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Home , Culture of Turkey, Etli ekmek, Halva, Kibbeh, Lahmacun, Lokma

AYDIN GASTRONOMY, 2021, 5 (2), 167 - 176 Derleme/ Review different temperature-time combinations on Sebastia, C., Soriano, J.M., Iranzo, M., physicochemical, microbiological, textural Rico, H. (2009). Microbiological quality of Traditional Anatolian Ceremonial Dishes and structural features of sous-vide cooked sous vide cook-chill preserved at lamb loins. Meat Science, 93, 572-578. different shelf life. Journal of Food Processing and Preservation, 34, 964-974. Rondanelli, M., Daglia, M., Silvia, M., Nuray GÜZELER DiLorenzo, A., Gabriella, P., Faliva, M.A., This, H. (2017). Moleküler gastronomi Cukurova University, Faculty of Agriculture Perna, S. (2017). Nutritional advantages of bilimsel bir disiplin, NbN mutfak bir sonraki sous-vide cooking compared to boiling on mutfak eğilimidir. (Çev. Ş. Demirkol ve İ. Food Engineering Department, cereals and legumes: Determination of ashes Çiftçi). : Turizm Aşamaları Dergisi, [email protected] and metal content in ready to eat products. 28(2), 304-314. ORCID: 0000-0001-5246-2491 Food Science & Nutrition, 5, 827-833. Wan, J., Cao, A., Cai, L. (2019). Effects of Ruiz-Carrascal, J., Roldan, M., Refolio, F., vacuum or sous-vide cooking methods on the Çağla ÖZBEK Perez-Palacios & T., Antequera, T. (2019). quality of large mouthbass (Micropterus Sous vide cooking of meat: Maillard salmodies). International Journal of Toros University approach. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science,18,100181. Vocational School Department of Food Technology, Mersin Gastronomy and Food Science, 16,100168. doi:10.1016/j.ijgfs.2019.100181 [email protected] Yıldız, M., Yılmaz, M. (2020). Türkçe ORCID: 0000-0002-3577-1599 alanyazında sous vide yöntemi. Journal of

Tourism and Gastronomy Studies, 8 (3), 2318-2336. Geliş tarihi/Received: 20.01.2021 Kabul tarihi / Accepted: 13.04.2021

Abstract Cuisine has developed by its environment and combined with the characteristics of different cultures to form the rich food culture of today. On the other hand, traditions, religious beliefs and lifestyle with a structure that enriches the culinary culture of . Birth, marriage, death and other special days related to these events have very important place in the traditions of Turks and these days have influenced the culinary culture. They carry out many social functions such as bringing people together, strengthening social ties, reinforcing common values, keeping traditions alive and transferring them to future generations. The meals served during realization of these activities constitute the basis for culinary cultures which are among the important cultural elements. In this research, the traditions carried from past to present, the customs applied in the ceremonies such as birth, wedding and death and the food culture specific to these days in Anatolia were compiled. Keywords: Anatolian dishes, birth ceremonies, death ceremonies, wedding ceremonies

DOI NO: 10.17932/IAU.GASTRONOMY.2017.016/gastronomy_v05i2007

167 Traditional Anatolian Ceremonial Dishes

Geleneksel Anadolu Tören Yemekleri Öz Türk Mutfağı, çevresel etkilere bağlı olarak gelişmeye devam etmekte ve farklı kültürlerin özellikleriyle birleşerek günümüzün zengin yemek kültürünü oluşturmaktadır. Öte yandan gelenekler, dini inançlar ve yaşam tarzı Türkiye’nin mutfak kültürünü zenginleştiren etkenlerdendir. Doğum, evlilik, ölüm ve diğer özel günler Türklerin geleneklerinde çok önemli bir yere sahiptir ve Türk mutfak kültürünü etkilemiştir. Bu özel günler insanları bir araya getirmek, sosyal bağları güçlendirmek, ortak değerleri pekiştirmek, gelenekleri yaşatmak ve gelecek nesillere aktarmak gibi pek çok sosyal işlevi yerine getirmektedir. Bu faaliyetlerin gerçekleştirilmesi sırasında sunulan yemekler, önemli kültürel ögeler arasında yer alan mutfak kültürlerinin temelini oluşturmaktadır. Bu araştırmada geçmişten günümüze taşınan gelenekler, doğum, düğün, ölüm gibi törenlerde uygulanan örf ve adetler ve Anadolu’da bu günlere özgü yemek kültürü derlenmiştir. Anahtar Kelimeler: Anadolu yemekleri, doğum törenleri, cenaze törenleri, düğü törenleri

