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See the lavishly illustrated Hideaway Report Online for additional reviews, stories, { slide shows and videos } ANDREW HARPER’S ®

june 2011 | OUR 33RD YEAR www.AndrewHarper.com candid reviews by a writer who travels incognito and always pays his own way

crash that had been hanging over the city on a previous : Two Classic visit. London seemed to have recovered its ebullience, and its citizens were counting down the days to the start Transformed of the Olympics on July 27, 2012. (Tickets went on sale london’s grand hotels March 15, and when the application process closed six weeks later, 1.8 million people had signed up for the 650 once appeared to be events and the Games were 50 percent oversubscribed.) embodiments of serene After our day flight from New York, it was already continuity. Many had dark when we arrived in Savoy Court, just off the received their first guests in Strand. The lights of London’s Theatreland were still the 19th century and viewed burning brightly, however, and their neon was reflected in the ’s exquisite new Lalique fountain. We were the latest fashions with a greeted in the lobby by an exceptionally friendly young degree of disdain. American visitors tended to receptionist, who offered to escort us to our room where admire the glossy patina bestowed by successive registration formalities could be completed. As The Savoy generations, but were less impressed by the was closed for nearly three years, virtually all the staff Victorian plumbing. It all seemed immutable. are recent hires, which had caused us to wonder whether the service would be sufficiently polished. But this first Then, unexpectedly, everything began to change. pleasant encounter turned out to be representative of Over the past 10 years, virtually every notable hotel in many over the ensuing days. London has had a comprehensive makeover, a process In many ways, The Savoy has long been the that culminated with the reopening of The Savoy in most distinctive of London’s grand hotels, with an October of last year after a $350 million reconstruction. extraordinarily rich and glamorous history. Once part of a On our recent trip, we arrived to find no obvious venerable group that included Claridge’s, trace of the gloom engendered by the 2008 financial and , it was sold in 2005 to Saudi Prince

H In this issue H … AND Online

1 Grand Designs 6 Fine Mexican Resorts » London Music Venues The Savoy Capella Pedregal Cabo San Lucas » The Connaught Rosewood San Miguel de Allende Belize Family Travel » 5 New & Noteworthy 8 Belize Jungle Lodge Exploring Mayan Cities The Olympics are a year away, and Thirty years after it opened, magical Find the Hideaway Report Online London’s hotel scene is buzzing Chaa Creek just gets better and better at www.AndrewHarper.com

