River Cruising in Europe

Home , Albertina, Blue Church, Great War Island, Greco Deco, Hans Makart, Henry II style

TRAVEL GUIDE River Cruising in Europe Welcome on Board! Inside these pages you‘ll find insider tips, city highlights, and where to find some of the most beautiful sites along your AMADEUS journey. Whether you join us on an excursion or explore on your own, these insights will help you to get the most out of your time ashore. Scattered throughout these pages is information on our eco-fri- endly stops as well as historical tidbits. The beauty and history of Europe is at your fingertips. Whether you like to plan in advance or read on site, we are excited to share Europe, the AMADEUS Way. Index

2 overview map 42 Danube Europe 43 Bavaria (Bavarian Forest) 44 Regensburg 4 Netherlands 45 Passau & Belgium 48 Austria 5 Netherlands 49 Linz 6 Amsterdam 50 Salzburg 9 Rotterdam 52 Wachau 11 Middelburg 52 Vienna 11 Arnhem 56 Slovakia 12 Belgium 57 Bratislava 13 Antwerp 60 Hungary 14 Ghent 61 Esztergom 62 Szentendre 16 Rhine 62 Budapest 17 Western Germany 65 Puszta 18 Cologne 65 Kalocsa 20 Koblenz 66 Serbia 21 Cochem 67 Novi Sad 22 Rüdesheim 68 Belgrade 24 Heidelberg 71 Iron Gate 25 Speyer 72 Romania 26 France 73 Bucharest 27 Strasbourg 75 Danube Delta 30 Switzerland 31 Basel 76 rhÔne & Saône 77 Southern France 34 main 78 Lyon 35 Bavaria (Franconia) 79 Mâcon 36 Wertheim 80 Chalon-sur-Saône 36 Würzburg 80 Avignon 38 Bamberg 82 Arles 40 Nuremberg 83 Ardèche 84 seine 85 Northern France Symbols 86 Paris yz Insider-Tip 89 Les Andelys 89 Rouen h Highlight 91 Honfleur a Scenic sight 92 Le Havre Nature stop: For ecological 95 Étretat g opportunities 96 I mprint

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document4628168747960538964.indd 3 08.11.2017 16:15:20 netherlands & Belgium

NETHERLANDS

Amsterdam t s a o C ch ut D Rotterdam Arnhem

Middelburg R h in e

s r e Antwerp d n a l

F Ghent

BELGIUM

document6619504470890385880.indd 4 08.11.2017 16:15:16 NETHERLANDS & BELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

Amsterdam t s a o C ch ut D Rotterdam Arnhem

Middelburg R h in e s r WELCOME TO THE e Antwerp d n a l

F Ghent NETHERLANDS!

“Thinking about Holland, I see broad rivers slowly moving through endless lowlands.” Every Dutch schoolchild knows the first verse of Hendrik Marsman’s poem. Water plays an important role in this country – from the water to its north to that of the BELGIUM many rivers, lakes, waterways and canals covering the country like a fine net. The Rhine river from Germany and the Moselle river from Belgium flow across the country and into the sea at Rotterdam. Both rivers separate the Netherlands as if into two parts. While the people of the bo- ven de grote rivieren (above the great rivers) are mainly Protestant in character, the people of the Catholic south (beneden de grote rivieren) are characterized as those who enjoy the fine things in life, who enjoy food and drink, who celebrate the annual carnival and who are generally more carefree than the people of the north. However, the North Sea is also important, with its beaches drawing many tourists.

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guinage today. However, the last remai- Amsterdam ning beguine died in 1971.

Amsterdam has no fewer than 8,500 Nieuwmarkt h historical monuments to offer. Most of Extending around the old weighing them lie within easy walking distance of house in the red light district is Nieuw- each other in the city center – either in markt: a marketplace with many ter- De Wallen, the oldest part of the city, or races, music cafés and Asian food in the Grachtengordel, Amsterdam’s ca- eateries. It received its name in the four- nal district. teenth century when a section of the No one should leave the city without first Kloveniersburgwal was drained to crea- having extensively wandered along the te more space. It originally served as a Singel, Herengracht, Keizersgracht or the cattle market and execution site. Today, Prinsengracht neighborhoods. But some it is the site of a food market from Mon- of the newer and less well-known districts day to Saturday, as well as the occasional are also worth a trip. Those wishing to antique and book market. Due to the size first get an overview of Amsterdam should of the square, in summer it is possible to climb the Westertoren tower of the Wes- enjoy the last rays of sun on the café ter- terkerk. races right up until sunset. And those wishing to see the highlights of Dutch art history don’t have to go far Oude Kerk h in the city: The Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Amsterdam’s main and oldest church Museum and Stedelijk Museum are the was built in 1300. Originally its patron country’s three most important museums saint was Saint Nicolas, who is the pat- and are all located in the Museumplein. ron saint of sailors. As a result of the ex- tensions made to it over the years, Oude Kerk is quite disparate in its appearance Places of Interest from the outside. The narrow aisles were Begijnhof h widened as early as 1350. Then the chan- An oasis of peace in the bustling city center. cel was enlarged, followed by the addi- A collection of white houses are clustered tion of the ambulatory. Several chapels around a small church and a few chestnut were added in the fifteenth century and trees; the miniature gardens are lovingly in the sixteenth century, the nave and tended. Founded in 1346, the beguinage tower were heightened. The construc- was originally located at the edge of the tion was reinforced with wooden balco- city. It was populated by single women li- nies, despite the risk of fire, because the ving in a religious community, but who sandy ground would not have otherwise didn’t wish to become nuns. They prima- been able to support the weight. Today, rily dedicated themselves to caring for the the church is home to temporary exhibi- elderly. Two fires almost completely dest- tions of modern art. royed the courtyard in the fifteenth century. Most of the building work today originates Grachtenring h from the seventeenth century. In contrast, The fully intact historic ensemble of the house number 34 was built in 1470 and is Grachtengordel is literally Amsterdam’s supposedly the oldest house in the Nether- largest attraction. lands. Around 100 people still live at the be- The old city canals of the Singel, as well

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The fiets (bike) is the most popular bread; construction workers would form of transport in the Netherlands. also use them to transport bricks, and In the past, the streets were domina- fishmongers would sell from them – ted by the black Dutch bikes with back- until the bikes were replaced by cars. pedal brakes. However, the last few When the city became congested by years have seen a renaissance of the traffic, some inventive people recrea- bakfiets. These are longer bikes with ted the black bakfiets. This resulted in a crate attached to the front in which premium-quality, colorful, trendy mo- children or merchandise can be trans- dels which can be augmented with ported. The bikes were originally used children’s seats with seatbelt and Ple- in the 1930s by bakers to transport xiglas shells.

as the Herengracht, Keizersgracht, and ding was designed by the architect Pi- Prinsengracht, along with the countless erre Cuypers, who was also responsible smaller intersecting canals, encompass for the central train station. Embellished the Medieval city center in semi-circles. over and over, at first glance it is more Around 160 canals and 600 bridges co- reminiscent of a castle or cathedral than ver an area of around 8 km². The Grach- a museum. The entrance is located in a tengordel is a UNESCO World Heritage cycling and pedestrian tunnel beneath site. the building. On the far side of the modern foyer are halls with lavish historical Anne frank House h wall decorations and simply overwhel- “Dear Kitty...”: Every schoolchild knows ming amounts of art treasures that pri- the words that begin Anne Frank’s dia- marily focus on paintings of the Dutch ry entries. The Jewish girl hid for two ye- Golden Age. ars with her family in this house on the Prinsengracht during World War II – only van gogh Museum h to be deported to Bergen-Belsen close Who doesn’t know the paintings Sun- to its end, where she died. Today, the flowers, Bedroom in Arles and The Star- house is the headquarters of the Anne ry Night? Van Gogh is and remains one Frank Foundation as well as the site of of the most highly prized and popular a museum. The rear building is entered artists of all times. The city’s Van Gogh through a secret door that leads into the Museum houses one of the world’s lar- small apartment in which the family was gest collections of the Dutch Post-Im- forced to live. The original diary is also pressionist painter. The artist crea- part of the museum’s impressive exhibited about 2100 works of art during his tion. The museum is always busy: Buy ti- lifetime and left most of them to his ckets online in advance to avoid lengthy brother in thanks for his financial sup- lines. port. The paintings remained in the family for many years. In 1963 the fami- Rijksmuseum h ly bequeathed a collection of painitngs Opened in 1885, this magnificent buil- and drawings to the museum.

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yz HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM The largest branch museum of the famous Hermitage Museum of Saint Pe- tersburg is located in a wonderfully restored former deanery on the Amstel from the seventeenth century. It holds temporary exhibitions of objects from its pa- rent museum. The same building is also home to the Neva café restaurant, which has a patisserie and lunch menus based on the exhibits. In summer, its sun terrace is a fantastic place to sit. www.hermi- tageamsterdam.nl

SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM h The interior courtyard of the maritime museum is covered by a spectacular glass and steel dome. Beneath it, visitors can choose which interactive maritime experience they wish to dive into: Golden Age, whale hunting or Amsterdam’s harbor. got together to create a green area in Enthusiasts can also enjoy a path along their new residential neighborhood sou- historical navigation instruments, ship th of the Grachtengordel. Vondelpark is models and antique globes. It is also pos- home to a stage which is used for free sible to board and explore the Amster- open-air performances in summer. Di- dam moored in front of the museum. rectly behind it is the Blauwe Theehuis, This is a replica of a ship which sailed to which is probably Amsterdam’s sole beer and from the East Indies. garden.

VONDELPARK h SHOPPING Do not expect an oasis of peace: On sunny afternoons it is all but impossible to JACOB HOOY & CO h see the park for the people. Vondelpark Entering this spice store is like taking a is one of the city’s few green areas and trip back in time. 500 herbs and spices serves as a meeting place, cycling route, perfume the air. They are stored in woo- event location and playground for the lo- den drawers and barrels with gold lette- cal residents. In the Sixties, it was a gat- ring. Behind the counter are around 30 hering place for hippies from all over the jars of drop – salty or sweet Dutch liquo- world, who would occasionally camp rice. Kloveniersburgwal 10–12 there for months on end, until the po- lice ended the occupation in 1975. The yz KAASHUIS TROMP park’s origins were quite democratic. The Dutch and international cheeses are sta- 48 hectare park was created in 1877 as cked to the ceiling in this small store on Amsterdam’s first official public park and Utrechtsestraat. The staff are incredib- was named after the Renaissance poet ly helpful and offer samples. Utrechtse- Joost van den Vondel. Wealthy citizens straat 90

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Cube Houses

BIJENKORF h between Rotterdam and Hoek van Hol- Founded in 1870, the department store land was built, creating a better connec- is chic and upscale. Gucci and similar tion to the sea. Trade ships were then able brands populate the marbled ground to once more sail to Rotterdam harbor. floor. The upper floors are home to more With its first refineries in the twen- affordable designer labels. Dam 1 tieth century, more and more oil tankers came as well. The large ships arriving at Rotterdam brought and still bring goods ROTTERDAM and immigrants, making the Netherlands’ second largest city a melting pot of nu- The city (population ~618,000) with merous nationalities. Europe’s largest harbor has transformed In recent years, the harbor has been syste- itself into a modern metropolis since the matically enlarged and fitted with ultra- end of World War II, one which is not modern container sites. The western point short on new architecture or internatio- of the harbor is transforming 20 km² of nal flair. the North Sea into container sites. For the Rotterdam has been In existence as an im- increasingly bigger container ships, new portant port since the tenth century, when harbor basins up to 20 m deep are being a few settlers set up residences at the river dredged. This land reclamation project is Rotte. Thanks to its favorable location at projected to cost 3 billion euros and plan- the North Sea, the city rapidly developed ned for completion in 2030. an important port. However, as the cargo World War II had devastating consequen- ships became bigger and the harbor ever ces for Rotterdam: City bombardments by shallower from sand, the city lost its im- the German Luftwaffe in 1940 killed 1000 portance. That didn’t change until the ni- people; the city center was almost com- neteenth century when Nieuwe waterway pletely reduced to ash and rubble. After

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Huig Aart Maaskant in 1960 even extends above the newer buildings with its height of 185 meters. From its top, it’s possible to see a large section of the Dutch coastline in clear weather. The elevator runs up along the facade and is not intended for those with a fear of heights. For a fee, the brave at heart can even abseil down past the surprised restaurant guests from a height of 100 meters.

CUBE HOUSES h At the old harbor, in the midst of the entertainment district, are these spectacular architectural creations by Piet Blom: the Blaakse Bos cube-shaped houses, which are set atop pillars at an angle. One of these cube homes, the Kijk Ku- bus (tour cube) is open to visitors. www. kubuswoning.nl De Witte Huis yz MARKTHAL the Second World War, in contrast to many Living, working and shoppingg in the other destroyed places, the city of Rotter- same building: All this is possible in the dam decided on a new, and occasionally spectacular horseshoe-shaped market brave, style for its redevelopment. This has hall not far from the city hall. Among resulted in the city boasting some of the the almost 100 stalls of fresh, often or- country’s most interesting urban architec- ganic, vegetables, meat, fish and ture in the Netherlands. A good example cheese vendors, the tapas bars, French of this is the partially adventurous over- fries stalls and eco-bars all vie for the at- building of the Wilhelmina Pier. tention of the visitors. The magnificent Flowing through the center of the city as ceiling comprised of 4000 colorful glass its lifeline is the Nieuwe Maas. The banks shards displays a still life of insects, fruit of the river are populated with land- and vegetables. The impressive const- marked buildings. The north and south of ruction can expand by up to 75 cm du- the city are connected by numerous ring heavy storms. www.markthalrotter- bridges and tunnels, including the Eras- dam.nl mus Bridge, which connects Kop van Zuid to the inner city and whose 139 meter- MUSEUM BOIJMANS high asymmetrical pylon makes it a pro- VAN BEUNINGEN h minent feature of the skyline. One of the most significant Dutch museums for both modern and classical art. The exhibition includes numerous works by re- PLACES OF INTEREST nowned artists, such as Rembrandt, Titi- EUROMAST a an, Monet, Gauguin, Picasso, Matisse, The slender tower built by the architect Kandinsky and Dalí. www.boijmans.nl

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also has an herb garden. Abdij 4 Shopping The L-shaped Lijnbaan was among shopping Europe’s first car-free shopping streets in 1953. Another shopping paradise is the Middelburg is well-known for its ethnic Beurspassage. Kop van Zuid is a renova- market on Thursdays. Many traders set ted neighborhood in the old city center up their stalls in front of the city hall. near the marina and is home to many designers, interior design stores and a huge exotic supermarket. arnhem

In September 1944, British paratroopers Middelburg landed in the provincial capital of Gel- derland (population ~150,000) to assu- h The old city gates and the handsome me control of the strategically important patricians’ houses remain to this day cha- Rhine Bridge. racteristic of the charming capital of the The Medieval town center was almost province of Zeeland with its 48,000 inha- completely destroyed during this and la- bitants. ter battles. In recent years, Arnhem has In the thirteenth century, the town on the made a name for itself particularly as a island of Walcheren was an important fashion center. A fashion biennale is held center for the textile industry. In the seven- in uneven years and many graduates of teenth century, the United East Indian the fashion and art academy have ope- Company was even based here. Nu- ned hip fashion or design stores in the merous warehouses serve as a reminder town (Trix en Rees | Bakkerstraat 70; Co- of the glory days of sea travel. The town ming Soon | Kerkstraat 23; The Globe | center, which was substantially destroyed Rijnstraat 20; Ami-e-toi | Weverstraat 23; by the German Luftwaffe during World Superduper | Kortestraat 28). War II, was rebuilt in the characteristic red brick style. places of interest Eusebiuskerk Sehenswertes a The three-aisled church was severely af- Abdij fected during the Battle of Arnhem. After The greatest attraction of this former mo- being restored, a glass panorama eleva- nastery is the 90 meter high octagonal tor was also added. This travels up past Lange Jan tower. During the summer, a Europe’s biggest carillon to a height of 93 concert with its 49 bells is held each Thurs- meters and a spectacular view. www.eu- day at noon. Today, the former monaste- sebius.nl ry serves a material purpose: It is the government building for the province of Netherlands’ Openlucht Museum Zeeland. A wing of the building also hou- On foot or by streetcar, a tour of this huge ses the Zeeuws Museum (www.zeeuws- open-air museum takes you past old museum.nl), which, among other things, farms, manor houses and workshops to has a collection of traditional costumes provide a glimpse of everyday Dutch life in from the region. The interior courtyard the past. www.openluchtmuseum.nl

document3611593252966507615.indd 11 08.11.2017 16:15:38 WELCOME TO BELGIUM!

Flanders. The mere mention of Belgium’s northernmost region conjures vivid pic- tures: cities with imposing city halls, impressive bell towers, belfries (Dutch: bel- forts), picturesque beguinages, and vibrant markeplaces. Museums full of masterpieces by artists such as Hans Memling, Hubert and Jan van Eyck, Peter Paul Rubens and Anthonis van Dyck. A coastline where the hospitality makes up for the occasionally miserable weather. The Romanesque exuberance for life expressed in the colorful processions, spirited festivals and culinary treats. Looking closer, the contrasts then become clear: between the towns and countryside, old and new.

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signed by the star architects Hans Koll- Antwerp hoff and Richard Meier. At the end of the Kattendijkdok, Zaha Hadid has Sinjoren, as the men of Antwerp proud- transformed the old customs buildings ly call themselves, while referring to into a futuristic new headquarters for their city (population ~505,000) as a the harbor management. Now and metropool. In the capital of Brussels, then a barge moors while the yachts they claim, money is handed out – in bob by the quayside. For all the gla- Antwerp, it is earned. mour, the atmosphere here is rawer All of Belgium laughs at this propensity than in the neighborhood of Zuid. for pomposity. But who can resent the sinjoren for regarding their city as the MAS h center of everything? Built in the old harbor by the architects Antwerp’s harbor is the second largest Willem Jan Neutelings and Michiel Riedi- in Europe. Four specialized markets jk for the MAS (Museum aan de Stroom), trade more than half of the diamonds the tower is made of sandstone and and precious stones in the world. Ant- corrugated glass expanses, and rises up werp also offers huge amounts of fa- to 60 meters. The Wandelboulevard with shion designers, painters and musici- escalators takes you up to the viewing ans, while enticing theater producers, platform on the tenth story, where a ge- dancers, poets and publishers to provi- nuinely captivating panoramic view of de a vibrant cultural scene. And all this the city and surrounding area awaits. The set against the city’s rich history: Loca- halls exclude natural light and illustrate ted on the banks of the Scheldt, in the the history of Antwerp, the development sixteen century, the city was one of of sea travel, and the everyday life and Europe’s most important centers of customs of the multicultural city. The trade and finance. Following the turmoil eighth story has an exquisite collection of of the religious wars, the Counter Refor- pre-Columbian delights to admire. The mation ushered in a second Golden Age forecourt is decorated by the giant Dead at whose center the painters Peter Paul Skull mosaic by Luc Tuymans. The muse- Rubens and Anthonis van Dyck shined. um also has a café with a beautiful terra- Despite heavy German bombardments ce, an excellent store and the Michelin during the winter of ‘44 to ‘45, many Star restaurant’t Zilte. Hanzestedenplaats buildings and art treasures survive from 1 | www.mas.be the glorious past of a city in which life pulses like nowhere else in Flanders. ModeNatie h The fascinating building by the architect Marie-José van Hee houses the fashion places of Interest museum MoMu. It features attractive ex- yz ’t Eilandje hibitions, the art academy’s fashion de- The old port is the new fashionable partment and cabinets for avant-garde neighborhood in the north of the city projects, as well as the Flanders’ Fashion and is a wonderful place to stroll Institute, which makes the city’s fashion through. Warehouses have been con- creators famous throughout the world. verted into lofts, theaters and discos. The fantastic library is public and freely Spectacular modern buildings were de- accessible. The Copyright bookstore

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(www.copyrightbookshop.be) is excel- trends. The Zuid neighborhood and Me- lently stocked. Nationalestraat 28 | www. chelse Steenweg are home to hip art gal- momu.be leries and interior design stores. Consci- enceplein and Leopoldstraat are where Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal h fine antiques can be found. Kloosterstra- The exterior of the Gothic Cathedral of Our at is great for bric-a-brac. Expensive jewe- Lady appears disjointed with its unfinished lers are located between Vestingstraat tower. Inside, the five-bay, wide nave is and Rijpstraat. impressive and is joined by the bright, raised transept and chancel. Famous Ru- bens paintings hang here: In the transept ghent are the Elevation of the Cross (1610) and the Descent from the Cross (1624). In the Ghent (population ~250,000) receives center of the Baroque high altar is the As- visitors with the liveliness of an old uni- sumption of the Virgin Mary (1626; the versity town. 65,000 students are strol- woman in red at the grave is Rubens’ first ling on its streets, chatting and partying. wife Isabella Brant, who died of the Alongside Antwerp, it is only Ghent that plague in 1626). The Resurrection of Christ offers a diverse nightlife and genuine cul- (1612) hangs in the second side chapel on ture scene in Flanders. The backdrop of the right. Regular organ concerts. Monday impressive monuments repeatedly re- evenings are for carillon concerts. The turns the city’s history to the forefront. view from the tower a is fabulous. Ghent had one of Europe’s wealthiest Handschoenmarkt | www.dekathedraal.be textile industries, along with confident citizens and guilds. And when the Holy Ro- R ubenshuis h man Emperor Charles V wanted to raise Peter Paul Rubens not only painted for a new war tax, Ghent was defiant. When Europe’s elite, he was also a passionate the textile industry flourished again in collector and skilled diplomat. The Re- the nineteenth century, the Flemish wor- naissance palace, which he commissi- kers’ movement began here. oned in 1610 – along with a pantheon for Today, Ghent has many wonderful sights his treasures, his studio and pleasance – to offer. The Lieve and Leie flow into the reflects his status. The highlights include Scheldt and are connected by canals and some of the most beautiful self-portraits waterways. Tree-lined banks make for a by the master. Regular world-class exhi- wonderful way to walk and let the city’s bitions. Wapper 9–11 | www.rubenshuis. diversity work on you. From the onset of be dusk to midnight, yz the city center is lit like a fairytale and during the Festival of Light (every three years in Ja- shopping nuary), designers and artists enchant the Antwerp is a shopping paradise. Store crowds with breathtaking effects on the chains dominate the Meir, luxury bou- city’s facades. tiques populate Huidevettersstraat and Schuttershofstraat. The boutiques of places of interest Antwerp’s fashion designers and the secondhand stores are found around Nati- Belfry a onalestraat. Kammenstraat offers quirky In the middle of the wide expanse bet-

