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Basic Silversmithing by Trevor Hannam

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Basic Silversmithing by Trevor Hannam By Trevor Hannam Silver (Ag) Specific Gravity 10.31 - A white pure metal that is too soft to be used as jewellery. Silver is mixed with copper to produce ‘Sterling Silver’, 925 parts of silver to 75 parts copper. This is the standard used today and is consistent world wide. Sterling Silver is normally marked 925 and has a melting point of 961°C - To use Sterling Silver it has to be annealed, that is, it has to be made soft or malleable by using heat. Heat affects metals in different ways, UNDERSTANDING THE GAS FLAME for example, when steel is heated to a straw yellow colour and cooled rapidly by dropping it into water it Cooler Flame - Incomplete Combustion forms an extremely hard metal that is used for files, 4 Known as an Oxidising Flame (reactive gas) chisels etc.. When Sterling Silver is heated to a dull red colour and dropped into water it goes very soft Hottest part of the flame is the working or pliable. Sterling Silver is quite different to steel as 3 Area - known as Non Oxidising (1,300°C) it is a non ferrous material. When ferrous metals are heated, atoms that make up the metal speed up and move all over the place. 2 Area of Intense Combustion When too much heat is applied the atoms become so violent in movement the meatal begins to melt or 1 become very soft, but when it is cooled quickly the Blue Flame - Coldest part of the atoms do not have time to rearrange themselves flame, consist mainly of unburnt gases into their normal lines, so the metal becomes ex- tremely brittle (easy to chip or break). 1) Is the coldest part of the gas flame as it consists mainly of unburnt gases Sterling Silver and gold work the opposite way caus- and air. ing the metal to become quite pliable, or as we 2) Area of complete combustion with intense heat at the tip (1300°C). Non know it, ‘Annealed’. Oxidising flame. 3) The area to solder with as temp is at When you start to bend Sterling Silver, you will no- the hottest and is a non oxidising flame which cause no fire scale (no tice that it will start to become stiff and as you keep free air to form oxidation) bending it will eventually snap. This is known as 4) This is a reactive gas area and con- tains unburnt gases, fire scale and is ‘work hardening’, and is true to all metals. As the cooler than No3 - (Do not use this area for soldering) metal bends it heats up due to friction of the atoms being forced to move within themselves. This causes (Fig 1) Gas Flame the metal to work harden, and like most metals, you will find that you will need to keep annealing the metal to keep it pliable (malleable). To anneal Sterling Silver - Heat to a dull red (approx 670°C) and drop into cool water The diagram above is that of a standard air and LPG flame from a medium size burner that is attached to a refillable or dispos- able bottle. The heat produced from this flame is quite hot and will melt silver and gold quite well (approx. 1300°C). 1 By Looking at the flame (Fig 1) on the opposite page you can see that the hottest part of the flame is at the end of the second inner cone (intense combustion). Because this flame between the No 2 & 3 areas consists of all burnt gasses and no air, makes for a perfect placement for soldering. This part of the flame is classed as a non oxidising flame, simply because, the flame contains no oxygen to oxidize the metal being heated (soldered). This type of LPG burner can be classed as an all rounder and will be used for nearly all of your jewellery work, consisting of silver, gold and most other metals as well. Silver Solder: Comes in three grades - Hard, Medium and soft. Hard: This solder melts at approximately 765°C Medium: This solder melts at approximately 740°C Soft: This solder melts at approximately 715°C The differences in melting points of the solders is due to the combination of copper and zinc base metals in the silver. Cut silver solder into very small snippets, approximately 1 to 1.5mm length pieces (from wire) when needed or you can cut a lot and store into a small container mixed with some borax powder which helps keep oxidation off the silver solder. If the solder you are using is oxidized, clean with a fine piece of wet & dry silicon paper or steel wool. Before you solder, you will need a good flux. - Why do you require a flux? When metals such as silver or gold are heated to high temperatures, they combine with oxygen from the air to form oxides. These ox- ides will prevent solder from fusing the metals together. Flux is used to dissolve existing oxides, prevent further oxidization and keep the metal clean, thus forming a perfect join. Flux must be able to withstand very high temperatures, not burn, yet remain active