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected] www.AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning the Hideaway Report, please email [email protected] Alwaleed, who appointed Fairmont Hotels & Resorts to Craddock, a U.S. citizen who had fled his native land manage the property. The name itself derives from Count during Prohibition, presided over the hotel’s celebrated Peter of Savoy, whose relative King Henry III gave him American Bar. Craddock popularized the dry martini and land beside the Thames in 1246, on which he built Savoy invented several classic , including the notorious Palace. Fast-forward six centuries to 1880, when the Corpse Reviver #2, a lethal blend of gin, Cointreau, site was purchased by impresario Richard D’Oyly Carte Lillet, pastis and lemon juice. with the profits from his operettas. The Savoy’s 268 rooms and suites reflect two Having constructed the , Carte decided contrasting threads of its history. Those facing the Strand to open an adjoining hotel, which he financed with the have an décor, while those overlooking the river proceeds of an extremely lucrative production of “The are Edwardian in style. All have been comprehensively Mikado.” In 1889, The Savoy became the first London modernized and redesigned under the supervision of hotel to boast electric lighting, electric elevators, steam French interior design guru Pierre-Yves Rochon. The heat and constant running hot water. Not content with Savoy is unique among London’s established grand hotels these innovations, Carte hired César Ritz as the manager in affording views of the Thames, so we had opted for and put in charge of the kitchens. a River Deluxe King room. The view from The Savoy From the beginning, The Savoy enjoyed a close has long been considered one of London’s finest, and relationship with the interlocking worlds of music and has been painted by artists of the rank of Whistler and theater, and for the past 120 years, its character has Monet. (Indeed, one of the hotel’s nine lavish Personality always been more raffish and debonair than moneyed Suites is named for Monet, a distinction shared with and aristocratic. It was not until the 1920s, however, !) Upriver, to our right, the face of Big that the hotel saw the full flowering of its personality. Ben glowed above the Houses of Parliament. In the The Jazz Age and its accompanying style, art deco, foreground, Cleopatra’s Needle, an Egyptian obelisk transformed the Victorian hotel. A hydraulic stage dating from the 15th century B.C., was silhouetted against was installed, and leading jazz musicians arrived from the London Eye, a 443-foot-tall Ferris wheel erected to New York via transatlantic liner. mark the beginning of the third millennium. And to our gave the British premier of “” at the left, Waterloo Bridge spanned the Thames to the floodlit hotel in 1925. And in 1930, the internationally famous National Theatre on the South Bank. “Savoy Book” was published. Its author, Henry Over the next three days, we found the room to be flawlessly comfortable, and all of its amenities functioned without a hitch. Effective soundproofing 1 The Savoy 2 The Connaught created a tranquil atmosphere that was in delightful 3 Claridge’s counterpoint to the ceaseless flow of black taxis and 4 Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park 9 ST. PANCRAS STATION red double-deckers along The Embankment, as well as 5 Corinthia Hotel (EUROSTAR) the procession of ferries, pleasure craft and police boats 6 45 Park LaneREGENT’S PARK 7 Four Seasons Park Lane scudding across the choppy surface of the Thames. A 8 London Kempinski modern, spacious, well-lit bath provided a walk-in shower 9 St. Pancras Renaissance BRITISH London Hotel MUSEUM with a huge rainfall showerhead, a deep Edwardian claw- 10 The Athenaeum Apartments foot tub and lavish quantities of towels. And thanks to the comprehensive reconstruction, the plumbing and Re ROYAL g OPERA ent St HOUSE water pressure were of a standard that you would expect 3 re in a new hotel. Throughout our stay, room service was Park Lane et 2 nd 1 Wa both prompt and polite. ra Brid HYDE St terloo PARK ge The Savoy has two principal public areas. The s 6 Piccadilly 5 e l main lobby is a scene of opulent Edwardian splendor, 10 m 7 8 a Knightsb GREEN ridge The Mal h LONDON PARK an expansive space with a checkerboard marble floor, ST. JAMES’S T EYE 4 PARK Westminster gilded columns, polished wood and damask upholstery. BUCKINGHAM PALACE Brid ge HARRODS There, guests read quietly beside a fire or linger beneath HOUSES OF r

PARLIAMENT e v a magnificent Beaux-Arts frieze entitled “An Idyll of a i R Golden Age.” But the heart of the hotel is still the Thames 0 1 km London’s West End 0 1 mi Foyer, where a dramatic stained-glass cupola admits a

2 Hideaway Report | June 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685 flood of natural light even on the grayest of London days. served from a silver trolley, which was enjoyable but On the evening of our arrival, we enjoyed a delicious late poorly carved and untidily presented. Overall, the biggest supper of Cornish crab and Scottish smoked salmon, change in the Grill is its atmosphere, which at times is accompanied by a glass of crisp Petit Chablis. Although boisterous rather than merely animated. Clearly, it is the it is open for such light meals throughout the day, the fashionable place to eat in London right now, and at the Thames Foyer is most animated at teatime, and such is risk of sounding insufferably snobbish, on the day we the demand for tables that a waiting list for non-residents ate there some of the diners didn’t quite measure up to is said to extend for several weeks. the grandeur of the place and its history. To one side of the Thames Foyer, the opulent new In general, the new incarnation of The Savoy is Beaufort Bar offers an impressive selection of Louis extremely impressive, but our favorable assessment Roederer champagnes by the glass. And its voluptuous comes with one or two important caveats. If you prefer black-and-gold interior is the scene of a nightly cabaret, hotels that are discreet and understated, The Savoy is the continuation of The Savoy’s long musical tradition. emphatically not for you. Ever since it opened, this has been an establishment that has celebrated exuberance, display and the English love of all things theatrical. My greatest fear, however, is that The Savoy is in imminent danger of becoming a tourist attraction. Many other grand hotels are obliged to confront this hazard — The Peninsula in Hong Kong and the Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok immediately spring to mind — and The Savoy’s management will have to be increasingly vigilant. Successful hotels must be run primarily for the benefit of their residents, not those paying $50 for afternoon tea. 93 Savoy Deluxe King, $870; River Deluxe King, $1,295; Riverview Junior Suite King, $1,620. Strand. Tel. (44) 20- 7836-4343. www.fairmont.com/savoy

