Properties and Serviceability of Selected Household and Clothing Fabrics

A R Y

U356

SOULTURE

Bibliography and Review of Research Findings 1928-1951

AGRICULTURE INFORMATION BULLETIN No. 147 MAY 1956 U. S. Department of Agriculture Washington, D. C. CONTENTS Page Introduction 1 Household textiles. 2 Blanketing _-__ 2 Curtaining ^^_ :._ 4 Damask, table. 6 Sheeting, cotton, bleached and unbleached -- 9 Toweling 13 Upholstery fabrics.., _.. 18 Clothing fabrics -■-.-.-^.. 22 References 37 Appendix. Tables of fabric properties 41 Index to fabrics 126

ACKNOWLEDGMENT The authors express their appreciation to Ruth O'Brien for assistance in the prep- aration of the sections on specifications and serviceability of fabrics, and to Elinora Johnson Williams, Mary E. Fajen, and Janet Turner Straiisky for assistance in various phases of the study.

For sale by the Superintendent of Documents, U. S. Government Printing Office Washington 25, D. C. - Price 60 cents Properties and Serviceability of Selected Household and Clothing Fabrics Bibliography and Review of Research Findings, 1928-5P

By HAZEL M. FLETCHER and S. HELEN KOBEETS :^^ Clothing and Housing Research Branch, Agricultural Research Service

INTRODUCTION Research on the properties and serviceability of Since it was difficult in some cases for consumers fabrics has been developed largely in response to to understand the technical terms necessary on the needs of household and institutional buyers the labels that gave construction details, research for information on which to base then: selections. was developed looking toward the establishment Household buyers are continually seeking means of a simple grading system or classification based of judging quality in relation to price. Purchasing on minimum specifications for each grade. Ke- agents of hotels, dormitories/and other institu- search workers, through the analyses of large tions want facts as to how long various types of numbers of products and as many serviceability upholstery, bedding, and towels of different tests as possible, sought to set up such grades and quaUties will last. Moreover, in time of war or specifications and get them adopted by national other ernergency, those responsible for the use of organizations or by individual manufacturers or productive resources need to know which fabrics retailers. Among the standards or specifications are most useful and durable so that available that have been developed are those published fiber, labor, and manufacturing facilities can by the American Society for Testing Materials be allocated wisely. (ASTM), the American Standards Association, Data accumulated during the past 25 years and the American Home Economics Association. from laboratory studies and occasional studies of Some of them have been based on minimum performance-in-use by the U. S. Department of specifications and fabric classifications which the Agriculture and other research organizations former Bureau of Home Economics of the U. S. have provided a sounder basis for more informa- Department of Agriculture recommended as a tive labeling and have enabled home economists result of its laboratory and serviceability studies. and others concerned with consumer goods to For certain fabrics, Federal Specifications have recommend consumer standards or specifications also been published which define the qualities for certain fabrics. considered satisfactory for Government purchase. Early textile research on fiber composition Thus some progress has been made. However, emphasized the need for labeling fabrics with a review of published data shows that sufficient their fiber content. This practice was initiated research has not yet been done to provide the voluntarily by some manufacturers and retailers data on textile performance that make it possible on a limited scale during the 1920's and ultimately to identify the type of fabric that will best meet culminated in Federal Trade Commission rules specific home or institutional needs. Probably the for labeling rayon, acetate, silk, and linen and in greatest deterrent to progress in evaluating fabrics Federal legislation making mandatory the labeling froni the consumer-use standpoint is the lack of of wool. serviceability studies and of the correlation of the Later as it became evident that properties other findings from these and laboratory research. In than fiber content were important measures of order to predict textile performance accurately, quality, research workers extended their analyses many more in-service tests should be conducted of textiles to other indicators of wearing quality, along with laboratory determinations of the such as weight, thread count (yarns per inch), fabrics^ physical properties so that relationships and amount of sizing. As an outgrowth of this between them can be determined. Also needing research and public interest spearheaded by such more thorough study is the geometry or construc- organizations as the American Home Economics tion of the fabric, since this determines in large Association (AHEA), some labeling of textiles measure the usefulness of the fabric. giving information concerning their construction As a guide to textile research workers and others was introduced in the 1930's. Thus many concerned with the development of consumer manufacturmg and retail firms labeled sheets as standards for textiles, the results of selected to thread count, tensile strength, weight, and investigations of quality and serviceability of amount of sizing. textiles have been brought together in this pubfica- 1 Submitted for publication July 6, 1955. I tion and organized into reference form. The glossaries. The studies reviewed show that data studies included are limited to those from State are most extensive for broadcloth, percale, sheet- agricnltm'al experiment stations, colleges, universi- ing, and toweling made of cotton, and for ties, and the former Bureau of Human Nutrition blanketing made of cotton and wool. Data are and Home Economics, U. S. Department of sparse for other staple materials such as serges, Agriculture, since the published data are largely print cloth made of manufactured fibers, and from these sources. With few exceptions graduate blends of manufactured and natural fibers. For theses and unpublished data have not been the most part the fabrics have been studied as included. they appeared on the retail market ; few have been In separate sections of the text, each devoted to of known history. However, few studies have a so-called staple fabric, findings of widely been made in which cloth has been subjected to scattered studies are described, and in correspond- actual wear. ing appendix tables the basic data reported on Any standards or specifications suggested by fabric properties are tabulated for ready reference. Thus it can be seen how extensive or how sparse the American Standards Association, the American are the data for each fabric and in what areas Society for Testing Materials, or by individual further research is needed. Fabrics are arranged investigations are also discussed under the appro- alphabetically by names most commonly found in priate fabric. HOUSEHOLD TEXTILES

Fabrics used for bedding and other household nated by weight and fiber composition. The types purposes have been given more study by textile and properties are given in table 1. laboratories than have clothing materials, largely The Government purchases blankets of three because they are also important items in hotels, types by specification (112): hospitals, and other types of institutions. Pur- Type I: All cotton. chasing agents engaged in large quantity buying Type II: Cotton warp and wool or reprocessed have stimulated research on quality comparisons wool filling. in an effort to obtain facts essential to the formu- Type III: Blended nylon-wool-rayon-cot ton and lation of specifications which wñl insure satis- other fibers. factory service. Physical requirements for the three types defined in Federal Specification DDD-B-421b are given Blanketing in table 2. Data on the physical properties of household SERVICEABILITY OF BLANKETS.-—Resistance to blankets and their reaction to cleaning have been in-service wear, although important, is more diffi- accumulating since the early 1930's. Appendix cult to obtain than measurements of physical table 42 presents findings on more than 250 house- properties because of the time required to com- hold blankets, most of them made of wool and plete such experiments. Only 7 of the blanketings cotton, arranged in order of weight per square listed in appendix table 42 were studied in service. yard. Some effort has been made to obtain data on the Properties commonly listed for all fabrics, such length of service of blankets of known composition. as weight, thickness, and strength, are included, In the late 1930% the U. S. Bureau of Home as well as thermal transmission, air permeability Economics and the U. S. Bureau of Animal In- and resilience, which are of particular interest in dustry studied the serviceability of 63 blankets the case of blankets. made of 4 fabrics of wools from purebred fiocks The data for blankets in table 42 reveal that of Corriedale and Rambouillet sheep maintained the weight and thickness of approximately 95 at the experiment station of the U. S. Department percent of the following groups exceed weight and of Agriculture at Dubois, Idaho (33), thickness as indicated: Three blends of virgin wool—(1) 1 part fine^ All-wool blankets—8.5 ounces per square yard and 0.070 and 1 part ^i blood; (2) 2 parts % blood and 1 part inch. Yi blood; and (3) 1 part % blood and 2 parts re- Wool and cotton mixtures—6.5 ounces per square yard worked wool^—and reworked wool were used. and 0.070 inch. The reworked wools were from good white knits. All-cotton blankets—4,0 ounces per square yard and 0.030 inch. Data on the properties of the new blankets are included in appendix table 42. SPECIFICATIONS FOR BLANKETS.—In 1940 the The blankets were put into service as coverings American Society for Testing Materials issued for patients in the postoperative ward of a veterans^ Tentative Specifications for All Wool, All Cotton, hospital in Washington, D. C. They were washed and Wool and Cotton Blanketing (Household), in the hospital's laundry after each patient was. ASTM Designation: D 576-40 T (46, p. 1S7),' discharged. This frequent laundering in addition Eight types of household blanketing were desig- to the 24-ho'ur-per-day use permitted comparisons 2 Italic numbers in parentheses refer to References, p. 37. to be made in a shorter period of time than would TABLE 1,—ASTM specifications for blanketing (household) (Designation: D576-40 T)

Yarns per inch, Breaking strength Thick- Weight minimum (grab), minimum Air perme- per square ness, Type and description ability, yard, mini- maximum ^ minimum mum 1 Warp Pilling Warp Filling

All wool : Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Cubic feet 12 ounces or more per square yard 12.0 0. 120 24 16 30 20 130 Less than 12 ounces per square yard 8.4 .080 24 16 20 10 180 Cotton warp, wool filling: Not less than 70-percent wool __ 9.4 .090 30 28 30 20 130 Cotton and wool: Not less than 50-percent wool 8.4 .080 30 26 30 16 140 Not leas than 2S-Dercent wool _ _ _ 7.4 .070 30 24 30 12 150 Not less than 5-T)ercent wool 6.4 .070 32 20 26 10 150 All cotton: 7 ounces or more t)er souare vard 7.0 .090 36 24 30 10 100 Less than 7 ounces per square yard 4.2 .040 26 20 20 10 180

1 At a pressure of 1 pound per square inch. 2 Per minute per square foot at pressure difference of 1 pound per square foot. ordinarily be possible. The number of times a B.—Squeeze-roll or rope-type washer at 100°-1I0° F., dried over racks at room temperature ; blanket was laundered was used as the unit of wear. C.—Y-pocket wheel at 90° F., dried on stretchers All blankets made from the first two blends at 135** F. gave approximately the same reaction to wear and Procedure A was most damaging; procedure B were still in service at the end of the test. The blan- least damaging. Fabric 3 deteriorated more than kets of the first blend were laundered from 23 to 52 fabrics 1 or 2. times and the second from 19 to 37 times. The blan- The effect of wear plus laundering was studied kets of the third blend were worn out at the end of with procedure A (table 4). All the physical and 36 washings; those of reworked wool lasted through chemical tests applied to measure deterioration only 12 washings. The four fabrics deteriorated showed that wear plus laundering caused more progressively with service as measured by all the damage than merely repeated laundering. tests (table 3). In general, the rate of deterioration A later study (56) compared the serviceability was greater for the fabrics containing reworked of blanket fabrics made from 3 blends of wool and wool than for those made entirely from new wools. mohair: (1) 1 part poor wool and 2 parts good The reaction of the blankets to three types of wool; (2) 1 part reworked wool and 3 parts good laundering is also reported (SI), The blankets wool; and (3) 1 part mohair and 3 parts good wool. were laundered repeatedly without wear by the The properties of these fabrics are included in following commonly used procedures: appendix table 42. A.—High-speed, rib washer at 90°-100° F., dried at Six blankets of each of 3 fabrics were put room temperature; into use at the U. S. Naval Hospital, Washington,

TABLE 2.—Federal specification jor blankets oj 3 types (DDD-B-421b, 1953)

Yarns per inch, Breaking strength Size, minimum Weight per blanket minimum (grab), minimum Type and class Width Length Maximum Minimum Warp Filling Warp Filling

Type I: i Inches Inches Pounds Pounds Number Number Pounds Pounds r 60 84 3,2 3.0 37 36 30 25 1 __ __ _-_ 66 84 3. 5 3.3 37 36 30 25 [ 66 90 3.7 3.4 37 36 30 25 / 70 84 1.3 1.2 35 24 28 15 2 t 72 90 1.7 1.5 27 28 27 17 Types II2 and III: 3 W r 60 80 3.4 3.3 52 40 38 36 4.3 4. 1 52 40 38 36 1 . 66 90 72 90 4. 6 4.4 52 40 38 36 [ 66 84 4.0 3.8 52 40 38 36

1 All cotton. 2 Cotton warp, wool or reprocessed wool filling. ^ Blended nylon-wool-rayon-cotton and other fibers. TABLE 3.- -Properties of 4 "i^ool blankets before and after hospital wear and laundering

Breaking strength Yarns per Shrinkage Weight inch Air Heat Item number, fabric, per Thick- Grab Strip Bursting per- trans- and times laundered square ness 1 strength mea- mis- yard bil- sion 3 Fill- Fill- Fill- Warp Warp Warp Fill- ity2 ing ing ing Warp ing

1. Wool, 1 part fine, Num- Num- Per^ Per- Cubic Calo- 1 part H blood: Ounces Inch ber ber Lbs. Lbs. Lbs. Lhs, Lbs. cent cent feet ries 0 13. 1 0. 1102 28.0 35.4 72.8 50.3 48.3 27.9 109 39 0. 113 12 19. 1 .1323 31.8 42.2 91.0 76.6 44.0 33.8 121 20 13 18 109 24 21.9 . 1460 34.2 46.6 79. 1 65.7 34.7 28.0 98 27 19 10 090 36 - 22.9 . 1537 33.6 47.4 83.4 71.3 35.8 29. 5 106 31 19 10 081 52 23.9 . 1593 34.6 47.4 73.2 63.9 33. 1 26.9 97 33 20 7 .098 2. Wool, 2 parts % blood, 1 part % blood: 0 12. 8 . 1090 27.0 34. 2 76.8 55.4 52.5 29.8 127 57 108 12__ 17.4 .1218 30.4 41. 6 92.6 72.8 47.0 39.3 129 17 12 29 115 24 - 22.5 .1525 32.6 47.6 90.7 82.2 35.9 35. 8 118 28 17 10 .094 36 22.6 . 1610 33.8 48.4 75.6 79.0 36.0 38. 9 122 30 20 14 .084 3. Wool, 1 part % blood, 2 parts reworked: 0_._ _.. 11.7 .0805 26.6 36.8 28.9 27.4 19.7 16.5 62 56 147 12 16.4 .1130 30.8 45.6 40.4 35.6 15. 1 16.3 60 24 ■ Ï6 31 .097 24 - 16. 9 . 1201 30.4 48.0 29.6 30.2 9. 6 9.6 48 27 12 30 . 120 36 11.5 .0999 26. 6 45.6 15.4 9.8 5.5 3. 1 25 73 .115 4. Wool, reworked: 0___,_-^ 8.7 . 0564 25.3 19.9 7.7 9.2 5.7 5.2 22 102 167 12 8,3 .0624 24.4 22.6 2.8 3.6 1.4 2.5 16 6 5_|_4 140 .180

* At a pressure of 1 pound per square inch* * Edges badly worm 2 Per minute per square foot at 1 pound pressure. ^ Pius indicates stretch. 3 Per 1° C. per second per 1,000 square centimeters.

D. C, and were laundered by the hospitaPs regular acetate, orlon, and a mixture of viscose and laundering procedure after each 2-week period of cotton. Weight and yarns per inch of approxi- service. The differences in serviceabiHty between mately 90 percent of the cotton marquisettes the fabrics were small. None of the blankets was exceed 1.0 ounce per square yard and 40X17 worn out when it was necessary to withdraw them yarns per inch. from use—some after 48 and others after 60 laun- SERVICEABILITY OF MARQUISETTES.-—A com- derings, which represented 96 and 120 weeks of bined laboratory and serviceabiHty study of 33 wear, respectively. As measured by laboratory plain curtain marquisettes was reported by tests throughout service, the fabrics rated in gen- Morrison and Jelinek in 1945 (76), The prop- eral in the following order of decreasing use-value : erties of the new materials are included in Fabric 1, made of new wool; fabric 3, which con- appendix table 43. tained new mohair; and fabric 2, which contained Curtains made of the materials were hung at reworked wool (table 5). east windows and were laundered every 2 months. The three groups of fabrics were tested when Curtaining new and at the end of 4, 8, and 12 months of service (table 6). The fabrics in group I were Studies of the properties of glass curtaining unfinished cotton; those in group II, finished have pertained chiefly to marquisettes, although cotton; and those in group III, rayon or part voiles and some sheers (net, ninon, and scrim) rayon. have been included in a few investigations. Some The physical and chemical properties of the heavier materials used for draperies, such as fabrics within each group differed widely when chintz and cretonne, also have been considered. new and during service, even though the respec- tive groups were similar in fiber content, finish, Marquisette and appearance. In the new materials, values for warp breaking strength by the strip method Marquisette is an open-textured, lightweight averaged 24.9, 26.0, and 20.9 pounds, respectively, fabric of leno weave. In appendix table 43, 75 for the three groups. The corresponding averages of these materials are listed. The majority, 45, for the filling brealdng strength were 10.6, 11.4, are cotton; the remainder are viscose rayon, and 12,7 pounds. TABLE 4:,—Properties of 3 wool blanket fabrics laundered by various procedures

Breaking Yarns per strength Shrinkage Weight inch Air Item number, fabric, laundry proper Thick- (strip) Bursting permea- cedure, and times laundered square ness 1 strength bility 2 yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

1.—Wool, 1 part fine, 1 part % blood: Num- Num- Per- Per- Cubic Procedure A: ^ Ounces Inch ber ber Pounds Pounds Pounds cent cent feet 0 13. 1 0. 1102 28.0 35.4 48.3 27.9 109 39 12__ - -- __ 20.2 . 1391 33,4 42.6 47.3 37.7 125 23 17 16 24 _ - . _ - 22. 1 . 1569 34.0 38.5 45.9 39.8 133 12 36 23.2 . 1662 32.0 42.9 39.2 37.2 112 13 52 23.4 . 1724 33.6 43.8 36.4 34.5 112 12 Procedure A plus wear : 12 19. 1 . 1323 31.8 42.2 44.0 33.8 121 18 24 21. 9 . 1460 34.2 46.6 34.7 28 0 98 10 36 22.9 . 1537 33.6 47.4 35.8 29.5 106 10 52 23.9 . 1593 34.6 47.4 33.1 26.9 97 7 Procedure B : ^ 12______15.3 . 1108 29.0 39.8 43.9 30.9 106 10 4 25 24 18.0 .1184 31.5 39.0 49.6 37.0 127 16 36 - ______19. 4 . 1241 30.2 40.2 46,3 43.0 125 16 52 18.6 .1244 30.5 43.0 46.3 44. 5 118 12 2.—Wool, 2 parts % blood, 1 part % blood: Procedure A: 0 12.8 . 1090 27 0 34.2 52.5 29.8 127 57 12 _ 20.2 . 1514 33.0 43.0 51.9 38.9 142 23 18 25 24 22.9 . 1741 33.5 40.5 46.4 39.5 149 21 36 24.0 . 1901 31.0 41.7 39.8 39. 1 125 18 52 23.4 . 1944 32.9 46.7 36.6 34.9 131 18 Procedure A plus wear: 12 17.4 . 1218 30.4 41.6 47.0 39.3 129 29 24 22. 5 . 1525 32.6 47.6 35.9 35.8 118 10 36 22.6 . 1610 33. 8 48.4 36.0 38 9 122 14 Procedure B: 12____ 16.0 .1205 29.2 39.8 52.2 31.8 127 11 8 41 24 _ _ _. 19. 5 . 1330 30.0 39.5 56.2 41.3 151 25 36 19.4 .1380 30.5 42.3 51.6 39.5 128 20 52 19.3 . 1353 30.9 46.2 52.9 41. 1 136 21 Procedure C : ^ 12 - _- _ _ 16. 5 .1213 29.4 39.4 49.2 35.7 126 15 7 29 52 _ _ _ _ _ . 21.2 . 1406 32.2 44.8 48.2 43.3 148 25 3.—Wool, 1 part % blood, 2 parts reworked : Procedure A: 0 ______11.7 .0805 26.6 36.8 19.7 16. 5 62 56 12 ______15. 3 . 1147 30.4 43.8 14.5 14. 1 54 19 12 45 24 15.3 .1268 28.0 36.5 10.3 10.0 46 43 36 12.7 . 1125 26.2 38.3 5.7 4.2 38 72 52 12.5 . 1083 24.6 40.4 5.6 4.4 32 71 Procedure A plus wear : 12 16.4 . 1130 30.8 45.6 15. 1 16.3 60 31 24 16.9 . 1201 30.4 48.0 9.6 9.6 48 30 36 ' 11.5 .0999 26.6 45.6 5.5 3. 1 25 73 Procedure B: 12 12.7 .0886 27 0 38 8 15,7 14.7 52 6 0 61 24 13.9 .0988 28.5 38 5 15,4 16.4 61 51 36 13.4 .1072 28 0 39.7 12.1 12.7 44 48 52______13.3 .1008 26.9 43.3 12.3 13.8 52 68 Procedure C: 12___ 10.6 .0852 26.4 39.0 11.8 11.6 47 9 «+1 59 52 14. 5 .1077 29.8 45.6 13.2 13.5 57 35

* At a pressure of 1 pound per square inch. ^Squeeze-roll or rope-type washer at 100*^-110° F., 2 Per minute per square foot at 1 pound pressure. dried over racks at room temperature. 3 High-speed, rib washer at 90°-100° F., dried at room ß Y-pocket wheel at 90° F., dried on stretchers at 135° F. temperature. Ö Plus indicates stretch. TABLE 5.—Properties of S blanket fabrics of wool and mohair after various periods of hospital service

Breaking strength Weight Yarns per Air Ther- Com- Item number, inch Shrinkage per- mal Com- pres- fabric, and per Thick- pos- square ness 1 Grab Strip me- trans- sibil- sional times laundered yard abil- mis- resili- ity2 sion 3 ity ence Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

1.—Wool; 1 part poor, 2 Num- Num- Per- Per- Cubic Calo- In. ¡in. Per- parts good: Ounces Inch ber ber Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds cent cent feet ries Ib./in.^ cent 0-__ 14.5 0. 113 27.0 35.0 47.2 80.9 25.2 40. 5 41 0. 104 0.25 33 12 20.3 .137 27.4 38.6 57. 1 105.5 31.2 52. 1 17.3 16.2 18 .089 . 13 37 24__ 21.2 . 142 32.2 44.2 61.7 107.1 30.5 51. 0 19.8 17.6 16 .081 . 13 36 36 20.5 . 139 32. 8 43.4 57.8 98. 8 26.7 47.2 18.9 16.6 17 .083 . 14 34 48 20.3 .141 32.4 43.6 55.6 105. 1 28.3 52.2 19, 7 16.2 17 .091 . 14 35 2.—W o o 1 ; 1 part reworked, 3 parts good: 0_-,_..._. 12.7 109 26.6 33.2 38.6 62. 1 20,9 30,9 46 .113 ,28 31 12_. 20.8 140 28.8 37.0 53. 6 94.9 25, 6 44.0 25.6 21.4 17 .074 12 36 24____ 20,6 142 30.8 41.4 51.5 97.2 25,3 42.9 25.8 20. 6 20 ,082 14 36 36__-__-__- 20.9 142 35.2 44. 6 55.2 90. 4 23, 6 42.8 26.3 22.0 16 .088 , 14 35 4S,___.___. 21.3 147 34.4 46.4 55. 6 97.0 24,4 44. 1 27.3 23. 6 18 .090 14 33 60______21.8 150 34.6 42.0 50.7 90.4 24.4 45.3 24.4 20.0 13 .088 14 35 3.—Mohair 1 part; wool 3 parts good: 0______12.6 107 26.0 32.8 39. 5 61.2 21.0 31.7 44 . 102 SO 33 12_„_.___ 19.8 141 29.2 36.8 60.9 103.8 30. 2 49.0 21.5 23.0 18 .079 14 35 : 24____ 20.5 141 30.6 40.8 63.8 99.4 30.4 45. 1 22.5 24. 1 16 .086 12 36 36______21.0 147 35. 6 44.4 64.5 103.4 29. 5 46.5 25.8 26.2 19 .080 , 14 34 48_____.^_. 21.0 148 35,6 46. 2 67.6 103.3 30. 7 45.4 24.0 25.8 19 ,084 15 34 60__ 21. 1 147 35,0 43.8 58.9 101.0 29. 3 46. 3 22.3 24.3 15 . 103 14 34

^ At a pressure of 1 pound per square inch. 2 Per minute per square foot at 1 pound pressure. 3 Per 10 0. per second per 1,000 square centimeters.

At the end of 12 months^ 10 of the 14 unfinished are theatrical gauze, bobbinet, ninon, and scrim. marquisettes had retained from two-thirds to The heavier materials commonly used for draperies three-fourths^ of then* original strength. Per- are reported in appendix table 46. centage loss in strength for most of the finished marquisettes exceeded that for the majority of Damask, Table the imfinished materials. Eabrics from all 3 groups showed high shrinkage, which ranged Table damask is a Jacquard fabric of a more or from 5 to 18 percent in the warp and 1 to 17 less elaborate design. This material is commonly percent in the filling. made with warp and filling face satin weaves, one for the figure, the other for the ground. Single Voile damask is made with 5-harness satin floats with a construction that varies from 62x48 to 80x76 Voile is a sheer open fabric of plain weave with yarns per inch. Double damask, which is a a crisp, rather wiry hand. The better qualities heavier fabric, is made of finer yarns than the are made of 2-pIy, hard-twisted, combed and single damask with 8-harness satin floats. Be- gassed yarns; semi voiles, of single warp and cause of the longer floats, 96X104 yarns per inch plied filUng; and single voiles, of single yarns, are used. usually 50's and 60's. The few studies published Properties of the few damasks studied and re- on the properties of these fabrics relate to those ported are given in appendix table 47. used in curtaining, although dress voiles are also SPECIFICATIONS FOR TABLE DAMASK.—The Gov- common. In appendix table 44 are reported ernment purchases cotton table damask by Federal the properties of 14 voiles. Specification CCC-D-71 (36), The requirements for this material are given in table 7. Gtiier Curtain Fabrics SERVICEABILITY OF TABLE DAMASK.—An early (1933) serviceability study of a single damask Irish Properties of some other glass curtain materials linen was made in the Bureau of Home Economics are included in appendix table 45. Among them by putting into use in a Washington, D. C, hotel 6 TABLE 6.—Properties of S3 curtain marquisettes, after service ^

Breaking Breaking Yarns per Yarns per strength Fabric group Weight strength Fabric group Weight inch inch and number,2 per (strip) Fluid- and number,2 per (strip) and times square ity and times square laundered yard laundered yard Filling Warp Filling Warp Filing Warp Filling Warp

Group I, un- Group I, unfinished finished cotton: Num- Num- cotton— Num- Num- Ul: Ounces ber ber Pounds Pounds Rhes Con. 20.5 7.8 4.5 U14: Ounces ber ber Pounds Pounds 0_- 0.98 40 18 11.4 42 19 14.6 6.5 11.6 0 1.28 46 23 24.0 2 1.09 19.6 9.2 1. 12 45 20 12.6 6.2 12.2 2 1.35 52 24 4 21.8 9.5 1.07 41 19 11.9 5.2 12.3 4 1.46 55 25 52 24 17.3 7.9 U2: 6 1.41 0.. 1.34 50 28 24.3 10.9 3.8 2_. 1.48 55 30 20.7 10.4 10.3 Group II, 4_. 1.60 58 31 19.7 8.8 11.0 finished 6.. 1.45 55 30 17.3 8.0 12.4 cotton: U3: Fl: 18.4 8.6 4.7 0 1. 11 55 29 22.5 11.7 0.. 1.04 40 19 8.9 42 20 14.5 7.2 10.5 2 1.28 62 31 19.9 2_. 1. 14 19.4 9.1 1. 14 44 20 13.6 6.2 7.6 4_.----. 1.32 62 31 4.. 62 31 15.0 6.5 6.. 42 19 8.5 3.5 22.2 6 1.23 F2: Ü4: 62 33 26.2 12.2 0_. 1. 24 48. 21 24.2 10.4 3,8 0 1.18 22 16.9 8.2 11.7 2 1.40 70 35 24.3 10.3 2_ 1.38 52 9.8 1.38 54 23 17.8 8.3 11.9 4 1.41 71 35 22,8 4. 71 35 19.9 7.4 6_ 1. 32 53 22 14.0 6.4 18.7 6 1.32 F3: U5: 27 25.7 11.5 0. 1.26 48 22 25.6 10.9 4.4 0 1. 18 48 24 21.3 8.0 11.8 2 1.39 53 30 20.0 9. 1 2. 1.44 53 19.5 8.0 1. 51 54 24 20.9 7.3 11.6 4 1.39 54 30 4_ 54 29 18.3 8,0 6_ 1.41 54 24 17,3 7.2 12.5 6 1.37 F4: U6: 48 20 32.8 9.9 0_ 1. 15 46 18 26.0 8.8 4.4 0 1.06 7.2 10. 6 2 1. 26 54 21 23.8 7.0 2_ 1.26 50 19 20. 7 7.2 20 16.7 7.0 10.5 4 1.27 54 22 24.4 4_ 1.35 51 21 21.1 7.0 1. 21 49 20 16.0 6.0 12.8 6 1.23 54 Ü7: F5: 22.8 12.6 3.8 0 1. 90 42 18 33.9 24. 1 0_„ 1.30 54 30 22.8 33 18. 5 10.8 10,5 2 2.29 44 20 29.8 2_._ 1.49 59 28.8 21.8 1. 57 62 33 17. 1 9.8 7,8 4 2.23 44 20 4__- 42 19 20.8 15.4 6— 1. 57 60 32 12.2 8.3 21.0 2. 15 F6: U8: 26.0 9. 5 1. 51 52 32 27.0 13.4 4.0 0. 1.06 48 20 0„. 22 20.7 8.3 2„, 1.61 58 34 25.3 11.7 8, 1 2_ 1.25 52 36 25.0 12.2 7.3 4. 1.27 53 22 19.0 7.7 4_.- 1. 77 59 14.0 5.8 1. 66 59 35 16.2 8.2 19.6 6_ 1.20 51 22 U9: F7: 27.9 10.9 3.6 0. 1.07 54 30 22.3 10.4 0... 1.41 50 29 9.2 30 26.6 9.6 9.5 2_ 1.23 60 32 18.7 2„_ 1. 55 58 18. 4 8.6 1. 62 58. 31 23.5 9.7 9. 6 4_ 1.25 60 33 4._- 32 12.8 5.8 6___ 1.58 59 31 20 7 8.4 10. 1 1. 18 60 F8: UIO: 42 19 19.0 7.0 0__. 1. 29 50 23 27.3 11. 1 3.8 0_. 89 24 23. 0 9.7 9.9 2-_ 03 44 20 14.0 5.4 2._. 1. 47 56 13. 1 4.8 1.52 58 24 20 4 9.5 10.3 4_. 03 46 20 4,.. 20 11.8 4.6 6._. 1. 50 58 24 20.4 8.4 11.7 6 _ 00 46 UU: F9: 11.8 3.6 0._ 1.03 54 29 24.6 11.2 0__. 1.36 48 23 27.8 10.4 1. 61 54 24 24. 6 10.2 8.7 2__ 1.22 61 31 23. 6 2._. 22.2 10. 1 1. 57 56 25 23. 1 8.8 8.6 4__ 1.26 60 31 4__. 60 30 17.9 7.0 6._. 1.49 55 24 20.6 8.7 17.4 1, 16 U12: FIO: 10.6 3.7 0 1.02 46 18 29.0 8.3 5.9 0__. 1. 25 48 21 25.9 12.2 22 22.8 9.3 8.4 2 . 1. 17 51 19 22.3 6.7 2-. 1.45 55 21.2 7.0 11. 1 1.53 56 23 22.2 8.4 7.2 4_. 1.20 52 20 4_.. 19 16.2 5.2 19.0 6_- 1. 42 55 22 17.9 6.3 17.9 6_. 1. 13 51 Fll: U13: 21 33.4 10.2 5.3 0__ 1. 18 46 19 25.8 9.5 3.7 0. 1. 18 51 20.6 7.4 13.0 2- 1.32 56 23 23.5 7.9 17.3 2_. 1. 27 51 20 12.3 21 18. 1 7.6 9.7 4. 1.43 57 23 23.8 8. 1 4__ 1.37 52 22.2 7.6 15.7 •6 I 1.27 I 52 21 17.6 6. 5 11.3 6_ 1.34 58 23 See footnotes at end of table. TABLE ñ.—Properties of 33 curtain marquisettes, after service ^—Continued

Yarns per Breaking Breaking Fabric group Weight strength Fabric group Yarns per and number,3 inch Weight strength per (strip) Fluid- and number,^ per inch and times square (strip) Fluid- ity and times square ity laundered yard laundered yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Group 11, Group III, finished rayon cotton— Num- Num- or part Con. rayon— F12: Ounces ber ber Pounds Pounds Rhes 0.92 41 18 21.9 7.2 6.0 Con. Num- Num- 0 F16:3 Ounces 2 1.02 44 19 14.7 5.2 19. 6 ber ber Pounds Pounds Rhes 1.07 46 19 15,4 5.4 12.2 0 1.42 44 26 23.0 11. 1 10.2 4. 2 1.49 6 1.02 45 19 13.6 4.4 16.9 48 28 17.0 6.6 12.6 4 1.67 49 F13: 29 14. 0 10. 7 12.3 6 1.42 47 0 1.20 56 36 21. 6 14.4 11. 0 28 9. 1 3. 8 16.9 1.46 63 39 17.6 12 0 23.4 F17:* 2 0 1.22 4 1.49 64 39 18. 1 12.2 20.4 38 24 19.8 14.0 8.3 2 1.48 43 6 1.40 62 38 12.7 8.4 27.3 26 17.7 11. 9 11.2 4 1.57 43 27 18.4 13.0 10.5 Group HI, 6 1.44 43 25 14.2 8. 1 14. 9 rayon F18:* or part 0 1.26 40 25 20.5 14. 0 8.3 rayon: 2 1, 48 43 27 13. 8 8.5 13. 2 F14:V 4 1.55 43 28 19.0 13. 1 12. 6 0 _. 1. 16 42 25 21.2 11.7 8.8 6 1.48 42 27 15.1 11.3 13.8 2 1.30 48 27 14.6 11.2 10.4 F19:* 4._ 1.44 48 28 14.7 7.2 9.7 0„ 1.39 42 28 21.2 15.2 8.4 6 L37 47 27 12.6 5.5 11. 1 2 1.71 47 31 16.9 13.9 12.8 F15;^ 4 1.77 48 33 19.4 14.9 11.5 0 1.02 36 19 19.6 10.0 7 8 6 1.69 46 31 16.8 13.0 13.3 2 1. 19 42 20 15.6 10. 0 10.6 4 1,20 41 21 14.2 11.4 9.7 6 1.07 40 20 11.2 4.8 14.5

Periods of service designated by times laundered. Two 2 U indicates unfinished fabric; F, finished fabric, laundermgs indicates curtains in use 4 months, May s Gotton warp; rayon filling with no twist. through August; 4 launderings, 8 months, September * Rayon warp and filling. «irough April; 6 launderings, full year, May through

59 54-incli table covers and 117 22-iiic]i napkins table covers between Sñ and 181 washes (average (15), They were given the same use as and were 120). ^ K s laundered with other hotel linen. Data on the Napkins were discarded after 153 to 224 washes properties of the new fabric are included in ap- (average 202) and the table covers after 138 to 200 pendix table 47. washes (average 176). The changes in weight, Most of the breaks produced by wear occurred thickness, and strength are shown in table 8. on the border sections and were due to the faUure Sumner and Roseberry {71) compared the resist- of the filling. The first break in napkins occurred ance to wear of damask-weave table napkins of between 58 and 197 washes (average 128) and m different fiber composition. Three of the fabrics

TABLE 7,—Federal specification for cotton table damask {0CC-D~71,1937)

Weight per Yarns per inch, minimum Breaking strength pounds Type Width, mini- square (grab), minimum mum yard, minimum Ends Combined Picks Warp Filling

Inches Ounces Number Number Number Pounds Pounds A 58 4.4: B 116 45 50 64 5.2 135 G 72 50 55 Tl 5.2 135 50 54 5.5 55 78 76 64 74 Errrnimi 64 5.5 78 76 64 F ._ 72 5.5 74 78 78 64 74 TABLE 8.—Properties oj table n apkins and covers of linen damask: New and at intervals during hotel service

Yarns per inch Breaking strength (strip) Bursting Piece and times Weight per Thickness laundered square yard strength Warp Filling Warp Pilling

Napkins : Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds 0 _ 5.86 0.008 82 80 131. 2 106.8 162.3 1 5.70 .014 82 83 101. 2 88.0 107.1 100-..- 5.22 .013 83 86 46.5 34.6 40.5 175 4.08 .011 82 85 21,5 15.6 19.4 200 4.04 . 012 82 83 20.9 13.5 17.9 Covers: 1 5.92 .012 83 84 100.7 91.3 146.9 100 -,- _-_ - 5.50 .012 82 87 62. 1 40.7 61.7 175 4.74 .013 83 87 38.0 22.0 35.0 200 4.28 .011 83 85 25.2 13.8 21.8 were of linen, some were cotton with a permanent were wiped with a damp cloth after each meal. finish, and others had rayon filling and cotton After 124 times of use, the linen mats were in warp. Three price levels were represented in each better condition than the plastic ones and were group. Properties of the new fabrics are reported still usable. Data on the properties of the mats in appendix table 47. before and after service and ratings after use are The napkins were used in a college dining hall given in table 10. over a period of 32 weeks. Each was used by 1 person for 3 days of each week and then laundered Sheeting, Cotton, Bleached and in the school laundry. As shown in table 9, the Unbleached deterioration as measured by breaking strength was greatest in the linen napkins. This was per- Data from publications reporting the analysis of haps due in large part, however, to the fact that cotton sheetings are summarized in appendix the others shrank more, thus gaining in weight per table 48» More studies have been made of these square yard. The loss in dry breaking strength materials than of most other types of fabrics— of the linen was from 29 to 57 percent fiUingwise, largely because consumers' efforts to obtain whereas the change in most of the others ranged standards for household and clothing fabrics were from 0.4 percent gain to 10 percent loss. Shrinkage first focused on this material. As early as 1927, in the linens did not exceed 5 percent, but in some the American Home Economics Association of the other fabrics it was as much as 12 percent. requested the American Standards Association to In a comparison of the serviceability of linen and establish standards or specifications for sheeting. plastic (polystyrene) table mats, 15 of each type This fabric was chosen for an initial attempt at were used during 2 quarters by students living in the formidation of textile standards, because it has 2 home-management houses of Alabama Poly- a relatively simple construction, is in general use technic Institute (98). The linen mats were used in homes of all income levels, and is an example for 4 meals before laundering; the plastic ones of a household fabric in which durability is of

TABLE 9.—Effect of service on weight, breaking strength, and shrinkage of damask table napkins of different fiber composition used in a college dining hall

Weight per Breaking strength (strip) Shrinkage in^ square yard

After service of 32 weeks Change Fiber, item number, and type of 32 weeks of fabric After 5 launderings service service Wet Dry Wet of 32 Change Dry weeks Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent Percent Percent Percent Percent Percerit Percent Linen: Ounces Percent Pounds 1.2 1 Single damask _ 6.05 -2.2 66.2 69.8 65.6 73.6 -32.0 -33.7 -46.1 -38.7 2.0 0 4.9 36.6 30.0 34.2 21.6 -27.3 -28.9 -45.8 -47.5 2.2 0 L3 .6 2 Single damask 4.47 -9.1 2.1 3 Single damask 4.02 -12.2 33.0 19.6 33.8 19.0 -47.2 -57.4 -50.5 -61.3 1.2 0 2.2 Cotton: 8.2 IA 4 Single damask - 6.82 +13.8 58.0 68.0 54.6 58.4 -25.0 -29.6 -12.5 3.1 69.8 42.2 68.0 -17.2 -3.3 -24.3 -9.8 3.1 3.1 7.4 4.5 5 Single damask 6.50 +14.6 44.0 5.6 2.7 6 Single damask 6.11 +3.3 45.0 64.2 41.0 63.4 -17.0 -18.7 -28.0 -25.7 2.3 2.3 Rayon filling, cotton warp: 43.6 47.6 39.2 20.0 -20.7 +.4 -34.2 -14.4 4.6 1.6 5.7 2.7 7 Double damask 5.62 +13.3 L9 6.7 4.2 8 Single damask 6.08 +13.3 38.6 39.6 33.6 12.6 -23.4 -5.2 -41.2 -20.2 3,8 6.06 +10.5 64.0 55.0 SO.O 20.4 -29.7 +L1 -38.5 -.4 4.6 .7 12.0 0 9 Single damask L9 6.8 S.8 10 Double damask 6.57 +15.8 67.6 90.4 63.8 40.8 -16.7 +3.9 -17.7 +4.6

36564.2^56 TABLE 10,—Properties of table mats before and after service and ratings after use in ê college home-manage- menthouses ' - - - _ Yarns per inch Breaking Ratings after being Weight strength used 1 per Type cf mat Size Thick- square ness yard Warp Filling Warp Filling 64 92 124 times times times

Linen : Ounces Inches Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Before service ___ 3.76 17,6x11.7 0.006 73.2 63.2 81.3 71.0 After service 3.74 17,0 X 11.4 .0085 66.6 75.4 77, 1 77.9 3.04 2. 11 2. 22 Plastic- 2.28 1.88 1.73

^ 4 is highest, with no change from new; 1 is lowest and undesirable for use.

greater signifiGance than fashion. This attempt of various types of sheeting in actual use. Re- to formulate standards for fabrics was unsuccessful ported studies, however, give some indication of because of the absence of analytical data on their the wear that can be expected from the various properties and serviceability. As a result, many types. studies were then made of sheets and sheetings. *^ For a study in the early 1930's (18,19) sheets of SPECIFIGATIONS FOR SHEETING.—In 1938 the Type 128 (mediumweight muslin) were made of American Society for Testing Materials issued American upland cotton of three grades; Good tentative specifications for bleached wide cotton Middling, Middling, and Strict Good Ordinary. sheeting, ASTM Designation: D 503-38 T (36, The sheets were put in service in a Washington, pp, 98-99), which were revised in 1941 (Aß, pp. p.c., hotel, collected each morning, and laundered Î42~Î4S), IMS (59) pp. 195-196), 1946 (77 J^. in the hotel laundry. As measured by physical 241^242), ma lM^(86,p. 284). The American Standards Association published TABLE 11 .—AHEA standards for 4 types of sheetma standards in 1948 (Sí) and the American Home (1953) ^ Í/ Economics Association in 1949 (91, Î10)\ In the meantime, because of World War II Type attention was focused on the need for fabric speci- 180, fications as a guide to the economical use of ma- Type combed Type Type terials and manpower in that time of emergency. Characteristics 200, or 140, 128, Standards for some commodities, including sheet^ combed carded carded carded (specify ing, were established under the sponsorship of the which) U. S. Office of Price Administration, with very low minimums to meet the scarce supply situation Yarns per inch, mini- of that time. In order to avoid reference to the mum: various grades that might reflect unfavorably Warp__^ „number __ 100 d= 4 90 ±4 70±4 64 ±4 upon the quality of any of them, sheetings were Filling...._do.___ 100±4 90 ±4 70±4 64±4 classified as 'Types," on the basis of the minimum Sum , _do 200 180 140 128 yarns per square inch. The data in appendix Weight per square yard : table 48 are similarly grouped. Maximum, ounces. . *4. 0 *4. 0 Minimum. _ do *3. 6 *3. 7 *4. 6 *4. 2 AHEA standards and revisions of tentative Breaking strength ASTM specifications recommended minimums for (grab), minimum: 4 of these types—Type 200 (percale). Type 180 Warp pounds.. *60 *60 *70 55 Fiiling do *60 *60 *70 55 (fine-count muslin), Type 140 (heavyweight mus- Ratio of wet to dry Im), and Type 128 (mediumweight muslin). The strength, minimum: fifth, Type 112, was not included because of poor Warp percent.. 1.2:1 1.2:1 1.2:1 1.2:1 serviceabUity. The AHEA standards (115) are Filling __do 1,2:1 1.2:1 1.2:1 1.2:1 given in table 11. Sizing, maximum percent. . 1.0 1.0 2. 0 4. 0 Of the 78 sheetings for which data are given in Shrinkage, minimum appendix table 48, 68 are of the types for which (in direction of greater shrinkage after 10 AHEA standards were established. Under each of power launderings or these types are some that failed to meet the min- their equivalent in an imum standards of weight and breaking strength. accelerated iabora- Of those that failed, approximately 20 percent had t o r y laundry low weight and 30 percent had low breaking- test) ____ ._ .percent. . 3. 0 3.0 3.0 3. 0 strength. SERVICEABILITY OF SHEETS.—Kelatively little *Same weights and strengths as those in Tentative Specifications for Wide Cotton Sheeting, ASTM Desig- research has been conducted on the serviceability nation: D 503-38 T, for similar sheeting types. 10 tests the sheets of Strict Good Ordinary cotton laundry. Under these conditions of use they were weaker initially and throughout their period lasted about 50 weeks of wear and laundering. of wear than those made of the other two cottons. Figure 1 shows the decrease in breaking strength, The average life of sheets made of the Good Mid- thickness, weight, and copper number. After the dling cotton was 237 launderings; the Middling, weight loss of the inner portion reached 25 percent,^ 239; and the Strict Good Ordinary, 208. Data on the sheets were no longer serviceable. the properties of the new sheets are included in In another study (4^) 58 sheets of heavy muslin appendix table 48; changes in their strength and were made of each of the 3 lots of cotton: other properties in service are shown in table 12. Lot Á: Percent In another study, sheets of the same type Strict Middling Spotted 43. 4 (mediumweight muslin) used in a women^s dor- Middling Light Spotted 40. 0 mitory were unfit for further service after 80 weeks Middling Spotted 16. 6 Lot B: of wear and 40 launderings (106), They were Strict Middling 23. 3 made of 3 varieties of cotton, Acala 8, Acala 5, and Strict Middling Spotted 3. 3 Rowden 40, which were of staple length 1, ^2 Middling ^ 73.4 and % inch, respectively. Significant differences Lot C, commercial mixture: Lot A 20.0 in their resistance to deterioration in use ^ as Lot B 80. 0 measured by weight, thickness, and breaking strength were shown by the varieties of cotton. The sheets were put in service in a Washington, The Acala 5 was the best; Acala 8 was better than D. C, hotel where the used sheets were collected Rowden 40. The changes in properties of these each morning and laundered in the hotel laundry. sheetings in service are shown in table 13; the The lengths of service of the sheetings from the 3 properties of the new sheetings are given in ap- lots of cottons (Aj B, and C) were practically pendix table 48. equal, namely: 281, 276, and 278 launderings, In an investigation in which conditions were respectively, or approximately 40 weeks. The more nearly typical of household use, 10 sheets of properties of the new sheets are reported in appen- Type 140 (heavy muslin) were put into service as dix table 48 ; changes in their properties during use, the lower sheet and used by 2 people (21), The showing their reaction to wear, are reported in sheets were laundered weekly by a commercial table 14.

.016 200 Z .012¥^ z

Ï.008

\ OUTER \ Warp ^60

TABLE 12.—Properties after repeated hotel wear and laundering oj sheets manufactured Jrom 8 grades of cotton

Yams per inch Breaking strength (strip) Shrinkage

Weight Warp I'illing Grade of cotton and times laundered per Thick- Bursting square ness strength Fluidity yard Warp Filling Section ^ Section ' Warp Filling Average Middle Middle fold Average fold

Recipro- Good Middling: Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent cal poises 0_,„- _ -. 4.07 0.009 71 63 61.7 61.6 63.8 62.4 41.5 42.5 42.1 42.0 54.6 12.1 1_ 4.10 .011 73 63 49.4 52.8 63.7 52.0 33.3 32.8 33.4 33.2 56.1 3.1 1.1 13.1 75 _ 4.02 .011 70 65 38.1 48.7 48.7 45.2 45.9 30.6 32.5 34.5 32.5 35.1 53.6 6.4 a--4.4 14.5 125_„ 3.78 .010 65 85. 6 40.3 36.6 37.5 34.8 20.1 24.9 26.2 23.7 22.2 36.1 7.4 --3.7 15.3 150_ 3.80 .010 67 29.7 32.5 32.1 31.4 32.3 16.2 18.3 18.6 17.7 20.3 31.8 6.7 -6.0 17.3 175. _. 3,78 .010 26.2 29.0 29.7 28.3 28.3 12.2 17.0 15.6 14.9 15.8 25.3 7.2 -4.2 18.1 200— 3.76 .010 20.8 27.6 25.9 24.8 27.1 8.3 14,2 13.4 12.0 12,5 22.8 7.5 --4.1 18.6 225. 3.50 .010 17.9 26.4 26.2 23.5 23.0 6,6 13,5 10.8 10.0 9.6 22.6 7.6 "4.7 18.6 240„- 3.34 .010 67 14.1 19.1 22.8 18.7 19.3 3.4 8.6 6.6 6.2 5.1 11.6 5.3 20.2 Middling: +.7 0_ 4.01 .009 62 61.2 59.2 61.5 60.6 37,9 38,7 39.2 38.6 55.0 12.2 1__ 3.98 .011 63 52.4 49.4 54.5 52.1 32.0 33,3 32.0 32.4 56.3 3.0 -h.2 12.6 75 _ 4.00 .011 67 45.1 47.0 46.2 46.1 49.3 30.2 34.5 33.5 32.7 32.8 56.3 6.5 -4.0 16. i 125- 3.76 .010 67 31.4 37.7 35.7 34.9 32.9 22.5 22.5 25.7 23.6 22.0 41.9 7.1 --4.4 15.6 150 3.64 .010 66 28.9 36.8 36.4 34.0 33.7 16.9 17.6 20.2 18.2 18.8 35.4 7.3 --5.3 17.3 175„._ __.. 3.60 .010 67 27.2 28.8 31.2 29.1 32.0 12.4 15.9 16.6 15.0 15.5 27.9 7.0 —5.3 17.8 200 _ 3.74 .010 68 22.5 28.8 28.3 26,5 27.3 10.7 13.9 13.2 12.6 10.3 23.7 7.8 -5.2 18.5 225 _„_ 3.26 .009 69 16.5 23.9 23.6 21.3 21.4 4.2 10.4 9.1 7.9 8.6 20.9 7.6 --4.0 19.6 240 _. 3.44 .009 70 17.1 24.2 21.5 20.9 20.5 4.9 8.9 6.1 6.6 6.6 16.9 6.9 +3.6 20.3 Strict Good Ordinary: 0 .___ .009 61 49.5 50.4 50.9 60.3 29.1 30.4 29.9 38.2 13.3 1 _..___.. 3.90 .011 63 43.3 45.9 45.4 44.9 28.8 29.6 27.9 28.8 40.6 2.8 .3 14. 4 75 _ 3.70 .011 65 39.2 39.8 38.8 39.3 27,4 27.6 28.9 28.0 26.5 44.7 6.5 +4.5 15.3 125_-. __, 3.44 .010 66 27.9 30.1 32.0 30.0 29.9 13.8 19.3 18,6 17.2 20.1 28.9 6.7 --4.7 16,3 150 3.50 .010 64 24.4 28.6 28.1 27.0 28.2 13.4 15.9 15.7 16.0 15.6 25.7 6.8 —6.4 17.3 165 3.38 .009 65 22.8 25.7 24.9 24.5 21.4 9.0 13.3 12.1 11.6 12.8 17.8 5.2 --3.0 18.2 175_ 3.34 .010 66 20.6 25.3 25.1 23.7 24.0 7.9 13.5 12.9 11.4 12.8 20.4 7.2 --6.7 18.3 200 , 3.24 .010 66 14.3 18.1 17.7 16.7 15.0* 3.3 7.4 8.8 6.5 8.0 14.6 8.0 --4.9 20, 7 210 _ , 3.12 ,010 65 15.1 19.0 17.6 17.2 19.4 5.5 7.8 7.8 7.0 7.4 13.6 7.9 +5.3 19.9

1 Sections: B, shoulder; C, hip; D, leg. 2 Plus indicates stretch. TABLE 13.—Properties of sheetings made of S varieties of cottonj after repeated dormitory wear and laundering

Breaking strength Weight per ■v„^„„ ,-.r^« i*,„T» square yard Thickness our milage Laundered Laundered and used Variety of cotton and times laundered Laun- Laun- Section B 2 Section 0 2 Section D * Laun- dered Laun- dered dered and dered and Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling usedi used 1 Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp FiUing

Acala 8: Ounces Ouncts Inch Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent 0 4.30 4.30 0.0100 0.0100 71.2 60.3 49.93 45.08 49.93 45.08 49.93 45.08 49.93 45.08 10 4.15 4.21 .0130 .0127 69.4 65.6 40.75 42.40 32.98 33.11 38.68 38.98 41.00 41.94 7.0 3+3.2 15 _ 4.08 3.95 .0136 .0127 69.4 65.0 40.42 41.42 28.02 25.74 36.96 35.40 39.27 39.64 20 _ 4.08 3.91 .0135 .0122 69.2 64.4 39.10 39.45 23.23 20.31 33.47 31.87 36.43 35.81 25 4.12 3.74 .0127 ,0120 70.2 64.4 37.40 39.47 20.92 17.14 28.15 26.84 30.69 30.81 30.__ 3.97 3.44 .0125 .0111 71.2 64.0 39.77 37.22 16.29 13.31 23.50 20.10 26.68 26.05 35 3.94 3.35 .0124 .0109 68.6 64.8 34.23 33.78 11.30 9.42 20.96 16.74 26.29 25.93 40 4.01 3.11 .0123 .0118 69.2 65.4 35.07 34.17 9.90 4.88 18.33 15. 95 23.45 22.49 Aeala 5; 0 4.28 4.28 .0101 .0101 70.9 61.8 49.87 43.03 49.87 43.03 49.87 43.03 49.87 43.03 10 4.07 4.13 .0131 .0124 68.8 66.8 42.45 42.77 34.05 31.87 39.49 38.02 40.60 40.78 6.9 +2.0 15_ 4.11 4.01 .0131 .0127 69.4 66.4 41.87 41.82 30.88 27.48 37.24 33.65 40.62 39.60 20 4.08 3.90 .0130 .0119 68.6 65.6 39.15 39.17 23.93 20.33 31.80 29.31 37.01 37.26 25 4.04 3.68 .0126 .0118 70.8 65.2 39.70 38.87 21.72 16.26 30.11 26.66 33.76 32.84 30 3.99 3.58 .0125 .0111 71.0 63.8 40.45 38.05 16.71 12.54 24.74 21.20 29.73 30.12 35-.._ 4.01 3.44 .0119 .0106 70.4 64.8 36.25 36.03 12.20 8.15 22.23 16.86 27.87 26.60 40 4.05 3.29 .0121 .0120 72.2 64.2 35.77 34.03 10.77 5.99 20.79 16.50 24.46 21.29 Rowden 40: 0 4.21 4.21 .0093 .0093 70.8 60.7 48.18 43.27 48.18 43.27 48.18 43.27 48.18 43.27 10 3.99 4.02 .0128 .0125 69.2 65.2 38.40 39.57 33.38 30.09 39.38 37.64 40.69 39.23 6.4 +3.2 15 3.98 3.87 ,0132 .0125 69.2 64.8 38.55 37.22 28.96 24.75 35.11 32.63 39.36 38.00 20 3.95 3.83 .0127 .0119 69.2 64.4 36.55 34.80 23.30 19.42 31.04 29.65 37.43 35.07 25 3.93 3.59 .0126 .0114 70.0 64.2 37.10 33.85 18.79 14.37 27.86 25.01 30.97 30.88 30. _ 3.89 3.35 .0124 .0109 70.6 62.2 37.50 34.25 14.31 9.14 23.70 16.90 28.51 27.69 35.._. 3.79 3.23 .0118 .0104 68.2 64.0 31.80 31.00 11.87 7.33 20.25 16.27 25.91 25.11 40 3.85 2.96 .0119 .0112 69.4 63.6 33.60 30.30 10.39 4.41 19.37 14.53 23.28 19.87

1 Middle of section C, hip. 3 Sections: B, shoulder; 0, hip; D, leg. 3 Plus indicates stretch. In a later study (54) sheets of percale, fine in most cases, their water absorption. These county two brands of mediumweight muslin, and towels, purchased on the retail market, included hesbYyweight muslin were purcliased on the retail 8 cotton, 16 linen, 16 linen and cotton, 16 rayon market and were put into service in a Washington, mixtures, and 1 hemp. D. C, hotel. For approximately 2 years, the SPECIFICATIONS FOR DISH TOWELS.—The physi- sheets were used 1 day and then sent to the hotel cal properties of the all-cotton toweling in appendix laundry. The sheets were later reissued to home- table 49 conform closely to the specifications which makers, who used them for 1-week periods and the Government uses for purchasing cotton dish regularly sent them to a commercial laundry. towels and cotton towels for drying glassware. The amount of service given by these five The weight, count, and breaking strength given groups of sheets was closely related to their in Federal Specification DDD-T-516 for cotton filling breaking strength. The heavyweight mus- dish towels (107) are as follows: lin (Type 140) sheets, both originally and during Weight per square yard, minimum ounces. _ 4. 0 service, were in general heavier, stronger, and less Yarns per inch, minimum: chemically tendered than the other classes. The Warp number-- 44 mediumweight muslin sheets (Type 128), which Filling do 42 were lowest in price, gave the least service. See Warp and filling dp 92 Breaking strength (grab), minimum: appendix table 48 and table 15 for data on the Warp pounds-- 46 properties of the sheets before and after service. Filling do 35 Toweling The Federal Specification DDD-T-501c for Fabrics of various fibers and constructions are plain-weave cotton towels {114) used for drying glassware gives the following weighty count, and used for towels. Because absorbency is a prop- breaking strength : erty needed in towels, they usually are made of cotton, linen, viscose, or a combination of these Class Class fibers. A warp-pile fabric, turkish toweling, or A B Weight per square yard ounces - - 5. 1 5. 5 terry cloth, is common for bath towels and wash- Yarns per inch: cloths. Fabrics of such constructions as crash, Warp number-- 54 36 buck, and honeycomb are used for dish and hand Filling do 38 29 towels. Breaking strength (grab) : Warp pounds-_ 50 50 Dish Towels Filling do 50 40 In appendix table 49 are reported the physical Only 1 buck towel (No. 22) is hsted in appendix properties of 57 dish-towel materials, including. table 49. It is linen and has more yarns per inch 13 TABLE 14.—Properties after repeated hotel wear and laundering of sheets manufactured from S lots of cotton

