Greater ’s Past Revealed ∙22∙

Castle Irwell A MEANDER THROUGH TIME Location of Castle Irwell, including satellite imagery from the 2015 archaeological excavation © Google FOREWORD

As with other publications in the Greater Contents Manchester’s Past Revealed series, this booklet Introduction ...... 2 sets out in a readable and well-illustrated style the Life Along the Irwell ...... 6 key results from recent large-scale archaeological Prehistoric ...... 10 investigations – in this case at the site of the Romano - British ...... 14 Castle Irwell Flood Defence scheme which has Medieval...... 16 transformed a former meander of the river. Funded Post-Medieval / Industrial ...... 18 by the Environment Agency, Archaeology Leisure and Sport Along the Irwell ...... 22 has carried out a range of archaeological and Fitzgerald’s House ...... 25 historical work ahead of development ground Castle Irwell ...... 27 works. A fascinating historical narrative has The Mysterious Linear Feature ...... 33 emerged: a possible prehistoric defensive ditch; Manchester’s Early Racecourses ...... 39 an early 19th-century mansion sitting on a rocky Return to Castle Irwell ...... 45 knoll, with associated gardens and farming estate Archaeology and Development ...... 49 buildings; no less than two historic racecourses, Glossary ...... 51 one of which attracted 20,000 spectators in Further Reading ...... 52 one day; and fi nal use as Acknowledgements ...... 53 sports fi elds and accommodation. A range of archaeological techniques has been applied to extract as much information as possible from the below-ground remains. But the booklet also puts these into a wider context by providing an account of other important archaeological sites along the river, and by describing the remarkable story of Manchester’s early horse racecourses.

The Environment Agency is to be commended for recognising the need to share the results of the archaeological investigations with the local and wider community. This booklet is the product of collaboration with the University of Salford, through Salford Archaeology who are the authors, and the planning system overseen by with support from the Archaeological Advisory Service. It is hoped that this publication is a lasting and appropriate legacy of the project.

Heritage Management Director, Greater Manchester Archaeological Advisory Service

•1• INTRODUCTION

Castle Irwell lies within one of the meanders of the , some 2.5km to the north-west of Salford city centre. Th e area, until recently, formed part of the University of Salford’s Castle Irwell Student , with student accommodation to the south and a variety of sports pitches just to the north. Land within the northern part of the meander was owned by Salford City Council and consisted of unused scrubland. Th e area was previously home to the Castle Irwell estate, built in 1826, with a mansion house located on a prominent knoll within the fl at and unassuming landscape. Th e site was also home to Manchester’s racecourse on two separate occasions, between 1847 and 1867, and from 1902 to 1963. Although the racecourse was held in other locations during the 19th century across the wider area, its greatest success and popularity was at the Castle Irwell site.

Th e Flood Defence Scheme Th ere is also a long history of fl ooding in Salford, with the most severe event in 1946 when over 5000 properties were fl ooded. Th e River Irwell is the primary source of fl ooding, which is a consequence of the large upstream catchments that originate in the and contribute signifi cant fl ows. Th e fl ood risk in Salford is also a major limiting factor on investment and development opportunities, and the predicted impacts as a result of climate change could also make existing businesses unsustainable. A number of schemes to manage fl ood risk have been put in place since the big fl ood in 1946. Th e main project was the Salford Flood Control Scheme, which was completed in 2005, and consisted of a fl ood storage basin, Plan of the new fl ood basin in the large meander of the river. next to Littleton Road, and linear defences Th e area of archaeological investigation is highlighted in red along both banks of the river.

•2• Th is scheme provided vulnerable properties with a 1 in 75 year standard of protection; however this standard was soon reduced when the eff ects of climate change were considered. In response to this ongoing issue the Environment Agency, Salford City Council and the local community have worked in partnership to deliver a new scheme, consisting of a large fl ood storage basin at Castle Irwell. Th e basin is very similar in design and size to the existing one in Lower with a storage capacity of 650 million litres of water, which is the equivalent of 260 Olympic swimming pools. Th e new scheme in combination with the existing fl ood defences improve the standard of protection to 1900 homes and businesses. Construction began at the start of 2015, and the initial works consisted of lowering the ground levels across the site to win material to build the large fl ood embankments around the perimeter. As part of these initial works, a programme of archaeological investigation was undertaken by Salford Archaeology with the focus on recording any historic features associated with the former mansion house and the racecourse. From the outset of the scheme it was clear that the local community had a keen interest in the site, so a Community Steering Group was set up which allowed them to fully engage in the project. Th eir main aspiration was the creation of a wetland within the basin which would provide a new resource for the surrounding communities. Th is approach to community engagement has been very successful allowing a real sense of trust and understanding to build between all the parties, which has been very benefi cial to the delivery of the scheme.

Photograph of the newly created wetland, looking east (taken in May 2017) •3• Archaeological Background Archaeological interests in development N are protected through national planning policy (the National Planning Policy Framework). Th is requires features of heritage interest to be identifi ed at an early stage in the planning process so that their signifi cance is understood and can be dealt with appropriately. Acting on advice from the Greater Manchester Archaeological Advisory Service (GMAAS), the Environment Agency commissioned the preparation of an archaeological desk- based assessment to identify the potential archaeological and historical signifi cance of the site. Th e assessment was produced by Salford Archaeology and was coupled with a geophysical survey, carried out by GSB in early 2015, which highlighted several Area of excavation potential archaeological features. Th ese related mainly to the grounds of the Evaluation trench former estate surrounding the base of the Building 0 200 m mound on which the mansion sat, but Linear feature also identifi ed a few buildings, including Plan showing the Castle Irwell excavation superimposed on a Google satellite cottages for estate workers, outbuildings image © Google and a glasshouse. Supported by this information, it was possible for GMAAS to recommend a scheme of works to ensure that the archaeology was recorded prior to its loss to development ground works. GMAAS also highlighted the local and regional interest in the racecourse and its history and specifi ed that a programme of historical research should also be carried out. In the fi rst instance, trial trenching was required to examine the character of below-ground archaeological remains and inform considerations of further, more extensive excavation. In the light of this recommendation, Salford Archaeology was commissioned to carry out the work by the project’s main contractor, Galliford Try, in accordance with an approved written scheme of investigation.

•4• Ten trenches were dug in March 2015. Whilst this revealed very little evidence for the racecourse, two of the trenches contained important remains relating to the Castle Irwell estate buildings and N associated features, which warranted an open-area excavation to ensure that all archaeological remains were fully recorded. A second open area focused on the results of four trenches, which identifi ed the bedrock that had once formed the natural knoll where the mansion was located. A large linear feature was also revealed, which appeared to encircle the base of the knoll. Th is had not been detected on the geophysics, and the trenching exercise failed to fi nd any artefacts or large ecofacts (animal bone, shell, etc). Dr Simon Hutchinson, a senior lecturer in the School of Life and Environmental Sciences, was consulted on the origins of the feature. His opinion concurred with the view taken by GMAAS that it was not geological in origin, therefore a second area was opened up to trace the extent of the feature, and implement a programme of environmental sampling. As well as recording the archaeology on site, it was appropriate given the general interest in the site to report on the results and disseminate that information for the benefi t of the local and wider community. Th is was achieved using artwork, erecting an information board on site, and producing this publication. Th is booklet aims to present the fi ndings from the archaeological investigations and historical research. Although the emphasis is on the Castle Irwell site, the wider historical context of development along the River Irwell is also considered to provide an overview of the rich heritage of the area.

m e

Kiosk painted by kelzo.com depicting the area’s heritage •5• LIFE ALONG THE IRWELL Deerplay Moor

Rawtenstall N River Irwell

Ramsbottom

Castlesteads Bury

Radcliffe Castle Irwell

Broughton Bridgewater Salford Barton-upon- Irwell Manchester Chat

Cadishead River Mersey

Manchester Ship Canal

010 km

Map showing the course of the River Irwell, from its source at Irwell Springs on Deerplay Moor to the

•6• The River Irwell rises on the high moorland just north of Bacup and fl ows broadly north to south for more than 62km, with a catchment area of around 700km², incorporating Greater Manchester and parts of Rossendale in . From its source at Irwell Springs on Deerplay Moor, the river fl ows through , and Bury before being joined by the River Roch near Radcliffe, and then fl ows west for over 5km to its confl uence with the River Croal, near Farnworth. Thereafter, the river takes a south-easterly course for 11km to Castle Irwell, and then turns to the west at Salford and fl ows Th e River Irwell snaking through Radcliff e near Bury. Th e empty expanse into Pomona Docks near , of land is known as the E’es, where excavations in the mid-20th century yielded evidence for prehistoric settlement (courtesy of GMAAS Archive) where it becomes the Manchester Ship Canal. , a further 10km to the south- west, marks the original confl uence of the Irwell with the River Mersey. The river passes through several large and smaller urban areas between Irwell Springs and Irlam, and changes from an energetic, upland stream in the Pennines into a river typical of the mid-course of many rivers, with a wide channel and large fl oodplain. Around Castle Irwell it forms a series of sweeping bends or meanders in the shape of a tight loop. The lower reaches, downstream of Salford, were transformed at the end of the 19th century by the opening of the Manchester Ship Canal, which became the UK’s third largest port during the Edwardian era.

A view of the River Irwell, taken from Cromwell Bridge in Broughton (courtesy of @richieburns117, Instagram) •7• The rocks underlying the catchment of the River Irwell are sedimentary, comprising muds and sands lain down hundreds of millions of years ago (in a shallow sea in the Carboniferous Period and later in arid, desert-like conditions in the Permian and Periods), and then compressed to form alternating layers of shales and fi ne to coarse- grained (known locally as gritstone). These relatively resistant rocks explain the upland source of the river in the peat- covered Pennine Hills and the steep and narrow valleys of its upper Evacuation of fl ooded homes at Silk Street, Adelphi, November 1866, taken from the course. The Pendleton or Irwell Illustrated London News Valley Fault runs roughly north- west to south-east through the catchment and earth movements along its course have caused rocks from different geological ages to sit side by side. This fault line is still active and was linked to the clusters of minor earthquakes that affected Greater Manchester in 2007.

There are also extensive deposits of debris throughout the lower part of the river valley that were left during the last Ice Age, ranging from boulders mixed with much fi ner material such as clay, to sands and gravels left by glacial meltwater. This area of north-west was glaciated relatively recently (only about 20,000 years ago) when massive glaciers, fl owing from Scotland and the Lake District, re-shaped the landscape as they moved southwards. As they retreated the huge quantities of rocks they had carved out on their advance were dropped and left behind. This would have affected river fl ow, the stability and drainage of the ground, and the landscape in quite complicated patterns.