The Savoy Court, and, right, the Savoy Theatre In the days of the ancien régime, the most exclusive At the Foyer’s farthest extent, the River Restaurant, of London hotels was The Connaught, a clublike once the domain of Escoffier, now sports a striking art establishment ideally located in the so-called deco design, augmented by a leopard-print carpet, ivory Village. For a certain type of committed American leather chairs and flamboyant displays of orchids and Anglophile, the place was an antechamber to heaven. calla lilies. There, chef Ryan Murphy offers a menu of True, many of the rooms were on the small side and the Modern . baths old-fashioned, but the country house atmosphere, However, the most celebrated of the hotel’s dining punctilious staff and two superb restaurants provided venues is the Savoy Grill, which in its previous incarnation more than adequate compensation. The Grill Room, in was one of London’s preeminent power lunch venues. particular, had a kind of aura. Its menu was defiantly This was partly due to its location, close to The City traditional — oyster pie, roast grouse, bread-and-butter financial district and Fleet Street (where virtually all pudding — but it was under the supervision of French of the capital’s newspapers were once printed), as well chef Michel Bourdin and had boasted a Michelin star as to Covent Garden and the West End. for as long as anyone could remember. We chose to eat in the Grill one Saturday lunchtime. In 2005, The Connaught was sold and the new The appearance of the room is substantially the same, owners decided to invest more than $110 million in with lustrous wood paneling, art deco lighting, starched a comprehensive transformation. The work has been white tablecloths and black leather chairs. Decoration is undertaken in phases but it is now virtually complete. confined to large black-and-white photographs of celebrity The most significant part of the redesign has been the diners from the 1950s, including and addition of 31 new rooms and suites in an extension to . The menu is now under the supervision the original hotel, bringing the total to 121. of Stuart Gillies, an associate of , and The taxi that brought us from The Savoy to The it, too, has a nostalgic feel. We opted for stuffed lamb Connaught drove down Mount Street, an elegant