Breaking strength (strip) Elongation Yams per Weight inch Burst- Material ^ and per Thick- Section A a Section B * Section C ^ Section D a Section A 2 Section B » Section C 3 Section D 3 ing Fluidity times laundered square ness strength yard Warp Filling Warp Fining Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp FiUmg Warp FiUing Warp Füling Warp Filling Warp FiUing

Reciprocal Lot A: Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Founds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent Percent Percent Percent Percent Percent Percent Pounds poises 0 4.61 0.010 77.0 67.4 63.7 56.4 63.5 54.2 63.9 54.9 6.7 17.6 7.2 18.2 7.1 18.6 76 11.2 25 _. 4.94 ,012 76.2 72.0 49.0 49.6 48.6 49.7 50.2 50.1 50.3 63.3 11.7 15.4 12.3 15.0 11.6 16.1 12.7 16.8 66 13.1 60 5.02 .012 76.0 72.2 40.6 42.1 38.6 41.4 42.5 38.9 40.6 42.4 10.8 13.2 10.9 13.9 10.8 13.5 10.9 13.9 62 14.5 75 4.81 .012 76.1 73.9 40.1 39.6 37.9 38.1 40.5 40.7 41.1 42.5 9.0 10.1 8.7 10,2 8.6 10.3 9.0 10.0 64 15.0 100 -.. 5.01 .011 74.9 74.8 29.2 30.7 31.3 27.2 32.0 32.9 30.8 31.7 10.5 12.0 10.4 11,5 10.5 13.2 10.7 11.9 52 16.0 126 4.98 .011 74.4 75.0 25.9 24.0 23.4 22.3 28.8 27.1 29.7 27.1 7.8 8.4 7.8 8.4 8.9 10.3 8.9 9.1 48 16.5 150 4.97 .011 74.1 73.1 25.7 23.9 23.0 20.0 28.0 26.5 30.0 27.7 7.8 7.7 7.3 7.0 7.6 8.3 8.9 8.6 40 18.1 175 _-._ 4.74 .011 74.8 73.9 22.5 15.9 18.1 13.8 25.4 21.1 26.6 22.3 8.8 7.6 7.6 7.3 9.3 9.1 9.1 8.6 33 19.4 200 -_ 4.57 .011 74.5 73.9 20.6 16.6 17.2 12.0 25.1 19.0 26.0 21.2 7.9 7.7 7.7 7.3 8.5 9.0 9.3 8.4 31 20.1 225 4.50 .011 74.8 73.6 17.6 11.9 12.6 8.0 21.6 14.0 21.8 17.11 8.4 7.8 7.6 6.3 8.6 8.2 9.2 8.4 26 21.3 250 4.50 .011 74.5 73.6 15.8 11.6 13.9 8.1 20.0 15.5 20.7 17.7 7.1 5.5 6.3 4.7 7.5 7.4 8.4 7.6 26 22.0 275 4.20 .011 73.4 73.6 14.4 8.9 9.8 6.8 17.5 11.9 19.9 15.5 7.7 5.9 5.8 5.8 8.3 7.3 9.8 7.8 18 22.5 LotB: Q 4.66 .010 76.8 68.4 65.8 58.7 66.0 60.6 65.4 61.4 7.7 16.4 8.2 16.8 8.1 16.7 78 10.9 25 . 5.07 .012 76.0 72.9 62.6 53.1 49.9 52.6 53.8 53.0 52.4 54.0 13.0 16.0 12.7 16.9 13.6 18.1 13.7 17.6 77 12.5 50 5.12 .012 75.9 74.3 39.9 43.7 40.5 42.2 41.9 41.0 39.5 41.3 10.4 12.4 10.9 13.3 11.2 13.6 11.5 12.1 72 14.4 75 4.99 .011 75.3 73.7 41.6 44.1 40.6 39.9 43.4 44.6 42.7 43,4 8.5 9.5 8.5 9.3 8.7 10.7 8.9 9.8 73 14.6 100 5.07 . 012 75.4 74.1 33.7 33.9 30.6 27.8 34.3 34.5 35.4 35.8 10.3 12.1 10.3 ILO 11.1 12.0 10.8 11.7 56 15.8 125 5.14 .011 74.8 74.6 31.9 28.9 27.6 23.8 31.2 31.8 31.4 31.7 8.7 7.8 8.4 8.8 8.8 9.8 9.1 8.5 52 16.3 150 5.02 .011 74.6 73.5 29.2 25.0 24.7 20.8 29.8 29.7 32.5 29.9 8.6 8.0 7.8 7.3 8.2 9,1 9.0 8.6 41 17.9 175 __ 4.83 .011 75.0 74.1 22.1 19.4 19.8 13.2 26.5 19.9 28.0 24.4 9.2 8.7 8.4 7.4 9.4 9.1 10.0 9.8 36 18.7 200-._. 4.61 .011 74.6 74.4 20.3 19.3 19.6 13.9 26.2 19.9 26.8 24.1 8.8 8.5 8.2 7.0 9.5 9.4 10.0 9.2 32 20.1 225 4.67 .011 74.8 74.4 19.2 15.5 15.3 10.2 24.9 19.3 24.9 20.8 9.4 8.1 8.2 6.8 9.3 9.2 10.0 9.2 30 21.0 250 4.58 .011 74.5 74.8 16.3 12.1 11.6 8.6 18.9 12.3 19.1 15.8 7.6 6.1 6.2 4.7 7.4 6.3 8.3 7.2 24 21.8 275 4.43 .011 74.6 73.8 15.6 10.9 12.3 6.8 19.2 14.9 20.6 19.0 7.7 6.9 6.7 4.8 8.1 7.9 9.6 8.6 22 22.2 LotC: 0 4.75 .011 76.5 69.0 64.6 60.6 66.3 63.0 65.9 63.6 8.1 17.6 8.7 18.1 8.3 17.6 83 10.9 25 5:08 .012 76.0 74.0 50.7 55.9 48.7 54.0 49.0 48.6 46.3 54.7 14.7 17,5 13.2 16.8 12.7 16.4 13.5 15.9 76 12.7 50 5.15 .011 75.8 74.3 37.2 42.6 38.2 41.0 40.3 45.8 42.1 44.0 10.6 13.0 10.6 13.2 11.1 13.9 11.1 13.1 66 14.4 75 4.88 .011 75.4 75.7 39.7 46.4 39.0 45.0 42.7 45.8 39.3 45.4 9.2 11.1 8.9 10.8 9.2 11.5 9.1 10.7 73 14.6 100-.-. 5.10 .011 75.2 75.3 32.0 30.6 29.5 30.2 34.7 31.7 35.9 39.0 11.5 12.1 11.0 13.1 10.9 13.5 11.0 13.5 56 15.6 125 5.04 .011 74.7 75.7 28.2 28.4 25.2 25.1 32.5 32.6 32.9 33.8 8.3 9.4 8.1 9.2 8.9 10.1 9.3 9.8 52 16.5 150-.- 4.98 .011 73.9 73.7 26.6 26.3 24.6 21.3 32.2 28.4 30.5 29.2 7.5 8.3 7.6 7.8 9.1 9.3 9.6 8.8 42 18.0 175 _- 4.72 .011 74.9 75.3 24.4 20.1 20.2 16.2 26.9 23.2 28.5 25.4 9.0 9.1 8.8 8.2 8.8 9.4 9.3 9.3 35 18.9 200 4.70 .011 75.1 74.8 20.7 16.4 18.2 11.9 26.6 20.6 25.9 22.3 8.9 8.0 7.7 7.0 9.0 9.7 9.7 9.4 33 19.9 225 4.72 .011 75.4 76.2 18.6 14.6 14.4 9.8 24.9 18.0 26.3 20,3 8.8 8.2 7.9 7.3 9.2 9.7 9,7 9.7 30 21.2 260 4.80 .011 74.7 75.4 15.6 12.9 12.8 9.2 20.3 16.2 21.3 18.4 7.3 6.4 6.4 5-3 8.0 7.5 8.5 7.9 28 22.2 275 4.57 .011 74.9 75.5 15.5 U.8 12.2 6.5 19.0 14.5 21.8 18.1 7.8 6.8 6.8 5.2 8.7 8.1 10.0 8.7 22 22.5

' For description of cottons see p 11. 2 Sections: A, pillow; B, shoulder; C, hip; D, 1 TABLE 15.--Properties of 5 commercial lots of sheets after various periods of hotel service

Breaking strength Weight Yarns per inch Shrinkage Types of sheet and per Thick- (strip) days of service square ness Fluidity yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Reciprocal Percale: Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Percent Percent poises 0 3.84 0.008 107 102 52.2 63.8 12 7 50 3.74 .009 103 108 43.2 52.4 6.8 1 +1.1 15 8 100 3.90 .009 103 106 38,9 42.6 7.4 + 1.8 17 6 125 ------. 3.86 .009 102 108 36.2 40. 4 7.9 + 1.9 18 9 Fine count: 0 . 3.96 .009 96 90 57.9 51.4 9. 6 50 4. 02 .010 93 97 45.7 48.8 9.4 + 3.4 11 2 100 4.20 -.011 93 98 46.0 44 6 9.2 + 2.1 12 0 115 - 4. 16 .011 95 100 42.6 41.8 9.5 .4 13 3 Mediumweight muslin 0 4.20 .011 70 65 67.3 47.2 9. 6 50 4.22 .012 72 67 51.8 40.6 4 7 + 1.9 10 7 100 _ 4.10 .012 68 68 44 1 34 6 7.5 +4 6 13 6 125 4.42 .012 69 67 42.8 32.9 7.7 + 4 2 15 8 150 . - 4.36 .013 69 69 40.0 33.8 6.3 + 2.7 16 3 Mediumweight musHn II: 0 4.40 .011 73 63 56.6 45.3 13 1 50 4 06 .012 70 67 39.5 44 5 7.9 * + 5. 5 15 0 100 4.34 .012 71 65 39. 1 38.2 5.7 + 1.8 17 2 125 - 4.20 .012 69 68 37.0 34 1 7.6 + 5.1 18 S 150 __ 4.34 .013 69 67 32.7 34 9 7.5 + 4 1 19 4 Heavyweight muslin: 0 4.62 .011 76 71 69.6 63.8 12 2 50 . - _. 4 78 .012 74 74 57.9 59.0 6.5 + 3.9 14 1 100„ _ _ 4 98 .012 74 76 55.2 58.5 6.6 + 2.1 15 2 115 4 82 .012 73 73 48.9 52.9 7.5 + 3.5 15 g

1 Plus indicates stretch. and a much higher breaking strength than that Weight per square yard____^ ounces._ 7. 8 Yarns per inch : required by the Federal Specification DDD-T- Warp number__ ' 24 531a for cotton huck towels (lOO)j which is shown Filling do 19 below: Breaking strength (grab) : Warp pounds _ _ 70 Dimensions: Filling do 60 Width ___-- inches., 17 Length -do 26 SERVICEABILITY OF DISH TOWELS.—Towels made Weight per dozen, minimum pounds. _ 2. 55 Yarns per inch, minimum: of several of the towelings listed in appendix table Warp number__ 52 49 were put in service. Filling: The first study (63) was reported in 1942. Dish 2-ply do 26 towels composed of 45 percent of spun rayon, 38 Singles do 52 percent of cotton, and 17 percent of linen (No. 44, Ply: Warp do 2 appendix table 49) were put in service in 2 homes Filling do 1 or 2 in which washing procedures differed. Each Breaking strength (grab), minimum: towel was used for drying the dishes for the 3 Warp pounds.- 70 Filling -do 60 meals of 1 day and then laundered. In procedure 1 the towels were washed by machine with an Of the 16 all-linen towels listed in appendix alkaH and a bleach at 160*^ F. and rinsed at 140°. table 49 nearly all had more yarns per inch than In procedure 2 they were washed by machine at is required by the Federal Specification for linen 120^ and rinsed at 120° without an alkali, bleach, towels for drying glassware. Approximately one- or sour. The dish towels laundered by procedure half met the specification for strength but only 1 deteriorated more but were whiter than those two that for weight as stated in the physical re- laundered by procedure 2 (table 16). No towels quirements of linen towels in Federal Specification laundered by procedure 2 were discarded during DDD-T-536a (108): the 50 periods of wear and laundering. On the Dimensions : other hand, 7 of the towels laundered by pro- Width inches.- 16 cedure 1 were discarded after an average of 38.7 Length (before hemming) do 32 periods of wear. 15 TABLE 16.-—Properties of rayon-cotton-linen dish towels given various amounts of home service and laundered by S procedures ^

Breaking strength Laundering procedure and times Weight Yarns per inch (strip) laundered per square Thickness Fluidity yard Warp Filling Warp Filling

Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Rhes Before laundering 7.03 0. 0175 41 27 80.5 40.3 13. 1 7.27 .0178 43 30 81.0 41.5 11. 6 Procedure 1 (160^ F. wash, 120° rinse, with alkali and bleach) : 10 7.40 0243 42 32 59.2 32.6 24.6 10_ 7.73 .0255 43 32 62.6 33.6 25.2 20 6.80 0233 41 32 49. 2 28.3 25.7 20 6.90 0238 42 31 50.4 30.7 25.3 30 7.00 0243 43 31 44.2 29.7 26.8 30 6.37 0233 42 31 36.8 18.5 30.2 Procedure 2 (120° F. wash, 120° rinse, without alkali, sour, or bleach) : 10 . 7.90 .0268 42 32 61.8 44. 2 14.0 10 -.__- 7.50 .0263 42 32 63, 1 41.8 13.8 20 8. 00 .0283 42 32 54.5 40.8 15.0 20 7.70 .0262 41 32 53.8 39. 1 15,8 30 7.63 .0263 42 32 49. 0 37.8 15.8 30 7.60 .0255 41 33 44.6 41.2 17.0 43 6.87 .0255 41 27 34. 2 28,2 19.0 43_. 7.70 .0248 42 31 37.9 31. 1 18.8 50 7. 13 .0238 41 32 36.4 33.4 18.5 50 6.80 .0235 41 28 33.8 28.0 17.8

^ Data given for 2 towels at each interval of service.

TABLE 17.—Properties of linen and linen-cotton dish towels before and after service

Breaking strength (strip) Water absorption; Weight x?"„*.„« , r^r.^ X^^X, increase in weight Fabric and times per Thick- in— laundered square ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Bry Wet Dry Wet 30 min. 90 min.

Linen A: Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent 0 __ _ __ 7.1 0. 0013 30 28 57 86 49 74 37 89 5 6.3 .0030 223 2fi7 10 _ 6.5 .0030 31 29 42 39 61 78 266 306 15_ _ _ - -- _- _ 6. 1 . 0030 31 29 38 36 70 278 339 20 5. 6 .0030 31 29 29 25 45 48 200 276 30 5.3 .0032 31 29 21 17 37 34 184 319 Linen B: 0 . --- 6.2 .0014 29 25 40 61 42 66 23 81 5_-- 6.8 .0032 243 288 10 6,2 .0031 30 27 35 38 34 46 243 275 15 5.8 .0034 29 27 29 29 29 34 307 369 20 _ 5.0 . 0032 29 27 27 25 28 30 256 382 30 4,7 .0032 29 27 17 16 21 18 191 328 Linen C: 0 __ - 6. 1 .0012 35 31 72 70 70 119 175 5 - 5.2 .0025 272 277 10 . _ - 5.4 .0025 35 35 36 50 45" 49 272 292 15 5.4 .0026 34 34 35 48 44 53 256 290 20 - _ 5.1 .0027 34 35 28 33 34 34 252 303 30_ -_ 5. 2 . 0029 34 34 24 23 30 30 181 264 Linen-cotton D: 0 . _ _-- - 7.5 . 0017 42 27 85 96 61 71 134 186 5_,.. 8.2 .0035 202 238 10 _ _- - 8,6 .0035 42 33 72 81 64 71 204 239 15- __ 8.8 .0037 42 33 65 69 58 60 178 229 20_ 8.4 .0036 42 33 62 64 bb 53 154 216 30 8.5 .0038 42 33 50 50 47 45 124 196 16 TABLE 17.- —Properties of linen and linen-cotton dish towels before and after service--Continued

Breaking strength (strip) Water absorption; Weight Yarns per inch increase in weight Fabric and times per Thick- in — laundered square ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet 30 min. 90 min.

Linen-cotton E : Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent 0 _ _ _ 5,3 0. 0010 39 31 40 55 49 79 49 110 5_-. 5.5 .0024 ^_ 229 251 10 5.5 .0025 40 36 41 45 70 87 258 276 15_ - __- 5.5 .0026 40 36 37 38 63 77 226 293 20„_ _ 5.4 .0027 40 35 31 27 53 60 166 259 30 _- 5.1 .0027 40 36 28 27 44 46 199 276 Linen-cotton F: 0 5.7 . 0013 38 30 63 73 50 66 15 37 5__ 6. 1 .0029 214 271 10 6.5 .0029 40 34 58 64 55 61 255 302 15 _ 6.3 .0030 39 34 51 57 41 46 206 293 20 6.3 .0029 40 33 45 50 36 36 212 278 SO 6.4 .0031 40 35 40 42 30 29 158 258

In another ^tudy (78) towels made from 3 all- for turkish toweling by the American Society for linen and from 3 linen-cotton (cotton warp and Testing Materials in which the following classifi- linen filling) fabrics listed in appendix table 49 cation was established on the basis of the ply of were put in service for drying dishes in the lab- the ground warp yarns and the ratio of the number oratories of the Bureau of Human Nutrition and of pile yarns to the number of ground warp yarns Home Economics. After each day's service they per inch: were laundered. None of the towels gave superior service. All had decreased considerably in strength Type 1 : Single ply; 2 to 1 ratio. after 30 periods of wear (table 17). Type 2: Single ply; 1 to 1 ratio. In a more recent study (90) towels made of Type 3: Double ply; 2 to 1 ratio. 26 of the towelings in appendix table 49 were Type 4: Double ply; 1 to 1 ratio. given out for use in various homes. The towels were used and laundered 50 times, then returned In this classification Types 1 and 3*have double to the laboratory for testing. The materials in- loops and Types 2 and 4 have single loops for the cluded 4 linens, 8 cottons, 6 cotton and linen pile. mixtures (warp and filling cotton with small The Standard Specifications for the 4 types amount of linen), and 8 rayon mixtures (rayon warp and linen-rayon filling). of turkish towels, ASTM Designation: D 505-40 (46f p^ 144) give weight, count, and breaking During 50 launderings, weight decreased in the strength as shown in table 19. all-linen towels and rayon mixtures but not in the cotton and part-cotton towels. Shrinkage was The physical requirements in Federal Specifi- greater in the cotton-linen and all-cotton than in cation DDD-T-551b (iO^) by which the Govern- the all-linen and the rayon mixtures. Dry break- ment purchases terry towels are given in table 20. ing strength decreased most in the all-linen towels SERVICEABILITY OF TURKISH TOWELS.—In 1938 and rayon mixtures (table 18). a service study (40) was reported in which a dozen each of 4 qualities of turkish towels (Nos. 4, 13, Turkish Towels 32, and 37 of appendix table 50), purchased in With a view to providing consumers with guides retail stores, were issued to persons cooperating for purchasing turldsh towels, an effort was made in the study. Two of the qualities had a single- in 1938 to compare the qualities of the turkish ply ground warp with 2 pile ends (double loop) towels then on the market (23j 37), The findings woven as one; 2 had a 2-ply ground warp and single are reported in appendix table 50. Weight and pile ends (single loop). The most expensive yarns per inch in ground warp and filling of approx- towels had a higher warp breaking strength and a imately 95 percent of the towels listed in the higher weight per square yard than the cheaper table exceed 8.0 ounces per square yard and 21X ones. As service continued, the breaking and 25 yarns per inch. bursting strength of all 4 groups of towels de- SPéCIFICATIONS FOR TURKISH TOWELS.—These creased while the chemical deterioration increased studies led to the development of specifications (table 21).

17 TA-Bhrn is:—Properties of dish towels oj dißererit fiber corhposiîion hejore arid aß^^ home service and BO launderings

Weight Yarns per incl] Breaking strength (strip) Shrinkage In- Water ab- per sorption; square increase yard Fabricana After 50 launderings 1 laundering 50 launderings in weight item New After 50 New, number launderings Dry After Dry Wet After After 50 New Warp Filling 1 50 laun- Warp Filling laun- laun- derings Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling dering derings

Num- Num- Num,- Num- Per- Per- Per- Per- Per* Per- Linen* Ounces Ounces ber ber ber ber Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds cent cent cent cent cent cent 6. 760 4.742 26 22 26 22 90.0 68.2 15.7 12,1 16.1 7.8 2.57 2.16 2.60 4.66 160.25 240.84 6.843 5.347 32 28 31 28 72.4 60.6 22.1 18.3 19.1 15.7 3.24 .64 3.94 2.62 122.19 187.15 3 5. 745 5.630 65 37 61 41 116. 7 47.0 46.3 20.5 35.7 21.5 5.58 !+1.66 7.02 1.35 105. 50 113.62 4.„._..-_ 6.886 5.460 32 34 32 55.2 75.6 29.0 > 22.1 23.2 16.1 2.50 .20 1.74 4.72 100,70 164.67 All-cotton: 1 5.428 6.405 42 66 56.3 40.4 27.0 27.5 23.5 22.3 6.23 1.12 11.05 1.62 100.01 83.22 2 4, 637 3,890 52 50 38.2 43.8 13.8 16.7 11.2 11.2 ,83 4-1.27 7.19 +5.02 253.23 177.81 3 4.238 4.608 27 35 30 40.8 41.2 13.8 16.3 12.7 14.6 3.91 -f,68 12.49 3.93 165.44 231.35 4 -. 5.988 6.416 43 65 64.2 47.8 28.7 29.8 31.3 24.3 6.59 ,29 11.20 +1.02 122.05 109.10 5 —. 7.343 8.657 32 38 64.2 65.0 23.3 24.2 24.0 20.0 3,87 .36 9.62 ,33 181.92 173.50 5.613 5.840 41 69 88.6 49.6 40.7 30.2 37.2 29.2 4.16 +1,58 8.05 .81 129. 63 117.83 5.402 5.930 113 68 117 100.4 79.6 66.7 67.3 51.7 39.6 4.36 +1.11 11.50 +.56 122. 78 81.95 7.419 8. 554 112 67 116 116.7 89.4 68.3 54.8 63.6 63.5 5.58 +1.84 10.93 +2.21 130.40 107.78 Cotton-linen r 1_ -. 6.951 7.308 40 32 40 64.8 46.0 27.6 27.3 21.5 22.3 5.88 2.62 11,63 .61 155.73 127.48 2.._- 5.951 6.293 31 25 33 48.8 38.0 21,3 18.4 16.0 17,3 5.38 1.81 10.70 3.20 186. 50 196.96 7.496 8.748 64 44 67.0 64.2 39,2 37.8 37.2 31.2 7.97 +1.16 14.51 +.26 149.77 118. 22 8.035 8.717 40 41 79.6 60.2 44.8 38.7 43.2 10.10 .90 12.64 4.44 49.21 108.80 5.746 7.012 32 34 64.8 47.6 34.8 31.2 33.8 8.73 .69 12.21 4.21 78.83 190.97 6.527 6.658 33 34 61.8 49.6 29.5 29.0 28.5 28.0 +.61 11.78 3.65 69.90 206.24 Rayon mixtures: 1.... 8.642 7.527 29 69.4 76.6 42.3 27.8 13.1 18.3 6,49 +,73 5.96 .10 186.75 208.72 7.247 7.166 67.4 59.8 42.7 31.8 12.5 13.7 6.15 +1.97 5.58 2.53 216. 23 252,20 8.146 7.425 71.2 63.6 23.6 16.3 8.6 9.2 6.27 +,79 5.22 1,34 190.25 230.49 4..__ 8.828 8.202 87.0 61.8 67.7 34.5 17.8 15.0 5.61 3.83 6.01 6.79 169.64 183.29 6 .-.. 7.994 6.799 67.6 63.8 ao.i 30.1 8.6 14.3 4.70 +1.83 6.31 .85 191.99 251.70 8.733 7.645 65.6 79.4 41,3 42.0 13.3 22.8 4.52 2,14 4.41 +.67 213.13 207.51 8.548 6.684 95.6 85.0 66,3 17.8 34.2 17,2 5.03 +.74 6.00 2.73 166.11 172.17 6.632 6.627 33 65.2 64.8 38.2 26.2 16.5 14. 5 5.45 2.19 6.94 4.79 169, 78 219.28

1 Plus indicates stretch. TABIJ'E 19.—ASTM specifications for 4- types of Upholstery Fabrics turkish towels (Designation: D 505-4.0) In 1938 a laboratory study (89) of 62 upholstery fabrics indieated that it is impossible to predict Property Type Type Type Type 1 2 3 4 the wearing qualities of these materials merely by examining them in the store. As a guide for purchasers, the fabric classification given in appendix Weight per square yard, minimum ounces. _ 8 8 10 11 table 51 was suggested, Eecommended minimum Yarns per inch, minimum: requirements for friezes, rib weaves, and damask Ground warp nu mber_ _ 22 26 26 30 are given in table 22. Pile _do 44 26 52 30 Grades were suggested for the damask-brocade Filling. _ do,___ 26 30 32 34 Breaking strength (ravel group and for the rib weaves. The differentia- strip) minimum: tion between grades A and B was set at the Warp pounds. _ 18 26 34 44 obvious gap between qualities which appeared Pilling do 30 30 34 34 when an array of the breaking strengths in each ^i„__ ^^g made. The grade was based on the

TABLE 20.—Federal specification for terry towels (DDD-T-551b, 1950)

Dimensions Weight Ply of yarns Breaking strength finished, per Yarns per inch, (grab), minimum Type and class mmimum dozen, minimum mini- Warp mum Filling Warp Filling Width Length Warp Filling Ground Pile

Type I, single loop : Inches Inches Pounds Number Number Number Number Number Pounds Pounds Class A___ 22 44 6.8 68 32 2or 1 2orl 1 40 35 Type II, double loop : Glass B-1.. 22 44 8.5 84 42 2or 1 45 40 Glass B-2_._ _ 17 29 4.3 84 42 2 or 1 45 40 Glass B-3 _ 20 40 7.0 84 42 2 or 1 45 40 Class G ,_ - _ 22 44 8.6 96 48 2 or 1 2 or 1 68 60 Class D 20 40 5.5 71 32 2or 1 45 40

18 TABLE 21 .—Properties of 4 qualities of cotton turkish towels before and aft er home laundering

Yarns per inch Shrinkage Water absorption Breaking stre igth Weight (strip) Towe! quality ^ and per Thick- Bursting times laundered square ness 2 strength First 6- Second Fluidity yard Ground Pile Filling Length Width Area minute 6-niinute period period Warp Filling

Recipro- lA: Ounces Inch Number Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent Percent Inches Inches cal poises n 9.44 0.072 24.0 48.0 31.5 28.8 31.8 5ñ 7.4 2.9 4.5 9.76 .094 23.6 47.5 33.2 27.2 31.6 48 4.28 -1.84 2.52 7.8 3.1 6.5 20 - 3.3 7.2 40 - 9.41 .092 23.2 46.2 33.0 22.5 28.2 35 4.98 - -2.10 2.97 8.1 9.70 .088 23.6 46.5 33.7 18.0 20.6 34 4.66 -1.86 2.93 6.6 2.6 10.2 60 11.9 80 9.39 .090 24.3 47.8 33.8 17.6 21.2 26 5.38 -4.92 .72 7.4 3.0 100 9.09 .085 23.1 45.9 33.0 13.3 16.0 30 3.57 -4.82 +1.07 6.6 2.7 13.3 IB: 8.25 .066 22.2 43.5 25.2 19.6 38.4 33 6.7 2.6 6.6 2.8 8.3 20 8.34 .082 21.1 42.4 27.0 15.9 37.9 35 4.88 +3.28 1.75 6.8 7.96 .081 21.7 42.8 26.9 13.8 35.8 37 4.48 +4.04 .62 8.2 3.2 9.1 40 - 11.2 60 8.08 .079 21.2 41.2 26.9 11.1 25.8 27 5.20 +3.73 1.66 6.6 2.7 7.89 .076 21.9 43.0 28.2 9.2 22.8 30 4.74 +3.40 1.49 6.9 2.8 12.4 80 ~ 2.8 14.4 100 7.00 .065 21.6 41.8 27.6 6.7 16.2 24 5.43 +4.61 1.07 7.1 4A; 13.50 .098 39.5 38.6 38.2 57.6 34.9 84 6.0 1.8 6.6 13.88 .118 38.0 38.9 41.8 49.6 34.8 66 5.97 hl. 98 4.11 7.8 3.0 8.1 20 10.1 40 13.67 .116 38.8 38.8 41.2 48.2 34.6 47 6.79 - - .66 6.18 8.2 3.2 7.6 2.7 12,1 60 13.61 .116 38.8 38.2 42.0 41.1 27.8 56 6.00 hl. 62 4.47 13.62 .116 39.0 38.8 41.4 39.0 26.2 46 7.20 -1.30 5.99 7.6 2.9 12.9 80 7.0 2.7 14.6 100 13.64 .110 38.9 38.8 42.1 36.5 22.5 48 6.34 +1.93 3.61 4B: n 12.95 .092 38.6 38.1 38.1 54.3 36.8 82 5.2 2.1 8.8 7.4 3.0 10.3 20 13.90 .118 38.5 38.4 40.2 48.6 36.2 72 6.02 5.33 13.74 .118 38.7 38.5 39.7 45.2 33.1 74 3.68 "■-.It 3.87 9.0 3.4 11.4 40 3.0 14.1 60 13.06 .110 38.6 38.6 40.4 38.9 29.0 60 3.40 2.60 7.8 13.64 .115 38.8 38.6 40.2 37.8 28.5 55 4.38 4.52 7.1 3.0 14.6 80 - -- 3.2 15.4 100 14.12 .112 38.3 37.9 40.7 33.2 22.7 54 2.19 +1.21 1.01 7.9 1— 1 lA and IB (Type 1), smgle-ply ground warp with half as many ground as 3 At pressure of 1 pound per square inch, pile ends. 4A and 4B {Type 4), 2-piy ground warp with an equal number of » Plus indicates stretch. ground and pile ends. warpwise or fiUingwise strength, whichever was In table 23 are given not only the yarn count, the weaker. For the friezes, lower limits were weight per square yard, and breaking strength proposed for only one group, and the difference of these materials, but also their reaction to abra- in fiber content of the pile was set at the distin- sion since that is the chief type of wear to which guishing mark of quality. such fabrics are subjected. For convenience and This study was supplemented in 1943 by an identification purposes, 10 fabrics with a total analysis of tapestry upholstery fabrics, comparable count of less than 225 yarns to the inch were to household materials, which the U. S. Navy designated as Group A and the 11 materials with Department was purchasing on contract, and simi- more than 225 yarns to the inch as Group B. lar fabrics selected from sample swatches on file These designations have no reference to quality. in the Bureau of Supplies and Accounts of the An outstanding finding among the fabrics was Navy Department—a total of 21 fabrics {63), the much greater variabüity in breaking strength These fabrics are Nos. 64 to 84 in appendix table and in resistance to abrasion than in weight and 51. count. Minimum yarn count, weight, and also

TABLE 22.—Proposed minimum requirements for frieze, rib weave, and damask upholstery fabrics ^

Breaking strength Weight Weight Tufts of of pile Class of fabric and per square pile per New cloth After abrasion 2 grade per square yard inch yard Warp Filling Total Warp Filling Total

Ounces Number Ounces Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Friezes-_ _ _ _ 15.5 365 5.5 95 80 180 95 65 170 Rib weaves; Orade A 11.0 90 85 190 45 70 130 Grade B 8.0 50 65 125 20 30 55 Dam&sk and brocades: CfVfïAe. A 9.0 95 95 200 60 65 125 Grade B 7. 5 60 60 130 35 40 80

1 Eecommended by U. S. Bureau of Home Economics, 2 10,000 rubs on Wyzenbeek Precision Wear Tester. 1938 {39), 19 TABLE 23.—Analysis of êî upholstery tapestries

Breaking strength (strip) Yarns per inch 2 Group 1 and item Weight number New cloth After abrasion ^ Change in strength ^ per square yard Warp Filling Warp Pilling Warp Fining Warp Fining

Group A Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent Ounces 1___ 140 64 96 126 49 103 50.5 15. 5 144 16.3 63 109 145 90 138 15.8 4.2 16.0 3___ 147 67 129 151 125 116 3.2 23.2 4___ 135 15.9 79 60 127 56 109 6.6 14.2 12.4 5___ 131 76 ^ 112 191 85 96 24. 1 49.7 15.4 6___ 137 79 66 130 63 105 5.9 19.2 7___ 131 13,0 70 106 172 104 131 2.8 23. 8 16.0 8___ 156 51 122 150 106 77 13. 1 48. 6 9_-_ 159 16.0 44 124 122 53 51 57.2 57. 8 13.4 10__ 139 56 124 129 63 98 49. 2 23.4 Group B 12.4 ll-_ 179 77 97 98 96 82 + 2.1 9.8 15.0 12__ 175 89 114 97 69 99 38.4 + 1.0 13__ 213 14.7 72 131 115 89 112 32. 1 1.0 14. 6 14__ 184 76 131 164 127 149 2.3 10. 2 176 14. 9 15__ 79 172 105 135 117 21.5 + 12.5 14. 0 16__ 174 79 135 107 100 122 26.5 + 14.0 14.2 175 17_- 77 140 114 123 106 13.4 6.2 14.4 18-_ 176 79 197 116 137 111 29.4 6. 1 14. 2 19__ 173 ^/7 113 74 65 54 42.9 26.0 14.2 20,- 175 77 144 116 98 109 35. 5 7. 6 14.2 21_. 172 78 138 93 125 95 8.7 + 2il 14.2

1 Group A, less than 225 yarns per inch: Group B, more ^ After 10,000 rubs on Wyzenbeek abrasion machine. than 225 yarns per inch, * Loss, except where otherwise indicated. 2 Average of 8 counts. colorfastness were found insufRcient criteria upon The physical requirements for the four types are which to base the selection of durable upholstery given in tables 24, 25, 26, and 27. fabric. As a result of this study of tapestries, the investi- TABLE 24.—Federal specification for upholstery gators (^^) proposed the following minimum fabrics: Type I (flat fabrics), minimum physical requirements for two classes of this type of fabric: requirements {CCC-F~66a, 1963) (Cotton warp; Under Over cotton^ linen^ or rayon filling) 2-26 226 yarns yarns per per Yarns per inch Weight per inch inch Item Weight per square yard ounces-- 13. 0 14. 0 Fabric linear Yarns per inch: No. yard (54 Warp _ mimber__ 135 170 Warp Fining inches Filling. -,___do 50 70 wide) Breaking strength: Warp_ pounds.. 80 100 Filling . do 100 120 Number Number Ounces 1 Brocatelle _ _ _ 170 85 SPECIFICATIONS FOR UPHOLSTERY FABRICS.—The 2 Damask_ . 170 50 19 Government has specifications CCC-F-66a (113) 3 Matelasse _„ _ 170 75 22 4 Tapestry. _ 132 60 9i> for purchasing four types of upholstery fabrics. 5 Novelty fabric 94 48 20' Under each type there are several fabrics. ^

20 TABLE 25.—Federal specification jor upholstery fabrics: Type II (loop pile fabrics)j minimum physical requirements {CCC-F-66a, 1953)

Yarns per inch Weight per Pile linear yard (54 Item loops Fabric name Warp per inches wide) Materials No. square Filling inch Pile Stuffer Ground Pile Total 1

Number Number Number Number Number Ounces Ounces 6 Plain rib frieze, 36 72 18 29. 522 12.5 29 Face warp, 100 percent mohair; back warp and filling, 100 percent cotton. 7 Plain frieze 9 72 18 23 103 17 33 Face warp, not less than 50 percent wool or mohair; back warp and filling, 100 percent cotton. 8 Pattern frieze 26 24 2 312 9 24 Face warp, not less than 50 percent wool or mohair; back warp and filling, 100 percent cotton. 1 Exclusive of synthetic-rubber latex coating. 2 Computed on the basis of 100 percent coverage. Pattern frieze shall have pile loops covering at least 50 percent of the area.

TABLE 2Q.—Federal specification for upholstery fabrics: Type III {cut pile fabrics), minimum physical requirements {CGC-F-eßa, 1953)

■ Yarns per inch Tufts Weight per (double) Over- linear yard (54 Item Fabric Weave Warp per all inches wide) Pile material No. square thick- Filling inch ness Ground Pile Pile Total

Number Number Number Number Inch Ounces Ounces 9 Mohair velvet _. 4-pick W_ 28 28 48 385 0.130 15 25 100 percent mohair, 10 do 2-pick V- 54 27 30 405 .140 12 119 11 Velour_ 2.pick V_ 40 40 36 560 .085 16/4 22 100 percent cotton.

1 Exclusive of synthetic-rubber latex coating.

TABLE 27.—Federal specification for upholstery fabrics: Type IV (miscellaneous fabrics)j minimum physical requirements {OOG-F-66a, 1953)

Yarns per inch Weight per linear Item Fabric Width yard (54 Materials No. inches Warp Filling wide)

Number Number Inches Ounces Face warp, 100 percent wool or 12 Dobby .__ ._-_ /18 (face) 54 119 mohair; back warp and filling, 100 136 (back) } - percent cotton. r 15.25 Face yarns, 30 percent mohair and ri2.5 (face) 9.5 (face) J (face) 70 percent rayon; backing, 100 13 Dobby (novelty) _ _ \25 (back) 19 (back) } M 1 23.5 percent cotton. [ (total) 1 14 Rough texture (plain or 32 32 48 15 100 percent cotton, twisted 2-ply, printed). vat dyes. 15 Cretonne (printed) 60 50 48 10 100 percent cotton, vat dyes. 16 Friezette _ 80 30 54 5 100 percent cotton. 17 Mohair satin (plain or 66 60 54 14 Warp, 100 percent cotton; filling, a printed). blend of not less than 25 percent mohair or wool, balance rayon. 18 Duck (plain or printed) __ 50 40 48 12 2-ply carded cotton, vat dyes, colors, mildew-resistant and water-repellent. Exclusive of synthetic-rubber latex coating. 21 CLOTHING FABRICS

Investigations of fabrics in the clothing field the market and were merchandised under the have been devoted largely to materials that are name of ^'broadcloth.^' The yarn count was low- suitable for work clothes and for children's gar- ered, single yarns were substituted for ply yarns, ments. Here, fashion has a minimum influence and the ratio of warp to filling yarns was reduced. and staple fabrics are used. Little has been done Some of these fabrics had little resemblance to the on actual wear studies, but on the basis of labora- original broadcloths and the resulting confusion tory tests, specifications have been set up for such led, during one period, to the use of the term staples as broadcloth, corduroy, percale, and den- ^'genuine broadcloth" on fabric labels and in ad- ims and certain other twills which are frequently vertising—merchants attempting thus to inform used for garments in hospitals and other Govern- customers of the difference in quality. ment or charitable institutions. In some cases A reference (87, pp. 163-166) on weave room where quality varied excessively, the former Bu- calculations published in 1949 gives yarn counts reau of Home Economics has recommended mini- for broadcloth varying from 80X56 to 172X88 mum standards. For the most part, however, and classifies such fabrics as ^^single^' (both yarns studies of clothing fabrics have included a small single ply), ''semi" (ply warp and single filling), sampling of the retail market for whatever fabric and "ply'' (both warp and filling of ply yarns). was currently in use for utility or informal gar- In 1933 Griffith and Seigert (IS) reported a ments. study of 6 shirts sold as broadcloth, 3 of which had yarn counts of less than 144X76; the lowest Batiste, Cambric, Longcloth, and Nainsook was 105X59. Phelps and Gorham (26) in 1935 Batiste, cambric, longcloth, and nainsook are analyzed 11 popular-priced white broadcloth shirts cotton fabrics related in construction but differ- and found 3 to have 2-ply yarns in both directions, ing in finish, which are used for underwear and 1 with a 2-ply warp and a single filling, while the infants' clothing. Batiste, the finest and most remaining 7 were made with single yarns in both sheer, is finished very soft. It is made of combed warp and filling. yarns—the total number per square inch being The most extensive study of broadcloths re- close to or exceeding 200. Nainsook and fine ported was made in 1939 by White and Hays (4^) cambrics are similar but not so fine. Less expen- in the laboratories of the U. S. Bureau of Home sive cambrics are made from print cloths with a Economics. Of 51 fabrics sold to these investi- firm-starched glazed finish. Also converted from gators as broadcloths, 40 had single yarns in both print cloth is longcloth, which is similar to cam- warp and filling, 4 had 2-pIy warp and single bric, nainsook, and batiste but heavier and more filling yarns, and 7 had 2-ply yarns in both warp closely woven. and filling. In the absence of standard definitions or mini- Among the 40 single-yarn fabrics, the 6 of mum specifications for these fabrics, demarcations lowest quality contained so few warp yarns per are indefinite and differentiations difficult. No inch in proportion to the filling yarns that the serviceability studies of such materials are re- fabrics did not have the ribbed effect character- ported. The few recorded results of analyses of istic of broadcloth. They were examples of the the finished fabrics are given in appendix table 52. fabrics made of 80X60 (gray designation) print cloth, finished for pajamas and men's shorts, which Broadcloth had originally been sold as "pajama cloth" but had gradually acquired the misnomer "pajama Broadcloth is one of the fabrics for which a lack broadcloth,'' later shortened to '^broadcloth." Of of a standard definition has led to much confusion single carded yarns of low yarn count and without and purchasing difläculty. It is usually defined in the fillingwise rib, they had no characteristics in general terms as a plain-weave cotton fabric with common with broadcloth. a fine fiUingwise rib. On tjie basis of this study, the Bureau of Home Testimony before the Federal Trade Commis- Economics recommended that the name "cotton sion in 1924 (î) includes statements that so-called broadcloth" be restricted to those fabrics having English broadcloth was introduced in the United a weight of at least 3 ounces per square yard, a States in 1919 as an import from England. It was breaking strength (strip) of not less than 52 pounds made of long-staple Egyptian cotton, the yarns warpwise and 18 pounds fillingwise, and at least were 2-ply in both warp and filling, the yarn 100 warp yarns and approximately one-half that numbers were 100 in both directions, and the yarn number of filling yarns per inch. counts ranged from 144X76 to 156X84. The SPECIFICATIONS FOR BROADGLOTH.-—In 1941 the ratio of 2:1 in the number of warp and filling Ameiican Society for Testing Materials published yarns produced the characteristic fillingwise rib. Tentative Specifications for Bleached Cotton At that time these fabrics enjoyed great popu- Broadcloth, ASTM Designation: D504-41 T larity as materials for men's shirts. A few years (46, p\ 139), Tecom.m.endmg minimum qualities. later, however, similar but inferior fabrics made The physical requirements for this fabric are by both English and American mills appeared on given in table 28. 22 TABLE 28.—ASTM tentative specifications jor bleached cotton broadcloth (finished) (Designation: D504-41 T)

Yam Breaking strength, minimum Yams per inch, Weight per square minimum yard Sizing, Glassifi- Ply Grab Raveled strip cation maxi- Type Mini- Maxi- Warp Filling Warp Filling miim mum Warp Pilling Warp Filling

Number Number Ounces Ounces Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Type la Usually carded Single Single - 100 54 3.0 4.0 56 20 62 18 4.0 Type lb Carded or combed do do 132 58 3.1 4.0 76 24 66 22 2.0 Type 2 Combed Two do 110 56 3.1 4.0 90 24 82 22 1.0 Type 3 -—do-.-. do ..-_ Two 146 72 3.1 4.0 90 32 82 30 1.0

The physical properties of broadcloths pur- men's white broadcloth shirts. One set was chased on the retail market and studied by various analyzed as the shirts came from the store. The investigators are given in appendix table 53. other set was worn by 6 men students at the Ohio The fabrics are classified by type in accordance State University and laundered in a commercial with the ASTM Tentative Specifications. laundry after each day of wear. When the shirts Of 29 broadcloths grouped as Type la (single had been laundered 10 times, their weight per carded yarns), 3 did not meet the minimum square yard, breaking strength, bursting strength, warp breaking strength of the specifications, 1 and shrinkage were determined. The results of fell far short of the minimum filling strength these analyses are given in table 30. standard, and 8 barely met it; 3 were low in weight. At the University of Minnesota a study (105) Of another 29 fabrics classified as Type lb (single was made of the serviceability of fabrics in nurses* carded or combed yarns) 10 did not meet the warp uniforms, including broadcloth, poplin, suiting, breaking strength minimums of the specifications and jean, each of "good quality of its type." The and 8 did not meet the filling strength standard. broadcloth, a 3.43-ounce fabric with a yarn count The 6 fabrics that could be classified as Type 2 of 157.8X77.5 and a grab breaking strength of all met the specifications. Of the 78 cotton 65.30 pounds warp and 36.90 pounds filling, was fabrics reported in appendix table 53, only 7 rated third—below the poplin and jean but above could be defined as "broadcloth'' under the original the suiting. The authors stated, "The behavior usage of the term; they met the ASTM Tentative of the broadcloth in the uniforms is exceptional in Specifications for T3rpe 3. that, despite low weight, thickness, and breaking strength values, visual evidences of wear indicated The Federal Government has established speci- its superiority to suiting. The close interlacing fication CCC-B-686a for the purchase of some of the fine combed yarns in the broadcloth, with medium- and low-count broadcloths for specific the higher twist of the warp yarns and its rela- Federal uses (84)* The minimum weight, count, tively high warpwise fabric elongation at the end and breaking strength that will be accepted for of the experiment, possibly could explain the good these qualities in connection with such purchases service which was derived from the broadcloth, in are indicated in table 29. Type VI is the pa jama spite of its low fabric strength under breaking and fabric discussed above. bursting forces." The changes in the properties SERVICEABILITY OF BROADCLOTH.—Griffith and and the visual evidences of wear are given in table Siegert (ÎS) studied 2 identical sets of 6 qualities of 31,

TABLE 29.—Federal specification for broadcloth: Cotton^ mercerized (CCC-B-ôSôa^ 1948)

Yarns per inch, Breaking strength Commercial gray designation Weight per minimum (grab), minimum Finished Type square yard, width 1 Width Yards per minimum Warp Filling Warp Filling Count pound

Inches Number ounces Number Number Pounds Pounds Inches I 37K 144 X 76 4. 15 3.5 148 74 74 28 36 II 37 136 X 60 4.00 3.2 140 56 65 25 36 III 37 128 X 68 4. 00/4. 25 3.2 132 64 75 30 36 IV -- -- 37 112 X 60 3.80 3.2 116 56 60 25 36 V- - 37 100 X 60 4. 10 3.2 102 56 55 25 36 VÎ --- 36K 80 X 60 5.00 2.8 82 56 30 25 35

^ A minus tolerance of H inch or a plus tolerance of 1 inch is permitted. 23 TABLE 30 .—Properties of new and worn broadcloth shirts

New fabric New yarn

Breaking strength Shirt Price Weight Yarns per inch Bm-sting Fiber length per Thick- strength square ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Warp Fillmg

Dollars Ounces 0,001 Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Inches Inches A 0.48 2.89 6.49 105 59 56 B. _.._ 82 39 43 69 115 0.82 1.05 1.09 2.81 6,16 149 70 82 74 47 60 108 125 1.10 1.04 C 1.35 3.03 6.86 135 69 D __„ 74 96 34 65 93 152 1.11 1,06 1,95 2.89 6.22 156 76 76 77 50 61 107 178 1,21 .93 E ..._ 2.50 3,25 6.96 153 73 113 F 110 39 78 132 170 1.40 .80 3,50 3.28 7.02 146 72 128 147 47 66 116 180 1.26 .77

New yarn—Con. Fabric worn and laundered 10 times in commercial laundry

Breaking strength Shirt Number Diameter Weight Bursting strength Shrinkage per square Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Warp Filling

Typp 0.00Î Inch 0.001 Inch Ounces Pounds A Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Percent Percent 28.419 39.800 5.95 5.03 2.97 63 70 29 18 81 61 9.37 1.56 B 42.800 38. 550 4.84 5.10 2.89 81 96 44 49 0 35. Oil 89 75 4.16 1.56 40. 816 6.36 4.95 3.16 94 121 37 45 80 54 6.25 1.56 D 43.700 42.553 4.79 4.85 3,13 74 E 97 40 48 124 84 4.16 1.56 43.100 41.650 4.82 4.71 2.85 108 129 49 60 163 78 6.25 3.12 r_. .., 35.376 45. 977 5.32 4.67 3.53 134 157 50 54 128 81 5.21 4.68

TABLE 31.—Change of properties of uniforms of 4 cotton fabrics with wear and laundering

Breaking strength Weight Fabric and times Bursting Visual laundered ^ per square Thickness Grab Strip evidences yard strength of wear 2 Warp Filling Warp Filling

Broadcloth: Ounces 0.001 Inch Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Number 0___._ 3.43 8. 75 65. 30 36.90 52. 25 31. 60 46.45 20____ 3.54 9.40 58, 68 38. 19 36. 08 30.28 40 42 3." 60 40____ 3.64 9.44 33, 98 27. 03 20. 00 19.92 33. 82 6.80 60.__. 3.35 9.40 19.71 14. 60 12. 74 Poplin: 11.82 29.40 8.40 0.__.. 4.63 11.90 115. 90 48. 10 93.40 46. 20 87. 50 20_.__ 4.70 12.86 105. 82 50. 74 52.57 37. 27 73.93 .80 40 4.69 13. 35 71.48 39.25 39.33 22. 85 58.80 1.00 60 4.49 12.70 65. 53 37. 29 22. 60 Suiting: 13,94 47.91 2.00 0 5.50 14. 75 64. 65 67. 65 48. 15 43.65 62. 35 20 5.36 16.42 47.88 49. 00 38. 68 42. 62 40 55.48 .60 5.18 16.86 39.22 40. 08 30.35 30.49 43.46 1.20 60____. 4. 94 16.40 28.96 28. 65 23. 13 Jean: 22.35 28.45 29.80 0 5.49 14. 15 83.85 54.70 79.45 20 45.35 97.80 5.26 16.08 65.49 47. 38 51.25 40. 93 65.31 0 40 5. 14 15.70 52. 71 42. 07 37.25 60 34. 24 53, 16 4.40 4.85 15. 24 38. 16 33. 55 25.81 27.51 38,20 25. 10

1 Times laundered also indicates day? of wear. 2 Mean number of evidences of wear or tears per single uniform.

Chambray usually lighter than the warp. Fancy chambrays for dresses may have stripes, checks, or figures. Typical cotton chambrays are plain-weave A very limited number of chambrays as they fabrics with smooth, glossy surfaces, and com- appear on the retail counter has been studied. monly with colored warp and white filling yarns. The few data reported (appendix table 54) may Sometimes a colored yarn is used jfor the fiUing, be divided into two groups—those pertaining to 24 dress fabrics (Nos. 1 to 15) and those to materials tions and the 1933 Federal specifications for Type commonly found in men's work shirts (Nos. 16 A work-shirt chambrays. The percentage of sizing to 32). was high, only 3 of the fabrics lost less than 5 per- Dress chambrays vary greatly in quality, as cent on desizing and 2 lost as much as 11 percent. shown by the table. Warp breaking strength, The Bureau proposed a maximum loss in weight which is closely related to durability, is in 2 cases on desizing of 5.0 percent. as low as 28 pounds, although in over half of the Of 8 chambray work shirts available for pur- fabrics it exceeds 40 pounds. Bursting strength chase by the families helped by the Farm Security is as low as 57 pounds and as high as 90 pounds. Administration in 1945 (75), only 1 equaled these Shrinkage in laundering is as high in 1 fabric as minimums. 5.4 percent. These materials range from 2.6 to In December 1942 the Federal Specification 3.2 ounces per square yard in weight, and in yarns was amended as CCC-C-231 a (57), which estab- per inch from 74 to 103 in the warp and from 57 lished 4 classes of chambray as shown in table 32. to 90 in the filling. In appendix table 54 are classified the data SPECIFICATIONS FOR CHAMBRAY.—Since work- reported by the Bureau {58) and by Hays, Joiner, shirt chambrays are of great importance to many and Caudill (75) on the basis of these 4 classes. men, the qualities of the material have therefore SERVICEABILITY OF CHAMBRAY.—NO reports of been of considerable interest. As early as 1933, serviceability studies of chambray were found. Federal Specification CCC-C-231 (16) was pub- Hays, Joiner, and Caudill {75) compared the burst- lished, defining the qualities of chambray consid- ing strength of 8 chambray work shirts after ered satisfactory for Government purchases at being abraded on the Taber machine. These that date as follows : values^ which are indicative of resistance to the Type A 7ype B rubbing type of wear, are included in table 33, Weight per square yard ounces. _ 4. 1 5.0 together with data on work shirts of covert, twill^ Width inches-- 36 36 pin check, and poplin. Threads per inch, minimum: High resistance to rubbing was in general ac- Warp number- _ 68 companied by high warp breaking strength. The Filling do-- 48 58 Tensile strength (grab), minimum: shirt with the greatest resistance to abrasion was Warp pounds-- 58 70 also high in breaking strength, count, and weight. Filling--. - do-_ 30 60 Of the shirts studied, the chambrays in general For the assistance of the retail purchaser, the were less resistant to abrasion than were the former Bureau of Home Economics {58) in Janu- coverts, twills, pin checks, and poplins. Two of ary 1942 published proposed minimum specifica- the chambray shirts shrank 12.4 and 9.0 percent, tions for work-shirt chambrays as follows : respectively, in the warp direction, but all other shrinkage values were 2 percent or less. Weight per square yard, minimum ounces- _ 4. 1 Threads per inch, minimum: Cotton Corduroy Warp number- _ 68 Filling do-- 48 Cotton corduroy is a pile fabric distinguished Breaking strength, minimum: by warp wise cords. The pile is produced by extra Strip method: filling yarns so inserted that cords, or ridges, Warp pounds- - 56 Filling do-_ 28 called wales are formed. The ridges are rounded Grab method: by special cutting of the pile. Both the ground Warp do-- 66 weave and the pile construction of these fabrics Filling --do-- 30 vary. Pin wale (or pin wale) corduroy has very Loss in weight in desizing, maximum percent 5.0 narrow wales. It is a mediumweight fabric used Of 9 work-shirt chambrays the Bureau acquired for clothing for women and children. Heavy- on the market in 1941 {58), only 2 met all the weight corduroys are used for boys' and men's requirements for the Type B fabrics of the 1933 everyday wear. Federal specifications. Only 1 (weight 3.30 oz.) White {49), in a laboratory study of 12 cordu- fell below the Bureau's household buyers' specifica- roys (2 lightweight and 10 mediumweight) on the

TABLE 32.—Federal specification jor chambray {GGO-O-êSla, 194^)

Breaking strength Width Yarns per inch, minimum (grab), minimum Classes Weight per between square yard selvages Warp Filling Warp Filling

Ounces Inches Number Number Pounds Pounds A 5. 50 36 67 58 75 52 B 5.00 BñVz 65 54 75 50 C 4.45 36 68 50 65 34 D 3.90 36>^ 68 46 63 34

25 TABLE 33.—Pnce and -properties oj work shirts of 5 cotton fabrics Bursting strength after abrading Price in Grab breaking Loss of spring Weight Yarns per inch 2 strength 3 on Taber machine Fabric and per weight number ot 1943 on de- for siüe square 0 400 600 800 yard^ Warp Pilling Warp Filling sizing 1 16 cycles ^ cycles ^ cycles^ cycles *