Introduction As a historical part of societies, the which is an important phenomenon of food, which carries the element of Turkish cultural life; it is also one accumulation and diversity of centuries, of the few most famous cuisines in the world appears as a part of cultural patterns rather (Sürücüoğlu and Özçelik, 2008). Turkish than just an act of saturating the abdomen. In cuisine has been developed with the influence this context, food is one of the basic facts of of various cultures established in Central ceremonies such as religious ceremonies, Asia and Anatolia for centuries and today it weddings, entertainments, funerals, festivals has taken its place among the most famous and many social behaviors (Sağır, 2012). cuisines of the world with its rich food are offered for many different variety, food preparation, storage and purposes in communities such as banquets cooking methods and service manner and festivals as a means of entertainment, (Büyüktuncer and Yücecan, 2009). In ceremonies and gifts (Çapar and Yenipınar, general, Turkish cuisine consisting of cereals, 2016). Turkish food has changed according meat, meals prepared with some meat and to special days and ceremonies since history various types of vegetables, soups, dishes (Solmaz and Dülger Altıner, 2018). with oil, , drinks, and The tradition of eating together is quite herbs; it has revealed its own healthy food common among Turks. Collectively with types such as molasses, , and ceremonies, feasts, eating is a common (Sürücüoğlu and Özçelik, 2008). tradition in the history of the Turks (Birer, 1990). Special day meals are the meals that

168 Nuray GÜZELER, Çağla ÖZBEK

Geleneksel Anadolu Tören Yemekleri the Turks have been eating since the days pregnancy period and to perform the before the adoption of Islam, which they have procedures required by the customs (Artun, Öz continued in the traditional way (Yalçın 2001). Birth ceremonies vary from region to Türk Mutfağı, çevresel etkilere bağlı olarak gelişmeye devam etmekte ve farklı kültürlerin Çelik, 2010). The ceremonies of Turks can be region. özellikleriyle birleşerek günümüzün zengin yemek kültürünü oluşturmaktadır. Öte yandan gathered under religious, social and personal When the newborn baby is visited throughout gelenekler, dini inançlar ve yaşam tarzı Türkiye’nin mutfak kültürünü zenginleştiren titles. In these ceremonies, eating and the Anatolia, the “Lohusa sherbet” is served. etkenlerdendir. Doğum, evlilik, ölüm ve diğer özel günler Türklerin geleneklerinde çok önemli bir feasting are intertwined. With these or chicken and alongside the yere sahiptir ve Türk mutfak kültürünü etkilemiştir. Bu özel günler insanları bir araya getirmek, ceremonies, a special culinary culture Lohusa sherbet are treated to guests. In the sosyal bağları güçlendirmek, ortak değerleri pekiştirmek, gelenekleri yaşatmak ve gelecek emerged. There are three major transitional same way, it is a long tradition to offer nesillere aktarmak gibi pek çok sosyal işlevi yerine getirmektedir. Bu faaliyetlerin periods of human life. These are birth, “hedik” which is boiled wheat when the gerçekleştirilmesi sırasında sunulan yemekler, önemli kültürel ögeler arasında yer alan mutfak marriage and death (Artun, 2001). Yusuf Has baby's first tooth comes out (Güler, 2010). kültürlerinin temelini oluşturmaktadır. Bu araştırmada geçmişten günümüze taşınan gelenekler, Hacib specified in Kutadgu Bilig there are doğum, düğün, ölüm gibi törenlerde uygulanan örf ve adetler ve Anadolu’da bu günlere özgü some of the feasts as a kind of banquet of XI. In Çukurova region, for a good nutrition of a yemek kültürü derlenmiştir. century. Some of these dishes are known as woman who has just given birth, a food called “Yağlı-Ballı” is made to get plenty of breast Anahtar Kelimeler: Anadolu yemekleri, doğum törenleri, cenaze törenleri, düğü törenleri küdenke aş (wedding meal), togum meal (birth meal) and yoga meal (funeral meal) milk. For this purpose, molasses is poured (Sandıkçıoğlu et al., 2019). During the time into oil is burned, red pepper is sprinkled on from birth to death, food and beverages it. Liver salad is another ceremony meal. Introduction As a historical part of societies, the served in ceremonies, religious or social Salad is made from liver and cooked phenomenon of food, which carries the Turkish cuisine which is an important festivals related to people's special days are in embers is fed to the puerpera. Kaynar: accumulation and diversity of centuries, element of Turkish cultural life; it is also one applied as if they were subject to a rule in Until the fourth day of the woman giving appears as a part of cultural patterns rather of the few most famous cuisines in the world Anatolia (Güler, 2010). For example, it is birth, Kaynar is served the puerpera and than just an act of saturating the abdomen. In (Sürücüoğlu and Özçelik, 2008). Turkish stated that Keşkek is one of the most guests. Seven types of spices such as this context, food is one of the basic facts of cuisine has been developed with the influence important meal types which is consumed in , , , allspice are boiled ceremonies such as religious ceremonies, of various cultures established in Central all transition period ceremonies (Çekiç, for Kaynar. and cinnamon are weddings, entertainments, funerals, festivals Asia and Anatolia for centuries and today it 2015). It is written that pilafs, Boranis, , sprinkled on Kaynar before serving. Yakı: It and many social behaviors (Sağır, 2012). has taken its place among the most famous , Helise, as well as sherbets, soups, is made to increase breast milk. Yakı is a Foods are offered for many different cuisines of the world with its rich food Tutmaç, , slurry, and vegetable slurry of molasses mixture with oil, or purposes in communities such as banquets variety, food preparation, storage and dishes, and Kadayif desserts were . Sugared Wheat: Wheat is roasted, and festivals as a means of entertainment, cooking methods and service manner given in the ceremonies held during the beaten, sugar is added. It is prepared for the ceremonies and gifts (Çapar and Yenipınar, (Büyüktuncer and Yücecan, 2009). In Seljuk and Anatolian Principalities (Akın, puerperium. Hedik: It is boiled for the first 2016). Turkish food has changed according general, Turkish cuisine consisting of cereals, Gültekin and Özkoçak, 2015). In this study, tooth of the baby. Hedik is obtained by to special days and ceremonies since history meat, meals prepared with some meat and foods prepared at birth, wedding and funeral boiling wheat, and (Artun, (Solmaz and Dülger Altıner, 2018). various types of vegetables, soups, dishes ceremonies and food culture in Anatolia were 2001). with , pastries, drinks, desserts and The tradition of eating together is quite examined. Birth ceremonies are celebrated in Mengen herbs; it has revealed its own healthy food common among Turks. Collectively with Birth Ceremonies which is in the region in a very types such as molasses, yogurt, tarhana and ceremonies, feasts, eating is a common simple way. Birth is considered a reality of Beliefs and traditions compel people to bulgur (Sürücüoğlu and Özçelik, 2008). tradition in the history of the Turks (Birer, life. While going to visit the woman who follow certain customs starting from the pre- 1990). Special day meals are the meals that gave birth, especially milk, milk soup,