The Irwell has formed a focus of human activity for thousands of years, from the prehistoric settlements at near the Centre and Castlesteads in Bury, to the densely populated industrial cities of Manchester and Salford. It has also seen many leisure activities during the 19th century, such as rowing and fi shing, as well as the location for Peel , one of the fi rst municipal parks in the country when opened in August 1846.

•8• The Irwell has been key to the industrial history of north-west England. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the river’s lower reaches were a trading route that became part of the Mersey and Irwell Navigation, which was opened in 1734.

Whilst the River Irwell has formed an integral part of people’s livelihoods over thousands of years and provided a calm backdrop for leisurely pursuits in addition to being the life-blood of local industry, it has also caused devastation across the centuries. The long history of fl ooding is well illustrated by the fl ood monument close to its banks in Peel Park near the University of Salford, where the height of at least two historical fl oods in 1866 and 1870 are recorded and clearly demonstrate the signifi cant area that was inundated by wvater. There were also major fl oods in Salford in 1946 and 1954, illustrating the long-term risks of the expansion of housing on to the fl oodplains of the River Irwell. A decision was taken in the wake of the 1946 fl ood to straighten and widen the river to increase its capacity. Work started in 1951, but it was

not until September 1970 that water fi rst fl owed through what is known as the Anaconda Cut.

The current fl ood defence scheme at Castle Irwell is the latest programme to manage the risk of fl ooding. The importance of installing better defences was illustrated vividly during fl ooding associated with Storm Eva and Storm Desmond in 2015, which fl ooded 2,250 properties, impacted upon 500 businesses and affected tens of thousands with power loss and road closures in the Greater Manchester area alone. The fi nancial cost of these two storms across the country 1972 Ordnance Survey map showing the original course of the river and the Anaconda Cut was estimated to be around £5bn.

•9• PREHISTORIC

Evidence for prehistoric activity as a whole is limited across the North West, in part due to acidic, poor soils for farming, a generally boggy landscape and locations probably exploited by prehistoric communities also becoming a focus for industrial activity. There are a number of places with documented prehistoric activity on lighter, more favourable soils along the river, although only a few of these have been subjected to more rigorous archaeological excavation.

Part of a pot containing cremated bone, found at Broughton Park Th e location of Nook Farm on (courtesy of (courtesy of Dr. Mike Nevell) Dr. Mike Nevell)

The earliest evidence for occupation dates to the Mesolithic period (10,000 - 3500 BC) when people would only settle temporarily to exploit particular landscapes at certain times of the year. Much of the evidence for Mesolithic activity from the area has been recovered from the uplands of the Pennines to the east where thousands of fl ints have been found, thought to be associated with temporary camps. Lowland evidence for Mesolithic activity is rare, although two possible temporary camps are known from the E’es at Radcliffe and Nook Farm on the north-eastern edge of Chat Moss, and a fl at blade dated to that period was recovered from an excavation at Barton in 2012.

•10• Th e sand island at Nook Farm showing as a white stain in the dark peaty Mesolithic fl ints (left ) and an early arrowhead soil (GMAAS Archive) (bottom right) from Nook Farm (GMAAS Archive) Excavation at Nook Farm during the 1990s revealed that it would have been an island in the past, slightly elevated above the surrounding wetlands. Information on the E’es is more limited, although it was located within a meander of the River Irwell and may also have been a small area of dry land elevated above wetter areas during prehistoric periods.

People began to settle permanently, cultivate crops and keep animals during the Neolithic period. Some Mesolithic sites, like the E’es, have yielded evidence for continued activity into the Neolithic period showing that this was not a simple transition. Much of the evidence from Greater Manchester is again from chance fi nds such as fl int arrowheads, stone axes and adzes.

The lighter and better drained soils along the river terraces would be likely locations for Neolithic farming activity, although evidence is limited from near the Irwell. Evidence for Neolithic activity was uncovered on where a ‘working fl oor’ consisting of worked fl int was discovered in 1863, together with a sandstone spindle whorl. A Neolithic fl int scraper was also found during construction of Irwell House on the Cliff during the 19th century, to the north-east of Castle Irwell. The recent archaeological work at Castle Irwell has provided further, tantalising indications of prehistoric activity along the River Irwell.

Mesolithic fl int blade excavated at Barton in 2012 •11• Late Bronze Age socketed spearhead found near Eccles in 2001 (courtesy of Portable Antiquities Scheme) The Bronze Age (2300-700 BC) saw the introduction of metalwork at a time of a favourable climate and rising population. A number of funerary monuments, such as cairns and barrows, date to this period and several are known to survive, particularly on higher ground. However, evidence for activity within the lowlands is still relatively sparse and poorly recorded. At Broughton Park (1.5km north-east of Castle Irwell), a Bronze Age cinerary urn was discovered in 1873 which may have been part of a barrow, and bones were recovered from the banks of the Irwell at Clifton in 1787, along with a ‘pygmy’ pot dating 2500-1500BC. Evidence for settlement during this period is also rare although excavations at in 1999, on a terrace overlooking the , revealed evidence for structures and fi nds including pottery and fl int tools.

The (700 BC-AD 43) saw a period of climatic decline, demonstrated by expanding peat bogs such as that at Chat Moss. Potential evidence for permanent settlement has been found at several lowland sites, although scientifi c dating and fi nds analysis suggest occupation during the later Iron Age and even into the Romano-British period. One of these is Great Woolden Hall near , located on a promontory overlooking the and excavated in the 1980s and. It was defi ned by two ditches on the eastern, landward side and contained at least two hut circles as well as hearths, rubbish pits and possible stock enclosures. Artefacts included pottery, burnt bone and quernstones, suggesting that people lived Excavation plan of Great Woolden showing the huts (black and blue) and and worked on the site. ditches (shaded)

•12• Rainsough and Castlesteads also date to this period, although investigation of these sites has been much more limited. Castlesteads was located on a promontory overlooking the Irwell, ‘defended’ by a single ditch and bank. Excavation revealed evidence for occupation from around the 5th century BC to mid-2nd century AD. Rainsough also occupied a hill overlooking the Irwell, although the site had been quarried and redeveloped as a housing estate before excavation took place. Evidence suggested it was occupied from the late Iron Age onwards, and fi ne Roman pottery Reconstruction of an Iron Age hut has been recovered from the site, including Samian ware.

Rainsough may have sat within a wider landscape of later prehistoric settlements just to the north of Castle Irwell, which have all but disappeared. The site of Castle Irwell itself was purported to be a Roman fort and is labelled ‘camp’ on the Ordnance Survey map of 1848. Another site known as Castle Hill located on a small promontory (between South Radford Street and Oaklands Road, Kersal) and one known as Lowcaster (near Bury Old Road and Ravensway) have also been identifi ed as possible Roman sites. All of these have been built over, with the exception of Castle Hill at Kersal.

d Rainsough camp shown on the Ordnance Survey map of 1848

•13• ROMANO - BRITISH C G 0 5 4.WPG J The Roman military gained control of north-west England U K T .CPECUVGT during the AD 70s and created series of forts at strategic + 3WGTPOQTG locations, often at important river crossings. The fort at Manchester () was founded around AD 79, and was sited close to the confl uence of the rivers Medlock and 44KDDNG Irwell. A civilian settlement was established adjacent to -KTMJCO the fort, making this more than a military outpost, and was 4KDEJGUVGT probably occupied until the 4th century AD. 9CNVQPÄNGÄ&CNG

Two Roman roads crossed the landscape in Salford; one along 4&QWINCU GNN %CUVNGUJCY Y the line of Bury New Road between Manchester and the fort at +T  (Bremetennacum), and a second from Manchester 9KICP 4 to , where it is thought to have connected with another /CPEJGUVGT road continuing north towards Walton-le-Dale and a crossing point of the . Walton-le-Dale, near Preston, is 9KNFGTURQQN 4/GTUG[ not considered to be a fort, rather an industrial settlement and

supply base which relied just as much upon navigation of 49GCXGT

goods along the River Ribble as well as along the roads. 0QTVJYKEJ

/KFFNGYKEJ

%JGUVGTG

‘Native’ farmstead sites, such as those discovered at Great G &   Woolden Hall, Rainsough and Castlesteads, have all produced 4

evidence for continued occupation into the Romano-British 0CPVYKEJ period. Fragments of Roman pottery, including black burnished ware and mortaria, were recovered from excavations at Great Woolden Hall, and Samian ware was found at Rainsough. .GIKQPCT[HQTVTGUU +PFWUVTKCNUKVG (QTV 4QOCPTQCF

 MO 

Roman North West

Burnished ware pottery dating to the 2nd century AD, found at Port Salford •14• Roman fi nds have also been recovered from an excavation at Port Salford, near Barton Aerodrome, although it is not clear whether the site originated in this period or earlier. A network of small enclosures, along with possible roundhouses and stock enclosures were uncovered in 2008 and again 2012-13. The site was on a low promontory which overlooked a former meander of the River Irwell and produced Black Burnished ware, mortaria and a glass bead. However, the fi nds were few in number, which suggested that this was not the main focus of settlement and that this lay further north. Glass bead dating to the 1st or 2nd century AD, found at Port Salford Y

Possible roundhouse at Port Salford t

•15• MEDIEVAL

Evidence for occupation during the early medieval period is limited across the North West, which is refl ected in the common name for this period, the Dark Ages. It is at this time that Britain was subject to waves of migration and invasion from both the Saxons and the Vikings. The earliest evidence for occupation from this period comes from the fort at Manchester where possible sunken buildings (known as grubenhauser) as well as Saxon coinage and jewellery were found during archaeological excavation.

Other traces of occupation during this period is often drawn from place names although only one nearby, Eccles (from Old English egles meaning church), hints at an early medieval origin. In 1889, part of a 10th-century cross shaft was recovered from the River Irwell in Eccles decorated with ring-encircled and meander patterns, typical of Viking artistic expression. Also recovered from the Irwell at Barton was a 10th- or 11th-century dugout canoe, which provides further evidence for occupation in the area during this period.

The focus of settlement in Manchester eventually shifted 1km northwards to a sandstone bluff overlooking the confl uence of the rivers Irk and Irwell; settlement is fi rst recorded here in AD 919. Whilst Manchester is thought to have been a modestly sized settlement at this time, Salford in 10th-century cross fragment recovered from the river at contrast was an important administrative centre. Eccles (courtesy of Dr. Mike Nevell)

•16• The Domesday Survey of 1086 provides evidence that Salford was held by the King as a royal manor and formed the administrative centre for a larger region known as the . The name Salford means ‘ford by the willow trees’, and is probably Old English in origin.