Chambray: Dollars Ounces Number Number Pounds Pounds Percent Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds 0.79 4.60 71.2 52.4 76.9 42. 1 9.8 62 21 16 7 2lI'I"I'I .85 4.60 71.7 53.7 71.6 43.1 10.4 69 31 21 11 3 .98 4.53 70.4 50.9 65.8 36.8 11. 1 60 24 13 8 4 1.00 4.40 72.2 53.4 69.5 39. 0 10. 5 67 34 26 9 5.___ 1.25 4. 10 69.5 45,5 83.0 35. 3 ÍQ. 6 57 41 30 13 6______1.25 4.03 68, 9 46.8 75. 1 32.9 7.8 72 35 23 14 7 1.47 5.63 70.1 58.0 79.2 74. 1 10. 2 103 55 46 32 8.-...___ 1. 69 4.57 71.8 52.7 76.5 39.4 10.3 72 33 25 13 Covert: 9-___._ 1. 10 6.07 71. 7 55.7 97. 5 53. 9 13.9 63 63 56 45 10 - 1. 19 4.4? 70.9 49.5 67.9 30.8 9.9 48 31 19 10 11. 1.25 4.73 68.0 53.2 73.9 32.9 9.9 12 1,69 4. 60 70. 1 49.3 65.7 32.4 10.4 47 36 23 15 Twill: 13_-___ 1.75 5. 63 102.6 64.2 98.2 60.5 9.4 98 71 51 37 Pin check: 14_ 1.19 5.63 70.5 57. 1 70.6 65.7 8.5 78 48 36 27 Poplin: 15 1. 19 4.53 114.9 38.3 85.9 62.7 1.2 103 43 42 23 * Average of'3Meterminations. 3 Average of 30 determinations. 2 Average of¿10 determinations. ^ Average of 15 determinations. retai]. market in 1941, found that the fabrics represented three types of ground weave: 1. Four fabrics were plain weave. The W-pile of two of them and the V-pile of the other two were woven into the fabric as shown in figure 2. 2. Four fabrics had two paired warp yarns alternating with one single warp yarn in the ground weave. The filling was composed of single yarns. The W-pile was woven in as shown in figure 3. 3. The four remaining fabrics had paired warp yarns and single filling in the ground with W-pile yarns woven as shown in figure 4. The properties of these and other fabrics for which data are available are given in appendix table 55. SPéCIFICATIONS FOR CORDUROY.—Whitens analyses {49) show^ed such a wide variation in the qualities of the medium weight corduroys that for the use of household purchasers the former Bureau of Home Economics published proposed specifications in 1941 to define desirable minimum qualities for boys' wear. The specifications (4^, p. 316) applicable to fabrics with W-pile yarns and 11 or 12 ribs to the inch are as follows: Yarns per inch, minimum: Warp __number_- 56 Filling plus pile yarns do 136 Weight per square yard, minimum ounces_ _ 12.0 Breaking strength, minimum: Grab: Warp pounds^ _ 78 Filling do 58 Raveled strip: GROUND FILLING ■■ "PILE FILLING Warp do 68 !2zzrWARP Filling do 44 Shrinkage, maximum: FIGURE 2.—Arrangement of filling pile yarns in corduroy Warp . percent _ _ 3 fabrics with plain ground weave: (a) W-pile; (b) V-pile. Filling do 3 In each of these diagrams the uncut pile yarn is shown; Finishing material, maximum do 10.0 whereas, in finished corduroy the longer float has been Colorfastness to laundering, AST M Designation: cut to produce the characteristic tufts. (Reprinted D 435-37 Satisfactory from White 49y p. 295.) Colorfastness to light after 40 hours, minimum Class 3 26 Shrinkage, maximum: Type 1 Type ^ Warp— percent-- 3 3 Filling _ ___-._.-do__._ 3 3 Finishing material, maximum___do lo lu Colorfastness to light Class 3 Class 3 Colorfastness to laundering Satisfactory Satis- factory Federal requirements of specification CCC-C- 591 for dyed and shrunk 8-ounce cotton corduroy (Type 2) (99) are as follows: Weight per square yard: Minimum ounces-, 7% Maximum do 8>4 Width, exclusive of selvage inches. _ 35 Yarns per inch : Warp number-- 45 Filling"_V-"- do 130 'Breaking strength (grab), minimum: Warp-_ - - pounds-- 60 Fimn¿:::—.- do—. 45 Wales per inch, minimum number- _ 1 d/a ^mm SERVICEABILITY OF CORDUROY.—Thompson and Wellington reported a wear study of cotton light-

GROUND FILLING " iPILE FILLING :^. izzziWARP FIGURE 3.—Arrangement of filling pile yarns in corduroy fabrics with two paired and one single warp yarn and single filling in the ground weave: (a) W-pile with two pile yarns to every ground filling yarn; (b) W-pile with three pile yarns to every ground filling yarn. In each of these diagrams the uncut pile yarn is shown; whereas, in finished corduroy the longer float has been cut to produce the characteristic tufts. (After White 49, p. 296,) During the same year the American Society for Testing Materials was giving consideration to the problem and in October 1941 published Tentative Specification for Medium-Weight Cotton Cor- duroy Fabrics (4^, 2?. HI)- This specification, ASTM Designation: D 625-41 T, classifies mediumweight corduroy in two types: Type 1, V-shaped pile and Type 2, W-shaped pile. The minimum physical requirements for the two types of corduroy (finished) are as follows: Type 1 Type 2 Ribs per inch number__ 8 11 or 12 Yarns per inch, minimum: I PILE FILLING Warp do 48 56 GROUND FILLING ■ Filling (including pile) do 110 136 zzzzWARP Weight per square yard, minimum ounces-- 10 12 FIGURE 4.—Arrangement of filling pile yarns in corduroy fabrics with paired warp yarns and single filling in the Breaking strength, minimum: ground weave: (a) W-pile with two pile yarns to every Grab: ground flUing yarn; (b) W-pile with three pile yarns to Warp pounds-_ 66 78 52 58 every ground filling yarn. In each of these diagrams Filling do the uncut pile yarn is shown; whereas, in finished cordu- Raveled strip: roy the longer float has been cut to produce the char- Warp -do 58 Filling do 40 44 acteristic tufts. (After White 49, p. 296,) 27 weight corduroy {98). Twenty-four paii's of White {49) made no wear studies of the 2 overalls made of 8 different pinwale corduroys of lightweight and 10 mediumweight corduroys 3 types were worn during nursery school hours included in her report, but she determined dura- by 18 boys and girls in the nursery school of the bility as measured by resistance' to abrasion, University of Alabama. The overalls were laun- colorfastness to light and to washing, and changes dered when soiled. Since the first pair to show in breaking strength due to laundering. The a break had been laundered 15 times, all were breaking strengths of the new fabrics, and of the analyzed after 15 launderings. Four of the laundered ones before and after abrasion, are fabrics were double warp, 3 varying in weight shown in table 34. before wear from 6.31 to 6.67 ounces per square Shrinkage was found to be objectionable in yard, and the fourth heavier (7.66 ounces). The only a few of these fabrics, and the colorfastness last showed the greatest resistance to laboratory indicated that most of them could be washed abrasion, 685 cycles compared with one as low as satisfactorily so long as no bleaching agents were 583 cycles, and the overalls made of this fabric used. However, some fabrics lost from 10 to 20 averaged 242 hours of wear during the 15 laun- percent of their breaking strength when laundered. derings, while the others averaged 14 percent less. The physical properties of 3 types of these corduroys (Nos. 7, 14, and 19 in appendix table Covert ñ^^ aiter wear and 15 launderings are as follows: A distinguishing feature of cotton covert, a Type Tijpe Type fabric widely used for men's work clothing, is its mottled appearance due to the use of a mock- Hours worn number. _. 206 242 202 Weight per square yard ounces. 6.93 8.05 7 23 twist warp yarn of white and a dark color. The Thickness inch- .025 .030 .026 latter is repeated in the filling. The heavy weights Yarns per inch: are twill weave, the lighter ones plain. Warp number^ 83 45 Although these materials are important for Filling do.__ 'Ï40 147 135 Breaking strength (strip) : work clothes, little study has been given to their Warp pounds. 38.2 37.7 38.9 properties. White {58) included 7 plain-weave Filling do___ 29.5 32.1 30.2 coverts and 1 twill in her report on work-clothing Shrinkage in laundering: fabrics, and Hays, Joiner, and Caudill {75) Warp percent- 3.6 5.0 9.7 Filling do___ 3+. 13 + 2.4 + 2.2 studied 4 cotton covert work shirts among the garments available to families helped by the * W-piie, double warp. 2 W-pile, single warp. Farm Security Administration in 1945. The 3 Plus indicates stretch. weave of the latter fabrics is not reported, but the values for breaking strengths indicate that In another study of the effect of laundering on one may have been twill, the others plain. puiwale corduroys, Thompson, Wellington, and In appendix table 56 are reported the physical Petzel {111) reported losses in breaking strength properties of all of these fabrics, together with of the warp of one fabric after laundering to be those of a few wool and wool-rayon coverts. as high as 48 percent, although one gained as In 1942 the former Bureau of Home Economics much as 7.8 percent. {58j p, i9) suggested the following minimum

TABLE 34.—Mean breaking strength {grab) of corduroys before and after laundering and abrasion

New fabric Laundered fabric

Pabric type and number Before abrasion After abrasion Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp ^ Filling 2

Lightweight: Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds 51.8 46.9 50. 1 2""""" 52.5 52.2 50.0 59.9 40.4 60.4 43.6 61. 2 Mediumweight 42,4 1 70.5 62.0 55. 5 2 54.5 59.7 58.8 68.2 62.8 58. 2 59. 1 56.2 54.8 3__ __ 87.2 64.0 78. 1 4 60.7 78.2 58.9 76.9 71.6 79. 4 69.8 78.2 66.7 5 97. 6 69.1 88. 8 6 69.5 89.2 66.8 93.2 77.6 100.4 79.8 96.6 78.0 7__. 84.2 60. 8 80.3 8 60 4 79. 6 61.2 72. 2 64. 2 68. 6 58.9 66.0 51.8 9 83.6 51.6 10 68. 9 48. 2 65. 6 47. 1 88. 8 96.8 76. 9 81.5 72.9 81.2

* After 15,000 rubs on Wyzenbeek abrasion machine. 2 After 5,000 rubs on Wyzenbeek abrasion machine. 28 specifications in purchasing for plain-weave cotton other laboratories (109) were also high, in 1 case covert work clothes and work clothes fabrics: being 13 percent. The excessive shrinkage and Weight per square yard, minimum ounces.. _ 4. 5 the low yarn count of some dimities indicate the Yarns per inch: need for care in their selection if the purchaser is Warp number__ 65 to obtain durable as well as attractive fabrics. Filling do 45 Breaking strength, minimum: Grab: Dotted Swiss Warp pounds. _ 64 The fine sheer cotton fabrics known as swiss Filling do 34 are not purchased for hard wear, so few studies of Strip: Warp do 54 their properties have been made. However, in Filling do 30 the late 1930's some dotted Swisses were included Loss of weight in sizing, maximum per cent __ 7. 0 in a study of fabrics of interest to the Farm Security Administration (6^), In addition, Penn- Of the 6 plain-weave coverts analyzed^ 1 did sylvania State College (109) has reported the not meet these specifications as to count and properties of seven and Iowa State College (12) another was low in breaking strength and weight. of four dotted Swisses. The findings are shown in The 3 plain-weave covert shirts analyzed by appendix table 58. With only one exception, the Hays, Joiner, and Caudill were lower than the fillingwise breaking strengths of these Swisses specifications in filling breaking strength. were under 20 pounds and the warp wise breaking SERVICEABILITY OF COTTON COVERT.—No data strengths under 30 pounds. Unlike most cottons, are available on the durability of cotton covert in they all shrank more fillingwise than warpwise. use. From their laboratory study Hays, Joiner, SPECIFICATIONS FOR DOTTED SWISS.—Federal and Caudill (75) found that the plain-weave Specifications CCC-S-891 (30), written in 1936 covert shirts were greatly deteriorated when for the fabrics then bought by the Government abraded on the Taber machine. The single twill- for specific purposes, contained the following weave shirt they studied had three times the minimum requirements: bursting strength of the plain weaves after 800 cycles of abrasion. The loss of weight on desizing Weight: Shall be not less than 1.4 ounces per square of both the shirts and the fabrics included in these yard. Dots: Dots shall be small, woven by machine and two studies indicate lack of durabiHty in use. clipped on the wrong side of the background material. The great economic importance to many families of Paste dots will not be considered. Unless otherwise durability in work clothes emphasizes the need for specified, dots furnished on white background shall be studies of the serviceability of garments made of white. Ends and picks: Ends shall be not less than 62 and picks fabrics such as cotton coverts. 48 per inch. Tensile strength: Tensile strengh (grab) shall be not Dimity less than 24 pounds in the warp and 12 pounds in the Although widely used for summer clothing and filling. for glass curtains, in which durability is important, Wool Flannel dimity has been given little study from the standpoint of the properties of the finished material. The term '^flanner' is so widely used in the wool The few data available are summarized in appendix industry that it customarily indicates a fabric of table 57. The weight of approximately 90 per- wool fiber. Flannels made of that fiber are cent of the fabrics listed in the table exceeded 1.6 usually light or medium weight, plain or twill ounces per square yard and the count, 72X62 weave, and lightly napped. However, the name yarns per inch. is used also for fabrics of similar construction and One of the sheer lightweight cotton materials, finish containing cotton, rayon, acetate, and other dimity is distinguished by warp cords produced by manufactured fibers in whole or in part as blends extra warp yarns woven into the fabric in bunches. or combinations among themselves or with wool. It is made of single yarns, usually combed. The The physical properties of 34 twill (2/2) wool warp counts recorded by Clark (S7, p. 160) for flannels are reported in appendix table 59. The these fabrics are mostly over 80 and filling over weight of these materials ranges from 3.70 to 7.92 60, although he lists constructions varying from ounces per square yard, the number of yards per 76X48 to 105X108. inch in the warp being from 28 to 91.9 and in the SERVICEABILITY OF DIMITIES.—No serviceability fiUing from 23 to 70.2 Approximately 90 percent studies of dimities are reported. Hays (6É) of the wool flannels are heavier than 4.0 ounces analyzed 6 dimities, most of which were purchased per square yard and have more than 39 and 29 on the retail market between 1939 and 1941. The yarns per inch in warp and filling, respectively. breaking strength (strip) of 1 was as low as 28 SERVICEABILITY OF WOOL FLANNEL.—Ward and pounds in the warp and only 9.6 pounds in the Bailey (65 and 74) studied the reaction to wear of filling, an indication of very poor serviceability. 4 navy-blue flannels (Nos. 31, 32, 33, and 34) Typical of some sheers of this and similar con- reported in appendix table 59. They were 2X2 structions, the shrinkage fillingwise was greater twills made of uniform blends of new wool^ and than warp wise; the former was high, ranging from reclaimed wool (high-quality sweater clippings) b.8 to 11.4 percent. Shrinkage values reported by and contained, respectivelj^, 25, 50, 75, and 100 29 TABLE 35.—Properties of new and stored wool flannel

Breaking strength Weight Yarns per inch (strip) Elongation Item number and fabric per Thick- Bursting square ness strength yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

0,001 No, 34 (100% new wool) : Ounces Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Inch Inch Pounds New 7.92 35.45 45.5 40.0 32.4 27.7 0.92 1.06 81. 1 Stored 37.4 44.5 39. 5 33.7 28. 1 .81 .87 75.8 No, 33 (75% new wool): New.^_ 7/71 34. 95 45.3 38. 6 28. 6 22. 8 ,84 .96 69.7 Stored- 38. 2 . 43. 4 39.0 29. 8 23. 8 .70 .79 66. 2 No. 32 (50% new wool) : New_—- 7.36 34.40 43, 4 40.2 23.4 18. 7 .72 .75 61.4 Stored 37.2 43.0 38.7 24, 0 19.8 .63 .64 58.8 No. 31 (25% new wool): New 6.71 32. 25 43.9 39.9 17.4 16.7 .66 53.4 Stored. 35.4 43.0 38.4 19,2 17.6 .50 ,56 49.8

percent of new wool. Twelve 4-gore skirts were wear and sleeping garments; (2) Canton flannel^ made from the flannels and worn by college a medium to heavy warp-faced twill with long, women for 1,000 hours. After each 150-hour thick, fleecy nap^ used largely for work gloves period^ the skirts were inspected and dry-cleaned. and (3) outing flannel, usually restricted to cotton Control fabrics were stored at room temperature flannels napped on both sides. for a time équivalent to the period the skirts were Of these fabrics, outing flannel is the only one worn. for which data are available on properties of the Fabrics made of reclaimed wool were not so finished material. A relatively inexpensive fabric, strong as the new-wool fabrics and had less it is a staple in many low-income homes where it elongation. One thousand hours of wear and 7 is widely used for infants' and children's clothing. dry cleanings were insufficient to cause much In the depression of the 1930's, this fabric was so loss in the breaking strength in any of the fabrics, important to the families assisted by the Farm but bursting strength losses ranged from 5.15 to Security Administration that an extensive study 1.15 pounds. Details are shown in tables 35 nd 36. of the qualities available was made by that agency and the former Bureau of Home Economics (48), Cotton Rannel As shown in appendix table 60 the weight per Flannels composed entirely of cotton are (1) square yard of the 22 plain-weave and the 9 twill- flannelette^ a lightweight material usuaUy printed weave outing flannels found on the market at that and napped on only one side, used for infants' time varied considerably, as did such other prop-

TABLE 36.—Properties of wool flannel skirts after 1,000 hours of wear and 7 dry cleanings

Breaking strength Yarns per inch Elongation Fabric and skirt (strip) Bursting Thickness section strength Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

0,001 Inch Number Number Pounds Pounds Inch Inch Pounds No. 34 (100% new wool) _ 37.55 44.9 40.7 75.95 Top_- -- 33. 70 29.20 0.81 0.81 Middle --- 35. 10 30.25 .96 .92 Bottom, 34. 30 31.80 .94 1.01 No. 33 (75% new wool). _ 38. 50 44. 0 39.6 66.'25 Top 29.05 24.05 .72 .70 Middle. - - 29.35 25.00 .78 .81 Bottom. 29. 20 25.00 .81 .81 No. 32 (50% new wool) _ _ 37. 15 43.7 39.4 59." 05 Top -- 24. 80 21. 10 .67 .72 Middle . 23.80 19.95 .64 .67 Bottom 24. 65 20.70 .71 .73 No. 31 (25% new wool) _ _ 35.75 42.8 39.4 5r25. Top. -- 18. 80 15.55 .51 .54 Middle 19. 85 16.60 .52 . 59 Bottom. _- _ . - 20. 10 16.60 .56 .64

30 erties as air permeability, which is an indication SERVICEABILITY OF GABARDINES.—No wear of the warmth of the material. studies of gabardines are reported. In 1944 Hays SPECIFICATIONS FOR COTTON FLANNEL.—Be- (69) compared the physical properties of 10 cotton cause of the wide variation they found in the gabardines suitable for work garments (Nos. 1 to qualities of these fabrics discussed above, the 10 in appendix table 61) and, in order to get some investigators proposed specifications for buying measure of their durabUity, made studies of their two minimum qualities of outing flannel {48, p, resistance to abrasion with the Tab er abraser and 407) as follows: the Wyzenbeek machine. The number of cycles required on the Taber abraser to produce a hole in Plain Twill weave weave the fabrics varied from 1,079 to 5,702. On the Weight per square yard, minimum_ ounces. _ 3,5 5.0 Wyzenbeek machine, after being rubbed 10,000 Yarns per inch, minimum: times, fillingwise, 3 mediumweight gabardines Warp number__ 44 50 failed completely. Results showed that the Filling do 36 42 Breaking strength (grab), minimum: heavier fabrics were more resistant to abrasion; Warp^ pounds-_ 24 34 those of 9.50 and 8.42 ounces per square yard Filling do 18 22 withstood the rubbing best. In 1933 Federal Specification CCC-F-451 for Gingham Canton flannel (17) was issued as follows: A great assortment of yarn-dyed plain-weave Type A Type B cotton fabrics made with checks, plaids, or stripes Weight per square yard ounces. _ 5. 3 4 are termed '^gingham." They range in weight Width inches-. 33^ 36 Yarns per inch: from the combed-yarn tissues, often with heavy Warp number.. 66 38 cords making stripes or checks, and the soft- Filling do 42 48 finished zephyr ginghams, to the coarse carded- Weave (0 6 yarn fabrics for children's play clothes. Clark Breaking strength (grab), minimum: Warp pounds-- 45 24 (57, pp, 215-216) lists 79 constructions classified Filling do 20 26 in three groups: Coarse ginghams, ginghams, and Napped (3) (*) fine ginghams. 1 3- or 4-harness twilL Studies of the physical properties of 48 finished 2 Plain. ginghams are reported in the textile literature. 3 Fillingside. The findings are shown in appendix table 62, * Shghtly on both sides. classified according to Clark. The majority (26) of these materials are in the fine gingham group In 1936 Federal Specification CCC-F-466 for and include 18 studied by Grimes in 1933 and 1935 outing flannel (29) was issued as follows: {14, 20), 7ype I Type II lype III Weight per square yard ounces _ _ 3.50 4. 30 4. 80 SPECIFICATIONS FOR GINGHAM.—For its limited Yarns per inch, minimum: use of gingham, the Federal Government purchases Warp number-. 44 48 52 only a coarse type, the specification CCC-G-391 Filling do 40 42 44 {10) stipulating the following minimums: Weight, Breaking strength (grab), minimum: Warp number-. 22 25 33 3.2 ounces per square yard; yarn count, 64X52; Filling do 12 18 23 and breaking strength (grab), 40 pounds in the warp and 28 in the filling. Gabardine SERVICEABILITY OF GINGHAM.—No wear study Gabardines include a great variety of firmly woven of any t3rpe of gingham has been reported. As an twill fabrics with raised diagonal ribs or cords. indication of durability, however, the breaking Usually piece-dyed, often in brown and olive drab strength values recorded in appendix table 62 shades, they are made of cotton, wool, rayon, show the wide differences in the service to be ex- synthetics, and various combinations of these pected from such materials. In the gingham fibers, and are used for dresses and for mpn's and group, warp breaking strengths (grab) range from women's suits. 28.2 to 86 pounds, filling from 18.9 to 44 pounds. According to Hoye {55, p. 90), cotton gabardines The fine ginghams are much more uniform in both are made with carded or combed yarns, either all yarr. count and breaking strength, the majority single or with ply yarns in the warp and single in having breaking _ strengths between 25 and 35 the filling. In single-yarn cloths, the twill is pounds in both directions. The coarse ginghams, upward to the left. ^ In ply-warp cloths, where on the other hand, vary from 40 to 68 pounds in reverse twist is used in the ply yarn, the twill is warp wise breaking strength and 19 to 50 filling- to the right. In appendix table 61 are summarized wise. the physical properties of some of these fabrics as Lawn determined by laboratory studies. Ten cottons and twenty wools are included. The weight of Lawns are plain-weave sheer cotton fabrics approximately 90 percent of the wool gabardines with a crisp finish not so firm as the organdie exceeds 4.4 ounces per square yard and the count finish. Data on the properties of these fabrics are exceeds 87X49 yarns per inch. very meager. Edgar {12) reported the analysis 31 of II, Wham (109) of 1, and Hays (62) of 11 (ap- 42 pounds, respectively; ¿he filling breaking pendix table 63). strength not less than 20, 28, and 30 pounds; and SERVICEABILITY OF LAWNS.—NO studies on the the minimum weight per square yard 2.4, 2.6, and serviceability of lawns have been reported. As 2.8 ounces. indicated by laboratory determinations, shrinkage Of the 177 percales reported in appendix table may be a serious defect of some of these fabrics 64, 25 had fewer than 124 yarns in warp and filling; from the standpoint of consumer use. Of 9 fabrics 39 were of Type 124, 30 were of Type 140, and 83 for which shrinkage values were reported, 8 shrank were of Type 160. Most of the fabrics of the more than 3 percent fillingwise; in 6 of the 8 the 3 types met the strength requirements. A shrinkage was more than 6 percent. few of T3rpe 140 had less than 40 pounds warp With few exceptions, warp counts exceeded 87 strength and 28 pounds filling strength. On the and filling counts 77; warp breaking strengths other hand, many of Type 160 had a warp strength (strip) were over 30 pounds and filling breaking greater than 50 pounds and a filling strength strengths over 15. In a few cases, however, the greater than 40 pounds. fabrics analyzed showed counts below 76X68 and SPECIFICATIONS FOR PERCALE.—Federal Specifi- filling breaking strengths of 13 pounds and less. cation, CCC-P-191a for 8D-square percale (75) has the following requirements: Organdie Weight per square yard- ^___ounces-_ 3.0 Organdie, purchased largely for fashion rather Yarns per inch, minimuin: than durability, is a very sheer plain-woven fabric, Warp number.- 85 finished for stiffness and transparency. The Filling do 72 Breaking strength (grab), minimum: physical properties of only three organdies, very Warp pounds-_ 45 similar in yarn count, are reported (appendix Fining . do 30 table 63). Percale SERVICEABILITY OF PERCALE.—A few serviceability studies of dress percales have been made. The quality and serviceability of cotton percales In 1948 Sa ville (5^) reported the length of service are of special interest, inasmuch as percales are of 22 percales which had been made into size 6 the most widely used cotton print cloths, both as dresses. Some were worn twice between launder- piece goods and for ready-to-wear garments. As ings; others were washed after 1 day's wea,r. All shirts, shorts, nightwear, dresses, and little boys' dresses were laundered at home, returned when suits, they constitute an important part of the they were considered worn out, and tested. wardrobes of children and adults. In wartime they are rated a civilian necessity and questions Eight of the fabrics had an 80-square count and regarding the qualities most economical from the when new averaged about 8 pounds higher in both standpoint of materials and labor are recurring warp and filling breaking strength than those with ones in such a period. lower counts. In the worn fabrics the percentage Percales and sheetings are the only fabrics on loss of strength was nearly the same in the 80- the retail market that are frequently designated square and the lower counts, but the 80-square by thread count. Of the percales, perhaps the percales were worn and washed on an average of best known is the ^'80 square," a gray construction one-fourth more times than the others (table 37). which finishes in a range of 80 to 84 warp and 72 In 1951 percales made of 3 varieties of cot- to 76 filling. Other common gray constructions ton were made into uniforms and worn in food are 72X76, 68X72, and 64X60; counts may be laboratories of the former Bureau of Human Nu- as low as 60X48. trition and Home Economics and three colleges A study of the dress percales stocked by coop- (104), Percales of 3 constructions were made erative stores and retail and mail-order establish- of each variety—low count (68X49 yarns per ments in the early 1940's indicated that by far inch, 2.6 ounces per square yard); medium count the most common quality was the '^80 square" (77X65 yarns per inch, 3.2 ounces per square (52). Of 84 percales found in these stores, over yard); and high count (90X78 yarns per inch, 3.7 40 were of this construction (appendix table 64). ounces per square yard). After 15, 30, and 45 Classified by type on the basis of the total number periods of wear, each of which included 6 hours of warp plus fiilling yarns, only 9 were of Type of wear and 1 laundering, the garments were 140, 24 of Type 124, and 8 contained less than evaluated by inspection and by measurements of a total of 124 yarns per inch. breaking strength and fluidity (fig. 5), Poor colorfastness to light was characteristic of Because of their sheerness, the fabrics of low many of these fabrics. Only 27 of the 84 percales count became increasingly less desirable for utility could be expected to give satisfactory service when dresses as the study progressed. They were too good fastness to light was essential. Colorfast- transparent and did not retain their starched, finish ness to ordinary laundering was satisfactory in 64 through a 6-hour wear period. The garments of of the fabrics. low-count fabrics had to be handled with extreme As a result of this study, it was proposed that care to reach 45 periods of wear and had more for Types 124, 140, and 160 the warp breaking darns and patches than would be acceptable to strength (grab) should be not less than 38, 40, and many homemakers, whereas fabrics of high count 32 o 30 o PERIODS OF WEAR (NUMBER) FIGURE 5.—Change in breaking strength and fluidity of percale during~wear.

365642—56 3 33 TABLE 'èl.—Properties of low-count and high-count percales, new and worn

Breaking strength Yarns per Times Times laun- Fabric type square New Worn inch worn dered

Warp Filling Warp Filling

Low count: Number Pounds Pounds Pounds Pounds Number Number 1 _____ 123 45.8 22.4 22.0 IL 0 29 26 2 _ _ _ _ 123 35.2 20.2 23.2 12. 8 39 20 3 124 35.7 19.7 19.4 9.8 38 35 4 ___ 124 4L 3 24. 9 2L 7 IL 7 40 23 5 124 33. 7 18.5 19. 1 S,b 45 23 6 _ _ _ _ _ 125 44.3 24.0 19. 8 13.4 31 28 7 126 40.2 23.5 30.5 16.9 18 16 8 126 40. 2 24. 5 24. 7 15. 0 20 16 9 ______127 39.2 22.3 26. 2 15.8 58 44 10 127 4L 3 21.5 27.8 16. 0 46 24 11 _ _ _ 138 34.7 23.4 22.2 12.6 18 15 12 140 38.8 22. 8 24. 3 14. 4 44 23 13 - - _ 142 46.6 28. 0 25. 2 13.7 42 29 14 _ - _- 142 43.8 26.5 23.3 11.9 40 29

Average 40. 1 23. 0 23,5 13. 1 36.3 25. 1 High count: 15 --- - 159 48.7 28.5 26. 4 17. 0 39 20 16 - _ - 160 48.5 30.7 22.5 12.4 43 28 17 - _ 160 46. 8 29. 5 26. 3 16. 9 49 29 18 161 48.3 26.4 29. 4 13. 2 37 34 19 _ _ _ _ 161 bb. 1 32.9 37.9 22.6 35 32 20 161 43.7 28.4 29. 2 16.0 58 30 21 - -- 162 46,0 3L0 33.0 19. 2 53 43 22 _ _ __ _„ 163 53.8 34.0 26. 6 13.0 45 34

Average 48.9 30.2 28.9 16. 3 45 31

were still acceptable and could easily have with- these uniforms has been shown by visual evidences stood 15 additional wear periods. of wear and substantiated by some of the prop- Data on properties of the new fabrics are in erties measured. Although it was neither heaviest appendix table 64. nor thickest of the four materials, it maintained throughout the wear periods exceptionally high Poplins warpwise breaking strength as determined by the Closely related to broadcloths, poplins have grab method. Also, it tended to be high in warp- coarser crosswise ribs and generally fewer filling wise breaking elongation. Doubtless, the 2-ply yarns. The ribs are produced by coarse filling warps spun of combed good middling cotton con- yarns with twice as many fine warps. In the best tributed to its durability, although they were not qualities, both warp and filling yarns are ply, al- the strongest used in any of the fabrics.'' Data though single filling yarns may be used with ply on change of properties of the four fabrics with warps. Data on poplins made of cotton, wool, wear and laundering are given in table 31. silk, acetate, and rayon are given in appendix Hays, Joiner, and Caudill (7¿?, p. 103) found thai table 65. Shantungs, which might be termed as compared with 8 chambray, 4 covert, 1 twill, ''slub poplins,'' are also included in the table. and 1 pin check work shirts, a poplin with a yarn SERVICEABILITY OF POPLINS.—Few quantitative count of 114.9X38.3 and a grab breaking strength data are available on the durability of poplins. A of 85.9 warpwise and 62.7 fillingwise resisted comparison {105^ p. 793) of the serviceability in abrasion in the Taber machine more than did 6 of nurses' uniforms of a cotton poplin, broadcloth, the chambrays, 1 covert, and the pin check. Data suiting, and jean (each a *'good quality of its are given in table 33. type") demonstrated the poplin (a 4.63 ounces- per-square-yard fabric with a yarn count of 108,9 Shantung X50.1 and a grab breaking strength of 115.9 Shantung originally was a hand-woven, plain- pounds warpwise and 48,10 pounds fillingwise) to weave silk fabric made in the Shantung Province be *'without question . . . the most serviceable of China. It was characterized by a rough of the four fabrics , . J' According to the nubbed surface which was a result of imperfections authors, ''The superior serviceability of poplin for in the yarn. Shantung now is made of cotton and

34 of rayon and other synthetic fibers; the distinguish- TABLE 38.—Federal specification for drill: ing feature is the slub yarns in the filling. Such Unbleached (COC~D-651, 1932) yarns are used also to produce slub poplins, slub broadcloth, slub suitings, and similar modifica- Nomi- Weight Yarns per inch Breaking tions of many weaves. nal strength (grab) The properties of 8 cotton shantungs, which Type yards per per square might be designated slub poplins, are included in yard appendix table 65 together with some analyses pound Warp Filling Warp Filling of shantungs of silk, rayon, and acetates. No serviceability studies of shantungs have been Number Ounces Number Number Pounds Pounds reported from the sources used in this study. A 2.50 7,7 72 60 114 80 B 2.85 6.7 72 48 100 68 Twills (Cotton) C a 00 6.4 66 44 110 44 3.25 5.9 66 40 100 40 ^ Appendix table 66 reports the physical properties of a variety of twills—a name that can be applied to all fabrics with a twill weave. Among a fabric weighing not less than 4.8 ounces per cottons the term ''twilV is sometimes restricted square yard with a yarn count of 98 warp and 60 to drills and jeans. The former are 3-harness, filling, and a breaking strength of 85 pounds in the warp-faced twills (2/1) with the twill running warp and 48 in the filling. upward to the left; jean is the same but made with Federal Specification CCC-D-651 for un- lighter yarns and a finer twill. bleached drill (9) specifies heavier twills than a Cottonade is a warp-faced cotton twill with the jean (table 38). twill also to the left. Cotton whipcords are The denim purchased by the Federal Govern- strong, durable fabrics with a prominent twill ment for its specific uses must meet the following effect. The better qualities are made with steep specifications (72): twills (63 degrees) similar to worsted whipcord or Weave: The weave shall be a 3-harness (2/1) right-hand gabardine. Other qualities with regular twills twill or 4-harness (3/1) right-hand twill, as specified. If (45 degrees) are chieñy dyed green, various shades not specified, 3-harness twill shall be furnished. ' of tan, brown, and gray; they are used for uni- Type: Type I shall be made with colored warp yarn. forms, trousers, and riding breeches. The filling yarn shall be white or tinted. Type II shall be Denims are perhaps the most important fabrics made with colored yarn in both the warp and filling. in the work-clothing group—warp-faced twills of The physical requirements for the two types of coarse singles yarns with the twill line running to denim stated in Federal Specification CCC-D-186 the right. The usual weave is the 3-harness, warp- are given in table 39. face twill (2/1); the 4-harness (3/1) is used for the heavier weights. The standard denim is made Serge with indigo-blue dyed warp yarn and gray filling '^Serge'' is a term most often appHed to the navy yarn. Denims and other work-clothing fabrics blue, staple worsted suiting made with a 2/2 twill are specified by weight and width rather than by weave. It also designates fabrics of this construc- yarn count. Work-clothing denim ranges from tion made of other fibers. Appendix table 67 gives 10 to 4.57 ounces per yard. Sportswear denim, the physical properties of 15 wool serges. They used also for women^s clothing, is lighter weight— varied from 3.37 to 9.94 ounces per square yard. from 7.0 to 5.9 ounces per yard. The denims These materials likewise exhibited a wide rangé included in appendix table 66 are work-clothing both in yarns per inch and in strength. types. SERVICEABILITY OF SERGE.—Serviceability stud- Other cotton twill fabrics included in the table ies reported by Lund, Phelps, Norton, and are galatea, Grenfell cloth, herringbone, and khaki. Miller (80, 8Î,) and by Phelps, Lund, and Norton SPECIFICATIONS FOR COTTON TWILLS.—Federal (96) show the physical and chemical changes Specification CCC-J-191 for jean (ÎÎ) specifies occurring in three weights (12-, 14-, and 16-ounce)

TABLE 39.—Federal specification for denim: Unshrunk (CCC-D-186, 1944)

Nominal Weight Yarns per inch, Breaking strength yards per minimum (grab), minimum Type and class per square pound, 28K yard, inches minimum 1 wide Warp Filling Warp Filling

Number Ounces Number Number Pounds Pounds ÍA 2.45 8. 04 62 39 145 53 B Types I and 11^ 2.20 8.95 66 43 150 65 C 2. 00 9. 85 68 42 167 70 D 1.78 11.06 70 42 177 85

* Includes a 2Jí-percent minus tolerance from nominal weight. 35 of new all-wool serges which were purchased and est of the three serges was the least serviceable. made into men's trousers and worn by students The 14-ounce serge was the best as shown hj for periods of 1,500, 3,000, and 4,500 hours. The losses in fabric properties and recorded evidences garments were inspected and dry-cleaned at the of wear. Of the three, the 16-ounce fabric de- end of each 300 hours of wear. Additional teriorated most rapidly after 3,000 hours of wear. lengths of materials, which had been dry-cleaned Alkali solubility, in general, increased and nitrogen and stored, were analyzed together with the fabrics content decreased steadily with dry cleaning and from the worn trousers. with wear and dry cleaning. Data on these Wear caused the materials to lose weight, physical and chemical changes are reported in thickness, strength, and extensibility. The light- tables 40 and 41.

TABLE áo,—Chemical analyses of wool serges, new and ajter dry cleaning, with and without wear

Fabrics dry-cleaned Trousers worn and dry-cleaned Fabric weight and times dry- Total Hours Alkali Total Alkali Nitrogen Ash Nitrogen Ash cleaned solubility sulfur worn solubility sulfur

Percent Percent Percent Percent Number Percent Percent Percent Percent 12-ounce : 0.90 0._-___- 9.4 16. 4 3.45 0.90 0 9.4 16.4 3.45 3. 16 1.26 5- 11.4 16.4 3. 17 1.06 1, 500 12.8 16. 3 10, 6 16.2 3.41 1. 11 3,000 14.4 15.9 3.38 1.22 10 .96 15_.--- 13.4 16.0 3.46 1. 16 4, 500 20.4 15.7 3. 17 14-ounce: .90 0>----- 9.6 16.6 3.46 .90 0 9.6 16.6 3. 46 1.45 5 11.6 16.5 3.11 1.02 1, 500 13.4 16.2 3,08 10.3 16.3 3.35 1.11 3,000 13. 6 16. 0 3.32 .79 10.._-_- 1.02 15..--- 11.6 15.9 3.51 1.10 4,500 16. 4 15.4 3. 18 16-ounce: 3.24 .91 0.----- 9.5 16.5 3. 24 .91 0 9.5 16.5 10.6 16.5 3. 16 1.08 1,500 12.4 16.2 3. 18 1.36 5 3.34 1.26 10 9.5 16.2 3.36 1. 14 3,000 13.3 16. 1 3. 13 1.02 15 12.6 15.9 3. 11 1. 08 4,500 16.6 15.5

TABLE 41.—Properties of wool serges, new and after 4,500 hours of wear and 15 dry cleanings

Breaking strength Elongation Shrinkage Weight Yarns per inch (strip) per Thick- Bursting Fabric square ness strength yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

0.001 Ounces in^h Number Number Pounds Pounds Percent Percent Pounds Percent Percent 12-ounce: 6.22 1. 38 New 7. 77 24.00 66. 30 56.00 49.25 43. 15 29.34 27.33 Í06.50 Worn.-.- 7.05 21.58 67. 40 59. 00 34. 19 28. 81 22.41 16. 41 74.90 14-0 unce: .67 New 8.72 27.20 56.70 54, 80 57. 75 55. 05 32. 67 35.33 130. 60 5.56 Worn 8. 28 24.37 57. 10 56.30 40, 13 36.01 24. 93 17.93 98. 40 16-ounce: 5.56 L17 New 9.94 30,05 57.90 55.20 65. 80 59.60 34. 33 34 67 140.80 Worn...- 9. 18 25.50 57.40 56. 20 43. 27 37.48 23.56 19. 11 99.65

36 REFERENCES

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37 1937 1941

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ANALYSIS OF SOME STAPLE COTTON MATERIALS USED PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OP COTTON CORDUROY FOR EXTENSIVELY FOR CHILDREN'S CLOTHING. ARK. BOYS' CLOTHING. Amer. Dyestuff Rptr. 30: Agr. Expt. Sta. BuL 350, 38 pp., illus. 295-298, 315-316, illus. (35) UNITED STATES FEDERAL SPECIFICATIOJíS BOARD. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR DAMASK, TABLE; 1942 BOLTS). COTTON (IN Fsd. Standard Stock Cat., (50) CASTONGUAY, F. B,, LEEKLEY, D. O., and EDGAR, R. sect. 4, pt. 5, CCC-B-71. 3 pp. Washington. THE WASHING OP COTTON CELLULOSE, REGENER- ATED-CELLULOSE RAYON, CELLULOSE-ACETATE 1938 RAYON, SILK, WILD SILK, AND WOOL WITH SOAP, (36) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING MATERIALS, SILICATED SOAP AND SULPATED ALCOHOL. Amer. COMMITTEE D-13. Dyestuff Rptr. 31: 421-426, 439-440. A. S. T. M. STANDARDS ON TEXTILE MATERIALS (WITH (51) FLETCHER, H. M., HAY, W. M,, and SURRATT, A. J. RELATED INFORMATION). 323 pp., illUS. THE EFFECT OP RESIN FINISHES ON THE COLOR- Philadelphia. FASTNESS AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OP RAYON GABARDINES, Amcr. Dyestuff Rptr. 31: 489- ■(37) HAYS, M. B. 493, 514. A CONSUMER CLASSIFICATION AND SPECIFICATION (52) HAYS, M. B., and FRANKENBERG, G. B. FOR COTTON TURKISH TOWELS. Rayon Textile ANALYSIS OF 84 QUALITIES OF COTTON DRESS PRINTS. Monthly 19: 85-86, 112, illus. Rayon Textile Monthly 23: 620-622, 669, illus. '(38) .MARKER, L., and CRANOR, K. (53) and ROGERS, R. E. THE WEARING QUALITIES OF NINE WHITE COTTON THE SERVICEABILITY OF A DISH TOWEL FABRIC. FABRICS AS DETERMINED BY THEIR PHYSICAL Rayon Textile Monthly 23: 289-290, illus. CHARACTERISTICS. Amer. Dyestuff Rptr. 27: (54) and ROGERS, R. E. 257-260, 284, illus. A STUDY OP FOUR CLASSES OF SHEETS DURING (39) MORRISON, B. V., and HAYS, M. B. SERVICE. Jour. Home Econ. 34: 112-117, illus. PROPOSED MINIMUM REQUIREMENTS OF S TYPES OF (55) HOYE, J. UPHOLSTERY FABRICS BASED ON THE ANALYSIS STAPLE COTTON FABRICS. 241 pp., illus. New York OF 62 MATERIALS. Ü. S. Dept. Agr> Cir. 483, and London. 28 pp., illus,. (56) ROGERS, R. E., HAYS, M, B., and HARDY, J. I. :(40) ROGERS, R. E., and HAYS, M. B. A SERVICE STUDY OF THREE BLANKET FABRICS A SERVICE STUDY OP FOUR QUALITIES OF COTTON MADE PROM VARIOUS BLENDS OF WOOL AND TURKISH TOWELS. JouF, Homc Econ. 30: 406- MOHAIR. Amer. Dyestuff Rptr. 31: 318-324, 412, illus. illus. (57) UNITED STATES FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS BOARD, 1939 FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR CHAMBRAY. FED. Standard Stock Cat., sect. 4, pt. 5, CCG-C ■231a. (41) HAYS, M. B. 4 pp. Washington. SUGGESTED CONSUMER SPECIFICATIONS FOR SIX (58) WHITE, G. CLASSES OF HOUSEHOLD BLANKETS. Rayon Tex- PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF COTTON CHAMBRAY AND tile Monthly 20: 95-97, illus. COVERT FABRICS. Jour. Homc Econ. 34: 42-50, illas. (42) ROGERS, R. E., HAYS, M. B., and WIGINGTON, J. T. MANUFACTURING AND SERVICEABILITY TESTS ON 1943 SHEETINGS MADE FROM TWO SELECTED MILL TYPES OP COTTON. U. S. Dept. Agr. Tech. Bul. 645, (59) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING MATERIALS, 32 pp., illus. COMMITTEE D-IS, (43) WHITE, G., and HAYS, M. B. A. S. T. M. STANDARDS ON TEXTILE MATERIALS fwiTH CONSUMER CLASSIFICATION AND SPECIFICATIONS RELATED INFORMATION). 457 pp., illus. Phila- FOR COTTON BROADCLOTH. Amer. Dyestuff Rptr. delphia. 28: 410, 431-436, 439, illus. (60) ESTER, V., DONOHUE R., BARR, M,, and others. COMPARISON OF AN ARYL SULFONATE AND SOAP 1940 FOR THE WASHING IN HARD WATER OP COTTON, LINEN, SPUN CELLULOSE-ACETATE RAYON, SPUN (44) BARR, F., MARSHALL, A. J., and EDGAR, R. REGENERATED-CELLULOSE RAYON, SILK, AND A COMPARISON OF CARBON TETRACHLOBIDE, NAPH- WOOL. Amer. Dyestuff Rptr. 32: 121-122, THA, AND WATER FOR THE CLEANING OP CELLU- 135-141. LOSE-ACETATE RAYON, REGBNERATED-CELLULOSE (61) FLETCHER, H. M., and SHERWOOD, H. M. S. RAYON, WOOL, WILD SILK, SILK AND WEIGHTED THE COLORFASTNESS AND PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OP SILKS. Amer. Dyestuff Rptr. 29: 599-603. WOOL AND RAYON GABARDINES. Amer. Dyestuff (45) SA VILLE, D. Rptr. 32: 280, 291-296, illus. THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN PRICE AND CERTAIN (62) HAYS, M. B. PROPERTIES OF PERCALE. Okla, Houschold Arts PLAIN-WEAVE COTTON DRESS FABRICS: ANALYSIS Dept. Res. Pub. 1, 35 pp., illus, [Processed.] OF SIX TYPES. Jour. Homc Econ. 35: 363-366.

38 (63) MORRISON, B. V., and BOYER, M. C. (80) LUND, L. O., PHELPS, E. L., NORTON, H. W., and A STUDY OP HIGH GRADE TJPHOLSTERY TAPESTRIES. MILLER, B. B. [Unpublished data.] RELATIVE SERVICEABILITY OP THREE WEIGHTS DP (64) PETZEL, î\ E. WOOL SERGE. Jour. Home Econ. 39: 81-84, A COMPARATIVE STUDY OP COTTON AND RAYON illus. GLASS CURTAIN FABRICS. Ohio Agr. Expt. Sta. (81) PHELPS, E. L., NORTON, H. W., and MILLER, Bul. 645, 30 pp. B. B. (65) WARD, H. M., and BAILEY, B. THE WEARING QUALITIES OP WOOL SERGE. A COM- WEARING TESTS ON FABRIC BLENDS OP NEW AND PARISON BETWEEN THE PHYSICAL CHARACTERIS- RECLAIMED WOOL FIBER. Jour. Agr. Res. 67: TICS OF NEW AND WORN MATERIALS. S. Dak. , 485-500, illus. Agr. Expt. Sta. Tech. Bui. 6, 47 pp., illus.

1944 1948 (66) CROUCH, V. M., and HESS, K. P. (82) FLETCHER, H. M., and JONES, M. V. EFFECTIVENESS AND PERMANENCE OF CERTAIN DIMENSIONAL CHANGES IN CERTAIN COTTON, WOOL, MOISTURE REPELLENT AND STAIN-BESISTANT FIN- AND RAYON WOVEN FABRICS DURING VARIOUS ISHES. Rayon Textile Monthly 25: 449-452, CLEANING AND PRESSING PROCESSES. U. S. illus. Dept. Agr. Cir. 793, 27 pp. illus. GASTON, A. C, and FLETCHER, H. M. (67) (83) S A VILLE, D. SHRINKAGE OP COTTON, LINEN, AND RAYON FABRICS SERVICEABILITY OP PERCALES IN GIRLS' DRESSES. DUE TO LAUNDERING, WHEN PRESSED UNDER Jour. Home Econ. 40: 457-458, CONTROLLED TENSIONS. Jour. Home Econ. 36:516-520. (84) UNITED STATES FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS BOARD, FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR BROADCLOTH) COTTON, GASTON, ä, C, and FLETCHER, H. M. SHRINKAGE OF RAYON FABRICS DUE TO LAUNDERING MERCERIZED. Fed. Standard Stock Cat.,, sect. PRESSED UNDER CONTROLLED TENSIONS. Rayon 4, pt. 5, CCC-B-686a. 5 pp. Washington. Textile Monthly 25: 238-239, illus. (85) WELLINGTON, H. A., and THOMPSON, H. M. (69) HAYS, M. B. ON THE COST AND QUALITY OF PINWALE CORDUROY. PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF 26 WORK GARMENT Jour. Home Econ. 40: 521-523. FABRICS, Rayon Textile Monthly 25: 28-80. (70) SCHIEFER, H. F., STEVENS, H. T,, MACK, P. B., 1949 and BOYLAND, P. M. A STUDY OF THE PROPERTIES OF HOUSEHOLD (86) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING MATERIALS, BLANKETS. [U. S.] Nati. Bur, standards Jour, COMMITTEE D-13. Res. 32: 261-284, illus. A. S. T. M. STANDARDS ON TEXTILE MATERIALS (WITH RELATED INFORMATION). 574 pp., illus. (71) SuMNER, L. E., and ROSEBERRY, E. D. SERVICEABILITY OF LINEN, COTTON WITH A PER- Philadelphia, MANENT FINISH AND RAYON/COTTON TABLE (87) CLARK, W. A. G. NAPKINS. Rayon Textile Monthly 25: 377-380. CLARK'S WEAVE ROOM CALCULATIONS. Ed. 3, 244 (72) UNITED STATES FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS BOARD. pp., Illus. Charlotte, N. C. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR DENIM; UNSHRUNK. (88) FLETCHER, H. M. ' Fed. Standard Stock Cat., sect. 4, pt. 5, CCC- FABRICS FOR GLASS CURTAINS 4ND DRAPERIES. D-186. 4 pp. Washington. Amer. Dyestufî Rptr. 38: 603-607, illus. (73) (89) and WHITLOCK, M. C. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR PERCALE, Fed. Stand- ABRASION RESISTANCE OF BUTTONHOLES, JoUI. ard stock Cat., sect. 4, pt. 5, CCC-P-191a. Home Econ. 41: 143-147, illus, 4 pp. Washington. GiNTER, A., GRAY, K., BEAN, E., and others. (74) WARD, H. M., and BAILEY, B. (90) SERVICE TESTS ON BLENDS OP NEW AND RECLAIMED A SERVICEABILITY STUDY ON KITCHEN TOWELINGS WOOL. Jour. Home Econ. 36: 290-294. OF VARiCOUS FIBER CONTENTS. Mo. Agr. Expt. Sta, Res, Bui. 448, 20 pp., illus. 1945 (91) MACK, P. B. AMERICAN STANDARDS FOR SHEETING. JoUr. Home (75) HAYS, M. B., JOINER, L. S,, and CAUDILL, D. C. Econ. 41: 563-566. ANALYSIS OF WORK SHIRTS AND OVERALLS. Jour. Home Econ. 37: 100-105. 1950 (76) MORRISON, B. V., and JELINEK, V. C. THE SERVICEABILITY OF CURTAIN MARQUISETTES. (92) CORMANY, E,, and GATES, R. E. Amer. Dyestufî Rptr. 34: 328-333. EFFECT OF CERTAIN DETERGENTS ON THE SERVICE QUALITIES OF A COTTON AND A SPUN RAYON 1946 FABRIC. Jour. Home Econ. 42: 284-288. (93) DICKSON, B. B., and SPENCER, L. H. (77) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING MATERIALS, A COMPARATIVE STUDY OF THE SERVICEABILITY OP COMMITTEE D-13. SOME LINEN AND SOME PLASTIC PLACE MATS. A. S. T. M. STANDARDS ON TEXTILE MATERIALS Jour. Home Econ. 42: 367-369, illus. (WITH RELATED INFORMATION). 490 pp., illus. Philadelphia. (94) FLETCHER, H. M., and GRAHAM, W. D. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE IN LAUNDERING OF CERTAIN (78) MORRISON, B. V., and WILBUR, J. C. A SERVICE STUDY OF DISH TOWELS. [Unpublished RAYON, WOOL, NYLON, AND SILK FABRICS. [Un- data.] published data.] (95) HENSLEY, M. L., and GILLIAM, J. F. 1947 EFFECTS OP LAUNDERING ON SIZE AND SHAPE OP WINDOW CURTAIN FABRICS. [Unpublished data.] (79) FLETCHER, H. M., and JONES, M. V. SHRINKAGE OF CERTAIN COTTON WOVEN FABRICS (96) PHELPS, E. L., LUND, L. O., and NORTON, H. W. CAUSED BY VARIOUS LAUNDERING AND PRESSING CHEMICAL CHANGES IN WOOL RESULTING FROM WEAR PROCEDURES. Amer. Dyestufî Rptr. 36: 727- AND DRY CLEANING. Amcr. Dycstuff Rptr. 39: 729, illus. 177-180, 202, illus.

39 1950 (107) UNITED STATES FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS BOARD. (97) SAXON, D., KEENEY, P. E., and THOMPSON, H. M. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR TOWELS, DISH (COT- A COMPARISON OP EFFECTS OP LAUNDERING AND DRY TON FLOUR BAG). Fed. Standard Stock Cat., CLEANING ON CORDUROY. Jour. Home Econ 42- sect. 4, pt. 5, DDD-T-516. 4 pp. Washing- 33-38. ■ ton. (98) THOMPSON, H. M,, and WELLINGTON, H. A. (108) A SERVICEABILITY STUDY OF PINWALE CORDUROY. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR TOWELS, GLASS (LINEN, Ala. Univ. Bui. v. 44, No. 10, 15 pp., ilius. FOR DRYING GLASSWARE). Fed. Standard Stock (99) UNITED STATES FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS BOARD, Gat., sect. 4, pt. 5, DDD-T-536a. 4 pp. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR CORDUROY, COTTON Washington. Fed. standard Stock Cat., sect. 4, pt. 5, CCC-(> (109) WHAM, G. S., Jr. 591. 4 pp. Washington. THE CONSTRUCTION, DURAEILITY, AND COLORFAST- (100) NESS FACTORS OF CONSUMER TEXTILES IN RELA- FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR TOWELS, HUCK. Fed. TION TO LABORATORY EVALUATION AND SERVICE Standard Stock Cat., sect. 4, pt. 5, DDD-T- PERFORMANCE. [UupubHshed Ph. D. thesis, in 531a. 4 pp. Washington, four parts. Copy on file in Library, Pa. State (101) CoL, State College, Pa.] FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR TOWELS, TERRY CLOTH. Fed. standard Stock Cat., sect. 4, pt. 5, 1952 BDD-T-551b. 5 pp. Washington. (102) ZooK, M. H. (110) CONSUMER INTERESTS COMMITTEE OF THE AMERI- THE DEVELOPMENT OF A REPRODUCIBLE TESTING CAN HOME ECONOMICS ASSOCIATION. TECHNIQUE USING THE TABER ABRASER ON HOW TO BUY SHEETS. Leaflet, 6 pp., illus. Wash- ington. RAYON FABRICS. Amer. Dyestuff |Rptr. 39: (111) 679-685, illus. THOMPSON, H. M., WELLINGTON, H. A., and PETZEL, F. E. LAUNDERING PROCEDURES FOR PINWALE CORDUROY 1951 AND THEIR EFFECTS ON THREE TYPES OF SEAMS. Ala. Univ. Bul. v. 45, No. 16, 22 pp., illus. (Ï03) FLETCHER, H. M,, and EGBERTS, S. H. DEGRADATION OF WINDOW CURTAIN FABRICS BY 1953 LIGHT. [Unpubhshed.] (104) MORRISON, B. V., DAVISON, S., DOWLEN, R. P., (112) UNITED STATES FEDERAL SPECIFICATIONS BOARD. and MCLENDON, V. I. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR BLANKETS; OTHER RELATIVE SERVICEABILITY OP GARMENTS MADE THAN ALL WOOL. Fed. Standard Stock Cat., FROM UTILITY COTTON PERCALES. [Unpubhshed sect, 4, pt. 5, DDD-B-421b. 7 pp. Wash- Technical Bulletin,] ington. (113) (105) PHELPS, E. L., MCLEAN, F. P., MOORE, M. M., and others. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR FABRICS, UPHOLSTERY. Fed. Standard Stock Cat., sect. 4, pt. 5, CCC-F- SERVICEABILITY OF FOUR TYPES OF COTTON FAB- 66a. 8 pp. Washington. RICS. Jour. Home Econ. 43: 788-793. (114) (106) SA VILLE, D., and STATE N, H. W. FEDERAL SPECIFICATION FOR TOWELS, COTTON, FOR THE SPINNING QUALITY OF THREE VARIETIES OF GLASSWARE. Fed. Standard Stock Cat., sect. COTTON AND THE EFFECT OF LAUNDERING AND 4, pt. 5, DDD-T-SOlc. 5 pp. Washington. WEAR ON SHEETS MADE FROM THE SAME VARIE- (115) WHITLOCK, M. C. TIES. Okla. Agr. and Mech. Col. [Unnumb. AHEA CONSUMER STANDARD FOR SHEETING. JOUF. Pub.] 25 pp., illus. [Processed.] Home Econ. 45: 727-728.