AYDIN GASTRONOMY, 5 (2), 167 - 176, 2021 169 Traditional Anatolian Ceremonial Dishes sherbet, delight or egg is brought as a gift to In , Hatay, the woman who gives strengthen the woman and to abound of birth is offered a variety of foods. The goal is breast milk. If the person's economic to provide breast milk for the mother that the situation is good, after the birth, dinner baby needs and to heal itself biologically. In accompanied with prayer is organized for some regions, meat is served for milk to come quests (Yalçın Çelik, 2010). in, in some regions is given. In Ilgın, , in the Central Anatolia is distributed to the neighborhood when the region, melted butter with sugar is given to child is born. The dessert, which is also woman who gave birth in order to heal her served to those who visit the baby, is an wound. Previously, water was not given to important way to share the happiness of the the puerpera for three days after birth. Dried family with everyone (Türk and Şahin, 2014). figs were served puerpera to increase breast In Bingöl, there are some celebrations for milk secretion. Also, Paluze prepared by newborns. On the seventh day of birth, meals, cooking with water and pouring pastries, grapes, appetizers and fruits are water, Hira soup and Lohusa sherbet had prepared if the child is male. After the child's served her. When the baby's first tooth comes tooth comes out, a meal called “Hedik” out, a meal called Gölle is prepared. Wheat consisting of wheat and chickpeas is made. and chickpeas are thoroughly cooked. It was Neighbors and relatives are invited to the reported that when the wheat was boiled in house. Guests bring gifts to the baby and the village of Eldeş, hemp was also put in it. mother. When the child pulls teeth, wheat Poppy seeds, and peanut are sprinkled grains are poured over the head for getting the on Gölle. Guests who eat Gölle, put gifts such child's teeth intact (Irmak, 2016). as beads and money into the plate (Işık, Wedding Ceremonies Kılıçarslan, Güldemir, Önay Derin and Barı, 2017). Giving food during the wedding ceremony has special importance in Turkish Culinary In Nevşehir, after the birth, various nutrients Culture. In the past, the wedding owner are given to the woman to heal the wounds offered meals to the guests coming to their and provide plenty of breast milk. The home, nowadays people have begun to have neighbors go to visit the puerpera by making dinner at the wedding ceremonies. It is seen such dishes. A sweet soup called that this situation continues in both forms soup is drunk. Sweet foods such as walnuts, (Güler, 2010; Özen and Adar, 2020). raisins, honey slurries, halva and Lokum are Wedding meals in Anatolia, where special served. For increasing of breast milk dishes are served during weddings, vary due production, bulgur soup, sherbet and apricot to the different local products grown in the paste are fed with juicy food. Cold drinks are regions. They are generally held as lunches avoided. Meals are served with bread and tea but may be also organized as dinner in some (Güldemir and Işık, 2011). regions (Ceyhun Sezgin and Onur, 2017). The most important feature of the wedding

