi†dz Wrocław Get into the bar, club and restaurant scene of this lively student city ( p887 ) ÷om¤a Bia×ystok Bydgoszcz Che×mno MAZOVIA Warsaw Rising Museum Discover Warsaw’s tragic wartime history via this modern mu- Krajnik Dolny Pi×a Ostro׉ka Toru¬ BIA÷OWIE¨A seum’s audiovisual exhibits ( p875 ) WIELKOPOLSKA Ciechanów NP PODLASIE Gorzów Wielkopolski Inowroc×aw Bia×owie¤a Off-the-beaten track Enjoy the skiing or hiking life in the southern Tatra Mountains ( p883 ) Kostrzyn Hajnówka Vistula Bug Warta BELARUS Frankfurt/Oder W×oc×awek P×ock Gniezno To Minsk Šcwiecko Pozna¬ To Berlin Konin Kutno WARSAW FAST FACTS GERMANY Odra Rogalin Kórnik Terespol Siedlce Brest Gubin Zielona ÷owicz Vis Góra t Area 312,685 sq km (roughly the size of Leszno ula Kalisz Cottbus Olszyna ÷ód§ France) Sieradz ÷éknica SILESIA Pu×awy ATMs Widespread Radom To Dresden Zgorzelec Piotrków Lublin Dorohusk S Kazimierz Budget From around 100zł per day in Zawidów ud Wielu¬ Trybunalski et Wroc×aw Dolny Warsaw Jelenia en Che×m Góra M MA÷OPOLSKA o Kielce POLAND Sieniawka un Brzeg t Cz‰stochowa Sandomierz Capital Warsaw Jakuszyce Wa×brzych ai Zamo¢¦ n Opole Goli¬sk s K×odzko Country Code 048 Nysa San % Kudowa-S×one Gliwice Tarnobrzeg G×ucho×azy Katowice Hrebenne POLAND POLAND Famous for Chopin, Copernicus, Marie Hradec PRAGUE Králové Boboszów Rzeszów ÷a¬cut Curie, Solidarity, vodka Cha×upki Kraków Pietrowice O¢wi‰cim Lviv Tarnów Przemy¢l Head of State President Lech Kaczyński Ostrava Bielsko-Bia×a Nowy S†cz Medyka To Kyiv; Cieszyn Rabka Sanok Language Polish Olomouc Odesa Population 38 million Chy¤ne Piwniczna r p a t h B i C a i a e s Tatra NP M n z o c z Money złoty (zł); A$1=2.33zł; Time GMT/UTC + 1 Zakopane Konieczna u n M a CZECH ÷ysa Polana t o d UKRAINE Tatra a u y CA$1 = 2.72zł; €1=3.87zł; ¥100 = 2.70zł; REPUBLIC Rysy (2499m) i n Visas Not required for EU citizens; US, Mountains Barwinek n t s a NZ$1 = 1.96zł; UK£1=5.56zł; US1$=3.09zł Poprad i Prešov n Canadian, New Zealand and Australian s To Vienna; SLOVAKIA Košice To Phrases Dzień dobry (good morning), Ile to citizens do not need visas for stays of less Bratislava Budapest kosztuje? (how much is it?), dziękuję (thank than 90 days. you) Away from these major centres, regional cities such as urbane Gdańsk, cultured Wrocław and lively Poznań exude a cosmopolitan energy that’s a heady mix of old and new. Poland’s landscape TRAVEL HINTS is also diverse, from its northern sandy beaches to its magnificent southern mountains. Hotel weekend rates are often less expensive. It’s also worth asking if a hotel has cheaper rooms Poland is still good value for travellers, with an inexpensive transport system that makes it easy than the posted rate. to get around. As Poland continues to reconcile its new-found European identity with its hard- won political and cultural freedoms, it’s a fascinating time to visit this beautiful country. ROAMING POLAND (1333–70). Soon after, Poland and Lithuania From Warsaw, head to Kraków. Take a day trip to Zakopane, before continuing to Wrocław. Fin- HISTORY Poland’s history started in the early Middle were united as the largest state in Europe, ish up at seaside Gdańsk. Ages with the Polanians (People of the Plains). stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea. Mieszko I, Duke of the Polanians, adopted The 18th century was a period of disaster and A flat, fertile nation in the centre of Europe, often surrounded by conquest-happy empires, can Christianity in 966 and embarked on a suc- decline. Russia, Prussia and Austria repeatedly expect life to be turbulent at times. And that’s been the experience of Poland, as it’s grappled cessful campaign of conquest. divided Polish territory between them; by 1795, with centuries of war, invasion and foreign occupation. Nothing, however, has succeeded in Encroachment from Germanic peoples led Poland had vanished from the map of Europe. suppressing the Poles’ strong sense of nationhood and cultural identity, as exemplified by the to the relocation of the royal capital from Finally, upon the end of WWI the old imperial ancient royal capital of Kraków, with its breathtaking castle, and bustling Warsaw, with the Poznań to Kraków in 1038. However, the king- powers dissolved, and a sovereign Polish state painstaking postwar reconstruction of its devastated Old Town. dom prospered under Kazimierz III ‘the Great’ was restored. 