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ween the cathedral and the old post of- um. It is possible to watch while work is fice, the Medieval belfry (built 1313–80) carried out. Even more spectacular is rises up into the air. It marvelously ex- the website yz closertova- presses the former power of the city’s pa- neyck.kikirpa.be by the Royal Institute tricians and guilds. Founded in 1613, the for Cultural Heritage, which allows you exclusive Guild of St. Michael still practi- to see the tiniest details of the master- ces foil fencing on the second story of the piece. Sint-Baafsplein attached and severely small Cloth Hall. The tower with its carillon offers a won- S .M.A.K. h derful panoramic view. Between the bel- The Municipal Museum of Contempora- fry and the cathedral, the architects Paul ry Art has become world-renowned Robbrecht and Hilde Daem built an thanks to its long-serving director Jan avant-garde interpretation of a hall and Hoet. With the help of artists and art pa- a forum – a new, highly controversial trons he has assembled a fascinating landmark. Sint-Baafsplein collection (including Marcel Broodtha- ers, Joseph Beuys and Luc Tuymans). Su- Gravensteen h perb exhibitions. Popular artists café Around the year 1000, the counts of Flan- (open until 1 a.m.) Citadelpark | www. ders began building a moated castle of smak.be gray stone from the Scheldt. Over two centuries, a symbol of their power arose S tadhuis h in the form of 24 towers. The center point The city hall is built in the styles of Late is the 30 meter high hall. Later, the cast- Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque. It le served as a court, a torture chamber of doesn’t inhabit a square, but is very de- the Inquisition and as a cotton mill. Old mocratically placed on two street cor- court records, weapons and torture tools ners. Inside, splendid halls attest to the illustrate the former roles of the castle. city’s power and wealth. Botermarkt 1 Sint-Veerleplein shopping Sint-Baafskathedraal h The Ghent cathedral brings together se- The chain stores have settled on and veral styles. The chancel and transept around Veldstraat. Kalandeberg, Koest- are in the clear style of Scheldt Gothic. raat, Kortedagsteeg and Walpoortstraat The three-bay nave and the tower are provide chic boutiques. Fine antiques typical of the later playful Brabantine and design stores can be found around Gothic style. The mixture of red brick, Onderbergen. The flea market (8 a.m. to gray Scheldt stone and French limesto- 1 p.m. Fr–Sun) is around Sint Jacob chur- ne is confusing. The impressive Ba- ch. Kortrijksepoortstraat and Dam- roque interior was added after destruc- poortstraat offer many secondhand tion caused by the religious wars. The stores. cathedral is internationally renowned for the Ghent Altarpiece by Jan and Hu- yz Het Hinkelspel bert van Eyck. The middle panel dis- Fine cheeses made from unpasteurizedg plays the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. organic milk from the region. The Pas de The panels have been gradually resto- bleu blue cheese is astounding. F. Lous- red in the voor Schone Kunsten muse- bergskaai 33

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GERMANY

Cologne

i BELGIUM n e

Koblenz

ne Valley Cochem Rhi le dd e i ll M se Rüdesheim Mo

Speyer Heidelberg FRANCE

Strasbourg

sace e l n A i

Basel rland witze rn S ste we th or N SWITZERLAND 16

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GERMANY

Cologne

R h i BELGIUM n e

Koblenz ne Valley Cochem Rhi le dd e i ll M se Rüdesheim Mo

Speyer Heidelberg FRANCE

Strasbourg WELCOME TO WESTERN lsace e A n i GERMANY! h

R The Rhine Gorge is a beautiful place to behold, with the narrow ravine in the Upper Middle Rhine Valley and jagged rocks growing from the river and the bank. The fo- Basel rests in this region are dense and magical, the villages picturesque, and the condi- rland tions for winegrowing are perfect on the rocky terraces. For centuries, this stretch of witze rn S the river with its fortresses and castles has been considered one of the most beauti- ste we th ful – a veritable magnet for painters, poets, and lovers alike. All this was recognized or by UNESCO when the organization declared the Rhine Gorge a World Heritage Site. N SWITZERLAND

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AMADEUS Silver and the Rhine. At the western edge of the city center, the MediaPark was constructed after 1990, and in more recent days, the old Rheinauhafen received a makeover. However, the past is still visible around many a corner between Eigel- steintor and Severinstor, where visitors to the city encounter relics from two millen- nia of history, such as Roman excavations or vestiges from the Middle Ages and the dawning of the Machine Age. These are witness to a proud and confident public spirit – and it is this spirit to which Cologne owes its many museums: Ever since Canon Ferdinand Franz Wall- raf (1748–1824) saved a trove of ecclesiastical treasures that would otherwise have been destroyed during the Napo- leonic secularization around 1800, citizens of Cologne have frequently com- cologne piled art collections and donated them to the public. The World Heritage Cologne Cathedral and Romanesque churches, the muse- Places of interest ums, and the view of the Rhine: according to official statistics, those are the Cathedral h tourist highlights Cologne has to offer. The legends surrounding Saint Gereon Of course, there is also the carnival – and Saint Ursula have been around since the Shrove Monday procession attracts the early Middle Ages and established up to 1.5 million visitors, who join the the “hillige Kölle” (Holy Cologne) as a pil- locals in their exuberant celebrations. grimage site. In 1164, the remains of the Most landmarks are located in the city three Magi were brought from Milan to center districts and can be easily reached Cologne, where they were to be kept safe on foot. By the end of WWII in 1945, 90 in a newly constructed shrine. It took un- percent of Cologne city center had been til 1215 for the goldsmiths to complete this destroyed. The faithful reconstruction of masterpiece; now it would require a sui- the Romanesque churches and the City tably grand cathedral as a home, the cor- Hall’s tower took until the 1980s. The nerstone of which was laid in 1248. Mas- tower’s exterior is decorated with 124 ter Gerhard, first of the cathedral master stone figures depicting eras of Cologne’s builders, preferred the High Gothic style of history from ancient Rome to present to- the French Coronation Churches. However, day. The old town of Cologne is full of the plague and the city’s subsequent eco- history, but the city also has a fascina- nomic downfall caused construction to be ting modern side: After 1980, Museum abandoned in 1560. The Protestant Prus- Ludwig and the Rheingarten were built sians, of all people, completed the cathe- in the area between Cologne Cathedral dral in 1880 and used it for their political

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ambitions by celebrating it as their natio- 1968. Later, Peter Ludwig also brought nal cultural bastion. After all, at the time relatively unknown works of the Russi- of its completion, Cologne Cathedral was an avant-garde to the city on the Rhine. the highest building in the world. www. Even throughout his final years of life, koelner-dom.de Ludwig (who died in 1996) discovered works of art in China and Cuba that em- Alter markt h bodied the idea of “global art” – the ex- From the café’s terrace, you can enjoy a pression of a shared spirit among young wonderful view of City Hall, the Jan von generations of artists notwithstanding Werth fountain, and the “Hüsjer bunt their place of origin, be it Havana, om Aldermaat” (colorful houses at the Shanghai, Berlin, or New York. Heinrich- old market) as featured in a popular folk Böll-Platz 1 | www.museum-ludwig.de song. Beneath the rain pipe of house no. 24, the figure of the Kallendresser (rain Historic city hall h pipe pooper) presents you his naked der- The City Hall’s 61 meter high tower in the rière. But no worries: according to caba- Late Gothic style was completed in 1414. ret artist Juergen Becker, the Kallendres- It stood for the confident bourgeoisie ser does not relieve himself on tourists’ and was built to rival the Great St Mar- plates. The Jan von Werth fountain was tin Church. A graphic representation of constructed in 1884 and is based on a le- the city’s proud public spirit, the “Platz- gend: The maidservant Griet rejected Jan jabbeck” – a medieval, painted wooden von Werth, a young peasant, for his low head – sticks out its tongue at observers birth. When he returned as a proud ca- every hour on the hour. Construction of valry general at the end of the Thirty Ye- the Renaissance-style City Hall Loggia ars’ War, Griet was selling flowers at the was finished in 1573. The “Piazzetta”, a city gates and regretted not having mar- 12 meter high atrium in the interior of ried him. the City Hall, is freely accessible. Its northern wall offers a view of the tower. Near yz Overstolzenhaus the City Hall, a portico from the first cen- The building with its stepped gable is the tury was discovered, which can be ac- only preserved patrician house in the Ro- cessed from the City Hall basement. The manesque style. Built in 1230, the exteri- Piazzetta (foyer area) is open to the pub- or of the vintner family Overstolz’s home lic during the day. still looks grand to this day. The rooms with the high ceilings were very drafty Romano-Germanic Museum h and uncomfortable in the past, though. The museum is home to many interes- Rheingasse 8 ting archeological finds from the founding days of the city in the first century A.D. Museum Ludwig h when it started out as a colony of the Ro- Museum Ludwig is considered the “flag- man Empire. The most valuable exhibit ship” among Cologne’s museums, as it featured in the museum is the Dionysus is home to the city’s complete art coll- mosaic from the dining hall of a fourth- ection from the twentieth and twenty- century Roman town villa. Another nota- first centuries. The collectors Irene and ble monument is the sepulcher of the Ro- Peter Ludwig entrusted the city of Colo- man veteran Poblicius (about A.D. 40). gne with their Pop Art collection back in The showpiece of the world’s largest coll-

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ection of Roman glass is the tricolored city center, the two main venues to attract cage cup from the fourth century. There is avant-garde art aficionados can be found in a reason why so many pieces of jewelry Riehl (An der Schanz 1 A) and near the Sou- are exhibited: their usefulness in Late An- th Bridge (Schönhauser Str. 8). tiquity. Bracelets and necklaces were both financial asset and currency during the Mi- gration Period in the first millennium A.D. Koblenz Roncalliplatz 4 | www.museenkoeln.de At Koblenz, the Moselle and Rhine meet to Koblenz create a mélange of modern sobriety and Mediterranean nonchalance. The city (population ~110,000) merges Roman history with high-tech research, and trendy cultural avant-garde with commerce. The university town is located at the confluence of the Rhine and Moselle. Approa- ching it from the Koblenz interchange, you will most likely be reminded of the suburbs of an American metropolis. The four-lane roads will take you through commercial areas with shopping malls and billboards, but past the bottleneck that is the Europabrü- cke, a different world begins. It is a world of cobbled alleys in the old town, parks around the Electoral Palace, and the Deutsches Eck (German Corner) with its impressive Wilhel- minian monument and its romantic prome- shopping nade along the Rhine bank with view of the Are you looking for a souvenir to remem- Ehrenbreitstein Fortress. While Koblenz fea- ber your trip to Cologne? If you desire so- tures the pedestrian zones common to Ger- mething authentic, you should visit Printen man cities, only a few steps away are small Schmitz, where you can buy an edible mini- cafés and rustic bars, elegant shops selling ature Cathedral – with or without chocolate expensive tobacco and leather goods, dim- icing – as well as many droll marzipan figu- ly lit thrift stores, or artists’ studios. Ever since res that you might actually find too cute to the Bundesgartenschau 2011 (Federal horti- eat. The large stores and chains are mostly culture show), the “castellum apud conflu- located on Hohe Straße and Schildergasse. entes”, as the city was called when it was Connected to this traffic-free area are the still just a small Roman settlement, has had shopping arcades around Neumarkt. Spe- a particularly “flowery” side: flowers now cial shops for masks, costumes, decoration, grow on former parking lots. and party items are busy all year round because Cologne does not limit its party life places of interest to the Carnival season.The art scene has thinned out noticeably ever since many of DEUTSCHES ECK Cologne’s galleries moved to Berlin. These (German Corner) h a days, in addition to a few galleries in the At the border of the old town, the Mo-

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selle flows into the Rhine. On the bank, numents and sculptures. Much of it was German Emperor William I has sat atop destroyed during WWII, but on the occasi- his horse high above the two rivers since on of the Bundesgartenschau, everything 1897. During WWII, the 37 meter high was restored according to the original de- monument lost its larger-than-life gene- signs. Today, the wide steps leading down ral, but in 1993, both horse and rider were to the Rhine embankment are a meeting restored to their former glory. Most of the place for sun worshippers, water enthusi- approximately 2 million visitors coming asts, and all who just want to relax.. here each year mainly enjoy the view of the Rhine and the Ehrenbreitstein Fort- STOLZENFELS CASTLE h a ress. Konrad-Adenauer-Ufer (Konrad-Ade- The light walls and pinnacles, along with nauer bank) the park and the gardens give this castle from the thirteenth century a fairytale air. EHRENBREITSTEIN FORTRESS h Even the footpath to the castle past a wa- The fortress is the second largest in all of terfall and a grotto takes you back in time. Europe. It was constructed by the Prussi- The original building was destroyed by the ans between 1817 and 1828, but the first French in 1689 and rebuilt in 1836 based settlers of the plateau can be traced back on the designs of the famous architect Karl to Antiquity. You can reach the fortress by Friedrich Schinkel. Its interior features an cable car, which was built for the Bundes- impressive great hall and summer hall. A gartenschau 2011, from the Rhine river- special highlight for small groups are the bank in the old town. In order to protect yz dramatized guided tours the World Heritage status of the Middle each evening: the history of the castle and Rhine Valley, the cable car was supposed its inhabitants are presented to visitors with to be dismantled once the Bundesgarten- great gusto. Am Schlossweg 1 | Koblenz-Stol- schau was over. However, the citizens of zenfels | www.schloss-stolzenfels.de Koblenz successfully petitioned for it to stay, and Unesco signed off on its continu- ed operation. From the viewing platform Ceoch m in the sweeping fortress park, you can enjoy a spectacular view of the Moselle estu- This district town (population ~5,500) is ary and the city. The site is also a backdrop one of the biggest attractions along the for events and concerts. Furthermore, the Lower Moselle and popular with the tou- fortress is home to Landesmuseum Kob- rists all year round. lenz (www.landesmuseum-koblenz.de) – That does not diminish its charm in the a museum that will captivate you with its slightest, as it helps to keep the narrow, collection of technological antiquities and mostly pedestrian-only alleys in the old archeological finds. town lively. The best view of the old city, with its jutties and timber-framed houses, KAISERIN-AUGUSTA-ANLAGEN h can be had at a distance: if you cross the The design of this part of the Rhine pro- bridge over the Moselle into the Cond dis- menade between Deutsches Eck and the trict, you will behold a picture-perfect pa- Electoral Palace was commissioned by Em- norama, complete with the Weiße Flotte press Augusta (wife of Emperor William I) – mostly white passenger ships cruising and built by landscaping genius Peter Len- Germany’s continental waterways – and né, who created this park with its art mo- swans on the river, the silhouette of the

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Cochem Imperial Castle, and the densely hill overgrown with grapevines. During the forested hills of the Eifel on the horizon. reign of the Staufen, it became an imperial fiefdom but was soon destroyed by the troops of the French Sun King Louis XIV, like palces of interest so many other castles lining the banks of CAPUCHIN MONASTERY a the Moselle. In 1868, the Berlin merchant From the old town, climb the small stairs, Louis Ravené bought the ruins and trans- embracing the quiet and calm, leaving formed them into the Neo-Gothic fairytale behind the hustle and bustle of the city castle of today. While it does not bear any center. The Capuchin monastery from the resemblance to the historic original, it per- seventeenth century offers a grandiose fectly expresses the romantic ideals of his view of the Tal der Wilden Endert (wild time. The interior is a colorful mix of styles Endert valley) and the Winneburg castle from different epochs and creates a fantas- ruin, which was once the ancestral seat tic piece of art. Schlossstr. 36 | www.reichs- of the noble House of Metternich. The- burg-cochem.de se days, the secularized monastery is an arts center that stages cabaret, concerts, shopping and other events (mainly during the winter season). Klosterberg 5 Wajos Genussmanufaktur This factory is located in the old city and MARKET SQUARE sells liqueur and vinegar specialties pre- Cochem’s heart is round and small like pared by the Walter J. Oster vineyard a living room: gorgeous timber-framed and produced in Cochem-Dohr. Sauces houses are nestled close together, and in and choice gourmet ingredients are also the center of the market square, the Mar- available. Markt 7 tinsbrunnen from the eighteenth century stands proudly. The city hall was also constructed in that era. Just take a seat, re- rdü esheim lax, and enjoy the atmosphere. With the slogan “144 meters of joie de vi- REICHSBURG vre”, the city characterizes its biggest at- (IMPERIAL CASTLE) h a traction: the world-famous Drosselgasse This is where people from all nations that’s home to its great variety of wine ta- meet, as do all kinds of architectural sty- verns. les. The imperial castle is the most romantic In fact, Rüdesheim (population ~7000) is knight’s castle west of the Lower Moselle. the town with the most tourists per inhabi- During the summer season, a bus shut- tant in Germany. The town center and its tle carries tourists from Endertplatz to the Rhine romanticism has inspired many a spectacularly beautiful castle, but there’s poet and musician. Johannes Brahms com- also a hiking trail for all who prefer to enjoy posed his Symphony No. 3 in Rüdesheim the walk. The path begins down in the city while attending the completion of the Nie- at Martinstor and winds its way up the slo- derwalddenkmal. The Rheingau’s most fa- pe, passing the colorful and fragrant land- mous town also has a lot of culture to offer, scape garden created by the erstwhile lord such as the historic manors in Oberstraße of the castle Louis Ravené. The castle was or the Adlerturm in Grabenstraße – a rem- built around 1000 and crouches on a shale nant of the old city wall and fortification

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from the fifteenth century. Another monu- facts about the breeding and hunting ha- ment that’s weathered the test of time is bits of these majestic animals. the Brömserburg, which is one of the oldest castles in the Rhine region. Gourmets will thoroughly enjoy a visit as almost nowhere else in Rheingau offers such varied cuisine. Furthermore, restaurants, bars and Strausswirtschaften (local wine taverns open at certain times a year) regularly offer live music events. Stores catering to tourists are also open on Sundays. The atmosphere is particularly tranquil in the town’s district of Eibingen, located in the midst of the region’s vineyards. Of course, here you will find numerous inns and wine taverns where you can stop and savor the region’s delicacies. The town is also famous for the work of Saint Hildegard of Bingen, who founded a monastery here in 1165.

PLACES OF INTEREST NIEDERWALDDENKMAL h Even from a distance, the national monument’s Germania is clearly discerni- ble towering above Niederwald’s southern slopes. After the Franco-Prussian War Drosselgasse Rüdesheim (1870–71), it was built from 1877 to 1883 and engraved with the inscription “Zum RHEINGAU WINE MUSEUM Andenken an die einmuethige siegreiche BRÖMSERBURG Erhebung des deutschen Volkes und an The Brömserburg was built around 1000 die Wiederaufrichtung des Deutschen Rei- A.D. on the foundations of a Roman fort ches 1870–1871” (“In memory of the una- on the banks of the Rhine. It was the seat nimous victorious uprising of the German of the Rüdesheim noble house Brömser. people and of the reinstitution of the Ger- The guest book has entries from famous man Empire 1870–1871”). The 12 meter historical figures such as Johann Wolf- tall and 32 ton Germania holds the crown gang von Goethe, Heinrich Heine, the of the emperor in her right hand and the Brothers Grimm, and Felix Mendelssohn- imperial sword in her left hand. From the Bartholdy. Today, the castle is home to a large terrace at the foot of the monu- over 2000 exhibits and the oldest collec- ment, you can enjoy an incredible panora- tion of objects for wine-making and con- mic view of the Rhine Valley. Many visitors sumption displayed across twelve rooms. come here by cable car from Rüdesheim. These include historical wine presses and The nearby Adlerwarte is also worth a vi- wine glasses from all significant epochs. sit. Here, you can watch numerous native Rheinstr. 2 | www.rheingauer-weinmuse- birds of prey and find out many interesting um.de

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will also get the chance to enjoy the beau- shopping ty of the many courtyards and gabled hou- Käthe Wohlfahrt ses. Take your time strolling through the 365 days of Christmas: In this place, eve- streets and remember to bring comfortab- rything is about this important annual ce- le shoes, as most of the roads in the histo- lebration. If you are looking for traditional ric center are cobbled. German Christmas tree decorations, you will certainly find inspiration here. The spe- places of interest cialty store also sells hand-made classics from Nativity figurines and Christmas pyra- Old Bridge h mids to smoking men and nutcrackers. Johann Wolfgang von Goethe reflected on Oberstr. 35 | www.kaethewohlfahrt.de the bridge upon seeing it for the first time in 1797 with the words “Die Brücke zeigt sich von hier aus in einer Schönheit wie H eidelberg vielleicht keine Brücke der Welt …” (“From this view, the bridge has a beauty which Visiting Heidelberg for just a few hours? likely no other bridge in the world can sur- It is possible. However, the city is not pass ...”). Indeed, it would not even need made for a quick sight-seeing trip. That the three statues, all of which are copies, as which inspired poets, painters, and philo- an adornment to reveal its natural beauty. sophers in the past and the present can The ensemble of the bridge and bridge only be discovered with time to explore gate, which leads to a small square, has the history of the city. been a favorite motif for painters and pho- Heidelberg’s old town can be divided into tographers of all eras. The Karl Theodor two parts: “unne” and “owwe”, which Bridge, as it is officially called, has a turbu- mean “lower” and “upper”. The “lower” lent past: it has been rebuilt nine times. western section begins at Bismarckplatz The last time in 1788, saw the bridge and (Bismarck square) and covers the area all its eight pillars fashioned completely from the way to Universtitätsplatz (university stone for the first time. It was erected by square) where you can cross over into the Elector Charles Theodor, who was immor- “owwe” section – the historic center of talized with his own statue on the bridge Heidelberg. Here, you’ll encounter stone right next to that of Pallas Athena. witnesses to the city’s eventful history on every corner – first and foremost the uni- MOUNTAIN RAILWAY h a versity, which was built in 1386. You can A trip with the Heidelberg Mountain Rail- explore the city’s colorful past more way is an amazing experience any time deeply during a visit to one (or more) of of year. The entire length of the route to the many museums: For example, Kur- the city’s landmark mountain, the Kö- pfälzisches Museum (Palatinate Muse- nigstuhl (586 m), offers fantastic views um), the President Friedrich Ebert Memo- of Heidelberg. The two historic cars run- rial, and the museum of the University ning between Molkenkur and Königstuhl Heidelberg are all home to impressive his- were fully refurbished a few years ago to torical exhibits. Hauptstraße (Main Street) preserve the city’s genuine historical tre- is a magnet for tourists and a mecca for asure. Today, two superlatives meet: the shopping, but you can find interesting trains in the lower part are considered shops in the small alleys, too. There you the most modern mountain railways in

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Germany, while the upper route is tra- aterplatz. On the way there, you pass versed by the oldest electrically powered numerous fashion boutiques and shoe cable car. The valley station is at Korn- stores, as well as equally as many cell markt. www.bergbahn-heidelberg.de phone stores. The side streets are home castle h to second-hand bookstores, wine stores, Heidelberg without its castle is unimagi- and Italian delis. Near Universitätsplatz, nable. The view from the Schlossaltan, yz Untere Straße branches off the elector’s balcony, is unique and stirs from the main street. This narrow alley the heart and soul. It is a must-see for an- is packed with small stores where you yone who really wants to experience Hei- can find a variety of avant-garde fa- delberg. The whole complex, comprising shion, jewelry, and art and knickknacks. of the castle and the castle garden, looks If you need a break from all the shop- back on an eventful history of construc- ping, you can enjoy coffee and cake in tion, destruction, and partial restoration. one of the many cafés or stop at a res- The different master builders and owners taurant for a hearty meal. are evident in the varied architectural styles of the building. Speyer market square h Opinions differ on which is the most The imperial city (population ~49,700), beautiful square in the city: Marktplatz replete with old merchant and timber- (market square) or Universitätsplatz (uni- framed houses, is about 25 kilometers versity square). The market square has east of Neustadt. some noteworthy advantages over its When visiting, you should make sure competition in the form of the City Hall, not to miss out on one of the most im- the Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy portant Romanesque buildings in the re- Spirit), and the gorgeous fronts of the gion: the grand Cathedral from around Ritter and baroque Hofapotheke.. 1030. Let the fascinating interior captivate you while you walk in diffuse lighting beneath the high dome, and take a mo- shopping ment to marvel at the master builders’ ex- The heart of Heidelberg city center is ceptional craftsmanship. If you climb the Hauptstraße (Main Street). Every shop- 304 steps to the 60 meter high a obser- ping tour should start here at Bismarck- vation deck on the western side of the ca- platz in the “lower” part of Heidelberg. thedral, you are rewarded with a beauti- On your way to the “upper” part of the ful view of the Baden region and the city city toward Karlstor, you will be tempted of Speyer. Other architectural highlights of by the great variety of articles on sale. the city besides the cathedral are the Me- For the full experience, you should also morial Church, the Dreifaltigkeitskirche explore the shopping district’s small al- (Trinity Church), and the Mikveh. The His- leys. The first leads to St. Anna-Gasse, torical Museum of the Palatinate features the second to Neugasse. Following the- fascinating exhibitions on a variety of to- se two narrow passages, you will soon pics from Egypt to the Vikings and even reach the Plöck – the main street’s “litt- Playmobil. One of the most interesting pe- le sister” running parallel to it. Staying destrian zones in the Palatinate connects on Hauptstraße will first take you to The- Altpörtel and the Cathedral.