170 Nuray GÜZELER, Çağla ÖZBEK sherbet, delight or egg is brought as a gift to In Antakya, Hatay, the woman who gives ceremonies is that they are prepared and dishes given at these ceremonies are Tirit, strengthen the woman and to abound of birth is offered a variety of foods. The goal is presented as banquet tables. Therefore, , bulgur , vegetable dish and okra, breast milk. If the person's economic to provide breast milk for the mother that the regardless of the financial situation of the respectively. The compote is served after situation is good, after the birth, dinner baby needs and to heal itself biologically. In person, these ceremonies and dinners must be these meals (Çakıcı and Zencir, 2018). held with a standard. Whatever the cost and accompanied with prayer is organized for some regions, meat is served for milk to come In Çukurova region, wedding bread is cooked burden of the person, tradition continues quests (Yalçın Çelik, 2010). in, in some regions dessert is given. Baklava before the wedding. “Yüksük soup” is (Yalçın Çelik, 2010). In Ilgın, Konya, in the Central Anatolia is distributed to the neighborhood when the consumed as beginner at wedding meals. In child is born. The dessert, which is also region, melted butter with sugar is given to Generally, in Anatolian weddings, the meal order to prepare Yüksük soup, have woman who gave birth in order to heal her served to those who visit the baby, is an which starts with soups such as Yüksük or been kneaded in large bowls, a group of wound. Previously, water was not given to important way to share the happiness of the Düğün soup, continues with the catering of women roll out until obtaining a flat , the puerpera for three days after birth. Dried family with everyone (Türk and Şahin, 2014). various combinations of dishes such as then cut into pieces in a size called figs were served puerpera to increase breast In Bingöl, there are some celebrations for keskek, with meat, pepper stuffed “mantı” in Turkish, and another group close milk secretion. Also, Paluze prepared by newborns. On the seventh day of birth, meals, with meat, rice with chicken, rice with the . In large boilers, dumplings cooking starch with water and pouring rose pastries, grapes, appetizers and fruits are chickpea and Cacık, and ends with desserts are poured into boiled water, after cooking water, Hira soup and Lohusa sherbet had prepared if the child is male. After the child's such as Baklava, flour or halva process plenty of oil with paste and served her. When the baby's first tooth comes tooth comes out, a meal called “Hedik” prepared at home (Ceyhun Sezgin and Onur, mint is added. If desired, chickpeas are put in out, a meal called Gölle is prepared. Wheat consisting of wheat and chickpeas is made. 2017). the soup and squeeze the lemon. One of the and chickpeas are thoroughly cooked. It was Neighbors and relatives are invited to the It was stated that in past wedding events in most popular dishes for wedding meals is reported that when the wheat was boiled in house. Guests bring gifts to the baby and the , firstly, on the day of “Ekşili köfte”. Small meatballs are made the village of Eldeş, hemp was also put in it. mother. When the child pulls teeth, wheat promise, börek was made and honey or after kneading and fining the wheat. Poppy seeds, walnut and peanut are sprinkled grains are poured over the head for getting the halva was put on it that means "eat dessert Dumplings are thrown into boiled water with on Gölle. Guests who eat Gölle, put gifts such child's teeth intact (Irmak, 2016). and talk sweetly". It was stated that the chickpeas. After the meatballs are cooked, as beads and money into the plate (Işık, the fried , oil and paste are poured, Wedding Ceremonies sherbet made by adding water to sugar and Kılıçarslan, Güldemir, Önay Derin and Barı, use for sweetening was first served to sour, dried mint and spices are Giving food during the wedding ceremony 2017). those who came to the bride's house. It was added. Pilaf with wheat and meat, beans with has special importance in Turkish Culinary meat, bulgur pilaf or rice pilaf, stuffed In Nevşehir, after the birth, various nutrients indicated that all the meals at the wedding Culture. In the past, the wedding owner , and leaf wrap dishes made event were served as a row meal. Meals are are given to the woman to heal the wounds offered meals to the guests coming to their served according to a certain order called on the wedding day are called “Davul Aşı”. and provide plenty of breast milk. The home, nowadays people have begun to have "row meal" in feasts. Various numbers of Lastly, “Gelin Tatarı” is a kind of ravioli neighbors go to visit the puerpera by making dinner at the wedding ceremonies. It is seen dishes are served in order, depending on the cooked on the wedding day (Artun, 2001). such dishes. A sweet soup called almond that this situation continues in both forms nature of the invitation. After eating the meal In Anamur, Mersin, the groom and his family soup is drunk. Sweet foods such as walnuts, (Güler, 2010; Özen and Adar, 2020). in the same bowl, other dishes come slaughtered a goat called “soğuş” in the raisins, honey slurries, halva and Lokum are Wedding meals in Anatolia, where special according to the order system. First, the mouth of the region. In addition to the whole served. For increasing of breast milk dishes are served during weddings, vary due whole börek is put on the table, then a gap in meat, millet rice (Darı döğmesi) and keskek production, bulgur soup, sherbet and apricot to the different local products grown in the the size of the plate is opened in the middle are made and they are also sent to the bride’s paste are fed with juicy food. Cold drinks are regions. They are generally held as lunches of the börek and the dishes are eaten by family. This meat is split into pieces in the avoided. Meals are served with bread and tea but may be also organized as dinner in some putting it in this gap. The soup, usually girl's house and served to the guests (Erdem (Güldemir and Işık, 2011). regions (Ceyhun Sezgin and Onur, 2017). Tarhana soup, is served first for dinner. Main Nas, 2015). The most important feature of the wedding

AYDIN GASTRONOMY, 5 (2), 167 - 176, 2021 171 Traditional Anatolian Ceremonial Dishes