Large monasteries, built across the country during this period, often had smaller buildings within their extensive landholdings which provided vital income and resources for the monastic orders. Kersal Cell (1.3km north-west of Castle Irwell) was one, which was established sometime between 1143 and 1153 as a Cluniac Cell of Lenton , Nottinghamshire. It was small in size with a chapel and domestic range, as 14th-century documentary evidence lists the only residents as a and a prior. After the dissolution of the monasteries in 1536, the withdrew from the cell and the King granted the buildings to a John Wood, who erected the present Kersal Cell, now a Grade II* listed, timber-framed manor house. After changing ownership several times, it eventually ended up in the hands of the Byroms of Manchester in 1692. An estate map from 1755 shows Kersal Cell and the former ‘Priory’ and ‘Chappel’, although these were demolished by the mid-19th century. Kersal Cell ceased to be a private residence during the late 19th century, when it became a boarding school, before reverting back to use as a private residence. Kersall Cell (courtesy of Dr. Mike Nevell) During the 1930s, a Preservation Committee was established to open the house as a museum, however restoration work was suspended in 1941 because of the War. The building was eventually sold in 1949 and was used as a country club until the mid-1980s.

An archaeological building survey carried out during redevelopment in the 1980s revealed the detailed history of the building, which comprised a three-bay cruck hall of late medieval date, adapted during the late 16th century by the addition of two cross wings. A further extension was added subsequently during the early 19th century, although this was demolished as part of redevelopment during the 1980s. Excavation did not fi nd any trace of the priory, although a number of worked stones were recovered from the surrounding garden, some with mason’s marks and architectural moulding, which may have been part of the original priory buildings.

•17• POST-MEDIEVAL / INDUSTRIAL

A plan that was produced in about 1650 shows the extent of Manchester and Salford in the mid- 17th century, with settlement in Salford focused along the three medieval thoroughfares of Chapel Street, Greengate and Gravel Lane. The town’s location at a bridging point within a meander of the River Irwell is clearly apparent on the map, and continuous ranges of properties are shown lining both sides of Chapel Street and Greengate, and also along the approach to Salford Bridge. In Manchester, settlement had expanded beyond the historic core, with the Shude Hill, Hanging Ditch and frontages occupied completely with buildings.

The pace of expansion of both towns gained momentum during the 18th century, as captured on the series of later maps. Tinker’s map of 1772, for instance, shows an increased density of buildings, which included development on the banks of the River Irwell. This refl ects the importance of the river as a key communication route after the opening of the Mersey and Irwell Navigation in 1734, which provided an effi cient trading route between Manchester and the port of . Given the key role that the new navigation played in the commercial growth of Manchester and Salford, it is unsurprising that trading vessels plying the river are featured in Robert Whitworth’s acclaimed painting of the ‘South West Prospect of Manchester and Salford’ in 1734.

Plan of Manchester and Salford, circa 1650 Tinker’s map of Manchester and Salford, 1772

•18• Whitworth’s depiction of Manchester and Salford, dating to 1734 © Chetham’s library

By the late 18th century, Manchester and Salford were densely occupied with industry expanding down the banks of the Irwell. The Irwell catchment area was particularly well known for its numerous textile-fi nishing works, primarily because this industry needed large quantities of water. A parliamentary commission in 1868 estimated that on average, each factory consumed 400,000,000 gallons per year. This water was discharged back into the river, along with all the chemicals it had picked up during the textile-fi nishing process. Edward Corbett, the Borough Engineer of Salford, wrote of his father’s experiences in 1819 of seeing ‘large shoals of fi sh, chiefl y gudgeon, around New Bailey’. However, the chemicals dumped into the river from the fi nishing works meant that stocks declined dramatically after 1820 and, by 1850, fi sh stocks had all but disappeared.

Finishing works depended on clean water and some turned to pumping water from wells or building reservoirs. This was diffi cult for those factories based further downstream along the Irwell, particularly around Manchester and Salford, and many went out of business. The most successful ones were those further upstream, which managed to not only stay in business but even expand in some cases. Those around the Adelphi area of Salford in particular constructed large reservoirs and fi ltering ponds, no doubt partly in response to the increasing problem.

•19• The River Irwell was also seen as an attractive location for wealthier housing during the early 19th century. The peripheral areas of Manchester and Salford were becoming increasingly congested with cheaply built workers’ housing, factories and shops, therefore the wealthier looked to move to more desirable areas. Initially, they pushed out into areas such as the Crescent, less than a mile from the city centre; however, with the A mill and the Crescent Bleach Works, at Adelphi, in 1841 continuing improvement in transport links, suburbia developed further out. The Broughton area overlooking the Irwell was just one of these areas, and the Cliff in particular (now a Conservation Area) shows why suburbia became popular. The Cliff is viewed as a ‘prototype’ suburb, preceding the grand planned suburbs of places like Victoria Park in South Manchester, therefore the layout is not as formal as its successors. Individuals built their houses to their own tastes; these survive today and show an eclectic range of housing styles as the suburb developed into the early 20th century.

In contrast, further down the river, Charlestown became a focus for industrial development that commenced in 1780, when William Douglas established a water-powered cotton mill on the south bank of the Irwell, close to his home at Pendleton Old Hall. The mill was known as the ‘Cripple Factory’, where children were beaten if they did not work hard enough. Charlestown developed rapidly during the 19th century, although there was very little housing with much of it concentrated in Pendleton further south.

The growing pressure on land along the Irwell is refl ected in the increase of occupation along the length of the banks. It was estimated that 6% of the river bank length was in use for industry during the late 18th century, which increased to 44.5% by 1907. This also meant that fl ood events were recorded fairly frequently, with the earliest documented being in 1616. Flooding in 1767 damaged the relatively new Salford Quays, and further fl oods were recorded on no less than 16 occasions between 1768 and 1899. The most devastating of these was in 1866, when some 800ha of land was fl ooded with water rising 4.3m above normal levels in Peel Park.

•20• Th e Peel Park Obelisk commemorating the devastating fl ood events in 1866 (upper line) and 1870 (lower line). Th e level the river fl ooded to in the park is marked by the horizontal lines below the text

•21• LEISURE AND SPORT ALONG THE IRWELL

Despite the increased pollution and development along the banks of the Irwell, the 19th century saw the establishment of public parks, including Peel Park, overlooking the river. Much of the land was obtained from Lark Hill estate, which was owned by William Garnett at the time. However, a further 25 acres of land were obtained to the north, owned by John Purcell Fitzgerald of Castle Irwell. The park opened in August 1846 and was the fi rst one (of three) for the people of Manchester and Salford. People could enjoy, for free, skittles, archery, quoits, swings, playground and a gymnasium. Lark Hill House also opened in 1850 as a free public museum, library and reading room (now the Salford Museum and Art Gallery). As public fashions and tastes evolved, so did the park, with many of the activity areas being cleared during the later 19th century to make way for more decorative features, such as a fountain, bandstand and glass houses. But people could still indulge in leisure activities, with a bowling green and a cricket ground laid out. This may also have been partly in response to the number of fl ood events which frequently affected the park, including those in 1866 and 1870. At its height, 15 gardeners and maintenance staff were A employed in the park to maintain the fl ower beds and the general appearance. The David Lewis Recreation Ground to the north of Peel Park, established in 1897, extended the open space in this area even further.

Th e Salford Museum and Art Gallery, formerly a private house known as Lark Hill •22• The also has a rich sporting heritage, well documented by Simon Inglis in his book Played in Manchester, amongst others. A number of activities were established on the river itself, including the world’s oldest angling club, the Salford Friendly Anglers Society, which was established in 1817 and is still going strong today. The club offered more than the opportunity to fi sh along the River Irwell; during the early days, the club also offered monthly savings, sickness and death policies which guaranteed an income to those unable to work. A copy of their membership card from 1840 possibly shows Castle Irwell house in the background as two men fi sh. The A view along the edge of Peel Park and the River Irwell, looking south Rowing Club was established in 1861, which raced annual regattas up to 1997, between Littleton Bridge and the boathouse just west of Kersal Cell. However, due to the improvement in the environment along the River Irwell, the increase in vegetation and weeds meant that the club moved to their current base in Salford Quays.

Archery was popular in the area and the Broughton Archers were formed during the early 19th century, counting infl uential local men as its members. The club eventually became established at the Turf Tavern, immediately south-west of the Kersal Moor racecourse, and a large dining room within the was specially reserved for them. When the racecourse was moved, they had their own ground alongside the cricket club.

The fi rst recorded round of golf was also played at Kersal Moor in 1820, on a course consisting of just fi ve holes. This Membership card for Salford Anglers Society was set up by a small group of Manchester businessmen, some from 1840, with Castle Irwell House in the of whom had emigrated from Scotland where modern golf had background © Salford Anglers Society originated during the 15th century. There was only one other golf club that had been established at this time, and the Manchester Golf Club is regarded as one of the pioneers of the modern sport.

•23• Broughton Cricket and Rugby Union Pavillion, Lower Broughton Agecroft regatta along the River Irwell, date unknown Road, Salford © Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives

Kersal Moor was also used for but eventually became sports ground, home to Manchester Football Club (actually a rugby team) in 1919, and since 1976 has been the home of Salford City FC. The Adelphi (within the River Irwell meander east of Peel Park) was also home to two of the earliest cricket clubs, Broughton Cricket Club (established 1823) and the Athenaeum Club. The Broughton Cricket and Rugby Club ground is still in use today.

•24• Th e Ordnance Survey map of 1922, showing Kersal Moor and the golf course FITZGERALD’S HOUSE Th e Fitzgerald family Th e Fitzgeralds were a longstanding family, whose ancestral lands were based on Little Island in Waterford, Ireland. It was John (Purcell) Fitzgerald (born 1775) who built Castle Irwell in 1826 on a wooded knoll within a meander of the River Irwell. John was not a Fitzgerald by descent, however he married into the Fitzgerald family and adopted the surname. It is not clear how or why he came to own land in Pendleton but he owned a signifi cant amount, including Pendleton Colliery. John appears to have been based mainly in Suff olk at Boulge Hall, which had been bought for him and his wife Mary by her father, also John Fitzgerald.

John Fitzgerald’s foray into coal mining in Pendleton was not successful. Shaft s were sunk initially in the 1820s, and whilst production had reached 1,000 tons per day by 1840, a series of misfortunes befell the colliery. In 1843 and 1846, the mine was severely fl ooded which aff ected Fitzgerald’s John Fitzgerald (1775 -1852) built Castle Irwell and invested in Pendleton Colliery business and in 1849 he was declared bankrupt. His total debt was valued at around £354,000, around £37 million today, with only a tenth of that value in his assets. Despite this bankruptcy, he appears to have carried on at the mine, and it was not until aft er he died in 1852 that it was taken over by Andrew Knowles & Sons, who also owned . Th is company invested in new equipment, and increased production by expanding the underground workings. Pendleton Colliery became well known for the depth of the workings, which had reached 1200 yards below the surface by the early 20th century.