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Alsace is a region with many different speeds. A downhill cyclist in the Vosges going way too fast. A TGV on a straight stretch of railway traveling 320 kilometers an hour. A man and a woman on a houseboat gliding at walking pace. Saturday afternoon in Mulhouse, Colmar, Strasbourg: Alsace is a region with many different speeds, people and vehicles traversing the main street. In the past, the main arguments for a vacation in Alsace were its rural charm, the wine route, and the philosophy of “Living like God in France”, but this list has been grea- tly expanded since then. Over 8280 km², you will find a lot more than the popular places of interest such as Strasbourg Cathedral and the Isenheim Altarpiece, Alsatian cuisine and wine taverns, or music and theater festivals. The region also offers two large nature reser- ves – the Ballons des Vosges and Vosges du Nord –, the cross-border Palatinate Forest North Vosges Biosphere Reserve, and many other biotopes, such as marsh areas and wetlands.

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mark with Historicism and Art Nouveau. strasbourg And yet today the city is known by its French name Strasbourg. It is a leading Directly in front of the cathedral’s main force in trade, economy, and education, entrance sits a stout man who breaks into and is constantly reinventing its urban pl- song in an angelic voice: overtone chan- anning. Despite its urbanity, Strasbourg ting. In the visible distance, a gypsy band has preserved its Alemannic soul. In Stras- belts out music while a mime moves in bourg, longing means coziness, even slow-motion opposite. Maybe there is a though it is alive with theater, dance and demo for or against something, but the- music festivals like any other metropolis. re is definitely a farmers market, selling fruits, vegetables, cold meat, cheese, and places of interest clothes. All that and more is Strasbourg. The street STRASBOURG CATHEDRAL h cafés are crowded, something interesting Coming from the Alsatian plain, Stras- is going on around every corner, and the bourg Cathedral is the only building you babble of voices is Babylonian. People not will see on the horizon for a long while un- just from Europe but from all over the til eventually, the whole city comes into world have found a home here. Three ma- view. How did this impressive view affect jor religions thrive in the city and each people in the days before high-rises found year, millions want to see the capitale Eu- their way inside the Strasbourg city limits? ropéene (population ~270,000). There Until 1875, the 144 meter high cathedral are many marvels to behold around was the highest building in the world. It Munster, this vast pedestrian zone on the was originally a Romanesque church that, World Heritage Site of Grande Île, where after being struck by lightning, was rebuilt the Romans first set up camp more than between 1176 and 1439 using the red 2000 years ago. Next came the Aleman- sandstone of the Vosges. Its architecture ni, later the Merovingians, the Germans, was modeled after the Gothic cathedrals and finally the French. In the twen- popular in France at the time. Particularly tieth century, the city also experienced a prominent is the 142 meter high northern change of language. Did its eventful past spire that would never have the twin that hurt Argentoratum – the “silver castle” – was planned in the original design. as the Romans called it? No. Even though Instead, you can follow in Goethe’s it had to undergo all these changes, the footsteps, who climbed the 332 steps to city has benefited from it, as is particular- the church’s a platform in an attempt to ly evident in the varied and genuine Euro- rid himself of his acrophobia. pean architecture everywhere. You will find numerous timber-framed houses – yz Château Musée Vodou some small and lopsided, others beautiful If skulls disgust you, you might want to and proud – from the era when Stras- skip a visit to this place. The voodoo mu- bourg was a free city and nation states seum is housed in an old water tower were still unknown. Neo-classical palaces from 1878 and showcases West African and Victorian squares can be found in all religions in all their manifestations. The the places where French governors had a ancestor worship is particularly remar- hand in the city’s development. However, kable. Most exhibits were assembled even the rather short German era left its during the second half of the twen-

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tieth century in Ghana, Togo, Benin, and | www.musees.strasbourg.eu Nigeria by Strasbourg collector Marc Ar- bogast. Masks, traditional costumes, PETITE FRANCE h sculptures, and “enchanted” objects of You have not seen Strasbourg if you everyday life are presented on four le- haven’t visited Petit France. With its al- vels. 4, Rue de Koenigshoffen | www.cha- leys, nooks and crannies, bridges and teau-vodou.com water gates, as well as the imposing Ale- mannic timber-framed houses and the EUROPEAN QUARTER h vast expanse of water, it is considered the Strasbourg certainly lives up to its title of most picturesque part of the city. Even on European City. The glass-and-steel pala- foggy days – bonjour, mélancholie – the ces of the European Parliament are situ- place is beautiful. Although thousands of ated along the bank of the Bassin de I’Ill, tourists descend on the quarter every opposite the Orangerie. Only a stone’s day, you can still find a few quiet spots. throw away is another architectural mas- Viewing it from the a Barrage Vauban terpiece: the Cité Ungemach, the wor- weir reveals just how enchanting the kers’ colony from 1920. quarter is.

yz MUSÉE ALSACIEN yz german quarter The Alsatian museum was founded in Following in the Emperor’s footsteps: Af- 1907 and is housed in a timber-framed ter 1871, billions were spent on building a building from the seventeenth century. whole quarter in the historicism and art Here, you can stroll through rooms de- nouveau style. To this day, the Wilhemian corated true to the original, such as a li- “German Quarter” stands intact. The lar- ving room in the Renaissance style, a gest, most notable sight is the Imperial pharmacy, a smithy, and much more. Palace (known today as Palais du Rhin), Each room is furnished liberally with fur- the smallest is the Emperor’s profile in the niture, paintings, objects of everyday palace’s wrought-iron banister. Another life, tools, and toys from the respective treasure from the city’s past is the Maison era. 23–25, Quai Saint-Nicolas | www. Egyptienne (10, Rue Général Rapp). musees.strasbourg.eu yz WINE CELLAR OF STRAS- STRASBOURG MUSEUM OF MODERN BOURG CITY HOSPITAL AND CONTEMPORARY ART The city hospital’s wine cellar was built in (MAMC) h 1392 and is the heart of Alsatian wine. The The Museum of Modern and Contem- best vintages are stored here, and you can porary Art has such an incredible collec- take not only a tour of the building but tion that it can regularly present new and also buy excellent wines. The oldest wine surprising exhibitions on short notice. is from 1472, and this relic is not for sale. Strasbourg artists Hans Arp and Gustave 1, Place de l’Hôpital | www.vins-des-hospi- Doré are frequently featured. The muse- ces-de-strasbourg.fr um shop has a great variety of photo- books, Japanese sketchbooks, and art shopping books. You can enjoy an amazing view of the city from the a terrace of the Art When it comes to shopping, the Alsati- Café on the second floor. 1, Place Jean Arp ans are truly French: They are crazy for

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Storks

The white stork does not only deliver babi- than 300 pairs nesting in the region bet- es, it also brightens your day – at least in ween the Vosges and the Rhine. Many of Alsace, a native habitat of the stork since the birds do not even undertake the annu- time immemorial. The bird was even eleva- al migration to Africa and back anymore, ted to heraldic animal. Just like in many but rather prefer to remain in the region other places in Europe, the stork populati- instead of traveling the 20,000 kilometers. on declined in Alsace, until there were only The reason for this change in behavior is a nine mating pairs left in 1974 – an all-time controversial issue: Some experts believe low! Every spire, every chimney looked em- that the behavior was “unlearned”, as pty and sad. Thanks to captive breeding three years in captivity suppressed the na- programs and conservationist activities, it tural instincts. Others are convinced that was possible to reintroduce the adorable the reason is that Alsace and its Storckadör- birds. Today, the storks are on the rise fern (stork villages) are simply too beautiful again, and the population is up to more to leave!

shopping malls like Les Halles (Place des a Strasbourg original, where you will find Halles) or one of the 90 stores of Rive- beer brands from all around the world. toiles (3, Place Dauphine | www.rivetoi- Naturally, the shop also carries creations le.com) south of the city center. Most of from the Alsatian microbreweries. 22, the city’s fashion and designer bou- Rue des Frères tiques can be found in the Rue des Hal- lebardes, Rue Mésange, and Rue des yzLE THÉ DES MUSES Grandes Arcades, as well as in the net- Have a cuppa: With more thang 300 work of streets and alleys around the ca- different types of tea (even organic) thedral. Delicatessens selling wines, from all around the world, who could cheese, and cold meats are most com- resist? You can then settle down common in the side streets. Important note: fortably in the adjacent tea room sa- Many businesses are closed on Monday lon de thé and enjoy your tea with mornings. some relaxing jazz music. Prices for half a liter of tea start at 3.50 euros. yzBretzel Airlines 51, Rue du Fossé des Tanneurs | thedes- Alsace without storks, knackwurst, and muses.blogspot.com pretzels is unimaginable, but that does not mean there cannot be a modern take on ARTS & COLLECTIONS D’ALSACE the region! Two brothers use cheeky picture Every tourist shop carries tablecloths language to elevate Alsace to a cool global and bread bags made from Alsatian brand: their shirts, posters, and stickers re- Kelsch fabric, as well as historical pho- ally are something! Rue Juif/ Rue du Parche- tos, crockery, and ceramics. This one is min | www.bretzelairlines.com different; it is less cluttered and better organized. There are no plush storks! 4, Le Village de La BiÈre Place Marché aux Poissons | www.arts- The “Beer Village”, run by Alain Pesez, is collections-alsace.comtorische

document7436883908019648153.indd 29 08.11.2017 16:15:26 WELCOME TO SWITZERLAND!

The sound of Switzerland. The ringing of the giant copper cowbells reaches the village square long before any cows are visible. The sound seems to echo down from the blindingly blue sky. The farmers are all dressed up, proudly wearing their red traditional costumes and hats with flowers while they drive the cattle. The large animals have to get to the pastures by evening, high up in the mountains that rise behind the village. For hundreds of years, the Swiss have been celebrating the Almauftrieb (driving cattle to the mountain pastures) this way. The village, the sky, the mountains, the alpine pastures, the tradition: all this is Switzerland.

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meeting in one of the Buvettes, the lo- BASEL cal beer gardens. Turn off at the Klingen- talfähre to get to the remodeled barracks The city offers so much variety that you (Klybeckstr. 1b | www.kaserne-basel.ch), certainly will not be bored during your an alternative culture center with expan- visit. Basel is old and modern, elegant sive lawns, clubs, and bars in the trendy and casual, busy and relaxed all at the yz Matthäus quarter. Between same time. Klybeckstrasse and Feldbergstrasse are Part of the reason for the city’s contra- small shops, great restaurants, and the dictory character are the people of Ba- old florist Flore (Klybeckstr. 5 | florebasel. sel, many of whom arrived here from all weebly.com), which a Frenchman named over the world: students, industrialists, Miron Londreau has turned into a wine and workers ride the same streetcars and tavern with café. Occasionally there are meet along the banks of the Rhine for a oysters on the menu. The Feldbergkiosk beer. Everyone participates in the wealth (Feldbergstr. 60 | www.feldbergkiosk.ch) because everyone who is someone in the is a first-rate diner. The farmers’ market “Basler Teig” (the rich upper class) in- in Feldbergstrasse is open every Satur- vests their money into culture. Therefo- day morning. re, it should not come as a surprise that Basel is world-renowned for its art. You may also notice the Mediterranean atmosphere in the two halves of the city: Großbasel, left of the Rhine, with the historic city center, and Kleinbasel with is colorful quarters full of culture on the other side of the river.

PLACES OF INTEREST yz GEDENKSTÄTTE FÜR FLÜCHTLINGE (REFUGEE MEMORIAL RIEHEN) During WWII, hundreds of thousands of refugees ed Nazi Germany to seek asy- lum in Switzerland. Not all were admit- ted, others only survived thanks to the help of courageous Swiss. The memorial tells the story of this widely unknown chapter in Swiss history. Tinzlingerstr. 44 | Riehen | www.gedenkstaetteriehen.ch

KLEINBASEL Basel Minster The h Basel Riviera is located on the sunny side of the Rhine. When the wea- KUNSTMUSEUM h ther is fine, half of Basel gathers here, On its opening day in April 2016, enthu- either tanning along the river bank or siastic arts aficionados waited in line

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View of the Münsterberg

(www.design-museum.de) in the neigh- outside in the pouring rain. For a good boring German town Weil am Rhein. The reason: the modern building itself is al- building housing the museum there is a ready worth a visit, and there is no bet- sight to behold! The five kilometer long ter setting for contemporary art. Even path passes through vineyards and 24 the underground tunnel that connects colorful objects by the artist guide the the old building to the new is a work way. For the full Basel experience, you of art. St.-Alban-Graben 16/20 | www. should take the tram for the trip from kunstmuseumbasel.ch Weil back to Basel. www.24stops.info

Basel Minster a The beautiful red spires of the Basel Rheinuferweg St. Johann Minster offer a fantastic view of the city What an amazing promenade! The 30 – once you have climbed the 242 steps to meter wide Elsässerrheinweg was ope- the top. The cathedral was built in 1180 ned in 2016 and starts at the park in the and has stood witness to historic events, St Johann district, passes the modern No- such as the election of a counter pope vartis Campus (where every building was in 1439. It is also the burial place of the designed by a different famous architect) scholar Erasmus of Rotterdam (1466/69 and winds its way through the country- to 1536), who was laid to rest in the side side all the way to France. It is also per- aisle. Entry fee for the tower. www.bas- fect for biking and skating! Start at St Jo- lermuenster.ch hanns Park

yz Rehberger path Tinguely-Museum Crossing borders: This path was de- The sound of rattling and squeaking ne- signed and constructed by the artist ver stops in this museum, which was re- Thomas Rehberger and leads from Fon- modeled in 2016: The colorful, moving dation Beyeler to Vitra Design Museum machines fashioned by the artist Jean

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Tinguely from scrap metal and other Feldbergstrasse in the Matthäus-Viertel random objects may work, but they do (Matthew Quarter). not fulfill a purpose. They are still lots of fun, though! Paul-Sacher-Anlage 2 | www. 1fach tinguely.ch This is where beard combs can be found next to cake mixes and flasks next to bow ties: 1fach sells practically eve- shopping rything because everyone can rent a box Basel’s main shopping street is on Freie (or a hanger) for their products. The re- Strasse, located between the bank as- sult: a surprising variety! Güterstr. 97 | sociation and the market square. A far- www.1fach-basel.ch mers’ market is held there Monday to Saturday. The Marktgasse, which runs Läckerli Huus from here to the Rhine, has small shops Enjoy trying Basler Leckerli – a local gin- like the Xocolatl (www.xocolatl.ch) spe- gerbread specialty – in an historical set- cialty shop for all things chocolate or the ting. If you find something that you like, Changemaker (www.changemaker.ch), a you can purchase it right then and there small store selling fair products. A selec- in package sizes up to one kilogram. Ger- tion of small, hip stores can be found in berstr. 57 | www.laeckerli-huus.ch National Referendum

Please note that this is a test: Are you act before a referendum, the people all for having 50 percent more vaca- have to vote after the fact nonethel- tion days than before? Do you vote ess. Three times a year, actually. All “Yes” for the state paying you 30,000 proposals must get a majority of the Swiss francs a year without questi- votes (“Volksmehr”) and the majo- on or conditions? Or for the 40-hour rity of the cantons must also agree work week (which in Switzerland me- (“Städtemehr”). More than once, the- ans fewer working hours)? If you se referendums have caused tension answered “No” to all three questi- between Switzerland and other coun- ons, you are Swiss (at least at heart) tries. For example, in the case of the because all three proposals were re- controversial minaret ban (there were jected by the vast majority of the po- only three in all of Switzerland) or the pulation in referendums. Why would strict immigration quota on citizens of the Swiss do such a thing? Some say the European Union (costing Switzer- it is because of their sense of respon- land a lot of EU money and friends). sibility. Others put it down to a fear In such cases, politicians try to fix the of change. But one thing is certain: mess before the next referendum. By Nowhere in the world do citizens have the way: If you want to put something as much influence on the work of po- to the vote, just become Swiss and liticians, which is why Swiss politici- collect signatures from 99,999 other ans often do not act until the popula- people. That is all you need to get tion has cast its vote. But even if they your proposal off the ground.

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GERMANY

in Ma Würzburg Main

Bamberg

Wertheim e b

u nconi n l a a a a Fr n

a -

Nuremberg a M

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

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in Ma Würzburg Main

Bamberg

Wertheim e b u nconi n l a a a a Fr n

a -

i Nuremberg a WELCOME TO M BAVARIA!

So you want to know about Franconia in Bavaria? Well and good, but be warned! Once you get to know this region, you will not want to leave! It might even be the beginning of an intense and lifelong relationship because Franconia is not made for a fleeting acquaintance or a brief stay. This part of Germany between Aschaffen- burg and Hof and between Ansbach and Coburg is simply too multifaceted. Franco- nia wants to be conquered one step at a time and with all the senses. The region also offers a trove of cultural treasures and unique landscapes, whose “colorful, shining gems” have inspired travel writers from as early as the nineteenth century. Even after the advent of Modernity, exploring Franconia inadvertently leads to discovering these gems: romantic timber-framed houses, cobbled alleys, impressive and artistic cathedrals and basilicas, sleepy castles and palaces, dark forests, and lakes sparkling AUSTRIA in the sun. And when you stop at one of the cozy inns to chat a little with the inhabitants over a beer, a wine and a good meal, you will not be able to shake the feeling that this is living like God in Franconia. SWITZERLAND

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world-famous buildings of the bishop’s Wertheim seat, and the 20,000 schoolchildren and students in particular make life in this city The old town of Wertheim (population so varied ~22,500) is located in the triangle between the Main and Tauber rivers. High palces of interest above the city rises the castle that was built in the twelfth century. Alte Mainbrücke The most stunning timber-framed buil- The oldest bridge in Würzburg (eleventh dings in the city – the old city hall and the century) with its eight broad stone arches Haus der vier Gekrönten – are home to the connects the fortress district with the old Grafschaftsmuseum (Rathausgasse 6–10 | town. Among the twelve larger-than-life www.grafschaftsmuseum.de), where you sculptures of saints flanking the bridge can not only admire art exhibits but also are statues of the three Franconian mar- learn about viniculture and fishing. The tyrs Kilian, Kolonat, and Totnan, as well quaint Museumsschlösschen (Würzburger as other saints from the region. A popu- Str. 30 | www.schloesschen-wertheim.de) is lar pastime among Würzburg residents only ten minutes on foot from the old town. is enjoying a yz Brückenschop- It was turned into a museum with exhibits pen (“bridge pint”), which is served at ranging from valuable china to paintings places like the Alte Mainmühle wine ta- from the time of the Berlin Secession. 18 vern. There you can sip your drink and kilometers away along the Main in the di- enjoy the view from the bridge. rection of Miltenberg is the idyllic Fechen- bacher Grund (Am Schützenhaus | www. Marienberg fortress a bogenparcours-collenberg.de) near Collen- With its high, chiseled walls and tow- berg, where you can enjoy an exciting bow ers, Marienberg Fortress (seventh cen- and arrow “hunting trip” shooting wooden tury) seems impregnable. From here, boars, stags, and foxes. www.wertheim.de you have the best view of the old town on the other side of the Main river. The Kommandantenbau houses the Main- würzburg fränkische Museum with exhibits of Fran- conian art and history as well as the lar- Countless church spires give the city’s sil- gest Tilman Riemenschneider collection houette its distinctive look. The Cathedral (comprising of 81 sculptures). The Fürs- and University City of Würzburg (popula- tenbau Museum next door has a stun- tion ~125,000) lies sheltered in a basin. ning, huge wooden model of the city be- The almost Mediterranean climate of the fore 1945. The fortress itself was home region is excellent for wine growing and to the prince-bishops before they eventu- the city is surrounded by vineyards. ally moved into the Würzburg Residence. The southern climate is also evident in the lively bars, restaurants, boutiques, Käppele a and farmers’ markets snuggled amidst The Rococo building in the midst of the the sacred architecture. Even when view- lush, green forest of the Nikolausberg is a ed from Marienberg Fortress, it is hard to graceful response to the chiseled Marien- determine how many spires the 1300 ye- berg Fortress on the neighboring moun- ars old city has. The Main river, the many tain to the left. Featuring narrow oni-

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on spires and a white and yellow facade, mire the world’s largest ceiling fresco of you can reach the Käppele (built 1748) via 670 square meters in the Treppenhaus the many steps of the Kreuzweg (access (staircase). This marvel pays homage to marked with road signs from Nikolaistra- the prince-bishop and was created by the ße). The church’s interior impresses with Venetian painter Giambattista Tiepolo ornate pews and paintings framed in stuc- (1696 to 1770), who finished the Allegory co. When it was constructed in 1748 by Bal- of the Planets and Continents after three thasar Neumann, the church was officially years in 1753. In the Kaisersaal (Imperial christened Wallfahrtskirche Mariä Heimsu- Hall), you will find another astonishing pi- chung, but today, even the street signs call ece of art high above your head: the pain- it by its Franconian nickname Käppele. ters and stucco workers created numerous amazing effects and visual illusions in this yz Lusamgarten ceiling painting. The Hofkirche (Court Cha- Behind Neumuenster Church is an archway pel) was constructed around 1750 in the that leads to a serene courtyard overgrown southwestern wing of the Residence and with ivy and offering shady trees. A large, can be easily missed because it was so white stone sarcophagus holds the remains seamlessly and smoothly integrated into of the lyric poet Walther von der Vogelwei- the building’s facade. On the inside, the de (1170 to 1230). Chances are high that chapel is a masterpiece of Baroque art: al- you will encounter couples kissing abo- tar paintings by Tiepolo, stucco, gold, spi- ve the stone lid: after all, Walther was the ral columns and an abundance of marble creator of one of the most famous love po- create an air of royal splendor. The prince- ems of the Middle Ages: “Du bist mîn, ich bishop who ordered the chapel’s construc- bin dîn …“ (“You are mine, I am yours ...). tion was adamant it not mar the overall view of the Residence, so architect Bal- Würzburger Residence h thasar Neumann used every trick in the It took several decades (1720 to 1780) un- book to discretely “vanish” the indispen- til construction of the ambitious design sable, but distracting, church spire. While by Balthasar Neumann was completed. still visible when viewed from Theaterstra- Its beauty and faithful realization of the ße, it becomes smaller the closer you get late Baroque style in both its interior and to the building, until it seems to have va- the exterior prompted Unesco to declare it nished completely. Deep beneath the Re- a World Heritage Site in 1983. The massi- sidence is the Staatliche Hofkeller (www. ve Baroque front dominates the back part hofkeller.de) – one of the most beautiful of the old town. Together with other buil- wine cellars in the world. www.residenz- dings, porticos, and obelisks, it surrounds wuerzburg.de a large, cobbled square (partially used as a parking lot today) that is home to the shopping Franconia Brunnen (Franconia Fountain). The wrought-iron gate to the left leads Weineck Julius Echter to the Hofgarten (Court Gardens). Even In the tasting room, you are treated to more beautiful than the fountain and the the wide range of excellent wines from expertly trimmed boxwood trees are the Juliusspital winery, which was founded many small putti in sometimes erotic po- in 1576 and which cultivates vineyards in ses along the arcades and stairways of the Franconia’s prime winegrowing locations. garden. Inside the residence, you can ad- Koellikerstr. 1/2 | www.juliusspital.de