In Erzincan, banquet tables consisting of two engagement and wedding, halva / bite for the different combinations are prepared for dead) (Yalçın Çelik, 2010; Ceyhun Sezgin wedding dinners. The first menu is prepared and Onur, 2017). with splash soup, babukko and compote, and Wedding meals in Konya are usually served the other menu is prepared with okra, stuffed in the garden, at round table for 10 people or grape leaf, grape paste, compote, rice, , on ground tables. When the table is filled by Sarı burma, Baklava, , stuffed lamb and the guests, first a round of 90 grams of bread rib (Ceyhun Sezgin and Onur, 2017). and a spoon and fork are distributed for ten In Midyat, the bride's mother prepares the people. Then the soup with yogurt is placed first breakfast for the next day of wedding in a large bowl (for ten people). At the end of and sends it to the groom's house. In this the soup, rice with meat, semolina halva, okra breakfast table; special meals which are soup, Zerde and cherry are served, peculiar to Midyat such as , respectively. If a type of meal is liked stuffed lamb, Şambörek, Dobo, , Aya (usually rice with meat), the service is köfte, Sembusek are present. The household repeated. The wedding dinner list given here starts to eat after the bride and groom tasting is considered standard for moderate families. of dishes (Eroğlu and Sarıca, 2012; Toprak, Depending on the economic situation, Su Çelikel Güngör and Gürbüz, 2018). böreği (patty), stuffed grape leaves can be It is stated that in Tokat province, which is added to the menu (Bodur, Güler and Akman, located in the Black Sea region, the wedding 1996). dinner is prepared in cooperation with the Funerals neighbors and the bride's dowry goods are Food is a social practice where entertainment moved to the wedding dinner. The meal, and the joy of life are maximized with a which is described as a wedding dinner in passion for pleasure. Death, on the contrary, Tokat, is given to those who come to the is a vital loss in which sadness and pain are wedding owner's house. These dishes are maximized. The common point is that both usually Düğün soup, stuffed vegetables with phenomena have characteristics that meat, rice with meat and flour halva (Sağır, dynamically structure the social sphere. 2012). People come together and in this meeting the The Mengen folk cuisine in the Black Sea sharing is maximized (Sağır, 2016). region has an invariable menu for All over Anatolia, it is a tradition to give food engagement, wedding and funeral dishes. to guests during religious ceremonies. This This menu includes soup (Toygar, keşkek meal is served to relatives, friends, funerals and lark ), meat roasting (Tas and neighbors both on the day of the /potatoes with meat), vegetable food deceased's funeral, and usually on the 40th (green beans/eggplant / dried okra), rice day of death (Güler, 2010). Serenity prevails (plain butter//inner rice), pastry, salad, in the collective funeral dinners. Death comes compote and dessert (baklava for