40 APPENDIX. TABLES OF FABRIC PROPERTIES The appendix tables bring together data on physical Table 51.—Upholstery fabrics properties of fabrics from the studies that were reviewed Table 52.—Batiste, cambric, longcloth, and nainsook: in the compilation of this bulletin. The source of the data Cotton, plain weave for each fabric is indicated in the last column of the table Table 53.—Broadcloth: Cotton, plain weave by a serial number that denotes the complete reference Table 54.—Chambray: Cotton, plain weave given under References, page 37. Table 55.—Corduroy : Cotton, lightweight and medi- For each fabric, all values reported have resulted from umweight determinations made on individual fabrics under standard Table 56.—Covert methods of test, including those requiring controlled Table 57.—Dimity : Cotton, plain weave with rib or temperature of 70° F. and relative humidity of 65 percent, crammed warp stripe unless otherwise indicated. Table 58.—Dotted swiss: Cotton, plain weave The fabrics included are as follows: Table 59.—Flannel: Wool, 2/2 twill Table 42.—Household and camp blankets Table 60.—Flannel: Cotton Table 43.—^Marquisette: Leno weave Table 61.—Gabardine Table 44.—Curtain voile: Cotton, plain weave Table 62.—Gingham: Cotton, plain weave Table 45.—Curtain fabrics: Gauze, net, ninon, scrim, Table 63.—Lawn and organdie: Cotton, plain weave sheer Table 64.—Percale: Cotton, plain weave, approxi- Table 46.—Chintz and cretonne: Cotton, plain weave mately 36 inches wide Table 47.—Table damask Table 65.—Poplin and shantung: Plain weave Table 48.—Sheeting: Plain weave Table 66.—Twill: Cotton and part-cotton Table 49.—Dish towels and towehng Table 67.—Serge: Wool, 2/3 twiU Table 50.—Turkish towels: Cotton

S65642r—56- 41 TABhBA2.—Properfies of household and camp blankets

Fabric

Yarns per Thickness at- inch Breaking strength Weight Blan- Blan- per Weave Fiber composition ket ket Strip Grab square size weight yard 0.10 lb./ 1.01b./ Warp Fill- sq. in. sq. in. ing Fill- Fill- Warp ing Warp ing

Type 1.—All wool. 12 ounces per square yard and over (ASTM)

Oz, Pet. In, Lb. In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. I 12.0 0.108 45 21 2 12.0 0.193 .103 50 21 3 12.1 Derived twill of one 72x83..- 3.5 .137 24 33 21.7 12.3 30.9 26.4 68 diagonal. 4 12.1 .204 .119 30 22 5 12.1 .221 .137 31 26 Q 12.3 .129 31 29 38.2 20.9 n 12.4 Crow-foot warp ef- .062 28.0 28.0 '"27'4" "l2"6"" fect. 100 wool g 12.47 2/2 twill 70.7 in. .0343 23.0 15.0 67 35 222 wide. (6OZ./01 sq. in.) n 12.5 Herringbone twilL-. 72 X 84 3.6 .143 29 28 25.3 8.3 31.5 21.5 75

10 12.5 .116 25 26 46.5 15.1 11 12.5 .172 .105 12 12.5 .236 .139 32 22 13* 1 12.6 2/2 twill 33H mohair, 66^^ wool. 60 X 84 .107 26.0 32.8 21.0 31.7 39.5 61.2 14 12.6 r... .231 .123 37 39 15 12.6 {._.-....- .126 37 12 16* 12.7 2/2 twill 33î^ reworked wool, 60 X 84 .109 26.6 33.2 20.9 30.9 38.6 62.1 66^ good wool. 17* 12.8 2/2 twill 33H, M blood; m%, .109 27.0 34.2 62.5 29.8 76.8 55.4 127 % blood. IS 13.0 Derived twill 72 X 84 3.8 .149 32 27 30.7 18.6 39,7 51.9 93 .249 .147 40 62 19 13.0 100 wool 20 13.0 .214 .134 21 13.0 .228 .115 51 31 22 13.1 3/1 filling-backed 74 X 83 3.9 .126 26 34 32.3 9.3 48.2 14.0 88 twill. 23* 13.1 2/2 twill 50 fine; 50, H blood .1102 28.0 35.4 48.3 27.9 72.8 50.3 109

24 13.1 ,128 .083 68 66 25 13.1 .215 .127 48 14 26 13.6 .128 33 20 47.8 22.0 27 13.7 .138 45 41 ^70 X 82 3.9 .136 35 42 39.4 13.9 64.5 22.7 112 28 13.8 3/1 filling-backed )100wool twm. 1 29 13.8 .292 .164 43 33 30 13.8 .204 .120 40 25 31 14.0 .142 24 19 53.4 52.2 32 14.1 3/1 filling-backed l72 X 84 4.0 .172 34 26 31.8 7.8 45.9 18.8 81 derived twill. 33 14.2 98 wool, 2 cotton .138 .096 45 38 34 14.2 i__ __ .149 24 37 36.7 29.6 .111 23 24 43.9 21.4 35 14.2 llOO wool .. 36 14.3 .265 .167 46 35 37 14.3 [ .152 .098 63 59 38* 14.6 2/2 twill 33H poor wool, 66^^ 60 X 84 .113 27.0 35.0 25.2 40.5 47,2 80.9 good wool. 39 14.5 .305 .161 30 24 40 14.6 ■100 wool - _ . __ .147 .098 77 69 41 14.6 .253 .153 See footnotes at end of tables.

42 TABLE 42.—Properties of household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric—C ontinued Yarn

Air permea- Twist (turns Shrinkage bility at Number or grade per inch, direction) pressure of— Com- Reference Com- pres- number Thermal trans- pressi- sional Ply mission bility resil- i/^in. ience Wash- Warp Filling lib. System Warp Filling Warp Filling ings H2O

Type 1.—All wool, 12 ounces per square yard and over (ASTM)—Continued

Cal.I Cu.ft.l Cu.ft.l B. t. U.I = C.lsec.f min.j min.l ° F.lhrJ ifiOO In.jin. No. Pet. Pet. sq.ft. sq.ft. sq.ft. sq. cm. Ib.ßn.^ Pet. No. m. I 5 3 5 0.69 0.36 51 JrO (1944). 2 10 3 10 Ill .75 .49 54 3 94" "Ô.'072" 48's 48's Single lOZ 5Z n,Bimm,M (1939). 4 10 3 3 264 .78 .37 48 '^70 (1944). 5 .28 46 Q Î22 .093 4Í (1939). 7 111 .083 7 (1930), 8 (1931). g Runs- L2 .9 4Z 4Z 2 (1928), 12 (1933).

9 106 .058 50's 50's Single 6Z 4Z 22, 24 (1935), 4Í (1939). 10 156 .098 4Î (1939). 11 152 .86 .27 42 }70 (1944). 12 .35 46 13* 1 44 .102 .30 33 Runs- 2H IVA Single 8.5 5.2 66 (1942).

14 10 12 0 498 .74 .34 47 }TO(1944). 15 5 7 1 .75 .34 44 16* 46 "Viis' .28 31 Runs- 2H Single 7.4 6.0 56 (1942). 17* 12 17 12 57 .108 .._do... m 23/2 ...do 6.0 7.2 S3 (1937). 18 95 .065 50's 50's -..do 8Z 3Z 22, 2k (1935), 4Í (1939). 19 .33 42 1 20 _- 103 .80 .30 44 m (1944). 2lII"I 10 6 187 .75 .43 39 J 22 122" """.'Ô86' 66's 56's Single 9Z 6Z 22, 2k (1935), ki (1939). 23*.___ 12 20 13 39 .113 Runs. 2J^ ...do 7.2 7.2 33 (1937).

24 10 8 4 77 1.01 .23 50 jrö (1944). 25 .32 44 26 92 .091 4Í (1939), 27 5 8 6 .74 .30 ■ 50 70(1944). 28 104 ""."Ö67" 48's 48's Single iiz 7Z 24 (1935), U (1939). 29 10 7 3 263 .69 .41 46 ]7Ö (1944). 30 10 6 3 190 .73 .36 54 31 ""."Ó9Í" kl (1939). 32 69 .061 60's 60's Single Î2Z 5Z 22, 2k (1935), kí (1939). 33 10 3 2 93 .97 .22 42 70 (1944). 34 Í24" "".'Ó94' ]kí (1939). 35 96 .123 ! 36 153 .73 .33 47 }70 (1944). 8 6 101 .96 .23 48 37 io" 56(1942). 38* 41 ""."ÍÓ4" .25 33 Runs- 2^ Single 9.3 6.0 11 12 280 .72 .45 46 1 39 10 VÏO (1944). 40 10 8 4 70 1.00 .30 48 41 148 .75 .31 44

43 TABLE 4:2.—Properties of household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per Thickness at— inch Breaking strength Weight Blan- Blan- Burst- per ing square Weave Fiber composition ket ket Strip Grab yard size weiglit strength 0.10 lb./ 1.01b./ Warp Fill- sq. in. sq. in. Fill- Fill- Warp ing Warp ing

Type 1.—All wool, 12 ounces per square yard and over (ASTM)—Continued

Oz. Pet, In. Lb. In. In, : No. m. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. 42...... _ 14.6 0.136 0.095 43 - 14.6 .200 .121 44....._. 14.7 .233 .157 56 48 46 . 14. 8 .165 .114 29 26 46 14,9 Derived twill of one 63x84 4.1 .132 27 18 60.3 36.3 81.0 50.4 142 diagonal. 47 14.9 .270 .143 33 32 48 14.9 .230 .128 56 36 49... 14.9 ,137 .095 60 . 14.9 .242 .136 81 50 61 15.0 .177 32 33 28.0 46.6 62 _- 15.0 .231 .143 63... _ 15.16 2/2 reverse twill .070 28.0 22.8 34.7 23.9 64 15.2 .250 ,165 65 .. _ 15.3 ?100wool ,140 34 17 88.6 26.7 66_...... 15.3 .212 .143 54 63 67 15.3 .178 .118 53 54 68 _ 15.9 .178 .121 74 70 69 16.4 ,141 ,103 60 _. 16.5 .161 .100 68 71 61 . . 16.7 .193 .125 68 51 62....._. 16.7 _ .156 .114 63. . 17.5 .256 .159 31 27 64...... _ 17.7 ,277 , 182 57 75 65 17.8 , 207 .137 75 48 66.,..._. 18.3 .170 .120 79 67 67 - 19.3 .175 .1^ " 73 72 68 - . 19.4 .404 .221 69 -_ 22.4 .382 .228 f Type 2.—All wool, less than 12 ounces per square yard (ASTM)

70 5.6 0.080 0.044 32 19 71 8,4 Derived twill of one 66x80 4.3 .085 29 28 22.6 7.9 29.2 10.7 diagonal. 72 8.4 . 141 .083 29 11 73 8.5 2/2 twill- 60x84 4.3 .086 27 25 26.0 16.4 31.7 28.5 100 wool 74 8.5 .140 .089 32 29 75 8.6 2/2 twill _ - 66x84 4.2 .093 30 31 31.5 7.8 39.8 18.0 76 8.6 .147 .091 40 18 77* 8.7 2/2twm. 100 reworked wool... .0564 25.3 17.9 5.7 5.2 7.7 9.2 22 78 8.8 / _... .082 25 20 21.2 12.6 79 9.1 .090 18 16 20.8 20.0 80 _ 9.5 .172 .099 54 43 81 -. — 9.5 .182 .093 34 14 82 9.7 .167 .097 83 9.7 100 wool .161 .093 84 9.7 .198 .105 36 18 85 9.8 .164 .102 46 33 86 9.8 .193 ,102 34 13 87 9,9 .178 .093 88 10.0 .164 .098 89 10.2 .137 .087 41 32 90 10.4 Derived twill of one 68x80 2.6 .122 24 25 17.3 7.6 23.9 12.4 56 diagonal. 91 10.4 .192 .113 24 12 92 11,0 .184 .106 33 31 93 11.06 Modified twill 72x84 .0398 28 30 17.2 6.62 100 wool -.- (Pressure not specified) 94 11.1 .186 .114 35 21 96 11.2 2/2 twill 72 X 80 3.1 .146 30 13 14.1 2.4 17.8 10,9 47 96 - 11.2 .188 .109 38 18 97* - 11.7 2/2twUl 33H, H blood; 66^ re- .0805 26.6 36.8 19.7 16.5 28,9 27.4 62 worked wool. Ô8 11.9 100 wool . . .191 .111 34 30

See footnotes at end of table.

44 TABLE 42.—Properties oj household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yarn

Air permea- Twist (turns ShriQkage bility at Number or grade per inch, pressure of— direction) Com- Com- Reference Thermal trans- pressi- pres- number mission bUity sional Ply Hin. resil- Wash- ience System Warp Filling Warp Filling ings Warp Filling lib. H2O

Type 1.—All wool, 12 ounces per square yard and over (ASTM)—Continued

Calf Cu.ft.f Cu.fU B. t. U.I ^C.'fsed min.} min.j ° F.lfir.j 1,000 In.¡in. No. Pet. Pet, SQ. ft. sq.ft. sg. cm. Ib.Hn.i Pet. No. No. 42 91 t& 0,21 63 43 187 .85 .28 45 '70 (1944). 44 10 10 9 127 .82 .28 50 45 10 3 0 125 .93 .23 44 46 85" "".On 48's 48's Single 4S 4S Bß, U, (1935) kly (1939). 47 10 7 5 216 .65 .46 51 43 10 8 3 212 .78 .37 50 10 (1944). 49 95 .91 .21 49 50 .34 46 51 100 .072 ht (1939). 62 173 .78 ,31 41 70 (1944). 53 102 '""."080" 1 (1930). 64 105 .75 .27 44 ■ 10 (1944). 55 112 "".On hi (1939). 56 10 7 4 103 .85 .24 48 57 .85 .29 35 58 10 8 3 53 .93 .23 50 69 94 .93 .18 49 60 " 'ÎÔ 8 3 45 .95 .22 48 61 .83 .31 40 62 10 6 0 99 .91 .19 51 •70 (1944). 63 10 6 0 142 .77 .32 52 64 99 .72 .28 48 65 10 2 1 101 .87 .24 42 66 .90 .23 41 67 .93 .24 39 6S 122 .57 .40 50 69 86 .60 .35 49

Type 2 .—AH wool, less than 12 ounces per square yard (ASTM)—Continued

70 10 10 3 257 1.15 0.34 49 to (1944). 71 ""'Í65" "h'.W 50's 50's Single 14Z 8Z n, U (1935), hi, (1939). 72 .33 46 70 (1944). 73 173 ,119 50's 60's -—do 7Z 7Z n, %h (1935), hi y (1939). 74 .28 48 7Ö (1944). 75 149 .116 50's 50's --do 8Z 7Z n, 2h (1935)» hi (1939). 76 .32 48 70 (1944). 77* 12 6 2+4 102 .167 Runs. li/á 1^ Single 8.6 6.5 33 (1937). 78 190 .148 ]ht (1939) 79 197 .105 80 10 3 0 261 .94 .34 49 81 10 11 9 263 .84 .42 52 82 223 .88 .31 43 83 241 .89 .32 44 84 223 .82 .43 47 ^70 (1944). 85 10 3 1 208 .93 .30 45 86 10 7 5 326 .82 .40 50 87 246 .82 .40 47 88 144 .88 .33 45 89 10 2 1 221 .99 .28 36 90 """Ü9" "Toss" 56's 56'S Single 7Z 7Z n, U (1935), hi (1939). 91 .35 45 jrO (1944). 92" 10 4 2 290 .78 .39 48 93 Single 11. 7S 4.5S 2S (1936).

94 10 6 2 164 .89 .31 55 70(1944). 95 Í55" ""."Ö53" 44's 44's W single 8Z 4Z M,H(mS),hî F2-piy, (1939). 96 161 .82 .36 45 70 (1944). 97* 12 24 16 56 """."147' Runs IM w, Single 8.2 6.2 33 (1937). 98 10 3 4 232 .77 .36 48 70 (1944).

45 TABLE 42.—Properties oj household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per Thickness at— inch Breaking strength Weight per Blan- Blan- Burst- Weave Fiber composition ket ket square Strip Orab ing yard size weight strength 0.10 lb./ 1.01b./ Fill- sq. in. sq. in. Warp ing Fill- Fill- Warp ing Warp ing

Type 3.—Cotton warp and wool filling, not less than 70 percent wool (ASTM)

02. Pel. In. Lb. In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb, 99 - 8.8 2/2 twill „ 79.7 wool, 20.3 cotton; 70x82 2.3 0.097 39 34 32.8 10.7 33.1 17.2 37 W cotton, F wools 100 8.8 80 wool, 20 cotton 0.160 .089 33 17 101 9.3 71 wool, 29 cotton .156 .085 102„_.- 9.4 W cotton, F wool .090 41 35 46.6 41.2 103- 9.6 80 wool, 20 cotton .136 .087 46 46 104 9.7 W cotton, F wool .100 40 30" 53.4 37.8 105 9.9 do .100 48 43 60.8 25.0 106,_.__- 10.0 3/1 fillingbacked de- 80.3 wool, 19.7 cotton; 73x86 3.1 .117 38 43 32.1 8.0 34.0 13.7 44 rived twill. W cotton, F wool. 107..._.- 10.0 75 wool, 25 cotton .198 .097 48 31 108.„.-_ 10.1 W cotton, F wool .080 18 15 32 8 17.7 109 11.4 79 wool, 21 cotton . .185 .106 46 42 110. 12.2 3/1 fillingbacked 83.9 wool, 16.1 cotton;' 70x82 3.2 .144 40 56 34.9 10.0 37.1 22,0 48 twill. W cotton, F wool. 111 12.2 84 wool, 16 cotton .243 .148 37 22 112_ 12.2 81 wool, 19 cotton .122 .083 22 11 113 12.3 W cotton, F wool . .122 38 29 43.4 56.6 114 12.6 do .123 52 36 49.2 21.8 115 14.0 3/1 fillingbacked 87.9 wool, 12,1 cotton; 76'X 82 4.2 .152 35 45 31.7 18.4 34.8 31.0 67 twill. W cotton, F wool. 116 14.7 do 80,4 wool, 19.6 cotton; 72 X 82 4.2 .180 32 31 46.9 34. D 49.3 60.2 91 W cotton, F wool. 117...... 14.7 80 wool, 20 cotton .269 .173 49 60 118- 15.3 81 wool, 19 cotton .205 .122 ^- ,- 119 15.4 82 wool, 18 cotton .292 .169 120 15.6 86 wool, 14 cotton .145 .104 45 21 121 15.8 91 wool, 9 cotton .139 .096 59 39 122. 19.7 87 wool, 13 cotton .240 .159 56 88

Type 4.—Cotton and wool, not less than 50 percent wool (ASTM)

123 9.8 51 wool, 49 cotton.-__- 0.194 0.114 35 20 124 12.4 62 wool, 38 cotton .145 ,100 24 19 125. 14.4 50 wool, 50 cotton .170 .109 69 12 126 14.7 53 wool, 47 cotton ,165 .111 22 41 127 14.7 50 wool, 50 cotton .179 .114 52 65 128 14.8 59 wool, 41 cotton .167 .114 38 24 129 15.2 50 wool, 50 cotton .175 .114 53 90 130 _ 15.6 50 wool, 50 cotton .168 .110 62 84

Type 5.—Cotton and wool, not less than 25 percent wool (ASTM)

131 7.0 2/2twüL.. 28.2 wool, 71.8 cotton; 74x78 4.0 0.072 33 40 26.9 12.4 27 7 14.7 KA W cotton, F cotton, wool, 132 7.0 28 wool, 72 cotton 0.143 .076 28 15 133 7.2 2/2twm 41.2 wool, 58.8 cotton; 70x84 4.3 ,072 35 31 29.7 3.9 32.9 8.6 W cotton, F cotton, wool. 134 7.2 41 wool, 59 cotton. ... .123 .073 32 9 135 7.5 Plain ... 26.0 wool, 74.0 cotton; 64x91 2.1 .079 37 32 41.6 .8 44.8 4,6 "49 W cotton, F cotton, wool. 136 _. 7.5 26 wool, 74 cotton .143 .082 45 5 137 7.8 27 wool, 73 cotton .149 .085 31 11 138 9.7 33 wool, 67 cotton .122 .070 139 ._ 9.9 2/2 twm 25.5 wool, 74.6 cotton; 65x77 4.8 .086 22 24 52.4 18.5 54.0 18.4 92 W cotton, F cotton, wool. 140 - 9.9 26 wool, 74 cotton .142 ,089 54 18 141 9.9 37 wool, 63 cotton .120 .071 66 38 142 10.0 34 wool, 66 cotton .135 .072 143...... 10.9 25 wool, 75 cotton .152 41 17 144 11.1 40 wool, 60 cotton. _ ._ .147 .087 63 33 145 11.6 '46.4 wool, 53.6 cotton; 72x82 3.3 .141 35 47 31.1 4.7 35.2 13.7 55 W cotton, F cotton, wool. 146 11.7 ,3/1 filling-backed 47.5 wool, 52.5 cotton; 70x83 3.3 .128 42 38 47.0 n.6 51.8 23.5 72 ^ twill. W cotton, F cotton, wool. 147 11.8 24.7 wool, 75.3 cotton; 72x81 3.3 .130 36 44 33.8 28.5 39.4 34.7 88 W cotton, F cotton, . wool. 3 footnotes at end of table. 46 TABLE 42 .—Properties of household and camp blankets- -Contimled

Fabric—Continued Yarn

Air permea- Twist (turns Shrinkage büity at Number or grade per inch, direction) Item pressure of— Com- Reference num- Com- pres- . ber Therm ar trans- pressi- sional Ply mission bility resilience Wash- Warp lib. System Warp Filling Warp Filling ings Filling mo

Type 3 — -Cotton warp and wool filling, not less than 70 percent wool (ASTM)- -Continued

Cal./ Cu.ft./ Cu.ft./ B. L u./ °C./sec./ min./ min./ ° F./hr.l 1,000 In./in. No. Pet. Pet. sq.ft. sq.ft. sq.ft. sq. cm. Ib./in.^ Pd. No. No. 99 113 0.086 50's Single 17Z 8Z S4 (1935), 41 (1939). 100 0.38 47 }7Ö (1944). 101 116 .91 .38 42 102 60 41 (1939). 103 10 8 12 124 .97 .26 50 70 (1944). 104 ""ÎÔ7' }41 (1939). 105 67 .090 106 139 .081 50's Single 16Z 8Z 24 (1935), 4/ (1939). 107 232 .42 51 70 (1944). 108 144 .142 41 (1939). 109 10 2 +1 160 .82 .36 43 7i)(1944). 110 '"'."06Ö' 50's Single 16Z 8Z 22, 24 (1935), 4Í (1939). 111 .38 44 '■70 (1944). 112 .20 38 113 98 ,081 ■41 (1939). 114 116 .078 115 100 .069 50's Single 19Z 6Z 24 (1935), 4Î (1939). 116 115 .059 58's ...do 16Z 6Z 22, 24 (1935), 41 (1939). 117 .29 39 118 134 .88 .30 42 119 151 .72 .41 41 70 (1944). 120 10 3 1 123 .95 .19 42 291 10 3 1 126 1.00 .20 41 10 12 4 74 .84 .26 49

Type 4.—Cotton and wool, not less than 50 percent wool (ASTM)—Continued

123 10 5 7 266 0.81 0.37 60 124 .21 36 125 10 12 10 88 .86 .27 37 126 10 4 4 63 .95 .22 36 ^70(1944). 127 10 13 11 90 .89 .27 35 12S .21 40 129 10 12 13 85 .90 .25 35 130 10 11 13 82 .90 .25 36

Type 5.—Cotton and wool, not less than 25 percent wool (ASTM)—Continued

131 176 0.126 W single, 17Z 4Z 22, 24 (1935). F core.

132 0.37 34 70 (1944). 133 116 .117 Single 16Z 6Z ;g4(1935).

134 .30 42 70(1944). 135 146 .126 Single 15Z 6S 22, 24 (1935).

136 .35 31 137 0.86 .38 33 [70(1944). 138 115 1.06 .29 31 139 114 ""."Í43' Single 9Z 6Z 22, 24 (1935).

140 .28 35 141 10 14 0 124 1.04 .30 38 142 107 .97 .32 36 170(1944). 143 5 7 7 ,67 .44 33 144 10 12 0 105 .97 .29 39 145 99' ""."080" Single 17Z 9Z 22, 24 (1935).

146 81 .104 Single 13Z 6Z 24 (1935).

147 100 .087 W single, 16Z 6Z 22, 24 (1935). F core.

47 TABLE 'i2.—Properties oj household and camp blankets—-Continued

Fabric

Thickness at— Yarns per Breaking strength Item inch num- Weight ber per Blan- Blan- Burst- Weave Fiber composition ket ket square Strip Grab ing yard size weight strength 0,101b./ 1,01b./ Warp Fill- sq. in. sq. in. ing Fill- Warp Warp Fill- ing ing

Type 6.—Cotton and wool, not less than 25 percent wool (ASTM)—Continued

Oz. Pet. In, Lb. In. In. No, No. Lb. Lb. Lb, Lb. Lb. 148 11.8 25 wool, 76 cotton 0.239 0.139 39 35 149 12.4 3/1 filling-backed 28.8 wool, 71.2 cotton; 72x83 3.6 .146 48 29 37.3 24.2 42.1 33.9 74 twiU. W cotton, F cotton, wool. 150 12.4 29 wool, 71 cotton .266 .156 42 34 151 . 12.6 29 wool, 71 cotton.._._ .123 .088 28 26 152 13.5 25 wool, 75 cotton .215 .137 47 45 153 . 13.6 25 wool, 75 cotton .206 .128 68 47 164 14.2 25 wool, 75 cotton._,__ .213 .135 58 62 155 - 14.2 25 wool, 75 cotton .211 .131 62 53 156 15.1 38 wool, 62cotton...__ .204 .117 167 15,1 38 wool, 62 cotton .174 .113 158 19.1 49 wool, 51 cotton .203 .147 36 34

Type 6.—Cotton and wool» not less than 5 percent wool (ASTM)

159 6.0 0.067 34 18 27.0 13.1 160. 6.4 .070 32 24 35.2 16,8 161—_.. 6.5 -5 to 25 wool J .085 34 18 27.3 11.4 162 6.7 .089 35 19 27.0 11,0 163....-, 6.8 .084 35 26 31.4 10.0 164 6.9 2/2 twill 5.6 wool, 94.4 cotton; 73x75 3.6 .076 36 24 31.3 18.1 33.5 20.7 52 W cotton, F cotton, wool. 165 6.9 6 wool, 94 cotton ._ 0.142 .084 36 21 166— — 7.3 5 to 25 wool .084 34 25 26.7 19.4 167 - 7.6 6 to 25 wool .096 34 22 26.6 14.8 168-.,-.. 8.2 Derived twill of one 16,5 wool, 83.5 cotton; 62x88 2.2 .082 38 29 39.4 4,4 43.2 7.6 80 diagonal. W cotton, F cotton, wool. 169 8.2 17 wool, 83 cotton .142 .084 43 8 170 8.3 5 to 26 wool.---- .107 34 27 37.6 16.8 171. 9,0 3/1 miing-backed 8.3 wool, 91.7 cotton; 70x79 2.4 .109 35 34 32.3 16.2 33.0 18.0 45 twüL W cotton, F cotton, wool. 172.....„ 9.4 3/1 filling-backed 7.8 wool, 92.2 cotton; 71 X 78 2.5 .108 34 32 31.7 17.2 35.8 19.2 51 twill. W cotton, F cotton, wool. 173 9.4 8 wool, 92 cotton .200 .113 36 19 174 9.8 5 to 25 wool .123 36 27 28.8 18.4 175 . 10.1 5 to 25 wool -._. .097 35 24 32.4 29.1 176...-. 10.6 6 wool, 96 cotton-- .235 . 128 28 37 177....- 11.6 6to25wool__ _.__ .116 33 37 31.2 33.9

Type 7.—All cotton, 7 ounces per square yard and over (ASTM)

7.6 0.080 34 23 28.9 20,6 8,00 Filling backed- 36,5 in. 0,0260 43,0 38.0 44 27 wide. (60Z./.1 sq. in.) 9.2 .095 40 23 41.2 17.2 9.6 ilOO cotton. .182 .114 41 13 10.2 .122 40 24 39.4 12.2 10.3 .118 45 27 42.4 29.2 10.4 .118 48 29 43.6 18.4 11.0 .192 .126 38 24 11.8 .133 44 32 40.4 29.0 13.3 .103 36 51 38.2 66.8

See footnotes at end of table.

48 TABLE 42.—Properties of household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yarn

Air permea- Twist (turns Shrinkage bility at Number or grade per inch, pressure of— direction) Com- Com- Reference Thermal trans- pressi- pres- number mission bility sional Ply Hin, resil- Wash- ience System Warp Füling Warp FUling ings Warp Filling lib. HaO

Type 6.—Cotton and wool/not less than 25 percent wool (ASTM)--Continued

Cal.j Cu,ft.l Cu.ftf B. t. u.f °C.lsec.f Wim./ mm. ° F.jhr.f 1,000 In.fin. No. Pet. Pet. SQ. ft. sq.ft. sq.ft. sq. cm. IhJin.^ Pet, No, No, 148 0.36 29 70 (1944). 149 94 0.081 W single, Í8Z 3Z g^, H (1935) F core. 150_ . .37 31 151 .17 38 152 10 15 13 135 .84 .30 27 153 10 16 12 137 .80 .31 29 Î54 10 12 10 116 .85 .30 29 70 (1944). 155 10 16 14 135 .80 .30 26 156 102 .86 .29 35 157 86 .96 .24 38 .18 32 158 1 Type 6 —Cotton and wool, not less than 5 percent wool (ASTM)—Continued

159 150 0.149 160 132 .110 161 166 .130 Hi (1939). 162 154 .119 163 88 .125 164 95 .137 W single, 14Z 6Z 22, 24 (1935), F core. ii(1939). 165 0.32 28 70 (1944). 166 105 .143 }4i (1939). 167 125 .106 168 83 .122 Single 17Z 5S 22, U (1935), 41 (1939). 169 .32 34 70 (1944). 170 110 .123 41 (1939). 171 113 .101 W single, 17Z 5Z F core. m, 24 (1935), 172 105 .105 Single- 15Z 6Z 41 (1939).

173 .36 33 70 (1944). 174 103 .089 ]41 (1939). 175 65 .120 176 0.90 .32 16 70 (1944). 177 67 ""UT 41 (1939)

Type 7.—All cotton, 7 ounces per square yard and over • (ASTM)—Continued

178 102 0.119 41 (1939). 179 Typp. 12.499 4.224 Single 16Z 6Z 12 (1933).

180 67 .146 41 (1939). 181 10 7 +1 178 0.84 0.38 29 70 (1944). 182 ""'112' 183 102 .129 _ Ui (1939). 184 63 .126 185 10 6 4 155 .86 .32 29 70 (1944). 186 72" "".'Us" ]41 (1939). 187 29 .142

49 TABLE ^2.—Properties of household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric

Thickness at— Yarns per Item inch Breaking strength num- Weight ber per Blan- Blan- Weave Fiber composition ket Burst- square ket ing size weight Strip Grab yard strength 0.101b./ 1.0 ib./ Warp Fill- sq. in. sq. in. ing Fill- Warp Warp Fin- ing ing

Type 8.—All cotton, less than 7 ounces per square yard (ASTM)

Oz. PcL In. Lb. In. In. 188 . 3.8 No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. 189 4.1 0.038 26 24 15,1 11.4 ,034 33 23 41.1 11,4 190.-... 4.1 0.059 .031 191 4.3 30 8 192 .043 27 20 22.0 10.4 4.3 "."oes" ,033 193....__ 4.6 Plain — 29 12 70x79. .040 "27" "25" 11.0 28,7 11.0 44 194 4.6 .079 29 195-._.._ 4.8 .070 196. 6.0 Plain—.-— 71x79- 2.8 . 042 26 28 30.7 10,3 34.6 18.2 29 197---._. 5.0 100 cotton .042 28 20 41.2 14.2 198- 5.1 .045 199...-. 28 20 41.4 13.2 5.1 .047 26 200...... 5.2 27 18.8 21.2 .048 28 20 40.1 13.7 201...— 5.4 .097 .052 202-...- 6.6 31 19 .065 18 28.4 12.9 203 5.67 Plain 73.0 in. .0183 44.8 30,6 35 17 wide. (60Z./.1 sq. in.) 204 . 6.0 .081 .046 37 28 205-..-. 6.4 .103 .060 206 6.5 27 31 .100 .058 21 37

Gotton and wool, with less than 5 percsnt wool

207..--. 6.4 Plain . - 98.8 cotton, 1.2 wool— 70x90-. 1.7 0,041 28 29 33.3 14.9 70.8 40.3 32 208 6,8 97 cotton, 3 wool 0.200 ,097 209_.— 6.9 96 cotton, 4 wool 31 10 .140 .080 35 13 210 .. 7.6 "2/2""twill—------98.8 cotton, 1.2 wool— "72"x"9"o"-"_" "Ts" .088 "¡2"" "~28""" ""32r3~ """3:6" 33.0 9.6 24 211-...- 8.7 99 cotton, Iwool .215 212- .118 8.9 97 cotton, 3 wool _ .195 .118 213 ""34""" 11.1 '3/1 filïirig-bâcke'd" de-' 97.7 cotton, 2.3 wool—. 65"xy9-"- "T7" .124 ""45"' rived twill. "I5""" "is's" 54.3 21.1 80 214.-.— 11.1 98 cotton, 2 wool .195 .132 54 21

Wo 3l and s Ilk ' -

215. 7.8 Derived twill of one 80.5 wool, 19.5 silk; W 74x91 2.5 28 29 36.6 diagonal. silk, F wool. 11.3 84.5 42.3 216. 12.0 3/1 filling-backed 79.6 wool, 20,4 silk; W 70 X 79 3.2 .122 25 39 38,8 derived twill. silk, F wool. 11.0 43.8 28.2

Wool, cotton, and viscose rayon

217. 17 wool, 55 cotton, 28 0. 212 0.074 viscose. 30 14 218. 7 wool, 55 cotton, 38 .232 .095 viscose. 36 22 219. 8.7 27 wool, 55 cotton, 18 .141 .081 viscose. 47 23 220. 10.0 33 wool, 62 cotton, 5 .179 .109 viscose. 33 19 221-, 10.7 21 wool, 47 cotton, 22 .303 .129 viscose. 34 23 222.. 11.1 23 wool, 38 cotton, 39 .237 .126 42 viscose. 30 223-, 11.7 23 wool, 24 cotton, 53 .307 .149 viscose 36 35 224-. 11.8 26 wool, 43 cotton, 31 .204 ,128 41 viscose, 30 225.. 12. 2 6 wool, 62 cotton, 32 .212 .145 45 32 226. . 12.3 24 wool, 37 cotton, 39 .317 .172 viscose 40 32 227.. 12.4 25 wool, 38 cotton, 37 .313 .175 viscose. 42 35 12.8 12 wool, 1 cotton, 87 .281 .175 viscose. 33 40 229. 13.0 23 wool, 31 cotton, 46 ,275 .172 viscose. 41 32 230. 13.9 29 wool, 63 cotton, 18 .231 .160 viscose. 43 45

See footnotes at end of table. SO TABLE 42.—Properties of household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric—C ont inued Yarn

Ail* permea- Twist (turns Shrinkage bility at Number or grade per inch, pressure of— Com- direction) Reference Com- pres- number Thermal trans- pressi- sional Pîy mission bility resil- Wash- i^in. ience ings Warp Filling lib. H2O System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Type 8.— All cotton, less than 7 ounces per square yard (ASTM)—Continued

Cal.! Cu^ ft! C'L.jt.j B. t. U.I -C.lsec.l mm.I min.! ° F.lhr.j 1,000 In.!in. No. Pet. Pet. sq.ft. sq.ft. SQjt. sq. cm. Pet. No. No. 143 0.176 188------}4i (1939). 189 155 .182 190 1.07 0.35 31 70 (1944). 191 169 "".'Í56' -, 41 (1939). 192 1.05 .39 28 70 (1944). 193 147 ""."Í5Í' W single, 20Z 5Z B2, U (1935), U F core. (1939). 194 .36 29 Jri? (1944). 195 1.06 .33 33 196 98 ""."Í46" Single 16Z 4Z áá,^i (1935), ii (1939). 197 144 .164 198 142 .170 UÍ (1939). 199 88 .137 , 200 147 .161 201 .98 ,50 24 70 (1944). 202 193 Ifi (1939). 203 Typp- 6.300 4.452 Single.-- 13Z 6Z Í2 (1933).

204 ' 1.05 .37 29 205 1.03 .37 28 ■70 (1944). 206 LOO ____[___ .34 26

Cotton and wool, with less than 5 percent wool—Continued

207 110 0.119 Single 16Z 6Z n, U (1935), U (1939). 208 0.92 0.39 18 |7Ö(1944). 209 .93 .39 26 210 80 '""Í33~ Single 18Z 3Z n, U (1935), 41 (1939). .35 211 .87 20 yo (1944). 212 .86 .37 24 213 . - . 71 "Mio" Single 16Z 4Z êS, 24 (1935), 41 (1939). 214 .27 35 70(1944).

Wool and silk—( Continue d

215 123 0.109 56's Single 16Z 5Z 1 ,054 50's --do - 9S 4Z ^4(1935). 216 116 )

Wool, cottoi] L, and viscose rayon—Continued

217 0.84 0.57 17 218 .83 .46 16 219 208 .36 33

220 .82 .34 33 221 .68 .56 18 222 .81 .38 24 223 ,71 ,50 18 ■70(1944). 224 10 5 +2 248 .80 .37 33 225 10 4 4 168 ,82 .31 26 226 .68 .49 20

227 .70 .44 19 228 10 5 7 216 .74 .36 24 229 10 4 1 224 .73 .39 29 230 10 4 9 178 .76 .33 32

SI TABLE 42.—Properties of household and camp blankets—Continued

Fabric

Thickness at— Yarns per Breaking strength inch Item num- Weight Blan- Blan- ber per Strip Grab Burst- per Weave Fiber composition ket ket ing square size weight 0.10 lb./ 1.0 ïb./ Fill- strength Warp sq. in. sq. in. ing Fill- Fill- Warp Warp ing ing

Wool, cotton, and acetate

Oz. Pd. In. Lb. In. In. No. m. Lb. Lb. Lb, Lb. 5.3 25 wool, 25 cotton, 50 0.076 0.040 31 16 acetate. 10.6 25 wool, 26 cotton, 49 .286 .153 36 22 .acetate. 14.6 27 wool, 22 cotton, 51 .245 .152 50 66 acetate. 15.5 22 wool, 27 cotton, 51 .253 .157 49 71 acetate. 15.9 25 wool, 25 cotton, 60 .229 .155 54 68 acetate.

Wool and viscose rayon

15.6 78 wool, 22 viscose. 0.208 0.133 37

Wool and acetate

237 14,7 50 wool, SO acetate—-- 0.110 0.070 55 52 238 15.9 75 wool, 25 acetate .144 .089 56 61 239 16.3 70 wool, 30 acetate .143 .099

Cotton and viscose rayon

240 10.0 25 cotton, 75 viscose 0. 279 0.126 38 19 241 13.9 18 cotton, 82 viscose._ , 154 .112 57 57 242 15,1 13 cotton, 87 viscose .239 .148 49 50

Acetate

14.2 100 acetate. 0.124 55 19.6 100 acetate. , 130 65 45

Camp blankets

11.4 2/2 twill _.-_.-.. Í 68x86 3.2 0.073 35 39 28.0 30.2 44.7 51.2 16.2 3/1 filling-backed 1 73x84 4.7 .120 35 43 32.7 34.5 53.9 48.9 twill. 100 wooL. ' 16. 9 2/2twin_ , I 66x85 4.6 .073 27 30 34.9 33.4 59.7 67.5 12.2 Plain.„ .-_. 81.1 wool, 18.9 cotton; 59x83 2.9 .082 20 16 18.0 7.9 22.1 10,5 W cotton, F wool, 12.4 Derived twill of one 61.7 wool, 38.3 cotton; 60x83 3.0 .097 23 20 20.4 13.5 23.8 18.9 diagonal. W cotton, F cotton, wool. 12.6 ..._do-...__ 29.4 wool, 70.6 cotton; 58x76 2.7 .087 22 19 23.3 19.8 28.3 25.6 W cotton, F cotton, wool. 14.8 3/1 filling-backed 58.6 wool, 41.4 cotton; 60x78 3.3 .118 38 35 33.0 16.3 37.9 23.8 derived twill. W cotton, F cotton, wool. 19.1 ,_do.. 49.3 wool, 50.7 cotton; 60x84 4.6 .150 23 28 31.0 26.4 36.4 33.6 W cotton, F cotton. wool.

1 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (tables 3, 4, 5), 2 Plus indicates stretch. 3 W indicates warp; F, filling.

52 TABLE 42 ,—Properties of household and camp blankets—-Continued

F abrlc—0 ontinued Yarn

Air permea- Twist (turns Shrinkage bility at Number or grade per incii Item pressure of— direction) num- Com- Com- Reference ber Thermal trans- pressi- pres- number mission bility sional Ply Wash- H in. resil- ings Warp Filling lib. H20 ience System Warp Filling Warp Füling

Wool, cotton, and acetate—Continued

Call Cu.ff.i Cu.fi.f B.t.u.j °C.jsec.j min.j min.j ° F.jhT.j 1,000 In.jin, No. Pet. Pet. sq.ft. sq.ft. sq.ft. sg. cm. Ib.lin.i Pet. No. No. 231 10 6 1 269 1.04 0.33 33 232 10 11 10 331 .68 .49 30 233 10 10 7 141 .76 .31 30 70 (1944). 234 10 8 12 160 .72 .33 29 235 .75 .30 29

Wool and viscose rayon— Continued

236... 0.77 0.31 33 70 (1944).

Wool and acetate-Continued

237 0.99 0.27 30 238._- .87 .29 40 m (1944). 239 30 .93 .23 53 1 1 Cotton and viscose rayon--Continued

240 0.73 0.57 21 1 241-_ 10 9 +5 74 .91 .22 22 [70(1944). 242 10 7 10 343 .83 .36 25

Acetate—Continued

243 6 3 2 0.78 0.25 41 yo (1944). 244 5 5 0 .77 ....".. .23 43

Camp blankets—Continned

245.. . 61 0.128 56's 56'S Single IIZ 8Z 1 246 60 .102 SO'S 50's do lOZ 8Z m (1935). 247 17 .136 do 8Z 7S 248 64 .136 do—. 16Z 5Z 249 59 .137 do-— 15Z 63

2S0 46 .149 . do- . 17Z 5S êê, H (1935), 25! 44 .105 do 16Z 6S

252 44 .085 _ . do - 13Z 5S

53 TABLE 43.—Properties oj marquisette: Leno weave

Fabric

Yarns per inch Brealchig strength Elongation Type and item number Weight Thick- per square Finish Width Warp Filling Warp Filling yard ness Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Cotton, unfin- Ished; Oz. PcL In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. Pet. Pet. Pet. f Strip,. . 20.5 7.8 1*1 — __. 0.98 6.6 40 18 I Grab-.- 21.4 8.0 \ 18.4 8.6 40 /Strip... 2* 1.04 6.8 19 \Qrab— 19.4 8.4 |. r Strip... 26.0 8.8 3* 1.15 7.8 46 18 iGrab— 27.6 9.4 J /Strip..- 25.8 9.5 Í* 1.18 8.7 46 19 I Grab-. 27.7 9.3 1 24.2 10.4 5*_-_ 1.24 /Strip-__ 7.6 48 21 IGrab— 25.3 10.2 }._J /Strip-- 25.9 10.6 6*.__ .. 1.25 6.2 48 21 IGrab— 28.0 10.5 10.9 7* /Strip... 26.6 1 1.26 6.7 48 22 IGrab .. 27.8 11.9 11.4 8* ^ /Strip. -- 24.0 I 1.28 8.6 46 23 IGrab... 27.2 12.4 rstrip... 27.3 11.1 1.29 7.4 50 23 IGrab— 30.6 11.5 )J - - /Strip..- 22.8 10*-- -___ 1.30 54 12.6 7.7 30 lGrab— 24.4 14.4 }.J /Strip... 24.3 10.9 11* 1.34 7.0 50 28 IGrab... 21.0 12.1 1-J /Strip... 27.8 12* 1.36 7.5 23 11.8 ] 48 IGrab... 30.7 10.9 /Strip— 27.9 10.9 13* 1.41 8.4 50 29 IGrab— 30.0 12.2 1 /Strip-. 27.0 13.4 14* 1.51 8.4 52 32 IGrab— 30.7 14.2 }.J Cotton, finished: /Strip-. .89 3.8 42 19.0 7.0 19 \Grab... 21.0 7.8 /Strip... 21.9 7.2 16*.-.. .92 5.7 41 18 IGrab... 24.5 7.4 17- .99 4.93 39.0 0.010 43.8 17.4 Strip... 29.5 28.6 5.8 6.1 6.5 8.8 (bone dry) /Strip... 29.0 8.3 18* 1.02 6.0 46 18 \ IGrab-.. 31.4 9.3 i' 11.2 19* 1.03 2.2 54 29 /Strip— 24.6 \ \Grab... 25.4 11.9 j- 20* 1.06 3.3 /Strip... 26.0 9.5 \ 48 20 IGrab... 29.4 10.5 /Strip... 32.8 9.9 21*. 1.06 1.9 48 20 IGrab... 35.0 11.2 /Strip... 22*... 1.07 3.5 54 22.3 10.4 30 iGrab-.- 24.8 12.1 ~ ' " 23*-. . - 1.11 1.5 55 29 /Strip... 22.5 11.7 I Grab..- 25.5 12.8 24 1.15 5.34 39.2 .009 48.1 21.2 Í 39.4 31.6 9.1 10.2 6.0 9.8 (bone dry) 25 1.17 1.87 40.1 .008 68.2 32.5 'Strip-.. ■ 23.3 28.6 9.9 11.1 8.3 8.3 (bone dry)

26* 1.18 1.2 /._do— 26.2 12.2 62 33 IGrab-. 30.4 13.5 }■ /Strip— 27*-.. ._- 1.18 1.6 27 25.7 11.5 48 \Grab.- 27.9 12.9 /Strip... 33.4 10.2 28* 1.18 4.6 51 21 IGrab-.. 34.5 11.5 29 1.20 1.93 39.6 .010 46.0 19.1 Strip— 30.4 34.3 7.9 8.8 8.1 9.6 (bone dry) /_.do„- 21.6 14.4 30* 1.20 .3 56 36 \Grab— 23.0 15.8 }- 31 ..- 1.2 39.5 50 28 ( 25.27 26.30 8.0 9.0 32 1.31 '""Os" 38.6 "'am" 56.1 32.4 [strip— 1 30.8 31.6 15.4 14.9 16.5 12.5 (bone dry) 30.9 32.4 33-... 1.34 .48 47.8 .009 66.6 33,7 /-do.... 13.6 14.0 14.6 \Grab.- 34.2 17.2 } 15.0 34 (bone dry) 1.35 39.6 .009 54.3 33.7 f 30.0 31.6 12.8 13.8 15.6 14.0 1.34 35 (bone dry) 3.4 38.9 54.2 28.3 ■Strip... ] 30.41 31.35 10.16 6.60 10.15 12.38 36 3.5 48.0 65.2 34.9 26.07 32.40 12.44 7.18 15.02 7.23 37- l'.36 4.0 36.0 48 28 I 16.8 17.9 38- . 1.4 .1 48.0 '70068' 68.0 34.0 Grab-. 20 105% of 11 100% of 0 0 1.51 dry. dry. 39 - 1.6 4.1 45?é 53 43 / 24.5 14.1 40 1.8 1.4 47.0 50 21 Istrip... t 26.4 7.3 6.6 7.7 2.4 /-_do..- 33.9 24.1 41* _ 1.90 42 18 2.0 \Grab... 35.9 24.4 }- 42 2.3 67.0 34.5 / 13.8 20.8 4.6 8.4 43- 2.3 2.3 64.0 35.0 17.6 21.6 5.8 5.8 44 2.73 2.83 37.9 .018 28.0 15.0 45.1 50.0 24.6 26.3 13.8 12.5 (bone dry) Strip- 45 3.0 .3 38.0 29 16 1 47.2 19.8 14.6 11.0 46... 3.47 1.28 38.7 "."025"' 29.0 13.4 61.3 70.6 39.9 42.7 14.0 9.6 (bone dry) See footnotes at end of table. 54 TABLE áS,—Properties of marquisette: Leno weave—Continued

Fabric —Con. Fiber Yarn

Shrinkage in laundering Length Number Twist (turns per inch, direction) Type aod Reference item number Ply or number filament Warp Pilling Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Cotton, unfinished: Pet. Pet In. In. No. 1* I. 13.9 3.9 34.7 36.2 ■24Z 25Z 2* 15,5 5.6 32.8 36.5 26Z 24Z 3* 14.4 3.9 32.3 35.2 24Z 23Z 4* 11.1 10.0 3L8 33.4 23Z 35Z

5* __..,. 12.8 5.0 33.1 35.7 23Z 25Z 6* 12.8 UA 32.9 36.5 23Z 30Z

7* -_ 15.0 8.3 33.5 33.6 25Z 26Z 8* 11.7 10.0 32.3 33.0 24Z 34Z

9* 12.8 10.0 ►Typp ^ 33.0 37.4 25Z 34Z '76 (1945). 10*_ -_ 13.9 8.3 40.1 38.4 30Z 30Z

11*. - 12.2 8.9 33.8 40.5 'Single ^24Z 27Z 12* 12,2 11.1 31.8 35.1 24Z 32Z 13* 11.7 14.4 32.0 43.4 22Z 32Z

14* 13.3 16.7 32.2 43.5 23Z 35Z Cotton, ñnished: 15*. 8.3 4.4 37.4 39.8 25Z 22Z

16*. 10.0 6.1 35.3 37.4 24Z 26Z 17 _ 7.7 13.8 Typp 38.1 36.0 18.5Z 27.0Z 64 (1943). (bone dry). 18* 8.9 7.8 ■ 36.1 34.4 21Z 34Z 19* .'- 5.0 10.0 51.6 48.2 28Z 29Z

20*_ _. 7.8 4.4 39.6 37.3 21Z 22Z JTypp W (1945). 21* _ _ 8.3 8.3 36.1 40.3 22Z 32Z

22* 6.7 14.4 47.5 48.5 ■30Z 29Z 23* 5.6 13.3 46.5 44.8 27Z 27Z 24 5.9 12.7 Typp ... 38.8 33.2 13.4Z 28.4Z (bone dry). ■Ö>j:(1943). 25... 5.7 17.5 do 45.9 50.3 24.0Z 37.2Z 26* _. ._ 5.6 14.4 49.8 49.1 32Z 36Z Single 22Z 26Z 27* . 6.7 16.6 Typp 37.4 41.1, 76 (1945). 28* . 7.8 8.9 36.1 35.2 23Z 35Z

29 5.5 15.8 Typp... 37.0 37.0 21.4Z 28.6Z 64(1943). (bone dry). 30* -. 6.1 16.7 Typp. _ 49.4 46.4 48Z 47Z 76 (1945). 31-__ _ 88 (1949). 32 10.0 18.8 44.7 44.3 33.7Z single 34.8Z single 42.0Z ply 42,2Z ply 33 .._ 8.8 20.8 Typp ... 46.7 44.9 33.6Z single 34,5Z single 64(1943). (bone dry). Two 40.4Z ply 46.1Zply 34.._ 8.2 23.4 43.9 42.2 33.9Z single 33.3Z single .37.4Z ply 43.8Z ply 35. Grex 140.6 118.1 /16.4Z 31.9Z 'WS (1951). 36 do_ - 113.6 105.4 24.8Z 29.5Z 37 5.7 14.8 95 (1950). 38 1.9 .2 Typp 40.958 34.902 22Z 20Z 12 (1933). »Single 39 6.0 14.4 \95 (1950). 40 10.0 14.0 41*_ 7.2 9.4 Typp... ._ _ 23.4 12.3 22Z lOZ 76 (1945).

42 2 15.0 2 8.7 1.2 1.3 43.7 59.6 36.8Z 37.5Z \iö9(imi). 43 8.6 16.0 L2 L2 44.9 54.2 13.4Z 17.8Z 44 7.7 15.6 Typp.. 10.1 10.0 20.4 Z single 22.7Z single 64 (1943). (bone dry). 21.4S ply 24.5S ply 45 14.0 20.5 ^Two... 96 (1950). 46 6.7 10.2 Typp 9,6 5.5 19.4Z single 17.1Z single 64 (1943). (bone dry). .15.4S ply 11.9S ply

55 TABLE 43.—Properties of marquisette: Leno weave—Continued

Fabric

Yams per inch Type and Breaking strength Elongation item number Weight Finîsîi Width Thick- per square ness Warp FiUing yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Cotton warp, viscose filling: Oz, In. In. Pet No. No. Lb. Lb, Lb. Lb. Pet Pet. PcL Pet 47* .- 1,02 7.3 36 19 fStrlp„. 19.6 10.0 IGrab... 21.2 11.0 ] 48* 1.16 5.4 42 25 /Strip... 21.2 11.7 \Grab... 22.4 49- ._ 13.8 r 1.4 3.8 45.4 42 27 Strip... 22,9 13,1 60* - 1.42 11.7 44 26 f- do-.. 23.0 11.1 I Grab— 23.8 \ Acetate: 15.2 61 1.37 2.80 38.3 0.010 37.7 29.4 /Strip... 12.5 8.5 11.8 iGrab.:. 15,9 16.2 } 6.2 15.8 27.3 (bone'dry) 62*...... 1.74 1.94 46.7 68.0 36.2 Strip... 18.00 10.25 9.66 21.28 39.09 19.83 Viscose: 53*___...... _._. 1,22 1.4 38 24 /--do.... 19,8 14.0 ] IGrab... 23.3 16.8 64S-_ 1.22 8.80 y- 46.4 25.8 36.3 Strip... 22,80 """'13'45" 14.26 14.00 18.22 13.96 65*...... 1.26 1.0 40 25 /.-do.... 20.5 14.0 \ Grab- 24.3 17.4 66*. L39 1.3 42 28 Strip... 21.2 15.2 { ,Grab_„ 25.7 19.4 57- 1.4 45^ 46 24 /— 58 1.45 ""äiö" 47.8 '"009" 46.0 30.1 ■Strip... f 19.96 8.00 19.3 21.0 (bone dry) 1 23.5 10.9 16.0 5.7 28.8 20.0 69- 1.48 9.63 47.9 .009 46.0 30.0 ■-.do.... 21.0 10.3 15,8 (bone dry) [Grab... 29,0 23.2 } 6.6 22.9 20.6 1.52 7.47 43.2 46.0 28.9 ( 31,67 17.70 19.31 15.32 61 ** 1.69 7.3 20.40 13.02 47.1 46.0 32.4 21. 69 10.95 16.05 14.02 20.96 62 5 _ 1.80 9.85 9.90 41.0 44,0 32.0 20.73 8.99 16.12 11.23 16.72 16.63 PSt 2.0 12.0 46.25 48 fU 30 25.2 18.8 13.8 9.8 2.60 2.51 48,1 ""¿is'" 26.7 17,5 41.4 Í7"3" 27.8 (bone dry) 12.6 23.6 "is's"" Nylon: .8 41.4 48 36 44.01 31.14 28.0 21.3 66 Í* .. .8 '"+"21" 46.5 58.8 41.8 50.86 48.29 38.35 33,76 41.07 29.42 67 . 1.0 38.2 56 44 46.44 36.87 68 * _ .Strip... 29,0 26.0 1.05 50.0 55.4 41.1 43.83 39.60 41.03 34.98 69*... 1.06 36.08 29.00 .33 48.5 59.2 50,0 48.16 41.94 43.08 31.82 34.37 38.06 70* 1.11 .42 44.4 70.0 47,4 53.45 46. 59 36.39 71—- 40.70 41.62 46.42 1.2 6.7 58 41 34.2 57.8 72*--...-. 1.25 6.92 42.6 58.8 41.0 43.70 39.10 30.56 32.23 "39140" "29176" Orion: 73* 1.03 .33 6 43.0 44.0 31.6 31.08 31.10 74*...... 22.80 23,03 23.05 20.80 1.14 .18 47.2 4,^.6 31.7 29.44 29.66 20.86 19.87 75* 1.46 20.90 18.98 1.41 844.0 — 66.4 34.9 37.07 37.70 26.78 16,63 18.90 14,82 1 1 1 1 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (table 6). * Bright fiber. 2 Shrinkage in dry cleaning: warp, 2.0 percent; filling, 4.0 percent. * Dclustered fiber. * Plus indicates stretch. 6 Width of finished curtain.