•25• In 1847, prior to his bankruptcy, John Fitzgerald granted the Commitee a 20-year lease on part of the Castle Irwell estate at a cost of £500 per annum. Th e Committee erected a large grandstand with seating for 1,000 spectators, which aff orded views of the whole racecourse.

John Purcell Fitzgerald (born 1803) inherited the estate upon his father’s death in 1852, along with numerous other properties, although generally had little to do with Castle Irwell. By all accounts, he was a pious and charitable man and well known for his work around Seaford, East Sussex and Boulge in Suff olk, although this generosity did not extend to his sons. He wrote letters to the national newspapers in 1877, openly disapproving of his son Gerald’s decision to stand as the Waterford County candidate supporting home rule. He also bailed his son Maurice out of debt, who frequently gambled his money away betting on horses.

When John Purcell Fitzgerald passed away in 1879, he left around £1750 to various charities, missionary societies as well as churches. Gerald Purcell Fitzgerald inherited the estate as his brother Maurice had passed away in 1877, aged 42. Peter Reid, possibly owner of Caledonian Bleach Works in Whit Lane nearby, is documented as a tenant in the early 1880s. In 1898, the Fitzgerald connection with Castle Irwell ended when Gerald sold the estate to the John Purcell Fitzgerald (1803-1879) spent little time at the Castle Irwell estate Manchester Racecourse Commitee for and resented the racecourse (image courtesy of Seaford Museum) £40,000.

•26•

CASTLE IRWELL

Castle Irwell House was built in 1826 on a sandstone knoll located within a meander of the River Irwell, known as Hylewood. Th is was believed to be site of a Roman camp, although no fi rm evidence has been uncovered to support this claim. It was one of four supposed Roman sites observed by the antiquarian William Marriott ‘within the Vale of Broughton, in the present township of Pendleton’.

Th e most illuminating antiquarian description of the site is probably that written by John Whittaker in 1775, who described ‘an oblong hillock of sand. It has an uneven surface about half an acre in extent, had its entrance, as it still has, on the south-west, and another opening behind to the river, and is surrounded in every part by deep ditches, steep ascents, or both’. Whittaker emphasised the strategic location of the mound, with commanding views across ‘the beautiful valley in which it is placed’.

However, in his early 19th-century Castle Irwell House in a photograph thought to date to 1870, but more likely to description of ancient remains in be just prior to demolition © Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives Lancashire, Samuel Tymms refers to a Hylewood as a supposed Danish defensive earthwork that ‘has been the subject of much e controversy, but recently proved to be the outcrop of the natural rock’, presumably referring to observations made during the construction of Castle Irwell House in 1826.

•27• Castle Irwell House had an irregular shape and displayed a diverse range of architectural styles and infl uences, as shown on 19th-century photographs of the area. Edward, John P. Fitzgerald’s brother, wrote in 1830 that it was a ‘funny little castle, like a needle box… tho’ it is a desolate place’. Th e building underwent alterations at least once, in 1862, when one of the crenellated towers was removed and a pitched roof placed on A view of Castle Irwell House in 1900 © Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives top.

Documentary research suggests that the Fitzgeralds spent little time at Castle Irwell during the earlier 19th century, and the only resident recorded in the census returns for 1851 and 1861 is a George Cox, who was a caretaker and gardener for the estate. George did not live in the house, but occupied a cottage that lay to the north-west of the knoll. Th e cottage is shown amongst a range of other buildings on historical maps, which also mark the garden paths around the base of the knoll. As part of the re-establishment of the racecourse at Castle Irwell in the 20th century, the house was demolished and the knoll and surrounding area was completely fl attened, removing any archaeological evidence. Excavation to the north-west of the knoll, however, revealed the foundations of Th e layout of Castle Irwell and its grounds shown on the Ordnance Survey the gardener’s cottage and other features of map of 1893 interest.

•28• Excavated remains of the gardener’s cottage and outbuildings Th e cottage was a modestly-sized building, with a fl oor plate of 14 x 6m divided into two or three rooms at ground-fl oor level plus where the stairs led up to the second fl oors. To the north were two possible outbuildings, a coal-storage building and an outdoor toilet. A wall running north/south from the cottage separated it from a lane which led up to the racecourse. Th is lane appeared to have been well maintained with layers of crushed cinder. George Cox may well have maintained a small kitchen garden, or similar, in the space to the north of the cottage, as well as the estate garden. Th is appears to have been an attempt at a wild garden, and there is little evidence to suggest that there were any formal gardens.

By the late 19th century, the estate had undergone some modifi cations and it is likely these took y place aft er the racecourse had moved in 1867. Th e census of 1871 shows that the Fitzgeralds were occupying the house and a new gardener, Robert Buckle, had been brought in and was living in the gardener’s cottage.

•29• Castle Irwell Lane was realigned and moved further west in the second half of the 19th century, and several structures were constructed over the old road. Th ese may have been storage sheds for the variety of plants coming from the garden and the glasshouse, which was added to the north of the cottages at this time. Th e glasshouse had a separate sunken storage area, which may have been a pit house where plants were propagated or simply a storage area for coal, as well as a little boiler house attached to the north. Th e structure itself had a shallow brick foundation, with brick pads running down the centre all to support a possible cast-iron frame with glass.

Coalstore Cottage Boiler and flue Toilet

Glasshouse

Propogation room 1871 house

Original line of Castle Irwell Lane

N Brick Stone Mortar Greenhouse

0 10 m

1847 Castle Irwell Lane re-aligned to racecourse

Plan of excavated cottage area

•30• Despite Fitzgerald’s lack of involvement at Castle Irwell, he evidently was willing enough to invest in the modest estate aft er the racecourse had moved. It was around this time that glasshouses had become more aff ordable and allowed the middle classes to emulate those at large estates around the country and produce their own exotic plants.

Th e wider landscape was still partly agricultural and partly wild, with formalised paths leading through trees, especially on the knoll. Th is was a typical fashion at the time, off ering a contrast to the heavily polluted industrial cities and an escape from them.

Th e truncated remains of the glasshouse with central brick pillars which would have supported a cast-iron frame

Sunken building west of the glasshouse, possibly for Small boiler house for heating the glasshouse propagating plants

•31• However, this initial investment appears to have been short lived as an additional house was also added sometime between 1871 and 1881. It was described as a lodge in the 1881 census, although the occupant was a police constable, suggesting it had been built to rent out to supplement the estate income. A calico printer designer was living in the former gardener’s cottage by this time 0 as well, suggesting that the estate was no longer maintained by specifi cally employed staff . Th ese changes coincide with John Purcell Fitzgerald’s latter years and the inheritance of the estate by his son Gerald. It appears that the family lost all interest in the estate, refl ected in its eventual sale during the late 1890s.

P ath

(u m)

20

1 2 A G E R

1 0

Works

40.0m

A number of small structures were constructed into the remains of the old road (revealed as a dark cindery deposit),

including an additional house (foreground) 0

•32• THE MYSTERIOUS LINEAR FEATURE

VE RI A D

16 N 1 22 LLO 4

I 4

48

6a 19 1 66.6m 74 9 4

10 9 439d Pond 56c 2 Pond

34.4m 2

9 0 1 15

8 41.1m

ISIS CLOSE 8 1 3

6

2

18 15

2 7 1 11 UE Pond 2 27 N 2

456a 6 8 Path (um)

60

HALL AVE 1 a

AD 9

O ) 3 R 4 LD 20 5 IE Issues 2 22 1 EF N N 45 T ES I M 6 D 24 6 2 Path (um E 6 Pond W 1

11 KERSAL OUTH A S Y

C Path Path L (um) (u O UE N m) S E E Kersal Cell 266 AV DE SI LL 9

0 26 HI 500 m

2

1 28 2 5 7 E 14 1 RIV El Castle Hill 1 R D S TE u ITEWA b Sta WH River Irwell 7 42 28

26 5

2 7 4 0

3

44 9 )

1

1 7

1 th (um

1 L 11 a 6 P R

2 2 AM iver Irw 60 2 67 ell O 15 46 R N 25 SH A ) 8 IR Lying at what was the base of the knoll (um LEY C

Path 0 L

18 OSE

3

2 1 71 1 2 9 34.4m

Play Area AVE

9 1 N 2

U

7 E 9

31 Castle Hill 32 2

31 62.7m 32 8

0

9 1

1 8 1 Spreads 34.1m 1

AD O R 2 4 DS 8 N LA K

OA 1 to 81

1 10 1 9 15 11 Tilehurst

21 Court

8 242 9

T

1

9

1 TREE 02 S 2 2 6 D R ) O (um

th

DF Pa Issues 8

2 UTH RA 0 O S

Posts 1

2

M 3 60.6m ONSAL

AVENU 19 E 9

17 1

P Shelter

a 18 Sports Court t h 2 6 17

18 was a long, curving linear feature which

32.8m

5

1

240 0 Issues

LB 17 7

4

2 2 1 ESS AVENUE Issues Car Wash MAT 00 E A 1 B VENUE COM ST EA 12

Shelter E

35 5 08 Kersal Val e 1 to 9 Play Area

Path (um)

0 1 Issues CALTON AVENU

MONSAL AVENUE Synagogue 3 1

15

1 Issues

1

29 16 5 Peninsula 2

1 2

23 0

15

2

1 1 1 19

Tennis Court 23

River Irwell

Issues 416 T E E Salford Sports Village D STR 2 R 12 O 222 Spring ADF TH R U O S Issues P F a B

th

(um)