To view slide shows and videos, visit Hideaway Report Online at www.AndrewHarper.com June 2011 | Hideaway Report 3 thoroughfare that clearly illustrates the changing face of space. Finding any land on which to build in the heart London. The old-established galleries and shops — Purdey, of Mayfair was little short of miraculous. the leading manufacturer of classic English shotguns, is It is the hotel’s stated intention to reopen the Grill located at the corner of Mount Street and South Audley Room, but no definite date seems to have been set, and Street — have now been joined by high-fashion retailers perhaps it will require a significant economic upturn Marc Jacobs and Balenciaga, while outside Scott’s seafood to make the investment worthwhile. In the meanwhile, restaurant, a venerable establishment that has recently guests must content themselves with brasserie-style dining been transformed into one of London’s chief celebrity at Espelette, or haute cuisine at Hélène Darroze at the magnets, a scrum of paparazzi lay in wait for some Connaught, which has recently been awarded its second unfortunate victim. Michelin star. Chef Darroze is originally from Landes At The Connaught, much had changed, but much in southwestern France, and her menu features regional seemed reassuringly familiar. To the right of the lobby, and seasonal dishes. The Connaught offers several rooms the former drawing room is now the trendy Coburg Bar, for private dining, including the exquisitely restored but the most obvious addition is Espelette, a brand-new Georgian Room, which is the most beautiful venue for casual dining restaurant housed within a kind of glass a dinner party of up to 12 people that can be imagined. conservatory overlooking Mount Street. Rather than The raised floral garlands on the pale pistachio walls have taking the elevator to our room on the second floor, been lavishly re-silvered, and the effect by candlelight is we opted to walk up the hotel’s magnificent mahogany breathtaking. An obliging concierge showed me around, staircase, which has been spectacularly restored and now and I made a mental note to make a reservation for my gleams and glints with polish and newly applied gold leaf. next significant wedding anniversary. The reinvention of The Connaught was entrusted to For those who vividly remember The Connaught of the well-known English interior designer, Guy Oliver, who old, its new incarnation can take a bit of getting used to. has brought a sophisticated color palette as well as a full But the renovation has unquestionably been a labor of love, range of contemporary technology to the original rooms. and the hotel is now a remarkable blend of innovation Beds come with Italian linens and cashmere blankets, and tradition. 96 Superior King, $945; Deluxe King, $1,010; while thickly lined damask curtains ensure tranquility. Deluxe Junior Suite, $1,470. Carlos Place, Mayfair. Tel. (44) The biggest change is to be found in the baths, which 20-7499-7070. www.the-connaught.co.uk have been comprehensively modernized and are now faced in white Thassos marble. In common with those in many old hotels, the accommodations at The Connaught Royal Palace Visits tend to vary greatly in size and shape, so it is virtually impossible to generalize. Despite its modernization, the Despite the obvious security concerns, property still has rooms that are small and somewhat it is possible to visit several royal residences when their occupants are elsewhere. The most intimate and inconvenient. On one recent visit, we found that we arguably the most fascinating is Clarence House, home had been allocated a long, thin room with a similarly to the Prince of Wales and Princes William and Harry. elongated bath. It took us approximately 20 seconds to Small guided groups will be admitted from August 4 decide to upgrade to a second-floor suite. to September 4, 2011. Nearby Buckingham Palace is Rooms in the new wing are dissimilar to those in the open from July 23 to October 3, 2011, while the Queen old hotel, and the intention appears to have been to create is at Balmoral Castle in Scotland. The State Apartments an environment suitable for those traveling alone or on contain notable paintings, including those by Rembrandt business. The bedrooms have relatively low ceilings, but and Poussin. This year’s special exhibition features the the baths are extremely spacious and peerlessly appointed. royal collection of Fabergé eggs and jewelry. Visitors may However, for leisure travelers, the atmospheric original also stroll though part of the palace garden. Exclusive building is to be preferred. tours with expert guides are available. Visit www. Aside from the new accommodations, the principal royalcollection.org.uk for tickets and further details. addition to The Connaught is the Aman Spa, which offers Kensington Palace, former home of Diana, Princess of Wales, is currently undergoing extensive refurbishment, treatment rooms that come with private dressing areas. A and the Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection is temporarily small gymnasium is complemented by an indoor heated closed. When it reopens, it is expected to be augmented swimming pool. Although the spa is a pleasing addition by Kate Middleton’s Alexander McQueen wedding gown. to the hotel, its design has been constrained by a lack of