56 TABLE 43.—Properties of marquisette: Leno weave—Continued

Fabric—Con. Fiber Yarn

Shrinkage in Length Number Twist (turns per inch, direction) Type and laundering Reference item number PJyor number filament Warp Filling Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Cotton warp, viscose filling: PzL Pet. In, No. 47* 13.3 1.1 [Typp 33.0 28.4 /24Z None _- .-_ 1 ioontinuoTiS-.- We (1946). 48* 18,3 5.6 i—do. 36.4 29.4 27Z do. 49._ 12.2 3 +.2 95 (1950) ^Single 50* 12.8 3.3 Continuous Typp 30.8 27.3 '27Z None 76 (1945). Acetate: 61 5.5 8.2 Typp 31.5 29.4 23.2S 26.6S 64. (1943). ' (bone dry). 5ß4 Denier 103.1 104.7 25 23.9S 25.2S i03(1951). Viscose* Typp 30.9 29.7 Single 20S 21S 76 (1945). 53*._- 14.4 8.3 54 5- t Continuous Denier__ 110.34 116.77 60 24.6S 27.2S i03(195i). 31.4 31.6 '22S 24S 55* 16.1 11.1 Typp . - >76 (1945), 20S 22S 56*. 18.3 11.1 ^—-do 31.1 29.5 iSingle 88(1949). 57 58 18.4 10.3 Typp 32.7 33.0 22.7S. 22.2S (bone dry). mum). 59 - - 17.9 9.9 do.„. 31.8 31,7 .23.4S 22.6S

60* [ 163.33 171.28 Í18.7S 20.9S 614 'Continuous— Denier., _ \ 170.89 168.76 ■30- ^ 22.2S 21.6S [iOS(1951). 62 5.._ i 165.83 171. 75 17.4S 16.9S 63 95 (1950). 64 20.9 13.3 Typp 10.8 10.8 14.7S 13.8S 64 (1943), (bone dry). ■Single Nylon: 38 (1949). 66* 'Denier _„ 77.08 75.36 10 11.5Z 11.8Z 103 (1951). 67 Single 88 (1949). 68* Denier 78.33 79.02 Í24.2Z 21.2Z 69* —-do 76.40 77.99 ■34-. • 15.7Z 16.1Z bo5(1951). 70 ß _ —-do..._ 77.76 80.44 .30.6Z 29.6Z 71 Single 95 (1950). 72* Continuous Denier.- 85.28 86.35 30 22.0Z 16.4Z

Orion: i03(1951). 73* -—do 110.16 113.89 Í24.6Z 26.5Z 74*_.- do.— 109.65 114.14 }40 -^24.6Z 27.7Z 75* . __do . . 104.55 104.70 1 120.7S 19.6S

57 TABLE 44.-—Properties of curtain voile: Cotton, plain weave

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Yarn type and item Thick- number Weight per Finish Width square yard ness Warp Filling Warp Füling Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Single yarn: 02. PcL In. In. No. iYo. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. PcL Pet. Pet. Pet. 1.44 1,01 38.9 0.008 60.0 53.4. Strip... 18.1 18.8 14.4 14.0 6.9 11.0 (bone dry) 2 - 1.45 .42 37.8 63.7 56.7 .-_d0.-. 21.04 23.39 16.66 6.26 10.67 11.92 3 1.618 2.00 39.00 58.3 56.2 . _do.... 21.80 18.30 4 1.62 2.5 38.0 .0064 61.0 65.7 Orab... 18 " 144%" of' 15 Í47% of 5 440% of dry. dry. dry. Ply yarn: 5 1.45 1.98 43.6 ,007 61.1 52.3 Strip.. _ 28.6 28.1 25.1 26.4 8.5 13.1 (bone dry) 6 - - .91 44.2 .007 ■ 60.7 49.8 -._do..-. 31.4 33.8 26.0 26.4 9.0 12.5 (bone dry) 22.4 7 60.5 50.7 f do_... 25.4 26.0 } 22.5 12.9 1.48 3.23 43.4 .008 iGrab... 29.2 25.0 9.0 (bone dry) 8 1.540 4.84 38.5 .0073 58.4 56.2 ...do_..- 28.57 22.37 9 1.610 4.60 38.25 .0075 68.1 56.2 Strip-.. 27.78 23.13

10 - --- 1.617 4.25 38.00 .0071 58.4 56.3 -__do-._- 27.26 22.70

11 1.623 6.60 37.75 .0073 58.1 56.3 ...do—- 28.61 24.13 12-__ 1.667 4.99 38.00 .0073 64.4 56.3 ...do-... 30.65 24.30

131 2.15 .6 35.0 .0105 61.0 36.0 Grab.-. 19 137% of 10 140% of 5 320% of 33 303% of dry. dry. dry. dry. 14._ 2.6 .2 48 40 38 Strip... 39.8 43.9 11.4 15.1

1 Hice voile, 2 W indicates warp; F, filling.

58 TABLE 44.- —Properties oj curtain voile ; Cotton^ plain weave—Gontinued

Fabric—Con. Fiber Yarn

Twist (turn per inch Shrinkage in Length Number laundering direction) Yarn type and Reference item number Tiiimber Ply

Warp Filling Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Single yarn: Pet Pet In. In. No. No. 2.0 4.3 Typp 49.8 46.6 40. OZ 51.3Z 04 (1943). 2 Grex 103.0 107.4 ^Single 36. OZ 48. 9Z 103 (1951). 3 Ootton 52.00 48.00 3L3Z 36. 3Z U (1933). 4 _ - 1.3 8.5 1.1 1.0 Typp. 42.118 36.347 28Z 44Z m (1933). Ply yarn: 6 . __ 6.9 8.6 ■ 48.7 48.2 'Single 20.2Z 20.8Z Ply 62.2Z 53. 5Z 6 _ . 4.3 6.2 "Typp ■ 46.7 43.7 Single 20. IZ 20. 7Z 54(1943). Ply 54.9Z 57.6Z 7 7.5 9.6 . 46.1 44.9 Single 30.7Z 31-OZ Ply 37.5Z 39.9Z 8 2/lOOs 2/lOOs Single 34.9Z 30.4Z \ Ply 34.3Z 37. IZ 'Two.. 9 2/llOs 2/llOs Single 36.8Z 34. 4Z Ply 33. IZ 35. 5Z 10 _ - ^ Ootton 2/llOs 2/llOs Single 31. OZ 30. 7Z W (1933). Ply 33.3Z 37. 2Z 11 . _ 2/105S 2/lOOs Single 37.5Z 35. OZ Ply 33.6Z 36. IZ 12 2/105S 2/lOOs Single. 35. SZ 35.2Z [piy 37.2Z 39.4Z 13^ 4.3 7.8 1.1 1.2 Typp 43.932 15.708 W Single, 25Z 40Z ÍS (1933). F flaked 35Z Ply.2 9.5 16.5 Two 95 (1950). 14 1 1 ""

59 TABhBáB.—Properties of curtain fabrics: Gauze^ net, ninon^ scrim, sheer

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Fabric and item number Weight per square Weave Finish Width Thick- yard ness Warp FÜUng Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Dry

GAUZE, COTTON

Madras: Oz. Pet. In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. 2.01 Fancy gauze. 0.9 38.0 0.0107 56.0 32.0 Grab.. 26 119% of dry 13 32.0

OAUZE, LINEN

Theatrical: 2 1.6 21 21 16.10 15.64 3 ... 1.8 3.6 36.5 21 21 29.3 38.1 4.._„...... _. 1.80 Plain- 5.78 36.4 21.2 21.1 ■Strip.. 29.04 24.57 30.58 5...- 1.80 7.33 36.4 20.8 21.4 29.19 27.95 34.42 L82 6.34 36.4 21.0 21.6 28.96 27.80 31.23 2.27 3.5 36.5 .0125 21.0 19.9 Grab- 119% of dry 26 NET, COTTON Bobbinet: 'Strip.. 15.4 .82 3.76 54.2 .010 14.6 11.2 15.7 5.3 (bone dry) Grab.. 15.5 11.2 9 .84 4.47 54.4 .010 14.4 11.3 14.6 15.6 4.2 (bone dry) 10___. 1.42 17.69 52.0 .015 16.3 11.2 20.7 18.0 5.7 (bone dry) ll-.. 1.48 3.49 50.6 .013 14.3 10.6 15.0 18.6 9.1 (bone dry) »Strip.. Filet: 12.. 1.43 4.44 44.2 .013 12.4 12.0 22.2 25.5 7.4 (bone dry) Net. 13-- L44 3.53 44.1 .015 10.1 10.3 26.3 27.9 8.7 (bone dry) 14-. L71 f-.do.. 16.6 5.71 43.8 .016 10.3 9.7 17.8 5.4 (bone dry) .Grab-. 16.3 12.6 15- 1.74 7.23 46.0 .017 7.9 7.3 17.8 18.8 4.7 (bone dry) 16- 1.83 7.38 45.5 .018 5.9 6.9 17.8 21,1 5.3 (bone dry) 17.. 2.04 4.30 43.4 .016 12.6 12.0 16.3 18.3 8.4 (bone dry) 'Strip.. Acetate: 18... 1.32 45.1 83.9 74.8 17.27 14.27

19-. L4Ô 2.^ 47.9 .006 80.1 72.2 15.4 9.0 (bone dry) 20.. 1.41 16.4 3.30 38.2 .006 81.5 74.3 r._.do. 8.9 14.6 (bone dry) I Grab- 20.4 22.7 21.. 1.44 .54 48.3 83.6 77.1 Strip.. 16.42 15.20 22.. 1.49 37,6 .0051 105.0 96.0 Grab- 15 80% of dry 18 Plain.. 23... 1.52 .58 42.5 85.8 78.9 16.98 9.95 15.41 24_. 1.6 38.9 82 81 15.64 8.62 25- 1.66 2.55 38.9 .007- 85.3 80.4 17.5 9.8 15.4 (bone dry) 26- 1.66 2.41 49.7 ,007 84.7 81.3 16.8 9.6 14.2 (bone dry) 27.. 1.69 48.0 82.0 85.8 14.14 8,76 14.17 28.. 1.8 1.7 82 75 12.3 29- 1.83 Plain 1.30 44.9 85.5 79.9 16.25 14.55 (satin stripe) Strip.. Nylon: 30... 1.70 42.0 86. 2 86.1 65.75 52.32 65.06 31-. 1.88 42.0 85.2 86,2 67.13 32... 57.09 65.80 1.9 108 85 97.22 81.60 SCRIM, COTTON

33- 1.7 64 34.7 34- 15.2 2.01 .011 34.5 5.8 41.5 (bone dry) 32.2 35.. 2.26 —do 1.17 39.7 .011 38.0 44.9 46.9 41.5 ►Plain.. Grab.—.. 47.5 46.8 36- 3.0 .3 35.2 25 24 44.8 37- 41.3 3.2 35H 26 26 37.23 39.05 4.49 .32 34.6 .020 25.0 23.1 74.8 82.0 57.8 (bone dry) iStrip-, SHEER, NYLON

39 ...... 16 40.8 97.7 11.72 11.63

iO-._. 122 112 41.._ , 1.41 Plain...... 43.4 147.2 93.8 Strip.. 49.90 43.10 (stripe)

Î Plus indicates stretch. 2 w indicates warp; F, filling. TABLE á5,—Properties oj curtain fabrics: Gauze j netj ninoTiy .scrim j sheer—Continuée

Fabric—Continued Yarn Fiber Twist (turns per Shrinkage in length Number Elongation laundering inch, direction) Fabric and Reference item Ply or number filaments number Warp Filling Fill- Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp ing Dry Wet Dry Wet

GAUZE j COTTON No. No. No. Pet. Pet. Pet. Pet, Pet. Pet. In. In. Madras: 1.6 1.5 Typp-- 37.993 40.345 - 23Z 27Z m (1933). 1 16 206% of 16 419% of 6.6 18.7 dry dry 1.2 - 11.021 - 28Z 31Znz GAUZE, LINEN Theatrical: S8 (1649). 2- 3.7 3.3 . 5.5 5 5 95 mm, 3 4.0 . "Sä" '. 6.5 6.8Z 8.5Z 1 '""¿QB 3.04 . 1 Í38S.9 ' 135. i Single-— 4.. 2.82 136.1 9.3Z 8.3Z nos (1951), 4.57 3.55 . ■Grex... 391.3 ' 3.45 403.2 ' Í20.2 10.2Z 9.1Z 6_ 3.68 5.00 3.72 - ,6 1.3 1.8 Typp-- 8.278 11.231 IIZ 8Z n (1933). 7 0 0 .5 NET, COTTON Bobbinet: 8 15.0 18.1 +1.4 25.1 +2.9 23.8 9 16.6 15.6 * 10- 6.7 36.0 4.1 24.5 26.0 11 15.8 20.2 +1.2 Filet: 12 10.4 52.1 5.8 5.6 2ply_—. 6i (1943).

13 12.3 46.6 5.1 6.2 14 9.2 46.5 8.4 6.6 L--

15 7.1 56.2 8.6 6.9

16 10.0 44.0 6.8 4.5

17 9.4 51.2 9.0 5.8 NINON Acetate: Denier. 71.03 78.30 20 23.6S 28. IS íOS (1951) 17.40 29.91 33.40 Continuous— 18 (W bright, F delustered 2). 5.8 Typp-- 68.0 65.3 Single 23.9S 27.2S 19 16.2 25.2 4.8 \6Jf. (1943). .._do—. 67.9 63.9 --.do -„ 22. 7S 27. IS 20 12.1 21.2 2.9 9.4 Denier. 71,62 76.40 20 23.3S 27.7S WS (1951). 16.70 26.19 32.09 Continuous 21— (delustered). 29S /« (1933). 276%, of 1.0 0 Continuous Typp-- 82.130 78.079 Multifila- 27S 22 7 157% of 4 ment, dry dry Denier- 73.70 78.86 20 27. OZ 27.3Z WS (1951) 18.65 33.47 22.17 Cnntinuous 23 {del Listered). Conth QUOUS 8R (1949). 24- 26.7 37.7 6.2 2.8 Typp-- 61.5 60.4 1 2"7.9"S 2*9. is 25_—— 30.2 "28" s" ■Single (?4 (1943). __.do.— 60.6 69.2 27.9S 28.6S 26 27.9 24.2 5.0 3.2 Denier- 75.64 77.32 20 27.7S 27.4S WS (1961). 15.87 34.02 15.98 Continuous _-_ 27 (del ustered). 5.6 2.7 Conti QUOUS Single % (1960). 28 31.6 74.94 75.56 20_ 26.8S 27.4S 29 19.08 29.20 23.55 Denier. ■ 76.72 79.06 34 26.2Z 24,6Z \iOS (1951). Nylon: 30.65 38.50 (bright). 30 34.60 i 78. 83 79.76 30. — 28.7Z 29.6Z . 31.37 43.87 32.53 31 Conti nuous._.- Single 8B (1949). 32. . 24.7 27.3 SCRIM, COTTON . 2.0 12.0 Single 95 (1950). 33 . 6.6 . 5.8 3Ï.8Z . 4.8 8.2 - Typp. 23.8 20.8 Single 30. IZ 34 . 6.7 . 12.5 41.4S 1 Ply 38.4S m (1943). . 5.4 8.3 do— . 20.1 20.0 Single 22.4Z 23.5Z 35 . 11.0 . 14.4 2 ply Ply 43.6S 44. 2S . SJ(1950).- . 9.0 14.6 36 . 12.7 . 12.6 . SS (1949). . 20.3 17.3 . —----- 37 " "I'A - 'Typ¿: " "9"4" 3ply—- Singlêlô.'sz 21. IZ 6^ (1943). 38- _ 10.8 \ "Ï.Ï Fly 16.0S 16.3S SHEERf NYLON 0 ,5 103 (1951). 21.05 . Continuous— . Denier . 15.95 21.70 W monofil 39 . 13.47 15.39 F 7 (delustered) . 1.84 .32 do . Grex_- _ 37.83 24.44 Single—- 35.5Z 36.6Z H (1950). 40 . Denier . 48.45 48.56 13 - 44.6Z tt. Mil 1UÜ \^LÍ}ÜÍJ. . 41.16 39.06 45.03 Continuous— 41 (de lustered) i 1 61 TABLE 46 —Properties oj chintz and cretonne: Cotton, plain weave

Fabric

Yarns per Breaking strength Elongation Bursting Fabric and item inch strength number Weight per Finish Width Thick- square ness Warp Filling yard Fill- Warp Fill- Warp ing Method (dry) ing Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet (dry)

Chintz: Unglazed; Pet. In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet Pet. Lb. Lb. 1_._. 4.20 4.10 0.0067 66.6 64.0 Strip.... 43 47 40 45 122 130 Glazed: 2 4.2 10.2 87 85 --do 57. i 48.4 7,8 26.7 3-.-_.- 4.55 5.1 35.7 '"0062" 75,0 63.0 Grab-.. 43 107% of 39 121% of 6 33 dry. dry. 4 4.73 7.53 .0087 66.0 64.0 Strip-.-.. 51 51 42 43 93 110 Water resistant; 5- _-. 5.77 4.5 35.6 ,0097 67.0 61.0 Grab—_ 57 116% of 54 107% of 11 15 dry. dry. Cretonne: 6 4.1 5.3 71. Ö 64.0 Strip-.-. 45.0 41.6 38.4 38.0 65.3 78 7 7 5.61 .9 29.8 ,0135 62.0 47.0 Grab—. 64 117% of 63 154% of 5 17 dry. dry.

1 Plus indicates stretch. ^ W indicates warp; F, filling.

62 TABLE 46. —Properties of chintz and cretonne: Cotton, plain weave—Continued

Fabric—Con. Yarn Fiber length Twist (turns Shrinkage in per inch, laundering Number Fabric mû item direction) Reference number number Ply Fill- Fill- Fill- Fill- Warp ing Warp ing System Warp ing Warp ing

Chintz: Unglazed: Pet. Pet In. In. No. No. 1 2.1 7.5 0.5 0.5 Typp 17.640 19.320 Í20.6S 20. 2S i(im). Olazed: ^Single lê (1933). 9 7.0 2.0 95 (1950). 3 - 3.1 0 .9 1.0 Typp 18. 564 19.572 i 212 19Z îê (1933). 4 2.1 5.0 .58 .58 20.5S 20.2S 4 (1928). Water resistant: 5 .9 1.0 Typp 18.858 12.172 Single. - lôZ 21Z Iß (1933). Cretonne: 6 5.5 9,4 1.1 1.1 20.7 20.0 23.3S 19.8S 109 (1951). 7 .. _ 3.4 .9 .9 Typp 14.305 10.492 W two, F sin- 21S US 12 (1933). gle.2 14Z

63 TABLE 47. —Properties oj table damask

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Fiber, item number, and type Weight per square Weave Pinish Width Thiclc- yard ness Warp Pilling Warp Filihig Method Warp Flllmg Dry Wet Dry Wet

COTTON Oz. PcL In. In. No. No, Lb. Lb. Lb. Lh. Pet. Pet. 1 Mercerized and 4.46 Warp faced, 0.5 57.7 0.0074 61.2 42.0 Grab—- 62 108% 47 94% 0 11 schreinerized. 4/1 satin of dry of dry stripe. 2 Permanent fin- 5.60 Warp faced, .9 74,8 .0079 79.7 78.6 —do—. 64 120% 67 116% 0 11 ished schrein- 4/1 satin of dry of dry erized. stripe. 3*2 Single. —. 5.69 ' .26 70.4 64.6 63.2 65.8 72.2 76.4 (bone dry) 4* Single 6.92 .06 70.6 64.6 64.2 67.0 79.0 85.4 (bone dry) 6* Single —. 6.01 .24 70.4 69.8 77.4 77.6 64.4 66.8 (bone dry) COTTON WARP, VISCOSE FILLINPr

6* Single..——— 4.61 2.56 82.0 60,0 50.4 67.2 41.8 15.8 (bone dry) Damask ■Strip.... 7* Double—.—- 5.04 1.65 84.0 62.0 55.0 59.6 47.4 23.4 (bone dry) 8* Single.. —. 5.55 .98 69.0 56.0 76.8 81.4 54.4 21.4 (bone dry) 9* Double 6.78 1.04 103.8 86.2 81.2 77.6 87.0 39,0 (bone dry) LINEN 10* Single 4.64 1.04 65.4 66.8 62.6 68.4 46.0 49.2 (bone dry) 11* Single 4.96 .75 65.0 66.0 . 60.4 63.2 42.2 41.2 (bone dry) 12 — — ..... 5.06 Warp faced» 2.2 71.5 .0063 77.0 66.0 Grab.... 94 110% 78 94% 4/1 satin. of dry of dry 13 Double - 6.17 7/1 satin 1.2 71.0 .0066 76.0 75.0 -..do—. 91 87% 79 86% 2 2 of dry of dry 14* _...... „.._...... 5.86 .008 82 80 Strip.... 131.2 106.8 15 Silver-bleached.. 6.08 Warp faced, 2.1 75.9 .0101 61.3 61.1 Grab.... 81 131% 58 140% 0 0 4/1 satin. of dry of dry 16» Single -._ 6.27 Damaslr .13 68.6 70.0 Strip.... 97.4 121.8 105.4 120.2 (bone dry)

1 Plus indicates stretch. 2 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (tables 8, 9,10), • W indicates warp; F, filling.

64 TABLE 47.—Properties of table damask—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yarn Fiber length Shrinkage in Number Twist (turns per Fiber, item number, laundering Inch, dhection) and type Reference number Ply Times laun- Warp Filling Warp FUltng Warp Fillmg Warp Filling dered

No. Peí. Pet. In, In. No. No, 1 Mercerized and 7.2 1+0.2 0.9 0.1 Typp- 12.180 '21Z 23Z sebreinerized. 5 (1929), m (1933). 2 Permanent fin- do.. 14.869 19Z 15Z ished sebreinerized. i Single-. 3*2Smgle _.. 3.1 3.1 12.1 19.0 15.5 4* Single- 3.1 2.3 'Cotton (bone 12.8 20.3 16.6 dry). s' Süigle.. 4.6 16.2 112.8 17.1

COTTON WARP, VISCOSE FILLING

6* Single 4.8 4.8 23.7 213.6 18. 5 single 3.0 25.1 ply 7Í (1944). 7* Double.-- 5.4 3.1 W cotton, F 14.2 347 W ply, F 19.5 single 2.9 I denier single. 27. 5 ply 8* Single 6.2 2.3 (bone dry).; 15.1 318.6 18.9 single 3.7 28.8 ply 9* Double.._ 3.8 3.8 25.6 302.7 Single-. 21.3 6.1 LINEN

10* Single 1.6 0 Linen (bone 55.4 57.3 9.1 10.3 dry). 11* Single 2.2 0 ....do 43.4 40.2 8.4 11.0 'Single.. 12 2.2 +.5 L2 1.2 Typp.. 17.136 17.388 9Z lOZ 5 (1929), 12 (1933). 13 Double... 1.0 L6 1,0 ....do-. 15.035 21. 600 ,11Z 15Z n (1933). 14* _. 16 (1933). 15 Silver-bleached, 5.4 +4.2 L5 Typp 11.256 9.660 18Z 13Z 5 (1929), 1^ (1933). ■SLQgle.. 16* Single 2.7 0 Linen (bone 38.8 44.9 9.2 10.3 7i (1944). dry).

365642—se- es TABLE 48.—Properties of sheeting: Plain weave

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Type and item number Weight Thick- per square Finisb Width yard ness Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Method Dry Wet I>ry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

COTTON, BLEACHED

Type 200, percale: Oz. Pet. In. In, No, No. Lb, Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. Pet Pet. Pet. 1 3.67 41.0 105.8 98.6 2 3.58 ""Ô"5î' 81.5 109.0 98.0 Grab-.- 60 55 66 60 25 27 8 17 58.7 69.7 3 3.66 105.4 /Strip-.- .95 Î05.9 iGrab-.- 69.7 76.9 4 /Strip—. 58.5 56.1 1 3.70 1.89 104.4 105.2 \Grab.— 72.7 71.2 57.3 60.0 102.3 /Strip.-- 1 5 - _ .- 3.77 .37 106.8 tGrab—. 62.4 62.7 6 3.80 .46 .0079 104.0 103.0 ...do 62 53" 51 49 11 13 11 17 61.2 62.8 7 3.80 /Strip.— .49 103.6 97.0 \Orap-.. 76.7 81.5 52.2 3.84 102 63.8 8* 1 .4 63 .008 107 59 74 } 9 — 3.89 .2 .0068 109.2 105.7 —do 53 112% of 38 115% of dry. dry. /Strip.... 56.7 62.3 3.94 .84 102.0 10 104.5 \Grab.... 67.7 68.6 1 11 3.97 .0080 104 104 Strip (2 86 12 inches wide). Type 180, fine- eouiit muslin: 3.30 61.3 27.3 96.3 76.6 /Strip.— ] 12 \Grab.... 58.7 30.1 / 13 ._ 3.65 .41 90.0 .0081 91.8 84.0 ...do 53 66 39 33 8 13 13 20 14 3.76 /Strip. __. 53.8 65.9 4.39 94.6 88.6 \Grab.._. 64.9 67.7 3.80 57.2 51.4 16— - .80 92.4 /Strip..-. I 97.1 IGrab-... 62.1 65.9 i 3.94 56.1 52.6 16- 3.92 96.5 90.5 /Strip—. \Grab-..- 62.0 66.3 3.96 51.4 17*. - 4.7 72 90 /Strip.— 67.9 1 .009 96 I Grab-... 63 63 3.98 54.1 48.3 18. - 3.92 87.9 /Strip.... 95.8 I Grab.... 60.8 56,7 3.98 62.1 67,7 '■ 19— - .94 97.2 89.6 /Strip-... \Grab-.- 71.4 73.3 4.00 60.4 56.3 20— - .70 83.0 fStrip-.- 88.5 \Grab.... 69.6 69.4 Tjrpe 140, lieavy- weigbt muslin: 21 - 3.98 1.10 65.0 .0092 73.0 66.0 -.do. 67 58 40 41 11 11 20 25 56.0 63.8 22 4.36 .51 70,0 /Strip...- I 75.8 tGrab..-. 64.9 78.5 r 23* 4.40 5.79 63 .011 73.0 62.6 66.6 45.3 1 iGmb.::: 57.7 58.8 24 4.43 .0080 75 71 Strip-- 49 106% of 62 96% of 12 19 21 29 dry. dry. 53.2 25 4.48 3.52 /-do 67.3 75.0 69.6 iGrab.— 65.5 67.0 72.4 60,9 26 4.54 , .16 67.8 /Strip..- 74.8 \Grab—. 70.1 74.2 63.6 55.3 27 4.64 1.97 68.0 /Strip.-.- 73.8 \Grab...- 70.7 72.7 47.4 28 4.68 4.55 76.4 /Strip..-. 61.1 " 67.8 \Grab...- 50.2 68.3 /Strip.— 64.9 70.4 29 4.60 .53 77.8 69.8 i \Grab.— 73.8 87.0 /'■" 30*.... 4.61 .010 77.0 67.4 Strip— 63.7 65.2 7.0 18.1 69.6 63.8 31* 4.62 .92 72 .011 76 71 /do 1 1 Grab- 79.0 75.9 J — 32. 4.66 .13 71.7 77.2 67.8 33* 4.66 ".^oió" 76.8 68.4 Strip..-. 66.6 60.2 8.0 16.6 34— 4.73 1,90 .0093 74.3 64.4 Grab..- 57 65 60 64 9 ie' 20 24 36* 4.75 .011 76.5 69.0 Strip..-. 66.6 62.4 8.4 17.7 60.6 1 36 4.80 3.86 65.8 f. do 70.7 78.8 IGrab—. 81.7 73.2 64.5 61.0 37 4.81 4.15 68.6 /Strip-... 76.8 IGrab-,.. 72.2 73.4 38 4.81 1.6 .0097 76.1 66.3 --.do 58 134% of 62 143% of dry. dry. 39 4.96 1.84 72.0 . 0093 78.3 74.0 ...do 67 70 69 82 11 13 ]3 20 Type 128, mediumweight muslin: 40*^. 3.89 .009 71 61 f 50.3 29.9 41*.- 4.01 .009 72 62 •Strip—. •J 60.6 38.6 42*. 4.07 .009 71 63 1 62.4 42.0 47.5 43 .- 4.10 4.69 70.2 68.6 /.-do 61.6 \ 1 Grab- 56.5 58.9 J See footnotes at end of table.

66 TABLE 48.—Properties of sheeting: Plain weave-—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yam Fiber Bursting length Twlst (turns Shrinkage in Number per Ineb, direc- Type and item strength laundering tion) number Reference number Ply

Dry Wet Warp Filling Warp Filling System Warp Füling Warp Filling

COTTON, BLEACHED Type 200, percale: Lb, Lb, Pet. Pet, In. In, No, No. 6.2 5.2 1.25 1.33 Hanks/lb- 39.6 47.7 25.7S 22.4S 3 (1928). 2 . 148 180 5.5 3.1 .88 .90 .-.do 38.2 42.4 Single- 24Z 21Z S (1928),-íá (1933). 3___ . 67 4_ _.. 74 Iss (1937). 5..... 58 6 _. . 141 163 .88 .90 Hanks/Ib_- 37.7 42.1 18S 16S ^(1928). 7 84 3B(im7), 8*1 - ._ 7.9 2-M.9 S4 (1942). 9 5.4 .9 1.02 1.02 HanksAb- 34.2 40.0 26S 2ÛS ß (1929). Î0 58 Se (1937). 11_. Typp 32.1 40.1 33Z 28Z S7 (1936).

Type 180, fine- count muslin: 12_ 58 SB (1937). 13 , 142 146 3.1 2.1 .90 .90 HanksAb- 28.4 43.2 Single... 23Z 16Z B (1928), ÏB (1933). 14 60 15 _. 60 m (1937). 16 68 17* 9.5 .4 54 (1942), 18 55 19 65 ^32 (1937). 20 55 Type 140, heavyweight muslin: 21 . -- 125 147 6.5 +2.1 .75 .60 Hanks/lb.. 21.3 25.5 Shigle— 20Z 15Z B (1928). 22. -._ 59 SB (1937). 23* 63 7.9 +5.5 SB (1937), 54 (1942), 24 6 1 1.2 .9 Typp..... 20.1 20.73 Single-- 18.3Z 11.6Z 60 (1943). 25 _ 64 26 - 96 69 27 - 32 (1937). 28 45 29 __ 75 30* - -- --. 76 4£ (1939). 31* 68 7.5 +3.6 32 {m7);M (1942). 32 _ 6.3 .9 1.00 .88 Hanks/lb- 22.4' 21.9 21.9S 12. OS S (1928). 33* 78 overl over 1 4J0 (1939). 34 155 184 5.2 1.7 .91 .92 Hanks/lb-. 20.7 20.7 18S 16S 2 (1928). 35* _ 83 4ß (1939). 36 86 ^32 (1937). 37 - 84 38 5.4 +2.7 1.01 1.01 Hanks/lb- 21.5 20.4 21S 19S 5 (1929). 39 191 227 4.7 2.1 .90 .88 —do 19.8 21.7 Single-- 18Z 14Z 2 (1928), ÎB (1933). Type 128, mediumweight muslin: 40* ... 38.2 7.6 +4.1 ] 41* 65 7.9 +3.7 \l8 (1934), Í9 (1935). 42* 54.6 7.7 +3.0 I ^ ^' ^ ^ 43 54 32 (1937).

67 TABLEAS.—Properties of sheeting: Plain weave—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Type and item number Weight Thick- Width per square Finish ness yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Filling Warp Method Dry Wet Dry Dry Wet Dry Wet

COTTON, BLEACHED Type 128, medium weight Lb. Lb. Lb, Pet. Pet. Pet muslin—Con. TVo. Lb. Oz. Pet, In. In. No. /Strip.. 67.3 47.2 44*. 4.20 1.05 0.011 70.2 64.6 \Grab.. 70 57 'Strip.- 43.27 .0093 48.18 45*. 4.21 5.5 70.8 60.7 Grab-. 54.93 51. 35 Strip. _ 60.7 53.4 46.. 4.26 9.33 69.4 68.8 Grab._ 68.3 64.2 Strip.. 56.9 60.2 47.. 4.26 7.69 69.2 61.6 Grab- 64.9 70.6 Strip.- 49.87 43.03 48*. 4.28 5.5 .0101 70.9 61.8 Grab- 57.80 64.12 / Strip.. 55.2 46.4 49.. 4.30 7.38 69.6 68.8 I Grab. _ 64,7 66.1 / Strip.- 49.93 45.08 50*. 4.30 5.5 .0100 71,2 60.3 I Grab.. 59.03 65.00 fStrip- 50.2 45.5 51_. 4.32 3.70 69.3 69.7 IGrab-. 54,9 58.5 rstrip.- 65.5 65.0 52.. 4.32 4.42 71.2 62.4 \Grab.. 60.5 70.5 /strip.- 66.8 39.7 63.. 4.34 9.99 72.2 60.2 I Grab- 63.5 46.5 /Strip- 64.8 36.8 54.. 4.34 7.60 75.0 61.0 I Grab- 61.1 41.4 Strip.- 49. 6 43.5 55.. 4.35 7.40 70.8 58.8 Grab.. 55.5 52.1 /Strip-, 60.4 48.3 56- 4.44 5.57 72.0 61.0 I Grab- 55.0 57.2 /Strip.. 68. 6 51.3 57- 4.46 1.57 60.4 iGrab- 70.4 63.2 rstrip-. 67.1 62.3 58.. 4.50 8.42 60.6 I Grab-. 71.8 76,6 Type 112, lightweight mus- Im: 59... 3.27 25.79 .0068 60.6 53.0 Grab—. 27 21 13 /Strip..-. 44.3 25.5 60.. 3.28 24.10 59.4 44.2 IGrab.... 48.2 30.6 /Strip.... 61.8 41.7 61.. 5.55 63.6 54. 6 IGrab.... 66.0 49.1 P30.8%.. }46. 00 36.75 62.. 3.70 61 51 UR. H.). (bone dry) 46.2 39.1 4.02 53.5 /Strip.... 63.0 \Grab.-. 52.3 47.2 COTTON, uisr- BLEACHED Type 140, heavyweight muslin: 64...... _. 4.79 80.4 69.6 70.8 65._.„. 4.96 4.03 81.6 .0116 71.0 71.0 Grab-. 61 83 87 29 5.00 4.3 .0128 67.5 71.7 .-do_- 63 149% 145% of dry of dry 67*.. 5.08 .014 69.4 72.3 59.8 68*.. 5.10 .013 69.8 72.4 ^Strip.. 60.4 68.2 5.11 .014 68.8 72.1 54.9 61.5 Type 128, mediumweight muslin: 52.50 65.70 4.29 64. 4 /Strip.- 70*-. --. 90 .0137 63.8 IGrab.- 60.88 62,88 / Strip..- 54.06 66.68 4.35 64.1 64.2 71*_.. 90 .0141 IGrab— 63.23 65.25 52.10 66. 70 4.41 63.9 /Strip... 72*. 90 .0150 64.4 \Grab—. 63.03 66.61 73_. 4.44 82.0 .0112 67.0 60.0 ...do 55 65 46 64 Type 112, lightweight muslin: 74_.. - 75.5 .0114 51.0 .-do.. 46 20 LINEN, BLEACHED 75-. 120 45 48.58 48.91 (bone dry) 76- 4.77 .4 .0088 67.8 64.7 Grab, 88 213% 72 170% of dry of dry 77- ,94 70.5 .0073 64.4 60.0 —do... 91 91 75 LINEN, UN- BLEACHED 4.87 4.3 .0085 48.7 48.2 .do.. 74.0 191% 69.0 140% of dry of dry 1 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (tables 12, 13, 14,15 and figurai). 2 Plus indicates stretch. 3 R. H. indicates relative humidity. 68 TABLE 48.—Properties oj sheeting: Plain weave-—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yam

Fiber length Bursting Shrinkage in Twist (turns strength laundering Number per inch, direc- Type and item tion) number Reference number Ply

Dry Wet Warp Filling Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

COTTON, BLEACHED Type 128, mediumweight muslin—Con. Lb. Lb. PcL Pet. In. In. m. No. 44*.... 74 7.5 +4.6 5^ (1937), 54 (1942).

45*... 3.87 .76 m2 m2 23.18 24.13 m (1951). 46 60 p(1937). 47. 64

48* 4.17 .87 m2 m2 22.88 23.97 m (1951). 49 . 59 3& (1937), 50* 4.50 1.21 1 1 22.13 23.29 106 (1951). 51 .. 56 52 67 53 51 64 _ 54 m (1937). 55 ._ 40

66 . . 49 67. 67

58. 75

Type 112, light- weiglit muslin: 59 86 107 3.9 7.3 .90 .90 Hanks/lb-. 25.2 31.7 18 S 22S ^(1928). 60_- 27 1 m (1937). 61 49

62 __ .81 .75 Single. __ 18.8Z 20. 7Z 6 (1929). 63 50 32 (1937). COTTON, UN- BLEACHED

Type 140, heavyweight muslin; 64 _ _ . 4.7 9.9 1.05 .96 Hanks/lb.- 17.9 23.3 21. IS 12. OS ^S (1928). 65 165 228 6.3 7.3 .90 .75 ...do 18.9 22.3 Single-. 18Z 12Z 2 (1928), îê (1933). 66 8.9 6.3 1.12 1.12 —do 17.9 21.3 21S IOS ß (1929). 67*_... -_ 90 68*_ .- 81 [4^(1939). 69*... 76 Type 128, mediumweight muslin: 70* 5.67 7.75 n^2 23.18 24,13

71* 6.78 8.44 22.88 23.97 406 (1951). 72* 6.83 8.89 1 1 22.13 23.29

73 -. 143 189 8.6 6.3 .88 .90 Hanks/lb- 17.9 25.4 Single... 19Z Î3Z Type 112, light- ■2 (1928), Í2 (1933). weight muslin: 74. Î26 152 9.4 10.4 .88 1.00 ...do 17.6 23.6 __.äo_-.__ 17Z 13Z LINEN, BLEACHED 75 1.08 .92 do 11. 6Z 11.2Z 6 (1929).

76 6.3 2.7 1.81 1.81 Hanks/lb.. 16.7 18.6 13S 14S 6 (1929). 77-- - 217 251 3.1 2.1 1.38 1.75 ._.do_ 48.6 50.1 Single-.- 9Z 6Z 2 (1928), 12 (1933). LINEN, UN- BLEACHED 78.- - - 5.4 7.1 1.84 1.84 -.-do 11.7 15.9 IOS 16S 5 (1929).

69 TABLE 49.-—Properties of dish towels and toweling

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Fiber and Item Weight number per Width or Thick- Weave Fiber Flñlsb Warp Filling square size ness yard Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Dry Wet

Cotton: 02. Pet. Pet. In, In. No. No. Lb, Lb. Lb. Lb. 1*1 4.2158 34 27 40.8 41.2 2* 4.6S7. 52 52 38.2 43.8 3* 6.402 113 58 100.4 79.6 4* 5.428 54 42 Strip-... 56.3 40.4 6* 6.613 68 41 88.6 49.6 6* 5.988 56 43 54.2 47.8 7* 7.343 38 32 64.2 65.0 8*. 7.419 112 57 . 116. 7 89.4 Linen: 9 4.12 Plain - 1.2 16.8 0.0066 39.0 32.0 Grab 37 168% of 24 196% dry. of dry. 10 4.6 2.2 17 X 32)^... .0010 33 37 41 53 40 53 11 5.3 2.9 16Kx3t— .0010 50 34 48 66 40 60 12* - 5.745 65 37 116,7 47,0 13* 6.1 2.7 16^x35M- .0012 35 31 72 88 70 70

14* 6.2 3.9 15H .0014 29 25 * Strip-... 40 61 42 66 15 6.2 2.4 .0012 33 27 68 100 51 81 16 6.3 2.5 17^....-.. .0013 30 25 51 67 53 100

17* 6.760 26 22 90.0 68.2 18* 6.843 32 28 I 72.4 60.6 19 .. 6.88 2/2 left twill 2.4 19.8 .- .0111 35.0 27.0 Grab.... 67 127% 36 92% of dry. of dry. 20* 6.886 33 32 Strip-... 55.2 75.6 21*... 7.1 2.4 17.-.. .0013 30 2S ...do 57 86 49 74 22...... 7.58 Fancy filling .6 14.8 .0114 77.0 73.0 Grab.... 129 155% 123 146% rib bucka- of dry of dry. baek. 23 10.1 3.1 17 X 28H—. .0026 21 16 Strip.... 58 85 39 66 24 11.2 2.8 18 X 283^... .0023 21 19 ...do 55 83 56 75 Hemp: 25 _. 8.80 Plain 1.8 18.0- .0130 39.0 32.0 Grab..- 120 148% 92 149% of dry. of dry, Linen and cotton: 26 4.8 5.8 17H—.— .0010 62 37 ' 46 46 50 82 27* .. —- 5.3 7.0 17 _ .0010 39 31 40 55 49 79 28* -- 5.7 5.8 21x32 .0013 38 30 63 73 50 66 ^Strip--.. 29* 5.746 32 26 64.8 47.6 30*.. 5.951 31 25 48.8 38.0 31 6.1 3.6 17H X 32. __ .0019 36 24 66 69 41 50

32* 6.527 . 33 27 ^ 61.8 49.6 33 6.84 Plain .„... 39.1 cotton; .7 19.0...... 0188 40.0 23.4 Grab..- 70 113% 76 146% 60.9 linen; of dry. of dry. W cotton, Flinen.3 34*...... 6.951 40 32 / 68.4 46.0 35* 7.496 64 28 67.0 54.2 36* . 7.5 4.2 17Mx34„. .0017 42 27 85 96 61 71

37 7.6 3.2 16Kx31H- .0018 42 29 80 91 62 73

38 8.0 3.1 16x3lH— .0018 43 28 Strip..-. 75 86 60 74 39 8.0 3.0 17 X 28H-^- 0020 28 ' 21 49 53 62 90 40*..- 8.035 40 33 79.6 60.2 41 -. 8.1 3.0 17 X 32 .0018 28 21 56 69 55 71

See footnotes at end oí table.

70 TABLE 49.—Properties of dish towels and toweling—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yarn

Fiber length Elongation Twist (turns Fiber and Shrinkage in Number per inch, Reference Item number washing Water absorp- direction) number Warp Filling tion, increase Pîy in weight Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet Warp Filling

Cotton; Pet. Pet. Pet. Pd. Pd. PcL Pd. In. In. Tvpp Typp No. No. 1* 1 3.91 2+.58 165.44 22.48Z 18. 67Z 2* .83 +1.27 253,23. _„ 16.59Z 9.00Z 3* 4.36 +1.11 122,78 17.57Z 13. 44S 4* 6.23 1.12 100,01-..__. 15. 66Z 13.71Z 90 (1949). 5* 4.16 +1.58 129,63... 6.20Z 16.24Z 6* 5.59 .29 122,05 16.74Z 13.88Z 7* 3.87 .36 181.92 14.30Z 11.88Z 8* 5.58 +1.84 130.40 17.50Z 12.68Z Linen: 9 3 367% of 6 183% of .5 0 L9 1,8 8.963 10. 592 9Z 9Z IS (1933). dry. dry. 10 35 (30 min.) 1.0939 8.9486 9.7Z 6.0Z 125 (90 min.). '78 (1946). 11 44 (30 min.).. 8.7427 1.0281 8.3Z 7.6Z 1Î5 (90 min.). 12* 6.68 +1.66 105.50 . 9. lOZ 12.30Z 00(1949). 13* 110 (30 min,) 6.3824 8.3615 3.6Z 7.2Z 176 (90 min.). 14* 23 (30 min.),. 5.4307 4.3374 7,4Z 10.4Z 82 (90 min.). 78 (1946). 15 49 (30 min.).. 6.3916 6.1525 6.9Z 5.1Z 121 (90 min.). 16 45 (30 min.).. 4.6151 5.6255 7.1Z 7.6Z 122 (90 min.). 17* 2.57 2.15 150.25.._ 6.10Z 6.38Z }90 (1949). 18* 3.24 .54 122,19 8.01Z 8.19Z 19 0 5 200% of .3 +.5 1.9 1.0 5.441 4.818 Single 6Z 5Z îêiim). dry. 20* 2.50 .20 100.70 8.18Z 7,63Z 90 (1949). 21* 37 (30 min.).. 5.8945 5.0266 7.4Z 9.6Z 78 (1946). 90 (90 min.). 22 5 0 1.6 .8 1.6 1.3 10.937 11.231 Single HZ lOZ le (1933).

23 lOP (30 min.) 2.1794 2.1880 8.0Z 7.4Z 192 (90 min.). '78 (1946). 24 43 (30 min.) 1,8766 2.2960 8.3Z 7,8Z 75 (90min.). Hemp: 25 17 147% of 17 294% of 5.4 0 2.8 3.0 5.090 4. 536 Single. 8Z 7Z ÎB (1933). dry. dry. Linen and cotton: 26 25 (30 min.) 8. 6923 15.6140 13. IZ 7.4Z 96 (90 min.). 27* 48 (30 min,) 6.8634 7.1098 7.6Z 7.2Z m (1946). 110 (90 min.), 28* 15 (30min.)._ 7,7771 6.6282 10.8Z 9.6Z 37 (90 min.). 29* 8.73 .69 78.83 11.61Z 9.91Z }S0 (1949). 30* 5.38 1.81 185,50 10.23Z 9.80Z 31 99 (30 min.).. 5.2595 7.0030 8.8Z 7.9Z 78 (1946). 166 (90 min.^ 32* 8.28 +.51 69.90 . 13.35Z 13.35Z 90 (1949). 33 7 229% of 33 48% of 3.6 +9.6 1.2 2.6 8-870 3.671 W two, F 14S, 6Z 12 (1933). dry. dry. single. 7Z

34* 5.88 2.52 155.73._ 11.93Z 9.34Z ]90 (1949). 35* 7.97 + L16 149.77 ... 12.81Z 9.43Z 36* 134 (30 min.) 4.8196 6. 7458 10. IZ 9.9Z 186 (90 min.). 37 138 (30 min.) 5.3614 6,1749 10. IZ 10.2Z 183 (90 min,). 78 (1946). 38 128 (30 min.)_ 4.6593 5. 4399 11.2Z 10. 9Z 175 (90 min.). 39 134 (30 min.)- 2.1248 7.2630 13.2S 7.0Z 185 (90 min.). 14.8Z ëi* 10.10 .90 49.21 11.91Z 9.96Z 90 (1949). 41 138 (30 min.) 2,3572 6.9969 13. 4S 7.8Z 7S(1946). 198 (90 min.). 15.9Z

71 TABLE 4:9.—Properties of dish towels and toweling—Contimied

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Fiber and item Weight number per Weave Fiber Finish Width or Thick- square size ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Dry Wet

Rayon m i x - ture; Oz. PcL PcL In. In. No. No. Lt. Lb. Lb. Lb, 42* ...„. 6. 632 Linen, rayon.. 33 27 65.2 54.8 43... 6.8 Linen, cotton, 2.4 17Mx35___ 0.0015 41 29 92 116 50 40 rayon. 44*__.._. 7.03 45 spun rayon, .0175 41 27 80.5 40.3 38 cotton, 17 linen. 45*.-..,...... 7.247 W spun rayon, 29 20 67.4 59.8 F linen, rayon. 46 7.7 Linen, cotton, 2.0 IS X 29 .0022 27 20 72 48 40 31 rayon. 47* . 7.994 W spun rayon, 28 21 67.6 63.8 F linen, rayon. 48 ...... 8.0 Linen, cotton, 2.6 17 .0018 24 19 58 28 60 62 rayon. 49*...... 8.146 W rayon, F 29 20 71. 2 53.6 linen, rayon. 50* 8.548 W rayon, F 23 20 'Strip.... 95.6 85.0 linen. 51*. 8.642 W spun rayon, 29 20 69.4 75.6 F linen, rayon. 52* 8.733 W spun rayon, 26 . 20 65.6 79.4 F linen, rayon, cotton. 53*._ 8.828 W spun ray- 33 28 87.0 61.8 on, F linen, rayon. 54...... 8.9 ' 1.6 15MX31H- . 0022 - 27 20 62 28 82 107 55 10.5 Linen, cotton, 2.4 17Mx29.._ .0022 25 19 SO 22 62 85 rayon. 56„...... 10.9 2.8 17J^x29H- . 0022 25 19 52 28 60 78

57... 11.6 . 2.0 141^x29.. . 0025 25 18 60 25 66 87

1 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (tables 16, 17,18). 2 Plus indicates stretch. 3 W indicates warp; F, filling.

72 TABLE 49.— Properties oj dish towels and toweling--Continued

Fabric—C ontlnued Yarn

Elongation Fiber lengtli Twist (turns Fiber and Shrinkage in Number per inch, Reference item number wasliing Water absorp- direction) number Warp Filling tion, increase Ply in weiglit Dry Wet Dry Wet Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Rayon mixture: Pet. Pet. Pet. Pet. Pet. Pet. Pet. In. In. Typp Tppp m. No. 42* 5,45 2.19 169.78 6.63Z 8.72Z 90 (1949). 43 159 (30 min.). 6.2113 6. 6337 10. OZ 8. 6Z 78 (1946). 204 (90 min.). 44* 53 (1942).

45* 6.15 +1.97 216,23 6.57Z 5.69Z 90 (1949).

46- 179 (30 mm.). 4.3737 3. 7382 6.1Z 6.1Z 78 (1946). 245 (90min.). 47*= 4.70 +1.83 191,99 6.19Z 6.88Z 90(1949).

48 __ ._ 171 (30 mîn.). 2. 2344 4. 5960 5.0Z 5.5Z 78 (1946). 228 (90 min.). 49* 5.27 +.79 190.25 Contii lUOUS 2.24S 6.92Z 50*- 5.03 +.74 156.11. r!n 0 6.57Z 61* 5.49 +.73 186.75 6.00Z 6.45Z '90 (1949). 52* 4.52 2.14 213.13 6.99Z 5.83Z

53*.. 5.61 3.83 159.64 5.76Z 6.79Z

64 ... 154 (30 min.) _ 2.5400 5.4094 5.9Z 6.7Z 209 (90 min.). 55 120 (30 min.) _ 1.9277 2.8688 9.0Z 8.8Z 158 (90 min.). p (1946). 56-._- 119 (30 min.) 1.9232 2.6656 12. IZ 11. OZ 161 (90 min.). 67 115 (SO min.) _ 1.8282 2.Ô797 9. IZ 8.4Z 150 (90min.).

365642—56- 73 TABLE 50.—Properties of Turkish towels: Cotton (weave, 3-pick plain terry unless indicated otherwise)

Fabric

Item Size Yams per inch Brealîing strength (strip) number Weight Yarn per per Area of Thick- Bursting square Typei loop terry ness strength yard Widtb Length Ground Pile Filling Warp Filling

Oz. In. In. In. Sq. in. In. No. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. 1 7.5 1 0.34 17.9 35.4 544 0.031 23 45 26 19.0 35.4 37 2 _. 8.1 1 .36 19.2 39.1 635 .032 23 45 25 18.7 38.8 34 3 . 8.1 1 .38 18.0 36.0 650 .033 22 44 29 20.9 43.2 46 4*3 8.25 1 22H 45 .066 22.2 43.5 25.2 19.6 38.4 33 5 8. S 1 .38 19.4 36.0 698 .033 20 40 29 23.6 35.0 34 6 8.4 1 .35 23.7 47.5 1,021 .033 21 41 26 17.3 48.7 38 7 8.6 1 .35 23.4 44.9 946 .038 22 42 25 18.3 40.8 28 8 8.7 1 .36 21.8 43.8 817 .040 24 47 32 28.8 30.9 41 9 8.8 1 .36 19.3 37.9 635 .041 20 41 26 18.8 53.3 55 10... 8.9 1 .36 22.9 44.8 877 .042 22 44 25 17.8 37.0 34 11 3 9.03 17.5 73.0 31 23 30 (Grab) (Grab) 12. 9.2 1 .37 21A 44.3 838 .036 23 46 26 18.4 39.3 36 13* 9.44 1 2m 43 .072 24.0 48.0 31.5 28.8 31.8 55 14_ ... 3 9,5 68 40 26.4 31.0 70.8 15 9.7 1 .37 23.2 45.3 986 .048 24 46 30 20.5 33.7 38 16.._ 10.2 2 .33 22.1 43.1 881 .038 42 41 33 47.4 32.3 67 17... 10.4 2 .31 21.8 44.4 905 .041 41 41 37 60.9 30.9 83 18 10.7 3 .30 21.6 40.4 855 .047 25 48 36 40.6 37.3 63 19 11.0 2 .31 21.6 43.3 879 .040 42 42 36 64.3 33.9 99 20 11.1 4 .32 23.8 44.6 1,047 .047 38 38 40 55.9 37.6 54

21 11.2 2 .34 21.8 43.6 785 .049 42 42 36 70.0 33.6 87 22 _. 11.3 1 .35 23.8 48.0 974 ,056 28 54 32 25.6 35.6 40 23 11.3 2 .39 23.7 46.1 937 .041 42 42 36 32.6 64.0 59 24 11.4 4 .37 22.0 41.4 803 .050 38 38 35 56.6 32.6 62 25 11.7 4 .35 22.3 46.1 945 .044 43 43 33 69.9 42.1 79 26.. 4 12.3 4 .30 23.3 47.3 1,020 .048 27 26 48 41.4 42,6 65

27 ... 12.3 4 .34 22.3 43.3 899 .045 37 37 38 62.7 34.1 96 28.. 12.4 1 .39 21.6 43.8 881 .055 23 45 26 19.5 37.2 36 29 12.5 4 .35 21.8 45.1 904 .044 37 37 40 55.5 36,4 83

30 12.8 4 .36 24.4 49.2 1,050 .057 40 40 37 59.8 36.1 84 31..._.... 12.8 4 .38 25.6 51.9 1,208 .051 37 37 40 60.2 39.9 86 32* 12.95 4 2m 461^ .092 38.6 38.1 38.1 54.3 36.8 82 33 13.2 Ma .39 24.0 45.7 920 .051 27 83 33 35.5 35.0 59 34 ... 13.3 1 .36 22.6 43.8 832 ,044 25 61 32 21.6 36.2 38 35 13.4 2 .33 23.7 45.9 899 .041 38 37 39 56.1 39.8 56 36...... 13.5 4 .46 21.9 43.8 893 .055 31 31 43 45.1 43.2 77 .37*..-_... 13.50 4 243^ 45 .098 39.5 38.6 38.2 57.6 34.9 84 38 13.6 4 .35 25.1 45.3 965 .049 40 39 42 62.8 39.0 79 39 14.3 4 .44 24.4 44.3 1,004 .052 40 39 38 50.0 33.4 75 40 14.5 4 .40 24.7 47.5 962 .061 41 41 45 58.2 36.0 64

41 6 14.6 4 .50 23.4 46.3 1,172 .064 32 31 42 41.6 37.4 71

42 15.4 3 .38 24.2 47.6 1,018 .065 28 55 37 43.3 41.9 84 43 15.8 4 .44 23.6 46.0 1,014 .057 40 39 55 63.6 51.3 81

Î1, single ply ground warp with half as many ground as pile ends. 3 Terry. 2, single ply ground warp with equal number of ground and pile ends. < 3-pick rib terry. 3, two ply ground warp with half as many ground as pile ends. ' Three instead of 2 pile yarns woven as one, 4» two ply ground warp with equal number of ground and pile ends. 9 3-pick novelty terry. * Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (table 21).

74 TABLE 50--Properties of Turkish towels: Cotton (weave, S-pick plain terry unless indicated otherwise)—Con.

Fabric—Continued Yam

Water absorption Ply Twist (turns per incb, direction) Item number Reference number First Second 5-min, 6-min, Gromid Pile Filling Ground Pile Filling period period

In. In. No. No. No, 1 6.1 2.2 Single Single Single 14Z VIZ 9Z 1 2 4.2 2.8 do _.. do. do 14Z 14Z lOZ !-;g5 (1935), 5?'(1938). 3 5.9 2.3 do do do... I5Z 18Z 9Z 4* _ 6.7 2.5 do. 4Ö (1938). S 0 do.—...._ Single Single 15Z 17Z 8Z 6 5.2 Í.T do do do 15Z 15Z 8Z 7 _. 5.8 2.5 do do-. do..._ 15Z 14Z lOZ 23 (1935), S7 (1938). 8- 6.0 2.2 do do _... do._. IIZ 14Z 13Z 9 5.3 2.8 do. do do... 14Z 14Z 8Z 10 6.5 2.5 do do.. do.._.._... 14Z 14Z 9Z 11 - - do— .— _ do 13Z 13Z 12 (1933).

12 6,4 1.9 do. Single _.- do IIZ IIZ 8Z m (1935), S7 (1938). 13* 7.4 2.9 do 40 (1938): 14 14.9S m (1951). 15. 8.2 3.0 S ingle - Single Single 15Z 17Z 13Z 16 6.0 1.8 do .....do 14Z 15Z 13Z 17. 6.1 2,1 do """do-"""" do 12Z 13Z IIZ 18 „ 6.8 2.0 Two. do— do -_.. 15Z ply 17Z lOZ 15S single 19- 4.9 1.6 Single do- do- Î2Z 15Z 15Z 20- 5.7 1.9 Two do do 12Z ply 14Z 14Z 9S single 21_ 6.8 2.4 Single do do 14Z 16Z 15Z 22.. 6.8 2.5 do do-. do -... 17Z 14Z 13Z 23_._ 4.8 1.4 do do.-.- do -.-. 17Z 17Z 9Z 24- _ 5.6 1.8 Two do- do lOZ ply 16Z 13Z 19S single 2^ (1935), S7 (1938). 25. 6.3 2.2 do do- do .-. 15Z ply 17Z 13Z 17& single 26 6.9 2.4 do Two do-. Î5Z pîy 14Z ply 13Z 12S single 13S single 27-. 3.5 1.2 do Single do 14Z ply 13Z 13Z 21S single 28 5.6 1.9 Single do - __. do 16Z 14Z lOZ 29- 2.9 1.0 Two. do do -. 18Z ply 14Z 12Z 20S single 30- 5.4 1.8 do do -_ do „. 12Z ply 13Z 12Z 13S single 31— 6.0 2.3 .. do do -- do 14Z ply 12Z nz 17S single 32* 5.2 2.1 do . 40 (1938). 33 4.0 1.4 Single Single - Single- - 13Z 18Z lOZ 34 6.3 2.2 do- _- do do- 13Z 13Z 8Z 35... 6.5 2.1 do _. do do 15Z 12Z 14Z -m (1935), 57 (1938), 36 5.4 1.7 Two.. do do 16Z ply 16Z 17Z 18S single 37*.. 5,0 1.8 - do 40 (1938). 38 .- 4,3 1.1 do Single -- .-. Single ^_. 16Z ply 15Z 13Z 9S single 39. 4.1 1.2 do- do- - do- 15Z ply 14Z 13Z 19S single 40 5.8 1.9 do do do.. 13Z ply 14Z 17Z 9S single ^5¿(1935), S7 (1938). 41 4.2 1.2 do do- do IIZ ply 17Z 16Z 19S single 42 5.2 1.6 do do do- 12Z ply 17Z IIZ 19S single 43.- 4.1 1.6 do do .....do 13Z ply 18Z 15Z 13S single

75 TABLE 51.—Properties of upholstery fabrics

Fabric

Yams per Breaking strength Fabric and item inch Weight Weight Thickness number per of pile Fiber composition Width Tufts per per at square square inch 1.01b./sq. Strip Grab yard square yard in. Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Oz. Pd. In. No. Oz. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. 7.6 29,19 mercerized cotton, 50 0.0357 84.3 60.6 77. Q 72.6 71.76 cotton. 62.8

55 .0395 28.0 61.0 44.6

28,0 35.22 cotton, 64,33 rayon.. .0372 93.7 17.6 92.3 81.3 35.5

100 cotton. .0427 70.1 42.8 73.6 67.0

70.76 mercerized cotton, 54 ,0420 87.9 69.5 144.6 79.8 29.27 cotton. 87.4

11.52 .0472 174.2 57.6 139.7 69.4 13.0 ,0544 260.6 33.3 195.3 105.1 15.06 .0652 281.8 61.0 197.5 67.8 223.1

7.0 30.72 mercerized cotton, 49 153.6 43.4 67.2 108.2 69.31 cotton. 7.8 100 cotton 53H .0327 123.9 34.6 158.5 42.0

8.4 46.71 mercerized cotton, 49H . 0337 152.8 51,7 105.4 99,3 63.34 cotton. 8.4 44.51 mercerized cotton, .0308 189.3 56.0 103.0 129.4 55.65 cotton. 8.5 .0373 95.2 21.7 107.3 64.8

9.2 50 .0340 162.3 47.4 107.2 116.3 •100 cotton.. 10.2 54 . 0372 92.5 27.4 88.3 95.6

10.3 54^ .0485 91.5 20.3 98.0 100.2

10.3 37.96 mercerized cotton, 5m .0417 188,6 38.0 1014 141.2 62.05 cotton. 10.7 36.61 mercerized cotton, mu .0402 198.6 38.5 112.8 138.4 63.49 cotton. 13.0 32.22 mercerized cotton, 49 î^ .0562 183.2 47.2 116,6 137.1 53.14 cotton, 14.63 rayon.