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stadt (island city) between the two arms Bamberg of the Regnitz river that flow around the Domberg. Here, you will find the ma- Bamberg (population ~72,000) is also jority of the approximately 2,000 hou- known as the Franconian Rome for its ses in Bamberg that were declared pro- seven hills, as the Franconian Prague for tected monuments. One of them is the its city palaces, and the Franconian Ve- Böttingerhaus, a beautiful Rococo pa- nice for its many idyllic rivers. lace in Judenstraße. Another impressi- But above all, Bamberg is the lively hub of ve sight is the Baroque Karmelitenklos- Upper Franconia. 2,000 houses and pro- ter (www.karmeliten.de/orte/bamberg) perties in the city have been declared his- with its sandstone facade. Located at the toric monuments. The old town, a Unesco Kaulberg, it was built in 1273 and com- World Heritage Site since 1993, is a fas- prehensively reconstructed in the eigh- cinating maze of alleys, squares, palaces, teenth century. Do not miss out on the statues, and fountains. In the labyrinth of beautiful Romanesque cloister. small alleyways, passages, and narrow streets between the Baroque fronts of the bamberg cathedral h buildings, it is easy to lose orientation. The high gates with their wrought-iron or- Here is a tip: If the direction you are taking naments are certainly a sight to behold, is mostly uphill, you will eventually reach and the interior is no less impressive. The the impressive buildings around the Ca- cathedral, with its four towers, was built thedral. If you are walking downhill, you between the eras of Romanticism and will quickly get to one of the many bridges Gothic and impresses with its extraordi- and jetties offering amazing views across nary atmosphere and untreated sandsto- the Regnitz, and which will lead you to ne brickwork. Right in front of the eastern the old craftsmen’s district. The Sandvier- chancel lies the tomb created by Tilman tel (sand district) at the foot of the Dom- Riemenschneider. Therein are laid to rest berg is a popular meeting point for stu- the remains of the cathedral’s benefac- dents and young people. Many of the tor Holy Roman Emperor Henry II (973 pubs, wine taverns, and restaurants have to 1024) and his wife Kunigunde (980 to atmospheric vaulted cellars. The Sandker- 1033). You will find the Marienalter carved wa, a tumultuous folk festival held in the by Veit Stoß (1447 to 1533) in the side cha- old town in August, derives its name from pel. The Bamberger Reiter (Horseman of this quarter. On your wanderings through Bamberg) from the thirteenth century is Bamberg, you will frequently encoun- one of the oldest equestrian statues of the ter the poet E. T. A. Hoffman, creator of Middle Ages. To this day, two questions fantastically bizarre tales. Hoffmann lived have not been answered: Who does the and worked in the city from 1808 to 1813. statue depict? And why? Behind the richly Much of what he experienced here – unre- decorated bishop’s chair in the west chan- quited love and the Apfelweibla (old app- cel lies the only tomb north of the Alps in le seller) – he processed in his literature. which a pope is interred: Pope Clemens II (1005 to 1047). www.bamberger-dom.de places of interest Klein-Venedig (Little Venice) old town h Along the bank of the Regnitz are the The old town lies on the so-called Insel- houses of the Bamberg fishermen who

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City Hall of Bamberg

called this quarter their own from the lerplatz 26 via the Nonnenbrücke. This fourteenth century on. Timber-framed house was home to the poet from 1809 homes, small river gardens, fishing nets, to 1813. Hoffmann often wrote under the and barges create the Franconian-Veneti- influence of alcohol, and the zy an atmosphere that also gives the quarter hole in the corner through which he had its name. zy The most beautiful punch handed to him is testament to that. view of Little Venice can be had from the The writer was forced to leave the city in a quayside „Am Leintritt“ on the oppo- 1813 after falling in love with Bamberg re- site bank. sident Julia Mark, who was only 15 years old. Schillerplatz 26 | www.etahg.de NEUE RESIDENZ (NEW RESIDENCE) The residence (1613 to 1703), with its four SHOPPING wings, is located opposite the Alte Hof- haltung and contains elements from both You can get the Apfelweibla in a variety the Renaissance and Baroque eras. It was of shops and made from different mate- once the seat of the prince-bishops. Today, rials and ingredients. If you have a sweet it houses the Staatsgalerie (State Gallery) tooth, you might want to visit Haus zur with many Late Gothic masterpieces. The Trommel (Judenstr. 17). Kaisersaal (Imperial hall) is particularly impressive with its paintings that create the KRÄUTERGÄRTNEREI MUSSÄROL illusion of stucco. With its 4,500 rose bu- Do you like licorice? If you do, you shouldg shes and Baroque sandstone statues, the visit the organic nursery and taste-test Rosengarten (rose garden) is a beautiful some of the zy licorice Bam- sight to behold. Domplatz 8 | www.resi- ber was once famous for. The roots of denz-bamberg.de the plant are not just used to make tasty treats. They are also often an ingredient in E.T.A.HOFFMANN’S HOUSE remedies. Nürnberger Str. 86 | www.biok- You can reach the narrow building at Schil- raeuter.info

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sible for Dürer’s wife Agnes to guide NUREMBERG you through the Renaissance artist’s household. The many rooms – faithfully Once the richest city of the High Middle recreated with iron stoves, carved furnitu- Ages with many trade routes throughout re, and, above all, a dark, sooty kitchen – the world, it is today a modern metropo- take you on a trip 500 years back in time. lis (population ~500,000). The workshop has daily printing presen- Much is still preserved from the High Midd- tations, during which visitors can create le Ages in the city center. The city wall and their own prints to take home as souve- its giant towers, the castle with its distincti- nirs. Albrecht-Dürer-Str. 39 | www.museen. ve walls, donjon, and pitched roofs rising nuernberg.de/duererhaus high above the city, and the large and ornate Patrician houses around the castle hill yz CASTLE HILL tell a story of the success and wealth of Something even some Nuremberg ci- Nuremberg’s merchants and nobles in the tizens do not know: the castle hill is Middle Ages. The Nuremberg Rally Grounds riddled with tunnels. Up to 15 meters and courtroom number 600 also grant an below ground is a network of rooms insight into the darker episodes of the city’s and corridors dating over several centuries. Most of them were used as beer cellars, but also as hideouts. During WW II, many people found shelter from the numerous bombardments in the old cellars. The Förderverein Nürnberger Felsengän- ge organizes guided tours through this fascinating underground warren. Berg- str. 19 | www.felsengaenge-nuernberg.de

NUREMBERG DB MUSEUM The legendary “Adler” was the first steam Nürnberger Bratwurst engine on German railways and is the museum’s centerpiece. On three floors, history, as this is where the NSDAP held its the museum takes you on a fascinating annual rallies and where the race laws of trip through time, from the early begin- 1935 and later were passed. This is also nings of railroad travel to today. The “Ad- where the Nuremberg trials took place, du- ler” also undertakes tourist trips between ring which war criminals such as Hermann Nuremberg and Fürth. Lessingstr. 6 | www. Göring were sentenced to death between dbmuseum.de 1946 and 1948. The metropolitan region of Nuremberg, of which the city is the center, DOCUMENTATION CENTER NAZI PAR is one of the most important economic re- TY RALLY GROUNDS h gions in Europe. In the giant, horseshoe-shaped complex of the Rally Grounds, an audio tour guides you through the exhibit “Fascination and PLACES OF INTEREST Terror” and explains the means by which HOUSE OF ALBRECHT DÜRER the Nazi government used architecture and Today’s multimedia age makes it pos- large events to indoctrinate the masses. In

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addition to this permanent exhibition, the above on the almost 20 meter high foun- museum also offers regularly changing ex- tain, distracting the seeker from the pri- hibitions on the Third Reich. Bayernstr. 110 ze – the ring that is said to bring luck to | www.museen.nuernberg.de/dokuzentrum those who touch and spin it. According to legend, spinning it once grants three wi- Germanisches shes. Those who spin the ring three times Nationalmuseum h are blessed with a wealth of children. It is simply impossible to see the complete, world-famous collection housed Nuremberg Zoo the old Nuremberg Charterhouse in a Dolphins glide through the water, African single visit. The museum displays pain- lions doze next to Siberian Tigers in the tings by Dürer, sculptures by Ernest Bar- rocky compound: this is Nuremberg Zoo, lach and Joseph Beuys, a vast hall with one of the most beautiful landscape zoos swords, shields and armor for horse and in Germany, with 2,500 animals over 70 rider, as well as one of the most distin- hectares. The shows in the dolphinarium guished collections of historical musical (daily at 11 a.m. and 2 and 4 p.m.) are an instruments. It also gives a comprehen- all-time favorite with visitors. Since 2011, sive review of the history of fashion and the zoo is home to a dolphin lagoon – the folk art in the German-speaking regions first outdoor habitat for dolphins in Ger- of the world. The impressive huge his- many. It is a great playground. Am Tier- torical paintings depicting ancient batt- garten 30 | www.tiergarten.nuernber g.de les and the collection of antique medical appliances are worth a visit, too. With shopping 300,000 pages, the graphic arts collection is the largest of its kind in Europe. You can find the large department stores in Kai- Kartäusergasse 1 | www.gnm.de serstraße, Königsstraße, and Breite Gasse. The former workers’ quarter Gostenhof (www.in- IMPERIAL CASTLE a goho.de) north of the old city is also known The path up to the castle (eleventh centu- as “Goho” (in reference to New York’s famous ry) may be steep, but the view of the old Soho neighborhood). Here you will find a thri- city and the craftsmen’s quarter is certain- ving cultural and economic life, comprising of ly worth it. You can also visit the round, galleries, designer shops, studios, and clubs massive Sinwell Tower on a guided tour. between Turkish grocery stores and alternati- Next door, the imperial stables were once ve cafés. If you wish to take a break from shop- housed beneath the large roof with its ping, you can rest and enjoy a red beer and a many dormer windows. Today, the buil- hearty meal in the small brewery with adjacent ding is a hostel. The Imperial Castle mu- beer garden: Brauerei Schanzenbräu (Adam- seum is home to a collection of ordnance, Klein-Str. 27 | www.schanzenbraeu.de). halberds, and firearms. Auf der Burg 13 Handwerkerhof Nuremburg Schöner Brunnen For fans of traditional craftsmanship: At It is quite a feat to find the gold brass ring Handwerkhof, you can watch gingerbread among the vibrant Gothic decorations of bakers and potters at work. If you want a the Schöner Brunnen (late fourteenth memento of your visit, the most beautiful century) on the main market. Gold-pla- works are also available to purchase as sou- ted saints with lances and croziers tower venirs. Königstor | www.handwerkerhof.de

document8953815995325626664.indd 41 08.11.2017 16:15:48 CZECH REPUBLIC

Regensburg SLOVAKIA Passau u Linz a h c a Bratislava

Salzburg W Vienna Esztergom Budapest AUSTRIA szt a Pu HUNGARY Danube ROMANIA a lt CROATIA Novi Sad e D Iron Gates e b u )( n Belgrade Bucharest a

Danube SERBIA BULGARIA

Danube

document1419682194199640015.indd 42 08.11.2017 16:15:38 CZECH REPUBLIC

Regensburg SLOVAKIA Passau u Linz a h c a Bratislava

Salzburg W Vienna Esztergom Budapest AUSTRIA szt a Pu HUNGARY Danube ROMANIA a lt CROATIA Novi Sad e D Iron Gates e b u )( n Belgrade Bucharest a

Danube SERBIA BULGARIA

WELCOME TO BAVARIA!

The forests of southeastern Bavaria, also known as the Green Roof of Europe, are an inviting holiday region offering fascinating contrasts. The continent’s largest forest region includes the Bavarian Forest and Bohemian Forest national parks with nature and cultural treasures waiting to be discovered. Among these are unfatho- mable depths, peaceful forests, wild ravines and streams, summer meadows and mysterious upland moors. The 200-million-year-old peaks remain to this day a carefully developed hiking paradise. A network of paths and routes crisscross the region, with 300 km in the German National Park alone, plus 660 km along the Goldsteig.

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tack from melting snow with a high con- REGENSBURG tent of de-icing salt. Arch XII has come close to collapsing. But perhaps it’s the Mainly spared the ravages of war and devil seeking his revenge because the time, Regensburg’s city center (popula- bridge’s building master once double- tion ~144,000) is the very last remai- crossed him. According to legend, the ning Medieval city in Germany. bridge architect made a bet with the ca- The city, its cathedral (Bishopric establis- thedral architect that his bridge would be hed in 739) and its Stone Bridge, which finished before the cathedral. To ensure was considered a world wonder in the success, he sought Satan’s help, promi- Middle Ages, gained status as a UNESCO sing him three souls. The architect won, World Heritage Site in 2006. Today, the but the devil had to make do with a roos- university and technical college city is a ter, a hen, and a dog. center of modern industry. At the same time, however, Regensburg is a living ST. EMMERAM h museum of architectural and art land- As was not unusual in the past: Saint marks from the second to the twenty- Emmeram was murdered and the duke first centuries. had him buried outside the city in 685. His grave became a pilgrimage destina- tion and from the site grew a monastery. The monastery became powerful enough to split away from the Hochstift. Since 1812 it has served as the Prince- ly Palace of the Thurn and Taxis family that, along with the cloister, is today partially open to the public. Impressive are the ballroom and library with ceiling fresco (1737) by Cosmas Damian Asam. The Princely Treasure Chamber may be visited separately. St. Emmeramsplatz | www.thurnundtaxis.de

OLD CITY HALL Today the building, whose oldest wing is from the thirteenth century, houses the Document Reichstag exhibition. The ex- Bridge Gate and Cathedral pansive Reichssaal has a woodcut ceiling from 1408 for viewing. Rathausplatz PLACES OF INTEREST REGENSBURG CATHEDRAL STONE BRIDGE h Work has been continuing on the cathe- It took from 1135 until 1146 to build the dral since 1275. With its two impressive 336 meter bridge with its 16 arches (of towers (105 m), a facade rich with figu- which 15 are still visible) over both arms re work, and an interior that captivates of the Danube. The “scorned world won- with its artworks, spaciousness, and der” is in bad shape, primarily under at- stained glass windows (fourteenth cen-

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In many places it is the old who strict- her. Young village residents meet at the ly ensure that the young preserve histo- war memorial or the bench where their ry and stories. Those who do not want grandparents got to know each other to play an extra in a local pageant, years before. From there the men – al- like grandfather and father did, have most all of them in the volunteer fire only one choice: to leave. Many tra- brigade, the female equivalent being ditions are shaped by religion, often the Catholic Women’s League – move with their roots throughout old Bava- on to their favorite inn. Women have ria, such as shaking the clattering woo- long since joined their ranks or estab- den rattles on Good Friday when the lished their own regular meetups. Also church bells fall silent. In great secu- found everywhere are singing and folk lar contrast to this is the stealing of the music clubs, as well as theater groups, bride, when the wedding guests whisk which spend the year rehearsing a pi- the bride away to another tavern and ece to perform a few times – usually in keep on drinking until the groom frees the parish hall.

tury), it is a principal Gothic work in Ba- varia. The cathedral cloister features Passau fantastic funerary monuments and the Domschatzmuseum (cathedral treasure Passau (population ~50,000) is today museum) includes delights from throug- a dazzling city. The global economy, the hout the centuries. In summer an Rhine-Main-Danube waterway, and stu- yz organ concert can be enjo- dents have been bringing the conserva- yed every Wednesday evening (www. tive provincial backwater to life since the domorgel-regeurg.de). The cathedral eighties. complex – alongside the cathedral is the Today Passau is a multicultural city with Church of St. Ulrich – is home to interes- a modern local government. Unmissa- ting chapels and architectural monu- ble is the facetted, 2000-year history ments. Domplatz of the cathedral city. Its location at the meeting point between the Inn, Danube Museum of Bavarian History and the Ilz has contributed to its nickna- Building work on the new museum be- me as “Three Rivers City” and the “Ve- gan in 2015. At the time of press, its pl- nice of Bavaria”. The eastern expansion anned opening was May 2018. According of the EU and the disappearance of bor- to the 22 million euro concept, the foyer der controls to Austria and the Czech Re- will connect the old city to the Danube public have ensured that the city is situ- and integrate Hunnenplatz. The Österrei- ated at the navel of Europe’s economic cher Stadel (a landmarked warehouse) life. The city center has been revamped will also be integrated to house the as the “New Center” with a business to- museum’s portfolio. The ground floor will wer block, car park, central bus station, be freely accessible as an appetizer for multiplex cinema, fountains, park and a the exhibition. Donaumarkt chic city gallery.

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ning of the school must continue wi- places of interest thout them. Place of interest: Roman St. Stephen’s Cathedral h frescoes and the Roman portal, former- The mother church of St. Stephen’s Ca- ly in the church of St. Marien, now in the thedral in Vienna is a Passau landmark school hall. Klosterwinkel enthroned above the old city. The chancel, transept and crossing tower are late Diocesan Museum Gothic. The nave is the largest baroque Just inside and to the right in St. cathedral construction north of the Alps. Stephen’s Cathedral is a spiral staircase Next to the window, yz che- leading to the prince-bishop’s treasure rub legs protrude from the image in the chamber with a video library and displays crossing dome: a baroque illusion by the (also accessible via the new residence). painter Tencalla – as does the hand on the balustrade left of the northern late- Freudenhain ral doorway. Enjoy a concert played on The early classicist summer castle in the world’s largest Catholic church or- Hacklberg was built in 1785 on the order gan. Domplatz of Cardinal Josef Graf von Auersperg. The grounds include a rococo garden in an Oberhausmuseum h English park. Today it is home to a high A branch of the municipal gallery, the school for music. Oberhaus Museum’s theme-based exhibitions on the salt trade, guilds and Glass museum craftsmanship, the Bohemian Forest, fire Assembled by Georg Höltl, the collection department and more are popular across includes over 30,000 exhibits of Bohemi- the regions. Immediately above the mu- an glass art from over 250 years in Ho- seum, you can enjoy the probably best tel Wilder Mann on Rathausplatz. It is the view of the city from the a Batterie Lin- world’s largest collection of its kind. Even de and the terrace of the Das Oberhaus the first man on the moon, Neil Armst- pub. A bus commutes each half hour bet- rong, was here: He opened the museum ween the city hall and Georgsberg from in 1985! Höllgasse 1 | www.glasmuse- 10 a.m. www.oberhausmuseum.de um.de

Niedernburg Monastery Hals The monastery near the highest point of Formerly ruled by a dynasty of earls, it the area was first mentioned in 888 and is today incorporated into Passau. The enjoyed its golden age as an imperial castle is in disrepair. The town hall at the abbey from 1010. It suffered badly in the marketplace is preserved with its pillo- city fires of 1662 and 1680: Of the three ries. This is where Franz Lehar composed monastery churches, the main church Wiener Frauen. Strolling along the right of St. Pantaleon and the Holy Cross re- bank of the Ilz to Hals reveals country li- main; the Parz chapel keeps the grave ving in the city. The route from the farm of St. Gisela, the former abbess and first over to the cattle track barrier is pictu- queen of Hungary. For a long time, Eng- resque. lish women ran a school for girls here. Due to a lack of replacements their Museum of Modern Art numbers have dwindled and the run- The Wörlen Foundation dedicates three

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St. Stephen’s Cathedral

stories in the old city on the Danube wa- CITY HALL terfront to world class artists. Riverside The City Hall with Bavaria’s biggest carri- windows offer a fantastic view of the Ves- lon had to be founded three times. The te and the suspension bridge. Bräugasse people first stood against it in 1298 in the 17 | www.mmk-passau.de long battle against the prince bishop and it was immediately cannoned by Ober- NEUE MITTE TURM haus. Frescoes by the historical painter The hotly discussed architecturally and Ferdinand Wagner (1890) illustrate the colorful, 38 m high, granite shale green city’s history in the halls of the city hall. building is actually supposed to become Schrottgasse even higher. For now, the top floor offers a a café with an unbeatable panora- MARIAHILF PILGRIMAGE CHURCH a mic view of the city. The tables on the Inn Another Passau landmark, it was built side have a great view of the old city and from 1624–27 on the right bank of the river Inn estuary. Nibelungenplatz river Inn. In 1683, Emperor Leopold I prayed here during the siege of Vienna OBERHAUS by the Turks. Its liberation succeeded Building work began on Veste Oberhaus with the battle cry “Maria hilf!” (“Help as a counter castle for the prince bishops us Virgin Mary!”). This is how the Maria- in 1219. In 1298, 1367 and 1387 the city’s hilf icon became the state image of mer- residents rose up against the bishops. cy of the Habsburger monarchy. Looking Peace returned in 1443 with an arbitrati- like a balcony perpendicular to the moon ruling in which Passau recognized their nastery is the ceiling over the 321 steps sovereignty. It wasn’t until secularization of the pilgrims’ staircase. From there in 1803 that new governance in the form you have a wonderful and extensive of citizen self-rule was introduced. view of the city. Mariahilfberg

document3918224015775088713.indd 47 08.11.2017 16:15:55 WELCOME TO AUSTRIA!

Austria is one huge cultural treasure chest and jewel of nature in equal measures. This makes vacations here extremely varied as the grand culture and enchanting nature often lie close to each other: the baroque monastery in the Alps National Park, the prehistoric salt mine on the shore of an idyllic lake, the Medieval castle in the midst of dense forest. And so that no one is forced to go hungry during an excursion, there are first-class refreshment opportunities almost everywhere, from traditional to trendy, which are more often than not found at the most wonderful places. The mentality of the people also means that you can enjoy everything in peace, thanks to the relaxed pace of the Austrians, who don’t like to be rushed, and which is highly catching.