1 2

9 was revealed in archaeological trial

1 2

9

10 Y A

30.8m 402 L W A 2 1 2 1 1 Path KERS

4 139 Issues 12 ENT CRESC 29.9m CLIFF

ath 55.1m P P LI 1 NUE a t T E h 1 T ( LE AV u

m) 4

00 T 2 ON

5 DLOW 2 RO HUR

A

1

D 4 2 1

202 KIN GS 134 LEY AVEN UE 7

River Irwell r Irwell 29.9m 9 e D

Riv N ROA

12 TO GH 466 (um) OU 392 BR 23 Path 15 LOWER trenching. Th e investigation of this

19 21 25

1 1 5 1 17 27

30.7m 1 13 3 8 8 1

11

3

3 1 4 1 3 AD

TCB 12 RO

6 N

1 3 O

8 Z 4 R

9 62 4 28 3 CU 5 Sewage Pumping Station

2 Posts

00

1

11 2 0 4 58 3

9

29.9m 41 2

4

41 40 5 460

4 PH H AS

SO P AVE 38 NU 38 E 2

1 45 6 2 4 6 B 45 ACK

H

36 PH O

1 P 34 E S 3 T 7 RE 8 4 7 ET 49 KIN 8-9 GS 51 Unit

L

EY 49 4

5 4

30 29 A 5 59 6 Posts V 51 31 ENUE 4 57 AVENUE 7 2 22 it 1 24 Un

28 59 Knoll Street 26 29.8m 27 18 5 5 5 4 l Industrial Park

8 63 4 51.7m 40 57 GRINDON

38 65 1 4 er Irwel 43 ES STREET 55 Riv 1 69 71 21 LOW

23 7

14 3

30.7m 36 29 34

51 444b

1 4

53 3 7 5 REAT C

8 G 3 7 ia Court 4 1 feature, however, demanded a multi-

rn

32 44a 3

38

19 4 a 30 49 4 S

36 4

20 4

42 2 17 c a 2

8

8 4 The Cliff

b

2 HO 2

6 4 4

34 30.3m

c P 2 E

51.5m ST

43 R 4

2 2 EE

5 4

8 4

45 2 T

6 a 5 451

U

n

it

7

4

CHEADLE AVENUE 5

30

2

7 8

39

41

8

VENUE RUSHLEY 1

NUE 39 37

26 19

6 43 24

57 35

35 5

STANTON A 0 4

BRADLEY AVE 3 9 4

2 AVENUE 12 N ROAD

31

33 17 2 3

20 UGHTO 17 3

8 O El Sub Sta 49.6m 37

R B 6

18 31 A B C 29 K 1

HOWE 18

53

46 16 ST 17 2 2 RE

6 E 3 LOWER T 2 29

1 315 4 E 4 HAM l Su

27

b 4 14 I LTO 6 51

Sta 49 44 42 49.1m

43 N S

25

27 2

2 7 9

2 T LOWER KERSAL 12 R

EE

3 C 40 3 HE T AD 1 LE 2 AV disciplinary approach to establish E

NU 3 362

E 45

21 1 5 13

3

4

41 21

43 1 2

5 2 36

34 Scarr Wheel 6 2 1 ST 1

17 19 7 1

GLAS

1 2 H 16 O 5 AL W SOP E ST AV RE DOU EN 4 2 E UE BACK D T

30.5m 5 UNC

39 AN S

TR

42 EE 350

T

23 9 4 162 6 437 3 25

12 SHERWOOD 1 AVENUE 1 37

4 2 30.3m

2

21 4

15

1 158 1 3 28 60 1 19

8 46.9m 0 3

9

8 33 30 19 35 32 Gloucester House

15 30

17 15

13 LB 346 1 45.2m 1

31 3 28

49.3m 11 11 5

13 4 303

7 29 4 435 3

Pat 9 2

6 DU h 1 9 N (um 1 CAN

9 13 3

) ST e 3 6

3 2 42 R

25

15 27 EE 8 24 4

22 T 301

17 5 7 7 44.2m

19 Th 21 e 21 Coac LI h

23 Ho TTL 2 u 6 se Saraniya 3 its origins and date. As part of the

T

ET 5 3 4

Dhamma E 32 O 2 4 ET

N ROAD 6 3 1a 4 E Meditation 0 6 WIN 3

1 S 5 TE Centre 9 6 R A VENU OWES STRE S STR

4 1 301 L

UE E LA N 20 C

T G 57

431 U 1 1 9 8

11

DO

2

1 GREA 33 6

1

6

14

BEESTON AVE 8

7

330

1 43 1 16

52 2

14

5 418

1 4 0 Shelter 5 41 1

1 49

2 39 30.2m 23 99 2 1 35 5 3

10 37 P 4

16

ath 31 Shelter 5 51.4m

(u El 410 8 3

m) 3

6 3

Sub 2 2 7

2 2 Sta 29 1

9 P 4 2 a 13 t 27 h 142 ENUE 3 9 2 3 AV 25 Y 9

9 3

PRIOR

3 21 14 N 421 VY

ER Football Ground

M D 400 A 4

RO 37.9m 42.4m

2

3 6

319 46.7m 79 2 1 o t 1 8

417 2

River 30.5m 3 30

6a 6 archaeological work, a geophysical Irwel 7 Shelter THE PRIORY 2

1 30.5m 1 306 S l T C E 37 OV El E E 1 L 7 L 2 3 ST

Sub Sta STR OAD 50 R

Lower Kersal 27 EE

9 R

0 T

NG 24 3 ON RT LI Community Primary School IP ALLE K

TH

8

NOR 1 5 EST 2

300 o

t W 1 T

15 8

130 TREE

LB 5 S 40 6 2 1 N 1

PO 5 14 O T

STREET ING L L

2 3

0 7 34

9 WE

1 2

2

52

94

295 ET OWES to 30 E L

TR C 1 S 15 32 4

A St Philip's 30.8m 292 1 1 2 RC a

EGATT 1 11

R Church 29

2 2 1 Hall 1 1

28 GREAT

1 1 2 ROAD

4

1 N 2

42 Works 2 8 10 6 31

RUD

89 9

2 YA RD LI 1 3 22 S T 2 TREET T 8 L 6 2 E

TO ET 41.2m E 32

N 9 R 1 2 R LOWER BROUGHTO ST OA PRIORY GROVE 42 River Irwell

37.9m D survey was carried out over the site, 1 16 NLEY 411 Holly Court

MA

77

2 2 30

1 4 1 to 38 0m

46 8 44.

3 Ps River Irwell 0

1 15 28 2 FB 16 3

St Johns 3

40 4 65 30.5m

390 Court 2

1

7 0 2

3 2 8

41 0 16 0 Path HUGH 399 O 38

VA LDHA M 8

DR 4 L IV 6 Laburnam Court ENC 7 E Post S IA R T 16 A I

O DAN'S G 33 28 AD 1

298

ROV 253 15 29.8m 19

E g masonry 12

38.1m pin ARR

Slo AN 2 S TR

Works t Aidan's h E

S 13 E 1 rc T

2 UKRA 2

1 Chu 6 1 ) it n

INE

40.3m l U

1

ROAD 51 7 entia

2

1

23 Resid 2

Bluebellia Court 0

Path (um)

AD 5 376 Diment O 3 ( although this feature was not seen in the AYRSHIRE R 1

Me

2

8 di 1 The Willows Works cal

90 Nursing Home 5 Ce 3 St n

t 5 1 re B oniface St Boniface RC N RC 2 ursery Primary School

2 237 LANGLEY 94 Football Pitches 6

1 7

SE

1

3 O 4a

1

Allotment Gardens 4 ROAD 2a

Pavilion 36

2 9 Playing Field ONOHUE CL 2 SOUT

D

1 2 1 H 2

W 16 68

Works 25 H 2 IT LA School h at 11 30.5m N 2 P E 5 House 1 to 8

7 223

360 GR Ben 27

MACKENZIE ROAD E

UR 13 A g 2 T a C irn

LFO YEW S LO

3 LB BA 58 TR W STREET EET ES

S

2 T 1 R E

33.9m River ET

28

6 1 Irwel 1

2 8

3 El

6 4 l 5 1

HAFTON ROAD 30 Sub

1 Sta 211

25

39 37.8m

4

Jubilee Bridge 2

4

4

9

3

2 FB 3

7

Castle 9 results. Th is could have been due to the 3 4 3

56 2 5

6 35 28.6m C

Irwell LIF

3 F 2 3 AV 1 E 3 2 Student N 4 U 79

E 4 28 31

29

40 Village

5

9 3 4

35

2 27

1 Club

1

Shelter 348

243

6 1

197 2 1

EET NORTH 1 7

rdon Walk 1 7

55 6

5 1 Culve 19 31.4m 5 15

50 Kempton 4 2

17 9 E BAILS House 11 45 TH GR 42 ROAD ASSFI RD GRECIAN STR ELD A

2 STAMFO VENUE 15

17

4 34

4 4

3

14 G

195 49 RIFF 2

ehouse

1 Castle Irwell Student Village 7

13

IN 3

2

7 STREET

33.8m War

3 BRITANNIA STREET

5 Rectory

1 1 Racecourse Hotel

34 12

8

Shelter 1 2

(PH) 1 2 Sports Facility 3 2

11

9 TCB

10 23 Club

15 21 Sports Ground

13 389 1

4 to

43 3 19 Bowling Green

17 Anias Mews 26 Leaf

DIN DRIVE 387

25 E

10 Cottages 3

33

1 41

6 DUN 23

o 1

51 t

4 Parsons 1 18

Field 185

53 39

96 28.6m

37 construction of the racecourse features,

2

9

5 3 2 2 37 1 9

7

34 8

47 7 49 Charlestown 1 119

0 3

4

7

4

7

SM 336 45 30 8 35 THE POLYGON 1

86 1 3

24 11 5 5 11 9

28 40.0m 18 6 Castle Irwell

15 Student Village 18 OA 30 K

Weir 3 ROSEMARY GROVE R

2 38 OAD 5 2

20 3

43 101

SM 2 6 0 Sports Ground 9 2

5 AM STREET WEST 326 H Shelter IELD El Sub Sta 1 27

0 SONS F

71 PAR GREAT CHEET

2

0

3

8 0

HAYMOND 1 91 1

Littleton Bridge 9

HELENS 74 12

32

320 89 4 to 87

GRECIAN STREET NORTH

Rising 3 21 29 18 38 VILLE AVENUE CLOSE Bollards

85

2 7

24 1 32.9m 38 3 Sloping m 8 Works LK 33.2m WA

1 3 8 8 DIGO River Irwell 18 VILLAGE STREET

IN a

sonry 2 16 Caretakers House 42 Castle Irwell

BRITANNIA ST Student Village 316 1 Rising 373 4 ollards B 64 20 which may have aff ected the readings. 43

44 Nursery

REET Slo

pi

11 15

n

g

m

a

s o

nry

2 27 8

1 FIELD

1 12 1 6

6

PARSONS 13 4

5 31.3m 1 8 11

SM 32.3m 1f T 48 c 1d EE 1b 1 1 RED STR 6 1a

El Sub Sta 28.9m 1e MILD

10 32.3m Tank 32 10

Ascot

Whit Lane 32.3m 152 to 7

23 W

8 al 14 k 16 26 G 2

REENSTON 54 361 STREET Enys 2 O ) E Walk INDIG DRIVE um 49

31

9 to 134 to 9 12 2 2 h ( 2 Albert Park 40.1m Pat 30.1m ot Walk

Asc

1 11

7 8 1 33 TREET WEST 32.6m CHEETHAM S GREAT 19

LB 158 to 153 LB 1

2

117to 122 9 1 5

44 3 42 TCB 1 29.4m

36.7m 32.0m 30 302a 3

140 to 135 4 2 Sports Court

2 1

9 4

3 ESS

1 READ DRIVE ING Cromwell Bridge 18 LANGLE STRE LE ET

Tennis Courts

AUCKLAND EAG

1 GISBORN DRIVE Castle Irwell Student Village 2 Y

GREYTOWN CLOSE 159 to 164 to 159

RO

10 29.3m 2 123 to 128 to 123 AD S 1 lion El Sub Sta vi DRIVE 30.4m O Pa ENS Play Area UTH TCB IAN GARD Shelters ION CROMWELL ROAD

