Types of laminates and coatings There are several types of laminates that will resist moisture. All are applied to lightweight fabrics. The designer is dependent on the

R e e mill for specifications regarding the degree of water resistance and v l e p r m breathability. Generally, the more water resistant the laminate, the se a s s id lin thicker it will be. e o op f laminated p

Nonporous laminate Produces a waterproof fabric Laminated poplin that doesn’t allow water vapor to pass through. Resultant fabric can be Distinctive features: uncomfortable to wear as For winter sports and outerwear, poplin fabrics, using body moisture is trapped polyester and nylon fiber content, have become Laminated poplin inside the garment. Must use absorbent or wicking lining indispensable for water-resistant jackets and pants. ■ Reflects light if using shiny filament yarns or adds fabric. Almost always uses depth if using dull textured filament yarns. PVC (see below). Often used for fashion garments, they ■ Crisp hand for easy cutting and sewing that is Poplin fabrics are unbalanced plain weaves, with the weft can be clear or add color or yarns larger than the warp yarns, creating a ridge on each weft especially helpful when designing a garment using texture to the bonded fabric. yarn. This ridge is also known as a “rib” creating a ribbed weave. color-blocking (using contrasting color fabric on Textile mills often use poplin weaves because it enables the mill to different pattern pieces on the same garment). change the character of the weft yarn easily. That means the mill ■ Added weight from the laminate makes sets up the warp, often using a nylon filament yarn warp, and then lightweight poplin fabric function for outerwear, Micro-porous plans a different weft yarn for different purposes. For example, a pants, and other protective clothing. membrane larger cotton weft yarn is woven with thinner nylon warp to Micro-porous membrane produce a cotton/nylon blend poplin fabric popular in menswear that is water resistant/ breathable. This laminate, casual pants and jackets. Change to a larger filament polyester weft which has microscopic holes yarn, and the fabric will have a shiny, dressy look for women’s to allow water vapor to fashion outerwear. Poplin weaves use mostly cotton, nylon, and Strengths escape, does not easily allow polyester fiber content. water droplets to seep into ■ Crisp hand. the pores. This membrane Poplin fabrics using laminates function very well when designing shown here is made from ■ weather-protective clothing such as skiwear, motocross apparel, or Many types of laminates available, including water polyester, which does not off- simply protection from rain and wind. Therefore, active wear brands resistant, breathable, nonporous laminates, and gas harmful chemicals and such as Burton, Nike, and Fox Racing all use laminated fabrics for high-tech laminates that open and close mirco- is recyclable into new fiber or protective jackets and pants. When designing high-tech functional holes according to atmosphere conditions. membrane. However, most micro-porous membranes jackets, choose the best laminate to keep the wearer dry and ■ Good colorfastness to light provided there is a are PVC. Sporty shape comfortable under extreme weather conditions. The more water- polyester fiber content. Laminating lightweight fabrics, such as the resistant the fabric, the thicker and less breathable the textile Viscous coating poplin used here in this Luca Luca design, becomes—so sportswear requires an absorbent lining. Instead of a laminate sheet, provides water-resistance, yet allows air to pass Weaknesses a viscous coating is applied through the fabric for maximum comfort. Laminates applied to poplin fabrics provide excellent water to the back of the fabric to resistance and add weight and a crisp hand to the fabric. For ■ Stitch holes will allow water to leak through. create water resistance. laminating, nylon or polyester fiber content is used for proper heat- Requires costly heat-sealing on all seams to Coating cracks easily. It can be clear or add color to the bonding procedures. Lamination is added by bonding the water prevent leaking. Eco concerns resistant layer to the back of the fabric. The drape of the poplin fabric back. Most coatings ■ You can sew laminate only once. Repeated are PVC-related. becomes significantly less flexible when adding the lamination. This stitching will perforate and weaken the fabric. change is very useful for creating structure in a normally lightweight Most laminates are produced using poly-vinylchloride poplin fabric. The added weight and stiffness from the laminate will ■ Laminate is heat sensitive. (PVC), a non-recyclable material that also off-gases help define the silhouette and support seam details of the design. volatile organic compounds (VOCs). VOCs are ■ Poor light-fastness with nylon fiber content. considered a toxic emission by environmental ■ Surfaces often crack, due to exposure to heat. agencies. • •

36 Structure Laminated poplin 37