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Lüpertz and more. Temporary exhibitions Linz also show international young art. Ernst- Koref-Promenade 1 | www.lentos.at The main square of the Upper Austrian state capital (population ~201,600) is Pöstlingberg a lined with baroque facades and orna- The forested town of Pöstlingberg with mented with the impressive Trinity co- its distinguished pilgrimage church sits lumn (1723) in the center. above the town as its landmark. The his- Despite being one of the biggest built-up torical cable car is the steepest on the squares in Europe, the real attraction of continent, taking you up in 20 minutes. Linz lies in its recent history as an indus- Those wishing to may also exit at the trial and, more recently, cultural metro- halfway station to visit Linz zoo. Land- polis. In 2009, Linz was the European Ca- gutstr. 19 pital of Culture. Schlossmuseum Linz a Austria’s biggest universal museum. places of interest With permanent exhibitions on nature Ars Electronica Center h and technology, as well as temporary The interactive exhibitions are about exhibitions. Unforgettable is the view people and their environment. From vari- from the terrace over the roofs of the ous perspectives, they ask questions such houses. Schlossberg 1 | www.landes- as, how have our lives evolved? How do museum.at they look today? How could they look in the future? Particularly wonderful is the Voestalpine Stahlwelt animated facade which lights up eve- Multimedia, interactive exhibition on ry evening. Ars-Electronica-Str. 1 | www. steel. A tour of the plant is the chance to aec.at see yz steel production up close. Voest-Alpine-Str. 4 | www.voestalpine.com/ Main Square stahlwelt The giant square in the heart of the city is lined by impressive houses, mostly ba- shopping roque, and is one of the biggest in the whole of Austria. In its center is a 20 m, The main road leading from the station richly decorated Trinity column in opulent to the main square is the city’s shopping baroque style (1723). House number 18 street, with big stores and covered arca- has a glockenspiel. des; smaller specialized stores and boutiques are also found in the side alleys. Lentos Art Museum The perfect gift to bring when visiting The museum with the austere facade friends is Linzer Torte (pastry with red- of glass and cement is located directly currant jam), which can be purchased in at the Danube. It is home to a conside- attractive wrapping at the Bäckerei Hof- rable collection of works of classic mo- mann (Landstr. 27), among other places. dern art, including by Gustav Klimt, Egon On Fridays between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka and Max Pech- is a farmer’s market on Linz’s main stein, as well as contemporary paintings square.g On Saturday’s between 7 a.m. by Maria Lassnig, Arnulf Rainer, Markus and 2 p.m. is a flea market.

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of 199 meters, it was built out over SALZBURG 600 years to become one of the biggest castles of central Europe. A high- Salzburg (population ~152,000) is the light are the magnificent rooms, which home of Mozart and Jedermann and a are among the most beautiful Gothic UNESCO World Heritage site. Salzburg secular rooms in Europe. www.salz- means huge churches and magnificent burg-burgen.at palaces, narrow alleyways and quiet corners. MOZART’S PLACE OF BIRTH h Looking out from the fortress or from The yellow house on Getreidegasse is a the museum of modern art’s terrace at pilgrimage site for Mozart lovers. Here, Mönchsberg is a good way to see the Wolfgang Amadeus was born on January beauty of the city and its surrounding 27, 1756. The former apartment contains area. It was salt that gave the region original musical instruments, such as and city its name. Christian missionaries Mozart’s children’s violin and clavichord, settled where Celts and Romans already as well as furniture, paintings and copies had their places of worship. The prince of letters. Getreidegasse 9 bishops then made the city into what it is, particularly Wolf Dietrich von Raite- CATHEDRAL nau, who gave it its baroque flair. Built by Santino Solari, the early Baroque building holds over 10,000 people. Eye- catching is the bright interior design, PLACES OF INTEREST which is underscored by the 75 meter HOHENSALZBURG CASTLE h high dome. The facade, with its two tow- Enthroned upon dolomite at a height ers, is an impressive backdrop for perfor-

View of the City of Salzburg

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Natural, untouched wild Alpine lands- species of animals and 1,800 spe- capes and mountain farming regions cies of plants, from chamois and gol- kept over the centuries are the two den eagles to black vanilla orchids. faces of Austria’s first national park. Hohe Tauern National Park is special It opened in 1981 and has been suc- in that from the basin on the valley to cessively expanded to become the lar- its highest point 3000 meters above gest nature reserve throughout the sea level it encompasses a huge va- Alps. 1856 km² of protected, connec- riety of habitats. Its wildest parts ap- ted areas range through the federal pear untouched. Even Hollywood has states of Carinthia, Salzburg and Ty- been here to film parts of Seven Ye- rol. The area includes around 10,000 ars in Tibet.

mances of the play Jedermann. Residenz- famous heart of the palace. www.hell- platz/Kapitelplatz brunn.at

Domquartier Museum der Moderne A tour (with audio guide) leads you from Art from the twentieth and twenty-first the magnificent rooms of the prince bi- centuries is displayed in two locations, shops’ Alte Residenz to the arcades to curated in thematic and monographic the Cathedral (Dom), in whose side ora- exhibitions: in the baroque Rupertinum tories there are now special exhibitions of the old city, as well as in the specta- and treasures of the Dom museum on cular new building at a Mönchsberg view. The tour continues to the art and high above the roofs of the city. The ar- curiosity chambers, to the Baroque pain- chitecture itself is absolutely worth see- tings of the Lange Galerie and to the pre- ing. Wiener Philharmoniker Gasse 9 and cious art treasures of the monastic Muse- Mönchsberg 32 | www.museumdermo- ums St. Peter. After looking at the Gothic derne.at chancel of Franziskanerkirche, the tour ends in the splendid Carabinieri Saal of Salzburg Museum Neue Residenz the Residenz. Residenzplatz 1 | www.dom- The former guest palace of Wolf Dietrich quartier.at is on the western side of Residenzplatz. The permanent exhibition in the magni- Hellbrunn Palace h ficent rooms focuses on Salzburg’s histo- It was commissioned in 1612 by ry, art and culture since the beginning Salzburg’s prince bishop Markus Sittikus of the modern era. Mozartplatz 1 | www. von Hohenems. As a lover of Italian art salzburgmuseum.at and culture, he entrusted the cathedral builder Santino Solari with the task. The shopping water is a defining design element, hidden in the shade of trees and bushes or Many traditional manufactures, from li- leaping forth from carefully concealed quor producers to confectioners, are lo- hideaways. The fountains are the world- cated in the romantic inner courtyards

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around Getreidegasse. Particularly long can park on the side lane, walk over the standing are, for example, Schirmhandel bridge, and arrive at beautiful beach in und -manufaktur Kirchtag in Getreidegas- two minutes. se, Alte fürsterzbischöfliche Hofapotheke on Alte Markt, Schokoladenfachgeschäft Holzermayr, Knopferlmayer on Rathaus- vienna platz, Leder- und Trachtenbekleidung Jahn-Markl, and Konditorei Schatz. How- “We may not have an emperor any- ever, before going shopping, remember more, but we still have the crown je- to fill your wallet – Salzburg is expensive. wels.” This saying reflects how Vien- na regards its grand role in history. The Vienna of today distinguishes its- Wachau elf through its vibrant music, musical and theater scene. There is also a wide Around 30 km between Melk and Krems range of cuisine and countless restau- is a narrow breakthrough valley of the rants, cafés and bars, called Beisl here, Danube, creating one of Europe’s most contributing to the unmistakable face beautiful river valleys. of the city. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Wa- Over recent years the inner city has flou- chau is characterized by vineyards, idyl- rished and is increasingly becoming a lic wine villages that have retained their luxurious area. The districts around it Medieval heritage, apricot gardens and have discarded all the gray to become impressive castles and monasteries. The a young, urban, and vibrant scene. Pub- most important sights include a the lic transport will take you right through ruin of Aggstein Castle (www.ruineagg- the city. (www.wienerlinien.at) stein.at), which sits 300 meters high on a narrow cliff over the north bank. Weis- places of interest senkirchen (www.weissenkirchen.at), with its fortified church and Teisenhofer- Albertina hof is one of the region’s most beautiful Albertina is a visitor magnet among mu- Renaissance courts and certainly worth seums. The collection, which goes back stopping at. Spitz is a picturesque market to Duke Albert von Sachsen-Teschen, in- town which has a vibrant Marillenkirtag cludes 50,000 drawings and 1 million festival on the second to last weekend of print graphics from Late Gothic to the July each year. The crowning glory of any present day. Dürer’s Betende Hände and tour of Wachau is Dürnstein. The view of Hase are part of the collection, but not the water is stunning. You can also es- always on display. A highlight is the per- cape the many tourists in Dürnstein by manent exhibition Monet to Picasso from climbing up to the a castle where Ri- the Batliner collection. Also worth seeing chard the Lionheart was imprisoned in are the rare classicist staterooms of the the twelfth century. The Gothic ossua- city palace house in the museum. Alber- ries, the Medieval pillories, and the ab- tinaplatz 3 | www.al bertina.at bey church are worth seeing there. On hot days, you can swim in the Danube Belvedere h in stunning scenery, such as at Rührsdorf A must for every visitor is the former in Rossatz (west of central Rossatz). You summer castle of Prince Eugen. The ex-

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Belvedere

pansive ground with two palaces is not and Medieval masterpieces also have only a masterpiece by Johann Lukas von their place. The “Noble Knight” lived in Hildebrandt, it is one of the most gran- the Untere Belvedere (1714–16), an only diose Baroque creations in existence. slightly more modest building that also The a Obere Belvedere (1721–23) en- has a marble hall lushly decorated with throned on a hill places all of Vienna at frescoes and stuccowork, as well as a the viewer’s feet and was built for sta- hall of mirrors and a splendid gallery. te functions by the general from Sa- The neighboring Orangerie houses tem- voy and the hero of the war against the porary exhibitions of classic modern and Turks. The elongated, masterfully orga- contemporary art. In the nearby gorge- nized building houses to this day a gal- ous stables are permanently displayed lery of Austrian art in lavishly furnished Medieval works. Between both castles rooms. At the forefront are local classics stretches a 500 meter garden that has from the Biedermeier (Ferdinand Ge- been reconstructed in the original Ba- org Waldmüller, Rudolf von Alt), Late roque style. Prinz-Eugen-Str. 27 | Renn- Romantic and Gründerzeit (Leopold Ku- weg 6 | www.belvedere.at pelwieser, Hans Makart), art nouveau, expressionism and post-war periods HOFBURG h (Egon Schiele, Oskar Kokoschka). Mo- No other building epitomizes the pow- reover, excellent works by internatio- er of the House of Habsburg more clear- nal artists are also on view, including ly than Hofburg. Hofburg is a palace-like Caspar David Friedrich, Claude Monet, complex of buildings that developed Vincent van Gogh, Emil Nolde and Ed- over centuries in the heart of Vienna. vard Munch. The visitor magnet is Gus- Today, the offices of the president and tav Klimt, whose work Der Kuss is one congress reside there among the many of the most important works of art nou- staterooms and museums. The national veau. However, the Baroque Collection library with the fascinating and magni-

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ficent reading hall is also housed the- MUSEUMSQUARTIER h re, along with the riding school, palace MQ for short, the museum complex is chapel (in which the Vienna Boys’ Choir among the ten largest cultural centers in performs on Sundays at High Mass), the the world. Numerous independent cultu- silver chamber and the treasure cham- ral initiatives are held here, but are alber that displays the throne of the em- ways in the shadow of the two interna- peror of the Holy Roman Empire along tionally renowned museums: Museum with treasures of the Order of the Golden Leopold (www.leopoldmuseum.org) dis- Fleece. During the time of their regency, plays a panorama of Austrian art from the end of the nineteenth century, with the largest Egon Schiele collection in the world and excellent works by Gustav Klimt. The MuMok (Museum Moderner Kunst Stiftung Ludwig – www.mumok.at) is home to rotating special shows of pieces from the extensive collection of international twentieth century art. The cafés and sofas of the MQ’s interior courtyard have attained cult status and there are regular free events. www.mqw.at

NASCHMARKT Vienna’s Naschmarkt is a market with a long history, but today few fruit and vegetables are sold there. The old stores have been inhabited by chic bars and delis. The Naschmarkt is Vienna’s dining mile and you can breakfast here until 4 p.m. A vibrant flea market is held here Saturdays.

SCHÖNBRUNN h The stretched, sun-yellow Baroque castle is among the most beautiful of its kind in Europe. The imperial summer residence has 40 of its 1441 magnificent rooms open to the public. Further attractions are the Baroque gardens with the a Naschmarkt Gloriette as a look-out point, as well as the palm house and the oldest zoo in the each Habsburg ruler occupied different world. Planning a whole day for your vi- premises than his predecessor. The for- sit is recommended. www.schoenbrunn. mer chambers of Sisi in the Amalia Re- at | www.zoovienna.at sidence are a highlight, particularly the dressing and exercise room of the eccen- PRATER tric empress. The huge public park draws the crowds

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with its famous a Ferris wheel (61 m Karlskirche diameter), ultra-modern rollercoasters Vienna’s most important Baroque church and flight simulators. It is encircled by a with a dome rising 72 meters high. Buil- large local recreation area. ding work was begun by Johann Bern- hard Fischer von Erlach and finished by St. Stephen’s Cathedral his son Joseph Emanuel. The fountain The basic shape of St. Stephen’s Cathe- stands in exciting contrast to the facade dral was created when the second Ro- with a sculpture of Henry Moore. man Catholic church was built at the start of the thirteenth century, before Kunsthaus later becoming a Gothic cathedral. The “All about Hundertwasser” is the motto main gate, the two Roman Towers and of the general hall in which the world’s the Western Gallery originate from this only permanent exhibition of the marve- period. The Southern Tower was com- lous realist Friedensreich Hundertwasser pleted in 1433. At a height of 136.7 me- is kept. Untere Weissgerberstr. 13 | www. ters, it was the tallest church tower in kunsthauswien.at Europe for a while, and remains the tallest in Austria to this day. An elevator as- Kunsthistorisches Museum cends to the a viewing platform that Built by Gottfried Semper and opened offers a fantastic panoramic view of the in 1891, the building houses the famous whole city. The Pummerin is conside- painting gallery of Venetian, Flemish, Old red the aural landmark of Vienna and Dutch and Old German painting from the is only heard on high holidays and spe- fifteenth to seventeenth centuries. It is cial occasions. also home to an art chamber displaying the collected knowledge of its time – oc- Ringstrasse h casionally in curious ways. Maria-Theresi- After Emperor Franz Joseph I ordered en-Platz | www.khm.at Vienna’s old fortifications to be demo- lished in 1857, he commissioned a ma- shopping gnificent boulevard in their place. This encircles the historical city center and The best and most expensive addresses leads to two points along the bank of are in Kohlmarkt and am Graben, the the Danube canal at Franz Josef Quay. neighboring Golden Quarter (Tuchlauben/ The 4.4 km ring road is lined with many Bognergasse/Am Hof), and Kärntner Stras- splendid private and public buildings se. Slightly cheaper is Innere Mariahilfer in the “ring road style”. They all imita- Strasse between the Museumsquartier U2 te the architectural styles of earlier pe- station and Westbahnhof. There are lar- riods, from Greco-Roman to Cathedral ge department stores and many interna- Gothic and Renaissance and Baroque to tional fashion chains. Between Mariahil- all kinds of style combinations from his- fer Strasse and Spittelberg, where artisan toricism. Inaugurated in 1865, this ar- wares are sold, is the home of the local fa- chitectural work of art know as the Ring shion avant-garde. zy Shopping remains unparalleled throughout Euro- tours run by yz have stylists to help you pe. Following Ringstrasse, pedestrians find what you’re looking for (www.7tm. must occasionally share the sidewalk at). Antiques are found in the narrow al- with cyclists. leyways of the first district.

document7430014227943654455.indd 55 08.11.2017 16:16:07 WELCOME TO SLOVAKIA!

The mention of Slovakia still causes most western Europeans to ponder, was it part of Yugoslavia or former Czechoslovakia? Slovakia still remains one of the least known countries of Central Europe, which most people suspect is somewhere in the east. Even for Germans living in the north it is a single day’s drive and has much to offer tourists beyond the capital city Bratislava and the picturesque High Tatras mountain range. And indeed, Slovakia now welcomes almost as many tourists as it has inhabitants – with more than four million in 2015. Tourism is one of the country’s most flourishing industries, bringing in foreign capital of more than two billion euros a year. The main attractions for foreign visitors are the untouched nature, the hospitality of the Slova- kians and the fact that, apart from beaches and sea, all the different types of central European countryside is found there. Most visitors come from the neighboring countries of Czech Republic and Poland.

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Bratislava places of interest yz Blue Church When arriving from the west, the Slo- (Modrý Kostolík) vakian capital also displays the ob- This unusual church (1910-13) is outside ligatory prefab housing estates. The of the old city, but still central. In gaudy Petržalka district, with a population swimming-pool blue, and decorated out- of 130,000, has become a city within side with tiles of the same color, this is an a city. original example of traditional art nou- In contrast, the almost fully restored veau. Bezručova ul. historical city center at the foot of the castle seems actually small. The cast- Bratislava Castle le mound served as a fortified outpost (Bratislavský Hrad) h a as far back as the time of the Romans. The angular castle sits atop a cliff with In the early Middle Ages, the German its four towers over the old city. The first colonists arrived; in 1291, the German- documented mention of it dates back to speaking Pressburg received city sta- 907. However, archeologists have found tus. As the Hungarian Pozsony, the city evidence of a much older construction became the capital after the Ottomans at this strategically important position occupied Buda in 1526. Some suc- along the Danube (2500 BC). The foun- cessors to the throne, including Ma- dation for today’s building is a const- ria Theresia, were crowned the ruler ruction from the fifteenth century. After of Hungary here. After 1918, the city the relocation of the Hungarian govern- received its Slovakian name, but the ment to here, it was “modernized” and multicultural life of the city continu- fortified. Still impressive today is the ge- ed until 1945. Many of the old inhabi- nerous Baroque staircase. The southwes- tants were driven out or left voluntari- tern, widest tower, became the Royal To- ly. The Jewish community of Bratislava wer, where the coronation insignia were was decimated during the war. With kept. Sent as a gift from Hungary, a faith- the arrival of Communist rule (1948– ful replica of the Holy Crown of Hungary 89), not only did the facades and his- was returned in the seventies. Today, the torical value of the city suffer, people’s castle is home to different museums and lives became drearier too. The situati- it is used by the president and parliament on is very different today. The capital for state visits. (population ~465,000) earns the title “young” not only because the coun- Grassalkovič palace try only received autonomy in 1993. (Grassalkovičov Palác) The flourishing economy, several uni- The summer residence of Count An- versities and vibrant cultural scene are ton Grassalkovič, it was outside the city mainly drawing the young here. Cafés, walls in the past. Now it serves as the bars and restaurants are sprouting up president’s office. The Rococo palace everywhere. Bratislava, the politi- was completed in 1760. When the flag cal, economic and cultural center of flies over the roof, the current occupant the country, is well on its way to be- is in the country. The park-like gardens coming a livable, modern city in the are largely open to the public. Access via heart of Europe. Štefánikova ul.

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Historical Museum with a collection of French Rococo art- (Historické Múzeum) works. Františkánske nám. 11 The headquarters of the historical museum are in the castle. On display are com- Primate’s Palace monly used furnishings and traditional (Primaciálny Palác) practices. A section is dedicated to histori- The pink stately building on the Prima- cal musical instruments. More significant tial square was built from 1777–81 as are the exhibits of the treasure chamber a city palace for the archbishop of Esz- in the basement. A glass cabinet protects tergom and is Slovakia’s biggest clas- the oldest artwork on Slovakian soil: the sicist building. History was written the- Venus of Moravany. It is estimated to be re in 1805: After the battle of Austerlitz, 23,000 years old and was carved from a it was here the representatives of Aust- mammoth tusk. Bratislavský Hrad ria and France signed the Peace of Press- burg. A wall board in the entrance provi- Hummel house (Hummelov Dom) des information on this. A second branch The actual birthplace of the Baroque of the municipal gallery in the Primate’s composer Johann Nepomuk Hummel Palace exhibits tapestries, paintings and (1778–1837), who was taught by Mozart, sculptures. Primaciálne nám. 1 is no longer there. However, the small exhibition on the life and works of the mu- Slavín a sician are an opportunity to discover the The way to the Slavín memorial is worth diverse musical scene of Pressburg du- it just for the panoramic view of the city ring earlier centuries in this pretty Re- and a changing perspective of the neigh- naissance building. Klobučnícka 2 boring castle. The memorial remembers the almost 7000 Slovakian soldiers who Michael’s Gate lost their lives liberating Slovakia from the (Michalská Brána) fascist government. The 40 meter granite The last remaining city gate (thirteenth column with a soldier atop is visible from century) and its tower are a city landmark. a distance. The soldier is raising a flag of Sturdy and well fortified, the tower was victory over the conquered territory. Access renovated from 1753–58, during which is via the stairs to Na Slavíne street received its delicate Baroque point with a statue of Michael. Accommodated in the Slovakian National Gallery tower is an exhibition of Medieval wea- (Slovenská Národná Galéria) pons and armor. In the Baroque house The former water barracks, so named for of the twin fort gates is a pharmaceutical their location on the Danube, are home museum that also displays the inventory to the largest municipal art collection: of the former pharmacy Lekáreň Červený Slovakian art from the Gothic period to rak. Michalská ul. 22 present day. In the adjoining Eszterházy Palace are interesting temporary exhibi- Mirbach Palace tions, including of contemporary artists. (Mirbachov Palác) nám. Ľ. Štúra č. 4 The enchanting Rococo palace with a typical wooden courtyard is home to a dis- St. Martin’s Cathedral play of Baroque paintings and statues. A (Dóm sv. Martina) h small treat are two wood panel cabinets The cathedral is an old fortified church ad-

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The oldest and best-known is Tatra Na- The Malá Fatra National Park has also tional Park (since 1948); second place been made into a natural reserve. The in size is Low Tatras (1978). Then there national parks have strict rules. Tho- are also Pieniny National Park (1967) se who transgress them can face high as well as the Slovak Paradise and fines – and park rangers make their smaller Fatra National Park. In the ni- rounds daily. Many of the information neties came the Muráň Plateau Nati- centers offer guided tours through the onal Park and the Poloniny National most beautiful areas, some of which Park on the Polish-Ukrainian border. are blocked to lone visitors.

joining the city wall, which is why its entrance is somewhat hidden. Construction over a previous Roman building began in the fourteenth century, resulting in the three-aisled cathedral. Its significance lies primarily in some of its decorations and its former function as a coronation cathedral. Only the font (1403) remains from the Go- thic period. Between 1563 and 1830, eight Hungarian kings and a few spouses were crowned here. The cathedral was decorated in the lush Baroque style to create worthy surroundings for the elaborate ce- remonies. However, at the end of the nineteenth century, the decorations were partially removed. Still available to admire today are the chapel of St. John the Mer- ciful and the large sculpture of St. Martin to the right of the altar. Both works are by the Baroque artist Georg Raphael Donner. St. Martin’s Cathedral Rudnayovo nám. 1 For classical music and new music there is Hummel Music (Klobučnícka 2). The wine SHOPPING store Vinotéka Sv. Urbana offers a lar- A long pedestrian zone around Michalská ge selection of domestic wines. Tastings ulica makes a shopping stroll a pleasure. with food are possible (Klobučnícka 4). If The municipal arts and crafts center (ÚĹUV you would like to see how Slovakians love | Obchodná 64 | www.uluv.sk) lets you see to go shopping, visit the Aupark depart- behind the scenes and even try your hand ment store on the right bank of the Da- working different materials. Good music nube: In addition to international fashion stores for pop, folk and jazz are Artforum and sports brands, there are also local (Kozia 20) and Dr. Horák (Medená 19). products available.

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Breathtaking views, glorious relaxation in thermal pools: Many places across Hungary combine fantastic countryside, leisure enjoyment, and a rich heritage of a thousand years of history. The numerous bathing paradises and returning wineries have transformed more and more places and regions into oases of well-being. Magnificent cities nestle in mountainous regions, unique steppes, idyllic lakes and countryside marked by rivers follow the paths of the Danube and Tisza. Traveling through Hungary means experiencing, above all, exceptionally diverse nature and the revival of an enormous cultural heritage. The diversity of the nature ranges from the fauna and flora of the Pannonian Steppe to the still untouched forests of Bakony, the wine regions, and the Alpine foothills in the west. Discovering the cultural treasures there is like taking a fascinating trip back through time. The Roman era comes alive in excavations such as Tác-Gorsium or the garden ruins in the midst of Szombathely.