870 TRANSPORT •• Getting There & Away lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com TRANSPORT •• Getting There & Away 871 On 1 September 1939, a Nazi blitzkrieg Dublin is serviced by Ryanair (May to Octo- services (six hours, three daily). There are rained down from the west; soon after, the READING UP ber), Sky Europe and Aer Lingus. also connections between Warsaw and Co- Soviets invaded Poland from the east. The God’s Playground: A History of Poland, by logne, Dresden, Frankfurt-am-Main and Germans then used Poland as a base for Norman Davies, offers an in-depth analysis Boat Leipzig; between Kraków and Berlin, via invading the Soviet Union. By the time the of Polish history, and his Rising ‘44 vividly Polferries (www.polferries.pl) Runs between Gdañsk Wrocław; and between Gdańsk and Berlin, Nazi regime was finally ousted at the end of covers the wartime Warsaw Rising. Jews in and Nynäshamn (18 hours) in Sweden. Also operates from via Szczecin. WWII, six million Poles had died, including Poland, by Iwo Cyprian Pogonowski, pro- Świnoujście to Ystad (9½ hours, daily) in Sweden; Rønne Trains to/from Prague serve Warsaw (nine the country’s three million Jews, who were vides a comprehensive record of Polish- (six hours, Saturday) in Denmark; and Copenhagen (10½ to to 10 hours, two daily), Wrocław (seven hours, brutally annihilated in death camps. Jewish history. Also of interest is Alan 11 hours, five weekly). one daily) and Kraków (8½ hours, one daily). After WWII, Poland endured four decades Furst’s spy thriller The Polish Officer. Stena Line (www.stenaline.com) Between Gdynia and To/from Vienna, trains connect with Warsaw of Soviet-dominated communist rule. Finally, Karlskrona (11 hours) in Sweden. (eight to nine hours, three daily) and Kraków in 1990 Solidarity leader Lech Wałęsa became Unity Line (www.unityline.pl) From Świnoujście to Ystad (7½ hours, one daily). Poland’s first postwar democratically elected literature developed in Kraków. Among its (eight hours). Note that some international trains to/from president. most notable representatives were the writer Poland have become notorious for theft. Keep The postcommunist transition brought Stanisław Wyspiański (1869–1907). Any travel agency in Scandinavia will sell a grip on your bags, particularly on the Berlin– radical changes, but within a decade Poland The most famous Polish musician was tickets for these services. In Poland, inquire Warsaw, Prague–Warsaw and Prague–Kraków had rebuilt the foundations of a market econ- undoubtedly Frédéric Chopin (1810–49), at Orbis Travel (%022-827 72 65; ul Bracka 16) in War- overnight trains, and on any train travelling omy. Poland joined the EU in May 2004. whose music displays the melancholy and saw, or its branches in other cities. to/from Gdańsk. If possible, sleep in a com- In the 2005 elections, the nation swung nostalgia that became hallmarks of the na- partment with others. sharply to centre-right parties, underlined tional style. Bus Trains travel between Budapest and War- by the presidential election victory of Lech Poland’s most renowned painter was Jan International bus services are cheaper than saw (14 hours, one daily) via Bratislava. The Kaczyński, well known for his social con- Matejko (1838–93), whose monumental his- trains, but not as comfortable or fast. train between Budapest and Kraków (11 servatism. In a bizarre twist of political fate, torical paintings hang in galleries throughout The Polish national bus company PKS hours, one daily) follows a different route Kaczyński’s identical twin brother Jarosław the country. (%022-652 23 21; www.pekaesbus.com.pl) runs doz- through Košice in eastern Slovakia. was appointed as Prime Minister in July Poland has produced several world-famous ens of buses each week from Warsaw to all Warsaw has direct train links with Kyiv POLAND 2006. film directors including Roman Polański, who major cities in Germany. (Ukraine), Minsk (Belarus), and Moscow. directed hits such as Rosemary’s Baby and From Warsaw, Eurolines (%032-351 20 20; www There are also trains running between POLAND POLAND THE CULTURE Chinatown; and Krzysztof Kieślowski, best .eurolinespolska.pl) operates regular buses to and Gdańsk and Kaliningrad (five hours, one Due to Nazi genocide and the forced resettle- known for the Three Colours trilogy.
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