172 Nuray GÜZELER, Çağla ÖZBEK

In Erzincan, banquet tables consisting of two engagement and wedding, halva / bite for the at an unexpected time. For this reason, the In Çukurova region, halvah is made at the 3rd different combinations are prepared for dead) (Yalçın Çelik, 2010; Ceyhun Sezgin host is protected and watched by the day of the death and it is served to guests. At wedding dinners. The first menu is prepared and Onur, 2017). neighbors while preparing the funeral dinner. the 7th day of the death, those with good For example, while weddings special cooks economic status, serves meat wrapped in with splash soup, babukko and compote, and Wedding meals in Konya are usually served are hired, the principle of volunteering is yufka to guests. Some people give the other menu is prepared with okra, stuffed in the garden, at round table for 10 people or essential here. Usually, there are kitchen and or wheat soup at these ceremonies. Today, grape leaf, grape paste, compote, rice, pastry, on ground tables. When the table is filled by dining hall in the mosque in the village. The food companies are also given food by Sarı burma, Baklava, Zerde, stuffed lamb and the guests, first a round of 90 grams of bread rib (Ceyhun Sezgin and Onur, 2017). and a spoon and fork are distributed for ten dishes are cooked and eaten here. Men and ordering meals. Sometimes Aşure is served women eat the meal separately. For those the guests at these ceremonies (Artun, 2001). In Midyat, the bride's mother prepares the people. Then the soup with yogurt is placed who are too sick, old and painful to go to the first breakfast for the next day of wedding in a large bowl (for ten people). At the end of In Anamur, Mersin, the funerals are quite mosque in the village square to eat, meals are and sends it to the groom's house. In this the soup, rice with meat, semolina halva, okra crowded, but the first three days are very sent to the houses with pots (Yalçın Çelik, breakfast table; special meals which are soup, Zerde and cherry syrup are served, important. In the funeral home, “dibek” is 2010). peculiar to Midyat such as stuffed ribs, respectively. If a type of meal is liked beaten and keskek, beans and rice are cooked In the pre-Islamic period, the funeral of Turks stuffed lamb, Şambörek, Dobo, kibbeh, Aya (usually rice with meat), the service is in the boilers and served to the people who is called “yog” or “yug”. It is known that köfte, Sembusek are present. The household repeated. The wedding dinner list given here come to condolence. The aforementioned Kaşgarlı Mahmud used it in Divanü Lûgat-it starts to eat after the bride and groom tasting is considered standard for moderate families. cooking is not performed by the host. It is Türk as a meal given on 3rd th of dishes (Eroğlu and Sarıca, 2012; Toprak, Depending on the economic situation, Su day or 7 day made by relatives, friends and neighbors. after being buried dead. This tradition Çelikel Güngör and Gürbüz, 2018). böreği (patty), stuffed grape leaves can be Everyone coming to condolence will support continued in the post-Islamic period. In these the family who lost their relatives by bringing It is stated that in Tokat province, which is added to the menu (Bodur, Güler and Akman, ceremonies, a variety of foods are offered to various meals to the condolence house for located in the Black Sea region, the wedding 1996). restore the soul of the deceased. Although the about a month. At the condolence house, the dinner is prepared in cooperation with the Funerals food distributed during the funerals varies same meals are cooked for three days. On the neighbors and the bride's dowry goods are Food is a social practice where entertainment according to the region, it usually consists of 40th day, tea, biscuits or chocolates are served moved to the wedding dinner. The meal, and the joy of life are maximized with a food types intended to satisfy the which is described as a wedding dinner in with the meal. On the fifty second day of the passion for pleasure. Death, on the contrary, participants. These meals are also served on dead, “Bişi” is made and distributed. On the Tokat, is given to those who come to the rd th th th nd is a vital loss in which sadness and pain are certain days (3 , 7 , 20 , 40 , 52 and the anniversary, tea, biscuits, sometimes meals wedding owner's house. These dishes are 1st anniversary) (Bayat and Cicioğlu, 2008). maximized. The common point is that both or “Batırık” are served to people who come usually Düğün soup, stuffed vegetables with This dish has been practiced in different ways phenomena have characteristics that (Erdem Nas, 2015). meat, rice with meat and flour halva (Sağır, dynamically structure the social sphere. both in Anatolia and in the geographies of In Konya Ilgın, neighbors and relatives bring 2012). People come together and in this meeting the Turkish culture (Sağır, 2012). food to the funeral home. There is no cooking The Mengen folk cuisine in the Black Sea sharing is maximized (Sağır, 2016). The tradition of distributing halvah apart at home for a week to a month depending on region has an invariable menu for All over Anatolia, it is a tradition to give food from food on certain days is a practice that the situation. In the past, on the day of the engagement, wedding and funeral dishes. to guests during religious ceremonies. This exists in many Turkish communities as in funeral, the neighbors used to bring breakfast This menu includes soup (Toygar, keşkek meal is served to relatives, friends, funerals many regions of Anatolia today (Bayat and foods. Nowadays, the host gives bread with and lark lentils), meat roasting (Tas and neighbors both on the day of the Cicioğlu, 2008). On the anniversary of the meat (“”) to those who return kebab/potatoes with meat), vegetable food th death, halva is distributed in some places as deceased's funeral, and usually on the 40 from the funeral. On the third day, the (green beans/eggplant / dried okra), rice day of death (Güler, 2010). Serenity prevails well as preparing “” in some places, called as “Pişi” is made and distributed. On (plain butter/noodle/inner rice), pastry, salad, in the collective funeral dinners. Death comes and in some places, it is seen that mevlits with the seventh day, Yasin-i Şerif is read and compote and dessert (baklava for meals or sugar are made (Sağır, 2012).

AYDIN GASTRONOMY, 5 (2), 167 - 176, 2021 173 Traditional Anatolian Ceremonial Dishes food is given. On the fortieth day, flour halva according to the regions, it has been or meal is given. Giving food is called as determined that they are generally more “Ekmek dökme”. On the fifty-second day, the labor-intense and attentively prepared meals. mevlit is read, dinner is given as the wedding For funerals, it was determined that dishes (Işık et al., 2017). that take a shorter time to cook and are easier In Antakya, there are various practices to distribute were made. related to death. At the first 3 days or 7 days, The Turkish cuisine culture, which has its nobody cooks in the dead house, the stove roots in ancient times, has its rich resources does not burn. The family's friends, relatives due to the spreading to a wide geography and and neighbors bring food to the funeral home is rich in diversity, is among the world's as a sign of sharing pain. There are various largest cuisines. Observations on Turkish traditions on the 7th, 40th, 50th and 52nd days culinary culture in recent years, it can be said of death. Some people sacrifice an animal and that there are problems in transferring this prepare food on the 7th day. This is called the cultural heritage from the past to new 7th day dinner. On the 40th day, an animal is generations. Although Turkish culinary sacrificed, Lokum, halva and Lahmacun are culture has a rich content and diversity, the shared with people. On the 50th day, food is components of this culture are being prepared, or halva is distributed. On the 52nd forgotten day by day. Both the globalizing day, Lokum and biscuits are distributed. As eating habits and the conditions of modern can be seen, there are many differences in the life lead to the loss of some traditional habits. construction of the memorial days. The For this reason, it is important to carry out reason for this is the religious and cultural various studies to protect local elements and richness and diversity of Antakya (Türk and to transfer them to future generations. Şahin, 2014). Against too rapidly changing of our cuisine with the process of social change, we should Conclusion try not to lose the traditional rituals, It is an important and special activity for ceremonies, habits, etc., to conserve them and Turks coming together and eating on special to improve them in terms of tourism. days. It has been determined that the meals prepared especially for births, weddings and References funeral ceremonies have similar Akın, G., Gültekin, T., Özkoçak, V. (2015). Geçmişten günümüze geleneksel Anadolu characteristics in themselves. It has been seen mutfak kültürünün gelişimi [Development that the foods prepared and served for birth and features of traditional Anatolian culinary ceremonies are mostly rich in carbohydrates. culture]. Antropoloji Dergisi, 30, 33-53. This situation is thought to be related to the high energy need of the puerpera. Among the Artun, E. (2001). Adana'da, törenlere, public, these foods are believed to increase adaklara, özel günlere ait inançlar, pratikler breast milk. Although the dishes prepared and ve bunlara bağlı mutfak kültürü. Milli served at wedding ceremonies differ Folklor, 13(49), 7-37.