4 Hideaway Report | June 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685 Hotel and restaurant update The Latest News From the British Capital with the olympics a most glamorous hotel in the world,” though their vibrant little over a year away, the colors and dramatic floral prints are not calculated to London hotel scene is in a appeal to everyone! The most unusual London opening occurred in May, predictable ferment. Scarcely with the debut of the St. pancras renaissance a month goes by, it seems, london hotel in the train station of the same name. without a glitzy makeover The masterpiece of Victorian Gothic, designed by George or a loudly publicized debut. Gilbert Scott and completed in 1868, St. Pancras now contains the Eurostar terminal for high-speed trains to Until now, The Savoy has been the only grand hotel Paris, and will be the departure point for the Olympic with a river view. Since April, however, the new 294-room Javelin, a seven-minute shuttle to the Games of 2012. The Corinthia Hotel, located close to Trafalgar Square, has hotel is not without ambition, and features a restaurant been able to make the same boast. The Thames is visible by the Michelin two-star chef, . from many rooms, while the terrace affords a panorama On the city’s western outskirts, Syon Park is a that extends from Westminster Abbey to the skyscrapers magnificent 18th-century house owned by the Duke of of The City. The Corinthia claims to offer London’s largest Northumberland. Robert Adam began work on the interior suite and largest spa (spread over four floors). in 1762, while the grounds, which look across the river A new property on a more modest scale, the 45-room to Kew Gardens, are the work of Lancelot “Capability” 45 Park Lane, is scheduled to open in September. Part Brown. Now, the 137-room London Syon Park, a of Collection, it is intended to provide a Waldorf Astoria hotel, has opened on the 200-acre estate. boutique alternative to its illustrious parent. The interior As well as a lavish spa, the property features a restaurant design is by New York-based Thierry Despont, while under the supervision of chef Lee Streeton that employs Wolfgang Puck will open a modern American steakhouse, fruit, herbs and vegetables from the estate, as well as trout his first restaurant in Europe. from the lake and honey from the Syon Park beehives. Many of London’s established names have been For those traveling with children, The Athenaeum undergoing comprehensive refurbishment. The Four Apartments have long provided a convenient base in an Seasons Park Lane has been renovated at a cost of ideal location just off Piccadilly. The apartments have been $200 million under the supervision of Pierre-Yves Rochon. reduced in number from 32 to 18 and comprehensively The number of rooms has been reduced from 217 to 192, restyled. They now provide sleek, modern kitchens, as and guests now have access to a 10th-floor gym and spa well as brighter and more comfortable bedrooms with with nine treatment rooms, including the ultra-luxurious king-size beds and generous amounts of closet space. Sky Suite overlooking Hyde Park. Visitors who recall Pierre Koffmann’s wonderful The Stafford London by Kempinski, long a three-star La Tante Claire (which closed in 2004) may favorite of Harper members, is currently in the throes wish to make a pilgrimage to the basement of The of a multimillion-dollar renovation. This will result in Berkeley hotel, where the great man has opened a bistro, a redesigned lobby, lounge and restaurant, as well as 24 Koffmann’s, serving the simple delicious food from his refurbished guest rooms. When the work is complete, we native Gascony. Across the road in the newly refurbished will provide members with a full report. Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, three-star chef Heston At claridge’s, London’s most patrician five-star Blumenthal offers a very different gastronomic experience. hotel, the transformation is gradual and ongoing. (Its social His crusade is to restore the reputation of British cuisine, preeminence dates from 1860, when Queen Victoria paid and his menu at Dinner features scrupulously researched a visit to one of the guests, Empress Eugenie of France.) In dishes, some of which date to the 14th century. Critics 2007, the current Queen’s nephew, acclaimed furniture have long lauded Blumenthal’s original restaurant, The designer David Linley, restyled 11 signature suites, Fat Duck, located on the Thames 20 miles west of which are now widely regarded as the most desirable in London, and they have not stinted in their praise for his London. And in June last year, fashion legend Diane von latest venture. “The best new restaurant in the whole Furstenberg designed a series of rooms and suites for “the wide world” was the assessment of The Times newspaper.