3

32 7

4

CONDOR 3 18 13

PLAC 1

32.0m 8

5

E 3

4

1

4

3

20

34

17 32

2 2

t o 12 o

22 Car Park 4

70 341

19 141 to 146 to 141

165 to 1 to 165 29.9m 17

15 on Pavili 7

26 2

PAL Saw Mills GREEN 1

26 32.9m MER 11

48 El Sub Sta 26 ST Casino 5 to 10 11 LITTLETON ROAD 40.4m DOUGLAS 2 RE AEGEAN

ET 4 30 11 10 9 LO Lodge

CKE 21

28.8m

32.9m TT STRE 18

3 9 E 5 T 63

11 DENS

16 GAR

7

Orchard 9 4

1 3 ENS

Trading REET 2 MIAN GARD

El Sub 11 Mast SA

LEVENS STREET River Irwell 3

8

3 1 ALBERT PARK ROAD 36.7m 7 3 12 (Telecommunication) 3 Estate Sta OWEN ST 2 31 V

1

E

1 16

7 2 R

LOWE 43 to 53

NON STREET 5 14 2 T A

64 LA

32.3m 62 2 Bowling Green

R V

4 G Trial trenching across and beyond the WHIT 17 7 ERA

3

Muirhead 5 B 1

8 R 3 1 ROUG 26 18 ECIAN LANE S

Court 9 22

T 16 53

31 35 1 R 2 10 o EET 5 6 5 St Seb HTO 21 t 8

4 S

6 7

RC 14

ast 323 TR Pr ian's 1 29.9m N R im 21

ar E

SUFFOLK STREET 27 y 9 5 7 Sc OAD 29.3m E 5 8 OSE

hool 4 T 10 55 34 14

Park View

7 32

2 SMOUTH CL

45 T

St George's C of E R 24 O

St Sebastian's THIAN AVENUE 1 P

Primary School 27 CORIN

8 1 6

12 22

1

4 37 RC Church NORFOLK STREET 31.7m 22

2 9 194 4 14

28.8m 1

3 to 19 16

1 1

2 2

2

11 29 MI

33.2m LNTHO 274 7 3

37

alk RPE 12 S TERRACE 13

1 3 TREET 2 NILE 31.4m 4 3 7

7 2 4 OAD

2 Holland W

33 9

0

9

ESS 5 3

34 2 1

2 17 0

11 ERT PARK R 13 B

2 L

35 36 A

Garage 15 9

1 18 13

2 HADLEY STREET 8 1 Pr 180 15 29.5m

LB esby 27 tery 43

1 20 7

19 1 14 28.3m 2 37

3 22

4

5 37

1

20

4 2a 3 2 2

9 3

9 39 2 BAS 4 C

r

178 S oft

ET A HELEN STREET 0 30 1 27 V 7 EN B

19 1 48 UE n Terrace 18

ank a

49 16

2 1a 23 Greci

15 0

4 3

Energise Healthy 3 1

3 NE

1 3 0 1 Tank 1

3

Livi R 34

OMNEY 61 170 29.9m

GERAL L

17 8

n S

2 STR

g Centre 1 D TROJAN GARDENS 2 O R 5 EET

OAD 17

MP .75 1 71 1 N

D OSE

5 S

3

47 7 2 4 4

5 TRE

ACE 1

ROA 1

9 1 1

PL 17

3 30 3 7 E former position of the knoll fi rst revealed 6 8 1

2 AMPTON CL

1 H CROFT T

3 4 3

7 6 16

St Sebastian's 11 OUT

31.1m 0 5 S

Bridge Mills Business Park 7 7 CROMWELL E

CONCORD Community Centre Shelters 11 V 1 140 4

45 1

74 13

S

o

9 t

22 T

EDALE STREET 38 3

1 1 36 REET 1 3

SL 17

15

295 158

4 Shelters 8 6 rge's Place 53 25

32 4

33 7 4

St Geo 9

12 132

7 13 GREYHOUND DRI

7 2

5

3

6 3 1

7 1 6 2

5 6 2

SE

3 1

1 DOUGLAS GREEN 14 9

33 3

A

a

7 2 2 5

6 F 77 5 2

ORD ROAD

1 5

8 8 8

1 BOWRING STREET

0 1

19 144 Posts

3 1 1 64 Shelters Calder House

87 4

11

1 28.1m

3 7 12 1 2 20 64 NOAN GARDENS 18 MI 2 22 19

23 49

97 1a HADDON

Beehive 1 24 10 74

4

St Georges Church LODGE 1

REDDAWAY CLOSE

Inn 1 IA 9 1

42

8 14 and Family Centre 2 (PH) 107 SQUARE 127 VICTOR

GOSPORT 23

4 1 ST

8 0

B 2

16 3 EEL 6 11 R 31 St George 9 117 EET WIT 9 LICH

F E

I 9 8 EL 10 Y STR 1 1

74 HYC D S 25 TREET SM ROWSLEY STREET 2

4

9 5

2 1 1

9 19 St Bernard's Close 2 4 6 8

HOLLAND STREET L 6 O 3 to

ANGLEY 3 1 W

1 12 15

9

E 9 3 1 M 4 7 s W 12 ROAD SOU e 5

TH B ET 3 27 E PLACE a 1

Refuse Tip ve ouse

a 4 8 H 2 6

y r H 7 lin

11 14 0

37 04 1 Bol 1

134 9

(public) o 2 2

37.8m u 7 9 s 1

10

e 1

11

7 1

Surgery GERA 9

1

7

8

11

3 to to 3

4 LD ROAD 1 1 2 18 EY STREET 1 1 1

49 27 1

AT 14

24 9

TABL H

2 E

N

8

2 2 1 IA

19

27 33 DRIVE N

1 2 2 GA

39 61 33 5 12 Cromwell 4 28.7m

1 8 6 PO this feature and as part of further R

House DEN 1

106 27.8m

1 to 12 135 1 CAIRN 1

10 2 to 11 8 14 17 S 188 35 1 3

WB L 73 ST 7 ICH 29.6m B FIEL 145 ERNAR THE AVENUE D ST D'S 8 186

2 250 to 252 R El Sub Sta 2

EET AVEN

WAL UE 96 OSWALD CLOSE 269 Club Cock Robin Bridge 1 to 2 83 147 2 1

SAL

10

1 ESS Orchard 100 2

WB L 105 17

(Footbridge) 170

33 S 5 5

Industrial TRE 1 1 4 5

23 6 1

26 161 o Su t Estate E rge T ry A 16 1 lbion 2 1

2 Garden 6 21 2

117 16 141 11 3

1 12

4 TCB

8

26 C 8 5 OL SL 2 LI 2 BROUGH

Charlestown 1 E AVE 1

LACE 8 T

12 MANIFOLD STREET NU O ipeline 9 C 2 N P E BION P LANE

ORCHARD STREET 17 R AL

5 OMWE T 1

Works TCB ESS 'S 15

3 Carlton EE 282 7 The

8 H)

Cromwell Garden ARD 2 (P

13 12 LL G 2 9 S

5

RUGELEY STREET 4 N 15 28 CAMP STR

SE

7 ESS RO 8 2 5

21 LOSE

1 T BERN C

T 25

VE 63

ESSs S CLO 1 1 10 DIC 6 1 G 7 14 E

G 9 6 3 UNE GARDE

8 296 BEN

5 EPT LB 74

N 1

3 7

1

8

9

2 2 1 1 3

1 14 91 28.9m 17 R 9

7 5 0a 6 ids 23 24 2 1 10 Walk 22

19 d 10

ale 1 3 4 excavations, the feature was traced as N far as possible. It was uncovered over a length of 63m and then sectioned in several places to try and retrieve any dating evidence and establish its origins. Th e depth of the feature varied greatly, between 0.30m and over 3.00m. Over some of its course, it was cut into the natural sandstone bedrock, although for most of its length, it was sandstone on the western side and sands and gravels on the east. As the feature progressed north-westwards (and as it got steadily deeper), the natural geology consisted of sands and gravels on both sides.

010 m

Plan of the linear feature •33• No terminus could be established at the north-western end, although it was identifi ed at the southern end. Th e material infi lling the ditch also varied greatly and no two sections were the same. Most of the fi ll consisted of silty sands in varying colours, although a couple of the sections had large deposits of very compact dark grey-brown clay which proved diffi cult to excavate by hand. Th e feature and its fi lls have been assessed by geologists and archaeologists, and have also been subjected to several scientifi c techniques. A number of soil samples were taken from diff erent fi lls across the length of the ditch and subjected to XRF, pollen analysis and radiocarbon dating. Th ese were undertaken at the University of Durham (pollen analysis), Scottish Universities Environment Research Centre (radiocarbon dating) and the University of Salford (XRF).

Th e linear feature under excavation, looking north-west. Here it was cut into sandstone on both sides, fairly narrow and shallow in depth

•34• A Natural Feature?

Excavation alone could not ascertain the date or origin of this feature as no artefacts were recovered. Dr Simon Hutchinson of the University of Salford, an expert on sedimentary deposits in fl oodplains, visited the site and suggested that it may have been a natural river channel although he did question where the ‘energy’ would have come from to create this feature. It was concluded tentatively that the feature may have been a Nye channel, which is a sub-glacial meltwater channel created from the weight of the ice above and carved by glacial debris. Th ese do display Th e southern terminus aft er excavation. Th e feature at this point is partially cut into sands and gravels (to the right) the characteristics seen at the Castle Irwell feature, such as an undulating profi le and a sudden terminus.

However, the paleaoenvironmental information gained from the analysis of the pollen did not fi nd evidence for any peaty, organic remains. Th is suggests that it was not a naturally formed river channel as there was no evidence for permanently standing water. Th e geophysics results also back this view up as they did not show on the magnetometry survey, likely because there was no organic matter placed in the ditch to increase the magnetism of the soil. Only increased magnetism in the soil will give off a strong enough signal to Th e further north the feature progressed, the sandstone gave way to show up in magnetometry results. sands and gravels and the fi ll was much more diffi cult to excavate with a higher clay content. Th e depth was nearly 2m at this point

•35• A Prehistoric Feature?

Th e pollen analysis concluded that there was enough of a viable sample for radiocarbon dating. Th e result obtained from one sample provided a date range of 3955-3764 cal BC, which is Early Neolithic, raises the possibility of early prehistoric activity in the area.