174 Nuray GÜZELER, Çağla ÖZBEK food is given. On the fortieth day, flour halva according to the regions, it has been Bayat, F., Cicioğlu, M.N. (2008). Türklerde industry]. Journal of Tourism and or meal is given. Giving food is called as determined that they are generally more cenaze törenleri bağlamında mevlid okuma Gastronomy Studies, 4(Special issue 1), 100- “Ekmek dökme”. On the fifty-second day, the labor-intense and attentively prepared meals. geleneği [Mevlid in the context of funeral 115. mevlit is read, dinner is given as the wedding For funerals, it was determined that dishes ceremonies in Turkic culture]. Sosyal Çekiç, İ. (2015). Geçmişten günümüze Bilimler Dergisi, 19, 147-155. (Işık et al., 2017). that take a shorter time to cook and are easier törensel bir yemek: Keşkek. Master Science to distribute were made. In Antakya, there are various practices Birer, S. (1990). Türk mutfağının tarihsel Thesis, University Gastronomy related to death. At the first 3 days or 7 days, The Turkish cuisine culture, which has its gelişim süreci içerisindeki değişimi ve and Kitchen Arts Departments, Gaziantep, nobody cooks in the dead house, the stove roots in ancient times, has its rich resources bugünkü durumu. Beslenme ve Diyet Dergisi, p.76. does not burn. The family's friends, relatives due to the spreading to a wide geography and 19(2), 251-260. Erdem Nas, G. (2015). Yörük kültüründe and neighbors bring food to the funeral home is rich in diversity, is among the world's Bodur, S., Güler, S., Akman, M. (1996). düğün-ölüm adetleri ve adlandırmaları as a sign of sharing pain. There are various largest cuisines. Observations on Turkish Konya düğün yemeği üzerine bir çalışma [A (Anamur Örneği) [Wedding - funeral traditions on the 7th, 40th, 50th and 52nd days culinary culture in recent years, it can be said study on feast meals in Konya]. Beslenme ve customs and their naming in Yoruk culture of death. Some people sacrifice an animal and that there are problems in transferring this Diyet Dergisi, 25(2), 38-40. (Case of Anamur)]. Journal of Turkish prepare food on the 7th day. This is called the cultural heritage from the past to new Language and Literature, 1(2), 25-32. 7th day dinner. On the 40th day, an animal is generations. Although Turkish culinary Büyüktuncer, Z., Yücecan, S. (2009). Türk sacrificed, Lokum, halva and Lahmacun are culture has a rich content and diversity, the mutfağının beslenme ve sağlık açısından Eroğlu, E., Sarıca, N. (2012). Midyat shared with people. On the 50th day, food is components of this culture are being değerlendirilmesi [Nutrition and health Süryanilerinin düğün gelenekleri [The prepared, or halva is distributed. On the 52nd forgotten day by day. Both the globalizing evaluation of Turkish cuisine]. Beslenme ve wedding traditions of Assyrians in Midyat]. day, Lokum and biscuits are distributed. As eating habits and the conditions of modern Diyet Dergisi, 37(1-2), 93-100. Turkish Studies International Periodical For the Languages, Literature and History of can be seen, there are many differences in the life lead to the loss of some traditional habits. Ceyhun Sezgin, A., Onur, M. (2017). construction of the memorial days. The For this reason, it is important to carry out Kültür mirası düğün yemeklerinin Turkish or Turkic, 7(3), 1189-1199. reason for this is the religious and cultural various studies to protect local elements and gastronomi turizmi açısından Güldemir, O., Işık, N. (2011). Nevşehir richness and diversity of Antakya (Türk and to transfer them to future generations. incelenmesi: Erzincan ili örneği [The mutfak kültürü ve yemekleri. I. Uluslararası Şahin, 2014). Against too rapidly changing of our cuisine investigation of cultural heritage wedding Nevşehir Tarih ve Kültür Sempozyumu, 16- with the process of social change, we should Conclusion dishes in gastronomy tourism: The sample of 19 November, Nevşehir, p.151-177. try not to lose the traditional rituals, Erzincan city]. Erzincan Üniversitesi Sosyal It is an important and special activity for Güler, S. (2010). Türk mutfak kültürü ve ceremonies, habits, etc., to conserve them and Bilimler Enstitüsü Dergisi, ÖS-IV, 203-214. yeme içme alışkanlıkları [Turkish kitchen Turks coming together and eating on special to improve them in terms of tourism. days. It has been determined that the meals Çakıcı, H.H., Zencir, E. (2018). culture and eating and drinking habits]. prepared especially for births, weddings and References Unutulmaya yüz tutmuş mutfak kültürleri: Dumlupınar Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler funeral ceremonies have similar Akın, G., Gültekin, T., Özkoçak, V. (2015). Çakırözü Köyü örneği [Cuisine cultures sunk Dergisi, 26, 24-30. Geçmişten günümüze geleneksel Anadolu into oblivion: example of Çakırözü Village]. characteristics in themselves. It has been seen Irmak, Y. (2016). Doğumdan ölüme Bingöl mutfak kültürünün gelişimi [Development Journal of Tourism and Gastronomy Studies, that the foods prepared and served for birth geçiş dönemleri inanç ve uygulamaları and features of traditional Anatolian culinary 6(Special issue 3), 285-297. ceremonies are mostly rich in carbohydrates. [Beliefs and practices in Bingöl during the culture]. Antropoloji Dergisi, 30, 33-53. This situation is thought to be related to the Çapar, G., Yenipınar, U. (2016). Somut transition periods from birth to death]. Bingöl high energy need of the puerpera. Among the Artun, E. (2001). Adana'da, törenlere, olmayan kültürel miras kaynağı olarak Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü public, these foods are believed to increase adaklara, özel günlere ait inançlar, pratikler yöresel yiyeceklerin turizm endüstrisinde Dergisi, 6(11), 113-132. breast milk. Although the dishes prepared and ve bunlara bağlı mutfak kültürü. Milli kullanılması [Use of local food as a source of served at wedding ceremonies differ Folklor, 13(49), 7-37. intangiable cultural heritage in tourism