To view slide shows and videos, visit Hideaway Report Online at www.AndrewHarper.com June 2011 | Hideaway Report 5 notable mexican resorts Cabo Chic and Colonial Style despite the routinely depressing news from Much of Capella Pedregal has been constructed on a Mexico, I recently decided to head down to two of broad ledge at the bottom of a cliff face, which forms a vast my favorite destinations, Cabo San Lucas and San natural balcony overlooking the Pacific. It is an undeniably spectacular setting, and the fact that the tunnel provides Miguel de Allende, to visit new hotels from the the only means of access creates an immediate sense of distinguished companies Capella and Rosewood. privilege and seclusion. The boisterous bars of Cabo San Lucas might as well not exist. Only the resort’s tennis Many Harper members need little introduction courts are on the town side of the tunnel, and most guests to Cabo San Lucas. In the 2010 Reader Survey, Las seem to stay within their private enclave, venturing out Ventanas was ranked No. 2 and Esperanza No. chiefly to go jogging or to try one of the local restaurants. 4 among International Hideaways, and although One Most of the 66 accommodations are contained & Only Palmilla did not feature in the Top 20, it, within four- and five-story buildings. Our third-floor too, has a large and devoted Harper following. It felt Deluxe Ocean View Room came with a terrace, an quite strange to find myself at Los Cabos airport and unheated plunge pool and a hypnotic view of the sea. not to be heading to one of this illustrious triumvirate. We sat for a while, soothed by the sound of the breaking The new capella Pedregal is located in the town surf, scanning the water with the provided binoculars of Cabo San Lucas at the tip of the peninsula, whereas hoping to catch a glimpse of the last of the season’s its three famous competitors are all in the so-called gray whales. Alas, we were out of luck. The prime “Corridor” that extends for 20 miles northeast to San whale-watching season is January through March, José del Cabo. Much has changed since 1973 and the when Capella must offer an unrivaled vantage point. completion of carretera federal No. 1 that first ushered The room had been decorated in a traditional tourists down from the north. Cabo San Lucas is a raucous Mexican style with a beamed ceiling and handcarved woodwork. Frankly, we found it a little dark and the style more appropriate for an inland hacienda than a I felt as though I had been brand-new beachfront resort. But our surroundings unexpectedly cast in a James Bond were undeniably comfortable and provided all the modern amenities you might expect, plus a gas log fire movie and that Blofeld would be for evenings when the breeze turns chilly. The bath waiting to greet me. was appointed with a claw-foot soaking tub, as well as a large shower area with both ceiling and wall-mounted fixtures. On another occasion, we might opt to spend party town and busy cruise ship port nowadays, and not considerably more on a splendid 1,390-square-foot One an obvious place to construct an opulent five-star resort. Bedroom Beach Casita. These directly overlook the sand It was back in the 1970s that architect Manuel Diaz and come with private infinity plunge pools and fire pits. Rivera bought 360 acres of land at the precise point where The principal restaurant at Capella Pedregal is Don the Pacific meets the Sea of Cortez. There was then no Manuel’s, where the menu features modern Mexican means of access to the beach, which is separated from the cuisine. We mostly opted for fish, including outstanding town by an impassable rock-strewn ridge. Diaz Rivera built macadamia-crusted sea bass served with a side of aged a marina and a number of lavish clifftop residences, but it sheep cheese broth, and caramelized black cod with was not until 1999 that his grandson, Juan, decided to drill braised tomatoes. For appetizers, it was hard to resist a 1,000-foot tunnel clean through the hillside to the sea. the memorable ceviches. The resort offers the alternative Today, I cannot think of any other hotel in the world of a clifftop seafood grill, El Farallón, and an attractive that has a comparably dramatic approach. Tall iron gates beach club for casual dining. (The gazpacho served swing noiselessly aside and you enter a tunnel illuminated with crabmeat in a sundae glass was so delicious that I by chandeliers, with the Pacific glinting in the distance. would happily have it for lunch every day for a month.) I felt as though I had been unexpectedly cast in a James The Capella offers four pools — two for families and Bond movie and that Blofeld would be waiting to greet me. two for adults — and a long, private stretch of golden sand.