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Danube Swabians are the people tracts of land were half a million brought to Central and Southern Germans, who primarily came from Europe by the Habsburg family in south Germany. They were all consi- the late seventeenth and eigh- dered “Swabians”. After the end of teenth centuries following the de- World War II, the majority of the vastating occupation of the Turks. Hungarian-Germans were driven To help rebuild Hungary, primarily out. Today around 130,000 live in farmers and craftsmen were Hungary as German minorities. To brought over. Among the migrants this day, they preserve their culture who were to settle the devastated and language.

chamber includes garments and liturgi- Esztergom cal objects since the Carolingian period. The dome offers a wonderful view. But From the direction of Visegrád, the bight a warning for those scared of heights: of the Danube and the mountain castle The platform is no wider than a single with the basilica offer a fantastic view. foot. Szent István tér | www.bazilika-esz- For the most beautiful approach to Esz- tergom.hu tergom (population ~28,500), park in SzentIstván tér. Once there, don’t take Castle complex (VÁr) / the steps up to the basilica, but go back Castle Museum (VÁrmúzeum) a a short way and a follow the street up. The museum complex alongside the ca- Esztergom, formerly a royal palace and thedral includes a restored castle and the archbishop’s residence, is, in the con- former royal palace (Királyi palota). In sciousness of the Hungarian people, the the Middle Ages the area came into the cradle of the nation and was a royal resi- possession of the church, whose most se- dence for 250 years. nior representatives lived as luxuriously as the secular rulers. The former reception rooms of the archbishop are adorned places of interest by magnificent murals from the early Re- Basilica of the Blessed Virgin naissance, including a fresco by Sandro Mary Assumed Into Heaven Botticelli (1444–1510). Szent István tér 1 (Főszekesegyház) h a | www.mnmvarmuzeuma.hu The classicist church is about 118 meters long and 48 meters wide and was built Christian Museum between 1822–69. It is Hungary’s biggest (KeresztÉny MÚzeum) church. The 100 meter high central dome Outstanding collection in the former pa- has a diameter of 35 meters. Franz Liszt lace of the Primate of Hungary (inclu- composed Graner Mass for the consecra- ding Medieval panel paintings, sculp- tion of the cathedral in 1856. The Bakó- tures, works by Italian masters, and cz chapel inside was built by Italian mas- tapestries). Mindszenty tér | www.keresz- ter craftsmen from 1506–11. The treasure tenymuzeum.hu

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Round Church Kta olikus Plébániatemplom) a (Kerek Templom St. Anna) The church is the only remaining witness The impressive building (built 1828–37) of the old fortified village of St. Andreas. with its columned entrance was designed In the eighteenth century, it was redesig- by the master cathedral builder Johann ned in the Baroque style by Catholic Croa- Pákh. Rudnay tér | on the road to Dorog tians. The church square offers a beautiful view over the town. On the castle hill szentendre (Templomdomb) Margit-Kovács-museum The h Fő tér (main place) lies close to The ceramic artist and sculptor Margit Ko- the Danube boulevard (Dunakorzó) and vács (1902–77) spent many years abroad is the heart of the city. The iron-wrought before settling in Szentendre in 1960. The plague cross from 1752 is also here. museum offers a comprehensive over- Since the thousand-year anniversary ce- view of her art. In 2011, the building was lebrations of Szentendre in 2010, exten- reopened after renovations and the ad- sive renovation work has been done in dition of a new wing. the old city center of this historical jewel. Szentendre was established in the ele- Annunciation Church venth century as Sanctus Andreas. The (Blagovestenska-kirche) city experienced its golden years as a The late-Baroque Orthodox church (built trade center at the end of the seven- 1752–54) has a dazzlingly beautiful wall teenth century, thanks to the Serbian of icons (Iconostasis). Above the side merchants and craftsmen who had fled entrance is Constantine the Great with there. The city enjoyed a rebirth with a St. Helena, his mother, available for vie- local colony of artists founded at the end wing. Opposite the church, the castle of the 1920s. Many art museums serve steps lead to the a castle mound. Fő tér testament to their creations. Most of the museums are closed between the end of shopping October and the end of March. During the season, most are open 10 a.m. to 6 Folk art stores are primarily found in the p.m. Tuesday to Sunday. alleyways of Fő tér. It’s worth exploring all the alleyways because there are many boutiques and antique shops to places of interest be found. Open-Air Museum (Skanzen) Buildings from all over the country have been built over the 46 hectares of land. Btudapes A treat is the Greco-Catholic church from Mándok (1670). There is also an exhi- On one side is the hilly Buda with a cast- bition on living and everyday culture in le hill and a fisherman’s bastion. On the Hungary from the mid-eighteenth cen- other is the flat Pest, with the parlia- tury. ASztaravodai út | www.skanzen.hu | ment. Between them are the Danube on the road to Visegrád, 3 km north-west and its bridges.Budapest is as spectacu- of Szentendre lar as it is well-located. Catholic Parish Church (Római The eclectically characterized face of the

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Fisherman’s Bastion

city (population ~1.76 M) is the result of FISHERMAN’S BASTION an unparalleled construction boom in the (HALÁSZBÁSTYA ) h a nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The The steps and bastion ensemble was most important sights are close to each built on the walls of a Medieval fortress other on the castle hill and the inner city complex from 1899–1906. The name re- of Pest. fers to the fact that the fisherman’s guild was responsible for defending this part of the castle wall in earlier times. PLACES OF INTEREST Szentháromság tér BUDA CASTLE (BUDAVÁRI PALOTA) The first (and later completely dest- GELLÉRT HILL (GÉLLERTHEGY) royed) royal residence was built in the 135 meters high, the hill features a liberty thirteenth century. Building work on a statue over the Buda’s bank of the Danu- Baroque palace began in 1715. After be. The citadel at the peak offers the wi- World War II, the castle palace was gi- dest view over the city. At the foot of the ven a neo-Baroque face. It houses the hill, near the freedom bridge (Szabadság national library and several museums. híd) shines the magnificent and famous Szent György tér Gellért thermal bath (Kelenhegyi út 4 |

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www.gellertbad.hu), where you can relax ding antiques and graphics). The most si- from sightseeing with a vigorous massa- gnificant is the gallery of old masters. Dóz- ge. Szirtes út | Citadella sétány sa György út 37 | www.mucsarnok.hu

zy HOUSE OF HUNGARIAN MARGARET ISLAND (MARGITSZIGET) ART NOUVEAU (MAGYAR SZECESSZIÓ The 2.5 km long and 500 m wide island in HÁZA) the Danube is a relaxation and entertain- The Bedő building (1903) and its fur- ment park with hotels, open-air stages, in- nishings are an Art Nouveau work of art door and outdoor pools, a Japanese garden that has been turned into a wonderful and a monastery ruin. It’s ideal for a long private museum. Honvéd utca 3 | www. walk and taking a break in nature. Or for jog- ging along the island’s idyllic running track

OPERA (OPERAHÁZ) A magnificent building (1875–84) by Miklós Ybl. The theater hall captivates with its luxurious gold leaf, splendid chandeliers and murals. Best viewed during a performance. Tickets are often available last minute online. They can also be printed out at the desk. Andrássy út 22 | www.opera.hu

PARLIAMENT (ORSZÁGHÁZ) From 1885 to 1902, around 1000 people worked on the building each day. It is 268 meter long and up to 118 meters wide. With it, the architect Imre Steindl created eclecticism. By tour guide only. Preferably buy tickets in advance, but there are also often free places at the last minute. The new, chic visitors center is in the fully renovated Kossuth tér. Kossuth Lajos tér | www.parlament.hu

Market Hall CITY FOREST (VÁROSLIGET) Primarily on offer in the large city park is magyarszecessziohaza.hu the small castle. For some it is kitsch, for others it’s an eclectic fairytale. There is HALL OF ART (MŰCSARNOK) AND MU also the Zoological Garden (www.zoobu- SEUM OF FINE ARTS (SZÉPMŰVESZETI dapest.com) and a circus (www.fnc.hu). MÚZEUM) Both classicist buildings on Heldenplatz ST. STEPHEN’S BASILICA (SZENT IST were completed in 1895 and 1906. The VÁN BAZILIKA) Hall of Art displays temporary exhibitions The city’s largest church offers 8500 of contemporary art. The Museum of Fine places and a 96 meter high dome. Built Arts houses permanent collections (inclu- 1851–1905, it is in the Neo-Renaissance

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style. Szent István tér | www.bazilika.biz small town (population ~17,000) is rich in Baroque splendor. The archbishopric (established in 1008 shopping by King Stephen) was the second most The shopping high street Váci utca is com- important bishop seat after Esztergom. pletely pedestrianized. More original than Kalocsa is also famous for its sweet pep- the upper section is the section between per fields and vibrant folk art. The train Szabad sajtó út and Fővám tér. Around station (1882) is wonderfully painted in Móricz Zsigmond körtér (near Gellért this tradition. baths), the zy small stores have retained their old style – from clothes to places of interest hats to hairdressers, who are definitely not frequented by tourists. Cta hedral (Főszekesegyház) h The Medieval cathedral was destroyed during the war of religions. The Baroque ar- Puszta chbishopric church was built 1735–54. The interior is decorated by fine stucco doors The Puszta! For visitors, the typical Hunga- and Baroque altars. Szentháromság tér rian countryside is a romantic myth. In Hungarian, the land to the east of the Da- Archbishop’s Palace nube is called alföld. (Érseki palota) The Puszta begins south of the Budapest– The wonderful Baroque residence from Debrecen line. It is bordered to the west by 1776 houses a unique library. Szenthá the Danube, to the east by Romania, to the romság tér 1 south by Serbia and Montenegro. The de- solation of a once heavily forested area is yz sweet pepper museum the result of the Mongol invasion in the (Paprika Múzeum) thirteenth century and one hundred and fif- The history of sweet peppers in the regi- ty years of Turkish rule. The people fled to on (Kalocsa is the sweet pepper capital) the fortified market regions and the land and their use in the cuisine of the peop- withered to a desolate Steppe in which le is charmingly explained before your wandering shepherds scraped by with a mi- eyes. Szentháromság tér 2–3 serable existence. In the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, some of the market re- Károly-Viski-Museum gions flourished into cities and the typical (Viski Károly Múzeum) Puszta isolated farmsteads (tanya) arose. A local history museum with different Today, most of the region is used for live- collections (folk art, minerals, coins, pre- stock (geese, turkeys, cattle, horses) and for cious stones). István király utca 25 farming vegetables, fruit and wine. The original Puszta nature survived in the national shopping parks Hortobágy and Kiskunság. House of Folk Art (Népművészeti ház) Kalocsa A restored farmhouse exhibits famous Kalocsa needlework and other typical lo- The cathedral square of the peaceful, cal folk art. Tompa Mihály utca 5–7

document2159229752118657495.indd 65 08.11.2017 16:15:58 WELCOME TO SERBIA!

From Budapest, the ships glide out into the Hungarian part of the Pannonian Basin. At the border of Croatia and Serbia, the Danube has traveled, with 1433 km of river behind it, over half the journey from the Black Forest to the Black Sea. The section of the Danube forming the border between Croatian Slovenia in the west and Serbian Vojvodina in the east is almost 150 km long. The precise border resulting from the bitter war of 1991–95 continues to be disputed because the Croatians would like to keep the old Danube bights on the east bank. Currently, the border is in the middle of the river.

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Even the first impression from the ship is positive. The Danube, at 1260 km, forms a wide arc to the north. On the right cliff bank protrudes the expansive Petrovaradin Fortress. On the left bank is the city center. And over everything is a sliver of the southern ease that makes life in Novi Sad (population ~300,000) enjoyable.

PLACES OF INTEREST INNER CITY From the dock it’s only a few minutes along Dunavska street to the cozy city center. On the water you pass the pretty Dunavski park and the Museum der Vo- jvodina (Dunavska 35-37 | www.muzej- vojvodine), which has an extensive archeological and ethnographic collection. The Dunavska feeds into the pedestrian zone Zmaj Jovina, whose southern ca- fés quickly fill with young people on mild The Name of Mary Chruch summer evenings – Novi Sad is a popular university town. To the left the pedestrian zone leads to Trg Slobode (Liberty nube. For the plans they engaged the re- Square), which is dominated by the Neo- nowned French fortress builder Sébasti- Renaissance City Hall and the Neo-Gothic en Le Prestre de Vauban, who was tasked The Name of Mary Church. The Hungari- with building an impregnable strong- an architect György Molnár is responsib- hold. After Prinz Eugen was able to repel le for both buildings. This neighborhood a renewed Turkish assault near Petrova- still displays strong signs of its Hungari- radin in 1716, the power of the Habsburg an heritage. family was ensured in Novi Sad for the next 200 years. Petrovaradin’s lower PETROVARADIN FORTRESS h town is reached on foot via Duga bridge. However, Novi Sad’s most important Stairs lead from the Franciscan church sight is on the opposite shore of the Da- up through the Ludwig bastion to the nube. Following peace in neighboring 110 hectare fortress. The terrace offers a Karlowitz (today Sremski Karlovci), the beautiful view over the Danube and in- Habsburgs were able to take Vojvodina ner city. The fortress’ sights include the from the Ottomans in 1699, and imme- 16 km of subterranean corridors as well diately began building out Petrovaradin as the Novi Sad Municipal Museum in the Fortress, which lies high above the Da- heart of the fortress.

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parently here they could drink their Tur- belgrade kish coffee in peace and enjoy the view over the Sava and Danube. A comme- The white city (population ~1.7 milli- morative stone at the entrance of the on) lies at the confluence of the Danu- park serves as a reminder of the hando- be and Sava. The first foothills of the ver of Belgrade’s fortress to prince Mihail Balkan Mountain Range begin here. And in 1867. The date is significant to Belgra- here beats the heart of modern Serbia. de as the end of the 350 years of Otto- Belgrade is an extremely vibrant and dy- man rule. The open area in front of the namic city, which is primarily known for fortress was converted into a park. Today, its turbulent nightlife. the people of Belgrade stroll here, play chess, and meet and chat – Kalemegdan is a very relaxing place. places of interest Cathedral and Palace h Belgrade Fortress h The cathedral was built between 1837 Through the Karadjorde Gate is the and 1845 as a visible sign of the gro- fortress’s outer area. Further on you wing Serbian autonomy in the face of pass the impressive inner Stambol Gate the Ottoman Empire. Until the comple- and the prominent Sahat Tower (clock tion of the Church of Saint Sava, it was tower) on the way into the inner area. the center of the religious communi- The last two gates in particular continue ty. On the other side of the street is the to testify to the impressive defensibility patriarch’s residence. A visit to the neigh- of the fortress. There have been fortifi- boring museum in the Palace of Princess cations on the plateau since the time of Ljubica is worth it. The wife of the Serbi- the Celts. The Romans founded the town an prince Miloš Obrenović was given the of Singidunum here and all later rulers house located in a small park as her re- – Hungarian, Turkish, Austrian, Serbian sidence in 1831. Inside are typical interi- – quickly established defenses once in or furnishings from the nineteenth cen- possession of the city. Most of the fort- tury. Of primary interest are the Ottoman ress gates in this area of the complex salons. Only later were Central European go back to the middle of the eighteenth styles adopted. century, when the Ottomans erected The Kralja Petra leads to the pedestrian comprehensive defenses after taking zone in the Knez Mihailova. This popular the city back from the Austrians. An Ot- strolling and café mile connects the mo- toman general from the eighteenth cen- dern inner city to Belgrade’s fortress on tury is commemorated with a hexago- the right and Kalemegdan park on the nal mausoleum situated diagonally left left. behind Sahat Tower. The Damad-Ali-Pa- scha Türbe is a rare piece of Ottoman Kalemegdan Park heritage. In contrast, on the north side The park’s name comes from the Turkish of the fortress’s bastion, the naked figu- for “battlefield”. Here, between the fort- re of the Victor (by Ivan Meštović) com- ress and the city was an open space the memorates liberty. The dove in the left military kept clear as a shooting range. hand and the sword in the right unite For the Ottomans however, Kalemegdan peace and war. However, the Serbian was a place of meditation because ap- people take issue with the hero’s na-

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Chruch of St. Sava

kedness ... pels into the former lower town on the From the bastion, the view of the Sava banks of the Danube. The Austrians built goes all the way to New Belgrade, which barracks here. Today, one walks over a was expanded as a socialist model city green meadow in which unexpected re- after World War II. The Austro-Hungari- mains of the old fortress stand. an empire began on the other side of the river up until 1918. The Veliko Rat- CHURCH OF SAINT SAVA no Ostravo (Great War Island) is a natu- On the horizon of the Terazije and Kral- ral reserve and important relic of the old ja Milana it is possible to make out the Danube-Auen. Looking north from the silhouette of the Church of Saint Sava. fortress walls, over the endless Panno- Saint Sava was a prince’s son and is con- nian Basin, it is possible to understand sidered the founder of the Serbian Or- why the fortress was so strategically im- thodox Church. The monumental buil- portant. Belgrade was one of the most ding serves as a sign of the church’s important junctions between the East greatness since the end of the Tito era. and the West. Further along, the fort- With a dome height of 80 meters and ress wall leads back to the fifteenth cen- standing room for 15,000 people, it is tury. Both the impressive ruins of the the third largest Orthodox church in the Dizdar Tower and Gate, as well as the Zi- world. dan Gate go back to the time when Ser- bia, Hungary and Turkey fought over the NEBOJŠA TOWER & SAVA ESTUARY rule of Belgrade. Between the two ga- A relic of the lower town worth seeing is tes leads a path past two Orthodox cha- the Nebojša Tower (Kula Nebojša), which

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Iron Gate

was restored and converted into a muse- National Museum catch the eye. North- um in 2011. From the fifteenth century, the east of the square adjoins the atmos- tower defended Belgrade’s harbor mouth. pheric restaurant Skadarska alleyway, Today, it provides a glimpse into the early which provides evening entertainment nineteenth centuries. with music. A little Balkan romance is From here, you can go over the pretty bou- found here. levard along the Sava estuary, past the numerous restaurants and cafés, back to the UNIVERSITY DISTRICT harbor. Around Studentski Trg square are the central university buildings. Worth seeing is CITY CENTER h the Ethnographic Museum with its di- The lively pedestrian zone of Knez Mi- verse exhibition on traditional costume hailova connects Kalemegdan park to and farming lifestyle culture. Included the modern inner city. Here the city’s in the carnival costumes on display are young people hang about the many Busójárás masks from Mohács in Hun- cafés and there is always something gary. A few streets further is the Bajrak- happening in the evenings. Halfway li Mosque in which is the Gospodar Jev- between, the Muzej Zepter (Knez Mi- remova – an important monument from hailova 42 | www.zeptermuseum.rs) ex- the Ottoman period. It was built in 1575 hibits contemporary art on three sto- and is still used today. Everything is fur- ries. The building of the former Bank of nished with prayer mats and the minaret Croatia (built 1922) alone is worth see- is still preserved. If the mosque is open, ing. Around the central Republic Square please remove your shoes before ente- (Trg Republike) the National Theater and ring.

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other side of Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra is where the Serbian parliament (Dom Narodne Skupš tine) is sited.

SHOPPING The small market Zeleni is always lively and provides the people of Belgrade with fresh fruit, vegetables, fish and meat. IRON GATE

Sailing down the Danube, ships pass two fortresses on the way to the Iron Gate on the southern bank. Smedero- vo and Golubac were built in the fifteenth century with elaborate effort as a way of standing up against the Otto- man attackers. However, the effort was fruitless and the Hungarians and Serbi- ans had to yield the field to the Turks at OLD & NEW PALACEh the beginning of the sixteenth century. To the south, extending from Repub- Golubac (approx. 130 km from Belgra- lic Square is the long and broad Ter- de) marks the start of the 100 km long azije boulevard, which becomes the section of beautiful countryside that is Kralja Milana and leads to the Old Pa- today known as the Iron Gate. At the lace (Stari dvor) and the New Palace end of the narrow valley, at the 934 km (Novi dvor), which was built in 1918. mark, is the Djerdap I power station. In The Obrenović dynasty that ruled Ser- 1964, the Romanian chief of state Ghe- bia at the end of the nineteenth cen- orgiu-Dej and his Yugoslavian counter- tury governed from the Old Palace. part Marschall Tito decided on the con- However, the royal family was ill-fated struction of the mammoth community and King Alexander and his wife were power station. The water level was murdered in the palace in 1903. The raised by up to 35 meters. 17 villages Karadjordjević dynasty came to pow- were flooded in 1972 and 25,000 peo- er as a result. Its royals also didn’t all ple had to be resettled. Also submer- die of natural causes; King Alexander I ged was a small island a little further of Yugoslavia was murdered in 1934. up from the dam. It had been a Turkish The residence was then moved to its enclave and enjoyed a fairly exotic sta- current position at the edge of the city tus. The height of Djerdap I is so im- to the Royal Palace. Today, Belgrade’s mense that the dammed waters reach municipal government is housed in almost all the way to Belgrade. The lo- the Old Palace. The federal president wer course of the Danube begins at the resides in the New Palace and on the power station.

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“For Heaven’s sake! Why would you go there?” This is probably the most common response upon hearing of a trip to Romania. Yes, why would you go to this country on the edge of the EU? To a country that most associate only with headlines about corruption and discrimination? They would be amazed. Romania actually has almost everything a traveler could wish for: Those seeking peace and solitude will find it in the remote, untouched mountains of the West Car- pathians, which are home to many peaceful monasteries sporting beautifully painted facades, such as Suceviţa in north Moldavia and the gently rolling hills of Tran- sylvania, like the thinly populated Harbach valley (Valea Hârtibaciului), in which life moves at a slow pace.