AYDIN GASTRONOMY, 5 (2), 167 - 176, 2021 175 Traditional Anatolian Ceremonial Dishes

Işık, N., Kılıçarslan, A., Güldemir, O., Solmaz, Y., Dülger Altıner, D. (2018). Türk Önay Derin, D., Barı, N. (2017). Ilgın mutfak kültürü ve beslenme alışkanlıkları mutfak kültürü ve yemekleri [Ilgın cuisine üzerine bir değerlendirme [Evaluation of and foods]. Selçuk Üniversitesi Sosyal Turkish cuisine and dietary habits]. Safran Bilimler Enstitüsü Dergisi, (38), 86-94. Kültür ve Turizm Araştırmaları Dergisi, 1(3), 108-124. Özen, A., Adar, Ç. (2020). Somut Olmayan Kültürel Miraslarımızın Korunmasında Sürücüoğlu, M.S., Özçelik, A.Ö. (2008). Düğün Gelenekleri; Dodurga Düğünleri Türk Mutfak Ve Beslenme Kültürünün [Wedding Traditions In The Conservation Of Tarihsel Gelişimi. 38. Icanas Kongresi, 10-15 Our Intangible Cultural Heritages; Dodurga Eylül, , 1289-1310. Weddings]. Journal of Social and Toprak, L., Çelikel Güngör, A., Gürbüz, S. Humanities Sciences Research, 59: 2602- (2018). Yerel yemekler: Mardin örneği. 2617. Anadolu I. Uluslararası Multidisipliner Sağır, A. (2012). Bir yemek sosyolojisi Çalışmalar Kongresi, 28-29 Aralık, denemesi örneği olarak Tokat mutfağı [As a Diyarbakır, p.711-714. case of sociology of food Tokat cuisine]. Türk, H., Şahin, K. (2014). Antakya International Periodical For The Languages, geleneksel yemek kültürü [ Literature and History of Turkish or Turkic, culture of Antakya]. Mustafa Kemal 7(4), 2675-2695. Üniversitesi Sosyal Bilimler Enstitüsü Sağır, A. (2016). Ölüm sosyolojisi Dergisi, 1(2). bağlamında yemek, cenaze ve ölümün sofra https://dergipark.org.tr/tr/download/article- pratikleri üzerine [Food, funeral and death of file/183214 dining practices the context of death Yalçın Çelik, D. (2010). Mengen’de özel sociology]. Türkiye Sosyal Araştırmalar gün yemekleri [Feast for special days in Dergisi, 20 (1), 271-298. Mengen]. Millî Folklor, 22(86), 127-139. Sandıkçıoğlu, T., Şahin, H., Başaran, V., Güldemir, O., Samancı, Ö., Soner, F., Dündar Arıkan, A. (2019). Türk Mutfak Kültürü. Anadolu Üniversitesi Yayını No: 3286.

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