6 Hideaway Report | June 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685 The beach shelves sharply, however, creating rip currents of the city and its famous neo-Gothic church, the that make it far too hazardous for swimming. Activities Parroquia. A side table light missing a plug was evidence encompass golf on the six local courses, including Jack of the property’s recent completion, and while a walk- Nicklaus’ renowned Cabo del Sol Ocean Course, which in closet provided abundant hanging space, there was is invariably rated among the top 100 in the world. The an annoying and unaccountable absence of drawers. resort also has privileged access to the Cabo San Lucas A lavish modern bath with silver-framed mirrors and marina and its fleet. But during our stay, most of our gray marble surfaces provided a walk-in shower and a fellow guests did not seem to stray too far from the pool, soaking tub, though the latter was badly in need of one abandoning their loungers chiefly for appointments or two strategically located safety handles. Overall, our at the magnificent 10,000-square-foot Auriga Spa. room seemed comfortable, but in need of fine-tuning. Overall, the Capella Pedregal is a harmonious, self- One of the preeminent virtues of the Rosewood contained world. Although we have minor reservations is its tremendous sense of space. Extensive gardens about the interior design, it is already an outstanding surround a magnificent pool — ideal for swimming property and worthy to be mentioned in the same breath laps — that is overlooked by a row of spacious cabanas as its three illustrious competitors. 94 Ocean View Deluxe screened by billowing white drapes. There is also a King, $620; One Bedroom Beach Casita, $1,750. Camino del Mar – 1. Tel. (52) 624-163-4300. www.capellahotels.com

Over the years, we have made numerous visits to the picturesque cities of Mexico’s colonial heartland, among which Zacatecas, Morelia, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende have been designated World Heritage sites by UNESCO. Our favorite remains San Miguel, partly because of its steep cobblestoned streets, pretty pastel houses and grand 17th-century Spanish architecture, but also because of its exuberant and festive atmosphere. Located in the highlands, three-and-a-half hours’ drive northwest of Mexico City — or 75 minutes from the nearest airport at León — it delights visitors with lively cafés, colorful View of the Parroquia from Rosewood San Miguel de Allende craft shops, eclectic galleries and excellent restaurants. San Miguel also offers notable hotels, and the 37- children’s pool and a casual restaurant, Agua, nearby. room Casa de Sierra Nevada in particular has long The hotel’s other principal amenity is Sense, a spa with been a favorite of Harper members. January of this year five treatment rooms and an extensive menu of therapies. saw the debut of the 67-room Rosewood San Miguel Many visitors to San Miguel will want to dine out de Allende, so we decided to see whether it is likely much of the time, but for those who wish to eat at home, to provide its rival with any serious competition. The the Rosewood offers 1826 Restaurant & Bar, serving hotel is located about six or seven minutes’ walk south of both contemporary and traditional Mexican cuisine. the bustling main plaza, El Jardin, in a quiet residential On the two occasions that we ate there, the food was area. An entirely new structure, it was designed to blend excellent and the service obliging. The hotel’s real pièce seamlessly with the surrounding colonial architecture. de résistance, however, is the enormous Luna Rooftop Frankly, I had entertained one or two doubts about the Tapas Bar. Largely open to the sky, this has a sensational wisdom of creating a replica 17th-century mansion, 270-degree panoramic view, with virtually the whole of but my misgivings quickly evaporated. In the grand San Miguel spread out before you in a wonderful collage lobby lounge and atmospheric central courtyard, you of shapes and colors. On a calm evening, gazing at the immediately feel that you have stepped back 400 years. incredible view while sipping a margarita on the rocks Our third-floor room, #302, came with plain oatmeal is an unforgettable experience. As the shadows deepen walls and polished floors and was furnished simply and the church bells ring out across town, Mexico’s with dark wood furniture and leather armchairs. Its troubles seem far away indeed. 93 Colonial King, $450; most attractive feature was an enormous wraparound Junior Suite King, $675. Nemesio Diez 11, Colonia Centro. terrace that afforded a compelling panoramic view Tel. (52) 415-152-9700. www.rosewoodsanmiguel.com