Although henges, with their impressive sized ditches are a close parallel for the feature, none are known to encircle a natural knoll, they are regular in shape and tend to date from the Middle Neolithic (c.3500 BC). Carn Brea in Cornwall also off ers a possible parallel as this had comparable dates. Th is was a tor enclosure, occupied between 3700-3400 BC and was enclosed by stone walls as well as a bank and ditch. Th e linear feature under excavation, looking south east, was However, this is a very geographically restricted much wider and deeper at this point as well as being cut into the enclosure type and as the evidence for Neolithic natural sands and gravels (to the left ) activity at Castle Irwell consists of this date and one unstratifi ed fl int, it is not enough to conclude with complete confi dence that this was an early prehistoric feature.

Th e palaoenvironmental assessment concluded that the pollen evidence suggested extensive woodland clearance and agricultural activity. Th is pattern may date from the Iron Age onwards, and that the feature could be later prehistoric in origin. Th e early mapping suggests that there may have been a Roman camp on the knoll and these were oft en confused with earlier enclosures. However, ditches normally encircle the top of a hill and not the bottom; also the ditch suddenly terminates at one end and there was no evidence for it starting again, making little sense from either a land demarcation or defensive point of view. Th e feature varied greatly in depth and width and at this point was <1.50m wide and no more than 30cm deep

•36• Landscape Garden Feature?

What is interesting is that for all of its excavated length, the linear feature corresponds to what has been interpreted as a path on the fi rst edition Ordnance Survey encircling the base of the knoll. Th ere is also a footbridge crossing the feature, close to the caretaker’s cottage, which suggests that it had depth and may have been part of the designed garden landscape around the house. It would also explain why the depth varied and was as shallow as 0.30m, where it could have formed another access point from the knoll. Designed garden features, which utilised natural features similar to the feature at Castle Irwell, were in fashion during the 19th century. Examples include Cragside in Northumberland, built in 1863, which has sunken gardens along the bottom of a natural valley within which the house sits. Part of the Brodsworth Hall Gardens in South , laid out in the 1860s, utilised an old quarry to create a grotto and a partially sunken garden with ferns and evergreen shrubberies. Mature beech and yew trees overhang the extensive rock garden and paths run along it and through tunnels at diff erent levels. s e

t Line of the linear feature superimposed on the Ordnance Survey map of 1848

•37• Th e Castle Irwell feature could have been a small-scale attempt at these ‘wild’ gardens. However, it may have been short lived as there was no evidence for recutting and very little for natural silting. Th is would explain why the feature did not show on the geophysics results, as short-lived features would not give off an enhanced signal for magnetometry. Th e sands and gravels would not have formed stable sides for the ditch, and it does not appear to have been open for long. Th is could explain why, when subjected to XRF analysis, industrial contamination was not found in the soils. It could also explain why a Neolithic radiocarbon date Salford Archaeology staff sampling the linear feature for further analysis was produced, alongside an Iron Age pollen profi le. However, the map does suggest a continuous path and it was proven through excavation that the ditch did terminate at one end. Th e geophysics results also suggest a ditch that has naturally silted over time, rather than infi lled with deliberately imported material. Th e demolition and landscaping process prior to the racecourse may have removed any trace of the upper profi le of the feature, and this may well have continued in use as a garden path but at a much shallower level.

Despite the diff ering expert input, analyses and interpretations, no defi nitive answer can be given for the date and origin of the linear feature. Th e diff ering methods of analyses that the profi le and fi lls have been subjected to have off ered contrasting results and consequently several interpretations have been off ered. Th e most likely explanation appears to be that it was part of the garden landscape at Castle Irwell, but this in turn could be a modifi ed version of a pre- existing feature. Although a full explanation remains elusive, the whole process of establishing the date and origins of this feature has been a multi-disciplinary eff ort from archaeologists, geologists and scientists. It has also demonstrated the collaborative nature of the discipline and the numerous techniques that can Brodsworth Hall: Th e grotto and fern dell © Michael Garlick be employed to interpret archaeological features.

•38• MANCHESTER’S EARLY RACECOURSES

Horse Racing

Horse racing had a huge impact on the sporting legacy of the Irwell Valley. It is fi rst documented in the Manchester area at in 1647, with the tradition ceasing in 1963 when Castle Irwell closed its doors. During that time, horse races were held at 12 diff erent locations around the Greater Manchester area although only three held them for any length of time: Kersal Moor, overlooking the River Irwell; Castle Irwell; and New Barns in . Th e latter hosted one of the most valuable races in the country, the Lancashire Plate, which was run from 1888-93 with a prize of £11,000. Amongst the other short-lived courses were those at Heaton Park (1827-38), Eccles (1839) and (1845).

Castle Irwell Racecourse in November 1962 © Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives

•39• Kersal Moor

Kersal Moor was the main racecourse for Manchester between 1681 and 1847. Th e course was 1636 yards long (inward side) and equipped with a grandstand and several booths. Th e course hosted annual horse races, usually during Whit Week, where the Kersal District became a giant fairground for several days. Th e annual gathering saw use of a cockpit and the running of ‘smock races’, where ‘slightly clad women’ would compete to win prizes such as smocks, tea or coff ee. Other activities which made ‘the holiday the more complete’, were Undated plan of the original racecourse at Kersal Moor ‘freakshows’ and gypsy kettles which would entertain one and all between the actual races. However, it was also frequented by pedlars, prostitutes and thieves who could no doubt conceal their activities thanks to the three large central hillocks which also off ered spectacular views of the course. Religious leaders opposed the presence of the racecourse and successfully got race meetings banned in 1745, although racing resumed in 1760 thanks to the support of the landed gentry who sponsored many of the horses and jockeys. Horse racing continued at Kersal Moor until 1847, when the Manchester Racecourse Committee’s lease expired and was not renewed

Kersal Moor was also used for more than the horse racing events; in 1818 a coal miners’ meeting was held there to publicise a case for improved pay. In 1838, the Chartist Movement held a meeting with workers and politicians attending in favour of parliamentary reform, including the right to vote for all men aged over 21. Th e total attendance is unclear; the movement claimed 300,000 whilst the Manchester Guardian estimated 25,000. In 1848, shortly aft er the racecourse had closed, the moor became an encampment for the East Norfolk Regiment, although this was only temporary.

•40• Th e First Castle Irwell Racecourse

Following the termination of their lease of Kersal Moor in 1847, the Manchester Racecourse Committee turned their attention to a new site down the hill to the south. Th e land at Castle Irwell was ‘exactly the kind adapted for the tender feet of the high mettled race’ and within a few months of Kersal Moor races ceasing, they had started again a few hundred metres away downslope. Th e Committee rented the land at Castle Irwell on a 20-year lease from John Fitzgerald at an agreed sum of £500 per annum.

Racing on Kersal Moor (c.1830) attracted a large number of people although it revolved around more than just the races. Th e building at the top right is likely to be the grandstand

•41• Th e new course at Castle Irwell was triangular in shape, measuring 1 mile and 18 yards long, with turf slightly raised on a slope from the inside of the course to prevent horses slipping. It had three stands designed by Alexander Don Starkey and Edward Cuffl ey, architects based on Cross Street in Manchester. It boasted a grandstand that provided for the jockeys, with an enclosure at the front containing a betting ring at one end and the judges’ Th is image is dated to 1847 and appears to be the fi rst Castle Irwell chair and stabling. Racecourse

Any fears that the new course would not be a success were soon allayed as spectators fl ocked to the races which commenced on 26th May 1847. Th e new location allowed spectators to view from the higher ground surrounding Castle Irwell, especially up towards Higher Broughton although men were deliberately employed to keep trespassers from the slopes below Kersal Moor. As at Kersal, the racecourse off ered more than just a day at the races; it was also used for the annual inspection of army regiments. Th e races also attracted illegal betting, and incidents of ‘welching’ (reneging on a bet) were frequently reported in the newspapers, as were other forms of gambling on boards, cards, dice and marbles. Th eft s were also frequent, mostly through pickpocketing. Despite its popularity when John Purcell Fitzgerald inherited the estate, when the lease expired in 1867 it was not renewed ‘for just and Christian reasons’. His pious nature combined with having to rescue his son from horse racing gambling debts meant that the racecourse was once again in need of a new home.

Th is may also be the original Castle Irwell racecourse, dated to 1850. Trees to the left appear to be screening off a hill, which has been interpreted as the house © Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives •42• New Barns Racecourse

Th e decision to not renew the lease of Castle Irwell led to a frantic search for a new site, and previous locations where races had been held temporarily such as at Heaton Park (1827-38) and Hall (1844-46), were considered. Eventually, a site was chosen further downstream, alongside the River Irwell to the south of Regent Road, and New Barns racecourse was inaugurated in 1868. However, it was not long before the racecourse was under threat once more. In 1882, a ship canal scheme for the Irwell and Mersey rivers was proposed and presented to parliament for royal assent. Among the reasons presented was the lack of competition that the Liverpool Engraving of the Manchester Ship Canal and Salford Quays produced in 1898, showing New Barns Racecourse Docks off ered.

New Barns Racecourse and the Port of Salford on the Ordnance Survey map of 1896 •43• It was argued that the new ship canal would increase competition, provide jobs and cheaper goods. Although it took three years for the bill to be passed in parliament, the Manchester Ship Canal Company had already staked out suitable land by the River Irwell, including the New Barns racecourse which was earmarked for a series of docks.

Th e Manchester Racecourse Committee had received assurances from Humphrey de Traff ord, who owned the land at New Barns, that another suitable site would be found for the racecourse. However, as time progressed, it became increasingly clear that they would not get the suitable site promised by de Traff ord. By this time, John Purcell Fitzgerald had died and the estate had passed to his surviving son, Gerald. Like his father before him, it appears Gerald had little interest in Castle Irwell as he sold the estate to the Manchester Racecourse Commitee in 1898. Th e company demolished the Castle Irwell house, levelled the knoll it sat on and created a new racecourse for the 20th century.

Castle Irwell Racecourse 1929 © Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives

•44• RETURN TO CASTLE IRWELL

Now owning the land outright, the Committee formed a company to turn Castle Irwell into an advanced racing facility and, arguably, the fi rst purpose-built 20th-century sports venue in Manchester. It was enclosed by perimeter walls, making it easier to police, and trams ran up to the entrance. Th e facilities were designed to cater for all classes of punters. It had three separate tracks for fl at, hurdle and steeplechase racing, as well as a purpose-built stable block at the northern end of the course. Th e turnstiles were located on Cromwell Road and several stands lined the eastern side of the inner Irwell bend, with the member’s stand located closest to the entrance and directly opposite the winner’s post. Th e course changed little over time although there were additions as the course modernised, and the Racecourse Hotel opened in 1930.