24.4

14.7 Cotton, rayon-. 53^ Patterned- 4.0 .0722 41.4 16.8 75.4 81.3 62,1 16.8

15.2 Cotton, mohair-. 54 6.1 55.4 30.2 67.4 27.3 15.0

29.8

15.5 .do.. S4H 54.0 28.4 27.2 14.4 27.0

15.7 U9 cotton, 31.51 mohair.. 64K 343. 6.0 .0807 64.0 12.7 130.5 27.4 25.3 27.0

76 TABLE 51.—Properties of upholstery fabrics-—Continued

Fabric—Con. Fiber Yam

Twist (turns per inch, Number Ply direction) Reference Fabric and item com- number number Com- pres- pressi- sional Warp Filling bility resilience Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

In./in. Brocade: Ib./in. s Pet. No. No. No. No. 1 0.123 35.9 Mercerized cot- Cotton 25.^331 12. 652 Two.- Two 18S ply 18S ply ton. 22Z single 13Z single Cotton-_ _._ 13.906 do 17S ply Î5Z single 2 - -.- .092 23.7 do Cotton 7J71 2.826 do Two spii'al.. IOS ply 6Z ply 7Z single 3f|)single do 10.888 Single 6Z 6Z 3 .117 27.5 Rayon Cotton 14.095 '3^553" Multifila- Single 3S ment. 39 (1938). Ha von 14.368 Multifila- 3S ment. 4 .142 23.4 Cotton Cotton 16. 955 6.238 Two Two 18S ply 8S ply 16Z single 7Z single . . do - 12.259 do.. Í9S ply 7Z single 17S ply 5 .105 36.0 Mercerized cot- Cotton 16. 283 10.923 do. _ Two 21s ply ton, 18Z single 18Z single do 12.821 do 19S ply 14Z single R 7 [es (1943). g

Damask: 9 -- .127 27.2 Mercerized cot- Cotton 48.919 5. 554 Two..- Two --. 17S ply IOS ply ton. 15Z single 8Z single 10 .073 28.5 Cotton ._ do 12.469 10. 864 do Single 12s ply 16Z 12Z single 13S ply 11 .098 33.6 Mercerized cot- do 24. 479 6.682 do Two 24S ply ton. 19Z single 13Z single 12 .097 24.6 do do 32. 885 7.032 do do 25S ply 7S ply 23Z single lOZ single 13 .086 24.6 Cotton _ . do 11. 836 3.180 do Two gran- 24S ply 6S ply delle. 15Z single

14 .094 27.0 do do 28. 279 5.853 do Three 18S ply 13S ply 14Z single 13 Z single 15 .102 27,2 do do 13. 620 2.557 Single Two gran- 17Z 6S ply delle. ^ijsingle 16 .108 23.2 do do 13.479 1.960 Two do 18S ply 6S ply 14Z single ^Jljsingle 17 , - .118 25.6 Mercerized cot- do 34.254 3.524 do Two 26S ply 5S ply ton. 24Z single 6Z single 18 .112 23.2 do do 33.308 3.178 do do 21S ply 5S ply 18Z single 5Z single 19 . . .121 24.0 do Rayon..-..- 29. 547 14. 862 do Multifila- 21s ply 2S ment. 19Z single 2.147 Two 4S ply 3Z single SSO (1938). Frieze: 20 .071 31.2 Cotton (pile) do 8.258 8.628 Two... do Í5S ply 13S ply 5Z single 6Z single Cotton. __. Cotton and 10.033 3.552 do Chain twist. 24S ply 3S ply rayon. 7Z single gjsingle 19S ply 21 .052 23.0 do Cotton. 6.788 8.462 do Two 17S ply lOZ single 13Z single do_.._ . Cotton (pile) 11. 586 8.390 do do 22S ply 19S ply 20Z single 13Z single . Cotton, mohair 6.052 do . US ply (pile). ?|}single . .056 26.6 Cotton .. . Cotton . 8.092 7.118 do Two.. . 17S ply 11s ply 22 17Z single 9Z single do . Cotton (pile 8.406 7.279 do do . 18S ply us ply 17Z single 9Z single - Cotton, mohair - 6.041 do . lis ply (pile). l^ljsingle . .051 29.0 Cotton.__ , Cotton (pile ) 8.799 4.884 do . Two . 18S ply 12s ply 23 11Z single 9Z single do . Cotton . 8.621 4.984 do do . 17S ply US ply 9Z single 8Z single Mohflfr {m\9) _ 6.242 do - 11s ply '1 8Z single

77 TABLE 51.—Properties of upholstery fabrics—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per Breaking strength Fabric and item inch Weight Weight Thickness number of pile per Fiber composition Width Tufts per at square square inch per 1.0 Ib./sq, Strip Grab yard square in. yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp FÜliDg

Frieze—Continued Oz. Pet In, No. Ot. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. 24 15.8 Cotton, mohair 54 405-- 5.9 0.0820 54.0 14.9 99.3 81.5 27,1 29.9

27,0

25 .- 15.9 389 .... 6,0 .0862 54.0 14.1 108.4 84.5 27.5 28.9 26.9

26 15.9 do-_._ . 405 6.1 .0810 27.2 30.0 114.7 91.1 53.8 15.0 27.0

27 15.9 63.52 cotton, 36.47 mohair.. 64 397-.. 5.9 .0858 510 14.3 105.3 86.1 27.2 29.1

27.1

28-— 16.0 62.01 cotton, 38.00 mohair. - 54 417.- -. 6.1 .0853 54.0 14.2 114.9 81.7 27.1 29.1

27-0

^ 16.2 62,81 cotton, 37.18 mohair.. 54 395 6.2 .0865 54.0 14.8 97.1 76.6 27.7 29.2 27.0

30. 16.29 33.3 cotton, 66.7 linen 52.0 34.0 63.0 87 78 32.0 31 - - 16.6 Cotton, mohair 54H 434 7,3 .0932 82.8 30.9 104.4 70.8 27.6

;32 16.6 do. 53^ 411. 6.2 ,0872 54,0 14,8 122.9 81.2 27.8 29.4

27.1

33 17.2 60.47 cotton, 39.72 mohair.. 54 497-. 6.9 .0855 55.1 34.2 69.6 102.6 28.1 17.2 27,8

34.. '- 17.6 Cotton, mohair 54H 467 _ 8.6 .1047 71.2 26.1 81.3 96.8

17.8 13.0 35.6

35 18.7 87.49 cotton, 12.41 rayon... Patterned.-- 13.1 .1020 38.6 32.3 62.9 71.3 41.0

36- 20.35 100 wool ., 60.0 .0640 26 26 46 40 (6 oz./O.l sq. in.) Novelty: 37 8.1 / 48^é . 0335 98.1 36.6 77.9 90.1

38 9.1 45 .0612 72.7 9.3 76.6 73.0

100 cotton 39 10.6 48^1 .0538 45.5 30.7 95.6 119.4 40 12.1 52^ ,0552 91,0 19.3 99.2 85.3

78 TABLE 51.- -Properties qf upholstery fabrics —Continued

Yam Fabric —Con. Fiber - Twist (turns per Inch, Number Ply direction) Fabric and item Gom- Eeference number Com- pres- number pressi- sional Warp Filling bility resilience Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Fining

Injin. Frieze—Continued Pet. Tvpp Typp No. No. No. No. 24 0.045 32.3 Cotton- __. Cotton (pile) 8.241 7.238 Two Two 17S ply 12S ply 13Z single liZ single do._ -,. Cotton 9.040 6.978 do do- 17S ply 13S ply 14Z single 13Z single Cotton, mohair 5.964 . . do IOS ply (pile). Igjsingle 25 .051 30.3 Cotton Cotton (pile) 8.280 6.852 do-.—_ Two 17S ply US ply 14Z single lOZ single do Cotton- 8.395 7.029 do - do 17S ply 12S ply 16Z single 12Z single Cotton, mohair 5.881 do US ply (Püe). lijsingle 26 .056 27.6 Cotton Cotton 8.239 6.902 do Two - . 16S ply US ply 16Z single 9Z single do-. Cotton (pile) 8.624 6.834 do do. 17S ply 12S ply 15Z single lOZ single Cotton, mohair 5.616 do- - US ply (pile). 12|}single 27 .048 30.8 Cotton Cotton(pile) 8.506 6.852 do Two 16S ply 12S ply 12Z single 12Z single —..do- Cotton 8.648 6.808 do do—._- 17S ply 12S ply 16Z single 12Z single Mohair (pile) 6.118 do do -_ US ply lOZ single 28 - .047 29.0 Cotton Cotton (pile) 8.920 6.912 do do 15S ply 13S ply 12Z single 13Z single -—do- Cotton 8.391 7.281 do do - 18S ply US ply ■39(1938). 19Z single lOZ single Mohair (pile) 5.909 do US ply 12Z single 29 .043 32.3 Cotton Cotton (pile) 8.408 6.905 do - Two - 16S ply US ply 16Z single 9Z single do _-^-__ Cotton 8.548 6.890 do do 18S ply US ply 14Z single lOZ single Mohair (pile) 5.917 do- 11S ply IIZ single 30 Cotton --- -_. Cotton 6.392 13,314 Three- Two - 15S, 19Z 24S, 9Z 12 (1933). Linen Cpil e) 5.775 do 6S, lOZ 31 .050 19.9 Cotton - Cotton 8.032 "6"783" Two-. Two 18S ply 13S ply IIZ single 13Z single Cotton, mohair 5.762 do IOS ply (pile). l|i}single 32 .044 31,1 Cotton Cotton (pile) 8.394 6.757 do- - Two 18S ply 14S ply 13Z single 9Z single — ._do—.._ Cotton- 8.582 7.212 do - do—.-.. 19S ply 13S ply 14Z single IIZ single Cotton, mohair 5.861 do 12S ply (pile). }Oi}smgle 33 .045 24.2 Cotton Cotton 12.002 7.248 do - Single- 24S ply 4Z 9Z single 39 (1938). —-_do-.— Cotton (pile) 7.098 7.031 do - do -- 14S ply 4Z 14Z single Mohair (pile) 6. 511 do- lis ply 9Z single 34 ,053 21.6 Cotton -— -- Cotton 12.633 5.122 do Two ... 22S ply 8S ply - 18Z single 8Z single do Cotton (pile) 9.490 6.185 do _ do . 17S ply 9S ply 15Z single 9Z single Cotton, mohair 5.871 do -_ 12S ply (pile). }fi}shigle 35 .109 22,9 Cotton Cotton-_-.-. 7.593 8.126 do Two -_.- 17S ply 18S ply 5Z single 5Z single Ravon fnile)- .. do lis ply 4Z single 36 -. Wool Wool 1.697 L831 Single Single 5S 6S 12 (1933).

Novelty: 37 _ __ .089 26.6 Cotton Cotton—. 16.276 4.964 do Two gran- 12Z 8Zply delle. 4Z single 38 .118 26.7 do do 12.842 1.901 do Four ratine. IIZ 8Z nlv 18Z1 8Z 7S 'Single 15S 39 -- .113 34.4 do do 6.165 2.975 Two Two- 8S ply 5S ply IIZ single 6Z single 40 -- -- .121 26.4 —do— do - 12.545 1.471 do_ Three spiral. 22S ply 4S ply 16Z single ,2|}single

79 TABLE 51,—Properties of upholstery fabrics—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per Breaking strength Fabric and item Weight inch number Weight Thickness per Tufts per of pile Fiber composition Width per at square square inch square 1.0 Ib./sq* Strip Grab yard in. yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Novelty—Con. Oz. Pet, In. No. Oz, In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. 41 13.2 95.05 cotton, 4,79 rayon 0.0663 24.6 15.7 33.9 39.0 24.9 15.9

Rib Weave: 42. „.. 5.9 31.53 rayon, 69.46 cotton 54K .0208 90.6 36.8 50.6 97.2

43.__. 7.3 100 cotton ._ 535é .0333 80.9 20.9 89.2 84.4

44——.— 8.1 46.18 rayon, 53.30 cotton. „. 54 . 0368 88.8 27.4 97.2 62.4

45...-——. 8.3 55H .0428 27.4 29.4 34. 2 64.2 13.8 14.0 46 9.3 53H . 0507 27.6 26.5 32.2 77.2 27.6 47-,_-_.-._-_...-_. 9,9 55H .0502 25.8 30.8 40.8 97.5 25.9

48———- — ... 10.3 493^ . 0458 43.1 29.7 72.8 104.3 >100 cotton.. 44.5 29.4

43,8 29.7

49...... „.-.-_- 10.5 55^ .0643 91.7 9.3 113.5 58.0 9.1 9.5

50.....-...- — .-.- 10.6 " 50 .0543 25.7 18.2 89.0 98.8 76.2 18.1

51 ..... 10.6 533,4 .0485 96.2 31.0 80.9 131.7

52...... 10.8 541^ .0522 87.8 22.2 88.3 103.3 53 11.3 ■100 cotton .0592 51.8 46.0 63.9 120.2 51.6 22.5 54.....-.-....._._. 12.1 47Î4 .0657 25.3 17.0 89.5 110.2 74.1 17.0 17.0 55-„— 12.4 30.38 mercerized cotton, 533^ . 0567 88.6 16, 8 110.0 110.0 70.64 cotton. 29.9 16.5 59.9 16.5

56 ... 12.6 24.38 Mercerized cotton, .0583 63.8 15.0 161.8 87.0 75.84 cotton. 31.7 30.1 62.1

57 12.7 100 cotton.. 55H . 0622 46.7 17.9 84.2 129.7 46.7 17.8

SS„..-.- 13.1 24.00 rayon, 75.79 cotton.. .0575 59.1 11.9 76.0 88.8 23.6 11.8

47.6 11.9 59——— 13.3 26.87 mercerized cotton, 53 .0587 91.1 17.3 152.3 94.0 73.13 cotton. 89,9 16.8 1

80 TABLE 51.— Properties of upholstery fabrics-—Continued

Fabric—Oon. Fiber Yam

Twist (turns per inch, Number Ply direction) Fabric and item Com- Reference Com- number number pres- Warp Fülíng pressi- sional bility resilience Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

In./in. Novelty—Con. Pet No. No. No. No. 41 0.117 23.6 Cotton Rayon Three.. Multifila- IOS ply ment. 12Z single do Cotton 13.496 L466 Two Four ratine- 12S ply lOZ ply 6Z single ISZ"! I^^smgle 15Sj Rib Weave: 42 - - ---. .145 21,6 Eayon do 28.821 5.340 Multiflla- Single...—. 3S 9Z ment. 43 .104 26.2 Cotton-... do 13.231 3.686 Single Three gran- 19Z 5S ply delle. llZl lOZUingle 13Z| 44 .114 27.4 Rayon. do 15.127 3.792 Multiflla- Single 3S HZ >39 (1938), ment. 45 - .055 28.6 Cotton do 6.670 e.O20 Two gran- do IOS ply 9Z delle. HZ single do 10. 513 Single 8S do 10. 698 — do lOZ 46 --- .036 29.9 do Cotton 9.897 4.190 do Single 15Z 6Z do 6.219 Two 13S ply 15Z single 47 .036 39.6 do Cotton 8.654 4.998 Single Single 15Z 7Z do 6.464 Two lis ply 14Z single 48 --- .079 32.0 do Cotton 21.262 7.828 do Single 19S ply 12S i9Z single do do 18.253 16.806 do do 18S ply 23Z 16Z single do do __ 18.109 8.919 -—do do 20S ply 14S 13Z single 49 .114 23.4 do do 12.611 8.718 do Two. 14S ply 17S ply 6Z single 15Z single do 2.228 do 5S ply 4Z singló do 1.899 Four ratine. lOZ ply 12Z1 li Single 6Zj 60 ._ .098 36.3 Cotton .—.do 29. 317 42.083 Two Two 22S ply 23S ply 2îZ single 15Z single do do 9.827 2.076 do do 16S ply 4S ply 14Z single 2Z single 51 .123 22.4 do_.„. do 12.138 3.447 do Two gran- Î4S ply 5S ply delle. 9Z single ^Ijsingle 62 __ _ .137 23.7 do _-_-do IL 828 2.118 do Two_. 18S ply 5S ply 7Z single 4Z single es .112 29.7 do do 17. 263 4.602 do Single 21S ply 8Z 16Z single do do 13.477 32.433 do do 23S ply 25Z 14Z single 64 . .119 27.1 do _ do 12.830 2.141 do Two 16S ply 5S ply 13Z single 4Z single do do 12.919 5.393 do Single 14S ply 7Z 16Z single do 17. 570 Two. 29S ply 19Z single 55 .086 35.6 Mercerized cot- do 16. 399 24.682 Two do 15S ply 29S ply ton. 14Z single 14Z single Cotton do.. 23.974 3.239 do do 29S ply 5S ply 15Z single 4Z single do _._. do IL 656 5.058 do Single 17S ply 9Z 20Z single 56 . _ .094 27.1 Mercerized cot- do 13. 661 16.666 do Two 18S ply 23S ply ton. 17Z single 18Z single Cotton do 26. 806 3.579 do Single 32S ply 7Z 25Z single do 12.881 do 17S ply 39 (1938), 12Z single 57 .081 24.1 _ do Cotton 12. 749 4.115 Two gran- Single 21S ply 7Z delle. 8Z single do - do _- 12. 605 L967 Two Two. 19S ply 6S ply 8Z single 4Z single 58 .096 23.7 Rayon __.. do 14. 206 32.803 do do HZ ply 32S ply 4S single 19Z single Cotton do 12.695 2.020 do do. 17S ply 5S ply 7Z single 3Z single do do IL 244 2.800 Two gran- Four knot... 23S ply delle. 19Z single 59 .107 41.7 Mercerized cot- do 16. 533 24.487 Two Two.. Ï9S nlv 25S ply ton. 15Z single 19Z single Cotton.. _ do 12. 370 2.030 do 1 do 18S ply 6S ply I 1 1 1 18Z single 4Z single

81 TABLE 51 .—Properties of upholstery fabrics—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per Fabric and item inch Breaking strength Weight Weight Thicîoiess number per 01 pile Fiber composition Width Tufts per per at square square inch l.Olb./sq. Strip Grab yard square in. yard Warp Pilling Warp Filling Warp

Rib weave—con. Oz. P.L In, No. Oz. In, No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. 60— _-_. 13.4 0.0602 52.7 13.1 84.4 64.9 77.7 13.1 13.2 16.4 .0670 47.7 36.3 138.2 160.2 47.6 17.6 100 cotton. 573^ .0792 65.8 83.4 45.3 4.7 26.2

9.90 ,0302 39.0 32.0 93 (6 oz./O, Isq. 39.0 in.) 39.0 64.0 135.0 78.6 59.5 126.6 69.5 ,0562 138.7 55.7 123.5 129.0 132.4 .0628 137.0 78.7 66.3 129.8 85.0 .0598 159.4 43.6 124.2 121.5 138.1 .0677 176.4 77.8 172.5 105.0 181.3 .0554 174.8 77.2 143.8 116.2 176.5 .0605 171.7 78.4 138.0 93.3 148.0 .0558 172.9 76.6 113.4 74.5 135.4 .0570 173.9 79.2 135.1 106.7 146.1 .0537 176.3 78.8 197.0 116.6 198.3 ,0602 175.2 77.3 139.5 114.0 182.7 .0578 212.6 72.2 131.2 115.0 163.8 .0591 175.0 88.6 113.8 97.4 160.1 .0580 184.1 76.0 130. 8 164.0 169.5 .0610 179.2 76.6 97.1 98.0 115.1 .0743 131.0 75.6 111.5 190.6 134.0 .0744 146.6 67.1 128.7 151.0 143.5 .0628 144.1 63.4 108.6 146.4 135.0 .0659 155.5 50.9 122.4 149.9 138.2 . 0738 131.1 70.4 106.6 172.1 110.2 .0650 140.3 64.0 96.0 126.4 116.4

11.7 32.95 rayon, 67.00 cotton.._ 5áH Patterned- 3.91 .0490 28.2 34.0 76.2 27.7 n.9i 52.0 43.0 44.0 13.1 43.38 mohair, 56,40 cotton. Patterned— 5.77 .1171 42.3 29.5 60,0 97.6 13.8 30.71 mohair, 69.00 cotton. 54 163 6.00 .0735 19.1 34.0 94.3 19,0

15.6 24.90 mohair, 75.17 cotton. 541^ 197.. 7.90 .0915 24.7 35,0 45.6 82.3 24.6 16,6 41.22 mohair, 58.70 cotton. mi 6.61 .1138 48.1 76.4 61.0 113.0 23.8 16.98 56.5 mohair, 43.5 cotton... 62.2 31.0 58

82 TABLE 51.—-Properties of upholstery fahries —Continued

Fiber—Con. Fiber Yam

Number Twist (turns per inch Ply direction) Fal:>ric and Item Com- Reference number Com- pres- number pressi- sional Warp Filing bility resüi- enee Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Klb weave—con. Pd. Typp Typp No. No. No. No, 60 0.086 21.8 Cotton Cotton 13.450 3.262 Two__ Single 20S ply 3Z 12Z single do 13.536 13.670 do Two-_ 19S ply 23S ply 15Z single 17Z single do 2.161 Four knot-- 61 "■."Ö68" "cöttönllllllllll do 2.61S Two —. Single 12S ply &Z 12Z single > do 8.703 do 12S ply 39(1938). 15Z single 62 .— .068 22.8 ....-dO-.._ Cotton 12.188 2.959 do- Twoslub... 20S ply 23S ply 17Z single lOZ single do - 6.539 2.714 do do...... 18S ply 23S ply 12Z single lOZ single .. do 6.767 Two 8S ply 8Z single Tapestry: 63. Cotton. - do - 29. 500 85. 522 Two-- Single 12S, 15Z 24Z m (1933). 12.348 8.058 do do 21S,8Z 14Z 15.187 do 21S, 8Z 64- - 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72- — 73 74 [es (1943), 75 76 77- . 78 _ 79 -__ 80 - . -- 81 __ 82 83- 84 _

Velvet: 85._. __- .103 31.5 Cotton.> .._ Cotton 8.494 5.080 Two .Two 20S ply 12S ply 5Z single 12Z single 39(1938). Cotton, rayon 8.334 do 20S ply (pile). 17Z single 86 Cotton Cotton 13.633 8.484 do Two 21S, 17Z 9S, lOZ IB (1933). Cotton (pile) Single. ■ 87-- .387 25.0 Cotton, mohair Cotton 9.748 3.754 Two do 19S ply 9S ply (pile). IIZ single 3Z single 88 - . .021 30.6 Cotton - do 6. 586 4.626 do -. do 138 ply IOS ply IIZ single 12Z single Cotton, mobair 8.488 do- 16S ply (pile). 15Z single 89 - .452 36.7 Cotton-.- Cotton 9.657 5.175 do „ Two.- 24S ply US ply 5Z single 8Z single 39 (1938). Cotton, mohair 6.886 -_„ do. - _- 15S ply (pile). IIZ single 90 .326 28.2 Cotton Cotton 15. 667 6.489 do - Two.. 22S ply 6S ply 15Z single lOZ single Cotton, mohair 14.955 do _. 21S ply (pile). 8Z single 91 do Cotton 8.236 5.969 Three Single. 16S,16Z lOZ ÍS (1933). " Single.

83 TABLE 52.—Properties of batiste, cambric, longcloth, and nainsook: Cotton^ 'plain wea^e

Fabric

Yams per inch Fabric and item Breaking strength Elongation number Weight per Finish Width Thick- square ness yard Warp Filling Warp Fining Method Warp Filling (dry) (dry) Dry Dry

Batiste: Pet. In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. 1...... 1.49 0.6 ret. Pet. 0.0039 liS.O 107.0 Grab-. 23 187% of dry 16 138% of dry 5 2 , 2.6 1.0 . 0079 102.4 91.4 Cambric: 3___-.._.. 2.79 36.5 .0057 87.0 81.5 Grab . 37 119% of dry 28 114% of dry. 4 3.0 2.8 .0085 86.4 75.1 Longclotb: 5 .... 2.75 .0073 81 Strip (2üiches). 52 3.02 .0082 83 dO-„_...._. 72 Nainsoolc: /Strip L530 39,0 .00537 111.6 110.8 26.75 15.45 IGrab 28.65 19.35 7.87 1 1.28 38.5 .0052 92.2 80.6 Strip.-.- 31.79 1 15. 38 .4 34.0 .0042 88.0 78.0 Grab- - —- 20 140% of dry. 10 130% of dry. 10._.. 1 2.82 36.25 .0056 96.2 75.7 Strip 29.08 lU... 13.88 1,.71 1.19 36.00 .0052 99.6 75.3 .—do-.. 27.48 11.64 12____ 1, 0 .0054 101 100 Strip (2 inches) - 50 13.,.. 1.92 0 .0050 98 96 do ._. 65 14..._ 2.01 1.93 36.00 .0052 108.4 92.3 28.84 14.56 15-... 2.06 1.23 36.00 .0050 108.0 94.2 Strip-. 32. 06 16-... 17.35 2.13 1.32 38.00 .0061 85.1 73.4 33.59 17.67 17._._ 2.234 36.52 . 00781 79.6 .do_. 31.90 14.35 \Grab-. 35.55 16,75 6.50 9.50 18. 2.322 36.037 .00657 94.1 80.0 /Strip.. 25.90 18. 95 \Grab-. 31.70 23.15 5,39 8.87 /Strip.. 19- 2.385 37.0 .00964 63.9 57,8 33.20 19.50 IGrab-. 36.35 23.95 5.71 10.2 20. 2.403 35. 50 .00629 105.5 94.6 /Strip.. 29.05 28.90 \Grab-. 32.85 33.35 6,97 12.07 21„ 3.060 36.92 .00885 73.4 70.1 fStrip- 39.65 30.45 iGrab- 46. 65 37.20 6.72 10.14

84 TABLE 52. —Properties of batiste, mmhric, longdoth^ and nainsook: Cotton, plain weave— -Continued

Fabric— C ontiniied Yarn

Fiber length Bursting Twist (turns per Shrinkage in Number Crimp Fabric and strength laundering IneL, direction) item Reference number number Ply Dry Wet Warp Filling Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Batiste: Lb. Lb. Pet. PcL In. In. No. No. PcL Pet 1 0.7 2.6 L6 L5 Typp-_. 78.750 108.990 Single. _. 35Z 36Z 12 (1933). 2 - 3.5 2.4 --do 50.2 45.8 32. OZ 38.4Z 5.4 12.9 67 (1944). Cambric: 3 2.0 .6 10 LI _-do..... 36. 775 37. 716 Single-_ 32Z 26Z IS (1933). 4 6.2 2.8 ...do 32.6 29.8 26.7Z 20.9Z 5.3 9.5 67 (1944). Long clo til : 5 .„do 36.3 36.3 24Z 20Z }^r (1936). 6 do 34.9 36.3 24Z 26Z Nainsook: 7 22.05 Cotton.. 94.4120 136. 7399 Single. _- 43.90Z 40.45Z 3.26 7.74 S4(im7).

8 . do .. 63.9 91.5 30,4Z 29.7Z 20 (1935). 9 .9 3.9 1.1 1.1 Typp— 45. 746 81.178 Single-.- 19Z 18Z m (1933). 27.3Z 10 Cotton.. 63.9 85.4 33. 5Z }^ö (1935). 11 . . do-— 63.9 88.5 33.8Z 26.7Z 12 28Z 25Z Typp.._ 55.3 80.0 ■27 (1936), 13 do 50.0 76.9 27Z 28Z 14 / 61.7 95.1 35. 5Z 27. 5Z 15 61.0 83.4 31. IZ 25.4Z m (1935). 16 44.1 64.4 26.9Z 26.2Z 17 . 21.0 65. 5009 100.3007 Single-.- 28.798Z 29.061Z 2.546 10.608

18 22.8 58.6823 58.0543 .-do 33.84Z 25.646Z 3.399 8.206 Cotton.. 19 28.699Z 25.054Z 3.51 11.235 23.0 35. 8074 45.2169 -_dc »34 (1937) 20 40.9 67.1452 57.9744 ...do—- 25.446Z 21.652Z 3.477 10.166 21 33.6 34. 7792 40.1057 ...do 24.214Z 24.838Z 3.42 8.554

85 TABLE 53.—Properties of broadcloth: Cotton^ plain weave

Fabric

Bursting Shrmkage in Yarns per inch Breaking strength strength laundering Item number Weight per Thick- square Finish ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet

Type la.—Warp 100-131 (inclusive) yarns per Inch i

Oz. Pet. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. Pd. 2.0 0.3 127.0 64.2 Strip.. 58.8 69.0 19.0 23.8 105.0 108,9 5.1 1.3 /Strip.. __- 58.8 20.7 2.96 1.84 0.0064 102, 8 58.0 50.6 5.8 .7 I Grab. ... 66.6 24.3 /Strip 58.1 20.1 2.96 2.03 .0068 102.0 55.8 42.7 1.0 lOrab 67.5 18.9 /Strip 57.0 18.3 2.40 .0071 103.0 57.6 39.3 6.6 .6 3.00 I Grab -. 62.0 19.8 /Strip-, 61.5 18.6 .0061 104.0 57.2 45,9 6.3 .7 3.00 .70 IGrab- - 68,6 21.2 /Strip 1.17 .0065 103.4 58.0 70,7 28.1 56.8 6.3 1.8 3.00 IGrab 84,2 26.7 /Strip.. _ _. 20.1 3.18 ,0063 103.8 56.4 66,7 42.9 7.5 .1 3.02 IGrab .. 64.3 17.1 /Strip-. -. 77,3 30.9 .0084 131.0 65.6 56.1 1,0 2.3 3.10 \Grab 86.6 32.5 3.1 1.0 122.0 62.0 Strip-. 58.2 52.2 19.4 22.4 7.0 .2 10. 3.1 .9 105. 5 57.5 ._.-do-.. 47.0 44.4 24.6 24.2 8.1 1,6 4.14 .0074 103.4 55.8 /...-dO-_._ 43.9 18.5 6.7 2-h.l 11.. 3.16 \Grab 51.3 19.4 72.3 23,4 12. 3.16 .64 ,0065 115.4 55.6 /Strip- 47.8 8.7 0 IGrab. 80.4 22.9 /Strip- 74.6 20.6 13. 3.16 .71 ,0067 119.2 58.4 52.7 6.3 .2 IGrab 84.6 21.6 45.45 17,30 14. 3.166 . 00972 100.7 58.4 /Strip-. 41.56 IGrab. 51.85 21.3 /Strip ..-. 23.45 15. 3.176 .00726 130.7 64.1 65.45 51.95 \Grab-. 75.7 25.0 18.2 16. 3.20 2.49 .0069 116.0 57.2 /strip 57.8 43.5 7.3 IGrab-.. 68.8 19.7 22.5 3.20 3.50 104.8 60.4 /Strip . 59.0 7.0 .0071 IGrab 68.8 26.1 54.8 18_ 3.2 .5 106.0 60.5 Strip. 57.8 20.4 9.1 2.6 19. 3.2 2.7 104.5 56.5 do 49.4 56.6 15.6 22.8 2.1 2.4 3.86 .0065 113.8 56.4 /--..do 60.3 17,4 41.1 7.9 .7 \Grab 70.1 19.0 21. 3.3 3.8 118.4 43.8 65.2 76.4 11.. 6 In. 4 74.0 5.3 1.2 22. 3.303 1.44 "."oii"" 127 64 Istrip 84.25 19.73 2.98 .0095 103.6 61.2 /—.do. .._ 56.4 27.3 51.4 1.0 .3 23., 3,32 IGrab 61.4 29.5 20.35 24. 3.376 .00776 131.0 68,5 /Strip 51.20 61.1 \Grab 61.95 21.6Í5 25. 3.4 .2 115.2 58.4 Strip-.. 63.4 72.6 17.4 20.6 95.2 109.4 4.8 2.9 25.6 26. 3.42 2.16 .0093 116.0 59.2 /....do 56.8 45.6 2.6 1.3 \Grab 64.1 28.8 27. 3.59 1.28 103 43 Strip-.. 39 21 1.98 116.4 61.4 24.1 28. 3.60 "."oiôî" /.-=-do 64.7 61.5 \Grab.-. 77.1 27.4 +.1 3.81 1.03 ,0095 125 69 Strip... 72 31 15 2 See footnotes at end of table.

86 TABLE 53 — -Properties of broadcloth: Cotton, plain weave—Continued

Yarn Fiber length Twist (tnms per Number Ply inch, direction) Item number Reference Number

Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Füling

Type la.—Warp 100-131 (inclusive) yarns per inch i—Continued

In, In, No. No, No. No. 1 _ 1.3 1.2 34.6 41.2 23.4Z 22. OS 109 (1951). 2 _ '30.551 4L 665 '20.6Z 27. 2Z

3.. _ 26.403 35.870 22.4Z 26.6Z

4 25.471 40.196 22.4Z 26.2Z

6 „_ íTypp.. 25.916 36.422 >Single— Single 23. OZ 26. 5Z >43 (1939). 6 27.778 34.097 21.4Z 23. 4Z 7- 28.386 35.640 22. OZ 24.3Z 8 „ / ^ 33.672 37.344 , 21. 5Z 19.3S 9_.„.._ _ 1.4 28.2 25.9Z 25. IZ 1.0 39.6 jiOS (1951). 10 1.2 1.2 27,7 34.4 25.9Z 24.4Z 11 '27.989 34.061 23. 5Z 22. OZ

12 . _ -Typp > .- ■ 27.927 34.574 23. 3Z 26. 6Z ■43 (1939), 13 I 28.620 40.802 23. OZ 23.8Z 14 34.430 44. 258 ^Single Single 20.708Z 20.948Z 1 k(1937). 15 43.3862 46. 5361 24.018Z 13.757S 16 __..- -, Typp 26. 580 44.006 24.2Z 28.4Z 1 43(1939). 17- do 26. 646 30.609 . 21. 5Z 28. OZ 23.9Z 24. OZ 18 .9 1.0 26.5 38.6 ^109 (1951), 19 L2 1.1 29.4 36.1 23.3Z 27. 5Z 20 ._ . Typp - -_ 26.207 38.423 Single -- Single _. 25. 2Z 27. OZ 43 (1039). 21 _.. 1.2 1.2 26.5 31.3 24. 5Z 25. IZ W9 (1951). 22 Typp 33.07 48,77 24Z 24S SS(1938). 23 do. 24.676 32. 288 Single — Single 26.2Z 24. 5Z 43 (1939). 24- 42.0028 49.085 .-..do- do 21.885Z 13.887S 54(1937). 25 _._ 1.0 1.1 24.8 40.9 25.4S 25. IS 109 (1951). 26 . . . - Typp 27.134 32.116 Single. .-. Single _. 25.2Z 22.5Z 43 (1939). 27 - - 9^(1950). 28 — Typp 26.293 32. 563 Single Single 24.4Z 24.4Z 43 (1939).

29-, do. 30.6 39.3 Two do IIZ IOS 5Ô (1942). US (ply)

87 TABLE 53.—Properties of broadcloth: Ootton, plain weave—-Continued

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Bursting Shrinkage in strength laundering Item number Weight per Finish Thick- square ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet

Type lb.—Warp 132 and over yarns per inch ^

Oz. Pd. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. PcL So. 2.90 0.22 0.0086 149.0 74.6 /Strip -- - 69.0 32.2 \Grab 74.5 33.9 }- 67.7 1.0 2.96 /strip - _—_- 71.1 31.8 .27 .0075 147.4 71.2 \Grab 83.6 29.9 }-- 68.0 3.8 /Strip 69.9 33.2 32 3.00 .25 .0065 152.4 69.2 6,6 \Grab 78.4 35.7 }--- 59,0 •i^ 3.00 .60 .0074 156.0 81.6 /Strip-, 75.3 35.5 Grab 85.0 44.7 }- 70.9 3.2 1.0 34 3.09 2.32 . 0064 132.0 64.2 Strip -_ 53.58 17.68 35 3.10 4.43 .0064 132.4 64.3 do 52.72 17.79 36 3.10 138.6 56.6 /Strip... 83.6 30.4 .0090 \Grab 89.1 31.2 }-- 62.7 1.3 +.6 37 3.11 2.74 .0061 150.2 74.4 Strip _- -_ 60.77 24.21 38 -„„ 3.12 2.90 .0065 132.4 64.0 do 57.16 20.23 39 3.12 1.13 f_.__do 62.4 20.7 9 .0097 138.0 68.8 \Grab _ _. 73.5 22.2 48.4 3.4 71.4 40 3.12 1.53 .0072 133.6 63.8 /Strip. 26.1 \Grab 80.9 26.4 1 54.9 2.8 2.0 68.4 41 3.14 .73 .0069 133.0 64.0 /Strip.. ._ 30.3 tGrab 78.8 31.4 53.2 4.4 1.6 /Strip. __ 50.8 13.9 42 3.16 3.23 .0060 138.0 55.4 6.6 \Grab _ 58.0 16.7 33.9 1.0 43 3.16 1.54 .0080 140.6 59.2 fStrip 83.0 23.7 \Grab 89.1 30.7 50.8 4,1 .3 69.1 44 3.18 1.15 .0079 134.0 65.6 /Strip.. 30.9 \Grab 83.5 30.4 58.3 3.0 +.1 45 3.19 2.62 ,0066 132.1 64.2 Strip 53.05 17.67 3.199 .00790 148.2 73.2 /- do 62.85 22.25 72.84 25.9 } 52.0 47 3.20 .44 . 0088 132.2 66.8 /Strip 74.6 33.1 \Grab 73.4 37.5 63.8 .4 1.6 48 ------3.208 156.2 70.9 /Strip 68.30 26.20 .00695 Grab 80.1 32.3 62.85 /Strip 74.8 24.7 i= 49 3.24 1.18 .0085 60.6 140.8 IGrab— 83.4 31.4 } 71.1 2.7 .4 50 - - 3.25 2.80 .0063 132.2 64.3 Strip 53.36 18.79 51 3.30 .52 .0101 140.2 59.4 /Strip... 74.2 25.7 iGrab 82.7 31.8 78.8 +.8 1.0 52 3.32 .44 .0091 134.0 67.2 /Strip 77.6 32.2 \Grab _.. 86.0 33.2 62.3 .9 .7 /Strip- 67.2 22.2 53 3.32 .95 .0085 141.0 60.6 \Grab 78.6 19.1 }- 51.2 1.3 .3 54 3.34 .55 .0086 142.4 58.8 /Strip-. 78.3 25.4 \Grab-.- 90.0 26.6 52.7 3.7 +.3 55 3.36 .81 .0095 142.0 58.4 /Strip 75.8 30.3 \Grab-._ ._ 87.7 31.9 67.4 1.0 H-.2 56 -_.. 3.4 .6 135.0 58.0 Strip -. 57.4 ""'52'4 19.0 19.6 2.7 4 /Strip 57*3-- 3.43 .00875 157.8 77.5 52.25 31.60 IGrab 65.30 36.90 }- 46.45 58— 4.1 142 58.0 Strip. 60.3 45.0

See footnotes at end of table.

88 TABLE 53.—Properties oj broadcloth: Cotton^ plain weave—Continued

Yarn

Fiber length Twist (turns per Number Ply inch, direction) Reference Item number Number

Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Füling Warp Filling

Type lb,—Warp 132 and over yams per ineb i—Continued

No. No. No. No. 42. 887 41.050 24. 8Z 18.8S

31.. 40. 950 40. 556 26. OZ 19, 5S }Typp. ^43 (1939). 32.. 45. 444 33. 496 26.7Z 17.3Z

33.. 42. 227 44.441 27.2Z 21. 7Z Cotton_. 41.2 49.9 22.3Z 21. OZ 34.. 20. 6Z ;eö(1935). 35. ...-do.. 40.4 48.0 19. IZ 36.. Typp... 35. 804 36. 714 21. 9Z 18.6S 45(1939). 37. Cotton,. 48.5 51.0 22. IZ 16.2Z 1^0(1935). do- 40.1 48.1 20. 5Z 20.9Z 32. 462 39. 762 28. 7Z 23.6Z

40. 34. 736 37. 633 21. 2Z 20. 4S

41. 33. 900 35. 987 25.2S 23. IZ )Typp. \4S (1939). 42.. 33. 689 31.120 27. 2Z 26. 9Z [single Single 33.190 36.633 26. 6Z 23. 4Z

44.. 32. 067 38.198 27. 2Z 21. 4Z 45.. Cotton. 41.3 49.6 19. IZ 17. 3Z áO(1935). 46.. 61. 0340 56.8485 23. 663Z 16.738S ^4(1937). 43 (1939). 47.. Typp. 32. 887 35. 950 24. 8S 22. OZ 48.. 56. 0412 45.2768 22. 341Z 13.462S 34 (1937). 20. 2Z 43 (1939). 49-. Typp._. 33. 985 41. 915 27. 4Z 50.. Cotton.. 41.7 50.4 22.7Z 20. IZ 20 (1936). 51-, 32.178 34. 617 23.8Z 19. 9S 52., 33.762 39. 281 20.9Z 17.3S

53. íTypp. 33.852 36. 642 24.6Z 18. 6S 43 (1939). 54., 31.977 41.369 27. 5Z 21.4Z 65.... 34. 616 35. 109 . 24. 6Z 17.3S m (1951). 56.... 1.3 1.3 37.8 30.2 24. 9Z 32. 5Z Í0áí(1951). 57* 3- Cotton.. 49.70 43.30 Single ... Single 33.68Z 20. 54Z Typp— 37.1 21.0 66 (1944).

89 TABLW 5Z.—Properties of broadcloth: Gotton, plain ^ea^^e—Continued

Fabric

Yams per Breaking strength Bursting Shrmkage in inch strength Item numbtir Weight laundering per Finish Thick- square ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Warp Dry Wet Dry Wet

Type 2.—Two-ply warp, single filling i

Oz. Pet, In. No, No, Lb. Lb, Lb. Lb. Lb, Lb. PcL 2. 94 0. 61 0.0056 126.2 59.8 'Strip..... 110,9 29.7 Grab 108.4, 32.4 62.8 4.8

3.16 . 62 .0086 127,2 62.6 fStrip.. 108. 2 29.1 [Grab.. 110.0 29.7 }- 54.5 1.3 61. 3. 276 .00819 129.1 62.5 Strip.. 107. 55 25.40 .Grab.. 116.8 29.2 63.25 62_ 3.34 1.0 .0056 134,0 62.0 .....do.—..-. 122% of 156% of dry. dry. 63-, 3.44 .54 . 0092 112.2 59.4 'Strip.. 95.4 23.0 Grab.. 104.8 27.8 54.3 1.2

64. 4.38 .5 . 0128 109.4 45.8 Strip.. 83,; 73.9 Grab.. 71.5 105.6 3.0

Type 3.—Two-ply warp, two-ply ñllingp

65. 2.94 1.02 0.0069 156.6 78.4 rstrip.. 86.1 32.8 LÖrab-. 92.7 33.4 64.6

3.08 .68 .0085 151.4 72.8 'Strip.. 32.7 .Grab.. 32. 3 68.6 0.4

67_ 3.12 .70 . 0086 148.8 72.8 'Strip.. 105.2 34.7 .Grab.. 112.5 36.9 66.7 +.9

3.16 .36 .0070 174.0 88. 8 'Strip.. 84.8 33.0 Grab.. 91.7 36.9 70.4 2.5

3. 38 .81 .0085 169.2 80.8 /Strip.. 99. 4 32.6 \Grab-. 109.0 35.9 62.5 .4

70. 3.44 ,64 .0086 167. 4 76.2 /Strip.. 95.2 38.6 I Grab-. 101.7 43.3 69.8 .6

71. 3. 50 .64 .0097 123.4 58.6 /Strip.. 85,4 32.0 I Grab.. 91.9 33.7 57.2 1.1

Pajama cloth, sometimes termed "broadcloth" *

72. 2.84 10.89 0.0064 81.8 57.6 /Strip...... 50.5 21.5 I Grab.. 52.0 24.3 }--- 42.3 6.5 73.. 2. 84 11.07 .0077 80.6 65.4 /Strip...... 44.6 20.2 JGrab 49.4 24.4 39.9 6.6 74., 2.86 12. 55 .0076 81.4 65.2 /Strip „ 48.8 20.8 I Grab . 55.0 23.6 46.0 5.3 75.. 2.90 10.44 .0065 81.0 58.6 /Strip .. 60.1 22.6 \Grab....._. 54. S 25.6 45.4 6.0 76.. 2. 90 14.37 . 0063 81.0 57.6 /Strip 46.2 22.2 iGrab...... 51.4 22.5 38.4 6.0 77.. 3.009 .00854 80.1 67. 7 /Strip... 41.75 18.60 IGrab 49.6 25.3 36.2 78.. 16.11 . 0061 81.6 58.4 /Strip...... 61.2 22.1 \Grab...... 55.2 25.4 48.0 5.8

ÍASTM Designatfon: D504—41 T. * A misnomer since the fabric does not have the typical ribbed appearance 3 Plus indicates stretch. of broadcloth. Î Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (tables SO, 31).

90 TABLE 53.— Properties of broadcloth: Cotton, plain wea?;6—C;!ontinL led

Yam Fiber length Number Ply Twist (turns per inch, direction) Reference TtPTTi nnmbRr Number

Warp Filling System Warp Fillhig Warp Filling Warp Filling

Type 2.—Two-ply warp, single fllling i—Continued

In. In. No. No. No. No. 59 Typp 25.6Z 21. 6Z 30.697 45.864 19,68 (ply) 45(1939). 23. 7Z 60 do 30. Oil 46.137 20.3S 20.6Z (ply) 10. ooz 17.626Z 61 39.6149 53.4773 28.967S 34. (1937), Two Single 62 _ 1.1 1.1 ' 30. 677 46. 864 25Z IB (1933). lOZ 24.8Z 63 25.094 36.933 18.5Z )Typp. 13. OS (ply) 24. IZ 43 (1939). 64 10.7Z 26. 529 13.424 12. 6S (piy)

Type 3.—Two-ply warp, two-ply filling i—Continued

28.8Z 31.3Z 65 - 45.766 44.111 20. OS 19. SS (ply) (ply) 28.2Z 32. 5Z 66 - 44.968 40.387 15. IS 32. OZ (ply) 23. 8S Eli 67 40.404 41.530 16.2Z 32.3S (ply) 35. 2Z 68.—- >Typp 50.029 40. 598 19.3S 35. IZ .43(1939). (ply) 69 _. _ 27. 2Z ^Pz 42.017 48.043 15. 5S 31. OZ (ply) 31.6Z 70 -. 39. 696 38. 635 15. 6S 32. 4Z (ply) (ply) 71 32. 4Z 33. 7Z 28.446 31.938 17.4S 25. 5S (ply) (ply)

Pajama cloth, sometimes termed "broadcloth" <—Continued

72 -_ „ ' 24.289 34.048 ' 22.2Z 29. 9Z 73 _ .- 27.804 32.983 17.3Z 21.8Z 74 _ __- tTypp 23.877 36.305 18.6Z 29. 5Z i4S (1939). 75 24. 524 32. 280 »Single. Single 20.4S 27.9Z 76 _._ ^ 26. 250 31.082 23.8Z 23. IZ 77 cotton— 30. 7006 39,3738 20.459Z 25. 605Z 34 (1937). 43 (1939). 78 Typp . . 23.010 35.330 _ 19. 5S 32.2Z

91 TABLE 54.—Properties of chambray: Cotton^ plain weave

Fabric

Yarns per Breaking strength Shrinkage in inch Bursting laundering Item number and class Weight Strength per Thick- square Finish ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method Warp Fillmg Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Dress chambray

Oz. Pd. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pd. Pd. 1 2.6 2.2 0.0097 86.0 68.4 2.9 2.8 (bone dry) 2 2.6 100.0 90.0 31.2 39.0 27.8 30.8 63,8 2.4 1.6 3 2.7 99.8 87.8 33.5 40,2 34.0 32.2 57.6 2.7 3.1 4 _. 2.8 103.0 90.0 37.4 41.2 31.4 38.8 73.4 95.2 2.8 2.2 5 2.8 92.4 56,6 41,0 56.0 15.6 23,8 73.6 108.4 4.0 1.7 6 2.9 3.8 85 78 34.7 43,8 34,2 38.4 +.5 3.6 7 2.9 1.3 74.2 73.0 28.4 40.4 22.6 32.4 58,4 Í2.2 3.2 40.2 8 3.0 1.9 81.2 70,8 'Strip. 52.4 30.0 37,2 82,2 109.4 3,7 4.5 9 3.0 .9 84.6 68,4 48.2 59.4 21,6 26.2 83.2 122.0 5.4 1.8 10 3.09 3,34 ,0072 78.3 64,2 43.49 26. 51 11 3.1 102.0 76.6 28.4 35.4 30.8 12 3.16 4.40 .0071 78. 2 64.1 42.04 30.18 13 3.19 4,85 .0071 78.3 64.4 45,33 30.78 14 3.22 4.30 .0076 78.4 64.3 44.74 29,98 15 3.24 5.2Q .0071 78.1 64,0 45.25 28.70

Work shirt chambray 2 Class A: 16._.. 5.64 10,9 0.0151 69 63 fStrip..- 72.2 49.3 +0,2 \Grab_-. 86.2 61.7 17...- 5,63 10.2 70.1 68.0 do-, 79.2 74.1 18._.. 5.72 4.0 .0172 65 ^ 49 /Strip-. 60.2 61.2 3,4 \Grab_- 72.3 73.9 Class B: 19..-_ 5.31 4.6 , 0150 72 60 /Strip- 69.0 61.6 2.2 \orab-. 82.0 76.5 Class C; 20 4.53 11.1 70,4 50.9 65.8 35,8 60 21.... 4,57 10.3 71.8 52.7 76,5 Grab.- 39,4 72 22.... 4,60 9.8 71,2 62.4 76.9 42.1 62 +1.2 23 4.60 10.4 71.7 53.7 71.6 43.1 24._.. 4,74 11,1 .0162 72 63 /Strip-- 64.0 37.4 1,1 \Grab-. 78.3 43.6 25.--. 4.92 8.0 .0116 68 57 /Strip— 48.2 64.9 8.9 5.8 iGrab..- 59.6 63.6 Class D 26 3.30 6.1 .0095 67 41 /Strip„.. 58.3 26.9 10.5 3,9 iGrab— 65.6 29,4 27..-. 4.03 7.8 68.9 46,8 do.. 75.1 32.9 72 9.0 28-..- 4.06 7.4 .0112 68 48 /Strip... 64,5 32,1 '""4.1 \Grab-. 74.8 36.3 29.-.. 4.10 10.6 69.5 45.5 do.. 83,0 35.3 57 12.4 30 4.19 8.6 .0116 70 47 /Strip-- 66.2 32.2 10.6 4.2 \Grab.- 78.0 35.9 31-.-. 4.30 4.4 .0149 70 52 /Strip-.- 61,3 31.5 1.7 \Qrab_- 73.1 34,9 32 4.40 10,5 72.2 53,4 do- 69.5 39.0

1 Plus indicates stretch. 2 Classified in accordance with Federal Specification CCG-C-231a, Dec. 21,1942.

92 TABLE 54.—Properties oj chambray ; Cotton, plain weave—Continued

Yarn Fiber lengtli Twist (turns per inch, Number direction) Item numtier and class Reference number

Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Dress chamtir ay—Continued

. In. In. No, No, 1 _ _. Typp (bone 37.8 38.7 28.5Z 19.7Z 67 (1944), dry). 2 1.3 1.2 44.0 41.8 30.4Z 24.9Z 3 __ 1.1 1.1 46.3 40.9 31. OZ 24.8Z 409 (1951). 4 _ __ ... 1.3 1.2 44.9 42.0 31.7Z 26.4Z 5 1.1 1.1 29.1 37.7 26.9Z 26.7Z 6 Cotton 42.55 43.0 26.9Z 24. 6Z 79 (1947), 8S (1948). 7 _ 1.2 1.2 36.2 35.4 11.2S 25.9S 1.1 25.9Z 8 . » _ 1.3 1.3 37.2 34.6 9.9S 21.4S \iÖ9 (1951). 9 1.2 1.2 32.8 26. OZ 26. OZ 26.8Z 31. IZ 10 Cotton - 28.5 39.0 18.5Z 22.8Z m{nzh). 11 1.2 1.2 41.2 27.6Z 19.7Z 109 (1951). 12 _ ___-. f 25.6 39.9 15.8Z 21.4Z 1 13 26.9 36.8 13. IZ 22,3Z [;gi?(1935). 14 _. >uoiton 1 27.6 34.9 16. OZ 2L0Z 15 __ i 27.9 38.4 16. IZ 22. IZ J

Work shirt chambray 3—Continued Glass A: 16 75 (1946). 17 18 WS (1942). Class B: 19 Glass Gr 20 21 m (1945). 22 23 24 25 58 (1942). Class D: 26 27 75 (1945). 28 58 (1942). 29 75(1945). 30 U(1942). 31 32 75 (1945). TABh¥. 55.—Properties of corduroy: Cotton^ lightweight and mediumweight

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation

Type and item Weight Tufts per Ribs per Finish Width per Thick- square square ness Warp Filling yard inch inch Filling Warp FUling plus Method Warp Filling pile

Dry Wet Dry Wet

Oz, Pd. ; In, No. No. In. No. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pd. Pd. LIOHTWEIOHT

W-pile, single warp: 1 Pinwale_ 4.89 0.07 37.28 17.0 0.0179 66 181 Strip-__ 42.2 18.8 .... 21.0 26,0 /-do.— 2. _..-..._„... 6.33 2.2 17.0 1,056 .0336 66 :^ 64, 191 47. 6 38.8 iGrab..- 51,8 46.9 /Strip_._. 3_.-...-._..-.. 6.52 2.9 16.0 978 ,0335 66 60 179 55.8 33.9 tGrab..- 59.9 40.4 / 4 Pin wale . 6.7 16 .023 47 133 5 -..do„„... 6.8 16 . 022 48 127 6 ....do 6.9 16 .023 49 133 7*i._.do...... 6.97 1.1 .025 46 : 123 / 57.1 24.3 8 do...... 6.98 37.14 15,8 . 0228 48 133 42.5 26.7 34.0 32.0 9 ..-do....— 7.53 36.10 m.9 .€274 47 136 42.2 39.2 26.6 34 iStrip-.„ { 43.1 37,0 6,7 14,4 11 Pinwale . 7.89 36.5 16. 0 . 0268 47 "~"Í29" 67.4 39.4 31,8 42.4 1.2 do._—._ 7.93 36. 49 15.7 .0265 47 132 48, 2 33.9 28.2 35,0 13 .-.do..—.. 8,12 36.30 16.0 . 0280 46 134 \ 62.2 39.9 27.8 39.6 Paired (double) warp: 14*Pinwale—. 6-54 1.1 36. 5 .022 82 138 —do—.^ 68.7 33,6 15 ....do..— 6.6 14.0 .023 82 130 16 do. 6.73 35. 78 14.5 . 0219 85 187 Strip- 68.3 44,6 28.4 43.0 17 —.do...... 6.8 14 .022 84 130 18 ..-.do 6.9 14 .023 82 136 19*....do...... 7.66 .6 36.5 .031 85 140 Strip.... 55.8 33.9 20 ..-.do 7.68 37.63 13.7 .0293 78 139 —do 45.9 40.6 33.4 37.4 21 ....do.-..-. 7.74 36.60 14,0 . 0263 82 139 —do—. 43.9 37.1 27.0 36.6 MEDIUMWEIGHT , Type 1:2 V-pile, single warp: /do 60.3 22 ..- 9. 96 19.4 8 624 .0498 49 38 115 50.2 1 \ Grab.... 70.5 62.0 /Strip.... 23. 11.32 16.5 8 408 .0596 48 31 93 57.9 50.8 lOrab..-. 68.2 62.8 Type 2:2 W-pile, paired (double) warp alter- nated with single warp: /Strip.-. 24..—„..-. 11.98 9.2 12 649 .0560 60 46 86.6 49.0 137 IGrab.— 97.6 69,1 1 /Strip.-.. 70.2 25—..-...- 12.07 13.2 12 563 .0484 61 46 139 52.3 [Grab 76: 9 71,6 / /Strip.— 26-..——. 12. 27 6.3 12 565 .0581 60 47 141 83.0 56,3 IGrab.... 93.2 77.6 27—...—. 12. 43 17.2 12 604 .0486 57 35 141 /Strip.... 77.9 46.4 [.Grab— 87.2 64.0 J W-pile, paired double warp: /Strip...- 28... 11.39 13.5 11 ^ 604 . 0544 69 35. 141 72.9 39.3 ] Grata-.. 83. 6 61. 6 / /Strip.... 29.__..-.—- 12.20 11.5 11 618 .0544 66 37 148 63.3 45.3 \Grab--. 72.2 64.2 J\ f Strip-. _ 30...... 12.24 12.4 11 648 .0499 68 38 152 75. 2 43.9 \Grab..- 84.2 60.8 fStrip-., 78.3 31- ..... 14. 60 13.5 11 536 .0538 68 48 143 67,6 [Grab—. 88.8 96.8 |-.-.-

1 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (p. 28). 2 ASTM Designation: D 626-41 T.

