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Gulangyu, En Xiamen, Punto De Encuentro Entre Las Culturas De Occidente Y China Diciembre 2014-Julio 2015

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Gulangyu, En Xiamen, Punto De Encuentro Entre Las Culturas De Occidente Y China Diciembre 2014-Julio 2015 Gulangyu, en Xiamen, punto de encuentro entre las culturas de Occidente y China Diciembre 2014-Julio 2015 ÀNGEL LÁZARO La pequeña isla de Gulangyu, en Xiamen (Fujian), ha adquirido una gran relevancia entre los destinos turísticos chinos aprovechando su extraordinario legado histórico y cultural, con el formidable héroe transnacional Koxinga en posición privilegiada; un ambiente urbano único de mansiones, iglesias y edificios antiguos, completamente 1 peatonal; y el agradable entorno natural de miradores, playas y jardines caracterizado por su gran biodiversidad. Gulangyu, junto con otras 40 concesiones internacionales en China, logró ser el primer y privilegiado punto de encuentro entre la modernidad occidental y el tradicionalismo de la dinastía "qing", hasta entonces herméticamente cerrada por su concepto de autosuficiente y perfecto "reino del centro" (Zhong Guo, 中国). Este encuentro cultural, el primero generalizado tras episódicas experiencias previas (los comerciantes de las Rutas de la Seda y del Té, la navegación temporal y limitada en Cantón, la colonia de Macao, los jesuitas en los siglos XVI y XVIII...) estuvo paradójicamente asentado, por un lado, en la cooperación educativa, médica y científica, y, por el otro, en los abusos típicos del período colonial (1842-1949). Imágenes históricas de la isla de Gulangyu, principios del siglo XX; abajo, a la izquierda, en el lado izquierdo de la foto, delante de la explanada, edificio de la sociedad masónica. 2 Así, la imposición del comercio del opio (con graves perjuicios para la salud pública), el tráfico de personas (en el servicio doméstico o el trabajo de porteador), el saqueo del patrimonio cultural y el racismo de una parte de la comunidad internacional trataba de ser compensado por el altruismo de la otra parte, mediante escuelas, hospitales, conservatorios de música, ferrocarriles o diccionarios. Este modelo de cooperación, basado en el respeto cultural, no oculta (ni debe ocultar) el daño causado por el colonialismo, pero conviene reconocer su importancia en la modernización tecnológica, educativa y científica del país, por parte de pioneros de ambas comunidades. Gulangyu es hoy un emblema de este modelo, y su promoción puede ayudar a reducir el resentimiento y la desconfianza que todavía permanecen en parte del inconsciente colectivo chino De arriba a abajo, arquitectura de las antiguas concesiones de Qingdao (dos fotos superiores), Shanghai (foto central izquierda), Tianjin (foto central derecha y foto inferior derecha) y Beijing (fotos inferiores izquierda y central) 3 Gulangyu, que tiene otros atractivos para el visitante (clima subtropical, jardines, calles peatonales, ambiente relajado...) , sigue la tendencia de rehabilitar y convertir en patrimonio cultural chino la mejor parte de las antiguas concesiones internacionales, conocidas también como "puertos del tratado" ("Treaty Ports"), objeto de cesión mediante los llamados "tratados desiguales" (1842-1900). Esta tendencia puede observarse en las concesiones y antiguas colonias mejor conservadas de China, entre las que pueden citarse Macao (única calificada hasta ahora como patrimonio de la humanidad por la Unesco), la isla de Shamian, en Guangzhou; la concesión francesa y el "Bund" de Shanghai; la calle Jiefang Beilu y el barrio de Wudadao, en Tianjin; el barrio de Badaguan, en Qingdao; el barrio de las legaciones, en Beijing, y algunas calles o edificios aislados de Hong Kong, Dalian o Harbin, entre otras ciudades (ver post en este mismo blog). La isla de Gulangyu, una de las dos atracciones de Fujian, junto con Wuyishan, con la máxima calificación del turismo chino (5 A), solicitó en 2013 en la UNESCO su reconocimiento como Patrimonio Cultural de la Humanidad, todavía pendiente (http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5807/). Antigua concesión rusa en Ha'erbin, septiembre 2015 4 Mirador y estatua conmemorativa de Koxinga, isla de Gulangyu, julio 2015. Koxinga, el gran héroe chino y taiwanés (y japonés....) Mucho antes de convertirse en colonia comercial, Gulangyu fue base de operaciones del general Zheng Chenggong (郑成功, "Zheng", por su apellido familiar, y "Chengong", cuyo significado es "éxito"). Este general recibió su nombre definitivo directamente del regente "ming", por lo que también fue llamado Koxinga ("Guo xing ye", 国姓爷,"señor del apodo imperial"). Koxinga fue uno de los mayores y más extraordinarios héroes militares de la historia china (y taiwanesa), fundamentalmente por la conquista de Taiwán en 1661, por lo 5 que su colosal estatua de granito de 16 metros de altura, los restos de su Fuerte en el mirador de Sunlight Rock y su interesante Memorial ocupan un lugar central entre las atracciones de la isla. La mastodóntica y emblemática estatua, situada en el área escénica del Parque de la Luna Brillante, iluminada de noche y visible desde la ciudad y desde el mar, pesa casi 1400 toneladas y está hecha de 625 piezas de granito blanco traído desde Quanzhou. Según la placa conmemorativa, la estatua, construida en 1932, puede resistir tifones y terremotos de magnitud 8. El Memorial de Koxinga, situado en una gran mansión de estilo mixto (occidental, con alerones y ornamentos propios del estilo "minnan") con un gran jardín, nos ilustra sobre las hazañas del admirado líder militar "ming", en cuyos detalles biográficos merece la pena detenerse. Memorial de Koxinga y restos de su fuerte, isla de Gulangyu, diciembre 2014. 