Th e racecourse was popular but numbers began to decline aft er the war, and in 1961 a collapsed sewer left a gaping hole next to the winning post. Th e Club Stand was also found to be riddled with rot but despite fi nancial problems, Ernest Etherdean was commissioned to design a new stand. Th is was the fi rst fully cantilevered reinforced concrete stand built in Post-War Britain and led to Etherdean being commissioned to design new executive stands for Manchester United in 1964. However, this stand had only been completed two years when racing once again came to a halt in Manchester. Th e fi nal race at Castle Irwell held on 9th November 1963, was attended by 20,000 people.

Th e new racecourse had to be fi t for the 20th century and included an impressive array of facilities, including the member’s stand (shown with the clock tower) (courtesy of Chris Pitt)

•45• Aerial view of the racecourse, date unknown, looking north-west. 1 = Turnstiles; 2 = Ordinary Stands; 3 = Tattersall’s Stand; 4 = Members’ Stand; 5 = Water Jump; 6 = Judge’s Box; 7 = Winning Post; 8 = Racecourse Hotel (built 1930). Image courtesy of Chris Pitt

Th e site was advertised for sale following the closure of the Castle Irwell racecourse in 1963. A property development company expressed an interest in the land with the intention of delivering a residential scheme, although the proposal faltered and was not progressed. Th e University of Salford also registered an interest in purchasing part of Castle Irwell and, in 1973, fi nally bought most of the site and its redundant buildings for £46,000, and constructed a student village with purpose-built accomodation blocks to house 1,600 students.

•46• Crowds outside the racecourse 1941, showing the turnstile building on Cromwell Road, adjacent to Cromwell Bridge across the river Irwell. © Manchester Libraries, Information and Archives

A view of the disused turnstile building in 2018

•47• Following their purchase of Castle Irwell, the University of Salford set about developing the site as a new student village. Th is comprised a total of 46 housing units in a number of three-storey accommodation blocks, set across 1.2 hectares. Th e northern part of the site was developed by Salford Council as public playing fi elds, which were accessed from Kersal via a new concrete bridge across the River Irwell.

Th e former racecourse Members’ Stand was retained to become an entertainment venue known as the Pavilion, or ‘Th e Pav’, and was run by the University of Salford Students’ Union, until it closed in 2009. Th e rest of the Student Village closed in June 2015 and, during the following year, Th e Pav was seriously damaged by an arson attack, Castle Irwell Students Village in the 1980s which led to the demolition of the building.

In March 2015, the Environment Agency commenced with an £11.75 million scheme to extend the River Irwell fl ood defence scheme already in place on Littleton Road, and create a fl ood basin and nature reserve at Castle Irwell combined with playing fi elds on the north of the site. Th e scheme involved the demolition of the redundant Student Village, and the creation of a fl ood basin and wetland covering most of the Th e Etherdean-designed concrete cantilever stand for the racecourse (pictured site was completed in March 2018. here in 2003) was incorporated into the University of Salford Student’s Union and was aff ectionately known as ‘Th e Pav’. It was destroyed by fi re in 2016 and was demolished in early 2017

•48• ARCHAEOLOGY AND DEVELOPMENT

Th e archaeological investigations described in this booklet were undertaken as part of the planning process. Th is type of archaeological work is carried out across England by professional archaeologists and it is normally funded by the developers. When considering an application for a new development, the local planning authorities in Greater Manchester have access to specialist archaeological advisors to help them in assessing development impacts on archaeological sites and historic buildings. Th is key role is fulfi lled by the Greater Manchester Archaeological Advisory Service (GMAAS), which also maintains the Historic Environment Record, a database of all known archaeological sites found in the county.

Historic Environment Record map for the Castle Irwell area (left ), Waterford Bridge that is shown as a monument point on the Historic Environment Record map, photographed in a site visit in 2014 (middle), the front cover of the desk based assessment for Castle Irwell (right) Th e advice provided by GMAAS is in accordance with national guidelines, which were fi rst implemented in the early 1990s and are presently covered by the National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF), which was introduced in 2012 and updated in July 2018. In the case of buried archaeological remains, developer-funded archaeological work is usually performed over several stages. Normally, as at Castle Irwell, a desk-based assessment forms the fi rst stage of work, which will be completed on behalf of the developer by an archaeological consultant. Th is assessment considers the presence and likely survival of any potential archaeological remains in the proposed development area. In order to do this, the assessment examines historical maps and documents, photographs, and the results of any historical or archaeological work completed in the vicinity of the proposed development. As part of this process, the Greater Manchester Historic Environment Record will also be consulted. Th is digital record is presently maintained by GMAAS, and contains details of all known archaeological sites found in Greater Manchester.

•49• If following the assessment it is felt that archaeological remains might be present, as at Castle Irwell, intrusive investigation is likely to be recommended. Th is will initially take the form of an archaeological evaluation, comprising the excavation of trial trenches across the areas of archaeological potential identifi ed by the desk-based assessment. Th e aim of this trenching is to determine the presence or absence of buried archaeological remains and if present to establish their character, date, and state of preservation.

Depending on the results of the archaeological evaluation, a further phase of archaeological excavation may then be recommended. Th is focuses on those areas that have been identifi ed by evaluation as having archaeological signifi cance. It usually involves excavating large, open areas in order to uncover the extent of any signifi cant remains that are present within the development area. During this phase of excavation, all the archaeological remains are recorded and all artefacts are collected. Following excavation, the records and artefacts are ordered, catalogued, analysed, and interpreted. An illustrated excavation report and a site archive are then produced, which are eventually deposited with a local museum. Th e NPPF also stresses the importance of making the information generated from archaeological investigations publicly available. It has been the intention of this booklet to achieve this aspiration, telling the story of the rich and fascinating archaeology along the corridor of Evaluation trench being excavated in 2015 the River Irwell.

•50• GLOSSARY

Antiquarian student of antiquities or things of the past. More specifi cally, the term is used for those who study history with particular attention to ancient artefacts, archaeological and historic sites, or historic archives and manuscripts.

Cinerary urn an urn for holding a person’s ashes aft er cremation, especially as used by Classical and prehistoric cultures.

Cal BC radiocarbon dates that have been calibrated using tree-ring data.

Calico a plain-woven textile made from unbleached cotton.

Cruck-frame a timber frame used to support the superstructure of a post-medieval house. Th is is formed from a blade or inclined timber, that meets with a similar timber, to create a triangular frame.

Hundred a geographic division used formerly to divide a larger region into smaller administrative divisions.

Radiocarbon dating a method for determining the age of an object containing organic material by using the properties of radiocarbon, a radioactive isotope of carbon.

Samian ware a type of fi ne, glossy, -brown pottery widely made in the Roman Empire.

XRF X-ray fl uorescence (XRF) is a non-destructive analytical technique used to determine the elemental composition of materials.

•51• FURTHER READING

• Arrowsmith, P. and Hartwell, C. 1988 ‘Kersal Cell: A House of the Lesser Gentry in Salford, Greater Manchester’, Archaeological Journal, Vol. 3: 71-93

• Greenall, R.L. 2000 Th e Making of Victorian Salford, Lancaster

• Gregory, R. and Miller, I. 2015 Greengate: Th e Archaeology of Salford’s Historic Core, Greater Manchester’s Past Revealed, 13, Lancaster

• Inglis, S. 2004 Played in Manchester: Th e Architectural History of a City at Play, Swindon

• Miller, I. 2012 An Industrial Art: Th e Archaeology of Calico Printing in the Irwell Valley, Greater Manchester’s Past Revealed, 6, Lancaster

• Redhead, N. 2004 ‘Th e Archaeology of South-East Lancashire’, in Th e Buildings of Lancashire: Manchester and the South-East, C. Hartwell, M. Hyde, and N. Pevsner (eds.), London: 11-21

Th e River Irwell at Wallness Bridge, taken by Ian Roberts in 2008 (Flickr: Pimlico Badger) Copies of the detailed archaeological reports produced and other unpublished material have been deposited with the Greater Manchester Historic Environment Record, which is maintained by the Greater Manchester Archaeological Advisory Service (GMAAS) at the University of Salford. Other pdf volumes in the Greater Manchester’s Past Revealed series can be downloaded at: diggreatermanchester.wordpress.com/publications

•52• ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Th is booklet is a product of historical research and archaeological investigation conducted in 2014-15 by Salford Archaeology, on behalf of the Environment Agency as part of the creation of a fl ood storage basin scheme at Castle Irwell. Th e project and this booklet was funded by the Environment Agency and the works were carried out by Galliford Try and Black & Veatch, who facilitated the archaeological works.

Salford Archaeology would like to thank those who supported the project and the booklet publication, especially Connor McIlwraith and Stephen Kemp at the Environment Agency, who also wrote the section on the fl ood basin scheme. Th anks also go to Norman Redhead, Heritage Management Director at the Greater Manchester Archaeological Advisory Service for his guidance and advice throughout the fi eldwork and publication process. Th anks also go to the numerous people who were involved in analysing and interpreting the linear feature, particularly Dr Simon Hutchinson, Environment and Life Sciences Lecturer at the University of Salford, for his comments and thoughts regarding the origin of the linear feature as well as the XRF analysis. Graeme Attwood (formerly GSB Prospection, now Magnitude Surveys) off ered comments and thoughts regarding the geophysical survey results over the linear feature. We are also grateful to Chris Pitt for providing images of the Castle Irwell racecourse during its heyday. Th anks also go to Chetham’s Library, Seaford Museum, Salford Angling Society, Salford Local Archives and Manchester Libraries for giving permission to use certain images.

The text was prepared by Rachael Reader Design and illustrations by Richard Ker Produced by University of Salford / Salford Archaeology Funded by The Environment Agency Published by Salford Archaeology, , The Crescent, Salford, M5 4WT Printed by Flexpress

•53• The River Irwell has had a signifi cant infl uence on activity and settlement in the area that currently forms Greater Manchester for thousands of years. The earliest settlers took advantage of the river’s tight meanders for defensive purposes, whilst medieval settlement in Salford was established at an important fording point. From the late 18th century, the river provided a source of power and water required for new industries, and was also used for leisure pursuits. The river has also been a source of fl ooding in Greater Manchester, and a recent scheme carried out by the Environment Agency to address this issue at Castle Irwell in Salford revealed fascinating evidence for the rich and complex history of the area, which is summarised in this booklet.

Front cover: ‘A view of Manchester from Kersal Moor’, by William Wyld in 1852. In 1851 Wyld’s admirer Queen Victoria commissioned paintings of Liverpool and Manchester to celebrate her visit there. Back cover: (left) Archaeological excavation in progress at Castle Irwell; (right) riding Fury Royal in the final race to be held at the Castle Irwell Racecourse in 1963 (courtesy of Chris Pitt)

ISBN 978-0-9933041-4-9 £5.00

© Salford Archaeology 2018