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den and a wine cellar. Bucharest enjo- Bucharest yed its first Golden Age around 1900 when the Hohenzollern dynasty began The city on the Steppe (population ~2.3 to build frantically, following the examp- million), called Bucureşti in Romania, le of the French Fin de Siècle. The priva- splits opinion. Many Romanians hate te builders had a lot of freedom. For this it, but no fewer love it for its raw Bal- reason, some areas display a charming kan flair and certain savoir-vivre. diversity of styles. Houses in the old Ro- The Bucharest-haters complain of the manian style of columns and decora- general aggressiveness of the people ted circular arches stand alongside Ita- there. Fast drivers harass pedestrians lian-style villas, Gründerzeit alongside over the crosswalks and park inconside- Bauhaus and Art Decó. Many buildings rately in front of garage entrances and were destroyed during Allied bombing on sidewalks. The traffic is a constant raids in 1944, others by the earthqua- potential source of causing a stroke. Ex- ke of 1977. Particularly devastating how- haust fumes pollute the air. Bucharest- ever was the thirst for destruction dis- lovers treasure dancing on the edge of played by Nicolae Ceauşescus in the a nervous breakdown because it high- eighties. He laid three old neighbor- lights the unmistakable humor of the hoods to waste to create space for his Romanian capital. Typical residents are monstrous People’s House. 20 chur- quick-witted, a little mean, and self-de- ches were leveled by the earthquake. precating. Eight were saved by relocation. Today Visually, Bucharest is split into cont- they stand squashed between dull te- radictory worlds. In the north are the nement blocks. green villa neighborhoods of politici- With all its contradictions, Bucharest of- ans and diplomats, bordered by the fers a vibrant, exuberant image. More huge Herăstrău park. The city center is and more restaurants are opening, divided into a cross of the vibrant bou- most offering Italian cuisine and de- levards of Bălcescu, Magheru, Elisabe- sign. Elegant people saunter along the ta and Carol. To the south are run-down inner city boulevards. On the corners prefab housing quarters in which the stand Romany women in colorful skirts, majority of minor civil servants, wor- selling flowers. Almost everyone speaks kers, teachers and students live. In the English or French. middle is the poor Romany neighborhood of Ferentari. Not all dare to en- places of interest ter for fear of violent crime. Bucharest’s market area was first mentioned in Village Museum 1459. The name of the place goes back (Muzeul Satului) to a shepherd called Bucur, who once The impressive open-air museum is in the built a fortified home here, a so-called middle of Herăstrău park to the north of han. The most famous caravansary, Ha- the city center. It displays around 300 cen- nul lui Manuc (Str. Franceză 62–64 | Tel. turies-old farmhouses, churches and mills 021 313 14 11 | www.hanumanuc.ro), from around the country. In the summer was built in the nineteenth century. To- there is a regular zy market day the pub is home to Romanian and selling organic products.g Access Şoseaua Lebanese cuisine, as well as a beer gar- Kisseleff

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Museum of Romanian Farmers were torn down during the Communist (Muzeul Ţăranului Român) h era. Str. Poştei 6 The award-winning museum displays old costumes, folk art, tools and Chris- National Gallery tian cult objects. Of particularly signifi- (Muzeul Naţional de Artă) cance are two wooden churches from The National Gallery in the former ro- the seventeenth and eighteenth centu- yal palace displays the whole gamut ries. The yz museum shop is of Romanian paintings from the tenth highly recommended. There are, among century to Modernity – with more than other things, original, old farmer texti- 70,000 exhibits. Significant names are les that farmers’ wives are still clearing the painter Theodor Aman and Gheor- out of the chests and bringing to the ghe Tăttărascu, the founder of the Ro- museum. There are also ceramics and manian art academy at the close of the CDs of authentic folk music. Şoseaua nineteenth century. There are also art- Kisseleff works from the fifteenth century and later by German, Dutch, Italian and French Parliament Palace masters. Palatul Regal | Piaţa Revoluţiei | (Palatul Parlamentului) h www.mnar.arts.ro Built by the dictator Ceauşescu, the monstrous palace is 450,000 m² and, Museum of History after the Pentagon in Washington, the (Muzeul Naţional de Istorie) second biggest building in the world. The entire history of Romania under one For many people of Bucharest it is an ar- roof. Highlights are the treasure cham- chitectural wonder. It is certainly worth ber with the coronation crown of the Ro- seeing if only for its ugliness and immen- manian queens and jewelry from the sity. 700 architects and 20,000 workers pre-Roman era. Of particular value is a worked on it 24 hours a day for five ye- collection of Gothic objects from the fifth ars. Its 3000 rooms, 60 corridors and 64 century: Precious stone-encrusted vases, reception halls are decorated with kitsch fibulas, rings, plates and bowls made of marble reliefs. From the ceilings hang gold, which were discovered in the village crystal chandeliers that weigh tons. The of Pietroasa in the Carpathians in 1876. A building costs of 3.5 billion USD caused curiosity found in the Stone Age section the people additional misery. Atop an ar- is “The Thinker of Hamangia” (Gânditorul tificial hill, the palace dominates a newly de la Hamangia). The clay statuette looks built avenue in the same style. Today the like a modern sculpture, but is 6000 years House of Representatives and numerous old and was found near Cernavodă at the government agencies are housed here. Black Sea. Calea Victoriei 12 Bd. Unirii Herăstrău Park Stavropoleos Church h With its greenery stretching over 187 hec- With elaborate wooden carvings in the tares, the park at the north end of the Neo-Brâncoveanu style, it is Bucharest’s city serves as its lungs. Playgrounds, most beautiful church in the old mer- two lakes, rowboats and paddleboats chant district. The interior courtyard hou- for hire, as well as café terraces all lure ses the remains of frescoes and churches many visitors when the weather is good. from Bucharest’s historical center, which Şoseaua Kisseleff

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The Danube Delta is a Mecca for na- 100,000 floating islands of reeds live ture lovers and adventurous vaca- pelicans found nowhere else in Europe, tioners. Tributaries feed the wide ri- along with wild boar, foxes, muskrats, ver along its 2840 km journey into deer and cormorants. Altogether the- the Black Sea. At Tulcea it divides into re are 1,688 types of plant and 3,864 three major distributaries: The Chilia types of animal, of which around 300 to the north, the Sulina in the middle, are types of bird and 160 are types and the Sfântu Gheorghe to the south. of fish. Just 14,500 people share this Between them lies a labyrinth of ca- paradise with them. They live from nals, lakes, swamps, reed marsh and fishing and harvesting reeds, and resi- forests. 80% of the delta region, which de in villages along the canals or on is- totals 4,500 km², consists of water. On lands in the swamp.

University Square rest in the northern inner city, where the (Piaţa Universităţii) farmers expect wealthy customers. The The square in front of the Classicist uni- modern market hall is home to a rich of- versity building (1875) is rich in history. fering and the prices are put up accordin- It is here that protesters against the ex- gly. The side alleys have many delicates- Communists in government gathered in sen markets. Piaţa Doboranţi May 1990. The ongoing demonstrati- on was brutally ended by hordes of vi- Lipscani-Viertel olent miners, who were called in by the The oldest merchant district in Bucha- new President Ion Iliescu. Crossing Bd. rest – on the Biserica Curtea Veche. Bălcescu and Bd. Regina Elisabeta In the winding streets of Lipscani (Leipzig), Blănari (furrier) and Kova- Revolution Square ci (smith) small stores and workshops (Piaţa Revoluţiei) stand alongside each other. You can It was here that the high point of the find everything there that you would bloody revolution played out in 1989. It in a department store – just cheaper: was from the roof of the former building clothing and fabrics, food, screws and of the Central Committee of the Roma- bathroom tiles. Lipscani street is so nian Communist Party, opposite the Ro- called because German import goods yal Palace, that the dictator and his wife were sold here around 300 years ago. fled by helicopter from angry demonstra- Particularly enticing is the gallery pa- tors – three days before he was executed. radise Hanul cu Tei (Blănari 5–7). Hea- Minutes before, Ceauşescu had given his vy black wrought-iron doors and store last speech from the balcony. windows adorn the stores designed by artists in this courtyard. Here is where painters buy their easels, screens and shopping paints. The galleries display contem- Dorobanţi market porary Romanian art and all sorts of The place for the well-heeled of Bucha- things for the home.

document679046463897262215.indd 75 08.11.2017 16:16:06 FRANCE Rhône & Saône

rg undy Bu

Chalon-sur-Saône

Mâcon

Saône Lyon

Ardèche Rhône

Avignon

Arles ce en Prov

M e d i te rr an ean Sea 76

document2308542312518535793.indd 76 08.11.2017 16:16:00 FRANCE

rg undy Bu

Chalon-sur-Saône

Mâcon

Saône Lyon WELCOME TO SOUTHERN FRANCE!

Ardèche High mountains, deep valleys, eternal ice and burning heat, snow-white peaks and Rhône the azure sea – the southeast of France brings together contrasts like no other corner of the country. Rhône Valley and the Alps, Provence and the Côte-d’Azur, Languedoc and Roussillon (with its Catalan influences) – all these places are favored by the weather and offer regions rich in nature and glorious countryside. Bathing spots and excellent restaurants abound in the Côte d’Azur. The coastline, with its pebble beaches in the east Avignon and white, sandy beaches and islands in the west is considered a chic refuge of relaxation. The hinterland is a vibrant idyll of lavender fields, olive groves and fields of Arles ce white roses around the perfumery town of Grasse. In sharp contrast, the northeast is en Prov crowned by Mont-Blanc (4809 m), the highest mountain of the Alps. From the mountain down into the valley runs the Rhône slightly further north, meeting the Saône in Lyon before traveling further south, past Avignon and Arles before running into M the Mediterranean in Camargue. East of Rhône lie the rolling hills of Provence, with e the mountain villages of Luberon, the towns of Aix-en-Provence and Marseille, and d i te the three legendary mountains Mont Ventoux, Montagne Sainte-Victoire and Mas- rr sif de la Sainte-Baume. an ean Sea

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Walk alonge the Rhône markets, trade shows and sports events.

places of interest C roix-Rousse This district of the city is home to many of the traboules typical to the old city – narrow passages and alleyways, corridors partly interconnected in a labyrinthine way, courtyards and stairways. The hill is named so because of a red stone cross that marked a crossroads before the Re- volution. Today, the steeply ascending district, formerly the center of the silk industry, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Musée des Beaux-Arts The museum exhibits one of France’s richest collections of paintings, with works by Paolo Veronese, Peter Paul Rubens, lyon Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso and Hen- ri Matisse. 20, Place des Terreaux | www. h The wealthy city of Lyon (populati- mba-lyon.fr on ~450,000) is the third largest city in France, situated at the confluence of Musée Lumière Saône and Rhône. Earning their livelihood making photo- Biochemistry and high-tech firms have graphic plates, it was in the Lumière fa- replaced the old printing and silk indus- mily apartment that Auguste and Louis tries and have made Lyon a flourishing developed cinematography. 21, Rue du economic center. Over recent years, the 1er Film | www.institut-lumiere.org city has also been making efforts to elevate itself culturally: with biennales, con- Presqu’île certs, theater, minor arts, opera, ballet, The peninsula between Saône and Rhô- fragrant fields

The lavender fields are in full bloom you see are often not lavender but from June to August: violet blossoms rather a crossbreed of wild and Eng- as far as the eye can see. Approximate- lish lavender. Those hybrids have a ly 70 percent of global lavender oil pro- stronger scent and are perfectly suited duction and 90 percent of hybrid la- to pharmaceutical products and cos- vender oil are from Provence. When metics. English lavender, on the other you pass through this area, the plants hand, is oiler and has a milder scent.

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ne is abundant in squares. Two of the numents. Even the old Mâcon Cathedral most beautiful are the large, rectangu- is but a ruin. lar Place Bellecour and Place des Terreaux The vineyards of Mâcon stretch to the at the city hall. The peninsula is also a pa- city limits, producing fruity white wines radise for shopping and going out (Rue and sun-kissed red wines. Equally nu- du Président Édouard Herriot). In the very merous and characteristic of the city are south, at the confluence of the Rhône the merchant houses from the early ni- and Saône, international star architects neteenth century. are building the yz La Conflu- ence on industrial wasteland (est. com- places of interest pletion 2030). (www.lyon-confluence.fr). Eye-catchers are architectural icons such Hôte l-Dieu as the two cubes Cube Orange and Cube A landmark of the early Classicist former Verte by Jakob + MacFarlane, as well as hospital is the impressive dome. The the Musée des Confluences (86, Quai paneled pharmacy from 1775 possesses Perrache | www.museedesconfluences.fr) an extensive collection of druggist jars. by Coop Himmelb(l)au, which attempts Rue du 11 Novembre 1918 to convey the development, dreams, and fundamental questions of humani- yz La Maison du Bois ty in time and space. A relic from early Mâcon is this half-tim- bered house adorned with wonderful Vieux Lyon woodwork from the fifteenth and six- The beautiful old city (UNESCO World He- teenth centuries. The Brasserie of the ritage) on the right bank of the Saône same name on the ground floor has, un- is a district for entertainment and strol- fortunately, paid little attention to pre- ling around among the old half-timber serving history. 13, place aux Herbes houses, narrow, cobbled alleyways and beautiful courtyards from the Renais- Musée Lamartine sance. The most significant street is Rue Rarely read anywhere else in France any- Saint-Jean with the cathedral. more, the books of Alphonse de Lamar- tine (1790–1869) still have a place of honor in his birthplace. At Hôtel Senecé Mâcon (18th cent.) you’ll find an exhibition on the life of the Romantics and politicians With their pastel colors, high windows in a suitably historical setting. 41, rue Si- and colorful wooden stores, the stately gorgne houses along the Saône in Mâcon have forsaken the traditions of Burgundy to Musée des Ursulines align themselves with Provence. The municipal collection is colorfully th- A pretty panoramic overview of it all can rown together in the former Ursuline be enjoyed from a St-Laurent bridge convent (17th cent,): local history, eth- (18th cent.). A trade center used by even nology, paintings up to classical mo- the Gauls, the city (population ~34,500) dern, history of air travel and ceramics. has had the misfortune of being de- However, the most important items are stroyed so many times that all that re- the prehistoric finds by Solutré. 5, rue des mains of its long history are a few mo- Ursulines

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Vieux St-Vincent old, 4.3 kilometer city wall. The palace, Since the storming of the Bastille in 1789 churches, cardinal residences, and the during the French Revolution, only the manors of the bourgeoisie form an im- Romanesque antechamber and two oc- pressive backdrop to the world’s biggest tagonal towers of the old cathedral are theater festival. Each year, thousands of still standing. In the ruin’s Lapidarium, young people come to the city in droves, ancient sarcophagi and the remains of which then turns into one giant stage. the former Cordeliers Convent are on ex- The a Rhône island of La Barthelasse hibit. 240, rue de Strasbourg offers the most beautiful view of the city, the Papal Palace, and the most famous Chalon-sur- bridge of Avignon. s aône places of interest L ambert Collection The city (population ~47,000) is located The refurbished and remodeled north of Tournous and owes its rise to Palais Hôtel de Caumont from becoming a popular industrial base to the eighteenth century is home to the construction of the Canal du Centre fascinating temporary exhibitions and in the late eighteenth century. contemporary art from the private Once you have made it past the suburbs collection of the merchant Yvon Lambert. and industrial areas, you behold the sur- 5, Rue Violette | www.collectionlambert. prisingly beautiful old city with its ca- com thedral, timber-framed houses, and Re- naissance buildings. The picturesque St. Epicurium Laurent island on the Saône river is home Montfavet, a suburb to the southeast, to numerous restaurants. A local charac- has the first European museum ter of note is Nicéphore Niepce: the in- focusing exclusively on fruit and ventor of photography, who was born vegetables. Gourmet chef Christian in 1765 in Chalon. The Musée Nicépho- Etienne is the patron of this institution. re Niepce (28, quai des Méssageries | Its scientific approach, interactive www.museeniepce.com) on the bank of presentations, conservatories, and the Saône is dedicated to him and his in- gardens are a source of all there is to ventions. know about fruit and vegetables. There are also cooking classes and workshops for young and old. Rue Pierre Bayle | Avignon www.epicurium.fr

The period during the fourteenth centu- yz Musée Angladon ry in which popes reigned in Avignon is The foundation established by the artist but a brief period in the history of Chris- couple Angladon-Dubrujeaud presents tianity. masterpieces from the nineteenth and Even today, the city (population twentieth centuries. Among them are ~90,000) on the banks of the Rhône is works by Cézanne, Picasso, Dega, and still dominated by the colossal Palais des Modigliani. 5, Rue Laboureur | www. Papes (Papal Palace) and the 700 year angladon.com

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MUSÉE CALVET PLACE DE L’HORLOGE The beautiful grand residence is The lively square is only a short distance home to a comprehensive collection from the Papal Palace. Here, at Avignon’s of artworks from prehistoric times, main meeting point, you can visit dozens Asia, and Egypt, as well as drawings, of cafés and restaurants, view the city sculptures, and paintings from artists hall, the clock tower and, of course, the such as Joseph Vernet (1714 to 1789), opera from which a Molière statue gazes who immortalized his birthplace in upon the hustle and bustle. many of his works. 65, Rue Joseph Vernet | www.musee-calvet-avignon. PONT SAINT BÉNÉZET com Only a part of the famous bridge of Avi- gnon has survived the test of time: only MUSÉE DU PETIT PALAIS four arches of the construction that once North of the vast courtyard of the Papal spanned the Rhône are still standing after Palace stands the Petit Palais: a former the bridge was abandoned in the seven- cardinal’s residence. Today, it is an art museum with exhibits of Gothic and Romanesque sculptures, paintings by Italian masters from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. There are also examples of the Avignon School from the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Place du Palais

PALAIS DES PAPES (PAPAL PALAST) h In the fourteenth century, it took Popes Benedict XII (Palais Vieux) and Clemens VI (Palais Neuf) nearly 30 years to have the massive citadel with its two palaces and 50 meter high walls built. Except for a few frescoes, fireplaces, ceilings, and mosaics, not much was left of the interi- or after the French Revolution. However, a tour through the chambers is enough Pont d’Avignon to impress the grandeur of the building. During summer, the palace is a venue for teenth century. While the bridge was ne- art exhibitions, and the Cour d’Honneur ver wide enough to dance on, the island is transformed into a stage for theater of Barthelasse on right bank of the Rhône plays. The cathedral Notre Dame-des- has ample room for celebrations. On this Doms is also part of the complex, fea- bridge, Mireille Mathieu inaugurated the turing its plain Romanesque dome and modern Musée de la Chanson, in which vi- a statue of Mary from 1859. Behind the sitors can create their own video clips. church lies the a Rocher des Doms park with its terraces and great views of the SHOPPING Rhône Valley and Mont Ventoux. www. palais-des-papes.com Avignon is a true metropolis with stores

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between Rue de la Républic and Rue Jo- As a result, the traditional bullfights seph Vernet selling fashion from almost in the arena (www.feriaarles.com) are all major brands as much a part of the everyday culture as the international photography fes- markets tival (www.rencontres-arles.com) that The farmers’ market takes place from attracts the best photographers in the Tuesday to Sunday in the Halles (Place world each summer. They will meet and Pie). A flower market is held on Sa- greet in exceptional exhibition venues turdays. A flea market is organized on such as the closed former railroad work- Sundays on Place des Carmes. A groce- shops, the old chapels, or even the clois- ry market along the city ramparts (Rem- ter of the Church of Saint Trophime. part Saint-Michel) opens its gates Satur- days and Sundays. places of interest Les Arènes (Amphitheater) Arles One of the largest amphitheaters from the Roman era (first century) was expan- Arles was the seat of Constantine the ded into a fortified city in the Middle Ages Great in the fourteenth century. Fre- and rediscovered in the nineteenth centu- derick I (also known as Frederick Bar- ry. Today, the arena is a popular venue for barossa) visited the former capital of bloody bullfights but also hosts concerts the Kingdom of Burgundy in the twelfth and folklore festivals. The older and smal- century. ler Théâtre Antique is only a short distance Lastly, the Dutchman Vincent van Gogh away. Two marble columns remain from picked the city as a motif for his pain- the ancient stage. Rond-point des Arènes tings. Besides Marseille, Arles (population ~55,000) is one of the oldest cities Espace van Gogh in France and exhibits a calm resolve The Dutch painter created more than consistent with its past and present. 300 pieces of art in Arles between Febru- Olive oil: Story of an Elixir

Olive oil has a high percentage of un- awarded the coveted certification of ori- saturated fatty acids. It is considered gin for olive oil from southern France: one of the secret ingredients of healthy Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP). eating. The gnarled trees can grow Since then, Aix-en-Provence and Alpil- up to 1,000 years old and even survi- les have also been awarded an AOP cer- ved the heavy frosts of 1956 and 1985. tificate: Les-Baux-de-Provence. Olive Today, the pride of Provence is subsi- oil made from cultivars such as grossa- dized by the EU, which makes cultivati- ne, salonenque, or aglandau is not only on of younger trees possible. In 1994, sought after by gourmets and celebri- the tanche – the black olive from the ty chefs as a healthy superfood and has area around Nyons – was the first to be consequently become rather expensive.

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ary 1888 and May 1889. However, none hall is home to two treasures: the clois- of his paintings remained in the city. In ter is one of the most elegant buildings exchange, the garden of a former hos- in Provence, and the church gate from the pital (which today is a media center with twelfth century, which is reminiscent of a cafés and boutiques) was rebuilt accor- triumphal arch, is rivaled only by a simi- ding to his drawings. Free access | Place lar construction in Saint-Gilles (a town 15 Félix Rey kilometers west of Arles). Its sculptures depict the Doomsday court. Place de la Répu- yz Vincent van Gogh blique Foundation The lost son returns to the city in which baths of constantine he created most of his masterpieces. A Only a small part of the Roman bath building from the fifteenth century was built under Emperor Constantine in the remodeled into a modern culture center fourth century has been excavated, but that regularly exhibits Vincent van Gogh’s it is still the largest facility of its kind in paintings along with contemporary art. Provence. Access via Rue Maïsto opposi- 35ter, Rue du Docteur Fanton | www. te Musée Réattu fondation-vincentvangogh-arles.org shopping yz Musée Départemental Arles Antique The market on Saturday attracts approxi- The bold, triangular building on the mately 600 merchants to Blvd. des Lices peninsula of Cirque Romain houses the and is one of the largest in the region. On antique treasures of the city and was Wednesdays, you can find a farmers’ mar- designed by Henri Ciriani. The museum ket on Blvd. Émile Combes. The exquisite itself presents models of the city and music label Harmonia Mundi (3, Rue du other exhibits, such as the funerary Président Wilson | www.harmoniamundi. monuments from Alychamps Cemetery com) sells its CDs in its own store. that will open your eyes to the past of the modern city. The temporary exhibits are also worth a visit. Av. 1ère Division ardèche France Libre | www.arles-antique.cg13.fr The river that has its source in the Mas- Musée Réattu sif Central gives the Départment its name The diligently renovated former Maltese and look. The rushing waters deeply Palace on the bank of the Rhône is eroded the karst bedrock. The “Devil’s home to almost 60 drawings by Pablo Bridge” Pont du Diable near Thueyts in Picasso as well as sculptures and the upper section of the river is a sight to paintings by other artists, such as Ossip behold. The middle course between Au- Zadkine, César Baldaccini, and Germaine benas and Ruoms leads through a wide Richier. 10, Rue du Grand Prieuré | www. valley that is also perfect for hiking. The museereattu.arles.fr famous gorge Gorges de l’Ardèche further down the river between Vallon-Pont-d’Arc Saint-Trophime h (with its incredible natural bridge) and The cathedral from the eleventh to Saint-Martin d’Ardèche is a paradise for twelfth century opposite the Baroque city kayakers and canoeists.

document4010975505992444777.indd 83 08.11.2017 16:16:05 GREAT BRITAIN

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Seine WELCOME TO Paris NORTHERN FRANCE!

FRANCE Bad weather and widespread industrialization are just two prejudices northern France has to combat. Do not let this dissuade you, as the regions Hauts-de-France and Haute-Normandie are definitely worth a visit. Northern France is also known for its hospitality, breathtaking cliffs, impressive architecture, grand cathedrals, charming Glockenspiele, merry festivities, huge flea markets, and ample tasty food and drink. The northernmost region of France reaches from the English Channel (La Manche) to the Ardennes. The expansive Pi- cardie has beautiful forests to explore. The seaside cliffs of Haute-Normandie with their spectacular chalk rocks and sophisticated bathing resorts are not just favori- tes among Paris residents. West of the river, you can hear the call of Ardèche, Cé- vennes, and the coastal region of Languedoc-Roussillon, which extends all the way to the Spanish border.