94 TABLE 55,—Properties of corduroy: Cotton, lightweight and mediumweight—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yam Fiber length Twist (turns per Shrinkage in Number inch, direction) Reference Type and item Cleaning number Laundering Ply Dry Wet Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Pa. Pd. Pet Pet. PcL PcL In. In. m. No. LIGHTWEIGHT W-pîle, single warp: 1 Plnwale 2.5 3.8 1.36 1.31 Cotton 29 41 Single... 26 27 8S (1948). 2 . ' 27.02 34.02 '49 (1941). 3 21.48 33.88 íTypp 4 Pinwale 5.2 2.2 1.6 1.5 14.2 16.2 17.9 16.5 ) 5 do 4.9 .6 1.6 1.6 14.1 16.8 17.8 16.3 V97 (1960). 6 do 4.6 1.8 2.3 1.5 14.0 16.0 17.6 16.5 7* i do 2.5 1.0 18,1Z 15.3Z 98 (1950), 8 do 3.2 3.7 1.06 1.09 Cotton_„. 16 19 18 19 9 do 2.3 2.9 .95 1.00 ...do. 17 17 19 17 JM (1948). 10 3.5 2.5 Í 95 (1950). 11 Pinwale 2.3 2.5 1.12 1.24 15 19 16 21 12 _ do 2.5 1.5 1.16 1.02 15 19 ■Single, __ 16 m (1948). 13 do 2.9 2.5 1.12 1.16 Cotton 15 18 I 16 18 Paired (double) warp: 14*Pinwale 3.6 3.1 18.4Z 11. 8Z 98 (1950). 15 do 4.6 1.4 2.1 1.6 Typp 21.8 17.6 19.4 13.6 97 (1950). 16 do .3 .5 1.03 1.25 Cotton 27 34 Single- 24. 19 85 (1948). 17 do 5.1 1.2 2.3 1.0 Typp..__. 22.3 17.1 21.5 11.1 }P7 (1950). 18 do 5.3 .9 2.1 .7 _.„do 22.1 18.0 19.3 13.1 19*- do 2.8 1.4 23.8Z 21.4Z 98 (1950). 20 do 2.5 4.0 1.10 .98 28 20 Single-, 24 16 }S5 (1948). 21 do 3.0 2.0 1.36 1.19 30 19 .-do 27 19 MEDIUM WEIOrHT Type 1:3 V-piie, single warp: 22 Typp 14.88 10.22 23 ___do 13.25 8.14 Type 2:2 W-pile, paired (double) warp alter- nated with single warp: 24 . t 12.38 12.02 25 13.20 10.80 ^Typp 26 ^ 12.34 11.62 49 (1941). 27 12.56 11.02 W-pile, paired double warp: 28 f 14.34 11.52 29 16.71 11.95 30 Typp 14.92 12.30 SI 12.98 9.41

95 TABLE 56.—Properties of covert

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Fiber and item number Weight per Thielc- Finish Weave square ness Warp Filling yard Warp FÜIing Method - Warp Fining Dry Wet Dry Wet

Cotton: Oz. Pd. In. No, No. Lb, Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. Pd. Plain /Strip 52.6 22.1 3.44 10.1 0.0121 68 40 \Grab 59.3 26.2 2 4.47 9.9 - 70.9 49.5 do 67.9 30.8 3 _ 4.60 10.4 - 70.1 49.3 do 65.7 32.4 4.68 Plain .0166 J Strip 63.0 34.1 11.0 71 50 \Grab 80.5 44.1 5 4.73 9.9 - 68.0 53.2 do 73.9 32.9 / .0156 f Strip 61.2 34.6 6 _ _- -- 4.79 6.3 ' 71 52 tOrab 73.1 39.3 /Strip 58.4 61.2 5.68 6.0 .0161 71 60 Plain - _ I Grab 75.6 69.5 fStrlp 56.9 56.5 8 5.88 10.9 1 .0165 57 71 IGrab 73.6 68.4 9 5.94 /Strip .... 58.1 66.1 4.1 ] I .0175 55 49 iGrab 71.6 72.4 10 -_ 6.07 13.9 - 71.7 55.7 do 97.5 53.9 /Strip 80.3 49.6 11 6.25 10.1 Twill .0219 72 56 IQrab 100.2 60.6 Wool: 12 4.7 Plain. 64.0 45.0 Strip 38.6 21.4 13 __ 12.1 2/2 twllL-_ .0433 60 0 58.0 do 56.9 27.9 32.6 28.8

14 . _ . -. 12.26 3/2 twllL_-, .0395 62,0 65.0 do 65.4 29.3 45.0 27.9 Wool and regenerated cellulose: 16 6.48 1.5 Satin .0167 120 58 Grab 72 40% of dry- 45 56% of dry. 40 33

Fabric—C ontinued Yarn

Fiber length Shrinkage in Twist (turns laundering Number per inch, direction) Fiber and Item number Burst- Reference ing number strength Ply (dry) Warp Filling Warp Fillmg System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Cotton: Lb. . Pet. Pet In. In. No. No. No. 1 ... 13,7 3.1 58(1942). 2 . 48 3 .- - 47 '75(1945). 4 _ 1.4 1.6 S8 (1942). 5 _._ - --- 7S (1945). 6 .7 .5 7-. —. 1.3 2.3 >58 (1942). 8 0 .2 9_ .- 1.2 2.4

10 63 75(1945). 11-. .4 1.1 58 (1942). Wool: 12 .,. (0 (2) 2.3 16.6 12.3 20. 5S 11. OS 109 (1951). 13 .- - 7 (1930), 8 (1931). 14. - - 7 (1930), S (1931). Wool and regenerated cellulose: 15 - L5 1.8 Tvnn 19.874 1.3. .524 2 1.5Z 35S 19, rifiSRV C ontinuoi IS 13Z 8Z 3Z

1 Shrinkage in dry cleaning, 1.4 percent; in wet cleaning, 7.4 percent. 2 Shrinkage in dry cleaning, 0.6 percent; In wet cleaning, 12.0 percent.

96 TABLE 57 —-Properties oj dimity: Cotton, plain weave with rib or crammed warp stripe

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Item number Weight per Finish square Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method Dry Wet Dry Wet

PcL No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. /Strip. 4.4 64.7 65.3 38.0 16.0 1.57 \Grab. 38.7 15.7 2 1.6 2.4 03.0 63.0 Strip, 38.0 32.6 17.2 15 0 1.63 71.7 64.0 f-.-dc 28.0 9.6 3.7 \Grab. 27.6 10.3 }- 76.9 68.6 fStrip_ 30.0 15.2 1.67 iGrab. 30.6 16.9 }- 5 1.7 4.6 91.0 65.0 f 34.8 34.6 17,0 16 0 e:::.. .:.:.:: 1.7 3.9 94.0 65.5 33.2 35.4 15.4 16.0 7 1.7 3.6 98.0 67.0 •Strip. \ 24.2 22.5 13.8 13.6 8 -.-. 1.7 6.3 100.0 65.0 33.4 31.6 12.4 12.0 9. 1.73 98.1 63.0 L 32.4 16.0 Grab. 34.6 18.8 /Strip. 33.5 16.4 10 1.75 4.3 86.0 66.3 \Grab. 35.4 19.2 11 1.8 3.3 102.0 64.0 Strip. 36.8 so'e" 14.0 12 0 1. 83 94.5 64.7 f..._dc 33.9 17.4 IGrab. 37.4 20.6 }- 13 1 1.90 3.7 124.0 74.0 di > 29 166% of dry 11 118% of dry 14 1.9 80.0 69.0 / 32.8 42.8 15.8 17 6 15.___ 1.9 3.4 79.0 54.0 21.0 29.6 13.2 15.8 16... _ 1.9 2.7 111.7 62.5 44.2 46.4 10.2 14.2 17 1.9 2.0 107.7 78.2 38.8 41.2 14.4 14 9 18 1.9 .2 105.5 77.0 Strip. 38.0 44.0 17.0 18.0 2.0 2.2 106.5 75.0 37.2 45.6 20.8 20 . . 2.0 2.0 107.0 77.0 26.6 39.6 12.8 15 9 21. _ 2.0 1.7 96.0 62.0 43.9 44.6 12.4 13.2 22 __ . .. 2.0 1.6 122.6 73.6 41.0 46.8 13,0 13 S 23.... 2.1 1.9 118.0 76.5 \ 24.8 24.2 12.7 14 2

Fabric—Continued Yam Fiber Shrinkage in length Bursting strength Number Twist (turns per laundering inch, direction) Item number Reference number

Dry Wet Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp FiUing

Pet. Pet Pet PcL In. In. No. No. 1 62 (1943). 2 . 4.7 9.7 1.3 1.4 49.9 66.2 29. OZ 34. IZ Î09 (1951) 3 '- 1.8 7.7 ■6B (1943). 4 1.8 7.7 5 54.4 65.2 3.8 10.8 1.4 1.3 51.0 64.1 31.7Z 34.4Z 6 4.9 10.3 1.4 51.2 65.1 1.5 37.3Z 31.3Z ■109 (1951). 7 49.0 51.5 4.4 6.3 1.1 1.0 51.2 71.0 24.3Z 32.4Z 8 4.4 9.9 1.3 1.2 53.8 75.6 13. OZ 15.7Z 9 1.6 11.4 ■6ê (1943). 10 _ 2.9 6.1 11 3.8 11.0 1.4 1.2 54.6 54.6 26. 9S 33. 4S 109 (1951). 12 2.5 5.8 6ê (1943). 131 1.1 3.8 1.0 1.0 49. 619 89. 712 35Z 29Z J^(1933). 14 67.9 84.9 3.4 7.5 1.3 1.3 43.7 67.9 26.6Z 32.7Z 15 58.1 70.2 6.5 2.7 1.3 1.3 43.2 40.3 41. OS 38. 7S 16 .- .- 71.2 83.5 1.6 3,0 1.2 1.2 65.4 67.0 30.4Z 34.9Z 17... 58.4 70.8 2.5 10.9 1.1 1.1 53.4 74.2 30.6Z 37. 8Z 12.4 18... 61.6 78.9 2.6 1.3 1.3 49.8 62.6 30.3Z 39.9Z 109 (1951). 19 2.4 11.1 1.3 1.3 53.8 66.0 31.4Z 33. 8Z 20 . . 65.8 76.1 2.2 13.0 1.1 1.2 52.6 56.3 31. IS 26. tS 21 70.9 81.1 2.5 9.6 1.2 1.3 53.5 67.6 30, OZ 38.4Z 22 61.4 85.2 3.3 7.1 1,5 1.5 54.6 77.0 30,4Z 36. 5Z 23 2.1 4.9 1.3 LI 56.2 65.4 31. OZ 38. OZ

I Fabric 35 inches wide, 0.0053 inch thick; elongation of warp (dry) and filling (dry), both 5 percent; yarn, number system Typp, single ply.

365i642—56 97 TABIJE 58,—Properties of dotted swiss: Cottonj plain weave

Fabric

Yams per inch Breaking strength Elongation Item number Type of dot Weight per Finish Width Thick- Warp Filling square ness Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method (dry (dry) Dry Wet Dry Wet

Oz. Pet. In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pd. Pet. 1 Swivel 1.2 4.3 72.0 63.0 Strip _ 13.1 12.5 11.4 10.8 2 .....do.-...-...... -. 1.23 2.2 29.5 0.0064 68.0 43.0 Grab...... 16 88% of dry 7 100% of dry 5 5 3 Tissue 1.48 1.4 34.8 .0053 75.0 52.0 ...do...... 18 111% of dry 8 100% of dry 0 11 1.53 79.5 /Strip 26.8 12.9 4 1.8 67.0 iGrab...... 25.9 12. 8 J 5 Filling clipped 1.6 4.6 73.0 54.0 Strip...... 24.4 "" 24.T 19.4 16.4 6 Lappet ... . 1.61 3.2 .0053 75.0 72.0 Grab...... 19 84% of dry 3 100% of dry 0 0 7 Filling clipped..-..- 1.7 4.9 79.5 64.0 f 24.4 24.2 13.6 12.8 8 1.7 4.9 79.0 58.0 J 27.6 26.4 13.2 26.6 Ö I""doIIi:iI"""I' 1.8 4.1 89.0 60.0 ■Strip 1 24.2 26.8 16.2 18.8 10 .....do...... 1.8 2.7 80.0 57.5 I 24.6 26.0 18.4 16.8 /Strip...... 33.3 19.3 Woven 1.83 2.6 73.3 58.0 \Grab...... 33.2 24.0 }... 12 Filling clipped . 1.6 6.7 77.0 58.0 Strip...... 23.4 27.6 16.2 16.6 13 Composition. , 1.91 1.7 37.4 .0069 64.0 47.0 f 13 123% of dry 7 157% of dry 8 22 14 1.95 63.0 51.0 Grab. 19.8 13.2 15 V.lV.uoV"""""." 2.00 61.2 48.7 ■ 15.2 11.4 16 .....do...... „-. 3.53 61.2 50.4 I 21,4 15.5

Í Yam used in swivel dot.

98 TABLE 58.—Properties of dotted swiss: Cotton^ plain weave—Continued

Fabric—Continued Fiber length Yarn

Item Bursting Shrinkage in Number Twist (turns per Reference number Type of dot strength laundering inch, direction) number Warp Filling Ply

Dry Wet Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Lb. Lb. PcL Pet. In. In. No, No. 1 Swivel— 5.3 6.4 1.5 1.2 74.8 72.9 27.4 26,2 109 (1951). 2 do .5 .8 .7 .7 Typp 62.664 53.634 Single 17Z 25Z 16.300 Three i.... \n (1933). 3 Tissue.__i .7 2.6 1.1 ,8 .._do 62. 450 68.242 Single 27Z 24Z 4 1.7 6.3 e^ (1943). 5 Filling clipped 2.9 11.6 1.3 1.2 53.0 48.1 31. OZ 27. OZ Í09 (1951). 6 Lappet - 1.6 2.0 1.0 .9 Typp 55.398 71.476 Single 21Z 20Z n (1933). 16.300 Twoi 7 Filling clipped 3.5 12.1 1.3 1.3 63.8 72.0 30. 5Z 30. OZ 8 do.- 7.2 2.0 1.2 1.2 50.5 67.2 32. IZ 42. OZ Í09 (1951). 9 do - "läo" ~"z¥.Y 4.7 11.3 1.3 1.3 50.1 49.5 32.9Z 29.5Z 10 do 3.1 13.7 1.3 1.2 48.7 54.6 32. 7Z 31. IZ 11 Woven _ ^S (1943). 12 Filling clipped— 23.4 16.2 3.6 12.3 1.1 1.1 47.0 46.2 24. IZ 34.8Z 109 (1951). 13 Composition .6 .9 1.2 .9 Typp 46.754 47.040 Single 32Z 28Z n (1933). 14 do _. 15 do 3,5 6.7 UJ? (1943). 16 do 2.6 6.1

■

99 TABLE 59.—Properties of flannel: Wool, 212 twill

Fabric

Bursting Yarns per Breaking strength Inch strength

Item number Weight per Thick- square Width ness yard Warp Füling Method

Oz. In, In. No. No. rStrip- 3.70 54.02 0.0178 70.0 50.4 \Grab. /Strip. 3.74 64.25 .0143 91.9 70.2 I Grab. Strip. 3.77 35.95 .0172 61.3 42.6 Grab. /Strip. 4,08 53.07 .0220 48.9 35.3 I Grab. "Strip. 4.20 54.90 .0175 69.2 49,6 Grab. Strip. 4.24 26.97 .0180 71.6 49.9 Grab. Strip. 4.26 55.15 .0141 91.3 69.6 Grab. /Strip. 4.28 49.60 .0176 71.2 50.5 IQrab. /Strip. 4.38 54.25 .0189 70.1 49.4 \Grab. 'Strip. 4.40 37.50 .0207 39.1 33.8 Grab 11-. 4.4 37 30 12.. 4.4 61.2 50.4 ! Strip, IS- 4.5 65.2 63,0 --do. 4.55 36.07 .0160 51.4 41.8 Grab. /Striî IS.. 65.10 .0148 61.9 iGral 16.. 4.6 39 23 17.. 4.8 61.8 42.8 18-. 4.86 53.35 .0192 62.4 46.3 19-. 4.9 49.0 64,0 20- 4.9 47.0 31.8 21-. 4.9 45.8 30.0 22- 6.0 60,0 46.6 23-. 5.4 58.0 43.0 24_. 5.6 64.0 46.0 25.. 5.72 50.50 .0253 47.8 33,4 26-. 5.8 47.5 39,5 27.. 6.0 28 28 6.0 63 46 29 3__ 6.06 62.0 .0174 68.0 43.0 30-.- 6.2 32 24 31* *. 6.71 .'03225' 43.9 39.9 32*. 7.36 36.4 .03440 43.4 40,2 7.71 36.0 .03495 45.3 34*-. 7.92 36.6 ,03545 45.5 40.0

1 Laundered 5 times. * Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (tables 35, \ 3 Plus indicates stretch, * New fiber . 31/2 right twill. * Reprocessed fiber.

100 TABLE 59.—Properties oj flannel: Wool, 2¡2 twill—Continued

Fabric— Continue d Fiber length Yarn

Twist (turns Siirink Ige in— Number per incb, direction) Item Reference number number Cleaning Laundering Warp Filling Ply

Dry Wet System Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Pet. Pet. Pet, Pet, PcL Pet. In. In. No. No. 1 4.22 3.22 10.0 10.0 '11.3S 11.8Z 2 4.22 2.11 15.0 16.0 11.7Z 13.4Z

3 4.89 7.44 10.0 5.0 13.9S 13, OS

4 5.55 15.33 9.0 5.0 9,9S 10. OZ

5 4.22 3.78 9.9 9.5 12.5S 11. IZ ■Euns/Ib... ' Single '25 (1935); 6.._ 5.55 4.22 ' 9.6 9.0 ' 10,4S 10.2Z

7.... _ 5.55 4.22 14.0 15.0 14.3Z 12.4Z

8- _. 3.78 1.00 10.0 10.0 11. OS 12.6Z 9 5.11 6.78 9.5 10.0 11. IS 12.7Z

10 _ 13.00 13.67 6,0 5.0 11,4S 9. IS 11 55.38 1 49.03 Grex 537.5 584.0 9.9Z 12.5Z H (1950). 12—- 0.8 1.3 1.4 1.6 3.0 3.0 15.6 13.8 15. OS 18.5Z ]lÖ9 (1951) 13 1.4 1.6 5.9 6.3 1.5 1.5 16.6 18.1 17.4Z 18.7Z 14 4.66 4.66 Runs/lb-_- 10.0 10.0 Single 14. IS 11.3S 25 (1935). 15 5.77 3.55 .._do 12.0 17.0 ...do 14,7S 10.8Z 16 27.5 21.5 9.5 9.0 12.0 12.5 Cotton 54.84 13.55 —do-. 8.9S 9.6S 82 (1948). 17 2.8 2.2 7.7 3.9 2.9 2.4 15,9 10.8 17.8S 15.3Z Í09 (1951), 18 8.11 2.77 Runs/lb— 12.0 5.0 Single 12.3S 11.6S 15(1935), 19 0 0 4.2 0 2.7 2.7 10.2 15.0 13.8Z 19. IS 20 11.6 6.9 12.6 6.1 2.6 1.9 17.4 5.1 17.9S 11.9S 21 _ 5.9 6.3 11.4 7.4 2.7 1,7 16.4 5.1 17.6S 11,7S 22 4.1 5.9 5.3 6.7 3.1 2.8 53.7 39.0 18.7S 14,3Z \îQ9 (1951) 1.1 23 7.3 4.9 8.4 5.0 2.4 1.4 20.2 8.0 18.8Z 14.4Z 24 0 2+2.6 7.5 .5 2.2 1.5 19.5 7,5 18.3Z 16.5S 25 _- -. 11.33 6,55 Runs/lb-_ 4.0 4.5 Single-— 12.2S 8.8S 25 (1935). 26 0 +.5 5.4 3.5 2.2 1.2 16.0 5.8 21.6S 15. OS iÖ9 (1951). 27 16.5 17.5 4.5 6.5 7.0 8.0 Cotton 21.30 17.36 Single 12.6S 12.9S SJ8(1948). 28 .._do 88 (1949). 29 3 2.9 2.1 Typp 17.657 6,802 Woolen.... Í2Z US )^(1933). 30. 13.5 3.5 3.5 +2.5 8.5 +2.5 Cotton.... 18.82 18.67 14.4S 16. IS 82 (1948). 31** 5.0 1.2 5 2.49 2.49 ' 7,94 7.56 12.57Z 12.86Z 6 1.78 1.78 32* 6.2 1.2 5 2.49 2.49 6.78 6.88 12.48Z 12.36Z 47(1941), 65 «1.78 1.78 iTypp (1943), 74 33* 6.2 1.2 _ _ «2.49 2.49 6.90 6.76 12.82Z 13.02Z (1944). n.78 1.78 34* 6.2 1.2 «2.49 2.49 ,6.35 6.25 13.20Z 12.69Z

101 TABLE 60.—Properties of flannel: Cotton

Fabric

Reference Type and item Weight Yams per inch Shrinkage in Air perme- number per Thick- Laundering ability at number square Weave ness a pressure yard Warp Filling Method Warp Filling Warp Füling oí 1 lb.

Cu. ft.! mini Canton: Oz. In. No. No, Lb, Lb. Pet. Pel. sq.ft. 1..-.--. 5.18 1/3 Twill. 0.0171 92.0 41.0 Grab 12 5 4.C a+0.5 îê (1933). Flannelette; 3.4 Plain 28.3 12.8 Strip-—. 18.4 2.9 +.5 Î09 {!%!). Outing; 3..—.- 2.98 0263 42 41 /Strip.-—. 23.0 8.0 lQrab—.-, 24.0 15.2 } +■.7 3.8 /Strip..... 25.9 16.4 4—.... 3.30 0265 46 42 +.4 \orab..... 27.8 18.7 } - 32.2 16.5 5—..- 3.41 0218 45 40 /Strip-.—, 141 \arab-.- 33.6 20.2 .8 25.1 15.6 6.—.- 3.47; 0299 39 Strip..... 45 Grab.-... 25.4 22.9 .4 84 7—-— 3.47 42 Strip , 30.0 21.6 0237 45 Grab 83.3 26.3 5.0 147 29.6 20.4 8-—— 3.58 0258 43 Strip 103 45 Grab 31.8 22.8 4.3 27,3 17.6 9—--.- 3.58 0289 47 42 Strip-.— .4 78 Grab—.- 28.2 2L6 29.1 22.4 10-_.-- 3.62 0250 46 42 Strip..-.. 122 Grab..-.. 32.0 29.6 1.8 31.2 16.4 ll-.— 3.62 0273 46 42 Strip.— 2.2 98 Plain.. Grab 33.7 20.1 48(1941). 12 3.65 42 Strip..... 29.8 21.6 0245 46 Grab 30.6 22.7 2.1 77 26.3 16.0 13--_..., 3.65 0248 48 42 Strip Grab..— 25.2 18.4 4.6 64 23.4 14.2 14.,..__ 3.83 0367 43 43 Strip...- 63 Grab--- 23.2 17.3 15. , 3.87 0339 46 42 Strip,.... 27.8 15.8 Grab...-. 28.1 21.3 +.7 28.0 21.3 16...... 3.97 0308 46 42 Strip 2.1 .Grab—. 31,4 29.0 29.8 21.6 17-, .-. 3.98 0268 46 37 /Strip.. ... IGrab..... 31.8 23.2 3.2 29.7 14.1 18-.- — 4.17 0367 48 40 'Strip..-.. .Grab 30.5 21.0 +2.1 31.4 28.8 19_..... 4.23 0274 54 43 Strip.-— 1.3 Grab- 41.4 38.6 } «■ 20 - 4.27 032 65 44 Strip..-.. 38.4 15.4 1.8 Grab.-... 43.2 26.0 } -

i02 TABLE 60.—Properties o j flannel: Cotton ^—Continued

Fabric

Shrinkage in Type and item Weight Yarns per inch Breaking strength Air perme- Eeferenee number per Thick- Laundering ability at number square Weave ness a pressure yard Warp FUling Method Warp Filling Warp FUling of 1 lb.

Cu.ffJminI Outing—Con, Oz, In. No. No. Lb, Lb. Pet Pet, sg.fL 14.6 21 4.33 0.0337 54 44 /Strip. — 36.5 2.6 65 1 Grab 41.0 26.2 45(1941). /Strip- _. 28.2 15.6 44 22 4.43 .0420 48 51 ■ C\ra\\ 30.1 23.8 !::: -t-L7 J Plain 47.0 48.0 Strip'"/.! 58.0 46.3 7.3 4-2.2 109 (1951). 23 - 4.7 ; do 31.1 21.2 24 4.98 .0485 48 41 32.1 29.4 5.2 LO 51 /Strip'""!" 34.6 24.0 \ 6.7 25 - 5.07 .0353 54 47 1 n-raVi 2.9 28 41.8 39.8 Us (1941), 26 4.08 Twill /Strip 30.7 25.3 .0248 45 44 \arab_ 32.2 24.1 10.7 +.4 108 27 --- 4.30 do 53 45 /Strip 32.9 22.6 2.2 78 .0273 iOrab 35.6 25.0 ; 7-7 28 - - 4.68 1/2 twill .0194 52.0 48.0 do 35 30 2.3 +1.9 Í2 (1933). /Strip —_ 33.2 27.8 64 29 5.00 .0275 51 43 ClvaYi 38.8 32.8 ILl 3.5 /Strip 44.7 16.6 30 5.18 .0378 72 47 Grab . . 47.2 24.0 5.9 +3.5 27 /Strip 57.4 30.0 31 5.28 .0287 66 44 Grab 64.8 39.3 9.8 3.6 80 Strip 43.3 17.2 48 (1941), 32 5.32 Twill .0391 72 48 n-roK 43.0 22.6 ■ 5.0 +3.6 31 /strip 44.6 13.8 40 5.48 .0457 71 47 \Grab 45.6 21.6 ' 7.2 +4.6 /Strip - . 46.7 20.8 5.57 .0423 72 48 IGrab 50.4 25.2 6.5 +4.3 28 fStrip . _ 48.7 18.6 5.58 .0406 72 48 \Grab 53.6 25.6 } 6.8 +3.5 29

1 For deflnitations, see p, 30. 2 Plus indicates stretch.

103 TABLE 61 ~'Properties oj gabardine

Fabric

Yams per Bursting Breaking strength Elongation Shrinkage in Type^and inch strength laundering Weight Thick- number per Finish Width square Type of twill ness Warp Flllhig Meth- yard Warp Fillhig Filling Warp Filling od Warp Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Cotton, 100%: Single warp yams: Oz, Pet In. In. No. No. X&. Lh. Lh. Lb. Pet PcL Lb. Lb. PcL cf. 1 /Strip. 95.6 73.9 7,00 1.8 0.022 90.5 42.0 \Grab- 112.1 81.5 2.1 0.6 /Strip- 60.1 2.- 7.04 1.0 .026 123.2 73.0 121.2 1,6 .8 IGrab. 134.0 70,6 i 3 7.30 ^Left 1.2 /Strip. 87.6 65.5 ] .022 87.8 40.6 iGrab- 103.7 81.6 1.6 2.1 4 7.66 8.4 .032 74.0 rStrip. 109.5 73.0 114 114. 2 iGrab- 124.8 89.4 i 12.3 /Strip. 139.1 5 8.69 . .9 136.0 76.8 115.7 .030 iGrab- 167.2 146.9 1J 2.7 2.8 Two-ply warp yarns: 6 8.40 ' .5 .028 123.8 74.0 / Strip. 118.5 99.6 2.3 4.7 iGrab. 150,5 124.8 63.2 7 8.42 .9 134.0 71.0 /Strip. 156,8 6.0 2.3 .028 I Grab. 193.2 72.0 8 Right. .9 139.0 /Strip. 171.7 44.9 8.60 • 028 72.8 \Qrab. 187.2 49.4 .8 2+.1 /Strip. 136.1 102.9 9. 8.66 .5 .023 115.8 57.0 IGrab- 164.9 126.6 /Strip. 183.0 69.3 9,50 . 2.1 135.0 1.9 10 .031 73.8 I Grab. 228.9 81.6 .7 Wool, 100%: 11 3.82 4/1 .0124 107.3 /Strip. 30.9 13.0 /12.87 9.93 55.68 64.2 I Grab. 41.1 14.4 \16. 83 11.67 }75.2 3,67 6.22 /Strip. 30.5 12 4.47 4/1 55.86 .0155 84.9 56.8 26.1 16.27 9.13 4.44 3.22 ; Grab, 42.8 28.6 20.00 9.17 } 95.8 13 4.6 ' 2.0 57 ,0197 88.2 47.6 ' 38.1 "'25"3' 17.0 34.3 21,3 (bone dry) 14.. 4.6 2.0 56,5 .0186 90.8 49.2 37,9 25.1 15.2 10,9 31.0 19.3 (bone dry) t2/l right iStrip.. 15 4.6 1.0 57 .0191 89.4 51.2 35.9 21.1 18.1 9.8 35.7 20.3 (bone dry) 16. 4.6 . 1.8 67 .0202 88.0 50.0 , 35.4 25.6 17.4 10.7 41.0 25.3 (bone dry) /Strip- 33.0 21.0 17.07 17 4,70 4/1 55.31 91.5 15.87 4.40 .0162 60.6 IGrab. 48.1 25.1 20.83 14.17 }97.3 2 56 2 1 /Strip. 39.7 14.4 25.40 9.13 18 _ 4.76 56.42 .0170 116,8 61.9 }87,4 5.11 1.44 1 1 "" \Grab. 64.5 18.1 29.17 10.83 19„ 4.8 2/1 right 1.2 56.6 .0202 90.2 50.8 (bone dry) 20 4.9 2/2 --_. 105.0 62.6 Strip. 96.8 56.6 34.8 20.6 112.4 64.4 2.6 .1 21 5.20 2/1 _ 64.11 /Strip- 50.3 16.8 21.93 9.13 ,0168 90.5 55.4 iGrab- 19.9 10.83 } 90.6 6.22 4.22 22 2/1 55.28 90.2 /Strip- 49,6 16.2 22.87 10.33 5.28 .0166 66.7 \Grab. 20.5 10.83 1 90.3 4.22 4.22 2 1 /Strip- 48.1 20.4 34.13 15.00 23. --_ 5,50 55.48 .0162 151.4 77.6 }l02.4 3.67 1 22 1 1 \Grab. 28.4 21.67 2/1 /Strip. 63.2 19.2 27.47 12.93 24 -.. 5.51 54.86 .0171 90.9 55.6 \Grab. 25.9 17.50 ]l00.1 3.89 4 67 25 5.9 ( 1.6 55.5 .0209 122.8 88.8 1 40.1 19.0 23.3 10.0 30.0 12.0 (bone dry) 26 6.2 1.0 59 .0206 126.6 89.6 1 48.6 28.9 26.5 15.4 46.7 21.7 (bone dry) Vi right..... /Strip. 27 - 6.3 54.5 .0221 126.4 90.4 j 48.4 31.4 28.4 18.9 50.0 22.3 (bone dry) 1 '^ 28 6.6 .9 55 .0234 125.4 95.6 ' 42.8 19.2 27.5 14.6 42.0 18.0 (bone dry) 2 1 /„do-. 68.3 26.4 57.07 25.80 29 7.12 56.28 .0208 122.7 70.1 t Grab- 123.3 4.88 0 1 1 " 45.0 28.33 30 7.2 Uneven (with 88.0 55.0 Strip. 53.2 20.2 28.0 13.9 97.8 45.0 crammed warp stripe). 31 7.3 2/2.. 115.0 66.0 Strip- 97.7 38.0 45.2 23.6 167.4 62.8 32...... 8.15 2/2 right .3 59,0 .0210 114.0 58.0 Grab 128 67% 55 133% 60 11 of dry of dry

See footnotes at end of table.

104 TABLE 6L-—Properties of gabardine- —Continued

F abr ic—Continued Fiber length Yam

Twist (turns per Shrinkage in cleaning Number Crimp Type and inch, direction) Reference item number Filling Dry Wet Warp Ply Times System Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling cleaned Warp Filling Warp FiUing

Cotton; 100%: Single warp yams: PcL PcL Pet. Pet. In. In. No. No. Pet. Pet 1 f 2 3 W singlei 4 5 Two-ply warp 05(1944). yarns:

7 8 iW two.- 9 10 Wool, 100%: 11 Hanks/lb- 44.0 45.0 Single._- 16. OS 11.7Z U5(1935). 12 do 37.0 25.0 ._.do—- 12.6S 9.9Z 13 30 5.5 3.0 ' 18.2 21.1 15.7Z 15.6Z 12.7 14.3 14 30 7.0 4.0 17.7 18.9 14. 7Z 16.5Z 7.6 6.1 bypp W (1943). 15 30 7.5 5.0 (bone dry) 18.3 20.8 18.6Z 16.4Z 9.6 6.9 16 30 7.0 5.0 I 20.0 20.1 18. 5Z 15.6Z 21.6 7.8

Hanks/lb., 38.0 30.0 Single— 13. IS 10.9Z 17 1^5(1935). 18 ^do 2/38.0 36.0 W two, 11. IZ single 9.8Z F single. 17.8S ply 19 Typp._- 17.4 20.2 14.4 18.8 10.5 15.9 6Í (1943). (bone dry) 20 2.0 1.0 6.9 0.6 1.6 1.5 24.2 26.0 18.5Z 17.2Z ÍOÉ>(19S1), 21 (2/26.0 41.0 W two, 12.3Z single 9.2Z F single. 14, 7S ply 22 12/25.0 41.0 W two, 12.3Z single 9.7Z Hanks/lb._ F single. 13.2S ply U (1935). 23 1 41.0 41.0 Single— 21.3S 12. OZ fW two, 13.9Z single J1O.8Z 24 [2/25.0 35.0 \F single. 17. OS ply 25 30 9.5 2.0 / 22.2 26.4 27.4Z 20.4Z 14.7 11.6 26 30 10.5 1.0 21.6 26.8 21.0Z 19.9Z 19.9 14.1 JTypp 6Í (1943). 27 30 7.0 2.0 (bone dry) 20.5 24.4 23.6Z 18. 8Z 17.0 8.1 28 30 4.0 2.0 I 21.4 25.4 22. OZ 17.4Z 26.8 12.7

29 Hanks/lb.. 26.0 36.0 Single- 17.4S 13. OZ ^5(1935). 30 2.1 .5 8.4 1.8 3.2 2.4 17.5S 18.6S 1 3.1 U09 (1951) 31 1.1 1.4 1.4 1.5 15.9 17.5 19. IS 19.5Z 32 3.1 1.1 Typp 14.372 12. 768 Two, 17S 20s i^C1933). worsted. IIZ 12Z

365642—56 105 TABLE ñl,—Prope Hies of gabardine—Continued

Fabric

: Yams per Bursting Shrinkage In inch Breaking strength Elongation strength laundering ""^^^^ Weight number per Typeoftwili Thielr- square Finish Width ness Warp FUlhig yard Meth- Warp Filling od Warp FiUing Dry Wet Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet

Pet. In. In. No. No. Lb, Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. Pet. L&. Lb. Vfeeose, Pet, Pet,

4.2 2/2 left... 2.2 0.0135 135.0 61.9 87.8 40.4 23.3 M0.0 1.6 (bone dry) 34...... 4.2 2/2 left.-.-—. 2.8 .0150 134.4 63.1 78.4 28.9 22.7 3 8.0 1 0 (bone dry) 36...... 4.4 2.4 39 .0167 133.6 62.2 85.4 37.0 22.0 3 8.0 2.5 (bone dry) 36...... 4.4 2.0 39 .0172 134.1 61.4 72.6 28.0 21.3 Í8.0 1.0 (boûedry) 37...-.. 4.4 L4 39 . 0158 136. 7 64.8 79.6 40.6 20.0 313.0 3 0 (bone dry) .Strip- 38.-... 4 5 2.3 39 .0161 133.4 63.7 89.2 45.3 23.7 3 10.0 2 0 (bone dry) 39—... 4.5 6.7 39 .015 134.4 61.0 102^ 60.3 17.3 31.5 0 (bone dry) 40 .... 4.6 2.6 39 .0157 133.0 63.8 80.6 36.5 23.7 3 10.0 1.0 (bone dry) 41...-_. 4.6 6.9 39 .0142 125.0 62.0 90.4 62.4 16.7 s 6.Ö 0 (bone dry) 42...... 4.6 132 64 43...... 4.7 6.1 39 .0145 130.0 63.0 106.1 69.8 15.3 3 4.0 0 (bone dry) .979 44—... 6.7 39 .0148 121.0 63.0 96.0 66.6 19.0 3 2.0 0 (bone dry) 46-.... 4.8 13.6 39 .0154 131.0 62.0 90.6 61.6 13.3 *2.0 1.0 (bone dry) 46—... 4,9 13.7 39 .0154 131.0 61.0 98.2 53.4 10.7 3 3.0 +1.0 (bone dry) 47-.... 4.9 7.9 39 . 0158 137.0 64.0 Strip. 100.1 63.9 20.0 0 (bone dry) 3.5 48-.... 6.0 104.8 65.0 95.8 33.2 ASA 18.0 146.1 68.1 3.0 +3.9 49—... 6.0 132.2 63. S 78.2 36.8 35.2 18.8 119.4 53.3 4.3 +3,7 60...... 5.2 "Í5'2" '39""' ".'0148 132.0 60.0 100.9 60.4 Î2.'Ô" 31.5 0 (bone dry) 61—... 6.3 100.4 66.8 93.0 42.8 30.2 30.0 119.7 55.9 0 +.1 62 6.6 1.8 39 .0178 121.6 65.5 94.5 49.8 26.0 3 14.0 (bone dry) 0 Acetate- 39%; Tiscose,

6.4 ■ .6 39 .0187 105.2 57 4 62.6 29,6 36.8 18.8 30.0 19.7 «^r.... (bone dry) 64-.--.. 5.4 ,9 39 .0189 104.4 57.2 63.8 28.4 37.9 20.2 29.0 20.3 (bone dry) 65...-. 5.4 .6 39 .0190 103. 6 56.0 61.1 30.9 35.4 19.1 29.7 21.0 (bone dry) 66-..-. 5. 5 .6 39 ,0193 104. 6 69.0 63.6 29.0 37.3 21.0 28.3 21.0 (bone dry) ^2/1 right- Strip. 67 . 5.6 .6 39 .0188 105.4 57.0 65.6 31.0 35.6 19.0 30.3 19.3 (bone dry> 68—... 5. 6 .4 39 .0194 104.2 58.8 61.0 29.1 37.5 19.8 30.0 21.0 (bone dry) 69.—.. 6.7 .5 39 .0197 105.2 57.4 66.0 28.7 36.1 18.1 31.3 21.3 (bone dry) 60.-..,. 5.7 . 6 39 .0198 104,8 58.0 62.6 28.9 36.8 20.2 30.7 20.0 (bone dry) Vlseose- cotton: 61 4.8 2/2 134 65 1 - - - 1- i 1 1 1W Indicates warp; F, filling. 3 Plus indicates stretch. < Laundered 10 times.

106 TABLE 61.-—Properties q / gabardine-—Continued

F abric—Continued Fiber length Yam

Twist (turns per Shrinkage in cleaning Number Crimp Type and inch, direction) number Reference Dry Wet Warp Filling Ply number Times System Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Fülüig cleaned Warp Füling Warp Filling

Pet PCL PcL PcL In. In. No. No. PcL PcL Viscose, 100%: 33 10 3.0 1.0 50.8 55.2 22. 5Z 18.4Z 5.6 4.7 34 10 6.0 2.0 46.4 60.4 21.7Z 20.4Z 6.3 4.7 35 10 3.0 2.5 47.3 64.5 20.6Z 19.7Z 4.7 6.4 36 . 10 3.5 0 48.7 61.1 21. IZ 17.9Z 6.1 8.1 37 . 10 3.5 1.0 Worsted ^50.1 47.9 18.3Z 19.6Z 5.5 4.8 *5i (1942). (bone dry). 38 10 4.0 2.5 48.9 51.6 20.9Z 19.6Z 7.7 5.2 39 10 1.0 0 48.4 48.8 20.5Z 18. OZ 6.2 6.5 40 10 4.5 .5 47.5 48.0 20.3Z 21.2Z 6.6 7.1 41 10 2.5 1.0 49.0 44.0 19.8Z 19. IZ 4.6 7.4 42 1 Single-- îOê (1950). 43 10 2.5 +.5 47.4 44.2 19.4Z 17.6Z 8.8 6.6 44 10 1.5 0 46.9 45.0 20.2Z 18.3Z 6.5 7.8 45. 10 2.0 0 .Worsted 45.8 38.6 19.9Z 19. OZ 6.3 4.7 \5Í (1942). (bonedry). 46 10 3.5 +1.6 45.6 40.7 17.7Z 19. IZ 7.3 6.8 47 10 1.0 0 .46.4 42.3 20.2Z 17.3Z 7.3 6.0 48 4.5 1.0 10.1 2.5 1.4 4.2 23.7 23.6 20.6S 19.8S }l09 (1961). 49 2.0 .2 10.5 0 1.5 1.6 25.0 26.3 19.8S 18. OS 50 10 2.0 0 Worsted 46.4 43.7 18. IZ 19.7Z 6.1 8.6 61 (1942). (bone dry). 51 +1.0 +2.6 8.1 +.2 1.5 1.6 24.6 24.3 19.6Z 17.7Z 109 (1951). 52 10 3.5 +2.0 Worsted 38.4 43.1 19. IZ 17.6Z 8,8 8.8 SÎ (1942). (bone dry). Acetate, 39%; viscose, 61%: 63 30 7.0 2.0 19.6 18.9 25.2Z 24.7Z 12.4 11.7 54 30 6.0 1.0 20.7 20.9 25.4Z 25.7Z 23.2 20.3 S5 30 7.5 .5 19.3 19.9 25.4Z 24.5Z 16.9 13.8 56 30 6.0 +1.0 18.7 19.6 26.4Z 24.7Z 11,0 14.4 Typp 61 (1943). 57 30 7.0 0 (bone dry). 18.6 19.2 24.8Z 25.6Z 10.6 13.2 58 30 6.0 1.0 18.6 18.0 25. OZ 25.5Z 14.4 7.4 69 30 6.0 0 19.4 20.5 25. OZ 25.6Z 17.8 16.0 60 30 7.5 .5 18.7 18.1 24.9Z 25.2Z 13.7 9.7 Viscose cotton: 61 Singîe.-- Í0J8(1950). "1 '1

107 TABLE 62.—-Properties oj gingham: Cotton^ plain weave

Fabric

Yams, per Breaking strength Bursting Shrinkage in strength laundering Type and item Weight number per Finish Width Thick- square ness Warp Filling yard Fill- Warp Method Dry Warp Fill- ing Wet ing Dry Wet Dry Wet

Gingham: 02. Pet In, In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lk Lb. Pet. Pet. /Strip 27. Q 1 1.63 0.9 68.3 53.6 18.8 iGrab 28.2 18.9 }- 2 2.53 2.1 66.0 66.0 .-do 32.8 27.0 6.7 5 1 3 2.7 2.5 71.0 55.6 Strip 19.6 33.8 16.2 26.6 64.5 89,1 9.5 7 2 4.._ 2.83 20.8 63.3 40.3 Grab 65.6 19.3 11.7 3 2 6 2.9 2.4 69.5 57.5 Strip 33.8 36.5 27.0 27.0 79.9 98.7 11.6 8.1 /.-do - 33.6 28.3 6 -. 2.95 7.4 64.3 50.8 XGrab 36.8 30.6 }- 3.2 4 1 /Strip...... 46.9 7 3.00 2.1 71.8 64.7 39.0 IGrab 62.8 .._,.-..-- 44.3 8 3.40 2.9 72.0 71.0 Strip 39.1 42.4 48.6 /Strip 69.2 9 3.87 8.5 67.8 45.5 31.2 IGrab...... 77.7 33.2 4.7 1 6 10 3.90 7.7 68.9 45.0 --do 78.8 33.2 9.8 2 2 /Strip 11 4.00 71.0 47,0 60.6 29.0 IGrab 79,0 32.0 12.2 2 6 /Strip 66.4 12-.. 4.02 7.8 69.3 45.7 28.2 IGrab 70.0 30.5 8.8 1.0 13 4.08 5.0 28.8 0.0097 69,0 64.0 ..do 45 129% of 25 1 48% of 3.7 1 9 dry dry /Strip 72.3 14-. . 4.13 8.1 68.8 45.7 30.4 IGrab 77.8 30.9 9.7 2 1 15..__ _. 4.25 5.9 69.1 45.7 ..do ._. 86.0 34.1 8.8 1 3 Fine gingham: /Strip 16—. 1.80 2.2 99.5 86.5 29.8 19.1 IGrab - 30,3 17.8 }- 17- 2.0 1.5 85.6 66.4 Strip-.... 29.6 36.0 19.8 24.4 66,5 78.6 5.1 6.8

18 .-_ 2.33 3.3 119.7 54.5 f-do 50.7 19.9 .Grab 48.5 21,5 -19 2.54 1.35 35.50 .0072 97.9 86,8 ' 32.01 32.07 20-... 2.65 1.27 35.50 .0069 96.8 86.0 34.21 33.77 21 2.55 1.03 35.50 .0070 98.4 85.6 36.34 34.51 22 2.56 .97 36.50 .0073 98.1 85.4 34.13 31.92 23 2.62 1.13 35. 50 .0072 95.6 84.4 33.19 31.85 24 2.62 1.68 32.25 .0069 85.5 76.6 37.73 32.81 25 2.63 1.63 35.50 .0074 95,2 85.4 34.07 32.84 26 .... 2.7 1.2 84.0 77.0 33.2 41.4 32.5 38.4 78.4 115.5 9.1 6.5 27._. 2.701 1.71 32.12 .0073 84.4 76.3 31.83 26.00 28 2.72 1.63 32.25 .0064 84.1 75.0 35.21 29.14 29 ._.. 2.73 1.60 .0070 84.2 76.3 'Strip- < 36.27 28.08 30 2.73 1.63 "S2.'Ö5" .0063 83.7 75.3 36.39 2718 31 2.776 2.70 32.25 .0070 84.3 76.2 33.35 25.53 32 L_._ 2.786 2.12 32.12 .0068 84.4 76.1 36.73 30.33 33 2.788 1.96 32.00 .0071 84.2 76.1 37 91 34.63 34 2.79 1.68 32.25 .0061 83.0 77.7 37.06 29.97 35 2.8 .6 88.0 72.6 37.6 40.6 28.8 31.2 60.5 75.6 2.8 6.2 36 2.81 Î.31 32.25 .0068 84.7 76.0 40.39 32.34 37 2.81 1.35 32.00 .0063 84.3 75.6 37.56 31.00 38 2.876 .85 .0071 84.3 76,4 37.95 34.32 30 2.90 2.6 86.0 67.0 43.7 33.1 9.0 6 0 Strip 41.2 40 3.00 3.1 84.7 77.3 39.4 IGrab 43.5 44.7 } . 41 3.4 1.7 80.0 78.0 Strip 43.0 ""'54.T 29.8 39.2 107.3 131.3 1.5 1.5 Coarse gingham:

42 ..... 2.63 16.4 61.2 41.6 Grab 61.6 19.4 4.1 2.0 43 2.70 11.0 54.0 45.1 --do 48.6 30.6 11.5 9.3 44-_.. 2.80 8.7 55.0 49.4 fStrip 36.4 31.6 ] IGrab 40.5 37.2 r -- 9.0 6.4 45 2.97 6.9 54.7 47.1 Strip 41.8 26.1 8.4 6 3 46...- 3.20 19.7 61.1 48.3 f 46.8 29.8 55.8 27.8 1...... 3.9 6.8 4.60 5.9 46.8 43.0 Grab 4.0 2.6 48~:";^-^--;:".:i 4.67 7.7 46.6 41.7 62.4 49.7 68.6 51.8 4,0 2.7

103 TABLE 62— -Properties of gingham: Cotton^ plain weave—Continued

Fiber length Yam

Twist (turns per Crimp Number inch, direction) Type and item Reference number Warp Filling Ply System Warp Pilling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Gingham: In, In. No. No. Pet. PcL ■5^(1943). 2 g 1.1 1.2 26.9 26.4 26.2Z 26. 5Z 109 (1951), 4 62 (1943). 705(1951). 5 .9 1.2 24.8 25.7 26. IZ 20.6Z R 1 e^ (1943). 7 g Cotton 31.76 32.12 23. 4Z 23.6Z 8ê (1948). 9

10 6B (1943), 11

12 le (1933). 13 .7 .9 Typp 14.028 25.343 Single 19Z 26Z

14 15 6ß (1943). Fine gingham: 16 109 (1951). 17 1.2 1.1 61.2 49.4 32.4S 27. 8S 1.1 1.3 43.1 40.7 29.6Z 34. 7Z eá(1943). 18 19 i 53.1 46.5 24.7Z 18.6Z 20 54.9 47.0 25.8Z 18.6Z 21 53.3 47.9 25.7Z 17. OZ 22 Cotton 53.3 45.8 28.4Z 18.5Z W (1935). 23 52.7 43.8 24.4Z 19.42 24 41.2 39.6 25. OZ 19.7Z 25 I 63.3 47.7 27. 2Z 18. 4Z 26 1.1 1.1 36.5 34.7 32. 8Z 22. 9Z 109 (1951). 27 41.88 38.13 Single.. 27. 6Z 21. 2Z 3.90 15,55 74(1933). 28 42.2 41.2 23. IZ 15. OZ 20 (1935). 29.... _ .._ 42.57 38.52 Single 26.9Z 18. IZ 3.90 14.25 U (1933). J 38.8 44.0 20. 3Z 18. OZ 20 (1935). 30 iCotton 31... \ 42.28 39.39 Í 28.3Z 21. 2Z 6.'03' """Í7."00" 32 42.90 38.07 isingle _ \ 26.5Z 20. OZ 4.25 16.25 >14 (1933). 33 44.86 40.56 I 25.6Z 19.8Z 3.55 17.25 34 \ 39.1 39.7 23.3Z 18. OZ 20 (1935). 109 (1951)» 35 1.3 1.3 36.2 29.8 25. IS 35. 4S 36 38.5 41.6 20.8Z 17. 7Z }^0 (1935), 37 } Cotton \ 39.1 42.9 22. 2Z 16.8Z 38 . . 1 40.89 34.90 Single- 23.5Z 19. 2Z 4.45 16.05 U (1933). 39 ào - 95 (1950), 40 62 (1943). 705(1951). 41 1.2 1.2 25.1 32.3 22,8Z 25. 5Z Coarse gingham: 42 ¿ID 44 d^í píl943). 46 ¿7 - 4S 1 1

109 TABLE 63.-—Propi 3rties of lawn and organdie: Cotton, plain weave

Fabric

Yams per inch Breaking strength Elongation Fabric and item num- Weight ber per Thick- square Finish Width ness Warp FUling yard Warp Fining Warp Filling Method (dry) (dry) Dry Wet Dry Wet

Lawn: PcL In: In. No. No, Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. Pd. /Strip. 25.8 12.6 1 1.28 5.3 71.7 54.0 \Grab. 26.4 13.8 /Strip 33.3 13.8 1.40 72.7 54.3 \Grab-..— 28.4 15.9 /Strip 22.5 13.9 1.40 76,3 68.7 iGrab 21.4 15.5 /Strip-.—- 25, 5 15.7 A 1.43 75.9 67.9 iGrab.-..- 24.6 18.4 / Strip 27.4 16.4 v.... K 1.58 87.9 77.6 \Orab..— 29.4 19.0 /Strip...— 31.8 17.6 0 1.63 87.9 79.7 IGrab-.—. 32.6 19.5 7—.—.-. 1.64 1.4 39.5 0.0046 114.0 107,0 ...do.--- 25 ""Ï5'6%or 19 121% Of 5 5 âry dry /Strip—— 33.0 19 1\70 2.8 100.2 97.0 \Grab—- 33.6 18.5 /Strip - 33.6 20,4 ' ' w_^. 1.80 1.6 100.3 97.2 \Grab-— 32.0 21.7 /Strip.—- 31.4 15.2 10 ---- 1.83 2.7 89.1 76,8 \Grab..— 30.6 18.0 /Strip—— 35.3 15.2 = ■%-t 1,83 2.4 109.0 89,8 \Grab—... 35. 5 15.6 /Strip- 34.0 17.7 12 1.87 1.9 100.7 97.0 \Grab-..... 34.9 2L4 13-^_._.--_. 2,2 1.2 84.0 107.0 Strip—— 21.4 28.6 34.6 37.0 Organdie: 141— 1.34 0 45.5 .0047 8fi.0 68.0 Grab...— 23 161% of 16 106% of 0 5 dry dry 10 * -- 1.4 40 80 70 Strip. 24.8 13.3 2 3 12 4 84.0 73.0 ...do 13. Ö 9.6 5.0

1 Permanent finish. 3 Paste dot t Crimp: Warp 1.6 percent; filling 6.4 percent.

110 TABLE 63.—Properties of. lawn and organdie: Cotton^ plain weave—Continued

Fabric—C ontinued Yarn Fiber Length Shrinkage in Twist (turns per laundering Number Fabric and item Bursting inch, direction) Eeference number strengtli number Piy Warp Filling Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling Dry Wet

Lawn: Lb, Lb. Pet. Pet. In. In. No. No. 1 3.7 5.8 2 _- --- 6.4 4.0 3... 1.4 6.3 6B (1943). 4 1.6 6.7 5 1.3 8.6 6 - 1.3 10.3 7 .8 2.8 1.0 0.9 Typp 72.836 93.156 Single 35Z 16Z Î2 (1933).

8 9 10 1.5 11.5 »6^(1943). 11 12 13 1.6 7.5 1,2 L2 54.3 44.3 33.3Z 24.8Z 109 (1951). Organdie: 14 1 .3 1.3 61.471 75.222 Single Z Z IB (1933), 15 3 Typp 58.5 74.0 66 (Í944). 163 27.7 20.6 3.2 11.9 L2 1.2 53.6 70.9 27. OZ 40.3Z 109 (1951).