to keep the metal clean and free from air so that the solder can flow. Surfaces to be joined must be free from contaminates such as oils, waxes and dirt. This can be achieved by using a pickling solution which we will discuss just a little later in the session. The most common flux to use is made by CIG and is used for brazing. It is an ‘Easyflo’ paste and is white creamy water based slurry made mostly of Borax Powder. This will be the flux we will be using during the course, however, we can also use the liquid based flux available from most clubs, but I find the Esyflo flux better. Pickling of Metals: When metals are heated to high temperatures in air they have the tendency to form oxides as discussed earlier. This can’t be helped, it’s part of nature and is often referred to as fire scale. So! When soldering joints etc., you will use a flux to try and prevent this fire scale. Fluxes must be removed from the work piece when finished as they form a glass like substance on the surface of the work. To remove this scale (oxides) we have to use an acid. The acid that is normally used is H2S04 - Sulphuric acid and is available from most any shop that sells sealed lead acid batteries or from a chemical supplier (38%). The dilution rate for use is one to one by volume (1:1). A little caution is required here - Pickling solutions are acidic and must be handled with care. Alaways add acid to water - (The 3 A’s) and not the other way around as extreme heat from the liquids combining together can cause an explosive mixture. The acid will need to be heated to around 40 to 50°C when in use. Do not breath the fumes as it is highly irritant to the lungs and always keep the acid pot covered. Always use adequate ventilation at your work bench. If acid is accidently splashed on you or your clothes, wash immediately with plenty of water and use sodium bicarbonate with water as a neutralizer. Use a glass/Pyrex or ceramic (glazed) containers for the pickling bath. One of the best items for a pickling bath is an old coffee filter drip machine, which can be purchased cheaply from any recycling and thrift shop etc.. To pickle an article when soldering, just drop the piece into the hot pickling bath. This is a very efficient way to clean silver metals, but don’t leave the piece in the bath for more than a few minutes as the solder will begin to be attacked. This is due to the higher zinc and copper content of the solder. 2 Mixing the Pickle solution: Mix the acid with water in a ratio of 1:1 by volume, Always add acid to water, (make sure you get a 38% solution of sulphuric acid which is the normal percentage for lead acid batteries - Not 92%). It is always handy to have a small container of dissolved sodium bicarbonate in water for neutralizing any acid spills or acid from your work piece. This is particularly true for metals that have small pores or holes in it, otherwise further soldering can be difficult. Always use copper or brass tongs for pickling solutions NEVER USE STEEL If you use steel tweezers in the pickling bath your piece of work you have just completed will become coated in copper. You do not want this. What happens when using steel tweezers (or any steel piece) in a pickling bath cause an electric current to flow within the acid solution causing an electroplating action which covers your piece with copper. DO NOT LET THIS HAPPEN. Some basic equipment needed for metal smithing: • A small metal pick or long thin needle of stainless steel for moving solder snippets around your work piece • Rusty iron binding wire. Thin gauge used for tying larger work pieces together • Wire Hold Downs (The Third Hand) - Will show you how to make these at the end of this tutorial • Fire brick (must be soft type) • Gas burner or similar as discussed earlier • Round nose pliers • Flat long nose pliers • Jewellery saw and blades • Draw Plate if you can afford one • Beeswax and a small container of olive oil • Small Hammer (flat and ballpein) • Small vice of aluminium or steel with soft jaws • Wooden clamp peg for holding a ring etc • Jewellers ‘V’ type saw block • Tweezers - Steel for heating, Copper for acid bath and plastic ones if needed • Needle files • Wet & Dry silicon carbide paper - 300 to 600 grit • Paddle pop sticks and some contact adhesive • Tripoli pre-polish stick • Rouge polish stick • Fine steel wool for cleaning and polishing of silver • Small fine steel wire brushes if you can get them • Strips of cotton cloth used for pre-polish and polishing • A small spirit burner is handy as well Next Page - Using the Jewellery Saw 3 USING A DRAW PLATE TO REDUCE WIRE THICKNESS We have 600mm of 1.5mm sterling silver wire and before you can get your teeth into chain making you are going to have to reduce the thickness of the wire to 1.2 diameter.
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