6 Zheng Chenggong (1624-1662), hijo de un comerciante y pirata chino, luego ennoblecido, y de una mujer noble japonesa del clan Tagawa, nació en Japón, donde también le reivindican como héroe-mito, razón por la que fue utilizado propagandísticamente por los japoneses durante la ocupación de Taiwán, entre 1895 y 1945. Koxinga recibió una esmerada formación académica y militar en China. Su familia, que controlaba la provincia de Fujian, se mantuvo leal a la dinastía Ming, de origen "han", y a sus regentes, tras la caída de Beijing (1644) en poder de los Manchúes o Qing, procedentes de Manchuria, entonces territorio extranjero. Restos de Fort Zeeland y, en el centro y abajo, a la derecha, Templo de Confucio, Tainan, fundado por Koxinga, Taiwán, marzo 2015 7 Koxinga formó una enorme flora de centenares de "juncos" de combate, para lo que tuvo que deforestar la mayor de las islas Kinmen (entonces casi deshabitada) y entrenó un ejército fujianés de 25.000 hombres con el que afrontó la superior potencia de fuego holandesa y, contra todo pronóstico, y con la alianza de las tribus locales, les derrotó, rindiendo la fortaleza principal de Fort Zeeland (en Anping, la actual Tainan). Por lo visto, el esfuerzo le dejó literalmente exhausto, por lo que murió pocos meses después (1662), lo que impidió su intento, documentado, de desalojar a los españoles de las islas Filipinas. No obstante, sus hijos mantuvieron el control de la isla de Taiwán durante 20 años, antes de entregarla a los gobernantes "qing" e iniciaron un proceso de colonización humana e introducción del modelo cultural "han" (el Templo de Confucio de Tainan, el más antiguo de Taiwán, con funciones de Academia de funcionarios, data de esa época), con una gran mayoría de emigrantes de Fujian (de las etnias "han" y "hakka"), Esta colonización no sólo explica la pertenencia de Taiwán al área cultural china, sino también las especiales características étnico-culturales de la misma. La mayoría de los colonizadores eran "han" y "hakka" procedentes del sur de Fujian, orgullosos de su identidad "minnan" No obstante, el padre, tras recibir una suculenta oferta (Fujian más Guangdong), rindió la capital de Fujian, Fuzhou, al ejército "qing" (1646), en contra del criterio de su esposa, que un año más tarde se suicidó, y con la oposición de su hijo Koxinga, que rechazó seguirle (contrariando el principio confuciano de piedad filial) y decidió ocultarse en la actual isla de Xiamen (Amoy o "e-moi", en el dialecto local, hokkien- minnan-fujianés, es decir, "puerta baja" ). Su habilidad militar le permitió resistir varios ataques "qing" de gran envergadura, destruir buena parte de su flota en las vecinas islas Kinmen, y mantener el territorio bajo soberanía formal del regente Ming (su último emperador, Yongli). La fortaleza de su posición y la fidelidad de sus hombres le permitió organizar una de las grandes hazañas militares de la historia china, la conquista y posterior colonización "han" de Taiwán (1661). Este territorio era clave en las rutas comerciales de la época y se encontraba, por entonces, bajo control holandés, tras dos breves intentos de dominio español y portugués (los portugueses le dieron el nombre de "Formosa", por el que fue conocida durante mucho tiempo). 8 Esta hazaña fue fruto de una necesidad estratégica y no de una megalomanía de poder de la que, aparentemente, Koxinga carecía. Los holandeses habían tratado de conquistar las islas Kinmen, amenazando su posición, por lo que, con su visión de gran estratega, entendió que debía desalojarles de su base en Taiwán para asegurar su situación. Pioneros de las artes, la educación, la medicina y los derechos humanos, formados en las escuelas occidentales de Gulangyu; de izquierda a derecha, la pianista y directora de orquesta, Zheng Xiaoying; el escritor Li Yuntang; la doctora Lin Qiaozhi y la profesora y activista de los derechos de la mujer, Qiu Jin. Héroes de la cultura, la medicina y la educación modernas Mediante el Tratado de Nanjing (1842), tras la primera guerra del opio, los británicos, además de imponer el comercio del opio (con las trágicas consecuencias sociales ya conocidas), obtuvieron la cesión permanente de la isla de Hong Kong (a la que renunciaron en 1997) y concesiones portuarias en Cantón, Shanghai, Ningbo (Zhejiang), Fuzhou (Fujian) y Xiamen-Amoy. 9 Amoy, y los cercanos puertos de Zhangzhou y Quanzhou (la mítica Zaytun de Marco Polo) formaban desde la Antigüedad una excelente fondeadero y refugio para todo tipo de naves (como ya sabía el héroe local Koxinga, ya citado), y habían sido tradicionalmente una de las puertas comerciales de salida del té de las montañas de Fujian y de la excelente porcelana del norte de Jiangxi (Jingdezheng), entre otras mercancías.
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