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Sky scrapers and Super Metropolis

The city of Paris as such has only 2.2 mil- 14 urban planning agencies are busy de- lion citizens, but more than 10 million signing the Paris of the future – including live in the suburbs. The 30 billion euro 70,000 additional apartments. Presti- project “Grand Paris” aims to merge gious projects realized by international both and turn the capital of France into a celebrities are to brighten up the sea of model metropolis of the twenty-first cen- houses: The 180 meter high pyramid of tury. By 2030, 72 new stations are plan- Tour Traingle by Herzog and de Meuron ned for the fully automated Grand Pa- is a modern interpretation of the Eiffel ris Express loop line. The first of the new Tower in the fifteenth Arrondissement. routes are scheduled to be operatio- In the thirteenth Arrondissement, Jean nal in 2017. The development of public Nouvel erected the two towers (115 and transport, e-mobility, and bicycle traffic 180 meters respectively) of the ZAC Rive is part of the radical ecological changes Gauche, and the 170 meter high tower of necessary to save a city that is gasping the palace of justice in the district Quar- for fresh air with ever greater regularity: tier des Batignolles of the seventeenth bans on driving due to high levels of par- Arrondissement reaches into the sky. ticulate matter are common occurrences.

polis has it all. There is always something Paris happening in Paris. International celebrities come for a visit, economic conferen- The capital of France (population ~2.2 ces are a daily occurrence, major sports million in the city) is one of the most vi- events and art exhibitions happen every sited places in the whole world. week. And as a fashion capital, Paris at- The reasons for this are economical, ad- tracts fashionistas from all over the world ministrational, and touristic. Many peo- twice a year with Prêt-à-porter and Hau- ple consider Paris to be the most beau- te Couture shows. However, the never en- tiful city in the world. All traffic arteries ding flood of people also has its disad- run together in the agglomeration of Pa- vantages: the city’s streets are clogged, ris (population 12.3 million). The city has which causes a high degree of air polluti- Europe’s second largest airport (Charles- on. The Quartier Oberkampf is one of the de-Gaulle). International organizations most densely populated districts in all of such as Unesco and OECD are based the- Europe. The city of Berlin is eight times re. Paris also has more than 160 muse- the size of the city of Paris, but maybe ums. This accumulation of masterpieces it’s this cramped environment that gives makes the city a paradise for art enthusi- the place such a romantic air. asts from all over the world. Thanks to its multilingual, multicultural, and multi-re- places of interest ligious inhabitants, Paris is teeming with life and full of surprises. Monuments, ar- Centre Pompidou h a chitectural masterpieces, cultural sites, The building was constructed from steel restaurants, bars, and stores: the metro- frames in 1977. Its elevators and escala-

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tors move along the glass front, and the tille Day and the final leg of the Tour de center is considered a unique architec- France, all of Paris gets together on the tural monument of postmodern indust- Champs-Élysées. And in the weeks befo- rial chic. It is also one of the most fre- re Christmas, the boulevard glitters be- quented culture centers in the world and neath all the lights. has the largest collection of art from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. An EIFFEL TOWER (TOUR EIFFEL) h a extensive library includes important mu- La Dame de fer, the Iron Lady as the sic documentation as well as a cinema, a French call the impressive tower, is a café, bookstores, and conference rooms. must on everyone’s first visit to Paris. Place Georges-Pompidou | www.centre- The iconic landmark of the city was the pompidou.fr highest tower (324 meter) in the world for 40 years. It was built by Gustave Eif- CHAMPS ÉLYSÉES fel for the world exhibition in 1889. You The shopping and event mile of Paris is 2 can climb to the second platform on kilometers long and has five Metro stops foot, but after those 704 steps, you have between Place de la Concorde and the to take the elevator the rest of the way Arc de Triomphe. Check out the designer to the top. Once there, with the wind in stores, such as Louis Vuitton, Guerlain, your hair, you have an amazing bird’s- Cartier, Yves Rocher, etc. At night, the ci- eye view of Paris. Particularly in the eve- nemas and theaters call – Le Lido de Pa- ning, the lights of the city below are par- ris among them. For the parade on Bas- ticularly enchanting. You can celebrate

Tour Eiffel

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this memorable moment with a drink Montmartre at the Bar à Champagne. On every full The district on the highest hill in Paris hour at night, the Eiffel Tower lights up. has retained its nostalgic village charm, The best view of this lighting show can which is the main reason for its attrac- be had from the Palais du Trocadéro and tiveness to many tourists. If you are try- Palais de Chaillot opposite the tower. If ing to follow in the footsteps of famous you want to avoid waiting in line for painters such as Pablo Picasso, Paul hours, we recommend purchasing a ti- Gauguin, Henri Rousseau, Maurice Ut- cket (with a specified visiting time!) on- rillo, and Amedeo Modigliani, this is the line. But be warned: if you are late, you place to visit. Even today, many street ar- will not be allowed up. Stair tickets are tists can be found on Place du Tertre. The only available over the counter. www. history of the quarter and Paris’ Bohe- tour-eiffel.fr mian society and party scene of the nineteenth century are displayed in the Louvre h Musée de Montmartre (12–14, Rue Cor- You cannot see everything in the Louvre in tot | www.museedemontmartre.fr) right one day. The biggest museum in the world around the corner. But whatever you do, is divided into eight sections. Approximate- do not miss out on the ascent to a Sac- ly 35,000 works of art are displayed over ré-Cœur! Not only is the snowy white, 60,000 m2. Due to the vastness of the task, Roman-Byzantine basilica worth a visit, most first-time visitors focus on the Italian the view of the city from here is the most Renaissance, including Leonardo da Vinci’s beautiful to be had. “Mona Lisa” in the Salle des États and the masterpieces of French painting in the Sul- Musée du Quai Branly h ly wing. www.louvre.fr This museum is home to art from Afri- ca, America, Oceania, and Asia. The epic Marais h building near the Eiffel Tower was desig- The former marsh was drained in the ned by the architect Jean Nouvel and lies twelfth century and used as building site on the bank of the Seine. Its collection by the aristocracy. Even today, this district comprises 300,000 exhibits. 37, Quai is still considered Paris’ center of Jewish Branly | www.quaibranly.fr life, and you will see many orthodox Jews in the streets around here. The Marais is Sainte-Chapelle h a trendy district and its heart is the Place The palace chapel of the former roy- des Vosges square with its arcades. The al residence is an underestimated tre- Marais is home to many beautiful city asure. It was commissioned by Louis manors, such as the city museum Mu- IX of France (also known as Saint Lou- sée Carnavalet (16, Rue des Francs-Bour- is). Built in the thirteenth century, it is geois | www.carnavalet.paris.fr | closed considered a masterpiece of Gothic ar- for renovations until 2019) and the Hôtel chitecture. The lower part of the chapel de Béthune-Sully (62, Rue Saint-Antoine has a height of only 7 meters. The up- | www.sully.monuments-nationaux.fr). per part has the oldest windows in Pa- Tours of the interior are not possible, but ris, which bathe the interior in an other- the courtyard and garden act as a passa- worldly light. 4, Blvd. du Palais | www. ge to Place des Vosges and are therefore sainte-chapelle.monu open to the public. ments-nationaux.fr

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shopping les andelys Paris is a paradise for shopping. Stores of the major fashion labels can be found On a limestone rock high above the pic- on Rue de Rivoli and Rue de Rennes. If turesque curve of the Seine and 40 kilo- you prefer a more intimate shopping at- meters from the serene city (population mosphere, the best places to visit are ~8,300) sit the massive ruins of the fort- the Marais around Rue des Francs Bour- ress Château Gaillard. It was built within geois and the streets running parallel a year in 1196 by the Norman duke and to Rue Bonaparte in Saint-Germain-des- English king Richard Lionheart. The fort- Prés. The best shopping boulevard, how- ress was an important Norman basti- ever, is Blvd. Haussmann, where you can on against France. The ruins, but espe- find the department stores Galeries Lafa- cially the ramparts and the donjon with yette and Le Printemps. Recommenda- moat, are as perfect a motif for photos ble covered shopping passages are, for as is the amazing panoramic view of the example, Passage des Princes (5, Blvd. Seine Valley. des Italiens) and Passage des Panora- mas (11, Blvd. Montmartre). You should also pay a visit to the Belle Époque de- Rouen partment store Le Bon Marché (24, Rue de Sèvres) and the huge delicatessen sec- The significance of the city on the banks tion La Grande Épicerie (38, Rue de Sè- of the Seine is a controversial issue. vres)! The bouquiniste who set up shop h With a population of ~110,000 (or along the banks of the Seine to sell their 500,000 if you add the large number of antiques alongside the portrait painters suburbs), it is the capital of the region. are world-famous. Contemporary books, Located 90 kilometers from the coast, it CDs, DVDs, classics in literature, music, will come as a surprise to many that it and film, as well as electronics can be is also home to the fifth largest seaport bought in the many branches of Fnac in in France. Every year, more than 3,500 Paris. The largest in Paris are located on ships travel upriver and back to the sea Champs-Élysées and in Forum-Les-Hal- because Rouen is an important ent- les. Rue Malebranche, where Woody Al- repôt of Paris. The tides are very notice- len shot parts of “Midnight in Paris”, is a able in Rouen. Every four to six years in portal to the wonderful world of Michè- June (next time in 2019), the city is host le Cointe and her store Antiquités (11, Rue to the Armada (www.armada.org), a lar- Malebranche). If you have a weakness for ge festival with millions of visitors. Over museum shops, you can find art prints, eleven days, proud sailing ships from do- artistic photography, engravings, and zens of nations arrive at the harbor. The various souvenirs from all the national “city of 100 church spires” and 1,000 tim- museums at www.boutiquesdemusees. ber-framed houses looks back on 2,000 fr. Macarons from the confectionary La- years of eventful history. A sad highlight durée are considered the best in the city. was the burning of Joan of Arc on Place They are available in many different vari- du Vieux-Marché. The rich architectural eties in the four stores. The one at num- heritage of beautiful ecclesiastical buil- ber 75 Av. des Champs-Elysées also has an dings, grand castles, and stately manors adjacent café and bar. in different styles gave Rouen its second

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byname of “Museum City” (central web- two artistically designed clock hands that site of the museums in Rouen: www.rou- still work accurately to this day. You can en-musees.com). also view the mechanism inside the building. The moon calendar, which is also Harbour in Honfleur part of the installation, was an important tool to estimate whether an expected tall ship would be able to enter Rouen Har- bor, as the moon phases influence the tides and thus the water level beneath the keel. If you climb to the top of the fourteenth-century a beffroi (bell tower), you can enjoy a panoramic view of the historic center.

Musée des Beaux-Arts The museum exhibits a rich collection of paintings and sculptures, with works by Veronese, Rubens, Caravaggio, Ingres, Monet, Degas, and Modigliani. 26, Esp- lanade Marcel Duchamp

Musée Flaubert d’Histoire de la Médecine The birthplace of Gustave Flaubert is full of mementos of the famous writer and also houses an interesting exhibition on places of interest medical history. Flaubert’s father was a yz Aître Saint-Maclou doctor. 51, Rue de Lecat East of the Church of Saint-Maclou in Rue Martainville lies a courtyard hidden bet- Musée National de l’Éducation ween timber-framed houses. The insigni- In the interior of the beautiful timber- as of the gravediggers in the frieze hold framed house, you can learn a lot about the explanation: this was the place whe- the history of childhood and schools in re victims of the plague were buried in a France since the sixteenth century. 185, mass grave. When the weather is fine, Rue Eau-de-Robec the shady trees offer a perfect place to relax. Even the art students from the ne- Musée Le Secq des Tournelles arby academy don’t disturb the peaceful The former Church of Saint Laurent is quiet. 186, Rue Martainville an elegant setting for the largest artist blacksmith collection in the word (6,000 Gros-Horloge exhibits). 2, Rue Jacques-Villon The Gros-Horloge from the sixteenth century is built into a Renaissance archway Notre-Dame de l’Assomption and can be found in the lively Rue du This Gothic cathedral from the twelfth Gros-Horloge. On both sides of the clock to sixteenth century is not only the cen- displaying the days of the week are the terpiece of the old town but also one of

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the most beautiful church buildings in shopping France. It has a grand, flamboyant facade that is flanked by the Tour de Saint- The city center is a great place for shop- Romain on the left and the Tour de Be- ping. The pedestrian zone Rue du Gros- urre, which was built later (sixteenth Horloge has one store after the other. century) on the right. The building is Of course, you will also find the usual often called “butter tower” because it brands and chains here. East of the mar- was financed by a tax on dairy products ket hall at Place du Vieux-Marché are se- during the fasting period. The equally veral small boutiques and delis parallel impressive crossing tower that stands to the pedestrian zone. The famous Rou- 151 meters tall is the highest church to- en faience wares and handicraft can be wer in France. Between all the towers, found in the former library quarter north the cathedral has 56 bells. The chancel of the cathedral. In Rue Saint-Romain, houses several tombs, among them the near Place Barthélémy, and in Rue Mar- burial places of the first Norman duke tainville you can browse a great number Rollo (tenth century) and Richard Lion- of antique shops. heart.

Palais de Justice honfleur In the past, the parliament of Normandy met in the grand courthouse in Rue aux Picturesque in the truest sense of the Juifs. It is one of the few civil Gothic buil- word: Claude Monet, Eugène Boudin, dings in France that also has plenty of Re- and many others set up their easels naissance ornaments. here. And even today, artists are drawn to the Place du Vieux-Marché harbor city (population ~8,300) on the The old marketplace is surrounded by Seine estuary, as it has lost nothing of its Norman timber-framed houses on one charm. The only difference to the olden side and the modern Church Sainte-Jean- days are the weekends and holidays: you ne d’Arc, which looks like a Viking ship. now have to share the place with count- On this square, the national saint was less others, and particularly with visitors burned at the stake on May 30, 1431. A from Paris. The port basin Vieux Bassin memorial has been erected in her me- from 1681 has lost nothing of its authen- mory. tic nautical atmosphere. Several galleries, restaurants, and cafés have opened Saint-Ouen in the narrow, slate-clad houses. Along If you follow Rue Damiette, you will soon the quay, you behold a colorful mixture reach the abbey church (abbatiale) of a of fishing boats, yachts, and classic sai- Benedictine cloister founded during the ling boats. The timber-framed houses in reign of the Carolingians. The grand Go- the romantic quarter Sainte-Catherine thic building also has a crossing tower in around the wooden church of the same the Flamboyant style. The interior has name invite you to a relaxed stroll. Ano- beautiful glass windows and a giant or- ther recommended sight in Rue de la gan from the sixteenth century. The ruins Ville are the well-preserved salt storage of the cloister can be seen on the nort- houses from 1670, where once 10,000 hern side. tons of salt could be stored. The mineral

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was needed by both the local fishermen S ainte-Catherine from Newfoundland to conserve cod and The wooden church from the fif- by the city of Paris. teenth century in the old city has to parallel naves and one unconnected bell tower sheeted with shingles made of places of interest chestnut. It was originally meant to be Les Maisons Satie only a temporary construction, but today, A scenic homage to the compo- its simplicity is one of its assets. ser Erik Satie, who was born in Hon- fleur in 1866. The museum introduces shopping the works, life, and philosophy of the avant-garde musician who also influ- The boutique La Voilière (Rue des Lingots) enced Débussy, Stravinsky and more near the church tower sells textiles and modern musicians such as Brian Eno. accessories in the sailor style. It also has 67, Blvd. Charles V incredibly cute items for children. In addition to its great variety of (mainly) al- Mont Joli coholic beverages made from apples, The winding road to the west of the Gribouille (16, Rue de l’Homme de Bois) city leads to the chapel Notre-Dame- also offers other products from the regi- de-Grâce, which was built in the seven- on, such as homemade confitures. Seve- teenth century. The square before the a ral interesting art galleries can be found pilgrims’ chapel offers a fantastic pano- around the port basin. ramic view of Honfleur, the Seine estuary, and the Pont de Normandie. Le Havre Eugene Boudin Museum Has a considerable collection of pre-im- On the northern side of the 9 kilometer pressionistic and contemporary pain- wide Seine estuary lies Le Havre. The h tings, as well as an exhibition of traditi- major port and industrial city (populati- onal Norman costumes. Place Erik Satie on ~193,000) owes its founding in 1522 and its development to the silting of the Pont de Normandie h a old Harfleur harbor upriver. Construction of this breathtaking, 2 ki- Today, Le Havre is one of the most im- lometer long bridge across the Seine portant export and container harbors in estuary to the east of Honfleur was fi- France and a significant hub of sea traf- nished in 1995. From the middle of the fic. It takes the ferry to England approxi- bridge, you have an incredible view of mately five hours to reach Portsmouth the estuary. If you want to enjoy this from here. The catamaran is even fas- panorama fully, you should leave your ter (only three hours fifteen minutes). car near the Honfleur exit on the free Cruise ships regularly dock at the erst- parking lot on the south bank before while transatlantic terminal. The city was following the signs to the right of Lec- destroyed almost completely in 1945 but lerc supermarket. Just choose the cor- then rebuilt under the direction of ar- rect side first: to the north lies the Sei- chitect and “concrete poet” Auguste Per- ne estuary, to the south you can behold ret. The mentor of Le Corbusier comple- the hinterland. ted this difficult task with flying colors:

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the 150 hectare city center feels open and Hôtel de Ville weightless, just like the sea. The ensemb- Located only a short distance from Es- le of 12,000 apartments, shops, govern- pace Oscar Niemeyer, the large Place de ment buildings, culture and religion has l’Hôtel de Ville lies at the foot of the city been declared a Unesco World Herita- hall with its 72 meter high a panora- ge Site. A new bridge has made the old ma tower. While the mayor’s seat is remi- dry docks accessible from the city center. niscent of socialist architecture, the park Since then, the Quartier de l’Eure has be- honors the Résistance with a memorial. come a quarter full of life, with shopping passages, cafés, cinemas, hotels, and of- Maison de l’Armateur fice buildings. It is hard to imagine today, The chic ship owner’s villa from the eigh- but Le Havre is also the birthplace of Im- teenth century can be found at the heart pressionism. The spot near the harbor of the city. It has been tastefully remo- where the Semaphor control tower rises deled and is now a town history muse- high into the sky is where Claude Monet um. 3, Quai de l’Île painted his “Soleil levant”. Musée d’Art Moderne André Malraux places of interest The art museum is housed in a bright Espace Oscar Niemeyer glass, steel and concrete building and You can make out the Volcan even from exhibits some impressive collections. afar. It was built in 1982 and dominates You will find Impressionistic works the square named after the Brazilian ar- (approximately 300 works by Boudin, chitect. At the moment, the area is being six Monets, and seven Pissarros), as remodeled. Once the work is done, this well as pieces in the Fauvism or Cubist place will have a large media center. The style. During the winter months, you Le Volcan (www.levolcan.com) theater can watch the sun set over the ocean will also move back to this address. On and yz ships setting out to the opposite side, you can find the Bas- sea from the museum’s café. 2, Blvd. sin du Commerce port basin and the in- Clémenceau | www.muma-lehavre.fr ternational trade center. Notre-Dame Harbour The cathedral from the sixteenth century The sea port of Le Havre is huge: it has is one of the few buildings still standing 1,100 docks and 30 kilometers of quaysi- from the early days after the founding of de. It covers a 5 kilometer wide and 27 the city. It was damaged several times kilometer long area from the west to the and different architectural styles were in- east. The 75 regular lines sail to 500 sea troduced with rebuilding works. Part of it ports all over the world. Two fifths of is clearly Gothic, but the facade already French petroleum imports are handled shows a strong Renaissance influence. The in Le Havre. With more than 16,000 church was remodeled after World War II. jobs, the harbor is also one of the biggest employers in the region. The ter- Sainte-Adresse minal quays of the container port Port The once flourishing port city is a suburb 2000 can admit the world’s largest con- of Le Havre along the coastal highway to tainer ships. Étrat. Today, it is a seaside resort with an

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amazing view from the Neo-Gothic a shopping chapel Notre-Dame-des-Flots that is well worth a visit. Upstream are the rocky for- Like with many European port cities, Le mations of Cap de la Hève and the old Havre’s formerly rather unattractive wa- Fort de Sainte-Adresse. terfront has been given a new purpose. This has led to an interesting mixture Saint-Joseph of the time-honored architecture of the When Auguste Perret was commissioned to docks and the modern department store rebuild the City Le Havre, he also replaced Docks Vauban (70, Quai Frissard). 50 re- the parish church that had been destroyed tail shops selling labels of greater and during the war with a new one. Of course it lesser known brands, restaurants, and a is made from concrete – 50,000 tons of it. cinema are open to customers even on The 109 meter high, octagonal tower rises Sundays and bank holidays. Photo-Tre- up like a beacon in homage to the mariti- het F. Marine (65, Rue de Paris) is a litt- me importance of the city. The 6,500 glass le more particular: the store has a large windows fashioned by Marguerite Huré ba- selection of more than 75,000 photos of the the interior in a different light depen- ships from all countries and eras, as well ding on the position of the sun. as images of the city from the past and Cheese from Normandy

Camembert – During his flight to es- Livarot – The origin of this farmer cape the revolutionaries, a priest cheese can be traced back to the Late from Brie thanked the farmer Ma- Middle Ages. It was named after the rie Harel from the village of Camem- village of Livarot, but its nickname bert for her help and gave her the re- “Colonel” comes from the five reed cipe for this cheese. Produced with ribbons tied around its orange-red, the milk from the local Norman milk washed rind (a French colonel wears cows, the cheese and its unmistaka- five stripes on his shoulders and slee- ble chipboard packaging quickly be- ves). came famous. Traditionally, you have dry cider with the cheese (instead of Pont-l’Évêque – This cheese was also red wine), remove the cheese rind, named after its place of production, and only eat the dough with a green and it has been around for about 700 salad. years. Like the other three mentioned above, this is another soft cheese Neufchâtel – This cheese is possib- made from cow’s milk and bears the ly the oldest in France and was men- A.O.C. status (trademarked origin). tioned in writings as early as 1050. It An organic pigment from Australia gi- got its name from the village of Neuf- ves its rind the orange color. The fla- châtel-en-Bray, where it is produced. vor is slightly salty with a hint of fruit The typical form is heart-shaped. or hazelnut.

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present. A veritable treasure trove! Manneporte natural archway out at sea. To the east, a yz Falai- se d’Amont offers a beautiful panoramic ÉTRETAT view of the town and the photogenic rocky formations vis-à-vis. The peak rising What was once a quiet fishing town 30 high into the sky brings to mind Charles kilometers north of Le Havre has deve- Nungesser and François Coli. The bra- loped into a lively seaside resort (popu- ve pilots would have become pioneers lation ~1,600) that attracts many visi- of aviation history before even Charles tors. The grandiose backdrop of white Lindbergh when they attempted to cross limestone lining the pebbled beach on the Atlantic to New York. Unfortunately, both sides is a particularly a sight to be- they were last seen in the skies above hold. To protect your mental well-being Étrat ... 4 kilometers to the north east as well as the environment, you should lies a Cap de Belval, where you can refrain from trying to find a place to admire another rock needle – the Ai- park your car in one of the narrow al- guille Belval. leys. Instead, you can drive straight to Leaving the town in the direction of Le the large parking lot near Rue Guy de Havre, you will pass Le Valaine, where Maupassant (D39) that is only appro- Agnès and Bernard Dherbécourt take ximately 400 meters from the city cen- care of around 60 goats on the grounds ter. The city has a beautifully renovated of their elegant home Manoir de Cateuil wooden market hall (in the past, the (Route du Havre | www.levalaine.com). goods were sold downstairs and the They make their own delicious cheese, money was counted upstairs). ice cream, and chocolate from the milk, To the west lies cape a Falaise d’Aval. and you are welcome to watch the pro- From here, you have a great view of the cess. Their products are sold in the farm Aiguille rock needle and the cliffs of the shop.

Clifs in Étretat

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document5732308927212673311.indd 96 08.11.2017 16:16:12 Your AMADEUS Cruiser Club

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