To view slide shows and videos, visit Hideaway Report Online at www.AndrewHarper.com June 2011 | Hideaway Report 7 UPgrade of a jungle classic 1,500 feet, combined with effective fans, renders it superfluous for much Belize: The Lodge at Chaa Creek of the year. Gleaming hardwood mick and lucy fleming have come on an floors, white cotton-covered sofas and kaleidoscopic Guatemalan textiles all astonishing journey. It is now 30 years since help to create distinctive interiors of the couple opened a jungle lodge in the remote true sophistication. Spacious, well- Cayo District of Belize. Since 1981, they have equipped baths provide effective transformed a simple six-room property into a showers and excellent lighting. Overall, the Treetop Suites represent a leap from superb eco-resort that is also one of the finest solid comfort to genuine luxury. (If places in the world to enjoy a family vacation. they are fully booked, a Garden Jacuzzi One secret of the Flemings’ grounds manicured and the staff as Suite provides an entirely acceptable success is that they have never been engaging as ever. The resort employs alternative.) content with what they have achieved, well over 100 local people, and their Activities at the property include but have kept on raising the bar in soaring morale does the Flemings horseback riding, canoeing, hiking, response to rising expectations. First great credit. bird-watching and well-organized came electricity and hot water, then Chaa Creek is located on a 365- escorted trips to spectacular ruined a progressive upgrade of the thatched acre estate and is perched on a hillside Mayan cities such as Tikal, Caracol cottage accommodations. After a overlooking the clear, clean water of and nearby Xunantunich. time, Chaa Creek started to become the Macal River. The purpose of our The latest innovation at Chaa quite stylish, and the world began recent trip was to see the new split- Creek is a satellite tower for improved to take note. The steady program of level Treetop Jacuzzi Suites. These Wi-Fi and telephone communications. improvements reached a new level have been constructed so that their And, apparently, a new restaurant is in 2000 with the inauguration of decks are lost in tropical foliage, actively under consideration. Three a lavish hilltop spa. And in 2009, which is perfect for watching the decades on, the Flemings don’t seem another marker was passed with the abundant birdlife — including the to be slackening their pace! 95 Treetop installation of a splendid lap pool and spectacular Blue-crowned Motmot Jacuzzi Suite, $495. Tel. (877) 709-8708. sun terrace. and the Keel-billed Toucan — but less www.chaacreek.com It is a two-hour transfer from ideal when the howler monkeys turn To read more about family vacations in the Belize international airport to up at 4 a.m.! The suites are airy and Belize, plus an account of visits to the Chaa Creek, the last 15 minutes cool, thanks to steeply pitched roofs evocative cities of the so-called Maya of the journey being along a bumpy and screened windows. There is no Heartland, see Hideaway Report Online dirt road. We arrived to find the air-conditioning, but an elevation of at www.AndrewHarper.com

Andrew Harper Hotel and Resort Ratings Andrew Harper’s 500 Favorite Hotels in the World™ New Website 98-100 A truly great hotel/resort, among the finest of its kind in the world be sure to visit our new 95-97 An exceptional hotel/resort of great individuality and distinction website, which now features 92-94 An outstanding hotel/resort of genuine sophistication 90-91 A fine hotel/resort of considerable charm extended editorial content, dramatic photography, online Also Recommended 85-89 A commendable hotel/resort, providing high levels of comfort and service booking, enhanced search Not Recommended capabilities and a comprehensive 50-84 A hotel/resort that did not meet the Andrew Harper standard directory of Andrew Harper- recommended properties. Rates provided are published nightly room rates and are subject to change. At www.AndrewHarper.com, Call the Andrew Harper Travel Office for the best available rates, (800) 375-4685. members may also enter a sweep­ The Hideaway Report® is a privately published newsletter for the sophisticated traveler, 85% of our executive members holding the title of CEO/President/Owner/Partner. Issued monthly since June 1979. ISSN 0884-7622. For information, stakes to win a free five-night stay visit www.AndrewHarper.com or contact the Andrew Harper Membership Office, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768 USA. at the 2011 Hideaway of the Year, Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (630) 734-4610. Fax (630) 734-4642. Copyright 2011 Andrew Harper LLC. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. IL SALVIATINO near Florence. Editor-in-Chief | Andrew Harper Art Director | Kristina Mitchell Illustrator | Melissa Colson

8 Hideaway Report | June 2011 Personalized trip-planning assistance is available to members at (800) 375-4685