Ill TABLE 64,—Properties of percale: Cotton, plain weave^ approximately 36 inches wide

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Bursting strength Type 1 and item Weiglit number per Finish square Warp Filling Filling yard Warp Dry Wet Warp Filling Method {dry) (dry) Dry Wet Dry Wet

Oz, Pa, No. No, Lb, Lb. Lb. Lb. Pet. Pet. Lb. Lb. 1,80 10.9 60.3 44.7 Grab- 36.7 16.2 fStrip-. 40.4 20.3 2.12 6.0 61.1 46.5 \Grab-. 41.0 22.0 2.13 13.7 60.4 44.7 .-.do._. 36.5 19.8 /Strip.. 35.5 15.1 2.20 15.6 63.4 46.7 I Grab- 36.6 16.7 2.2 60 45 Strip-. 31.68 13.35 4.30 6.70 2.3 5.0 61 66 ..do- 40.2 21.2 21.8 5.3 12.7 2.33 16.2 60.4 44.5 Grab-. 39.0 18.7 /Strip.. 37.50 14.20 45.1 3.53 10.00 2.354 12.05 62.4 \Grab.. 42.50 18.55 3.33 11.50 2.40 14.2 59.7 46.2 .-do... 35.9 18.4 /Strip.. 36.40 14.20 4.87 9.83 2.440 14.72 61.1 46.9 iGrab- 41.75 18.20 4.17 11.50 38.70 15.35 45.9 /Strip.. 5.00 12.83 2.441 8.31 69.0 I Grab . 40.70 20.40 5.00 15.67 2.5 14.6 59.7 46.2 30.0 33.2 15.0 15.2 64.3 2.5 67 49 Strip-, 32.7 16.2 10.1 2.5 69 49 35.2 18.3 6.8 11.6 /-.do... 34.40 18.35 9.33 56.1 4.17 2.525 9.38 65.1 \Grab-_ 40,00 23.45 4.17 9.83 /Strip.. 36.55 15.50 Ï1.33 45.1 5.67 2.545 13.04 63.7 I Grab.. 42.45 17.80 5.00 13.00 2.67 29.6 60.6 44.5 do... 36.9 16.1 /Strip-. 41.05 13.05 3.33 9.00 63.5 44.8 2.680 18.35 \Grab.. 44.05 18.40 4.17 13.67 2.7 68 53 Strip- 33.35 16.30 3.83 8.97 2.7 67 50 37.2 20.6 6.6 11.9 /-do... 40.90 15.35 45.4 4.83 9.67 2.755 15.86 64.0 lOrab.. 46.25 18.10 5.00 13.33 /Strip-. 40.85 53.5 19.20 4-67 12.60 2.773 14.75 \Grab-. 44.00 21.30 5.00 14.00 54.4 /Strip- 34.70 21.05 5.83 13.33 2.792 8.91 66.4 \Grab.. 39.95 27.95 5.83 15-83 /Strip- 21.8 9.2 42.8 2.80 30.0 66.1 \Grab,. 33.6 10.7 2.8 66.4 56.0 Strip-. 44.2 44.8 22.4 22.8 78.7 2.20 4.8 67.2 56.0 Strip- 47.2 27.4 2.40 4.4 68.2 59.8 Grab- 47.2 30.2 2.4 3.8 66.2 57.6

2.4 70 55 Strip- 37.73 17.79 6.70 2.47 7.5 67.8 58.0 Grab.. 40.4 25.6 2.47 4.8 68.5 56.5 —do... 43.8 29.4 /Strip.- 37,2 18.4 2.47 5.3 69.0 57.9 iGrab.. 37.7 21.0 /Strip.. 44.6 20.8 2.50 11.1 67.5 56.7 I Grab-. 48.2 24.4 / Strip.- 38.50 19.85 68.4 58.2 5.83 12.67 2.568 3.02 \G^ab_. 42.45 25.10 6.67 17.00 rstrip- 39.8 23.2 2.57 8.5 67.4 55.6 IQrab- 40.6 26.6 /Strip . 44.4 21.2 2.57 5.6 68.8 57.5 iGrab- 45.7 27.5 fStrip-. 37.10 20.15 2.579 68.5 58.7 5.83 14.83 3.38 I Grab- 42.20 23.70 5.83 15.67 /Strip.. 39.2 20.1 2,58 8.1 68.7 58.1 IQrab- 41.0 22.0 2.60 9.0 67.7 57.1 42.5 26.8 2.60 5.7 68.3 56.2 Grab-. 50.4 28.4 2.60 7.1 68.7 56.5 43.0 30.2 39.2 58.2 /Strip.. 18.8 2.60 9.8 68.2 IGrab.. 38.6 20.4 /Strip- 38.6 21.6 2.63 4.8 57.5 \Grab-. 40.6 26.0 /Strip.. 36.3 21.6 2.65 8.4 67.3 57.5 \Grab-. 39.0 25.6 /Strip.. 44.70 23.85 5.00 67.5 67.8 13.67 2.667 6.50 I Grab-. 48.00 27. 50 5,83 15. 83 2.70 12.0 68.5 56.2 Grab.. 44.2 28.0 2.7 73 61 Istrip-. 40,85 23.36 13.13 2.7 10.0 71.8 58.6 35.8 44.4 15.2 17.6 /„do.. 37.6 22.4 2.75 11.6 68.0 56.6 \Grab.. 39.0 27,8 2.75 10.9 68.1 /Strip-. 35.6 20.8 57.1 IGrab-. 36.2 24.7 /Strip-. 46.35 21.80 2.787 11.49 67.3 56.9 5.00 12.67 iGrab-, 50.20 26.50 6.00 14.67 See footnotes at end of table.

112 TABLE 64.—Properties of percale: Cotton, plain weave, approximately 36 inches wide Continued

Fabric— C ontinued Yarn

Twist (direction, Shrinkage in laundering Number turns per itieti) Reference number Type ^ and item number Ply

Tempera- Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling ture

Below type 124: ° F. Pet Pet, No. No. 212 4.3 6.8 100 4.1 4.3 }Ô2 (1942). 212 5.9 5.3 4 100 4.0 3.1 K 88 (1949). ß 5.5 7.0 Cotton 33.63 38.59 22.6Z 2Ï. 7Z 79 (1947), 8ê (1948). / 100 5.7 6.8 ] 5ê (1942), \ 212 6.8 6.2 r 45 (1940). g 3.81 3.47 Typp -_ 24.5 31.5 Single 12.4Z 20.6Z 212 6.1 8.1 í^(1942). 4.87 3.47 Typp 24.5 32.5 Single 14.3Z 25. IZ 10 Ï45 (1940). 11 4.51 0 do 26.9 34.9 do.. 16.8Z 25. OZ 27.2Z Î09 (1951). 12 6.5 6.6 28.2 41.3 24.5Z m*2 Cotton. __ 28.6 35.9 25.8 22.5 ]iÖ4. (1951). ^Á* _ do 28.9 35.7 24.8 22.6 15 3.81 5.21 Typp 25.0 33.9 Single 14.3Z 20.4Z 1 U5(1940). 16 5.21 1.73 do.- 23.9 32.0 do. 12.4Z 23.8Z r 100 5.6 4.3 } .- 5B (1942). 17 1 212 6.5 3.2 / 26.3Z 45 (1940). 18 5.51 L73 Typp 22.2 28.0 Single.- 13.3Z 1Q 85(1949). Cotton 28.7 35.4 26.0 22.6 ÎO4 (1951). 21 4.87 2.08 23.0 28.5 ■ 16.5Z 24.6Z

'45 (1940). 22 3.81 2.43 Typp -.- 23.8 33.9 Single :. 14.5Z 23.2Z 23 -- --- 4.51 4.16 1 20.7 28.9 17.7Z 22.4Z 100 4.7 1.2 52 (1942). 105(1961). 25 6,7 6.3 26.7 34.5 22.9S 25.9S Type 124; 212 5.2 5.7 ^ê (1942). 07 212 4.6 3.2 9R 6.4 3.8 Typp (bone 29.2 35.2 25.9Z 24.6Z 67 (1944). dry). 29 89 (1949). 100 4.2 4.0 212 5.2 2.9 on 100 2.9 4.1 6ß (1942). f 100 4.3 3.8 ] ._ Cá { 212 4.7 4.4 J 24.7Z 34 2.78 3.47 Typp .. 25.8 34.5 Single 15.7Z 4S (1940). qc 100 4.6 4.3 p (1942). do 100 4.3 5.1 13.7Z 24.8Z 45 (1940). 37 3.47 2.43 Typp 26.5 35.6 Single 100 4.3 4.0

39 212 5.0 3.8 f 100 4.1 5.2 ] 40 ^ * 1 212 5.2 4.3 / 212 5.4 4.3 p (1942). / 100 3.7 4.6 ] 42 \ 212 4.9 3.7 J itj 100 3.2 3.9

4^ -. 100 3.2 5.6 15.4Z 20. OZ 45 3.81 3.47 Typp 24.4 32.0 Single 45 (1940). 212 4.2 6.5 62 (1942). 47 89 (1949). 48 5.1 1.9 25.5 35.6 25.2S 29.8S 109 (1951). / 100 4.3 3.7 }._ 49 -\ 212 4.8 3.2 J m (1942), 3.2 3.4 ^ïft f 100 } -{ 212 4.7 2.9 3.81 .35 Typp - 22.0 31.2 Single 17.5Z 21.9Z ' 45 (1940). 51 1 '

113 TABLE 64.^—Properties oj percale: Cotton, plain weave, approximately S6 inches wide—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Bursting strength Type 1 and item number Weight per Finish square Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Method Dry (dry) (dry) Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Tvpe 124—Con. Oz, Pet. No. No. iö. Lb, Lb. Lb. Pet Pd. Lb. Lb. 52 -. 2.80 14.4 67.0 57.0 f 43.1 29.9 2.80 9.6 67.3 58.9 J 43.8 53 ■Grab- 29.1 54 .-.- 2.80 10.6 68.4 57.7 1 42.9 29.4 55 --- 2.80 7.7 68.6 56. 5 [ 43.7 27.0 56 2.8 5.3 71 56 / 37.0 42.2 20.6 24.2 7.3 15.3 57 .._.—...- 2.8 2.4 77.0 67.0 }strip-...-. 1 36.4 ; 41. 2 26.2 25.4 40. 65 22.5 2.815 11.63 68.2 56.6 /-do— 4.60 13.17 \-...-._. 58. I Grab 47.15 26.50 4.67 16.67 /Strip 38.65 21.45 59 _— - 2.864 8.26 67.4 56.2 4.00 14.83 I Grab 43. 65 30.00 6.00 i 16.17 J .Strip.. — . 42.50 22. 70 2.894 9.77 68. 4 56. 3 5.50 14.00 iGrab—.-. 49. 50 27.40 5.33 16.33 } 61 ...... 2.90 8. 0 69.7 56.8 42.4 30.8 62...... —. 2.9 6.3 72.0 65.5 / 37.5 ""'"46."Ö" 19.5 26.0 63...... 2.9 1.1 80.0 56.0 jstrip—... t 34.6 40. 2 26. 2 32.6 41.8 2. 92 12.3 68.2 56.8 /..do- . 22. 7 iOrab..— 41.6 27.4 J1—..... T3rpe 140: 65.._.———. 2. 47 7.1 72.2 67.0 .-.do..— 46.0 32.8 66...—--.— 2.7 4.8 83.5 56.0 Strip-- —_ 43.4 48.6 21.6 20.2 67.. - 2.80 5.9 72.5 67.2 43.9 29.6 2.80 68 -. .... 1.5 86.7 69. 5 •Grab.-.-. 1 51.4 30.6 69 ...... - 2.80 5.9 72. 5 67.2 i 43.9 29.6 70 .- 2.8 8.8 87.0 59.0 45.8 48.3 20.8 22.3 71 - 2.8 2.1 80.0 72. 5 •Strip-. —- i 44.5 47.7 27.2 28.6 72 -. 2.8 .8 84. 5 61.0 [37.0 45.8 18. 0 17. 2 73— 2.87 9.7 73.1 68.8 Grab—. 41. 2 31.8 /Strip 32.6 - -, *«taa 74....-.—.._- 2. 88 5.6 74.6 67.2 18.9 IGrab 33. 2 22.4 } 75...—.....— 2.9 3.3 80.0 67.0 Strip- 32.0 26.3 23.0 76 . 2.9 12.4 70.7 58.7 ...do 35.6 38.2 18,0 19.2 53.2 65 5 42.8 2.93 5.7 73.6 67.3 /-do—.., 26,4 77. ... I Grab 44.2 33.0 45.9 { 2.97 8.0 72.6; /Strip—. 28.5 78 67.6 lOrab...... 46.2 33.6 38.0 24.1 79-. 3.00 8.4 73.4 68.3 /Strip iGrab 43.0 28.0 80 ... 3.0 3.8 78.0 72.5 í 36.8 23.8 38,8 58.4 74 9 81....—..-..-. 3.0 8.5 76.5 73.0 Istrip-.—. ■ 38.2 36.4 21.4 27.4 36.4 27. 4 82—..-.—-- 3. 03 5.2 85.9 67.0 , 49.8 25.5 Grab—. 54.6 30.8 /Strip.—. 47.95 83.-.—.-— — 3.098 6.36 85.7 66.1 22. 80 6.00 10.83 I tGrab....._ 51.10 30.80 5.00 15.00 J ' /Strip-.—, 41.2 84..... — 3,10 9.5 73.5 22.0 66.7 .Grab—.. 43.9 30.0 }----! 85.... —...... - 3.1 2.4 76.0 73.0 f 29.2 """39."Ô" 17.0 19. 8 86... .— 3.1 2. 5 80.0 69. 7 43.8 48.0 33.8 37.8 -- 64.8 95 0 3.1 11.6 81. 8 87 59.8 Strip.— 40.8 49.6 14.8 19.0 39.6 102 8 88 . . .- 3.1 1.8 82.6 66.0 40.6 52.8 23.4 28. 2 57,2 95 6 89*.....- 3.1 77 65 44.6 30.4 7,9 15.4 90*..-...... — 3.1 76 64 40.2 25.8 8.2 16.6 -do 91..-.-.-.-..-. 3.129 6.09 86.3 67.4 48.50 24.10 4.33 11.67 \ .Grab- 61.75 29.16 4.33 15.33 J 92...—... — ,. 3.142 8.U 86.4 64.9 /Strip-..-,. 49,95 22. 95 5.67 13.07 IGrab 55.60 32.10 6,83 17. 50 93-..-.. — -. 3.182 6.39 87.5 66. 7 'Strip 50. 45 21. 46 5.00 11.67 \Grab 56.30 29.10 5,83 15.83 94*-..- — 3.3 77 66 Strip- 39. i 26.0 6.3 12.2 Type 160: 2.2 1.4 88.0 77.0 44.8 53.0 26.2 33.2 63.0 101 4 96--.-..—.-. 2.2 2.0 88.2 76.5 45.2 52.0 26. 8 33.8 67.7 98.4 97...- — : 2.3 1.5 89.6 78.4 48.6 61,0 32.4 36.0 70.4 106.2 98.... -.-.- 2 4 1.9 88.0 74.0 Strip 46.0 45.6 31.6 31.0 74.2 91 3 99...... 2.5 3.4 87.8 78.3 45.8 54.4 33.0 40.0 79.4 103 0 100 . 2.6 80 80 41. 55 28.60 5. 30 12,60 101...... -..- 2.707 1,53 93 90 . 37.00 35.90 102—— 2.80 5.9 85.7 73.9 Grab...... 50.8 30.8 103 - — 2.9 2.1 88.0 81.0 Strip 36.0 36.0 21. 4 20.0 104.. —...... 2.9 2.3 90.6 74,2 ...do 46. 0 41.6 18.6 22.0 61.6 82 2 105...... — ..- 3.00 3.1 87.0 72.0 46.2 32,6 ■Grab...— 106. —...... 3.00 41 87. 4 73.3 46.4 36.4 107-.. 3.00 4.4 87.8 72.0 61.6 39.6 108 3.0 1.8 88.5 77.0 46. 8 50.2 26.0 29.0 109...... 3.0 2.4 96. 0 76.5 ■Strip..— 44.8 43.0 18.0 19.8 54.8 76 6 110..- — — - 3.0 2.9 85.4 77.4 43. 8 50.6 26.2 28.2 62.0 97 0 111... — . — .- 3.07 3.6 85.8 73.1 Grab-...- Ö3.5 36.2 112—— ..._. 3.07 3.8 87.0 71. 4 -..do—.. 66.6 38.0 113._-. —.... 3.07 5.9 88.1 75. 6 fStrip...... 48.7 34.0 I iHjfraD....-.! 51.8 42.5 /- See iootnotes at end of table. TABLE M.—Properties of percale Cotton, plain weave, approximately 36 inches wide—Contmued

Fabric—Continued Yarn

Twist (direction, Shrinkage in laundering Number turns per inctt) Type Î and item number . Reference number Piy

Tempera- Warp Filling System Warp Fining Warp Fining ture

Type 124r-Con. ° F. Pet. Pet. No. No. 212 6.8 6.7 53 212 6.3 3.8 •BS (1942). 54 212 6.0 .9 55 212 6.4 3.2 56 2.6 .5 Cotton 31.38 36.32 23.6Z 2Ï. OZ 79 (1947), 8$ (1948), 67 2.8 6.4 28.7 35.3 43. 7Z 63.4Z 109 (1951). 24.1 29.0 14.5Z 22.2Z 58 _ 3.81 3.47 Typp - 24.4 25.7 'Single 12. OZ 17.5Z 4¿í (1940). 59 _ - — 4.16 3.47 do ...- 24.1 31.8 , 17.6Z 22.6Z 60 - 3.81 4.16 do 61 212 5.4 .7 6IS (1942). 62 2.8 2.7 25.9 34.8 27.6Z 26.6Z W9 (1951). 63 L6 1.9 31.2 33.1 22. IZ 24.2Z 64 100 3.2 4.3 '52 (1942). Type 140: 65 —- 212 5.3 5.4 66 6.7 5.0 28.4 37.8 25,2Z 19.8Z 109 (1951). 67 — 212 4.5 6.5 1 68.. —- 100 4.2 2.1 m (1942). 212 6.3 1.6 69 212 4.5 6.5 70 6.8 5.0 26.3 39.2 27. 5Z 27.8Z I 71 2.8 4.1 27.2 32.4 23.2Z 29.8Z }i09 (1961). 72 4.0 4.8 26.0 37.8 23.3Z 25. 7Z 1 73 212 4.6 3.2 y^ (1942). 100 2.8 3.8 74 212 3.7 3.5 14.9Z 75 5.4 4.5 29.4 34.4 17. IZ ■W9 (1951). 76 6.4 7.6 26.0 30.4 30, 6Z 27.4Z 77 100 3.4 4.1 78 100 4.1 3.8 ôê (1942). 212 4.7 4.8 79 212 4.6 1.7 80 2.8 3.6 26.9 39.4 2Í3.3Z 27. 2Z }iö9 (1961). 81 5.6 6.9 27.2 37.7 24. OZ 28.2Z 82 100 3.6 2.3 5ê (1942). 1.0 212 4.8 Typp 26.3 33.2 Single-- 15.4Z 25.3Z 45 (1940). 83 4.16 1.39 5Z (1942). 84 . - 212 5.0 1.6 85 1.4 .6 27.7 37.8 64. 6Z 62. OZ 86 5,0 .1 25.7 31.8 24.3^ 26, 4S \l09 (1951). 87 lllô 3.5 26.2 36.5 27 7Z 26.2Z 88 5.1 6.9 28.3 32.6 24. 4Z 32. OZ 89* Cotton 28.7 35.4 26.0 22,6 y 04 (1951). 90* do 28.9 35.7 24 8 22.6 Typp . 25.9 34,4 91 . . . 3.81 .70 Í 13. OZ 21. 8Z do 26.7 32.3 92 4.16 .70 Single 13.3Z 21.4Z 45 (1940). do...-._— 26.6 34.6 93 -- 4.16 1.04 16. IZ 24. 6Z 94* 28.6 35.9 25.8 22.5 í 0^(1951). Type 160: 95 5.7 1.7 26.0 34.8 24. 8Z 25. 2Z 96 5.9 2.6 27.6 33.9 25. 5S 23. 6S 97 6.5 .6 26.5 33.4 19. 6Z 26.8Z \l09 (1951). 98 4.5 2.8 26.4 34.6 23.3Z 27.3Z 99 2.4 2.0 26.3 32.8 27. IZ 28.2Z 100 89 (1949). 101 Typp 42.31 37.79 27S 25S 38 (1938). 102 212 5.4 1.4 oß (1942). 103 4.2 4.8 28.5 39.7 24.3Z 27. ÍZ ]l09 (1951). 104 2.9 1.7 32.8 38.6 26. 7S 28. 3S / 100 4.3 1.9 I 105 \ 212 5.1 1.1 r Us (1942). 106 212 6.2 1.8 107 212 5.8 1.5 108 6.1 3,4 25.6 38.2 23. 7S 25. 6S 109 2.0 1.4 33.6 36.9 27.3Z 25. 2Z Il09 (1951). 110 5.8 4.4 29.1 35.3 22.6Z 29. 9Z 111 212 6.8 2.6 112 212 5.3 1.2 Us (1942). f 100 1.9 8.6 ) 113 "i 212 2.6 7.6 Í

115 TABLE 64,—Properties of percale: Cotton, plain weave, approximately 36 inches má^—Continued

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strengtli Elongation Bursting strength Type 1 and item Weight number per Finish square Warp Filling yard Warp Filling Method Warp Filling (dry) (dry) Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Type 160—Con. Oz. Pet. No. No, Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Fct. Pet. Lb. Lb. lU 3,097 3.98 86.7 71.0 /Strip 40.90 24,30 5.83 13.83 I Grab 46.70 32.20 5.00 17.00 ns.. 3.10 3.1 85,6 74.1 /Strip 49,4 32.0 \Grab 53.5 38.9 116., 3.1 2.6 88.0 77,0 Strip 44.8 57.2 28,8 35.1 5QA 100. & /-do...... 117-. 3.12 3.0 85.4 73.8 45.8 31.8 \Grab 48.4 39.0 118-. 3.12 5.0 86.5 74.6 /Strip..... 46.8 27.4 I Grab 48.3 32.4 119.. 3.13 5.4 85.3 74.5 /Strip 46.4 28.3 \Grab 48.6 36,2 120.. 3.13 3.7 85.6 72.8 I Grab 55,8 35.4 121.. 3.13 5.1 87.8 72.9 55.1 37.8 122.. 3.133 2.65 85.6 74.9 /Strip 45. 50 26.50 5.00 13.67 IGrab 51.20 37,50 5,00 16,50 fStrip_.... 123.. 3.15 4.8 86.3 74.1 46.7 30.3 \Grab 50.6 33.8 124.. 3.15 3.4 86.4 74.3 /Strip 51.6 31.5 IGrab 57.0 37.0 125.. 3.15 4.0 87,2 84.8 /Strip 43,4 27.6 I Grab 43.0 31.0 126.. 3.17 3.5 84.7 74.6 do 58.1 39.2 /Strip 127.. 3.17 1.8 86.3 74.8 46.4 29.0 iQrab 49.8 32.5 128.. 3.17 2.7 86.6 76.4 'Strip 44.4 29.4 Grab 45.8 35.8 129.. 3.18 3,2 86.1 77.6 Strip 44.2 29.8 Grab 47.7 38.2 130.. 3.196 2.58 86.2 73.5 /Strip 43,70 23.70 5.83 12,83 IGrab 49.95 31.00 5.53 16.67 131.- 3.20 6.3 86.0 76.6 ..-do 52.3 /Strip 132. 3.20 4.4 87.0 48.0 27,8 \Grab 61.6 36.0 133. 3.2 2.4 86.5 75.6 jstrip 45.8 59.0 25.6 34.0 134. 3.2 3.2 85.6 75.2 36.8 51,8 35,0 29.6 101.^ 135. 3.218 2.74 86,3 75.3 /-do...... 50.35 31.95 4.50 14,33 IGrab 55.15 45.25 4.17 17.00 136. 3.22 4.6 85.9 74.6 /Strip 50.2 31.0 iGrab 53.4 36.6 137-, 3.22 3.5 86.3 75.5 /Strip. 51.6 32.8 IGrab 56.4 40.0 138,, 3.22 5.4 86.6 75.6 /Strip 45.4 28.0 IGrab 48.6 32.7 139., 3.22 3.4 87.4 75.6 /Strip 51.2 28.9 \Grab 66.6 35.0 140.. 3.23 5.2 71.6 do. 46,9 35.6 141.. 3.23 1.7 74.7 /Strip 53,4 35.2 iGrab 58.4 42,40 142.-_ 3.235 5,21 85.4 75.4 /Strip..... 46.25 30,05 5.00 13.33 IGrab 61,00 40.2 4.33 16.33 143.... 3.249 3.79 85.3 73.7 /Strip 41.45 31.65 5.83 13.83 IGrab 47,50 42,05 5.00 16.17 144 3.25 4.7 87.1 73.1 Strip 45.4 27.8 Grab 47,6 30.8 145_. 3.269 2.74 86.1 73.2 /Strip 42.55 21.60 5.33 12.00 IGrab 49.55 32.85 5.50 17,20 146,.. 3.271 87.2 74.5 /Strip 44.15 24.50 5.67 13.00 IGrab 50.40 33.40 6.00 16.17 /Strip 147- 3.275 4.60 86.0 77.7 49.45 30.60 5.83 14.17 \Grab 54.50 41.30 5,83 18.00 148- 3.28 2.7 85.6 76.1 /Strip 46.8 33.0 IGrab 52,5 39.6 /Strip 149 3.30 .6.8 85.6 72.6 48.8 29.4 IGrab 49.4 33.4 160.- 3.30 4.7 86.6 78,4 /Strip 45.2 26,0 IGrab 47,9 31.7 15U-. 3.30 3.9 75.3 /Strip 46.4 33.6 IGrab 50.4 40.1 152 3.30 6.3 75.6 -do. 65.7 34.7 See footnotes at end of table.

116 TABLE 64.—Properties oj ¡percale: Cotton, plain weave y approximately 36 inches wide—Continued

Fabric— C ontinued Yarn

Twist (direction, Shrinkage in laundering Number turns per inch) Type 1 and item number Beference number Ply

Tempera- Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling ture Warp

Type 160—Con. ° F, PcL PcL No. No. 45 (1940). 114 4.87 1.73 Typp 28.5 34.3 SingJe_ - 18.8Z 27. IZ 5:^(1942). 115 100 4.8 3.5 116 1.5 4.6 36.5 27.2 27. OS 26.5S 109 (1951). 117 100 3.1 3.8 100 4.1 2.1 118 Se (1942). 119 100 6.6 2.7 120 212 6.0 2.9 121 212 3.1 4.3 122 3.81 2.78 Typp 27.8 36.6 Single 19, 7Z 26.5Z 4S (1940). r 100 4.0 3.9 123 \ 212 5.3 2.3 1 124 100 4.1 4.2 r 100 3.4 3.8 125 I 212 4.3 2.9 }._J 126 212 5.8 3.6 52 (1942). 127 100 3.2 2.6 f 100 4.4 2.4 } 128 \ 212 4.4 3.7 f 100 3.3 3.2 129 \ 212 4.9 3.0 r 130 3.81 2.08 Typp-- - 26.0 36.5 Single- 18. 9Z 27, IZ 45 (1940). f 100 4.2 2.1 131 ).. _.- 1 1 212 5.4 1.8 Í ■52 (1942). 132 100 4.1 4.3 30.3S 133 5.7 4.0 26.7 40.0 22. 4S jiÖP (1951). 134 6.0 4.8 28.6 37.1 23. 2Z 23. OZ 135 3.81 2.43 Typp.-- 28.4 35.2 Single 19.5Z 23.9Z 45(1940).

136 100 3.4 4.3 137 100 3.7 3.8 f 100 5.3 2.3 138 52 (1942). \ 212 5.8 1.4 J1 f 100 3.8 2.8 139 \ 212 4.6 1.3 V-J -- 140 212 6.0 1.2 - / 100 2.9 2.2 141 ) I 212 4.3 2.3 J 4.16 2.43 Typp 27.4 31.6 Single... 16. IZ 22.5Z 142 L5(1940). 143 4.87 2.43 do -_ 29.5 31.0 Single 18.5Z 22.9Z 144 100 2.9 4.4 52 (1942). 145 4.61 1.73 Typp- - 25.9 32.7 19.2Z 24. IZ

146 4.51 1.04 do 26.1 35.8 Isingle... ^ 17.5Z 23.8Z [45 (1940).

147 4.51 2.08 do 27.6 32.7 i 19.5Z 21. IZ ; 100 4.4 3.9 148 1 212 6.7 3.2 r 100 4.1 3.7 149 t 212 6.1 3.0 / 100 3.7 3.5 52 (1942). 150 I 212 4.7 2.2 /' / 100 3.7 3.1 1 151 t 212 5.0 1.8 / 152- — 3.1 3.6

M7 TABL^ 64.—Properties of percale: Cotton, plain weave, approximately 36 inches wide—Continued

Fabric

Yams per inch Breaking strength Elongation Bursting strength Type 1 and item number Weight per Finisti square Warp Puling yard Warp Filling Method Warp Filling (dry) (dry) Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Type 160—Con, Oz. PH. Ño. No. Lb. Lb, Lb. Lb. Pet. Pet. Lb. 153._ _... Lb. 3.3 2.6 88.0 80.0 47.0 55.6 25.8 31.7 92.6 154.... „ 3.3 4.7 87.5 73.0 'Strip...- 35.4 44.6 22.8 25.8 48.8 75.1 165 . 3.3 2.7 89.0 74.5 45.8 50.0 27,0 29.0 52.9 88.8 r..do,..„. 156-....-...., 3,321 4 84 86.8 76.0 49.70 32.16 5.00 14,50 \Grab..... 66.40 39.90 4,67 17,60 /Strip } - 157.... — ..-. 3,33 5.9 86. 7 75.0 42.8 27.8 IGrab-—- 46.8 32,6 158-...__-.... 3.340 4.14 88.0 74. 7 /Strip 46.45 30,90 6.33 14.67 I Grab....- 66.30 37.90 6.67 18.00 /Strip 159...... 3.35 3.9 87.0 73. 7 30.0 16.3 IGrab—.- 32.8 21.2 /Strip....- 160...... -,-. 3.35 2.4 86.4 73.2 49.0 31.3 \Grab 54.0 35.8 161. „.---.._. 3.362 5.00 86.6 74.3 /Strip..... 48.95 28.50 6.50 14.83 VQrab..... 56.30 35.90 17.50 /Strip—.. 162_.-. —_._. 3.375 3.06 85.6 75.1 40,80 2730 6.83 14. 00 \Grab-—. 51.15 36.80 6.67 16.83 163-..-.--... 3.40 4.2 86.6 72.6 /Strip 49.8 36.0 \Grab— 53.5 43.8 164-...... 3.4 3.0 87.5 79.0 }sirip 42.2 42.8 23.4 25.0 165...... 3.4 .6 88.0 77.0 42.8 65.6 27 2 36.7 /„do—..- 166-.... 3.401 4.79 70.4 44.90 26. 75 6,00 13.17 iGrab-— 51.20 .32.35 6.67 15.00 167...... — 3.416 1.03 76.3 /Strip— 43.15 30.00 6.60 14.67 VQrab—.. 64.75 41.30 700 18.50 168...... 3.42 85.9 73.9 /Strip..— 50.6 31,8 \Grab.—- 55.7 39.3 169. _._..-_— 3.43 86.0 75.9 _do„.... 47.8 36.3 170„...... 3.43 73.9 60.0 33.8 171-.-....—_ 3.48 5.1 88.4 72.8 /Strip..... 44.6 26.7 I Grab.-.. _ 48.0 32.6 172...... 3.5 3.3 87.6 77 5 39.2 36-0 23.8 21.6 173——— 3.7 2.3 91.0 83.0 43.0 31.5 29.0 35.5 174...... 3.7 3.1 90.0 78.0 Strip.. 47.4 35.2 31.2 28.8 176*.. ._ 3.7 90 78 51.6 36.9 11.1 18.4 176*..——.. 3.7 90 76 47.0 35,4 12.3 17 9 177*... — — 3.8 90 79 40.7 26.3 9.3 18.5

1 Types denoted by sum of warp and filling yams. 2 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance iu service (table 37, figure 5).

118 TABLE 64.—Properties of percale: Cotton^ plain weave, approximately 36 inehes wide—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yarn

Shrinkage in laundering Number Twist (direction, turns per inch) Type > and item number Eeference number Ply Tempera- tare Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

Type 160—Con. ^ F. Pet. PcL No. No. 153.- 4.3 5.6 27.3 33.9 23.8Z 25. 6Z ) 154 5.8 3.7 27.2 36.1 25,3Z 25. 3Z Uö9 {imi). 155 5.8 2.3 27.2 31.4 23,9S 27. 5S 156 . 3.81 1.73 Typp-- 27.8 33.0 Single 17. 6Z 24. OZ kñ (1940). r 100 3.0 4.3 157 . - m (1942). I 212 4.0 2.9 ] "" 168 4.87 .35 Typp 26.3 34.6 Single. _ _ 22.3Z 24. 5Z J^ñ (1940). 159 100 3.1 2.5 p (1942). 160 100 3.5 3.9

161 __ 4.51 3.12 Typp 25.1 35.7 Single 20.4Z 26. OZ ] U& (1940). 162 3.47 1.73 -.--.do—_ 25.5 36.0 do... 20. 7Z 25.9Z 163 100 4.3 3.1 ¿^^(1942). 164 - - _ . - - 5.3 2.2 26.4 36.8 22.2Z 28. OZ 165_.. 7.1 3.6 26.7 34.3 27. OZ 27.9Z }iOÔ (1951). 166 , ^ 4.51 1.73 Typp 25.1 36.2 Single 18.8Z 23. 7Z W (1940). 167 -.- 5.55 1.73 do 26.0 35.2 do _ -_ 20.2Z 26. 7Z / 100 3.9 168 --- 3.4 ] 1 212 5.0 2.9 / 169 f 100 4.7 3.2 1 212 5.4 2.3 J ^2 (1942). 170 . 212 4.6 2.6 171 f 100 3.5 5.1 } I 212 3.6 2.3 J 172- 2.6 4.0 26.9 34.0 25.2Z 24.9Z 173 1.4 .7 27.7 35.2 22.9Z 26. 5Z \m (1951). 174 _ 5.9 6.3 23.7 33.3 28.3Z 28.3Z 175* 28.7 35.4 26.0 22.6 176*-^ 28.9 35.7 24.8 22.6 \iöl^ (1951). 177* 28.6 35.9 25.8 22.5

119 TABLE 65.—Properties of popíin and shantung: Plain weave

Fabric

Yams per inch Breaking strength Bursting strength Fabric, fiber and item number Thick- Weight per Finish square yard ness Warp Filling Warp FiUing Method Dry Wet Dry Wet Dry Wet

Cotton: Oz, PcL In, No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb, Lb, 1 3.16 116.0 66.7 Strip.. 69.2 19.4 76.7 20.4 3.23 103.5 41.8 60.4 25.6 3.40 102.6 42.4 Grab- 68.8 31.6 102. 7 41.4 65.0 30.0 /Strip-.. 66.5 28.6 3.40 6.9 103.2 \Grab_.. 73.2 31.4 /Strip... 67.2 31.4 3.45 2.9 104.2 43.3 lOrab... 75.6 34.6 4.081 0.032 40 48 Strip-. - 89.62 37.37 4.23 80.0 48.3 do.. 109.6 43.7 4.23 ,1 .013 107,0 46.6 97,3 39.2 10.... 4.51 1.2 .013 141.2 49.5 91.0 79.4 11-... 4.53 1.2 114.9 3 I-Grab- 85.9 62.7 103 12.... 4.58 1.8 .014 109.0 49.2 92.5 36.9 13... 4.62 2.6 .014 142.5 48.8 71.4 46.5 /Strip— 93.40 46.20 87.60 14*2.. 4.63 .0119 108.9 60.1 \ Grab- 116.90 48.10 15.... 6.2 106 62 Strip... 122.6 92.7 16.-.. 6.8 116 48 do- 117,9 91.6

Silk and wool: 17 4.58 .0121 228.0 43.6 Grab- 51 >8% of 54 62% of dry. dry. Viscose: 18 3.9 9.0 120 77 Strip.. 36.8 60.4

Viscose and acetate : 19.. 3.3 70.2 38.6 39.8 13.8 16.0 44.0 ^.. 4.2 72.2 41.0 35.4 13.8 42.8 23.6 113.2 60.2 21.. 4.4 122 53 ^Strip- 37.0 35.5 22.. 4.5 70.0 45.6 42.6 19.6 56.8 24.8 154.4 67.6 4.9 121 55 43.49 23.06

SHANTUNG Cotton; 53.7 22.9 100.2 57.7 /Strip-. 24 3.10 3.0 \Grab— 61.4 23.8 /Strip..- 45.4 20.2 102.3 66.1 25- 3.13 \G^ab-. 52.8 21.8 /Strip... 46.9 33.1 95.8 41,0 26.. 3.30 1.3 iGrab... 47.6 316 65.2 19.0 102.1 42.7 / Strip... 27-. 3.42 \Grab.- 72.8 20.4 28- 3.445 .027 127 66 Strip.- 57.50 18.50 47.1 21.2 103.0 42.0 /._-.do.. 29- 3.63 6.0 \Grab..- 61.2 22.2 30- 3.67 2.2 117.7 55.4 do. 68.8 23.4 73.2 31.3 111.3 47.5 /Strip... 31-. 4.43 10.4 \Grab... 35.6 Wild Silk: 32-.._.. 6.79 a 32.6 .0135 75.8 42.9 Grab- 103 67% of 172 68% of *3.1 dry. dry. 33.. 7.69 ,0167 77 41 Strip- 60 130 101 Viscose: 34..... 3.3 1.8 .0143 68.3 38.9 (bone dry). 36.. 4.0 3.6 .0191 44.4 43.0 (bone dry). 4.0 3.3 .0190 45.3 42.1 (bone dry).

1 Plus indicates stretch. * Water soluble sizing. 2 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (table 31). s Laundered 5 times. 3 Ash.

120 TABLE 65.—Properties of poplin and shantung: Plain iveam—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yarn Fiber length Twist (turns per Shrinkage in Number Ply laundering inch, direction) Fabric, fiber, and Reference item number number

Warp Filling Warp Füling System Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

POPLIN

Cotton; Pet. PcL In. In. No. No. 1 3.9 2.4 2 2.6 2.8 3 7.9 .6 62 (1943). 4 2.7 .1 5 5.6 1.8 6 4.3 2.2 7 Typp 22.60 30.54 24Z 20S 38 (1938). g 62 (1943). 9 ,7 1.8 Two Two - leo (1944). 10 Z9 1.1 Single- Single 11 76 (1945). 12 1+.3 Two Two ^69 (1944), 13 1.7 Single- Single ^:l 15.50 iö5(1951). 14*2 . 24.60 23.80 Two —do 9.45 (ply) (ply) 15 Typp 19.5 13.0 jöe (1944), 16 do 17.3 14.3

Sillr and wool: 17 Contin- 1.2 do—.. 128. 688 7.316 Single-. Three 0 33S fj? (1933), uous. 13S Viscose: 18 ...do Single 96 (1950) Viscose and acetate: 19 5.4 4.8 1,5 1.5 24.3 13.5 18.7Z 15. 6Z }W9 (1951). 20 8.8 +.9 1,5 1,4 24.4 12.6 20.2Z 13.7Z 21 Single.-. Single 95 (1950). 22 1.4. 1.8 23.9 10.9 20. IZ 13. OZ W9 (1951). 23 Single- Single 88 (1949).

SHANTUNG Cotton: 24 5.9 2.1

25 6.2 1.8 m (1943). 26 .7 2.2

27 5.4 1.9 28 . Typp 35.63 34.13 24S 25Z 38 (1938). 29 6.0 3.5 30 5.6 .4 ■6B (1943), 31 11.6 2.4 Wild silk: 32 Contin- Contin- Typp 27.997 5.663 0 0 IB (1933). uous. uous. (done dry) 33 7 0 do .....do-... do—. 26.90 3.84 0 0 U (1940). Viscose: 34 s 10.0 +.8 Spun Spun do.... 30.8 12.8 14.9Z 15.6Z 35 «9,8 6.6 do do—-. do 14,0 12.2 15.2Z 17.8Z Ï67,68 (1944). 36 s 10.2 4.5 do do -. ... do...- 13.7 12.3 18. OZ 20.3Z

121 TABLE 66.—Properties oj twill: Gotton and part-cotton

Fabric

Yarns per inch Breaking strength Elongation Fiber, item number and fabric name Weiglit per Type of Thick- square twiU Finish Width ness yard Warp Filling Warp Filling Method - Warp Filling Dry Wet Dry Wet

COTTON

Cottonade: 02. Pet. In. In. No, No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. - Pet. Pet. 1 ._ 9.86 2/1- - 6.4 28.5 0.0268 61.4 31,2 Grab...... 141 121% of 80 109% of 17 7 dry. dry. Denim: 2._...... 6.0 1/2 un- 5.3 62,0 56.0 Strip...... 68.6 99.8 42.0 61.6 e V e n (filling efíect): a...-_.-_...... 6.26 10.4 .026 64.8 47.7 Qrab 98. 0 51. 2 4.... 7.4 2/1 9.2 ""36Ïi' 68 42 Strip.....- 91.2 33.8 19.6 8.9 5...... 8.67 13.9 65.5 42:9 Í158, S 61.5 6 ... 8.92 2/1. 3.7 29.0 .0241 67.0 40.0 161 104% of 53 142% of 22 11 dry. dry. 7...._ _.... 9.43 11.6 69.3 44.7 191.0 81.9 8...... 9.47 11.5 65.4 47. Ö 150.1 '" " 68.6 9 9.50 8.6 65.7 43.0 178.3 73.1 10.....-__.-- . 9.57 13.1 66.4 45.0 178.0 70,2 11_...... 9.63 11.8 68.1 44.8 172.1 93,1 12„...... 9.67 13.4 67.6 47,8 175.3 70.7 13...... -.._...._-. 10.20 11.0 69.4 48.8 'Grab- 169.1 84.5 14...._.-.._ 10.20 12.3 70.0 48.6 ■ 174.4 81.9 16... 10.47 12.0 67.8 48.1 172.4 92.3 16 „._.. 10.57 12.5 68.5 48.2 172.1 87,1 17 _...... 10.60 8.3 65.4 50.8 166.6 113.1 18-...... 10.63 13.7 70.0 49.3 183.1 91.9 19.. . ._. iO.97 13.0 69.7 49.9 159.2 104.3 20...... 11.33 10.4 70.2 47.6 178.1 118. 2 Drill: 21...... 4.67 2/1 left 36.8 . 0081 99. a 60.0 95 119% oí 46 128% of 8 g dry dry 22....._-...-..... 4. 743 1. 63 35.50 .030 77 41 Strip 65.25 42.62 23. 5.28 2/1...... 0124 104.9 60.9 ...do.—... 81.7 31.8 10,0 14.0

24 7.20 2/lleft.._. 4. 5 30.8 .0197 77.0 62.5 Grab 117 113% of 75 131% of 22 16 dry. dry, Qalatea: 25 - . 6.49 4/1- 4.4 28.5 .0124 120.0 62.0 ...do—_.- 66 141% of 43 144% of 12 15 dry. dry. Orenfe]] cloth: 26...... _._ 4.96 2/2. ... .0106 192.0 92.4 Strip 113.1 42.8 12,3 6.5 27....„._„.-... . 4.97 2/2 left-.. .6 .0105 96.0 100.0 122 137% of 56 125% of 22 16 dry. dry. Herringbone: 28.....-_...... _.. 9.10 1.6 .024 69.8 47,2 Grab-—- 136.7 107.0 Jean: 29..-. 5.17 9.1 .014 102.8 62.3 88.8 49.0 _ Strip 79.45 46.36 30*2._,...... 5.49 .01415 101.1 62.5 \ Grab...... 83.85 54,70 J - 31...... 6.52 11.9 .015 99.0 63, 5 ■ 87.2 49.7 Khaki: 32...... 4.93 2/1...... 5.2 35.7 .0116 106.0 60.0 ..do_,...- 79 124% of 47 134%o of 7 7 Twill: dry. dry 33.._...... ,...... 6.63 9.4 102.6 64.2 98.2 60.5 34...... _.„ 8.6 2/1 — 3.6 49 104 60 Strip...._. 93.6 95.6 10.7 15,0 Whipcord; 35.... 9.66 9.5 .033 62.3 36.3 164.5 75.0 36...... _.„_..:... 10.98 3.6 .047 106,2 48.8 145,7 84,9 37 _._....._... 11.42 7.2 .039 63.0 44.0 149,2 116.0 COTTON AND LINEN Grab—...

Curved twill: 38... 7.19 Curved 50.5 ,0215 37.0 32.0 .99 135% of 54 96%, of 50 33 dry. dry. COTTON AND VISCOSE Taekletwill: 39.._ 5.6 f -_.- 162 76 40 _....„..... 6.2 ■2/1. .. ].._... 162 68 41 ..... 6.7 1 164 70 COTTON, ACETATE, -i AND VISCOSE Novelty twill: 4 42...... 10,1 3/1...... 1.4 iVA 100 47 Strip-..-. 44,0 112,8 17.4 24 7

Î Plus indicates stretch. 3 W Indicates warp; F, filling. 2 Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (table 31). 4 Warp, cotton 10.8 percent, acetate 19,8 percent; fillüig, viscose 68.0 percent

122 TABLE 66.—Properties oj twill: Cotton and part-cotton—^^Continued

Fabric—Continued Yarn

Bursting Shrinkage in Fiber length Twist (turns strength laundering Number per inch, direc- Fiber, item number, tion) Reference and fabric name number Ply

Dry Wet Warp Filling Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp Filling

COTTON Cottonade; Lb. Lb. Pet. Pet. In, In. No. No. 1 ___ ._ 8.8 3.1 0.6 0.6 Typp-- 6.216 5.627 Single- 25Z 14Z 12 (1933). Denim: 2 121.8 155.0 3.9 .6 1.1 11.3 12.8 18.2S 109 (1951),

3 .6 1.3 Single 69 (1944). 4 _ 5.0 2.5 do 95 (1950). 5 _ 104 75 (1945). 6 3.6 .7 ,9 .9 Typp - 5.858 11. 592 Single - 15Z lOZ W (1933). 7. 151 8 -._ 85 9 93 IQ 11 155 12 104 13 - .- 107 14 15 16- 108 17 _.- 118 18 114 19 _._ 165 20 143 Drill: 21. - 3.5 .7 .9 1.0 Typp- 17.353 21.017 Single 17Z 23Z 12 (1933). 22_ .. do 18.70 22.50 20S 17S S8 (1938). 23 7 (1930), 8 (1931). 24- 3.8 2.7 .9 .9 Typp 11.222 15.322 Single- 18Z 14Z Galatea: '12 (1933). 25- - - 2.8 Í+.5 1.0 1.0 do- 21.588 19.622 do—- 25Z 21Z Grenfell cloth: 26 - - Two 7 (1930). 27 . -- _ 3.2 +.9 1.3 1.2 Typp 33. 432 34.801 do 15S 15S i^(1933). lOZ lOZ Herringbone: 28 1.7 .6 1 Jean: \69 (1944). 29 _ .2 1.8 30*2 _ 97.80 Cotton - 21.04 22.30 22.92Z 22.58Z i05(1951). 31 1.2 .4 69 (1944). Khakir 32.. - - 1.6 .5 .9 1.0 Typp 20.622 18.060 Single 17Z 15Z íá (1933). Twill: 33 98 75 (1945). 34 3.0 3.0 95 (1950). Whipcord: 35 17.2 1.8 36 13.3 5.7 ■69 (1944). 37 .. - -, 1.7 1.5 Two -- COTTON AND LINEN Curved twill: 38 - 3.7 1.9 1.0 6.5 Typp- 4.978 6.740 W3 four, F 9S 6Z IB (1933). single. 13Z COTTON AND VISCOSE Tackletwill 39 Single 40._ W single, F two. Ii02 (1960). 41 do COTTON, ACETATE, AND VISCOSE: Novelty twiil* 42 95 (1950).

123 TABLE 67.—Properties of serge: Wool 2¡2 twill

Fabric

Yarns per Bursting inch Brealiing strength Elongation strength

Item mimber Weight Warp Filling per Widtb Thick- square ness yard Warp Filling Dry Wet Warp Filling Method (dry) (dry) Dry Wet Dry Wet

Oz. In. In. No. No. Lb. Lb. Lb. Lb. Pa. PÚ. Lb. Lb, 1 __ _. _ /Strip 21.0 14.5 11.13 11.13 3.37 42.86 0- 0146 59.8 48.9 I Grab 24.5 17.1 13.33 14.17 } 69.4 /Strip..—. 30.8 17.1 24.13 25.00 2 .. ___ 3.74 40.27 .0114 92.0 71.5 ' Grab 45.3 23.1 18.33 15.83 j 128.9 89.8 /Strip 31.8 19.0 15.40 15.87 3 _ 3.81 64.05 .0118 92.7 71.4 Grab 45.4 26.7 25.83 18.33 1 91.9 /Strip 24.3 26.9 12.00 11.93 4 3.98 55.50 .0129 77.2 65.8 iGrab...... 33.9 25.3 22.50 12.50 } 85.8 /Strip 39.8 26.3 12.87 21.27 6.03 .0153 77.9 60.9 Grab 54.8 36.6 27.50 27.50 } 110.0 61 5.07 56.0 .0150 54.0 37.0 ...do- 56 77% 25 17 11 of dry of dry 7 5.6 74.8 67.0 / 61.6 30.8 60.8 26.8 142.4 79.4 8 5.6 74.6 70.0 }strip \ 63.6 33,6 53.2 25.0 168.3 78.2 /-do. 50.9 32.6 9.53 13.27 5.73 56.22 .0181 65.5 64.1 iGrab 87.2 55.0 30.83 29.17 } 82.7

10_.. __ 6.1 64.6 51.6 11* ^ .. 7.77 58 .0240 66.30 56.00 / 49. 25 43.15 29.34 27.33 106. 50 12* 8.72 58 .0272 56.70 54.80 57.75 55.05 32.67 35.33 130.60 13... ,.. 8.9 52.0 58.0 Strip 63.4 39.8 49.0 32.0 159.6 73.2 14 _ _. 9.3 64.0 64.0 51.0 30.0 36.5 28.0 140.2 73.4 IS* 9.94 58 .03005 57.90 55.20 I 65.80 59.60 34.33 34.67 140.80

1 Finish, 1.4 percent. 3 Plus indicates stretch. 3 W indicates warp; F, filling. * Asterisk indicates additional data on performance in service (tables 40,41).

124 TABLE 67.—Properties oj serqe: Wool 2¡2 twill—Continued

Fabric—Continued Yam Fiber length Twist (turns per Shrinkage in Number incb, direction) Item Reference number Laundering Cleaning number Ply Dry Wet Warp Filling System Warp Filling Warp FiUing Warp Filling Warp Filling Warp Filling

Pet. Pet Pet. Pet, Pet. Pet. In. In, No. No. 1 4.00 1.22 ^32.0 31.0 i 12.2S 11.2Z 2 4.88 7.67 41.0 45.0 11.7Z 11. IZ 3 3.22 4.00 ■Hanks/ib- 42.0 48.0 Single. 12.3Z 11. OZ 25 (1935). 4 4.4a 4.89 42.0 33.0 13.4Z 12.3Z 5 _ 3.67 1.89 28.0 32.0 . 12. IZ 10.3Z 61 3.3 5.1 Typp 9.08 16.338 W2 two, F IOS 13Z m (1933). single. 6Z 7_.. .„. 9.0 1.3 1.1 1.0 9.1 5.7 1.3 1.2 17.1 17.6 20.3Z 17,9Z 8- 2.3 3+1.1 ,2 2.8 4.7 5.1 1.8 1.8 17.1 16.8 18. IS 17, OS "^109 (1951). 9 5.56 3.44 Hanks/lb- 20.0 29.0 W two, F 9.5Z 10. OZ U (1935). single. single 10. 4S 10- 2.5 1.8 11.6 10.6 16?3Z 17,6Z 109 (1951). 11*< 6.22 1.38 1.88 1.96 Worsted... 18.58 15.76 W two, F 8.84 10,16 single. IsO, 81 (1947). 12* 5.56 .67 2.21 2.36 -.do- 14.40 12.83 7.36 9.14 13 .4 .7 1.1 1.8 2.8 3.3 8.8 9.0 10. 6S 10.7S 1 13.3Z 14.5Z \l09 (1951). 14„ _. 3.1 .3 1.9 +1.3 3.1 2.4 15* 5.56 1.17 1.86 2.42 Worsted-_. 12.36 12.25 W two, F 6.35 8.53 80, 81 (1947). single.

125 INDEX TO FABRICS

Page Reference Batiste_-___.__-._--..---. — - 22,84-85- ..-_-.__-_-- 12,67. Blanketing.. _- — ---__-. 2-6, 42-53. — _._____ — _- 2, 7, 8> 12, 22, 24, 28, 31, 33, 41,46, 56, 70, 112. Bobbinet (curtaining)— _- 6, 60-61-_. — ______64. Broadcloth------2, 22-24, 34, 35, 86-91------1, 12, 13, 20, 26, 34, 38, 43, 46, 50, 66, 84, 92, 105, 109. Brocade (upholstery)--- _._ 18-19, 76-77_. —______39,63. Brocatelle-- -._.- — --..- 20__--_. _____-__-- 113. Cambric-- -__- —-22,84-85 _ — -_---— 12, 67> Chambray_- --_- 24-26, 34, 92-93 —-- — _--_-- 16, 20, 57, 58, 67, 75, 79, 82, 109. Chintz----._-__--_-__- —-- 4,62-63; .4,12,95. Corduroy __-_ — _- — ___. 22, 25-28, 94-^95——_ — --_- 46, 49, 85, 95, 97, 98, 99, 111. Cottonade—-- — -_-- —-- 35,122-123 _._.-_.-- 12. _ ^ _ Covert - __ — _--_--__— 25-26, 28-29, 34, 96 7, 8, 12, 58, 75, 109. Cretonne—- -— 4, 21, 62-63 - — — — _- 12, 109, 113. Damask (table)--- -_.-_- 6, 8-10, 64-65-—------5,12,15,35,71. Damask (upholstering) —— — ___- 18-20, 76-77—---- — —-- — ---.^ 39. Denim .- .- 22, 35, 122-123------12, 69, 72, 75, 95, 109. Dimity—1- -_--— 29, 97—---.- —------12, 62, 87, 109. Dobby---- — -— 21- --_ _- 113. Dottedswiss—- —--- — _-. 29, 98-99-.--_-_-- —----- 12,30,62,109. Drill - _ — -_-_- — - 35, 122-123- — —_ — -- -_- 7,8,9,12,38. Duck—- - . 21-- _-— 113. Filet (curtaining) ------__-_ 60-61 —_ __- — _- — - 64. Flannel- Canton..------30-31,102 ____- - 12,17. Outing--- - - 30-31,102-103—- - 12,29,48,109. Wool _ _- — _----— 29,30,100-101 _---- 12,25,47,65,74,82,88,94,109. Flannelette.-.---- .. 30, 102—_-- — _ —------109. Frieze (upholstering)- —_- — 18, 19, 21, 76-79____ —__---- —_ 12,39,113. Gabardine - — -— Sl-SS, 104-107— — — — 12, 25, 51, 55, 61, 69, 102, 109. Galatea.- —- ———- 35, 122-123—— -- — .-— 12. Gauze .------6,60-61 _- — __--_-_- 12,88,95,103. Gingha;m -- - — 31, 10'8-109—. —-_ ---_ 10, 12, 14, 20, 62, 82, 87, 95, 109. Grenfell cloth.- —---_---— 35, 122-123 —_.--_ —--_- 7, 12. Herringbone twill-_ -- —-_ 35, 122-123 --.- _ 69. Jean _ --- -- 34-35, 23-24, 122-123- 11, 69, 105. Khaki. — . ._ — -_.-- 35,122-123- _-. 12. Lawn .-.-. --.._--___ 31-32, 110-111 —_---_------12,62,109. Longcloth--_ — _-_ — — 22, 84-85—.--- — -- 27. Madras (curtaining) 6i>-61 —..--: 12. Marquisette (curtaining)-_-.___ _ 4, 6-8, 54-57— — 12, 64, 76, 88, 95, 103, 109. Matelasse.--- — - — --. -— 20 . 113. Muslin (seß sheeting). .^ «^ «^ ... Nainsook— — — ... -— 22, 84-85 ___ — _-— 12, 20, 27, 34. Ninon (curtaining)-- — 4, 6, 60-61 —-.--__ 12, 64, 88, 95, 103. Novelty (upholstery) —- — — - 20,21,78-81 ..--- __-- 39. Organdie _- — ----- 32, 110-111 —- — _-_------12, 66, 109. Percale " . -.-- 2, 22, 32-34, 112-119- — — --- 38, 45, 52, 67, 73, 79, 82, 83, 88, 89, 104, 109. Poplin """"-"------23, 26, 34-35, 120-121.--. 12, 38, 62, 66, 69, 75, 88, 95, 105, 109. Rib weave (upholstering) —- — — - 18-19,80-83——---- — — 39. Scrim (curtaining)..... -- 4, 6, 60-01 —- — --._---_-- 64, 88,95. ^ Serge ^V _____.. 35-36, 124-125— — - 12, 25, 80, 81, 96, 109. Sháitm¿------..-.- —- 34-35, 120-121—.--_. —_-- 12, 38, 44, 62, 67, 68. Sheer (curtaining)------— ----- 7, 60-61------.__----_ — 94,103. Sheeting — — — - 1-2, 9-13, 15-18, 32, 66-69--.- 2, 3, 5, 6, 12, 18, 19, 21, 27, 32, 36, 42, 46, 54, ^^ y 59,60,77,86,91,106,110,115. Tackletwill. „. — -- — —122-123—- -_--. — _---__- 102. Tapestry (upholstering)------20, 82-83— —-_. 12, 63, 113. Theatrical gauze (curtaining)----. 6,60-61 ______- — --- — --- 12,88,95,103.^ Toweling (dish). —— — ---- 13, 15-18, 70-73...----,-_-_-- 12, 53, 78, 90, 100, 107, 108, 114. Towehni (turkish) --- 2, 17-19, 74-75——-_--- 12, 23, 37, 40, 46, 101, 109. Twill „\-_._-_ —------22, 26, 35, 122-123--_---_— 12, 75, 95, 102. Velour-_.__ — --_ —------21---- __ — ----___ — - — --_ 113. Velvet (upholstering)- --. 21,82-83 _.- —--__ 12,39, 113. Voile (curtaining)------4, 6, 58-59—__-- — ---- 12,14, 64, 95, 103. Whipcord...-..------35,122-123.--.------— -. 69.

126 U. S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: I9B6